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Full text of "Switzerland: and the adjacent portions of Italy, Savoy, and Tyrol : handbook for travellers"

BAEDEKER'S GUIDE BOOKS. 



GREAT BRITAIN, with 16 Maps, 30 Plans, and a Panorama. 

Fourth Edition. 1897. 10 marks. 

LONDON and its ENVIRONS, with 3 Maps and 20 Plans. 

Twelfth Edition. 1HO0. 6 marks. 

THE UNITED STATES, with an Excursion into Mexico. 

With la Maps and 24 Plans. Second Edition. 1899. 12 marks. 

THE DOMINION OF CANADA, with Newfoundland and 

ALASKA. With 10 Maps and 7 Plans. Second Edition. 1900. 5 marks. 

BELGIUM and HOLLAND, with 14 Maps and 22 Plans. 

Thirteenth Edition. 1901. marks. 

THE RHINE from Rotterdam to Constance, with 45 



Map.' 

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Edition. 
34 



ROBERT W. WOODRUFF 
LIBRARY 




1900. 
Maps 



and 



7 marks. 

65 Plans. 

8 marks. 

and 15 Plans. 

5 marks. 

Ninth Edition. 

8 marks. 

ps, 10 Plans, and 7 Pano- 

10 marks. 

aps and 34 Plans. Third 

7 marks. 

Plans and 

5 marks. 

h 10 Maps and 13 Plans. 

5 marks. 
Second Edition. 1S94. 8 marks. 

eghorn, Florence, Ra- 

leventh Edition. 1899. 8 marks. 



6 Maps 
Plans. 



1 15 Maps, 14 



CENTRAL ri'AJji assu jxkjiiixu, with 11 Maps, 46 Plans, and 

a Panorama of Rome. Thirteenth Edition. WOO. 7 marks 50 pf. 

SOUTHERN ITALY, SICILY, etc., with 28 Maps and 19 Plans. 

Thirteenth Edition. 1900. 6 marks. 

NORWAY, SWEDEN, and DENMARK, with 32 Maps, 

21 Plans, and 3 Panoramas. Seventh Edition. 1899. 10 marks. 

PARIS and its ENVIRONS, with Routes from London to 

PARIS. With 12 Maps and 36 Plans. Fourteenth dition. 1900. (5 marks. 

SPAIN and PORTUGAL, with 7 Maps and 47 Plans. Second 

Edition. 1001. 16 marks. 

SWITZERLAND, with 59 Maps, 13 Plans, and 11 Panoramas. 

Nineteenth Edition. 1901. 8 marks. 

EGYPT, and Nubia as far as the Second Cataract, with 

22 Maps, 55 Plans, and 66 Views and Vignettes. Fourth Edition. 
1898. 15 marks. 

PALESTINE and SYRIA, with 20 Maps, 48 Plans, and a 

Panorama of Jerusalem. Third Edition. 1898. 12 marks. 

CONVERSATION DICTIONARY, in four languages. 3 marks. 
MANUAL OF CONVERSATION, in four languages. 3 marks. 



SWITZERLAND 



MONEY TABLE. 

(Comp. p. xvii.) 
Approximate Equivalents. 



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SWITZERLAND 



AND THE ADJACENT PORTIONS OP 

ITALY, SAVOY, AND TYROL 



HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 



KARL BAEDEKER 



With 59 Maps, 13 Flans, and 11 Panobamas 



NINETEENTH EDITION 



LEIPSIC : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER. 
1901 



'Go, little book, God send thee good passage, 
And specially let this be thy prayere 
Unto them all that thee will read or hear, 
Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, 
Thee to correct in any part or all.' 



PREFACE. 



The object of the Handbook for Switzerland is to supply 
the traveller with all needful information, to point out the 
most interesting places and the best way of reaching them, 
to render him comparatively independent of the services of 
guides and others, and thus to enable him thoroughly to enjoy 
his tour in this magnificent country. 

With improved facilities for travel, the number of vis- 
itors to Switzerland has greatly increased of late years, and 
mountaineering ambition has been proportionally stimulated. 
Summits once deemed well-nigh inaccessible are now scaled 
annually by travellers from all parts of the world. The 
achievements of the modern Alpine clubs have dimmed the 
memory of De Saussure, Auldjo, and the other pioneers of 
these icy regions, and even ladies now frequently vie with 
the stronger sex in their deeds of daring. 

The Handbook is based on the Editor's personal ac- 
quaintance with the places described, most of which he 
has carefully and repeatedly explored. This edition, which 
corresponds with the twenty-ninth German edition, has been 
thoroughly revised, and furnished with the latest informa- 
tion obtainable. Its contents are divided into Seven Sec- 
tions (I. North Switzerland ; II. Central Switzerland, Lake 
of Lucerne and Environs, and St. Gotthard; III. Bernese 
Oberland; IV. South-Western Switzerland, Lake of Geneva, 
Lower Rhone Valley; V. Chamonix, the Valais, and the ad- 
jacent Italian Alps; VI. South-Eastern Switzerland, Grisons; 
VII. Lakes of North Italy), each of which may be separately 
removed from the book by the mountaineer or pedestrian who 
desires to minimize the bulk of his luggage. To each section 
is prefixed a list of the routes it contains, so that each forms 
an approximately complete volume apart from the general 
table of contents or the general index. 

The Editor will highly appreciate any corrections or 
suggestions with which travellers may favour him. The in- 
formation already received from numerous correspondents, 
which he gratefully acknowledges, has in many instances 
proved most serviceable. Annotated hotel-bills are always 
welcome. 

The Maps and Plans, on which special care has been 
bestowed, are baaed on Siegfried's Atlas of Switzerland and 



vl PREFACE. 

on Duf out's Map (pp. xxviii, xxix), and revised with the aid of 
other recent authorities and from the Editor's own experiences. 
Eight of them appear for the first time in this issue. 

Time Tables. The best Swiss publications are the 'Kurs- 
biicher' (time-tables) of Btirkli of Zurich (60 c.) and Stiimpfii 
of Bern (60 c), sold at most of the railway-stations. 

Heights are given in the text in English feet, on the 
maps in metres (1 Engl. ft. = 0.3048 metre; 1 metre = 3.281 
Engl, ft., or about 3 ft. 3 J /3 "*■)• Comp. p. xxxvii. — Distances 
on highroads and railways are given in English miles; while 
those on bridle-paths and mountain-routes are expressed by 
the time which they usually take. The number of miles at 
the beginning of a paragraph denotes the distance from the 
starting-point, while the distances from place to place are 
generally stated within brackets ; but on railway-routes the 
mileage is always reckoned from the starting-point. 

Hotels. Besides the first-class hotels, the Handbook 
mentions a number of the more modest inns also. The usual 
charges are stated in accordance with the Editor's own 
experience, or from the bills furnished to him by travel- 
lers. Hotel-charges, like carriage-fares and fees to guides, 
generally have an upward tendency, but an approximate 
statement of these items will enable the traveller to form 
an estimate of his probable expenditure. The value of the 
asterisks, which are used as marks of commendation, is 
relative only, signifying that the houses are good of their 
class. The Editor has distributed these asterisks as fully 
and impartially as his knowledge warrants, but there are 
doubtless many equally deserving houses among those not 
starred or even mentioned. 

To hotel-keepers, tradesmen, and others the Editor 
begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing towards 
travellers forms the sole passport to his commendation, and 
that advertisements of every kind are strictly excluded 
from his Handbooks. Hotel-keepers are also warned against 
persons representing themselves as agents for Baedeker's 
Handbooks. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

I. Plan of Tour xii 

II. Travelling Expenses. Money xvi 

III. Passports. Custom House xvii 

IV. Hotels and Pensions xviii 

V. Climate of Switzerland. Health Resorts xix 

VI. "Walking Tours xxiii 

VII. Cycling Tours xxv 

Vin. Maps xxviii 

IX. Guides xxix 

X. Carriages and Horses xxx 

XI. Diligences, Post Office, Telegraph xxxi 

XII. Railways xxxiii 

XIII. History. Statistics xxxiv 

XIV. Metrical Measures. Thermometer xxxvii 

Boute I. Northern Switzerland. 

1. Bale 3 

2. From Bale to Neucb&tel through the Val Moutier. ... 10 

3. From Bale to Bienne via Olten and Soleure 14 

4. From Bale to Bern viS, Aarburg 19 

5. From Bale to Lucerne via Olten 21 

6. From Bale to Zurich via Brugg 22 

7. From Olten to "Waldshut via Aarau and Turgi 25 

8. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance 27 

9. The Falls of the Rhine 30 

10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of Constance . 32 

11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur (Zurich) . 35 

12. From Schaffhausen to Zurich 36 

13. Zurich and its Environs 38 

14. From Zurich to Coire. Lakes of Zurich and "Walenstadt 47 

15. From Zurich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen ... 56 

16. From Zurich to St. Gallen, Rorschach, and Lindau ... 57 

17. The Canton of Appenzell 62 

18. From Rorschach to Coire 68 

19. From Wil through the Toggenburg to Buchs on the Rhine 71 

20. Ragatz and its Environs 73 

21. From Zurich to Glarus and Linthal 77 

22. From Linthal to Altdorf. Klausen Road. Schachen-Thal. 82 

23. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel 84 

24. From Glarus to Elm through the Sernf-Thal 86 

II. Central Switzerland. Lake of Lucerne and Environs. 

The St. Gotthard. 

25. From Zurich to Zug and Lucerne 91 

26. Lucerne 94 



viii CONTENTS. 

Route p 

27. Lake of Lucerne qq 

28. The Rigi .....'...'. 108 

29. From Lucerne to Alpnachstad. Pilatus 113 

30. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth-Goldau ' \\q 

31. From Zurich via Wadenswil to Arth-Goldau. Einsiedeln 118 

32. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Gotthard Railway . . 121 

33. From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard . '. ] 131 

34. The Maderaner-Thal jog 

35. From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. The Furka . . 138 

36. From Lucerne to Engelberg ' m 

37. From Lucerne over the Briinig to Meiringen and Brienz 
(Interlaken) a i» 

38. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Engstlen-Alp. Joch Pass 150 

39. From Meiringen to Wassen. Susten Pass 152 

40. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmen-Thal 154 

41. From Lucerne to Wildegg (AarauJ. The Seethal Railway 157 

III. The Bernese Oberland. 

42. Bern jgQ 

43. From Bern to Thun . . . inn 

44. The Niesen .'.'.'.'.'.'.'!'"' 171 

45. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun . . . . . . .' 172 

46. Interlaken and Environs .... 

47. The Lauterbrunnen Valley and Miirren ....''. 183 

48. From Interlaken to Grindelwald 1 on 

49. TheFaulhorn '.'.'.'.'.'.'' 198 

50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz' . . . . 200 

51. From Meiringen to Grindelwald . 204 

52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel . . . . 207 

53. From Spiez to Leuk over the Gemmi 211 

54. From Gampel to Kandersteg. LStschen Pass . . . . ' 217 

55. From Frutigen to Adelboden 219 

56. From Spiez to Saan en through the Simmen-Thal. . . . 221 

57. From Spiez to Lenk and to Sion over the Rawyl ..." 224 

IV. Western Switzerland. Lake of Geneva. Lower Valley of the 

Rhone. 

58. From Bern to Neuchatel 228 

59. From Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds and Locle' .' . .' . 231 

60. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier through the Val de Travers 233 
bl. From Neuchatel to Lausanne 235 

62. From Bern to Lausanne [ 237 

63. From Lausanne to Payerne and Lyss , 241 

64. From Lausanne to Vallorbe and Pontarlier .....' 243 

65. Geneva and its Environs ' 244 

66. From Geneva to Martigny via Lausanne and Villeneuve. 
Lake of Geneva (North Bank) 267 



CONTENTS. ix 

Route Page 

67. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon 276 

68. From Bulle to Chateau-d'Oex and Aigle 278 

69. From Bex to Gryon and Villars 281 

70. From Geneva to St. Maurice via Bouveret. Lake of Geneva 
(South Bank). Val d'Hliez 283 

V. Chamonix, the Valais, and the adjacent Italian Alps. 

71. From Geneva to Chamonix 292 

72. Chamonix and Environs 297 

73. From Chamonix to Martigny over the Tete-Noire , or to 
Vernayaz via Triquent and Salvan 305 

74. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme 309 

75. From Chamonix to Courmayeur oveT the Col du Bonhomme 

and the Col de la Seigne. Tour du Mont Blanc .... 311 

76. From Courmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea 317 

77. From Martigny to Aosta. Great St. Bernard 322 

78. From Martigny to' Aosta over the Col de Fenetre. Val de 
Bagnes 328 

79. FTom Martigny to Domodossola over the Simplon . . . 331 

80. From the Rhone Glacier to Brigue. The Eggishorn . . . 340 

81. From Ulrichen to Domodossola. Gries Pass. Falls of the 
Tosa. Val Formazza 345 

82. The S. Valleys of the Valais, between Sion and Turtmann 
(Val d'He"rens, Val d'Anniviers, Turtmann Valley) . . . 347 

83. From Visp to Zermatt 358 

84. From Visp to Saas and Mattmark 368 

85. From Piedimulera to Macugnaga, and over the Monte Moro 
Pass to Mattmark 371 

86. From Macugnaga to Zermatt round Monte Rosa .... 373 

87. From Chatillon to Valtournanche and over the TModule 
Pass to Zermatt 377 

VI. South-Eastern Switzerland. The Grisons. 

88. Coire 382 

89. From Coire to Arosa through the Schanflgg-Thal. . . . 384 

90. From Landquart to Davos through the Pratigau and to 
Schuls over the Fliiela Pass 387 

91. From Davos to Tiefenkastell (Landwasser Road) . . . • 391 

92. From Coire to Tiefenkastell via Churwalden 396 

93. From Coire to Thusis 398 

94. From Bonaduz or Reichenau to Goschenen. Oberalp . . 400 

95. From Disentis to Biasca. The Lukmanier 409 

96. From Thusis to Colico over the Spliigen. Via Mala . . 411 

97. From Spliigen to Bellinzona. Bernardino 417 

98. From Thusis (Coire) to the Engadine over the Julier . . 419 

99. From Thusis (Coire) to the Engadine over the Albula Pass 422 



x CONTENTS. 

Route Page 

100. The Upper Engadine from the Maloja to Samaden . . . 425 

101. Pontreaina and Environs '. 435 

102. From Samaden to Nauders. Lower Engadine .... 445 

103. From Samaden-Pontresina over the Bernina to Tirano 

and through the Val Tellina to Oolico 453 

104. From the Maloja to Chiavenna. Val Bregaglia .... 456 

105. From Tirano to Nauders over the Stelvio 458 

106. From Nauders to Bregenz over the Arlberg 461 

VII. The Italian lakes. 

107. From Bellinzona to Lugano and Como (Milan) .... 465 

108. From Bellinzona to Locarno. Val Maggia 471 

109. Lago Maggiore. The Borromean Islands 475 

110. From Domodossola to Novara. Lake of Orta 482 

111. From Luino on Lago Maggiore to Menaggio on the Lake 

of Como. Lake of Lugano 486 

112. The Lake of Como 487 

113. From Como to Milan 495 

Index 498 



List of Maps. 

(Comp. Key Map after the General Index.) 

1. Map of Switzerland (1:1,000,000), before the title-page. 

2. The North-Eastebn Juba (Val-Moutier-Bienne-Soleure; 1:150,000); p. 12. 

3. Envibons of Schaffhausen (1 : 33,000) ; p. 30. 

4. District between Schaffhausen and Constance (1:250,000); p. 32. 

5. Lake of Constance (1 : 250,000) ; p. 34. 

6. Lakes of Zubich and Zug (1 : 250,000) ; p. 48. 

7. Canton of Appenzell (1:260,000); p. 62. 

8. Canton of Glabus (1 : 250,000) ; p. 78. 

9. Todi Distbict (1 : 150,000) ; p. 80. 

10. Lake of Lucerne (1 : 250,000) ; p. 98. 

11. Pilatus (1 : 100,000); p. 99. 

12. Rigi (1: 100,000); p. 108. 

13. Environs of the St. Gotthard (1:250,000); p. 124. 

14. Loop Tunnels of the St. Gotthabd Railway (1:25,000); p. 125. 

15. Trift District (1: 150,000); p. 130. 

16. Environs of Engelberg (1:150,000); p. 142. 

17. Environs of Thun (1 : 26,000) ; p. 170. 

18. Bernese Obebland (1:260,000); p. 170. 

19. Lake of Thun and the Lower Valleys of the Simme and Eander 
(1 : 150,000) ; p. 172. 

20. Environs of Interlaken (1:26,000); p. 182. 
2t. Environs of Geindelwald (1:150,000); p. 182. 

22. Upper Lauterbrunnen Valley (1 : 150,000) ; p. 183. 

23. Environs of Kandersteg (1:150,000); p. 212. 

24. The North-Western Jura (La-Chaux-de-Fonds-Neuch&tel; 1:150,000); 
p. 230. 

25. The Central Jura (Val-de-Travert-Yverdon; 1:150,000); p. 234. 

26. Environs of Freiburg (1:27,500); p. 23S. 

27. The Western Jura (Lac-de-Jottx-Coitonay-Morget; 1:150,000); p. 242. 

28. Environs of Geneva fl : 150,000); p. 254. 

29. Lake of Geneva (1 : 250,000) ; p. 256. 



LIST OF MAPS. xi 

30. Envibons of Montreux (1 : 50,000); _p. 266. 

31. Ohmont Valleys (1 : 150,000); p. 276. 

32. The Valley of the Saeine and the TJppee Valley of the Simme 
(1:150,000); p. 280. 

33. Val d'Illiez and Dent dd Midi (1:150,000); p. 286. 

34. Chamonix and Mont Blanc (1:150,000); p. 286. 

35. Environs of the Great St. Beenakd (1:150,000); p. 322. 

36. Environs of the Simflon and Val Antigobio (1 : 150,000); p. 336. 

37. Aletsch District (1 : 150,000); p. 340. 

38. Environs of the Gries Pass, and the N.W. Ticino Alps (1 : 150,000) ; 
p. 344. 

39. The Southern Environs of Sion (1:150,000); p. 34S. 

40. Environs of Sieree, Val d'Anniviers, andTurtmannValley(1:150,000); 
p. 352. 

41. Lower Valley of the Visp and Environs of Stalden and Saas 
(1 : 150,000) ; p. 358. 

42. Environs of Zermatt (1 : 150,000) ; p. 360. 

43. Environs of Ragatz, the Pratigau, and the Montafon (1 : 250,000); 
p. 386. 

44. Central Grisons Alps, from Coire and Davos to Samaden (1 : 250,000); 
p. 390. 

45. Vorder-Bheinthal (1 : 250,000) ; p. 400. 

46. Environs of Ilanz and Flims (1 : 150,000) ; p. 402. 

47. Val Tavetsch and Val Medel (1:150,000); p. 406. 

48. District from the Lukmanier to the Maloja (1 : 250,000) ; p. 416. 

49. The Engadine and Val Tellina (1:500,000); p. 424. 

50. The Upper Engadine (1 : 150,000) ; p. 434. 

51. The Lower Engadine (1:250,000); p. 446. 

52. Environs of Lugano (1 : 150,000); p. 468. 

53. Environs of Locarno (1:150,0001; p. 472. 

54. Lago Maggiore (1:250,000); p. 478. 

55. Environs of Pallanza (1 : 65,000); p. 478. 

56. Environs of Stresa (1:65,000); p. 479. 

57. Lakes of Como and Lugano (1 : 250,000) ; p. 486. 

58. Environs of Como (1 : 28,000); p. 494. 

59. Key Map of Switzerland (1 : 1,900,000), after the Index. 



Panoramas and Views. 

Bigi-Kulm (p. 110); Pilatus (p. 116); Bern (p. 161); Niesen (p. 171); 
Murren (p. 187); Faulhorn (p. 198); Flegere (p. 300); Eggishorn (p. 342); 
Gorner Grat (p. 360); Piz Languard (p. 440); Monte Generoso (p. 470). 

Flans of Towns. 

Bale, p.2; Constance, p. 31; Zurich, p. 38; Ragatz, p. 74; Lucerne, p. 94; 

Bern, p. 160; Neuchatel, p. 228; Geneva, p. 244 ; Lausanne, p. 260; Coire, 

p. 382; Lugano, p. 466; Locarno, p. 472; Milan, p. 494. 

Abbreviations. 

R. = Room,including Rfmts. = refreshments, hr. = Hour, 

light and attendance. M. = English mile. min. = Minute. 

A. = Attendance. ft. (') = Engl. foot. c, ca. = circa, about. 

B. = Breakfast. N. = North, northern, carr. = Carriage. 

L. = Light. S. = South, southern. S.A.C. = Swiss Alpine Club. 

Dej. = Dejeuner, E. = East, eastern. I.A.C. = Italian Alpine Club 

Luncheon. W. = West, western. S.B.G.H. = Society des 

D. = Dinner. r. = Right. Bibliotheques des Grands 

S. = Supper. 1. = Left. Hotels (see p. xviii). 

Asterisks are used as marks of commendation. 
With regard to distances, see Preface. 



I. Plan of Tour. 

Season of the Tear. Distribution of Time. 

The traveller -will save both time and money by planning his tout 
carefully before leaving home. The Handbook -will help him to 
select the most interesting routes and the pleasantest resting- 
places, and point out how each day may be disposed of to the best 
advantage, provided the weather be favourable. 

Season. The great majority of tourists visit Switzerland between 
the middle of July and the end of September; but to those who 
wish to see the scenery, the vegetation, and particularly the Alpine 
flowers in perfection, June is recommended as the most charming 
month in the year. For expeditions among the higher Alps the 
month of August is the best season ; but above a height of 6500 ft. 
snow-storms may occur at any time except in thoroughly settled 
weather. In ordinary seasons the snow disappears from the Rigi and 
the more frequented routes through the Bernese Oberland at the 
beginning of June. On the other hand snow sometimes lies through- 
out the whole season on the Furka, the Grimsel, the Gemmi, etc. 
The most loftily situated hotels aTe generally closed till the end 
of June. 

Distribution of Time. One Month, as the annexed plan shows, 
suffices for a glimpse at the most interesting parts of Switzerland. 
Bale, where the scenery is least interesting, is a good starting- 
point, but the traveller may find it more convenient to begin with 
Geneva ot Neuchatel. 

Days 
By railway from Bdle to Neuhausen; visit the Falls of the Rhine; by 

railway via Eglitau to Zurich (RR. 1, 8, 9, 12) 1 

Zurich and the Uetliberg (R. 13) 1 

From Zurich by railway via Zug and Arth-Goldau to the Rigi-Kulm 

(RR. 26, 30, 28) 1 

From the Rigi by railway to Vitznau (or on foot to Weggis) ; by 

steamboat to Lucerne, and one day at Lucerne (RR. 28, 27, 26) l'/2 
By steamer on the Lake of Lucerne to Brunnen; visit the Riitli, 

Axenstein, etc. (R. 27) 1 

By steamer from Brunnen to Fliielen (or by steameT to the Tells- 
Platte and thence on foot by the Axenstrasse to Fliielen) ; by the 
St. Gotthard Railway to GSschenen; by omnibus or on foot to 

Andermatt (RR. 27, 32, 33) 1 

By carriage or on foot over the Furka to the Rhone Glacier (R. 35); 

walk over the Grimsel to the Grimsel Hospice (R. 52) 1-2 

Drive or walk down the Hasli-Thal (Handegg Fall) to Meiringen 

(RR. 52, 50) 1 

Walk from Meiringen (Falls of the Reichenbach) through the Ber- 
nese Oberland, by the Scheidegg, to Grindelwald, with ascent of 

the Faulhorn (RR. 51, 49) 1-2 

By railway from Grindelwald over the Kleine Scheidegg (Eiger Glacier, 

Lauberhorn) to Lauterbrvnnen (Staubbach ; R.49) and Miirren (R. 47) 1 
Walk via. the Obere Steinberg to Trachsellauenen and back to Lauter- 
brnnnen ; by railway to Interlaken (R. 47) 1 



I, PLAN OF TOUR. xiii 

Days 
Excursions from Interlaken (St. Beatenberg, Schynige Platte, Brienzer 

Bothhorn, etc. ; RR. 46, 45, 60) . . 2 

By railway or steamer to Spiez; railway to Frutigen; drive or walk 

to Kandersteg (R. 63) 1 

(Excursions from Kandersteg to the Oeschinen-See, Gastern-Thal, etc.). (1) 
Walk from Kandersteg over the Gemmi to Bad Leuk (with visit to 

the Torrenthorn) ; walk or drive to Leuk-Susten station (R. 53) ; by 

railway to Visp (R. 79) and Zermatt (R. 83) 1-2 

Excursions from Zermatt (Qorner Grat, Schwarzsee, etc. ; R. 83) . . 2 

Railway to Visp (R. 83) and Martigny (R. 79) 1 

To Chamonix by the Col de Balme, the THe-Noire , or Salvan (RR. 

73, 74) 1 

Chamonix (R. 72) 1-2 

By omnibus to Geneva (R. 71) 1 

Geneva and Environs (R. 65) 1 

By steamboat on the Lake of Geneva (R. 66) to Montreux (Chilian, 

Glion, etc.) 1-2 

By railway to Lausanne; several hours at Lausanne; by railway in 

the afternoon to Freiburg (RR. 66, 62) 1 

By railway to Bern (R. 62) ; at Bern (R. 42) 1 

By railway to Bale (R. 4); at Bale (R. 1) 1 

A fortnight additional may be pleasantly spent in Eastern 
Switzerland (Appenzell, Bad Pfafers, Via Mala, Upper Engadine), 
whence the Italian Lakes are easily visited. 

Days 

From Rorschach or Ziirich to Pfafers and Coire (RR. 14, 18, 20, 88) 1 
Railway to Thusis (R. 93) ; visit the Via Mala as far as the third bridge, 

and return to Thusis (R. 96) , 1 

Diligence through the Schyn Pass and over the Julier to Silvaplana 

(R. 98) and St. Moritz (R. 100) 1 

Drive to the Maloja and back (R. 100); in the evening to Pon- 

tresina (R. 101) 1 

Pontresina (Morteratsch and Eoseg Glaciers; ascent of the Piz Lan- 

guard, etc.; R. 101) 2-3 

Diligence over the Bernina to Tirano and Sondrio (R. 103); railway 

to Colico (R. 103) ; steamer to Bellagio (R. 112) ........ l'/» 

Bellagio (Villa Serbelloni, Villa Carlotta, etc.); then via Menaggio 

and Porlezza to Lugano (RR. 112, 111) 1 

Environs of Lugano (Mte. San Salvaiore or Mte. Generoso; R. 107) . 1-1 '/a 
Steamboat to Ponte Tresa, railway to Luino (R. Ill) ; steamer to the 

Borromean Islands and to Pallanza or Stresa (R. 109) 1 

Steamboat to Laveno, and back by the St. Gotthard Railway to 

Lucerne 1 

Or by railway and diligence over the Simplon to Brigue (R. 79) . . 1 



So comprehensive a tour as the above is, of course, rarely under- 
taken; but it will enable the traveller to plan an excursion of suit- 
able length, such as one of the following : — 

I. Eight Dais fbom Bale. 
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Rhone Glacier, St. Gotthard Route.) 
1st. From Bdle (or Constance or Romanshom) to Ziirich. 
2nd. To Zug, Arth, the Rigi, and Lucerne. 

3rd. By the Brilnig Railway to Meiringen (Gorge of the Aare; Pilatut 
or Brienzer Rothhorn •/*"! day extra) and Brienz; by steamboat to the 
Giessbach and Interlaken. 



xiv I. PLAN OF TOUR. 

4th. Railway to Laulerbrunnen, Milrren, and over the Wengern-Alp to 
Grindelwald (better partly on foot, taking another day). 
5th. Over the Great Scheidegg to Innertkirchen. 
6th. Over the Orimtel to the Rhone Glacier. 
7th. By the Furka to Andermatt or Gdschenen. 
8th. To Flilelen, Lucerne, and Bdle. 

II. Twelve ok Foubteen Days fkom Bale. 
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Zermatt, Gemmi.) 
lst-6th. As in Tonr I. 

7th. Over the Qrimsel to the Rhone Glacier. Drive to Fietch; walk 
or ride to the Hdtel Jungfrau. 

8th. Ascend the Eggithorn; walk via. the Riederalp to Brigue. 

9th. By railway to Visp and Zermatt. 

10th. Ascend the Riffelberg and Gorner Grat, etc. 

11th. Railway to Viip and Loueche; walk or drive to Bad Leuk. 

12th. Over the Gemmi to Kandertteg; drive to Spiez; train to Bern. 

III. Eighteen Days feom Bale. 
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Zermatt, Chamonix, Late of Geneva.) 

Ist-lOth. As in Tour II. 

11th. By train to Visp and Martigny. 

12th. Over the Tete-Noire or the Col de Balme to Chamonix. 

13th, 14th. Excursions from Chamonix. 

16th. By Salvan to Yernayaz; by train to Montreux. 

16th, 17th. To Glion (Naye), Vevey, Lausanne, and Geneva. 

18th. To Freiburg, Bern, and Bdle (or from Bern to Neuch&tel). 

IV. Eighteen to Twenty Days feom Bale. 
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Southern Valais, Chamonix.) 
lst-9th. As in Tour II. 
10th. Ascend the Gorner Grat and return to St. Niklaus. 
11th. Cross the Augstbord Pass (ascent of Schwarzhorn) to Meiden. 
12th. Cross the Meiden Pass (ascent of Bella Tola) to St. Luc, Hdtel 
Weisshorn, or Viisoye. 

13th. To Zinal and back. 
14th. Cross the Col de Torrent to Evolena. 

15th, 16th. At Evolena (Arolla and Ferpecle), and return to Sion. 
17th, 18th. Cross the Gemmi to Kandersteg and Thun (or by railway 
to Lausanne, Freiburg, and Bern). 

(Or: 16th. From Evolena to Sion and Martigny. 17th-20th. To Cha- 
monix, Geneva, etc., as in Tour III.) 

V. Seven Days fkom Bale. 
(Bernese Oberland, Rigi, St. Gotthard Railway, Italian Lakes.) 

1st. From Bdle to Bern and Interlaken. 

2nd. To Laulerbrunnen, Milrren, and over the Wengern-Alp to Grin- 
delwald. 

3rd. Over the Great Scheidegg to Meiringen. 

4th. Over the Brilnig to Alpnachstad (ascent of Pilatus) and Lucerne. 

5th. By the St. Gotthard Railway to Laveno; steamboat to Stresa 
(Borromean Islands). 

6th. By Luino and Lugano to Bellagio. 

7th. Steamer to Como; St. Gotthard Railway to Lucerne, etc. 

VI. Eight oe Ten Days from Bale. 
(Rigi, Lake of Lucerne, St. Gotthard, Italian Lakes, SplUgen.) 
1st. From Bdle to Lucerne, and by railway to the Rigi-Kulm. 
2nd. Descend to Vittnau ; steamer to Brunnen (Axenstein, RUtli, etc.). 



I. PLAN OF TOUR. xv 

(One or two additional days : visit the Maderaner-Thal from Amtteg, 
and return by the Staf/eln. By train or carriage to OStchenen.) 
3rd. By the St. Gotthard Line to Locarno. 
4th. To the Borromean Islands, Luino, and Lugano. 
5th. By Como, or by Porlezza, to Bellagio. 
6th. Walks at Bellagio; steamer to Colico; drive to Chiavenna. 
7th. Cross the Splilgen to Coire. 
8th. To Zurich and Neuch&tel (or to the Fallt of the Rhine and B&le). 

VII. Twelve to Fourteen Days eeom Bale. 

(Same as Tour VI, with the addition of the Upper Engadine.) 
lst-5th. As in Tour VI. 

6th. To Chiavenna and through the Val Bregaglia to Casaccia. 
7th. Cross the Maloja to St. Uoritz and Pontretina. 
8th, 9th. At Pontresina (Schafberg, Pit Languard, etc.). 
10th. Cross the Albula to Tiefenkaitell and through the Schyn Pats 

to 5T7ju«!». 
11th. Thutis (Via Mala) and thence to Coire. 
12th. To Ragatz (Pfafert) and Zurich. 

VIII. Sixteen to Eighteen Days fkom Bale. 

(Same as Tour VII, with the addition of the Val Tellina and Lower Engadine.) 

lst-8th. As in Tour VII. 

9th. Cross the Bernina to Tirano. 

10th. Through the Val Tellina to Bormio. 

11th. Cross the Wormter Joch (Piz Umbrail) to St. Maria in the 
MUmter-Thal (or cross the Stelvio to Trafoi and Spondinig). 

12th. Over the 0/c» Paw to Zernetz (or drive by Naudert and Marlint- 
bruclc to Schult). 

13th. Cross the FlUela Pan to Z>o»o«. 

14th. Landwasser Road to Tiefenkaslell and Thusii. 

15th, 16th. As 11th and 12th of Tour VII. 

All the above toms are adapted for moderate walkers, and 
may of course be varied at pleasure. 

Lastly, to travellers who are disinclined for a prolonged tour, 
the following notes may be acceptable : — 

Famous Points of View. 

1. In the Jura (with the Alps in the distance, the lower Swiss 
hills in the foreground, and, from the westernmost points, the lakes 
of Bienne, Neuchatel, and Geneva) : Hdtel Schweizerhof (p. SO), by the Falls 
of the Rhine ; the * Weissenstein (p. 18), near Soleure ; the Frohburg (p. 15), 
near Olten; the Schafmatt (p. 15), near Aarau; the Chasseral (p. 14), the 
Chaumont (p. 232), and the Tite de Rang (p. 232), in Canton Neuchatel ; the 
'Signal de Chexbres (p. 241), the 'Signal de Bougy (p. 260), the Dole (p. 259), 
and the Dent de Vaulion (p. 244), in the Canton de Vaud. 

2. Nearer the Alps, or among the Lower Alps: 

(a). On the N. side of the Alps: the Kaien (p. 64), Hohe Kasten 
(p. 67), and Senlis (p. 66), in Canton Appenzell; the "Uetliberg (p. 46), the 
Pfannenttiel (p. 48), and the Bachtel (p. 51), near Zurich ; the Speer (p. 53), near 
Weesen; the Alvier (p. 55), near Sargans; the BVrnli and Nollen (p. 58), 
near Wi! ; the Sonnenberg (p. 99), the "Rigi (p. 108), "Pilatus (p. 115), 
'Stanser Born (p. 141), Myten (p. 123), Niederbauen (p. 102), and Fronalpstock 
(p. 105), near the Lake of Lucerne ; the Titlit (p. 145), near Engelberg ; the 
Jfap/(p. 156), in the Emmen-Thal; theHomberg (p. 158), in the Seethal; the 
"Schdnzli (p. 167) and the Qurten (p. 168), near Bern; the Molison (p. 279) 
and Jaman (p. 280), in Canton Freiburg; the Saleve (p. 256), the Voirons 
(p. 257), and the Mdle (p. 295), in Savoy, near Geneva; the 'Rochert de 



xvi I. PLAN OF TOUR. 

Nay* (p. 269), near Glion; the Chamossaire (p. 283), near Villars; the 
Grammont (p. 286), near St. Gingolph. 

(b). On the S. side of the Alps : "Monte Generoso (p. 471), "Monte San Sal- 
vatore (p. 469), and Monte Bre (p. 469), near the Lake of Lugano ; Monte 
Mottarone (p. 481) and Monte Nudo (p. 477), on Lago Maggiore ; the Monte 
San Primo (p. 49t), near the Lake of Como; the Becca di Nona (p. 319), near 
Aosta ; the Grammont (p. 317), near Pre' St. Didier. 

3. Among the High Alps : Niesen (p. 171), Amisbiihel (p. 176), Heim- 
wehjluh (p. 180), Abendberg (p. 180), Sulegg (p. 180), Harder (p. 181), "Schynige 
Platte (p. 182), "Murren (p. 186), Schilthorn (p. 187), Obere Steinberg (p. 185), 
Wengern-Alp (p. 192), "Lavberhom (p. 193), Mdnnlichen (p. 194), "Faulhorn 
(p. 198), "Brienzer Rothhorn (p. 202), "Kleine Siedelhorn (p. 209), "Gemmi 
(p. 215), Mannlifluh (p. 220), and Wildhorn (p. 225), in the Bernese Ober- 
land; the "Pitzo Centrale (p. 134), on the St. Gotthard; the Furkahorn 
(p. 140), "Eggishorn (p. 342), Sparrhorn (p. 335), Torrenthorn (p. 216), 
Pierre a Voir (p. 276), "Gorner Grat (p. 361), Schwarzhorn (p. 357), 'Bella 
Tola (p. 356), and Pic d'Arzinol (p. 349), in the Valais ; the Col de Balme 
(p. 310), "FUgere (p. 300), Buet (p. 296), and 'Brivent (p. 301), near Chamonix ; 
Piz Umbrail (p. 460), on the Stelvio routes Muottas Murail (p. 439), Schaf- 
berg (p. 439), "Piz Languard (p. 440), Piz Ot (p. 435), Schwarzhorn (p. 390), 
Statzerhorn (p. 397), Piz Mundaun (p. 403), and Piz Muraun (p. 406), in 
the Grisons. 

Principal Alpine Passes. 
Pre-eminent in point of scenery is the Simplon (R. 79). The St. Gott- 
hard (RR. 32, 33) is of interest less for itself than for the approaches to 
it on the N. and S. Next to these ranks the Spliigen (R. 96), parti- 
cularly on the N. side, where it coincides with the Bernardino Route 
(R. 97). The finest approach to the Engadine is by the Schyn Road (R. 98) 
and the Albula Pass (R. 99); and the beautiful Maloja Pass (RR. 100, 
104) leads thence to the Lake of Como. From the Engadine the interesting 
Bernina Pass (R. 103) crosses to the somewhat monotonous Val Tellina, the 
journey through which has, however, been much facilitated by the railway 
from Sondrio to Colico (p. 416). The famous Great St. Bernard (R. 77), 
apart from its hospice, is undoubtedly the least interesting of the series. 

Headquarters for Mountaineering. 
The most important are Grindelwald (p. 194), Lauterbrunnen (p. 184), 
Meiringen (p. 200), Engelberg (p. 143), Maderaner-Thal (p. 137), Kandersteg 
(p. 213), Evolena (p. 348), Zinal (p. 354), Zermatt (p. 359), Saas (p. 368), 
Chamonix (p. 297), Courmayeur (p. 315), Macugnaga (p. 372), and Pontresina 
(p. 435), at all of which experienced guides abound. 



Alpine Glow (Alpengliihen) is the name given to the rich glow seen 
on the snowy peaks and rocky summits of the Alps a few minutes after 
the setting sun has disappeared from view, while the valleys are already 
in twilight. 

II. Travelling Expenses. Money. 

Expenses. The cost of a tour in Switzerland depends of course 
npon the habits and tastes of the traveller. The pedestrian's daily 
expenditure, exclusive of guides, maybe estimated at 12-15 fr., or 
even less, if he selects the more modest inns. The traveller, on the 
other hand, who prefers driving and riding to walking, who always 
goes to the best hotels, and never makes an ascent without a guide, 



III. PASSPORTS. xvil 

must be prepared to spend at least twice the above sum ; while the 
mountaineer's expenses will often amount to several pounds for a 
single glacier-expedition (comp. p. 303). 

Money. The Swiss monetary system was assimilated to that of 
France in 1851 . In gold theTe are coins of 20 fr., in silver of 5, 2, 1, 
and 1 / 2 fr., in nickel 20, 10, and 5 centimes (or 'Rappen'), and in 
copper 2 and 1 c. pieces. The only silver coins with legal currency 
are the Swiss, Italian, French, and Belgian 5 fr. pieces, the Swiss 
pieces of 2, 1, and 72 fr- issued since 1873, the French pieces of the 
same value issued since 1864-66, the Belgian coins of the same de- 
nomination with the portrait of Leopold II., and the Greek ones with 
the portrait of George I. All others should be refused, as they cannot 
be exchanged without serious loss. A number of cantonal banks 
issue legal tender notes of 50, 100, 500, and 1000 fr.; these, how- 
ever, are payable, not in gold, but in silver or paper, which are, 
indeed, practically the only money circulating in Switzerland, gold 
being at a premium of 50 c. or more for 100 fr. One franc = 100 c. 
= Wfed. English sovereigns (25 fr.) and banknotes are received 
almost everywhere at the full value ; but the circular notes, issued 
by many of the English and American banks, are safer for carrying 
large sums. German gold and banknotes also realize their full value 
(20 marks = 24 fr. 60-70 c). — For Savoy (Chamonix) gold pieces 
or French banknotes are requisite. — In Italy the paper currency 
is much depreciated, and, as this is not always taken into account 
at hotels and railway-stations, it is advisable to provide oneself at 
a money-changer's with a supply of notes. 



III. Passports. Custom House. 

Passports. In Switzerland passports must be shown in order to 
obtain delivery of registered letters, and are sometimes of service in 
proving the traveller's identity. For walking tours in the French 
and Italian frontier districts a passport is indispensable. A passport 
is also necessary (even for minors) to obtain the 'permis de sejour' 
without which no foreigner is allowed to reside in a canton. The 
principal passport-agents in London are : Buss, 440 West Strand; 
C. Smith fy Son, 63 Charing Cross ; W. J. Adams, 59 Fleet Street 
(charge 2s.; agent's fee 1*. 6d.). 

Custom House. Luggage undergoes a slight examination at the 
Swiss frontier. The duty on cigars is l 1 ^ fr- per kilogramme 
(2y 5 lbs.), but 50 or so are usually passed free. At the French, 
Italian , and Austrian frontiers the examination is sometimes strict, 
and tobacco and cigars pay a heavy duty, but at the German frontier 
the visite is usually lenient. As a rule the traveller should restrict 
his belongings as far as possible to wearing apparel and articles for 
personal use. 

Baedekeb, Switzerland. 19th Edition. b 



Will 

IV. Hotels and Pensions. 

Hotels. Switzerland is famous for its hotels. The large modern 
establishments at Geneva, Vevey, Zurich, Lucerne, Interlaken, etc., 
are models of organisation ; the smaller hotels are often equally well 
conducted, and indeed a really bad inn is rarely met with in French 
or German Switzerland. 

The ordinary charges at the first-class hotels aTe: bedroom, 
light, and attendance 3V2-B ft- > breakfast (tea or coffee , bread, 
butter, and honey) l'/2 f r - ' n * ne public room, 2 fr. in the trav- 
eller's apartment; luncheon ('dejeuner', 'Gahelfriihstiick'), 3-4 f r. ; 
table-d'hote dinner ('diner') 4-6 fr. ; supper generally a la carte. The 
traveller should at once ascertain at the office the charges of the 
rooms. Absence from table-d'hote is apt to be looked at askance. 
At the large hotels the best accommodation is generally reserved for 
families and ."parties, while the solitary traveller is consigned to the 
inferior rooms at equally high charges. — In the following pages, 
when not otherwise indicated, R. (room) is used to include light 
and attendance. 'Pension' generally includes room, full board, ser- 
~vi>:e, and lights (but see p. xix). 

At the second-class inns the average charges are : bedroom 
172-2 fr., breakfast 1-1 i / i fr., table-d'h6te 2-3 fr., service discre- 
tionary, and no charge for 'bougies'. In many of the more remote 
mountain-inns, however, the prices are higher owing to the diffi- 
culty and cost of the transport of supplies. The sensible traveller 
will easily make allowance for this ; and he will generally find the 
entertainment remarkably good under the circumstances. Previous 
enquiry as to charges is quite customary. 

Opinions regarding hotels often differ ; but travellers will rarely 
have much cause to complain if they try to comply with the cus- 
toms of the country, restrict their luggage to a moderate quantity 
(p. xxxiii), and learn enough of the language to make themselves 
intelligible. 

If a prolonged stay is made at a hotel, the bill should be asked for 
every three or four days, in order that errors, whether accidental or de- 
signed, may more easily be detected. When an early departure is contem- 
plated, the bill should be obtained over-night. It is not an uncommon 
practice to withhold the bill till the last moment, when the hurry and 
confusion of starting render overcharges less liable to discovery. 

In the height of the season the hotels at the favourite resorts of trav- 
ellers are often crowded. To prevent disappointment rooms should be tele- 
graphed for (p. xxxii). 

Most travellers err in giving too large Gratuities. When attendance 
is charged in the bill, nothing more need be given except to the boots 
and porter. In any case the amount of the fees should never exceed 
5-10 per cent of the bill. In some of the best hotels the servanls are 
forbidden to accept gratuities. When practicable, the bill should be 
fettled at the cashier's office, not through a waiter. 

Many of the large hotels of Switzerland contain depots of the SocUti 
det Bibliothtque! des Qrandt Iietelt (S. B. G. H.), a company formed for 
the sale of books (English, French, German) and maps in places not 
possessing a regular bookseller. 



V. CLIMATE. xix 

Pensions. Boarding-houses or 'pensions' abound at Lucerne, 
Geneva, Interlaken, and in many other parts of Switzerland ; and 
most of the hotels also make pension arrangements with guests who 
stay for 4-5 days and upwards. The charge for board and lodging 
varies from 41/2 to 10 fr. or more, and at some of the most famous 
health-resorts and watering-places sometimes amounts to 20 fr. 
per day. As the word 'pension' is sometimes used to signify board 
only, the traveller should ascertain whether rooms are included in 
the charge or not. It is always advantageous, when possible, to 
make arrangements for 'pension' in advance by writing to the land- 
lord on a 'reply post-card'. 

V. Climate of Switzerland. Health Resorts. 

In a mountainous country such as Switzerland the influence of 
height upon climate may naturally be studied in almost every con- 
ceivable gradation. Valuable conclusions have been reached- by the 
meteorological observatories devoted to the investigation of elevated 
climates , not only on the higher Alps but also in the Jura and 
among the lower mountains. 

The Purity of the Atmosphere stands in direct ratio to the height 
above the sea-level. Apart from accidental interruptions , caused 
by the presence of manufactories or similar sources of atmospheric 
impurity, the number of bacteria steadily diminishes as we ascend, 
until at about 1850' above the sea-level they entirely disappear. 
Thus the mountain-air , free from substances producing fermen- 
tation or putrefaction, is beyond doubt antiseptic in its effects. 

The Warmth of the atmosphere is in inverse ratio to the height. 
Among the Alps the average fall in temperature is, on the N. side 
about 0.9° Fahr., and on the S. side about 1.2°Fahr., for every 
330' of ascent. The mean temperature of the three months of sum- 
mer is 67.4° F. in Vienna, 65.3° in Berlin, and 64.6° in Dresden; 
among the Alps it is, e.g., only 57.4° at Gais, 67° at Beatenberg, 
56.8° at Churwalden, 56.5° atEngelberg, 50.9° at Sils-Maria, 50.2° 
at Arosa, and 48.2° on the Rigi-Kulm. 

The Decrease of Atmospheric Pressure as we ascend is impor- 
tant. The barometer, indicating a pressure of 30 in. at the sea- 
level, falls to 28 in. at 1640', to 26i/ 2 in. at 3280', and to 243/ 4 in. at 
4920'. Anyone who mounts rapidly from the valleys by a mountain- 
railway {e.g. to the Rigi or to Davos) must be conscious of a distinct 
diminution of pressure. At the same time the greater intensity of 
the sun's rays is immediately felt on the higher levels, where 'sun- 
burning' takes place much more rapidly than in the warmer valleys. 

The Moisture in the air is by no means constant at high levels, 
but evaporation is much more copious than in the plains. This is 
especially obvious in the Orisons ; fresh meat exposed to the dry, 
pure, cold air of that region dries up without putrefying. 

b* 



xx V. CLIMATE. 

The increased frequency of Rain is a disagreeable characteristic 
of the mountain-regions. The tendency towards rain, and at the 
height of summer to thunder-storms, is especially noticeable in the 
afternoon. 

The crest of the Alps acts as a huge dividing-wall between the 
Polar and the Equatorial Winds, the latter of which frequently 
deposit their moisture in the form of rainfall on the S. side of the 
mountain-range. The best-known wind is the Fbhn, a warm S. 
wind that blows with great impetuosity in E. Switzerland and the 
upper valleys of the Rhine, Linth, Reuss, and Rhone, and is fre- 
quently followed by sudden and heavy rain. On its approach the 
atmosphere appears thick and the mountains are enveloped in haze, 
though sometimes, on the contrary, they stand out with unusual 
distinctness. The barometer rapidly falls, while the thermometer 
rises; man and beast feel languid; and finally a storm bursts that 
is sometimes not without danger to the incautious. The Fiihn is 
reckoned to blow for 17 days in spring, 5 days in summer, and 
16 days in autumn. The cold N. wind, known as the Bise, which 
blows in the direction of Geneva, between the Bernese Oberland 
and the Jura, is little noticeable in summer. Mention must be 
made of the numerous local winds that prevail at the higher levels 
and are of importance to invalids; e.g. the uniform morning-wind, 
blowing down-hill, in regular alternation with the evening-wind, 
blowing up-hill. 

The higher inhabited regions of Switzerland may be divided 
into three zones. The lowest of these, the Hill Region, between 
1300' and 2600' above the sea-level, embraces the banks of the 
lakes in N.E. and Central Switzerland and the adjacent mountain- 
slopes, on which the walnut-tree and chestnut flourish in full 
luxuriance. At the height of summer this region is often too hot, but 
a pleasant refreshment is afforded by the lake-baths. The warmest 
of the lakes is the Lake of Constance (68-75° Fahr.). The second, 
or Mountain Region, extends from 2600' to 3900'. Within its limits 
are numerous towns and villages, while deciduous and coniferous 
trees flourish. Within the third, or Alpine Region (3900' to 6550'), 
only coniferous trees are found, and these but to a limited extent. 
The mountain-climate, with its characteristically cold and rarifled 
atmosphere, reigns supreme. Numerous admirable resorts, rendered 
accessible even for the weak and delicate by means of mountain 
railways and diligences, are to be found on the mountains and in 
the elevated valleys of this region. 

The most important climatic consideration in judging of a health- 
resort is its Height above the sea-level, though occasionally other 
factors demand attention. Part of S. Switzerland, more especially 
the N. banks of the lakes of Geneva and Lugano, has a warm, N. 
Italian climate, in consequence of its admirable protection from the 
N. wind , its low elevation above the sea-level , and the exposure 



V. CLIMATE. xxi 

to an unusually powerful sun ; so that the pleasantest seasons foT a 
visit are spring and autumn , when the whey-cure and grape-cure 
are in full swing. In summer, visitors in search of health are glad 
to retreat to a station one stage higher. 

In comparison with the adjacent countries, Switzerland possesses 
few forests; and the Swiss forests have little effect in increasing the 
atmospheric moisture or in moderating the extremes of temperature. 
In these respects the large expanses of water in N. and Central 
Switzerland are of more importance. The Canton of Appenzell, the 
original home of the whey-cure, occupies a somewhat peculiar posi- 
tion ; for its extensive grassy slopes and pastures operate very much 
as forests do elsewhere, and produce a moist and warm climate in 
summer. 

Among the invalids who derive advantage from frequenting the 
elevated health-resorts of Switzerland, those subject to Pulmonary 
and Nervous Ailments are by far the most numerous. For pul- 
monary and rheumatic patients and for all unable to stand strong 
currents of air , protection from the wind is essential ; and that, 
though frequently found in Alpine valleys, is scarcely to be looked 
for on isolated mountains. The shores of the Lake of Geneva or the 
health-resorts in Appenzell are recommended to sufferers from dry 
catarrh. In cases in which inflammatory conditions of the respirat- 
ory organs are accompanied by continued night-sweats, the patients, 
if free of fever, will find it advantageous to ascend to higher levels 
where the evaporating power of the dry climate encourages the ab- 
sorption of the cutaneous excretions. Invalids suffering from chronic 
catarrh accompanied by Emphysema must not be rash, but must 
content themselves with heights averaging from 2600' to 3900'. 
Those with weak hearts, palpitations, and so forth must, of course, 
avoid ascents altogether. The elevated valleys of Davos and Arosa 
are those most frequented for Phthisis. The best time to visit them 
is winter, when, after the season's snow has fallen, they are free 
fr om both dust and wind. 

In the case of Nervous Patients, with irritable conditions of their 
organs, the climate is not the sole factor to be considered in the 
choice of a health-resort. The general social conditions also demand 
careful attention. Neurasthenics may be driven frantic by brass 
bands, by the rattle of the nine-pin alley, or by other noisy amuse- 
ments j and the effect of the grandest Alpine air may in this manner 
be frustrated. Convalescents, in a state of prostration after an acute 
illness, and those suffering the penalties of excessive Mental Strain, 
often, if the remedy is not too heroic for them , regain their tone 
and strength with marvellous rapidity by a residence of some weeks 
at a height of 5000-6000'. For other patients a medium height of 
3000-4000' is sufficient, and there is no lack of admirable resorts 
at this elevation. Neuralgic Patients, who suffer from sciatica or tic- 
douloureux, often become worse instead of better in dry and breezy 



xxii V. HEALTH RESORTS. 

situations, and should prefer some sheltered resort by the seaside 
or in an Alpine valley not too high up. The same remark applies 
to sufferers from Insomnia, who, moreover, should pay careful 
attention to the quietness not only of the resort in general but of 
their selected hotel in particular. 

Among the Swiss Hydropathic Establishments of a more than 
native vogue the following may be mentioned: Mammern (1335'), 
Champel-sur-Arve (1405'), Divonne (1543'), Brestenberg (1668'), 
Affoltern (1640'), Buchenthal (1673'), Albisbrunn (2115'), Schon- 
brimn (2215'), Schoneck (2250'), Giessbach (2360'), and Zuoz 
(5615'). 

Height in Height above Sea Level of Swiss Health Resorts. 

Engl. Feet. 

600'. Lago Maggiore (Pallanza, Stresa, Baveno, Locarno) 636'; Lake of 
Como (Be)lagio, Cadenabbia, Menaggio) 700'; Lugano 905'. 

1200'. Lake of Geneva (Montreux, Vevey, etc.) 1220'; Lake of Constance 
(Rorschach, Horn, Arbon) 1305'; Lake of Zurich (Horgen, Wadens- 
wil, etc.) 1340'; Aigle 1375'; Lake of Zug (Zug, Immensee, Walchwil) 
1385'; Walensee (Walenstadt, Murg, Muhlehorn, Weesen) 1385'; 
Bienenberg 1415'; Bignasco 1424'; Bex 1427'; Lake of Lucerne 
(Lucerne, Hinter-Meggen, Hertenstein, Weggis, Vilznau, Gersau, 
Brunnen, Tell's Platte, Beekenried, Buochs) 1435'; Neuhausen 
1413'. 

1500'. Stans 15C0'; Muri 1590'; Bad Schauenburg 1590'; Wolfsberg 1690'; 
Wolfen8chiessenl700'; Amsteg 1710'; Lake of Thun (Thun, Ober- 
hofen, Gunten, Spiez) 1840'; Bonigen 1856'; Interlaken 1863'; 
Quarten 1760'; Wilderswil 1925' ; Chexbres 1910'; Meiringen 1968'; 
Glion 1970'. 

2000'. Hotel Dolder 2050'; Waid 2065'; Axenfels , Morschach 2120'; 
Stachelberg 2178'; Fridau 2180'; Walzenhausen 2225'; Mornex 
2230' ; Feusisberg 2233' ; Obstalden 2237' ; Schoneck 2250' ; Faulen- 
seebad 2265' ; Evilard 2312'; Filzbach 2335' ; Munnetier 2336'; Wolf- 
halden 2350'; . Q onnenberg (near Lucerne) 2350'; Langenbruck 2350'; 
Srhorreck 2350'; Giessbach , Rieden, AxenBtein 2360'; Ageri-See 
2378'; Gimel 2395'; Riittihubelbad 2414'; Hiitten 242V; Thusis 
2445'; Fliihli-Ranft2450'; Fleurier 2455' ; Farnbuhlbad 2460 1 ; War- 
tenatein 24* ; Lungern 2486'; Faido 2475' 

250O\ Emmeten 2550'; Appenzell 25W; Lauterbrnnnen 2615'; Sigriswil 
2620'; Heiden2640'; Vorauen 2640' ; Grab 2643'; St. Gervais 26-0'; 
Weissbad 2635'; Waldstatt 2700'; Frohbnrg 2103'; Schwarzenberg 
2760'; Seel isberg 2770'; Herrgottswald 2800'; Zimmerwald 2815'; 
Acschi 2818'; Uetliberg 2825'; Ballargues 2855'; Biirgenstnck 2?55'; 
Charmev 2SH3'; Fluhli (Entlebuch) 2930'; Melchthal 2932' ; Mac- 
olin 2960'; Gontcn 2970'; Tro^en 2975'; Seewis 2985'. 

3000'. Ro«siniere< 3025'; Salvan 3035'-, Corbevricr 304V; Schonfels 3065'; 
Gais 3075'; Felsenegj; 3036'; Weissen'fluh 3100'; Lanzn dlntelvi 
3105'; Vattis3120'; Chateau-d'Oex 3150'; Les Avants 3i88'; Zwei- 
simmen 3215'; Elm 321 V ; JlareioUe 358'J'; Ober-Balmberg 3280'; 
Brunig 32)5'; Weisstannen 3300' ; Menzberg 3314'; Engelborg 3340'; 
Unterschachen 3345'; Eigenthal 3380'; Chamonix 3415'; Crindel- 
wald 3415'; St. Cergues 3432'; Hasleherg 3443'; ChampiVy 3450'. 

3jU0'. l.enk 3527'; Richisau 3540'; Sax L -len 3.00'; Hoh'l de faux 3610'; 
Ste. Croix 3635'; Waldhaus Flims 370U'; Abendberg :,735'; Airolo 
375V; Ui-ient.is 3765'; Gr.von 3770'; St. Beatenberg 3775'; Gott- 
shalkenberg 3780'; Niciier-Rickenbach 37^0'; Girrnigel Bad 3"<00': 
i»rui(mt-I)esi»8 3815'; Siiivnb'Tg 3s^0' ; Kandersteg 3835'; Chau- 
niniit 3815'; Alagna 3905'; Kloslers 3940'; Il'itel Geneioso 3'J60'; 
Chc.-iirea 3970'; Cliurwalden 3976'; Schuls 3980'. 



VI. WALKING TOTJKS. xxiii 

Height in 
Engl. Feet. 

4000'. Vissoye 4006' ; Courmayeur 4015': Finhaut 406')'; Vals-Platz 4095' ; 

Grimmi Alp 4110'; Vulpera 4160'; Villars 4165'; Wengen 4190'; 

Weissenstein 4220'; Stoos 4242'; Mayens de Sion 4267'; Rigi- 

Klosterli 4320' ; Meien4330'; Macugnaga4343'; Rosenlauibad 4363'; 

Maderaner-Thal 4422'; La Comballaz 4J30'; Adelboden 4450'. 
4500'. Evolena 4520'; Urnerboden 4527'; Gressoney 45)5'; Bergun 4550'; 

Gimmelwald 4550'; Morgins 4630'-, Schimberg Bad 4680'; Leysin 

4690'; Binn 4720'; Bigi-Kaltbad 4730'; Audermatt 4738'; Wiesen 

4770'; Lenzerheide 4775'; Voirons 4775'; Kigi-First 4795'; Lac 

Champex 4820' ; Hospenthal 4870'; Fionney 4910'; Parpan 4957'; 

Axalp 49S6'. 
5000'. Berisal 5007'; Montana 5085'; Davos 5115'; Grimentz 5115'; Saas- 

im-Grund 5125' ; Hotel Pierre-a- Voir 5250' ; Rigi-Staffel 5270'; Zer- 

matt 5315; San Bernardino 5335'; Miirren 5385'; St. Luc 5390'; 

Rigi-Scheideck 5412'; Guarda 5113'. 
5500'. Zinal 5505'; Zuoz 5615'; Seewen-Alp 5640'; Samaden 5670'; Arosa 

5900'; Saas-Fee 5900'; Meiden 5900'; Pontresina 5940'; Maloia5943'; 

Sils 5944'; Silvaplana 595S'. 
6000'. Hotel Piora 6000'; Eng.'tlen-Alp 6033'; St. Moritz 6033'; Melchsee- 

Frutt 6165'; Riederalp 6315' ; Chandolin 6340'; Cresta-Avers 635?'. 
6500'. Arolla 6570'; Oberalpsee 6654'; St. Gotthard 6870'. 
7000'. Beialp 7110'; Eggishorn 7195'; Riffel Alp 7307',- Hotel Weisshorn 

7694'. 



VI. Walking Tours. 

In a mountainous country like Switzerland it is to pedestrians 
alone that many of the finest points are accessible, and even where 
driving or riding is practicable, walking is often more enjoyable. 

Disposition of Time. The first golden rule for the walker is to 
start early. If strength permits, and a suitable halting-place is to 
be met with, a walk of one or two hours may be accomplished be- 
fore breakfast. At noon a moderate luncheon is preferable to a table- 
d'hote dinner. Kest should be taken during the hottest hours (12-3), 
and the journey then continued till 5 or 6 p.m., when a sub- 
stantial meal (evening table-d'h6te at the principal hotels) may be 
partaken of. 

Equipment. A superabundance of luggage infallibly increases 
the delays, annoyances , and expenses of travel. To be provided 
with enough and no more, may be considered the second golden 
rule for the traveller. A light 'gibeciere' or game-bag, which is 
far less irksome to carry than a knapsack, suffices to contain all that 
is necessary for a week's excursion. A change of flannel shirts and 
worsted stockings , a few pocket-handkerchiefs , a pair of slippers, 
and the 'objets de toilette' may, with a little practice, be carried 
with hardly a perceptible increase of fatigue. A pocket-knife with a 
corkscrew, a leathern drinking-cup, a spirit-flask, stout gloves, and a 
piece of green crape or coloured spectacles to protect the eyes from 
the glare of the snow, should not be forgotten. Useful, though less 
indispensable, are an opera-glass or small telescope, sewing materials, 
a supply of strong cord, sticking plaster, a small compass, a pocket- 
lantern, a thermometer, and an aneroid barometer. Special attention 



xxiv VI. WALKING TOURS. 

should be paid to the bootB, -which must be strong, well-tried, and 
thoroughly comfortable, as the slightest tendency to rub or blister 
may seriously mar the enjoyment of the walk. For glacier-tours 
and mountain-ascents the soles must be supplied with nails, which, 
however, may be added on reaching the mountainous district. The 
traveller's reserve of clothing should be contained in a portmanteau 
of moderate size, which he can easily wield himself when necessary, 
and which may be forwarded from town to town by post. 

The mountaineer should have a well-tried Alpenstock of seasoned 
ash , 5-6' long, Bhod with a steel point, and strong enough, when 
placed horizontally, with the ends supported, to bear the whole 
weight of the body. For the more difficult ascents an Ice- Axe and 
Rope are also necessary ; the former may usually be borrowed at the 
hotel and the latter is generally furnished by the guide. The best 
ropes, light and strong, are made of silk or Manilla hemp. In cross- 
ing a glacier the precaution of using the rope should never be ne- 
glected. It should be securely tied round the waist of each member 
of the party, leaving a length of about 10' between each pair. Ice- 
axes are made in various forms, and are usually furnished with a 
spike at the end of the handle, so that they can in some measure be 
used like an Alpenstock. 

General Hints. The traveller's ambition often exceeds his 
powers of endurance, and if his strength be once overtaxed he will 
sometimes be incapacitated altogether for several days. At the 
outset, therefore, the walker's performances should be moderate ; 
and even when he is in good training , they should rarely exceed 
10 hrs. a day. When a mountain has to be breasted, the pedes- 
trian should avoid 'spurts', and pursue the 'even tenor of his way' 
at a steady and moderate pace ( l chi va piano va sano ; chi va sano 
va lontano 1 ). As another golden maxim for his guidance, the travel- 
ler should remember that — 'When fatigue begins, enjoyment ceases'. 

To prevent the feet from blistering during a protracted walking 
tour, they may be rubbed morning and evening with brandy and 
tallow. A warm foot-bath with bran will be found soothing after a 
long day's march. Soaping the inside of the stocking is another well- 
known safeguard against abrasion of the skin. 

Mountaineering among the higher Alps should not be attempted 
before the middle or end of July, nor at any period after a long 
continuance of rain or snow. Glaciers should be traversed as early 
in the morning as possible, before the sun softens the crust of ice 
formed during the night over the crevasses. Experienced guides 
are indispensable for such excursions. 

The traveller is cautioned against sleeping in chalets, unless ab- 
solutely necessary. Whatever poetry there may be theoretically in 
'a fragrant bed of hay', the cold night-air piercing abundant aper- 
tures, the ringing of the cow-bells, the grunting of the pigs, and 
the undiscarded garments, hardly conduce to refreshing slumber. 



VI. WALKING TOURS. xxv 

As a rule, therefore, the night previous to a mountain-expedition 
should be spent either at an inn or at one of the club-huts which 
the Swiss, German, and Italian Alpine Clubs have recently erected 
for the convenience of travellers. 

Mountaineers should provide themselves with fresh meat, bread, 
and wine or spirits for long expeditions. The chalets usually afford 
nothing but Alpine fare (milk, cheese, and stale bread). Glacier- 
water should not be drunk except in small quantities, mixed with 
wine or cognac. Gold milk is also safer when qualified with spirits. 
One of the best beverages for quenching the thirst is cold tea. 

Over all the movements of the pedestrian the weather holds 
despotic sway. The barometer and weather-wise natives should be 
consulted when an opportunity offers. The blowing down of the 
wind from the mountains into the valleys in the evening, the melt- 
ing away of the clouds, the fall of fresh snow on the mountains, 
and the ascent of the cattle to the higher parts of their pasture are 
all signs of fine weather. On the other hand it is a bad sign if the 
distant mountains are dark blue in colour and very distinct in out- 
line, if the wind blows up the mountains , and if the dust rises in 
eddies on the roads. West winds also usually bring rain. 

Health. Tincture of arnica is a good remedy for bruises, and more- 
over has a bracing and invigorating effect if rubbed on the limbs after 
much fatigue; but it should never be applied to broken skin, as it is apt 
to produce erysipelas. Saturnine ointment or oxide of zinc ointment is 
beneficial in cases of inflammation of the skin, an inconvenience frequently 
caused by exposure to the glare of the sun on the snow. Cold cream, 
and, for the lips especially, vaseline or glycerine, are also recommended. 

For diarrhoea 15 drops of a mixture of equal parts of tincture of 
opium and aromatic tincture may be safely laken every two hours until 
relief is afforded. The homoeopathic tincture of camphor (5 drops on 
a lump of sugar every half-hour or so) is also a good remedy. The 
homoeopathic camphor-globules are convenient, but are more apt to lose 
their strength. 

VII. Cycling Tours. 

The cyclist goes to Switzerland for the scenery and for nothing 
else , and the distinctive part of Swiss scenery lies in its moun- 
tains; hence cycling in Switzerland means riding on mountain- 
roads. Switzerland is, therefore, a country to ride through on one's 
way to somewhere else, rather than one in which to settle down 
and make short excursions from fixed centres. That can be done 
on the plain, or on the shores of the Lake of Geneva, or by the Lake 
of Lucerne, but the ambitious rider aspires to the mountains. 

The machine taken should be adapted to mountain work. It 
should be well-tried and trusted rather than new. It should be 
fitted with strong brakes, rim brakes for preference, one on each 
wheel. The tyres should be new and of good material, and before 
the journey is undertaken the machine should be thoroughly over- 
hauled by a competent repairer, so that the cyclist may have rea- 
sonable assurance that there is no hidden flaw in any part. The 



xxvi VII. CYCLING TOUBS. 

gear should be low (under 60 inches). There are few satisfactory 
repairers to he met with outside the larger towns, and the rider 
should consequently take with him the articles most likely to be 
required for a summary repair, and should, in addition, be suf- 
ficiently skilful to remedy the more common accidents to machines. 
If he is not, he would do well to ride in the company of some one 
who is. 

No one who is not fairly strong and in good condition should 
attempt the Swiss passes. Long stretches of country have to be 
covered at a time, and there is usually a vast amount of walking 
and pushing one's machine to be gone through. Some of this may 
occasionally be avoided by hiring boys to do the pushing, but even 
then the amount of walking is apt to be fatiguing to any but a hardy 
pedestrian. At one time it was a simple matter for the tired cyclist 
to hoist his machine on to a passing diligence and himself take a 
seat in the vehicle, but postal diligences are no longer allowed to 
carry unpacked cycles. German and French cyclists sometimes hire 
a horse to walk up a steep road, and tie their machines one after 
the other to a long rope, the end of which is fastened to the animal's 
traces. They are thus enabled to sit their machines on the way 
up, but must of course be ready to put foot to earth every time the 
horse stops. English cyclists usually prefer to plod on foot; hence 
the necessity for good condition. 

All-wool underclothing is essential on account of the frequent 
and sudden changes of temperature. Boots are preferable to low 
shoes, as the dust consists of hard particles which work their way 
through socks and penetrate between the toes, where they are apt 
to cause inflammation and render riding extremely painful. The 
same hard granitic dust is very trying to pneumatic tyres. 

The question of drinks is an important one. "Water from moun- 
tain rivulets should not be taken, as, though limpid and fresh, it 
springs from glaciers and if the rider is perspiring freely the result 
may be colic. Beer is not good to ride on as it induces lassitude. 
Milk is perhaps the safest drink, or wine diluted with water. 

The journey should be carefully planned beforehand, especial 
study being given to the matter of gradients. There is a right way 
and a wrong way of riding most mountain-passes. For instance the 
Tete-Noire should be taken from Chamonix to Martigny, and the 
Simplon from Brigue to Domodossola. The cyclist should begin at 
the steeper side, where the walk up is comparatively short, and 
ride down the gentler slope ; he thus secures short walks and long 
'coasts'. Going in the opposite direction, he would have long, 
tiring walks up, and would be obliged to walk down the other side 
as well, as it would be too steep for riding. Then, again, river 
valleys should as far as possible be taken in the direction of the 
stream. Good cycling maps, preferably those showing gradients, 
arc therefore necessary to plan an intelligent tour. 



VII. CYCLING TOURS. xxvii 

The mountain-roads are as a rule open from June to September 
inclusively, though that of course depends on the melting of the 
snow and the time that must ensue to bring the roads into good 
dry condition. Information must be sought locally as to the state 
of the roads at any particular time, but it is usually safest, early 
and late in the season, to cross the Alps by the St. Gotthard route, 
as, in case the road is found to be impracticable, we can take the 
train. The best time for the passes is July and early August : in 
mid-August road-mending begins. Swiss roads vary in condition 
more than those of any other country, largely owing to the action of 
frost and snow; hence the diametrically opposite reports with 
regard to the condition of certain roads. On the whole it may be 
said that they have been well constructed and are indifferently 
maintained. There is no uniform law with regard to cycling 
throughout Switzerland. The matter is left in the hands of the 
cantonal authorities, and the result is sometimes bewildering to the 
cyclist who passes through several cantons. Certain rules are, 
however, generally adopted, such as that every machine must have 
a lamp and a bell. In the Canton of Geneva a continuously ringing 
bell, like a sheep bell, is prescribed. Number-plates, procurable 
at the Hotels de Ville, must be affixed to the wheel before it can 
be used in Geneva, Bale, and some other large towns. In the Can- 
ton of Valais a cyclist is compelled to dismount on meeting a restive 
horse, and, if called upon to do so by the horseman, to hide his 
machine. The old practice of tying a young tree behind one's ma- 
chine to check the velocity of the cycle in its downward course has 
been forbidden in most mountain cantons, and with good reason, 
for it raised a cloud of dust that was a nuisance to other travellers, 
and the swishing, leaping tree often frightened horses. A rider 
should trust his brake and keep it on when descending. The machine 
should always be kept under perfect control, so that one may at 
any time be able to jump from it without discomfort. The roads are 
narrow and often border on precipices, while drivers of diligences 
usually take the inside, leaving the edge of the precipice to the 
cyclist. 

The cost of living will, of course, vary with the requirements 
of different riders, but the cyclist of frugal habits may travel on 
12 fr. or 10s. per day. It is apt to prove expensive to sit down at a 
table in front of a large mountain hotel and call for a casual drink. 

The customs duty on cycles is 70 francs per 100 kilogrammes. 
The amount must be deposited on entering the country, when the 
machine is marked with a leaden seal and a laissez-passer is hand- 
ed to its owner, who is thereby authorised to keep his machine a 
certain time in the country. When he leaves Switzerland his 
deposit will be returned on his presenting his machine for identi- 
fication (with the lead in position) and the laissex-passer. If he 
loses the paper or the lead, or exceeds his time, the money is 



xxviii VIII. MAPS. 

forfeited. Many cyclists leave the country by train and lose their 
deposits because the train does not stop sufficiently long on the 
Swiss side of the frontier to allow of the money being recovered. 

For the above and many other reasons the wheelman would do 
well to join the Cyclists' Touring Club before undertaking the 
journey. The address of this club is 47, Victoria Street, London, 
S.W., and its subscription is 5s. yearly. The club issues a ticket 
which admits its members' machines into Switzerland without de- 
posit. It also publishes a Road Book (Vol. Ill) which carefully 
describes the cycling qualities of every important road in the 
country. It has concluded agreements with a host of hotel-keepers 
wheTeby reduced terms and discounts are secured for its members. 
It supplies good maps for the cyclist and helps intending riders with 
useful information and advice. — Cyclists who mean to stay any 
time in the country should join the Touring Club Suisse (Boulevard 
du Theatre 9, Geneva; annual subscription 5 fr.). 

The English Railway Companies carry cycles to Switzerland at 
ordinary luggage rates (56 lbs. being allowed free) plus a special 
fee of 5s. for each machine. On Swiss railways cycles are treated 
as luggage. There is no free allowance, and the rate for carriage 
is 6 centimes per 100 kilogrammes per kilometre. Swiss railway 
porters have the reputation of treating cycles less tenderly than 
those of other Continental countries. As a general rule, a machine 
that is sent on unaccompanied should be packed in a crate. When 
it is accompanied by the owner, all that is required is to swathe the 
frame and bright parts in cloth to protect them from corrosion by 
the sea-air. Packed cycles pay more for carriage and for duty, as 
both are calculated on the weight. 

Among the best CrcLiNG Maps for Switzerland are those published by 
Kiimmerly <fc Frey of Bern on a scale of 1 : 500,000, with profiles of the roads 
on the back (price 3 fr., mounted on linen); MittelbacWi Iioad-Prolile Map 
of Switzerland (1:600,000; mounted 1 Jl); Milllliaupfs Cycling Map of 
Switzerland (1:445,000; mounted, 3>/2fr.) and Map of S.W. Switzerland and 
Savoy (1:300,000; mounted, 3V2 fr.); and the large Carte lioutiere of the 
Siriss Touring Club, based on the Generalkarte mentioned on p. xxix 
(1:2)0,000; four sheets at 5 fr., mounted 6V2 fr.). 

VIII. Maps. 

1. Maps on a Large Scale : — 

*Topographisch(r Atlas der Schweiz, on the scale of the original 
drawings (flat districts 1 : 25,000, mountains 1 : 50,000), published 
by the Federal Staff Office under the superintendence of Col. Sieg- 
fried and known as the 'Siegfried Atlas'. The conformation of the 
ground is indicated by contour-lines at intervals of 10 and 30 metres. 
Price, 1 fr. per sheet; four sheets in one, lithographed, 2fr., mounted 
3 fr. 30 c. Some of the more important districts are published in a 
special edition, in which the system of contour-lines is combined 
with graduated colouring (price 5 fr., mounted 6 fr. 30 a). 



IX. GUIDES. xxix 

The four-sheet lithographs include Zurich and environs, Bern and 
environs, Thun and environs, "Thun with the Stockhorn and Niesen dis- 
trict, Stockhorn chain and Jaun-Thun, "Bernese Oberland I and II, Thun- 
Interlaken, Brienz - Guttannen , Jungfrau and Upper Valais, Gemmi and 
Bliimlisalp, Evolena-Zermatt-Mte-Rosa, "Upper Engadine, -Albula district, 
and the *St. Gotthard. 

Older than the above is the Topographische Katie der Schweiz, 
also from surveys made by order of the Federal authorities (under 
the superintendence of General Dufour) ; scale 1 : 100,000; 25 sheets, 
each 1 to 2fr. (unmounted). 

For Chamonix, Imfeld fy Barley's Map of the 'Chaine du Mont- 
blanc' (1 : 50,000), and Mieulet's 'Massif du Montblanc' (1 : 40,000). 

2. Maps on a Smaller Scale : — 

Generalkarte der Schweiz (1:250,000), reduced from Dufour' s 
Map; four sheets at 2 fr., mounted 3 ft. 30 c. 

Leuzinger's Neue Karte der Schweiz (1 : 400,000) ; mounted 6 fr. 

Leuzinger's Beise-Beliefkarte der Schweiz (1:530,000); mount- 
ed on linen 3 l /2 fr. 

Distanzenkarte der Schweiz in Marschstunden (1 : 500,000) ; 
mounted on linen 3 fr. 

Kummerlffs Distanzenkarte des Berner Oberlandes in Marsch- 
stunden (1 : 300,000) ; 3 fr., mounted 4 fr. 50 c. 

The Alpine Club Map of Switzerland , published by B. C. Ni- 
chols (1 : 250,000); four sheets, 42s. 

IX. Guides. 

On well-trodden routes like those of the Rigi, Pilatus, Wen- 
gern-Alp, Faulhorn, Scheidegg, Grimsel, Gemmi, etc., the services 
of a guide are unnecessary in good weather; the maps and directions 
of the Handbook will be found entirely sufficient. The traveller 
may engage the first urchin he meets to carry his bag or knapsack 
for a trifling gratuity. Guides are, however, indispensable for expedi- 
tions among the higher mountains, especially on those which involve 
the passage of glaciers. The novice alone undervalues their services 
and forgets that snow-storms or mist may at any moment change 
security to danger. As a class, the Swiss guides will be found to be 
intelligent and respectable men, well versed in their duties, and 
acquainted with the people and resources of the country. 

The great stations for guides are Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, 
Grindelwald, Meiringen, Martigny, Chamonix, Courmayeur, Zer- 
matt , and Pontresina , while for the principal passes guides are 
always to be found at the neighbouring villages. The charges for 
guides and porters are fixed by the Guides' Tariff issued by the 
Central Committee of the Swiss Alpine Club. This consists of three 
sections: 1. Yalaisian and Vaudois Alps; 2. Bernese Oberland; 
3. Alps of Central and E. Switzerland. The following extracts from 
this tariff should be noted. 



xxx X. CARRIAGES AND HORSES. 

The guide is bound to show the tourist Ms book both at the 
beginning and end of an expedition. Even when he has served as 
porter only, he must ask the traveller for a testimonial. The guide 
must also ascertain that the tourist is properly equipped for the 
proposed expedition. If the tourist persists in attempting an ex- 
pedition against the guide's wish and advice, or if he ill-treats the 
guide, the latter is entitled to refuse to serve him. In this case the 
guide is bound to inform the Sectional President without delay. 

In ordinary inns and in occupied club-huts the guide provides 
his own board ; in the mountaineering district proper the employer 
has to furnish him with food. In an engagement lasting for several 
days the terms are fixed by mutual consent. In this case guides 
usually receive 8-12 fr. a day and porters 6-8 fr., according to the 
season and the nature of the expedition, and even more when dif- 
ficult ascents are included. The guide is bound to carry 7 kilo- 
grammes (15 lbs.) of luggage in addition to the necessary rope , the 
porter carries 15 kilogrammes (33 lbs.). For each kilogramme ad- 
ditional the charge is 20 c. per 'hour of march'; but the guide may 
decline to carry more than 10 kil. (22 lbs.) in all, and the porter 
more than 20 kil. (44 lbs.). In tours of special difficulty the guide 
is entitled to refuse to carry any baggage, but he must give his 
employer due notice of this beforehand. 

When carriages are used the employer pays the whole fare. If 
an expedition for which a guide has been engaged is given up for 
any reason other than bad weather, the guide or porter is entitled 
to half the fee. If the guide or porter is dismissed at a distance 
from home, he is entitled to 6 fr. a day for the return-journey ; but 
he is bound to return by the shortest practicable route. 

X. Carriages and Horses. 

Carriages. The ordinary charge for a carriage with one horse 
is 15-20 fr., with two horses 25-30 fr. per day; the driver ex- 
pects 10 per cent of the fare as a gratuity. In the height of sum- 
mer the charges are slightly increased. In most cases there is now 
an official tariff, which also fixes the amount to be paid as the return- 
fare to the place where the driver was engaged. When this is not 
fixed, the driver is entitled to claim the full rate for his return- 
journey by the shortest route, a day being reckoned as 12 hrs.' driving. 
On the most frequented routes carriages may generally be ordered 
at the hotels, but it is usually more advantageous to deal personally 
with the driver. The carriage and horses should be inspected before 
the conclusion of the bargain. When the bargain is made for a future 
day the driver usually deposits a sum with his employer as earnest- 
money (arrhes, caparra), afterwards to be added to the account. The 
hirer selects the hotels at which the nights are to be passed. Private 
posting, or the system of changing horses, is forbidden by law. 



XI. DILIGENCES. xxxi 

Return-vehicles may sometimes be obtained for 10 to 15 fr. per day, 
but the use of them is in some places prohibited. 

Horses. A horse or mule costs 10-12 fr. per day, and the atten- 
dant expects a gratuity of 1-2 fr. in addition; but in some places, 
as at Chamonix, as much is charged for the attendant as for the 
animal. If he cannot return home with his horse on the same day, 
the following day must be paid for. "Walking, however, is prefer- 
able. A prolonged ascent on horseback is fatiguing, and the de- 
scent of a steep hill is disagreeable. Even ladies may easily ascend 
some of the finest points of view on foot, but if unequal to the 
task they may either ride or engage 'chaises-a-porteurs'. In the 
Bernese Oberland, however, the numerous mountain-railways make 
horses and chaises-a-porteurs alike superfluous. 

XI. Diligences. Post Office. Telegraph. 

Diligences. The Swiss coaching system is well organised. The 
diligences are generally well fitted up, the drivers and guards are 
respectable, and the fares moderate. These vehicles consist of the 
coupe, or first-class compartment in front , with 2-3 seats, the in- 
terieur, or second-class compartment at the back, with 4-6 seats, 
which affords little or no view, and the banquette (used in summer 
only) for 2 passengers on the outside. In some cases there is only 
one outside-seat, which is reserved for the conducteur, or guard, 
but will be ceded by him on payment of the difference between the 
ordinary and the coupe fare. At the most important places, but not 
at all the intermediate stations, the traveller has a right to insist 
on transportation ; and 'Beiwagen', or supplementary carriages, are 
supplied when the diligence is full. When there are many pass- 
engers it is advisable to keep an eye on one's luggage (see below), 
especially at a change of carriage. 

On important routes the coupe is generally engaged several days before- 
hand. This may be done by letter or telegraph, giving the traveller's name, 
and the day and hour of departure. The fare must also be forwarded. 

The coupi or banquette fare is on ordinary routes 20 c. per kilometre 
(about 32 c. per Engl. M.) , on Alpine passes 30 c. per kilom. (about 48 c. 
per Engl. M.); fare in the intirieur or cabriolet 15 or 25 c. per kilometre 
(24 or 40 c. per Engl. M.)- Children of 2-7 years of age pay half-fare. Each 
passenger is allowed 33 lbs. of luggage on ordinary routes, but 22 lbs. only 
on the high Alpine routes. Overweight is charged for at the ordinary 
postal tariff. Small articles may be taken into the carriage, but heavy 
luggage should be booked one hour before starting. The average speed 
of these sedate mail-coaches of Switzerland is about 6 M. per hour on level 
ground, and 4 M. per hour on mountain-routes. 

Extra-Post. This is the term applied to the Swiss system of 
posting, managed by government, private posting being prohibited. 
The charge for each horse is i/. 2 fr. per kilometre (80 c. per M.); 
for a carriage with 2-5 seats 20 c. per kilom. (32 c. per M.), for 
one with 6 seats 25 c. per kilom. (40 c. per M.), for one with 7 or 
more seats 30 c. per kilom. (48 c. per M.). Besides these charges, 



xxxii XI. POST OFFICE. 

a booking-fee of 2-4 fr. must be paid according to the size of the 
carriage. If the same vehicie is required for a journey of several 
stages, double carriage-money is exacted. The postilions are strictly 
forbidden to demand gratuities. Extra-post may be ordered at the 
principal post-offices on the mountain-routes at one hour's notice. 
The fare must be paid in advance. 

Letters of 250 grammes (about 8V2 oz -)> prepaid, to any part of 
Switzerland 10c. ; if within a radius of 10 kilometres, 5c; letters 
of 15 grammes (about y 2 oz.) to all countries in the postal union 
25 c, and 25 c. for each 15 gr. more. Registration-fee for Switzer- 
land 10 c, for other countries 25 c. — Post-cards for Switzerland 
5c, for other countries 10 c. — Printed matter under 60 gr. for 
Switzerland 2 c, for other countries 5 c. — On Sun. the post-offices 
are usually open 10-12 and 6-8 p.m. only. 

Post Office Orders within Switzerland must not exceed 1000 fr. 
for the- larger, and 500 fr. for the smaller towns. The charge for an 
order not exceeding 20 fr. is 15 c, for 100 fr. 20 c. , for each ad- 
ditional 100 fr. 10 c more. Money- orders for foreign countries 
25 c. for every 25 fr. Money-orders , up to 200 fr., may also be 
transmitted by telegraph, at the ordinary money-order rate plus the 
cost of the telegram and a small extra fee. 

Parcel Post. The rate of postage for an inland parcel from any 
post-office in Switzerland to any other is 15 c. for a weight not ex- 
ceeding 500 grammes (li/i lb.); 25 c. from 500 to 2500 gr.; 40 c. 
from 2500 gr. to 5 kilogrammes (11 lb.); 70 c. from 5 to 10 kgr.; 
1 fr. from 10 to 15 kgr.; 1 fr. 50 c. from 15 to 20 kgr. The tariff 
for parcels exceeding 20 kgr. varies according to the distance from 
30 c. to 1 fr. 20 c. for every 5 kgr. Luggage can often be sent by post 
much more cheaply than by other means. 

The Telegraph System of Switzerland is very complete, the 
aggregate length of the wires being at present greater than in any 
other country in proportion to the population. There aTe now 
upwards of 2000 offices ; those in the large towns are open from 
6 or 7 a.m. till 11 or 10 p.m. according to the season. The tariff 
for a telegram within Switzerland is 30 c, together with 2'/2 c - f or 
each word; to Germany 50c. and 10 c for each word; to Eng- 
land 29 c for each word; to France 10 c for each word; to Italy 
10 c. per word for telegrams to the frontier, or 17 c. for greater dis- 
tances ; to Austria 10 0. (Tyrol or Vorarlberg 7 c.) per word; to the 
United States from 1 fr. 50 c. per word. The rates for other foreign 
telegrams may be ascertained at the offices. For telegrams handed 
in at railway-stations an additional charge of 50 c. is made. Tele- 
grams may be handed in at any post-office, from which, if not itself 
a telegraph-office, they are transmitted without delay to the nearest. 
In such cases the fee for the telegram is paid by affixing stamps of 
the requisite value. If in an envelope, the word 'telegram' should 



XII. RAILWAYS. xxxiii 

be added to the address. Telegrams from foreign countries should 
be addressed 'telegraph restante' (instead of 'poste restante'), as in 
this case they may be called for at any time and not merely during 
the official post-office hours. 



XII. Railways. 

The Carriages on most of the Swiss lines are constructed on 
the American plan, holding 32-72 passengers, and furnished at each 
end with steps of easy access. Through each carriage, and indeed 
through the whole train, runs a passage, on each side of which the 
seats are disposed. Tickets are examined and collected in the 
carriages. — In French Switzerland passengers' tickets are checked 
as they leave the waiting-room before starting, and given up at the 
'Sortie 1 on their arrival. 

Luggage must be booked and paid for after the traveller has 
obtained his own ticket, but small portmanteaus and travelling-bags 
may generally be taken into the carriage without objection. Indeed 
the forbearance of the Swiss railway officials in this respect is 
shamefully abused by inconsiderate travellers. Travellers with 
through-tickets from the German to the Swiss railways, or vice versa, 
should see that their luggage is safe on reaching the frontier (Bale, 
Geneva, Neuchatel, Friedrichshafen, Lindau, Rorschach, Romans- 
horn, etc.). Where a frontier has to be crossed, ordinary luggage 
should never be sent by goods-train. Luggage booked through to 
Bern , Lucerne, or Ziirich is examined at the railway-stations of 
these places only. 

The enormous weight of the large trunks and boxes used by some 
travellers causes not only great labour but not infrequently serious and 
even lifelong injury to the railway and hotel porters who have to handle 
them. Heavy articles should be placed in the smaller packages, and only 
the lightest articles in the larger trunks. 

Circular Tickets and return-tickets (available for 3 days ; over 
6 M. for 10 days) are issued at reduced rates on most of the Swiss 
lines, and also by the German and French railways to Switzerland. 
Information regarding them will be found in the time-tables; but they 
are apt to hamper the traveller's movements and to deprive him of the 
independence essential to enjoyment. 

General Tickets. A recent innovation in the Swiss railway ser- 
vice is the so-called Oeneral Season Tickets (' Generalabormements' ) t 
which entitle the holder to travel at will over almost all the Swiss 
railway and steamer lines during a given time. A fortnightly ticket 
of this kind costs 70, 50, or 35 fr. (1st, 2nd, and 3rd class), a 
monthly ticket 110, 75, 65 fr. ; quarterly 270, 190, 135 fr. ; half- 
yearly 420, 295, 210 fr. ; yearly 670, 470, 305 fr. These tickets 
must be ordered at the booking-offices of the chief stations at least 
2 hrs. (at other stations 24 hrs.) in advance ; and the applicant must 

Baedekeb, Switzerland. 18th Edition. c 



xxxiv XIII. HISTORY. 

at the same time furnish an unmounted photograph of himself (carte 

de vi.rtte size). 

A deposit of 5fr., made when the ticket is taken, is returned if the 
ticket be presented at any ticket-office on (at latest) the forenoon of the 
day after its expiry. — These tickets are not available on the Kigi railway, 
the Bernese Oberland railways, the Visp-Zermatt railway, and the Rhsetian 
railway. 

XIII. History. Statistics. 

The limits of this work preclude more than a brief historical sketch of 
the interesting country the traveller is now visiting, whose inhabitants have 
ever been noted for their spirit of freedom and independence. 

Switzerland is believed to have been first peopled by the Rhaeti, who 
were driven from the plains to the mountains by the Belvetii, a Celtic 
tribe. The latter were conquered by the Romans, B. C. 58, and the Rhseti 
were subdued in B. C. 15. The Romans made good military roads over 
the Great St. Bernard (p. 325) to Bale, and over the Julier (p. 422), 
Septimer (p. 421), and Spliigen (p. 414) to Bregenz (p. 461), and thence to 
Bale. The chief settlements were Aventicum (Avenches, p. 242) in the Can- 
ton of Vaud, Vindonissa (p. 23) at the confluence of the Aare, Reuss, and 
Limmat, Augusta Rauracorum (Augst, p. 22) near Bale, and Curia Rhae- 
torum (Coire, p. 382) in the Grisons. E. Switzerland as far as Pfyn (ad 
fines) in Thurgau, and Pfin (p. 333) in the Upper Valais, belonged to the 
province of Rhsetia, while W. Switzerland formed part of Gaul. The name 
Helvetii had become extinct even before the time of Constantine. Under 
the Roman sway Helvetia enjoyed a flourishing trade, which covered the 
land with cities and villages. A trace of that period exists in the Romanic 
dialect, which is still spoken in some parts of Switzerland. 

About A. D. 400 a great irruption of barbarians swept through the 
peaceful valleys of the Alps, and Huns, Burgundians, Alemanni, and 
Ostrogoths in succession settled in different parts of the country. The 
Alemanni occupied the whole of N. Switzerland, where German is now 
spoken ; the Burgundians the W. part, where French is spoken ; and the 
Ostrogoths S. Switzerland, where Italian and Romansch are now spoken. 
These races were gradually subdued by the Franks, who, however, did not 
take possession of the country themselves, but governed it by their officers. 
During this period Christianity was introduced, the monasteries of Disentit 
(p. 406), St. Gallen (p. 58), and Einsiedeln (p. 119) were founded, and dukes 
and counts were appointed as vicegerents of the Frankish kings. 

After the dissolution of the great Frankish empire, the E. half of 
Switzerland, the boundary of which extended from Eglisau over the Albis 
to Lucerne and the Grimsel, was united with the duchy of Alemannia or 
Swabia, and the W. part with the kingdom of Burgundy (912). After the 
downfall of the latter (1032) the German Emperors took possession of the 
country, and governed it by their vicegerents the dukes of Zahringen 
(p. 162), who were perpetually at enmity with the Burgundian nobles and 
therefore favoured the inhabitants of the towns, and were themselves the 
founders of several new towns, such as Freiburg, Bern, and Burgdorf. 

As the power of the emperors declined, and the nobles, spiritual and 
temporal, became more ambitious of independence, and more eager to fill 
their coffers at the expense of their neighbours, the Swiss towns and the 
few country-people who had succeeded in preserving their freedom from 
serfdom were compelled to consult their safety by entering into treaties 
with the feudal lords of the soil. Thus the inhabitants of Zurich placed 
themselves under the protection of the then unimportant Counts of I/aps- 
bvrg, with whom the 'Three Cantons' of Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden 
were also allied. In 1231 and 1240 letters of independence were granted 
by Emperor Frederick II. to Uri and Schwyz, and after Count Rudolph of 
Hapi-burg had become emperor he confirmed the privileges of the former 
in 127), while Schwyz and Unterwalden still continued subject to the 
Hapsburg supremacy. 



XIII. HISTORY. xxxv 

After the emperor's death in 1291 the Forest Cantons formed their 
first league for mutual safety and the protection of their liberty against 
the growing power of the House of Hapsburg. Rudolph's son Albert in 
particular endeavoured to rear the limited rights he enjoyed in these dis- 
tricts into absolute sovereignty, and to incorporate them with his empire. 

The ancient cantons therefore embraced the cause of the rival monarch 
Adolph of Nassau, who confirmed their privileges. Victory, however, 
favoured Albert, who again deprived the cantons of their privileges, but 
does not appear to have treated them with much severity. To this period 
belongs the romantic but unfounded tradition of William Tell, t 

After the assassination of Albert by John of Swabia in 1308, Emperor 
Henry VII., who was also an opponent of the Hapsburgers, conferred a 
charter of independence on the Forest Cantons. The House of Hapsburg 
regarded this as an infringement of their rights, and sent a powerful 
army against these cantons, which after the death of Henry had declared 
their adherence to Lewis the Bavarian, the opponent of Frederick the 
Handsome. This army was destroyed at Morgarlen (p. 93) in 1315. Sub- 
sequent attempts to subject the country to the supremacy of the House of 
Hapsburg were frustrated by the victories of the Swiss at Sempach (p. 21) 
in 1386, at Nafels (p. 77) in 1388, and at the Stoss (p. 65) in 1405. 

In the Burgundian parts of the country too the nobility were jealous 
of the increasing importance of the towns, and therefore attempted to con- 
quer Bern, but were defeated by the citizens at Laupen (p. 238) in 1339. 

In 1354 a confederacy was formed by eight independent districts and 
towns, which soon became powerful enough to assume the offensive, and 
at length actually wrested the hereditary domain of Hapsburg from the 
dukes of Austria, who tried in vain to recover it. 

Even Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, the mightiest prince of his 
time, was defeated by the Swiss at the three battles of Grandson (1476, 
p. 236), Moral (1476, p. 242), and Nancy, while at an earlier period a large 
body of irregular French and other troops, which had been made over to 
Austria by the King of France, sustained a severe check from the con- 
federates at St. Jacob on the Birs (1444, p. 9). 

In the Swabian war (1499) the bravery and unity of the Swiss achieved 
another triumph in the victory of Dornach (p. 10). At that period their 
independence of the emperor was formally recognised, but they continued 
nominally attached to the empire down to 1648. 

The last-named victory formed a fitting termination to a successful 
career of two centuries, the most glorious in the history of Switzerland. 
At the beginning of the 16th century a period of decline set in. The 
enormous booty captured in the Burgundian war had begotten a taste for 
wealth and luxury, the demoralising practice of serving as mercenary 
troops in foreign lands began to prevail, and a foundation was laid for 
the reproachful proverb, 'Pas d'argent, pas de Suisses!' 

The cause of the Reformation under the auspices of Zwingli was 
zealously embraced by a large proportion of the population of Switzerland 
about the beginning of the 16th century; but the bitter jealousies thus 
sown between the Roman Catholic and the Reformed Cantons were 
attended with most disastrous consequences, and in the civil wars which 
ensued bloody battles were fought at Kappel (p. 94) in 1531, at Villmergen 
in 1656, and during the Toggenburg war (p. 71) in 1712. 



t The legend of the national hero of Switzerland, as well as the story 
of the expulsion of the Austrian bailiffs in 1308, is destitute of historical 
foundation. No trace of such a person is to be found in the work of John 
of Winterthur (Vitoduranus , 1349) or that of Conrad Justinger of Bern 
(1420), the earliest Swiss historians. Mention is made of him for the first 
time in the Sarner Chronik of 1470, and the myth was subsequently em- 
bellished by .ffigidius Tschudi of Glarus (d. 1542), and still more by Jo- 
hann von Muller (d. 1809), while Schiller's famous play has finally secured 
to the hero a worldwide celebrity. Similar traditions are met with among 
various northern nations, such as the Danes and Icelanders. 



xxxvi XIII. STATISTICS. 

Traces of unflinching bravery and of a noble spirit of self-sacrifice in 
the cause of conscience are observable in individual instances even at the 
close of the 18th century, as exemplified by the affairs of Rothenthurm 
(p. 120) and Starts (p. 141), but the national vigour was gone. The resist- 
ance of individuals to the invasion of the French republicans proved fruit- 
less, and the Helvetian Republic was founded on the ruins of the ancient 
liberties of the nation. In 1803 Napoleon restored the cantonal system, 
and in accordance with resolutions passed by the Congress of Vienna in 
1815 the constitution was remodelled. The changes introduced in conse- 
quence of the revolution of July, 1830, were unhappily the forerunners of 
the civil war of the Sonderbund, or Separate League, in November, 1847 ; 
but this was of short duration, and on 12th September, 1848, a new 
federal constitution was inaugurated. Since that period the public tran- 
quillity has been undisturbed, and the prosperity and harmony which now 
prevail throughout the country are not unworthy of the glorious traditions 
of the past. 

Two useful books for the visitor to Switzerland are 'The Rise of the 
Swiss Republic' and 'Romance and Teutonic Switzerland 1 , both by W. D. 
McCrackan. 



Area and Population 

according to the census of 1st Dec, 1900. 



Canton 


Sq. 


Confession. 


Totals 


"• Miles 












Prot. 


Rom.Cath. 


Jews 


Sects 




1. Zurich . 


. . 666 


344,206 


81,424 


2,987 


3,387 


430,336 


2. Bern . 


. . 2659,6 


506,837 


81,162 


1,572 


1,736 


587,983 


3. Lucerne 


. . 579,5 


12,426 


134,104 


336 


162 


146,474 


4. Uri . . 


. . 415,, 


764 


18,984 


1 


10 


18,701 


5. Schwpz . 


. . 351,4 


1,872 


53,603 


12 


12 


55,499 


6. Obwalden 


. . 183,4 


253 


15,033 


— 


5 


15,291 


7. JVidwalden 


. . 104, 2 


178 


12,849 





2 


13,088 


8. Olarus , 


. . 266, s 


24,232 


8,006 


3 


56 


32,397 


9. Zuq . . 


. • 92,2 


1,800 


23,368 


16 


43 


25,227 


10. Fribourg 


. . 614,4 


19,137 


108,950 


180 


65 


128,332 


11. Soleure . 


. . 305,8 


31,171 


6st,332 


162 


198 


100,863 


12. Bdte-ville 


. . 13,9 


73,126 


3B987 


1,963 


826 


112,246 


13. Bale-campa 


gne . 163 


5 '61 7 


15,775 


135 


167 


68,451 


14. Schaffhaus 


m . . 113,5 


34,023 


7,241 


27 


335 


41,523 


15. Appenzell ± 


us&er- 












Rhoden 


. . 93,, 


49,741 


5,501 


31 


121 


55,284 


1G. Appenzell 


Tnner- 












Rhoden 


. . 68,7 


830 


12,653 


— 


3 


13,480 


17. St. Q alien 


. . 779,5 


99,219 


150,843 


589 


487 


250,066 


18. Orisons . 


. . 2754,i 


55,371 


49,585 


141 


157 


104,510 


19. Aargau . 


. . 542,i 


114,218 


91,047 


1,010 


481 


206,460 


20. Thurgau 


. . 381,5 


77,195 


35,944 


121 


275 


113,110 


21. Ticino . 


10S8 


2,385 


135,177 


45 


636 


142,719 


22. Vaud . 


. . 1244,5 


244,768 


3S,100 


1,141 


1,041 


279,152 


23. Valais . 


2026,3 


1,684 


112,461 


31 


181 


114980 


24. Neuch&tel 


. . 312 


107,603 


17,778 


1032 


268 


125 804 


25. Geneva . 


. . 107,7 


62,541 


67,228 


1,076 


2,799 


131,674 


Total . . 


. . 15,965 


1,918,197 


1,383,135 


12,551 


13,453 3,313,817 


Census of 18 


88. . — 


1,724,957 


1,190,008 


8,386 


10,706 |2,917,754 


Increase . 


■ • 1 - 


| 193,240 


lb3,127 


4,165 


i 2,747 


| 396,063 



xxx-ra 



XIV. Comparative Tables of Measures. 



"5 
fa 




00 


fa 


a 


en 


tn 
o 

u 








co 
V 






O 


« 






s 


2 




co 


a 






be 


V* 


U 


'3b 


'5> 


o 


o 


*W) 


<o 


u 


o 


<0 


a 


-V 


-« 


c 


a 


s 




a 


o 


<u 


<0 


w 


fa 


a 


a 


W 


« 


W 


W 


< 


X 


a 


<S 


1 


0,30 


l 


3,28 


1 


1,61 


1 


0,62 


1 


0,40 


l 


2,47 


2 


0,61 


2 


6,56 


2 


3.22 


2 


1,24 


2 


0,81 


2 


4,94 


3 


0,91 


3 


9,84 


3 


4,83 


3 


1,86 


3 


1,21 


3 


7,41 


4 


1,22 


4 


13,12 


4 


6,44 


4 


2,48 


4 


1,61 


4 


9,83 


5 


1,52 


6 


16,40 


5 


8,04 


5 


3,10 


5 


2,02 


5 


12,35 


6 


1,83 


6 


19,69 


6 


9,65 


6 


3,73 


6 


2,42 


6 


14,82 


7 


2,13 


7 


22,97 


7 


11,26 


7 


4,35 


7 


2,83 


7 


17,30 


8 


2,U 


8 


26,25 


8 


12,87 


8 


4,97 


8 


3,23 


8 


19,77 


9 


274 


9 


29,53 


9 


14,53 


9 


5,59 


9 


3,63 


9 


22,24 


10 


3,04 


10 


32,81 


10 


16,09 


10 


6.21 


10 


4,04 


10 


24,71 


it 


3,35 


11 


36,09 


U 


17,70 


11 


6,83 


11 


4,44 


11 


27,19 


12 


3,66 


12 


39,37 


12 


19,31 


12 


7,45 


12 


4,85 


12 


29,65 


13 


3,96 


13 


42,65 


13 


20,92 


13 


8,07 


13 


6,25 


13 


32,12 


14 


4,27 


14 


45,93 


14 


22,53 


14 


8,69 


14 


5,66 


14 


34,59 


15 


4,57 


15 


49,21 


15 


24,13 


15 


9,31 


15 


6,06 


15 


37,05 


16 


4,88 


16 


62,49 


16 


25,74 


16 


9,93 


16 


6,46 


16 


39,53 


17 


5,18 


17 


55,78 


17 


27.35 


17 


10,55 


17 


6,87 


17 


42,00 


18 


5,49 


18 


59,06 


18 


28,96 


18 


11,18 


18 


7,27 


18 


44,47 


19 


5,79 


10 


62,34 


19 


30,67 


19 


11,80 


19 


7,67 


19 


46,95 


20 b,10 


20 


65,62 


20 


32,18 


20 


12,42 


20 


8,08 


20 


49,42 



Thermometric Scales. 



3 


A 




3 


'3 

A 







'5 

A 




3 


*5 

A 




a 


a 


CO 

3 


a 


a 

0) 


CO 

3 


a 


a 

0) 


3 


a 


a 

0J 


DO 

3 


3 






p 


u 




3 


u 




3 


h 




a 


A 


CO 


a 


A 


M , 


3 


A 


s 


a 


A 


iS 


*o> 


ei 


O) 


*cj 


C3 


4) 


vi> 


ri 


<u 


'OJ 


(3 


V 


rt 


fa 


Q 


tf 


fa 


O 


tf 


fa 


O 


Ph 


fa 


O 


+30,22 


+100 


+37,78 


+21,78 


+81 


+27,22 


+13,33 


+62 


+16.67 


+4,89 


+43 


+6,11 


29,78 


99 


37,22 


21,33 


80 


26,67 


12,89 


61 


16,11 


4,44 


42 


6,56 


29,33 


98 


36,67 


20,89 


79 


26,11 


12,44 


60 


15,56 


4,00 


41 


5,00 


28,89 


97 


36,11 


20,44 


78 


25,56 


12,00 


59 


15,00 


3,56 


40 


4,44 


28,44 


96 


35,56 


20,00 


77 


25,00 


11,56 


53 


14,44 


3,11 


39 


3,89 


28,00 


95 


35,00 


19,56 


76 


24,44 


11,11 


57 


13,89 


2,67 


38 


3,33 


27,56 


94 


34,44 


19,11 


75 


23,89 


10,67 


56 


13,33 


2,22 


37 


2,78 


27,11 


93 


33,89 


18,67 


74 


23.33 


10,22 


55 


12,78 


1,78 


36 


2,22 


26,67 


92 


33 33 


13,22 


73 


22,78 


9,78 


54 


12,22 


1,33 


35 


1,61 


26,22 


91 


32,73 


17,78 


72 


22,22 


9,33 


53 


11,67 


0,89 


34 


1,11 


25,78 


90 


32,22 


17,33 


71 


21,67 


8,89 


52 


11,11 


0,44 


33 


0,56 


25,33 


89 


31,67 


16,89 


70 


21,11 


8,44 


51 


10,56 


0,00 


32 


0,00 


24,89 


88 


31,11 


16,44 


69 


20,56 


8,00 


50 


10,00 


—0,44 


31 


—0,56 


24,44 


87 


30,56 


16,00 


68 


20,00 


7,56 


49 


9,44 


0,89 


30 


1,11 


24,C0 


86 


30,00 


15,56 


67 


19,44 


7,11 


43 


8,89 


1,33 


29 


1,67 


23,66 


86 


29.44 


15,11 


66 


18,89 


6,67 


47 


8.33 


1,78 


28 


2,22 


23,11 


84 


28,89 


14,67 


65 


18,33 


6,22 


46 


7,78 


2,22 


27 


2,7S 


22,67 


83 


28,33 


14,22 


64 


17,78 


5,78 


46 


7,22 


2,67 


26 


3 33 


22,22 


82 


27,78 


13,78 


63 


17,22 


5,33 


44 


6,67 


3,11 


25 


3,89 



I. NORTHERN SWITZERLAND. 



Comp. the Maps at pp. 12, 32, 34, 48, 62, 78, 80, 98, 230, 386, 402. 



1. Bale 1 3 

From Bale through the Birsig-Thal to Fliihen. Lands- 
kron; Mariastein; Blauen, 10. 

2. From Bale to Bienne and Neuchatel through the Val 
Moutier 10 

From Delemont to Porreutruy, 11. — Ascent of the 
Weissenstein from Moutier. From Bevilard over the 
Montoz to Reuchenette, 12. — The Taubenloch-Schlucht. 
Macolin. Evilard, 13. — From Bienne to Bern via Lyas, 13. 
— Twannberg. Isle of St. Peter. Chasseral. Cerlier, 14. 

3. From Bale to Bienne via Olten and Soleure ... 14 

From Liestal to Waldenburg. Langenbruck. The Scbaf- 
matt. Eptingen. Frohburg, 15. — Neu- Wartburg. 
Lostorf. Fridau, 16. — From Soleure to the Weissen- 
stein, 18. Balmberg. From Soleure to Burgdorf; to 
Lysa, 19. 

4. From Bale to Bern via Aarburg 19 

From Herzogenbuchsee to Soleure. From Burgdorf to 
Langnau ; to Thun, 20. 

5. From Bale to Lucerne via Olten 21 

From Zofingen to Suhr, 21. 

6. From Bale to Zurich via Brugg 22 

From Stein to Coblenz, 22. — Konigsfelden. Vindonissa. 
From Brugg to Wohlen. Gebenstorfer Horn, 23. — Ex- 
cursions from Baden: Burghorn, Baldegg, Hertenstein, 
etc. From Wettingen to Oerlikon, 24. 

7. From Olten to Waldshut via. Aarau and Turgi ... 25 

From Aarau to Muri and Rothkreuz, 25. — Bremgarten. 
From Aarau to Wettingen. The Hapsburg, 26. 

8. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance 2'< 

From Singen to Etzweilen. The Island of Reichenau. 
Steamboat from Schaffhausen to Constance, 29. 

9. The Falls of the Rhine 30 

10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of Constance 32 

The Mainau, 35. 

11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur (Zurich) 35 

From Etzweilen to Schaffhausen, 36. 

12. From Schaffhausen to Zurich 36 

a. Via Eglisau 36. — b. Via, Winterthur 37. 

13. Zurich and its Environs 38 

14. From Zurich to Coire. Lakes of Zurich andWalenstadt 47 

a. N.E. Railway from Zurich to Meilen and Rappers- 

wil (Right Bank) 48 

The Pfannenstiel, 48. 

b. N.E. Railway from Zurich to Ziegelbriicke (Left 

Bank) 49 

The Waggi-Thal, 51. 

Hakdekkk, Switzerland. 19th Edition- 1 



NORTHERN SWITZERLAND. 



c. Railway from Zurich via Uster andWeesen to Sargans 5 1 
The Bachtel, 51. — Rieden, 52. — Biberlikopf; Amden ; 
Speer. From Muhlehorn over the Kerenzenberg to Mollis, 

53. — Obstalden. Miirtschenstock, 54. — Murgthal ; the 
Roththor; the Widerstein-Furkel and Murgsee-Furkel, 

54. — Seewen Lakes. From Walenstadt over the Kaser- 
ruck to Wildhaus in the Toggenburg. The Alvier. From 
Mels through the Weisstannen-Thal and Calfeisen-Thal 
to Vattis, 55. — The Gonzen, 56. 

15. From Zurich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen . . 56 

From Winterthur to Waldshut, 56. — From Winter- 
thur to Riiti (Tossthal Railway). From Frauenfeld to 
Wil. From Sulgen to Gossau, 57. 

16. From Zurich to St. Gallen, Rorschach, and Lindau . 57 

The Hornli. Nollen. From Winkeln to Appenzell, 58. — 
Excursions from St. Gallen: Freudenberg; Rosenberg; 
Falkenbarg, etc., 60. — Excursions from Rorschach: 
the Martinstobel ; the Mottelischloss; Weinburg; Horn, 
61. — Excursions from Lindau, 62. 

17. The Canton of Appenzell 62 

Chapel of St. Anthony, 63. — The Kaien. Vogelinsegg; 
Gabris, 64. — Stoss, 65. — The Wildkirchli and Eben- 
alp. The Sentis, 66. — From the Weissbad to Wild- 
haus. Altmann. From the Weissbad over the Hohe 
Kasten to the Valley of the Rhine, 67. — Teufen ; Froh- 
lichsegg, 68. 

18. From Rorschach to Coire 68 

Thai; Walzenhausen, 68. — Meldegg. Regulation of the 
Rhine. Berneck, 69. — Alvier; Gonzen. St. Luziensteig, 
70. — Falknis. From Landquart to Coire, 71. 

19. From Wil through the Toggenburg to Buchs in the 

Rhine Valley 71 

Ascent of the Speer from Ebnat or Nesslau. From 
Nesslau over the Kratzern Pass to Urnasch, 72. 

20. Ragatz and its Environs 73 

Excursions from Ragatz: Guschenkopf; Pizalun, 75. — 
Vasanenkopf ; Monteluna ; Piz Sol ; Vattis, 76. — Kunkels 
Pass; Trinser Furka; Sardona Club Hut, 77. 

21. From Zurich to Glarus and Linthal 77 

Rautispitz; Obersee; Scheye. Schild, 78. — Fronalp- 
stock; Schwandi; Oberblegi-See; Saasberg and Karpf- 
stock, 79. — Excursions from Linthal. Clarida-Hutte, 
80. — Uelialp, Baumgarten-Alp, Muttsee-Hiitte, Upper 
Sandalp, Todi, etc., 81. — From Linthal over the Kisten 
Pass to Ilanz, 82. 

22. From Linthal to Altdorf. KlausenRoad. Schachen-Thal 82 

Excursions from the Urner Boden. Excursions from 
Unter-Schachen : Stauber Fall, 83. — Schachenthaler 
Windgelle, 84. 

23. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel 84 

From Muotathal to Altdorf over the Kinzig Pass, and to 
Stachelberg by the Bisi-Thal, 8 1, 85. — The Glarnisch, 85. 

24. From Glarus to Elm. Sernf-Thal 86 

From Elm over the Segnes Pass to Flims ; over the Panixer 
Pass or the Sether Furka to Ilanz. Over the Foo Pass 
to Weisstannen. Over the Sardona Pass or the Haibiitzli 
Pass to Vattis, 87. — Over the Richetli Pass to Linthal, 88. 







.v&t 



3a> « 


^v 


•r — + 
1 






1. Bale. 

Railway Stations. The Baden Station (PI. F , 1 ; "Restaurant) , at 
Klein-Basel, is on the right bank of the Rhine. — The Alsace and the 
Swiss lines both start from the Central Station (PI. D, E, 6; "Restaurant, 
B. i fr.), in Bale , on the S. side of the town. These two stations are 
connected by a Junction Line (10 min. ; fares 1 fr., 70 c, 50 c), and also 
by Electric Tramways (see below; every 3 min.). 

Hotels. 'Trois Rois (PI. a; D, 2, 3), on the Rhine, R. b'k-V/z, B. l'/a, 
dej. 3'/2, D. 5, pens, from 12i/a, omn. 1 fr. — At the Central Station, 
to the right: 'Hotel Schweizerhof (PI. c; E, 6), R. 31/2-8, B. I1/2, dej. 
31/2, D- 4-5, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr. ; 'Hotel National (PI. d; E, 6), 
R. 2V2-5, B. I1/2, D. 4-41/2 fr.; "Hotel Victoria (PI. e; E, 6), R. 3V2-51/2, 
dej. 3, D. 4'/ 2 fr.; Hotel St. Gotthard (PI. o; E, 6), R. 2»/ 4 -4Vs, B. I1/2, 
dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 10-12i/ 2 fr.; Hotel Strassburg (PI. u; E, 6), R. 
21/2-5, B. li/i, D. 272 fr. To the left of the station: "Hotel Euler (Pl.b; 
D, 6), R. 4-7, dej. 31/2, D. 5, omnibus 1 fr., first-class; Hotel Hofer 
(PI. f; D, 6), R. from 2y 2 , B. li/ 4 , D. 2y« fr.; Bernerhof (PI. g; D, 6), 
R. 21/2-4, D. 3 fr. ; Hotel dh Jdra (PI. t ; D, 6) , R. 2-4, B. 1, D. 3 fr. ; 
Hot. Gehrig (PI. v; D, 6), R. from 2i/ 2 B. H/4, D. 2i/ 2 , S. 2 fr. — In the 
town: Hotel de l'Europe (PI. n; D, 5), 3 min. from the Central Station, 
well spoken of; 'Metropole (PI. h; D, 4), R. 2i/ 2 -4, B. I 1 /*, D. 3, pens. 
8-10 fr. ; "Hot. Bauer au Rhin, next door to the Trois Rois, with terrace 
on the Rhine, R. 21/2-5, B. lty 4 , D. 31/2, S. 2i/ 2 fr. ; 'Hot. Central (PI. i ; D, 4), 
R. 21/2-4, B.l'A, D. 3'/2, pens. 8-10 fr.; 'Balances (PI. m; D,4), R.21/2, B.l, 
D. 3 fr. ; 'Cigogne (PI. k ; D, 3), R. 2i/ 2 -5, D. 3, S. 2i/ 2 , pens. 8-12 fr. — On 
the right bank: 'Hotel Krafft (PI. p; E, 3), R. 21/2-4, B. I1/4, D. 21/2 fr., 
on the Rhine ; Hotel de Bale (PI. r; F, 2), R. 2y 2 -4, B. 1*/,, D. 2i/ 2 fr. ; 
'Hotel Schrieder (PI. s ; F, 1), opposite the Baden Station, R. 2V2-4, B. I1/4, 
D. 3 fr. — Pension Holzberger, Muhlenberg 3, on the Rhine (6-10 fr.) ; Pens. 
Roller, Kornhausgasse 18. 

Cafes-Restaurants. "Stadl-Catino, Baifusser-Platz, corner of the Steinen- 
berg; "Kunsthalle, see p. 9; Zur Rebleuten-Zunft, Freie-Str. 50; Zum Safran, 
in the guildhouse of that name; Veltliner-Balle , Freie-Str. 25; Zum Car- 
dinal, Freie-Str. 36; Buhler's Bierhalle, close to the Casino (in summer, 
Biihler's Bier-Garten, in the Sternengasse). — On the right bank: Spitz, 
by the old bridge, with a terrace overlooking the Rhine; Burgvoalei, Reb- 
gasse 14, with garden ; QoebeVs Wine Rooms, Bahnhof-Str. 13, opp. the Baden 
Station; Natter, Warteck Brewery, near the Baden station. — Sommer-Casino 
(PI. F, 6), near the St. Jacob Monument (p. 9), with a pleasant garden, 
music on Mon., Wed., and Frid. at 7.30, on Sun. at 6 p.m. (50 c.) ; Schiilzen- 
haut (PI. B, 4), built in 1661 and restored in 1881-83, with old and new 
stained glass , good wine. — Confectioners (who sell 'Basler Leckerli') : 
Koch, near the old bridge; Speiser, Freie-Str. 61; Stauber, Spalen 8. 

Electric Tramways. 1. From the Central Station via, the Markt-Platz 
to the Baden Station every 6 min. from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.; time 16 min., 
fare 20 c. (no luggage carried). — 2. From the Central Station via the Wett- 
stein-Platz to the Baden Station in 11 min., every 6 min. from 7.14 a.m. to 
8.26 p.m. ; fare 10 c. — 3. From the Missions-Strasse via, the Barfiisser-Platz to 
Birsfelden every 22 min. (20 c). — 4. From the Clara-Platz to Klein-Huningen 
(20c). — 5. From the Barfiisser-Platz via, the Spalen- Ringweg to the 
Alschwyler-Str. (20 c) — 6. From St. Ludwig via the Markt-Platz and Bandels- 
bank to the St. Margarethen-Slrasse (20 c). 

Cabs. For 1/4 hr., 1-2 persons, 80 c; second 'A hr. 60, each additional 
■A hr. 50 c ; 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c, the second ■/« hr. 90, each additional 1/4 hr. 
70 c. From either station into the town, 1-2 pers. 1 fr. 20 c. , 3-4 pers. 

1 fr. 80 c ; from one station to the other 1-2 pers. I1/2, 3-4 pers. 2i/ 2 fr., each 
box 20 c. extra. — Taxameter Cabs, for i/ 4 hr., 1-2 persons 80 c, '/* hr. 1 fr. 
30 c, 3/ 4 hr. 1 fr. 80 c, 1 hr. 2 fr. 30 c; for 3-4 persons 1 fr. 20, 1 fr. 80, 

2 fr. 40c, 3 fr.; trunk 20c. At night (10-6), for 1-2 persons, Vt hr. 2 fr. 
70 c, each additional 1/4 hr. 1 fr. 

Post and Telegraph Offices (PI. D, 4), Freie-Str. 12. 

1* 



4 I. Route 1. BALE. Miinster. 

Baths in the Rhine (PI. E, 3, 4), entered from the Pfalz (p. 5), 80 c. 
Warm Baths : Leonhard-Str. 12, Clara-Str. 29, near the Baden Station,"etc. 

Theatre (P. E, 4, 5); opera and drama from Sept. to Easter. Summer 
Theatre in the Hotel de Bale (p. 3). 

Picture Gallery in the Kuiuthalle (p. 9; open 9.30 to 12.15 and 1.45 to 
5; adm. 50 c, Sun. afternoons 20 c). 

English Church Service in a chapel at the Hotel des Trois Rois (10.30 
and 3). — United States Consul, Mr. George Qifford. 

The Verkehrsbureau (Official Enquiry Office), Stadthausgasse 13, near 
the Markt-Platz, gives information of all kinds. 

BS.le, or Basel (830'), the capital of the half-canton Bale-Ville 
or Basel-Stadt (pop. 107,287), is first mentioned in the year 374 
.is Basilea, having probably been founded by the Roman armies, 
when they fell back on the Rhine, near the old Colonia Augusta Rau- 
racorum, established in B. C. 27 by L. Munatius Plancus (now Kaiser- 
Augst, 5>/2 M. to the E. ; p. 22). In the middle ages Bale was a 
free town of the Empire, and it has been a member of the Swiss 
Confederation since 1501. The university was founded in 1460 by 
Pope Pius 11. (^Eneas Sylvius). The city lies on both banks of the 
Rhine, which here receives the waters of the Birs and the Birsig 
on the S. and of the Wiese on the N. On the left bank of the Rhine 
lies Gross-Basel, on two hills separated by the valley of the Birsig, 
through which run the Freie-Strasse andGerber-Strasse, the ancient 
arteries of traffic. On the right bank lies Klein-Basel, with numerous 
manufactories. 

Three Bridges cross the river, all affording admirable views. 
The wooden Alte Rhein-Briicke (P1.D,E, 3), 165 yds. long, 16 yds. 
wide, and partly supported by stone piers, was originally built in 
1225. In the middle of it rise a chapel of the 16th cent, and a 
barometer-column. Above the old bridge the river is crossed by 
the iron Wettslein - Briicke (PI. 1\ 4) , completed in 1879 , with 
three spans of 200 ft. each. At each end of the bridge are two basi- 
lisks , the heraldic symbol of Bale. Below the old bridge is the 
five-arched Johanniter-Briicke (PI. D, 1), completed in 1882. 

The *Munster (PI. E, 4), a picturesque edifice of red sandstone, 
with a brilliantly coloured new roof and two slender towers, is 
conspicuous in every view of the city. Down to the Reformation 
(1529) it was the cathedral of the old see of Bale. Its foundation 
is ascribed to Emp. Henry II. (1010-24), but the oldest existing 
parts belong to a building of 1185, which was damaged in 1356 by 
an earthquake and a fire. It was then rebuilt in the Gothic style and 
reconsecrated in 1365. Of the Romanesque structure the N. portal, 
or St. (rallus Gateway (built about 1200), still exists, and is adorned 
with statues of the Evangelists and John the Baptist; over the church- 
door is a relief representing the wise and foolish virgins; at the 
sides in six niches are the works of charity, and at the top Christ 
on the judgment-seat and the angels at the Last Day. The exterior 
of the Choir, with its round-arched arcades, is also Romanesque. 
The W. Facade, with the towers, the chief portal, and two sidp- 



Museum. BALE. /. Route 1. 5 

entrances, is entirely Gothic. The tasteful IV. Tower is 210', the 
S. Tower, completed in 1500, is 206' high. The sculptures ahove the 
chief portal represent the Virgin and Child, and under them the 
Emp. Henry, with a model of the church, and the Empress Kuni- 
gunde ; on the two side-entrances are two knights, on the left St. 
George and the dragon, and on the right St. Martin. The building 
underwent a thorough restoration in 1852-56 and 1880-90. 

The Interior is open to the public on Wed., 2-4 p.m.; at other times 
admission 25 c. for each person. The sacristan lives at Miinster-Platz 
No. 13, but in summer he is generally in the church (knock). The 
church, 213' long and 107' wide, originally consisted of nave and aisles, 
but is now provided with double aisles owing to the inclusion of the 
chapels. The general effect is very imposing, especially when seen from 
the galleries. The stained-glass windows are modern. The beautiful rood- 
loft of 1381 supports the large and excellent organ. The pulpit dates from 
1486. In the left outer aisle are monuments of the 13-15th cent, and (farther on) 
two reliefs with the martyrdom of St. Vincent and of St. Lawrence. The font is 
of 1465 ; on the pillar opposite is the tombstone of the learned Erasmus of 
Rotterdam (d. 1536), with a long Latin inscription. The right outer aisle 
contains a relief of six Apostles (lith cent.). In the transept are late- 
Gothic choir -stalls, with satirical representations (15th cent.). In the 
retro-choir are monuments of the Empress Anna (d. 1281), consort of Ru- 
dolph of Hapsburg and mother of Albert I., and of her youngest son Charles. 
— In 1431 the great Council began to sit in the Miinster. It consisted of up- 
wards of 500 clerics, including many great dignitaries, whose ostensible 
task was a 'reformation of the Church in head and members' ; but after 
having debated for years without result and been excommunicated by 
Pope Eugene IV., it was dissolved in 1448. 

On the S. side of the choir are extensive *Cloistbks, at the en- 
trance to which from the Rittergasse stands a statue of John CEco- 
lampadius (d. 1531), the Reformer. The vaulting of the cloisters is 
partly Romanesque, partly late-Gothic (1470-90). They were 
restored in 1869-73, and used until 1850 as family burial-places. 
They extend to the Pfalz, a terrace behind the Miinster, 65' above 
the Rhine, planted with chestnuts, overlooking the green river and 
the hills of the Black Forest. Near it (Baumleingasse 18) is the 
house of Frobenius the printer, in which Erasmus died in 1536. 

In the Augustinergasse, which descends to the N.W. from the 
Miinster-Platz to the bridge, is the Museum (PI. E, 3), constructed 
in 1843-49. On the groundfloor, to the left, are the Ethnographical 
and Prehistoric Collection (lacustrine remains) and the Collection of 
Reptiles; to the right are the Osteological Collection and the Library. 
In the vestibule is a marble group of Adam and Eve, by Schloth. 
On the staircase are three frescoes by Bocklin (1866-70), represent- 
ing Gsea, Flora, and Apollo. The first floor contains the Aula of the 
University, with portraits of 107 scholars of Bale, and the Natural 
History Collections. In the ante-room are marble busts of ten recent 
professors of the university. — The second floor is occupied by the 
"Picture Gallery (director, Dr. Daniel Burckhardt), chiefly interest- 
ing for its paintings and drawings by Hans Holbein the Younger 
(b. at Augsburg 1497, d. in London 1543), who lived at Bale in 
1515-26 and 1528-32, and also for the paintings by Arnold Bocklin 



6 J. Route 1. BALE. Museum. 

(b. at Bale in 1829, d. 1901). Adm. free on Sun., 10.15-12.30 and 
2-4, and on "Wed., 2-4; at other times fee 50 c. ; closed from 12.30 
to 2. Catalogue 60 c. 

The staircase from the first to the second floor is adorned with cartoons 
by Cornelius, Schnorr, and Steinle, and with a painting by Benner of a Street 
in Capri. — Room I. Marble bust of Jacob Burckhardt (1818-97), the 
writer on art, by Volkmann. — Room II (to the left). Modern Swiss 
Painters. To the left: Stiickelberg. 421 The painter's children, 427. Mario- 
nettes, 431. Prophetess, 426. Pilgrimage among the Sabine Jits.; 526. 
Balmer, Portrait; 505. Gos , Storm in the Seflnen Valley; 46). Barzaghi- 
Cattaneo, Irene de Spilimbergo, a lady-musician of the 16th cent.; 462. 
Gleyre, Pentheus; 511. Ritz, Pilgrims of Savieze; A. Feuerbach, 307a. Death 
of Pietro Aretino, 307b. Portrait of Allgeier, the engraver; 475. Grob, Pesta- 
lozzi at Stnns; 463. Qleyre, Nymph; 478. Bachmann, Carol-singers in the 
Canton of'Lucernc . ; 514. Giron, Girl of the Valais ; 524. Breitenstein, Alpine 
landscape; 459. Roller, Cows at water; Ziind, 447. The Prodigal Son, 44fi. 
Harvest; 499. E. de Pury , Among the Lagoons; "458. Roller, Horses; 482. 
Riidisiihli, .Marshy ground ; 421-424. Al. Calame, Landscapes; 502. M. Joseph, 
Roses; 452. Ed. Girardet, After the battle; 513. K. Stauffer, Portrait of 
Gustav Freytag; Dielhelm Meyer, 472. Girl of the Valais, 471. Girl of the 
Hasli-Thal; 484. Castan, Harvest; B. Vautier, 442. Rustic debtor compelled 
by a rich neighbour and his agent to sell his property, 443. The involuntary 
confession; 429. Stiickelberg, Earthquake at Bale (1356); 501. Frbliclier, 
Summer landscape; 49?. l)u Mont, A difficult piece of music; 448. Ziind, 
Landscape; 450. Ed. Girardet, Snow-balling; 5r0. Bouvier, Mignon; Bar- 
zaghi-Cattaneo , 464. Tasso and Leonora, 466. Fiesco; 468. Steffan, Murg 
Valley; 481. Riidisiihli, Evening-scene; Anker, 444. Children's breakfast, 
445. Quack; 516. Berthoud, Capri. — Sculptures: I. Stauffer, Adoring 
youth ; i. Hoffmann, Marble statue of a girl. 

The adjacent Room III. contains the collection of engravings (usually 
closed). Room IV. contains paintings and studies by F. Buchser of Soleure 
(1828-90). Rooms V. and VI. are occupied by the director. — We return 
to Room I. and enter, to the left, the — 

VII. Room of the Drawings. These include, on the walls and in 
cabinets, admirable examples of Mam Holbein the Elder (4-8), Albrecht Diirer 
(1-3), and "Ham Holbein the Younger (9-80). Among the last may be men- 
tioned : 9, 10. Burgomaster Meyer of Bale and his wife; 66. Portrait of 
Holbein by himself; 68. Family of Sir Thomas More; 69-71. Burgoma-tev 
Meyer with his wife and daughter ; 50. Combat of foot-soldiers, 27. Samuel 
and Saul (these two sketches for the lost pictures in the Council Chamber) ; 
51-56. Costumes of Bale women; 31-40. The Passion. Between the first 
and second window are the original drawings (1515) of Holbein's Praise 
of Folly (Laus stultitiee) and drawings by other German masters of the 
16th century. — We next enter the — 

Large Saloon, in seven section. Here we turn to the left, pass Imhoft 
statue of Rebecca, cross the old-German room, pass between the so-called 
Slcinhduser Apollo and the replica of the Farnese Hercules (two ancient heads), 
and reach the North Ante-Room (IX), witli etchings by E. van Mvyden, 
water-colours by Samuel and Peter Birman, etc. — Room X. On the right: 
Amhrose Holbein, *21a. Portrait of the Bale painter Hans Herbster, 26. 
Portrait of the goldsmith Gcorg Schweiger, 23, 24. Portraits of boys, 25. 
Skulls. Hans Holbein the Younger, 19. Dorothea Offenburg (lady in a rich 
costume) with Cupid; *1S. The same lady, with the inscription 'Lais 
Coiiiitliiaca'(1526); "20. Wife and children of the painter (1528); *15. The 
dead body of Christ, of startling realism (1621); 14. The Passion, in eight 
separate scenes, formerly in tbeRathhaus; la. Last Supper; 17, *7. Eras- 
mus; 16. Boniface Amerbach (1510); 21. A London merchant; 28. Johann 
Frobcnius, the printer; 13. EcceHomo; 10. The burgomaster Jacob Meyer 
and his wife (1519); 3. Christ on the Mount of Olives; 6 and 6a. School- 
masters signboard of 1516; 1. Virgin and Child; 8, 9. Heads of Saints; 
*U. Last Supper. M. Qriinewald, 32. Crucifixion, 33. Resurrection; Hani 



Rathhaw. BALE. /. Route 1 . 7 

BaXdung Orien, 34. Crucifixion, 35. Nativity, "36, *37. Pictures with figures 
of Death; 40-43. Jf. Manuel Deutsch; 58, 69. Tob. Stimmer, Full-length por- 
traits of Jac. Schwitzer and his wife (1564). — Room XI. In the centre, 
marble statue of Jason, by ScMSth. Nos. 65-72, Paintings by Conrad Witz, 
of Bale (ca. 1440); 73. Dutch Master of the 15th cent., Pius Joachim. — At 
the entrance to the next section, to the right, 166 a. Bronzino, Portrait of 
a man; to the left, 73a. Early French School, Jacques de Savoie, Count of 
Romont. — Room XII. On the wall, ancient Greek head of a youth. To 
the left, 140. W. van Mieris, Fishmonger; 146. S. van Ruysdael, Landscape; 
Teniers the Younger, 131. Dutch interior, 132. Peasant-scene; 139. Braken- 
burgh, Tavern; 137. G. du Jardin, Before the inn; above, 124. Peter Thys, 
Pieta; 117. P. Brueghel the Younger; John the Baptist preaching; 138. Ber- 
chem, Cattle crossing a stream ; *118. Rubens, Bearing of the Cross (sketch) ; 
136. Wouverman, Horses and ass; 133. Teniers the Younger, Tavern-music; 
183 a. Matt. Merian, Portrait of H. J. Miiller (1647); *156. Hobbema, Forest- 
scene; 139a. Thorn. Wyck, Tavern-scene; 125. Dirk van Sandvoort, Strolling 
singers; 145. G. RombouU, Forest-scene; 165. Old copy of RaphaeVs Joanna 
of Aragon; 126. Weenix , Landscape. — Room XIII. Marble statuette of a 
runner, by Kissling, and a bust of S. Birman. To the left, 213. Ph. de 
Champaigne, Portrait; 218. Moucheron, Landscape; to the right, 237. Teniers 
the Younger, Smoker ; 20H. A r . Poussin, Bacchus. — Room XIV. /. Marble 
statue of Psyche, by Schlbth. To the left , 299. Sauser , Portrait of F. 
Overbeck; 292-97. Landscapes by /. J. Frey, of Bale; 290. Aurel Robert, 
Interior of St. Mark's at Venice; 523. Wtirtemberger, Portrait of Bocklin; 
300. Diday, Lake of Brienz; 306. Lessing, Forest-scene; 269. Neher, Abraham 
and the angels; 280, 281. /. Schravdolph, Angels; 278. Schnorr von Karols- 
feld, 'Domine quo vadis'; 277. Oeerbeck, Death of St. Joseph; 274a. L. 
Richter, Forest-scene in autumn; 2i2. Steinle, St. Luke painting the Virgin. 
— Room XV. contains German drawings of the first half of the 19th century. 

We now return to the Koom of the Drawings, pass through Cabinet VIII., 
with copies after H. Holbein the Younger, and enter — 

Room XVI. 449. Zand, Lake of Lucerne; 515. Benner, The Blue Grotto; 
455. Fug. Oirardet, Arab coffee-house; 496. Bocion, Harbour of Ouchy. — 
m. Slauffer, Bronze statuette of Adrian von Bubenberg (p. 166). 

Room XVII. To the left, *512. Zuber, Forest-scene in spring; 504. 
Burnand, Return from the Alp; 517. Meyer, Untersee; 507. Sandreuter, 
Heroic landscape; 460. Roller, Cows watering; 518. De Goumois, Gale; 
508. Sandreuter, Female beauty; 520. Lendorff, Mountain-scene; Preiswerk, 
479. Satyr family, 480. Seashore; 265-268. J. A. Koch, Landscapes; 522, 521. 
3. Thoma, Landscapes; 519. Baud-Bovy, Mountain summit; 456. A. van 
Muyden, Roman street-scene ; Ed. Girardet, 453. Fortune-teller, 451. Barber's 
shop in Brittany; 289. L. Robert, Bandits' wives in flight; 310. A. W. 
TSpffer, Rustic meal; 457. A. van Muyden, Italian woman and child; 500. 
FrSlicher, Landscape; 476. Staebli, River-scene. 

Room XVIII. A. Bocklin, "435. Battle of Centaurs, *436. Sacred grove, 
*438. Life a dream, "441. Odysseus and Calypso, 437. Naiads, "434. Pieta, 
440. Head of Medusa (relief in plaster), 439. Portrait of himself, 432. Diana 
hunting, 433. Viola (lady with a green veil) ; 307. A. Feuerbach, Idyll ; 506. 
Sandreuter, The Fountain of Youth. — k. Bronze bust of Bocklin by 
Hildebrand. 

The Bathhaus (PI. D, 3), or Town Hall, in the Marktplate, 
was erected in the Burgundian late-Gothic style in 1508-21 and 
restored in 1824-28. By the flight of steps in the court is a Statue 
of Munatius Plancus (p. 4), erected here in 1580. The handsome 
Council Hall is adorned with fine panelling and stained glass. — 
The late-Gothic Fischmarkt-Brunnen (PI. D, 3) dates from 1467. 

The large Barfiisaer-Kirche (PI. D, E, 4), of the beginning of 
the 14th cent, with a very lofty choir, now contains the "Historical 
Museum , ranking with that at Zurich (p. 44) as one of the two 



8 J. Route 1. BALK. Hist. Museum. 

chief collections of the kind in Switzerland (Sun. 10.30-12.30 and 
2-4, and Wed. 2-4, free; other days 8-6 in summer, 10-4 in 
■winter, fee 50 c. ; director, Prof. Albert Burckhardt-Finsler). 

Nave. Architectural fragments and sculptures from the churches and 
secular edifices of Bale. St. Martin, from the Minster. To the left, the 
so-called Holbein Fountain (p. 9). Above St. Martin, the i Ldllenktlnig\ a 
curious piece of mechanism, formerly on the exterior of the tower (remov- 
ed in 1839) of the Rhine bridge ; when the clock struck, the head stuck 
out its tongue and rolled its eyes. — The adjoining Waffentammlung or 
Collection of Weapons contains the chief curiosities of the arsenal of Bale : 
interesting cannon (in the middle a finely ornamented twelve-pounder of 
1514), Bale uniforms, trophies of war (in the case to the right, hauberk 
supposed to have belonged to Charles the Bold), handsome weapons, tent, 
guild-banners, etc. Next come some State Sleight and fine specimens of 
Smith's and Locksmith's Work. — To the right and left of the nave and 
in the aisles is a series of rooms intended to exhibit the development of 
the furnishing and adorning of dwelling-houses from the 16th cent, on- 
wards. To the right of the entrance : *i. Room from the Spiesshof (1601), 
with panelling and a large bed ; 2. Room from the Spiesshof (1580), with 
fine cabinets and doors and the old Bale council-table ; 3. Room from the 
Strassburger Eof (1600), with a large bed, cabinet, and chests; *4. Dining 
Room of Councillor Jselin (1607), with beautiful panelling ; 5. Room from 
Schwyi (1650), with heavy coffered ceiling ; 6. State Room from the Haul 
zum Cardinal (1540). — We now cross to the other side of the nave. 
7. Old Kitchen , with large chimney-piece ; 8. Schbnau Room from the 
Chateau of Oeschgen (17th cent.); 9. Gothic Room (15th cent.), with a 
large bedstead of 1510 and other Gothic furniture; 10. Rococo Room (1760) ; 
11. NeuttUck Room (1787), with a collection of models of gates of Bale and 
of neighbouring castles. Room 12 (at the entrance to the church) contains 
the Collection of Coins, including coins, medals, and dies of Bale and other 
Swiss towns, and also a few ancient coins and vases. 

The Choib contains several state sledges and ecclesiastical antiquities. 
To the left, Fragments of the famous 'Death Dance of Bale, a fresco 
which once adorned the wall of the Dominican burial-ground (taken down 
in 1805), painted early in the 15th century; bells of the 15th cent.; fine 
choir-stalls of 1598; Carved Altars of the 16-16th centuries. On the high- 
altar, Altar of St. Maria Calanca, in the Grisons (1512) ; to the right, 
Votive Tablet of the Duchess Isabella of Burgundy (1433), in enamelled bronze ; 
above the last, kneeling figure of the knight Hiigelin von Schbnegg (1378) ; 
farther on , winged altar-piece from the church of Baden in the Aargau 
(15th cent.). — To the left is the entrance to the Treasury, which contains 
reliquaries, monstrances, crosses, and chalices of the 13-18th cent. ; cups 
and goblets belonging to the University (16-17th cent.) ; handsome plate of 
the guilds and trade-companies of Bale; three Swiss daggers with silver-gilt 
sheaths of the 16th cent.; arms of Hans Holbein, painted by himself; dagger, 
cup, hour-glass, table-case of Erasmus of Rotterdam. To the left of the 
entrance, cast of the golden antependium presented to the Cathedral of 
Bale by Emp. Henry II. (beginning of the 11th cent.), which, along with 
other objects of value, was assigned to Bale-Campagne at the division of the 
canton in 1833 and forthwith sold (now in the Musee de Cluny at Paris). 

We now return to the nave and ascend the staircase to the right to 
the Galleries of the aisles, in which the smaller objects of the collec- 
tion are exhibited. Musical Antiquities. — Bale Looms and specimens of 
Ribbon Weaving at Bale in the 17-18th centuries. — Embroidery, fans; 
Bale and other Swiss Costumes of the 17-18th centuries. — On the old 
organ-screen (above the entrance), Roman, Alemannian, and Burgundian 
Antiquities, found at Augst (p. 22) and elsewhere. Beautiful "Stained Glass. — 
Farther on, Small Works of Art. Wood-carvings (in a case to the right, 
Adam and Eve, boxwood figures of 1500), ivory carvings, enamels, book- 
bindings, goldsmiths 1 models, small bronzes. — Domestic Utensils: por- 
celain, f&yence, glass, pottery, tin-ware, works in leather, book-bindings, 
toys, moulds for pastry, armorial windows. — Government and Judicial 



Kunsthalle. BALE. I. Route 1. 9 

Antiquities : weights and measures of the 14- 18th cent. ; staves for the 
officers of justice, judicial swords, executioner's dress. — We now descend 
to the nave and enter, from the end of the right aisle, the — 

Court, which contains stone monuments of the Roman, mediaeval, and 
Renaissance periods, gates in hammered iron, and other objects. 

Near the Historical Museum, in the Steinenberg, is the Kunst- 
halle (PI. E, 5), built by Stehlin in 1870-72. The staircase is 
adorned with a fresco by Stuckelberg (Awakening of Art), and on 
the garden-facade are a sgraffito frieze and stone masks by Bocklin. 
The restaurant contains mural paiDtings by Brilnner (exhibition of 
pictures, see p. 4). — In the Elisabethen-Strasse is the handsome 
St. Elisabethenkirche (PI. E, 5), built in the Gothic style in 
1857-65, with stained-glass windows from Munich and an open-work 
tower, 232' high. 

The 8.E. Suburbs are occupied by the richer classes. From the 
St. Alban-Thor (PI. G, 5), in this quarter, the promenades of the 
St. Alban-Anlage and of the jEschengraben extend on the site of the 
old ramparts to the railway-station. In the AZschen-Platz (PI. E, 
F, 5) is a fountain (jet 80' high), which, however, plays on August 
26th only. The old -St. Albans Convent (PI. F , 4) has fine Ro- 
manesque cloisters. The Monument of St. Jacob (PI. F, 6), by F. 
Schloth, completed in 1872, commemorates the heroism and death 
of 1300 Confederates who opposed the Armagnac invaders under the 
Dauphin (afterwards Louis XI.) in 1444. Beyond, to the right, is 
the Sommer-Casino (p. 3). — In the promenades, near the station 
(PL E, 6), is the Strassburg Monument, a marble group erected in 1895 
by Baron Herve de Gruyer of Strassburg in memory of the assistance 
rendered by Switzerland to the aged and the women and children of 
Strassburg during and after the siege of 1870, by Bartholdi of Paris. 

In the W. Quarter, in the Spalen Suburb (PI. C, 3, 4), is the 
Holbein Fountain, with a relief of dancing peasants (after Holbein) 
and the figure of a bagpiper, restored in 1887. The Spalen-Thor 
(PI. C, 3), erected about 1400, is the handsomest of the remaining 
gates of Bale. To the N., in the Schonbein-Str., are the Botanic 
Oarden (always open), with the Botanic Institute of the University, 
and the University Library, built by La Roche in the baroque style 
(1892-96) and containing 250,000 vols, (including many incunabula) 
and 4000 MSS., mainly from the time of the Council of Bale (p. 5) 
and the Reformation. The exhibition-room on the first floor, with 
early impressions, miniatures, book-bindings, portraits, and auto- 
graphs, is open daily, 10-12.30 and 2.30-5; the well-equipped 
reading-room is open 9-12.30 and 2.30-7. Near it are two other 
modern buildings belonging to the University : the Vesalianum 
(PI. C, 3), or institute for anatomy and physiology (anatomical 
collection open on Sun., 10.30-12); and the Bernoullianum 
(PL C, 2, 3), for physics, chemistry, and astronomy. In the vesti- 
bule of the last are busts of the famous mathematicians of Bale, 
Jacob and John Bernoulli (d. 1705 and 1748). — In the Hebel- 



10 I. Route 1. BALE. Zoolog. Garden. 

Strasse is the house (tablet) where the Alemannian poet Hebel 
(1760-1826) was born. A tasteful monument, with a bust by 
Max Leue, was erected to him in 189!) in front of the Church of 
St. Peter (PI. D, 3). — The Mission House (PI. B, 3) contains an 
ethnographical collection, mainly from the E. Indies, China, and 
W. Africa (adm. free, on application to the porter; catalogue 1 fr.). 

In Klein-Basel is the handsome Church of St. Matthew (PI. E, 1), 
built in the Gothic style by Henry of Breslau In 1896, with a good 
interior. The tower is 240' high. 

The Zoological Garden (PI. B, C, 6; Restaurant) contains good 
examples of Swiss and other animals (adm. 50 c. ; concerts on Sun. 
afternoons, 25 c). — About VoM. to the N. of the Baden Station 
(PL F, 1), on the Wiese, is the Erlen-Park, much frequented on 
Sun. (rfmts.). 

From Bale to Fluhen, 8 M., narrow-gauge railway ('Birsigthalbahn') 
in 40-48 min. (fares f fr. 30, 95 c.)- The train, starting from the Steinenthor- 
Strasse (P). D, 5), passes the Zoological Garden (see above) and traverses 
the fertile valley of the Birtig. Stations : l'/4 M. Binningen (Hirsch), a large 
village (5135 inhab.) with the church of St. Margaret and the popular 
Margare.then-Park (cafe); f 3 /4 M. Bottminger-Muhle; 2*/2 M. Bottmingen, 
with the Bottminger Schlosschen (inn and pretty park); 3 M. Obertcil (Krone), 
with an extensive parquetry-factory; 4'/4 M. Therwil (Rotsli), a substantial 
village in the Leimen-Thal; 5VsM. Ellingen (Badhaus), with a chalybeate 
spring. The line then skirts the hills to the W. via Witterswil and Battwil 
to (8 31.) Fluhen (1250'; Hdt.-Pens. Bad Fluhen, D. 3'/2, pens, from 4'/2 fr.), 
a small village with a chalybeate spring, prettilyfsituated in a defile at the 
foot of the Blauen, close to the frontier of Alsace. Interesting excursion 
hence via Tannwald (1600') to the (IV2M.) well-preserved ruin of 'Landakron 
(1790 ft.), the tower of which commands a wide view (key at the last house 
in Tannwald). — A road leads to the S. from Fluhen to (f/2 M.) Mariastein 
(1685' ; Kreuz; Pott; Engel), formerly a Benedictine abbey, with a frequented 
pilgrimage-church, picturesquely situated on a steep crag. A spacious rock- 
cavern beneath the church contains the chapel of Maria im Stein. From 
Mariastein the Landskron may be reached via, Tannwald in 25 minutes. — 
The road goes on beyond Mariastein to Metzerlen and (2 1 /* M.) Burg (1740'; 
*Inn), a charmingly-situated village with a mineral spring and a chateau 
commanding fine views. — The Blauen (2690') , which may be ascended 
from Ettingen (see above) or Mariastein in H/2 hr., commands a wide 
prospect, extending on the S.E. to the Bernese Alps. 

2. From Bale to Bienne and Neuchatel through the 
Val Moutier. 

71 M. Railway ( Jura-Simplon Line) to Bienne (56 M.) in 3-4 hrs. (fares 
9 fr. 4' 1, 6 fr. 60, 4 fr. 70 c.) ; to Neuchatel in 33/4-6 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 55, 8 fr. 50, 
6 fr. 30 c). From Bale to Geneva, express in 6V4 hrs. 

Bale (870'), see p. 3. Leaving the Central Station, the train 
soon diverges from the Central Line (p. 14) to the right, passes the 
cemetery, and near (3 M.) MUnchenstein (Rossli) crosses the Birs. — 
5 M. Dornaeh-Arlesheim (960' ; Munzinger's Restaurant). 

On a wooded hill, '/4M. to the E., near Arlesheim (1130'; LBwe; Ocfis), 
rises Srhlnsi Birseck, once a chateau of the Bishops of Bile, with a pleasant 
park, int reslinf; grottoes, and a hermitage. (Apply to the gardener at the 
loot of the hill.) — Just to the \V. of tbe station is Dornaclibrugg (1105'; 
Ochs, with view-terrace), and 3 ,'t M. to the S.E. lies the village of Dornach 



LAUFEN. /. Route 2. 11 

(1105'), above which, to the E., rises the picturesque ruined castle of 
Dorneck ('/2hr. ; 1640'). — From Dornach a winding road ascends to the S.E. 
to the (3'/2 M.) village of Oempen (2230' ; Kreuz), whence we may ascend 
the (20min.) Schartenfluh (2510'), with a view-tower 80' in height commanding 
an extensive panorama. 

The train follows the right hank of the Birs. — 7 M. Aesch 
(985' ; Herzog-Vogel Restaurant), a village on the left hank. The 
valley contracts. The train passes through a tunnel under the 
well-preserved chateau of Angenstein, and enters the canton of Bern. 
On a hill to the right is the ruin of Pfefflngen (1640'). On the right, 
near (9'/4M.) Qrellingen (1075'; Bar), are several factories. The 
train passes through a deep cutting and crosses the Birs twice. 
14 M. Zwingen; the chateau, on the right, was formerly the seat of 
the episcopal governors. 

I41/2M. Laufen (1 1 55'; Hdt. Jura; Sonne) lies near the confluence 
of theLiitzel and Birs. The tTain traverses a narrow, wooded valley. 
Beyond (16 M.) Barschwil (Croix FeMerale) are two tunnels and two 
bridges across the Birs. I8V2M. Liesberg. At (22'/2 M.) Saugeren, 
Fr. Soyhieres (1320'; Hot. de la Gare), the language changes from 
German to French. On the right is the ruin of that name. At 
the rocky egress of the valley, before its expansion into a broad 
plain, lies Bellerive, on the left, now a factory. On a hill to the 
right is the ruin of Vorburg (1720'). 

241/2 M. Delemont (1360'; *Rail. Restaurant, D. l 1 ^-; 
*Faucon; Lion d'Or; Soleil, Hotel Lachat, Hot. de la Gare, near 
the station, all very fair) is an old town (5043 inhab.) on the 
Some, with a chateau of the former Bishops of Bale. 

Fkom DblSmont to Porkentruy, 18 M., railway in 3 /4"l'/« hr. (fares 
3 fr. 5, 2 fr. 15, 1 fr. 50 c). The line traverses the grassy valley of the 
Some. Stations: Courletelle, Courfaivre, Bassecouvt. From(7V'2M.) Olovelier 
a visit may be paid, via Undervelier, to the (lV2hr.) "Galerie du Pichoux, 
an imposing gorge of the Some. We next thread a tunnel , 3200 yds. 
in length, and two others , cross the large viaduct of Combe-Maran, and 
reach (11 M.) Ste. Ursanne (1463'; Boeuf), a picturesque old town in the 
romantic valley of the Doubs (p. 232), with a ruined chateau on a lofty 
rock. Another tunnel pierces the Mont Terrible. Stat. Courgenay. Then 
(18 M.) Forrentruy, Ger. Pruntrut (1390'; "Hit. National, near the station ; 
"Cheval Blanc), a considerable old town (692T inhab.) with a chateau, 
once the residence of the Bishops of Bale. At Riclere, 7 M. to the W. of 
Porrentruy, and 1 M. to the S.E. of Delle (see below), the 'Qrotloei of 
Milandre, a large stalactite grotto, have been discovered and made accessible 
(adm. 1 fr.). — The line leads hence to Delle, the French frontier-station, 
Belfort, and Paris (night- express from Bale to Paris in 8 hrs. ; fares 59 fr. 5, 
40 fr. 10 c). 

Beyond (26'/2 M.) Courrendlin (Cerf) the tiain enters the *Val 
Moutier, Ger. Miinster-Thal, a wild, romantic ravine of the Birs, 
flanked with huge limestone rocks. In the Roman period it was 
traversed by the road from Aventicum (p. 242) to Augusta Raura- 
corum (p. 4). The line is carried through these 'Gorges de Moutier 
by means of a series of tunnels, galleries, and cuttings. — Above 
0& l li M.) Choindez, and opposite the Glass Works of Roche, which 
lie on the right bank of the stream, we traverse a short tunnel and 



12 I. Route 2. VAL MOUTIER. From Bale 

reach (30 M.) Roche (1650' ; *Cheval Blanc, moderate). The trair. 
threads nine short tunnels, crosses the Birs by a lofty hridge, and 
then, at the mouth of the defile, the Raus. 

32M.Moutier, Ger. Mimster (1730'; Hotel de la Oare, moderate). 
The thriving village (1750'; *Cerf, R. 11/2-2, B. 1, D. 2% pens. 
5 fr. ; Couronne; Cheval, well spoken of), -with 3083 inhab. and a 
new Protestant church, is prettily situated in a green dale, on the 
left bank of the Birs. 

Ascent of the Weissenstein from Modtiee (3>/2 hrs.; comp. p. 18). 
About 10 min. to the N.E. ofMoutier, or 6 rain, from the station, a road 
(diligence to Cre'mines thrice daily in 50 min., thence to Gansbrunnen 
twite daily in 40 min.) ascends to the right to (2 M.) Grandval (2010') and 
(3/< M.) Cre'mines (2065'; Croix). It next ascends the gorge of the Raus to 
(2 M.) St. Joseph am Gansbrunnen (2150'; inn), at the N. base of the Weissen- 
stein, the hotel on which (p. 18) may easily be reached hence by a shady 
road in 2'/: hrs. Carriage from Jloutier to the Weissenstein 25 fr., there 
and back 30 fr. ; from Gansbrunnen 15 fr. — From Moutier a road leads 
to the W., via Perrefitte and Souboz, to the (9 M.) "Galerie du Pichmix (p. 11). 

The line traverses another very picturesque gorge, the Roches 
de Court, running high above the Birs, and beyond three tunnels 
reaches (35 1/ 2 M.) Court (2200'; Ours; Couronne). 

From Court, or better from Bivilard (see below), a steep path crosses 
the Montoz (4370') to (3 hrs.) Reuchenette (see below; guide advisable). 
View similar to that from the Weissenstein. 

We traverse pleasant grassy dales , pass Sorvilier, Malleray- 
Bevilard, and Reconvilier, and reach — 

43 M. Tavannes (2500'; Hotel de la Oare, R. i 1 ^, B. 1 fr., 
well spoken of; Brasserie, good restaurant with rooms), a large 
village near the source of the Birs (branch-line in 35 min. to 
Tramelan), The train ascends slightly and passes (tunnel, 1500 yds.) 
under the Pierre Pertuis, a natural opening in the rock, fortified 
in Roman times (inscription) , through which the highroad runs. 
It then descends the slope to the right, describes a sharp curve 
between Sombeval and Corgemont, and crosses the Suze or Schiiss. 

47 1 / 2 M. Sonceboz (2150'; *Rail. Restaurant; Couronne; Cerf, 
well spoken of), the junction for La Chaux-de-Fonds (see p. 232). 

The train again crosses the Suze, and passes through the S.W. 
spur of the Montoz (see above). The stream is crossed several times in 
its beautiful wooded valley. 50i/ 2 M. La Heutte (2015'); 53 M. 
Reuchenette (1940'; Hotel de laTruite). The line now turns S., and 
enters the narrow passage which the Suze has forced through the 
last heights of the Jura. Five tunnels between this point andBienne. 
On the right beyond the first tunnel is a fall of the Suze, and on the 
hill is the ruined chateau of Rondchdtel (1950'). Two more tunnels. 
Pleasant view of the green valley of Orvin to the right, with the 
Industrial village of Frinvillier (p. 13) at its mouth. Beyond 
another long tunnel the train crosses the deep and wild ravine of 
the Suze (1'aubenloch, see p. 13) by a lofty bridge, and quits the 
ravine. We now obtain a striking view of the rich plains of Bienne, 
with the whole of the Alpine chain from the mountains of Unter- 










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to Neuehdtel. BIENNE. I. Route 2. 13 

walden to Mont Blanc in the distance. We then descend vine-clad 
slopes and thread a shoit tunnel. 

56 M. Bienne. — Hotels. 'Hotel de Bienne et Terminus, near the 
station, E. from 2, B. iVjj, D. 3, S. 2'/2 fr.; 'Couronne, R. from 2, D. 3, 
S. 272 fr. ; Victoria, Hot. de Paris, both at the station; *H6t. Suisse, 
R. from 2'/'2, B. IV2, D. 3-3V2 fr. ; Croix ; Hot. de la Gare, near the station, 
R. 2-21/2, B. 1, D. 2V2 fr-, well spoken of. — Restaurants. "Rail. Restaurant; 
Augustinerbrau ; Central-Halle (Munich heer). 

Bienne, Ger. Biel (1405'), an ancient and thriving town (22,000 
inhab.) near the lake of the same name, has important watch- 
factories and is the seat of the W. Swiss Technical Institute. The 
Museum Schwab is an interesting collection of antiquities from lake- 
dwellings , Celtic and Roman weapons , implements , coins , etc. 
(adm. 50 c). The beautiful avenues enclosing the town stretch to 
the ( 1 /2M.)Lafce of Bienne (see below; lake-baths and rowing-boats). 

Tramway from the station into the town, to Nidau, and to the N. to 
(20 min.) Boujean, Ger. Bbzingen(Gevi; Cheval). An attractive walk leads 
hence through the picturesque 'Taubenloch-Schlucht, watered by the copi- 
ous Suze, to the 0/2 hr.) hamlet of Frinvillier (Restaurants des Gorges and 
de la Truite, good trout), and thence past the ruin of Rondchdtel to ( 3 /« hr.) 
the station of Reuchenette (p. 12). 

A Wire-Rope Railway (station 10 min. to the N.W. of the railway 
station at Bienne, where an omnibus is waiting) ascends in •/« hr. (80 c, 
return 1 fr.) to the health-resort of ffiacolin, Ger. Magglingen (2960 1 ; "Cur- 
haus, R. 4-7, B. I1/2, lunch 3>/2, D. 4, pens. 9-14 fr.; "HUel-Pens. Bellevue, 
pens. 6-10 fr. ; Pens. Wibmer, EStel-Pens. Magglingen, unpretending, pens. 
4-5 fr.), splendidly situated on the slopes of the Jura, 3 M. above Bienne. 
Large wooded grounds, and fine view of the Alps from the Sentis to Mont 
Blanc. English Church Service in August. 

Another wire-rope railway ascends from Bienne (station in the Quell- 
gasse) in 8 min. (50 c, return-fare 65 c.) to the village of Evilard, Ger. 
Leubringen (2312 1 ; "Cvrhaus Drei Tannen, R. 2-4, B. 1, D. 3, S. 2, pens. 5-7 fr. ; 
Restaurant & Pension Beaulieu), prettily situated IV2M. to theN.E. ofMacolin. 
Pleasant excursion (2 hrs.) hence through magnificent pine-woods or via 
Orvin (p. 12) to Frinvillier, and by the Taubenloch-Schlucht to Boujean 
(tramway to Bienne). — The ascent of the Chasseral (5280') takes about 
4 J /2 hrs. from Macolin. From the Curhaus a good path crosses the hill to 
the S.W. past the (IV2 hr.) Curhaus Twannberg (p. 14) to Lamboing, Diesse, 
and (1 hr.) Nods, at the S.E. foot of the mountain, which may be ascended 
hence in 2 hrs. (see p. 14). 

From Bienne to Soleure, see p. 19. 

From Biexxe to Bern, 21 M., railway in 50-70 min. (fares 3 fr. 55, 
2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 80 c). — The line crosses the broad Aare Canal beyond (2 M.) 
Briigg (Hot. du Pont) nnd the former bed of the Aare before reaching 
(5 M.) Busswil (hotel at the station). — 6'/4 M. lyss (Hirsch; Restaurant 
zur Post, Ritter, at the station) is the junction of the lines to Payerne on 
the S. (p. 242) and to Soleure on the N. (p. 19). — 8V2 M. Suberg ; 11 M. 
Schiipfen; 15 M. Miinchen-Buchsee (Hot. Kach; Krone; Bar). On the right 
the Bernese Alps from the Jungfrau to the Balmhorn become visible, but 
soon disappear. — 16^2 M. Zolliko/en, a station on the Central Line (Bale- 
Olten-Bern). Thence to (21 M.) Bern, see p. 20. 

To the S.W. of Bienne the train reaches the Lake of Bienne 
(1420' ; 972 M. long, 2»/2 M. broad), and then skirts its W. bank, 
affording in clear weather a survey of the Bernese Alps. — Beyond 
(60^2 M.) Douanne, Ger. Twann (*Ours), we pass a fall of the 
Twannbach. 



14 /. Route 2. NETJVEVILLE. 

A road ascends hence through the gorge of the Taannbach to the 
(I1/2 hr.) "Curhaus Twannberg (2865'; pens. 41/2-6 fr.), with view of the 
lakes of Bienne and Morat and the High Alps. Hence to Macolin (p. 13), 
I1/2 hr. ; to the top of the Chasseral (see below), 2'/2 hrs. 

62 M. Oleresse, Ger. Ligerz. 

To the left, in the lake, lies the Isle of St. Peter (1430 1 ), clothed with 
old oaks, vineyards, and fruit-trees, now connected on the S. side with the 
mainland near Cerlier. Rousseau spent two months here in 1765. (His 
room is shown in the Hotel.) Boat from Douanne or from Gleresse, there 
and back, 4, from Neuveville 6 fr. Steamboat in summer several times 
daily from Neuveville to Cerlier and (25 min.) the Isle of St. Peter. 

64!/ 2 M. Neuveville, Ger. Neuenstadt (pop. 2239; *Faucon, R. 
iy 2 -3, B. I1/4, D. 21/2, pens. 4i/ 2 -6fr.), a pleasant little town, 
the last in Canton Bern. The Museum, near the station (adm. 50 c), 
contains interesting antiquities from lake - dwellings (see below) 
and the Burgundian wars. On the Schlossberg (1750') , 20 min. 
from the station , rises a ruined castle of the Bishops of Bale (fine 
view from the top and on the way up). An erratic boulder near it 
bears an inscription to Lord Montagu, a benefactor of the town. 

To the N. of Neuveville rises the Chasseral or Gestler (52800, studded 
on the S. side with villages amid green meadows. Road fdiligence twice 
daily in 2Va hrs.) from Neuveville via Lignieres (2654'; *H6t.-Pens. Beau- 
Sejour, 4'/2-5 fr.) to (7!/2 M.) Nods (2916'), whence a steep road ascends to the 
(2 hrs.) Chalet-H6M du Chasseral (4790' ; 20 beds, plain). The view from the 
(2a min.) Signal (5280') embraces W. Switzerland, the Black Forest, the 
jura, and the Alps. — The ascent may also be made from Macolin (p. 13) 
in 4-4'/2 hrs., or from St. Imier (easiest) in 2V2-3 hrs. (see p. 233). 

The old town of Cerlier, or Erlach (Erie), with its chateau, lies op- 
posite Neuveville (steamboat in 10 min.), at the N. base of the wooded Joli- 
monl (I860'; '/« nr -)> a charming point of view. The 'Teufelsbiirde' is a 
group of large erratic blocks on the top. — On the E. bank of the 
lake, at LUscherz, and at Morigen, farther to the N., ma.ny remains of lake- 
dwellings have been discovered. 

Near (66 M.) Landeron (Hot. de la Poste) we quit the Lake of 
Bienne; the little town lies on the left, near the influx of the 
Thiele (or Zihl) Canal into the lake; beyond the Thiele is the 
abbey of St. Johannsen, now a penitentiary. 67 M. Cressier; 68 l fe M. 
Cornaux. — Tunnel. Near (71 */ 2 M.) St. Blaise the train Teaches 
the Lake of Neuch&tel (p. 228). 

74 M. Neuchatel (p. 229). 

3. From Bale to Bienne via Olten and Soleure. 

63 M. Railway in 3-4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 40, 6 fr. 60, 4 fr. 70 c). 
Bale, see p. 3. The train crosses the Birs. 3 M. Muttenz. On 

the Rhine , 1 M. to the N.W. , are the well equipped salt-baths 
of Schweizerhall (pens. 4-6 fr.). — 5*/ 2 M. Pratteln, the junction for 
Brugg and Zurich (p. 22). The line leaves the valley of the Rhine, 
enters the Jura Mts. , and follows the left bank of the Ergolz. Near 
(7i/ 2 M.) Nieder-Schonthal, on a hill to the right, lies Frenkendorf 
(1115'; Wilder Mann; Lowe), a pretty summer-resort. 

9M. Liestal (1080'; pop. 5390; *Falke, with salt-baths and 
garden, pens. 4 1 / 2 -5 1 / 2 fr.; *Engel; SMussel; Sonne; Hdt. de la Qare), 



SISSACH. /. Route 3. 15 

prettily situated on the Ergolz, is the seat of government of the half- 
canton of Basel -Land or Bale-Campagne. In the town-hall are a 
collection of coins and the cup of Charles the Bold, found in his tent 
after the battle of Nancy (1477). On the Schleifenberg, above the 
town to the N.E. (1970' ; 3 / 4 hr.), is an iron view-tower 98' in height, 
commanding a splendid panorama (adm. 20 c, Sun. 10 c). 

Bienenberg (1415' ; Cwhaus, with salt-baths), l l /i M. to the N.W. of 
Liestal, is a pleasant summer-resort, and about l'/2 M. beyond it is Bad 
Schauenburg (1590 1 ; pens. 4 J /2-8 fr.), below the ruin of the same name 
(1975 1 ; *View). Road to Nieder-Schonthal, see p. 14. 

To Waldenbukg, 8V2 M., narrow-gauge railway in 1 hr., through the 
pretty Frenken-T/ial.— 2 M.Bubendorf-Bad (1185'), with mineral and salt baths. 
(The village with its ruined castle lies 1 M. to the S.W.) 3'/2 M. Lampenberg ; 
5'/2 M. Hblstein (1410'), in a narrow part of the valley, with manufactories of 
silk ribbon. Passing Niederdorf and Oberdorf, we reach (81/2 M.) Walden- 
burg (1713'; Lowe; Schliissel), a little town with a ruined castle and a 
pretty church. A good road leads hence (diligence 4 times daily in 50 min.) 
to (3 M.) Langenbruck (2355' ; -Ctirhaus, pens. 5'/2-8 fr. ; Ochs, pens. 5 fr. ; 
Pens. Bidev), situated on the Obere Hauenstein , a quiet and pleasant hill- 
sanatorium. Excursions to the *Bblchenfluh (3695' ; l'/2 hr.), to Allerheiligen 
(2675'; 1 hr.), to the Schlosshbhe (2885'; 3 /i hr.), and to the SchwengiMMi 
(3216' ; 1 hr.), all of which are fine points of view. — A highroad leads from 
Langenbruck to the S.E. to Fridau and (5 M.) Egerkingen (p. 16); another 
to the S.W. via Holderbank and the picturesque ruin of Falkenstein to 
(7'/2 M.) Balsthal (1625' ; Kossli, Kreuz) , and a narrow-gauge railway thence 
through the (Ensinger Kins , a defile formerly fortified, with the rebuilt 
chateau of Blauenstein, to (3 M., in 12 min.) (Ensingen (p. 16). On the hill 
to the left is the restored chateau of Bechburg. 

10'/2 M. Lausen. — Near (13 M.) Sissach (1235'; Lowe), a thriv- 
ing little town (2800 inhab.), we pass (r.) the small chateau and park 
of Ebenrain. Fine view from the Sissacher Fluh (23050, 1 hr. to the N. 

From Sissach oveb the Schapmatt to Aabau (4 l /2 hrs.). Electric 
tramway via Bockten in l /t hr. to (2'/2 M.) Gellerkinden (1328'; ''Eossli), a 
manufacturing village with 2030 inhab.; thence road through the peaceful 
valley of the Eibach to (IV2 M.) Tecknau (1440'), beyond which the road 
ascends to the left ; IV2 M. Wenslingen (I860') ; l'/2 M. Oltingen (1940' ; 
Ochs), with a mineral spring. The path ascending the ( 3 /ihr.) 'Schafmatt 
(2615') diverges close to the 'Ochs', and is easily found (finger-posts). The 
summit commands an extensive panorama of the Jura and the Alps, which 
we enjoy until we reach a point overlooking the deep valley of Rohr. 
Turning to the left here, we reach the upper part of a meadow, at the 
foot of which (1/2 hr. from the summit) lies the farm-house of Barmelhof 
(2165'; rfmts.). From this point we enjoy a view of the environs of the 
Lake of Lucerne, the Eigi, Pilatus, etc. From the Barmelhof to Aarau 
(p. 25) by road in f/4 hr., via the Klus (in a side-valley to the left lies 
the Laurenzenbad, p. 25), Ober-Erlisbach, and Unter-Erlisbach. 

To the S. of Sissach lies (7 M. ; diligence twice daily in f/4 hr.) 
Eptingen (1873'; *Curhaui, with saline and mineral baths, pens. 4-5 fr.), 
situated in a narrow valley at the base of the Hauenstein (footpath to 
Laufelfingen, see below, 1 hr.; to Langenbruck, see above, IV4 hr.). 

The train turns to the S. into the narrow Homburger-Thal, and 
beyond (15^2 Wl.^Sommerau passes through two tunnels. — lS^M. 
Laufelfingen (1830'; Sonne), at the foot of the Hauenstein. 

From stat. Laufelfingen a road (one-horse carr. 5 fr.) ascends in 3 /4 hr. 
via Wisen to the 'Frohburg (2700'; -Hotel & Pension , B. 2 l /2, B. l'/4, pens. 
5-6 fr.), situated on the summit of the Hauenstein and commanding a 
beautiful view of the Alps, from the Sentis to Mont Blanc; in the fore- 



16 I. Route 3. OLTEN. From Bait 

ground, the Wartburg (see below) and the Wigger-Thal with the railway to 
Lucerne; on the right rises Pilatus, on the left the Rigi. About 10 min. 
from the inn are some scanty ruins of a castle (2770 1 ). Descent by Trimbach 
in 1 hr. to Olten. 

Beyond the Hauenstein Tunnel (2970 yds. ; 5 min.) we observe 
on a hill to the right the Neu - Wartburg (see below), to the right 
of which, farther on, the Bernese Alps gradually become visible from 
the Wetterhorn to the Doldenhorn, with the Jungfrau in the middle 
(comp. Panorama, p. 161). The train descends by a long curve to 
the Aare, crosses it, and ascends on the right bank to — 

241/2 M. Olten. — 'Hotel Suisse, E. 2-3, B. 1, D. 2'/ 2 fr. ; Hutei. 
Terminus Fbohbdrg; St. Gotthakd, unpretending, all at the station; 
Halbmond, well spoken of. — "Rail. Restaurant. 

Carriages generally changed here. Detention of '/i-'Ai hr. As we leave 
the waiting-rooms, the trains for Bale and Zurich are to the left, those for 
Lucerne and Bern to the right. Pocket-picking not uncommon here. 

Olten (1310'; 7000 inhab.), prettily situated on the Aare, is the 
junction of the lines (0 Aarau and Brugg (R. 7), to Aarburg and 
Lucerne (R. 5) , to Bern (R. 4), and to Soleure and Neuchatel (see 
below). The Parish Church contains an Ascension by Distfeli, and 
the Capuchin Church a Madonna by Deschwanden. Extensive rail- 
way-workshops and large shoe-manufactories. 

To the S.E. of Olten, on an isolated hill on the right bank of the Aare, 
rises the Neu-Wartburg or Sdlischloss (2190'; Restaurant), a small chateau 
with a fine view of the Alps from the Sentis to the Jungfrau. Good 
paths from Olten and from Aarburg to the top in 3 /< nr - 

About 4>/2 M. to the N.E. of Olten (diligence twice daily in summer 
in IV4 hr.) are the sulphur-baths of Lostorf (lti40' ; "Curhaus, E. f-2'/z, 
pens. 5 fr.), prettily situated at the foot of the Jura. On a cliff above 
O/4 hr.) rises the small chateau of Wartenfels (2060'), with a fine view. 

The train crosses the Aare and traverses the plain watered by 
the Dunnern, at the base of the Jura. To the left the view of the 
Alps from the Gl'arnisch to the Altels is gradually unfolded. 26 M. 
Olten- Hammer; 27 1/2 M. Wangen; 29 M. Hagendorf. — 31 M. 
Egerkingen (Kreuz, in the. village, 3 / 4 M. to the N.). 

Diligence twice daily in 3 / 4 hr. to Fridau (2180 1 ; 'Curhaus, pens. 6V2-8 fr.), 
situated on the slope of the Jura, and well fitted up. Beautiful view of 
the Alps from the Sentis to llont Blanc. Shady grounds and extensive 
wood-walks. — The road leads on to Langenbruck, i M. farther (see 
p. 15; diligence in summer daily). 

32 M. Oberbuchsiten ; 36 M. GEnsingen (1520'; steam-tramway 
to Balsthal, p. 15); 37 M. Niederbipp (to the right is Oberbipp, with 
a handsome modern chateau). At (41 M.) Wangen we cross the Aare. 
43 M. Deitingen. Near (45 M.) Luterbach, on the left bank of the 
Aare, lies Bad Altisholz, with iron and sulphur springs (pens. 
4-4 1 /2 fr.). Farther on, we obtain a view of Soleure; to the right is 
the Weissenstein (p. 18). The train crosses the Emme, not far from 
its confluence with the Aare. — 47'/ 2 M. Neu-Solothurn. 

Soleure. — Soleure has two Railway Stations : Neu-Solothurn, on 
(he right bank of the Aare, for the lines to Olten, Herzogenbuchsee, 
Burgdorf, Lyss, and Bienne ; and All-Solothurn, on the left bank, to the 
W. of the town, for the line to Bienne. 



to Bienne. SOLEURE. I. Route 3. 17 

Hotels. In the town , on the left bank: "Keone, R. 272-5, B. l'/e, 
D. 3, S. 2Vz tr. ; "Stokoh, on the Aare ; Hirsch ; Eothee Thuem. — At 
the Neu-Solothurn station : Hotel Metropole ; "Hotel Teeminus et de 
la Gake, R. l 1 /^ B. 1 fr. 5 farther on, on the right hank, Hotel Jura; 
"Adlee, R. P/i-Wfa, B - lj D. 2!/ 2 fr. ; Schwan, well spoken of; Falke. — 

Soleure, ox Solothurn(l£2b' ■ 10,030 inhab.), the capital of Canton 
Soleure, on the Aare, the Roman Salodurum, claims to be the oldest 
town on this side of the Alps next to Treves. ( l In Celtis nihil est 
Salodoro antiquius, unis exceptis Treveris, quarum ego dicta soror', 
is the inscription on the clock-tower.) It was incorporated with the 
Confederation in 1481 . 

The Cathedbal op St. Oubs , the cathedral of the Bishopric of 
Bale (p. 4), was built in the florid Italian style in 1762-73 by 
Pisoni, on the site of an edifice of 1050. A flight of 36 steps leads 
to the facade , adjoined by fountains with statues of Moses and 
Gideon. The treasury, in the sacristy, contains good artistic work 
in metal and textile fabrics (14-18th cent.). 

The *Absenal, not far from the cathedral, contains an inter- 
esting collection of ancient armour and weapons. Among the curio- 
sities are the shield of Philippe le Bon and a mitrailleuse of the 
15th century. A large plastic group represents the reconciliation of 
the Confederates effected at the Diet of Stans in 1481 by Brother 
Klaus (p. 148). — Near the arsenal is the Town Hall, built in 
1476, with a Renaissance facade of the 17th century. The 'Stone 
Hall' on the first floor contains old stained glass and various curio- 
sities. In the N. tower is an ingenious winding staircase of 1632. 

The Clock Towbk, built about 1250 and recently restored, has a 
clock with figures and mechanism resembling those at Bern (p. 162). 
Below the dial is the Latin distich mentioned above, by Glareanus. 

In the promenades on the N. side of the town is the Municipal 
Museum, built in 1898-1900 by Schlatter (open daily, except Wed- 
nesday). On the groundfloor are the Natural History Cabinet (inter- 
esting fossils from the Jura) and the Archaeological Collection, with 
prehistoric, Roman, and Alemannian antiquities found in the environs 
of Soleure. The first floor contains mediseval antiquities from the 
Burgundian epoch, stained glass, miniatures, and coins, and also 
the Picture Gallery. Among the good early works in the last are a 
"Virgin and Child, with SS. Ours and Martin of Tours, one of the 
chief works of Holbein the Younger (1522, much restored), and the 
'*Madonna of the strawberries' [Cologne School, about 1420). The 
Geographical Collection contains views of old Soleure, etc. — In 
the Town Hall is the Municipal Library (40,000 vols.), and in the 
Cantonal School is the Cantonal Library (30,000 vols.), both with 
interesting MSS. and incunabula. 

To the "W. of the Museum are the Saalbau, built by Schlatter in 
1900, for concerts, assemblies, etc., and the Protestant Church. — 
The Public Fountains of Soleure also deserve mention (comp. p. 162), 
such as the St. Georgs-Brunnen in the Bbrsen-Platz and the Fisch- 

Baedekeb, Switzerland. 19th Edition. 2 



18 I.Route3.—Map,p.l-J. WEISSENSTEIN. 

brunnen, with a statue of St. Ursus, in the Marktplatz (both of the 
16th cent.). 

The "Weissenstein (4220'; comp. Map, p. 12), 9M. to the N. of Soleure, 
is a very favourite point of view. It is reached either by the road (diligence 
at 7.50 a.m., returning at 5.30 p. m.^ fare 3 fr. ; two-horse carr. in 2'/^ hrs., 
20, there and back 25 fr. and fee) via Ldngendorf and (3 M.) Oberdorf (2130' ; 
•Hot. Bellevue, pens 4-5 fr.) , or (preferable) by the footpath (guide or 
porter 4-5 fr.) ascending the Verena-Thal. Taking the latter (numerous 
guide-posts), we pass the cathedral of St. Ours, quit the town by the hand- 
some Bale gate (built in 15U4-8), and then bear to the left towards the Villa 
Carlier with its two towers, where we turn to the right. Farther on we 
enter the avenue to the left, at the end of which we turn to the right 
towards the church of St. Nicholas. Before reaching the church our route 
passes the Restaurant Wengistein and turns to the left into the "St. Verena- 
Thal (1 SI. from Soleure), a narrow, cool, and shady ravine, Vj m - in length. 
The path to the left, at the beginning of the gorge, leads to the Wengistcin 
(see below). At the exit of the valley are quarries of Portland limestone, 
where interesting fossils are found. The blocks of granite on the neigh- 
bouring slopes are believed by geologists to have been deposited by ancient 
Alpine glaciers. At the N. end of the ravine is the Hermitage of St. Verena 
(1620'). On the right are the hermit's dwelling and a chapel; on the left is a 
rock-hewn chapel, reached by a broad flight of steps, and containing a repre- 
sentation of the Holy Sepulchre with lifesize figures. We may now ascend 
by the chapel to the crosses, pass near the large quarries (with 'Gletseher- 
schliffe'', or rocks worn by the action of the glaciers), anil traverse the wood 
to the Wengistein, the view from which is similar to that from the Weissen- 
stein, though on a smaller scale. A huge granite boulder here bears a Latin 
inscription recording two memorable events in the history of Soleure. 

From the restaurant beyond the hermitage we take to the right, in 
the direction of the Weissenstein ; at (10 min.) the village of Widlisbaeh 
we turn to the left to (12 min.) the hamlet of Fallern (1827'), at the foot 
of the Weissenstein. Above it we enter the wood to the left, by a finger- 
post, ascend gradually, and then in steep zigzags to the (40 min.) first 
bench, above which there are several others. Tlie path soon quits the wood 
and ascends an abrupt rocky gully, partly by steps. Farther up, the ascent 
is through wood and more gradual. In 40 min. we regain the road (to the 
left) at the Nesselboden Alp (3447'), and, following it, reach in 40 min. 
(short-cut to the left) the Curhaus on the Vordere Weissenstein (4220'; I!.. 
3-4, B. U/4, D. 3, S. 272, pens. 7-12 fr.; telephone to Soleure), a sanatorium 
surrounded by woods and pastures, and much resorted to in summer (Engl. 
Church Service). 

The 'View is less picturesque, but more extensive than that from 
the Rigi; and no spot commands a better view of the whole Alpine 
chain from Tyrol to Mont Blanc. To the E. are the Sentis, the Gliirnisch, 
with the Rigi in the foreground, the Todi between the Rigi and Pilatus, the 
lofty saddle of Titlis, and the Sustenhorn ; beyond Soleure, the Wetterhorn 
and Schreckhorn, the Finsteraarhorn, Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, Bliimlisalp, 
and Doldenhorn; then the Balmhorn, Altels, Wildstrubel, Wildhorn, Dia- 
blerets, and to the S. Mont Blanc. To the S.W. glitter the lakes of Bienne, 
Morat, and Ueuchatel ; the Aare winds to the S. through the fertile plains, 
and the Emme flows into it at the foot of the mountain. 

Pleasant walk to the S.W. through the wood to the (10 min.) Kanzeli 
(4093'). — The Rothi (4590'), V« nr - to the E - of the hotel, commands an 
extensive view to the N. and E. of the Black Forest and Vosges, which 
are hidden from the Weissenstein, and of the picturesque mountains and 
valleys of the Jura (below it, to the E., is the Curhaus Balmber^, p. 19). — 
Towards the W. the view is concealed by the 'Hasenmatt (4745 1 ), l'/a hr. 
from the hotel, whence an uninterrupted panorama may be enjoyed. The 
path to it (white marks) leads across the pastures to the W. to (25 min.) 
the Hinlere Weissenstein (4027'; inn). A pleasanter route leads by the shady 
footpath, which enters the woods to the right above the pastures, but 
this must be quitted as soon as it begins to ascend more steeply. Shortly 



HERZOGENBUCHSEE. J. Route 4. 1 9 

before reaching the Hintere Weissenstein we descend a little to the left 
_and cross the ridge to (20 min.) the end of the meadows ; then descend 
"for 1 /t hr. in the Ketselwald, and ascend across pastures to (20 min.) the 
chalet of Allhiisli (4375' ; simple rfmts.)> on the saddle, with a good spring. 
An easy path leads hence to the summit in 20 min. (the path diverging 
to the left, 10 min. before the chalet,, is shorter but steeper). — We 
may descend from the Hasenmatt or the chalet on the S. side, pass Lom- 
miswil, and regain Soleure, or the nearer station of Selzach (see below). 
Those returning from the Curhaus to Soleure follow the road from Fal- 
lern (p. 18) to O/2 M.) a sign-post with four arms, whence a path between 
pine-woods and. large quarries brings them in l /i hr. to the N.W. gate 
of Soleure. Or, at the Nesselboden Alp (p. 18) we may take the red-marked 
path to the right, which reaches the road at the Webernhiisli, above Ober- 
dorf. (From the Webernhiisli another red-marked path leads to the Hintere 
Weissenstein, 1^2 hr.) Carriages may also be directed to return by a 
route affording an opportunity of visiting the St. Verena gorge. 

About 7 M. to the N.E. of Soleure, on the slope of the Weissenstein, 
is the Curhaus Ober-Balmberg (3280), a health-resort in a well-sheltered 
site. Carriage-road from Soleure via Widlisbacli (p. 18), Qallmoos, and 
Balm (2165') to the cement-mills in the gorge of the Siggeren-Bach, and 
bridle-path thence to the hotel. From Balmberg a shady path leads past 
the Rothi (p. 18) to the (1 hr.) Curhaus Weissenstein. — About 4'/2 M. to 
the E. of Soleure (carriage-road via, Balm, see above, and the village of 
Ounsberg) is the Cdkhaus Glutzenbebg (2460'; plain, pens, 'i'lt-i 1 /^ fr.), 
finely situated at the foot of the Stierenberg (4035'). 

J^rom Soleure to Herzogenbuchsee, see p. 20. 

Fbom Soledbe to Buegdobf (13 M.) by the Emmen-Thal railway in 
40-50 minutes. The principal station is (7 M.) Utzenstorf, the largest village 
in the lower Emmen-Thal. Burgdorf, see p. 20. 

Feom Soleore to Ltss (15'/2 M.) by railway, skirting the right bank of 
the Aare, in l-l'/z hour. The chief intermediate station is (10 M.) Biiren 
(Krone), a small town with an old chateau, 3 M. to the E. of which are 
the baths of Liiterswil (2100'; pens. 4-41/2 fr.), with mineral springs and 
pleasant wood-walks. — Lyss, see p. 13. 

The Bienne line crosses the Aare. 48 M. Alt-Solothurn (p. 16) ; 
51 M. Selzach, where passion-plays are performed every three 
years (1901, 1904, etc.); 54 M. Qrenchen or Oranges (*Curhaus 
Bachtelen, pens. 5-8 fr.), with 5198 inhab. and large watch-factories ; 
57 M. Pieterlen. — 63 M. Bienne, see p. 13. 



[4. From Bale to Bern via Aarburg. 

66 M. Railway in JJVs-i 1 /* h ™- (fares 11 fr. 80, 8 fr. 5, 5 fr. 75 c). 

To (241/2 M.) Olten, see pp. 14-16. The line skirts the light 
bank of the Aare ; to the left, the chateau of Neu- Wartburg (p. 16). 

27 M. Aarburg (1285'; *Krone ; Falke~), a picturesquely situated 
little town (2300 inhab.), on the Aare (junction for Lucerne, p. 21). 
The old castle on a hill, built in 1660, is now a factory. 

As we proceed we have glimpses of the Alps, right and left. 
30 M. Bothrist ; 33 M. Murgenthal, where we cross the Murg; 35 M. 
Roggwil; 37'/ 2 M. Langenthal (*Bar, R. 1 1/2-2, B. 1 , D. 2, S. 
II/2 fr. ; Lowe), a prosperous village with a busy timber- trade 
(narrow-gauge line to Wolhusen, see p. 154); 39^2 M. Biitzberg. 

42 M. Herzogenbuchsee (1540'; 2532 inhab.; *Sonne; H6t. de 
la Qare~) is a considerable place, with a loftily situated church. 

2* 



20 I. Route 4. BURGDORF. 

To Soleoee (9V2 M.) railway in 40 min.: 2>/2 M. Inkuil; 5'/« M. Su- 
bigen; 7 M. Derendingen; then across the Emrnt to Neu-Sololhurn (p. 16), 

Near (45 M.) Riedtwil we enter a grassy valley with wooded 
slopes. Beyond (48 M.) Winigen a tunnel (560 yds.). The train 
crosses the Emme to — 

52 M. Burgdorf, Fr. Berthoud (1750'; pop. 8390; *H6t. Ouggis- 
berg, with garden, R. 2-272) B. 1, D. 3 fr. ; H6t. de la (fare, these 
two at the station ; Maison de Ville ; Ours) , a busy town , pictur- 
esquely situated. The houses are flanked with arcades, as at Bern. 
The public buildings, the hospital, schools, orphanage, and technical 
institute are highly creditable. In the chateau of Burgdorf, in 1798, 
Pestalozzi established his famous school, which he removed to Yver- 
don in 1804 ; in the court is a memorial tablet with his portrait in 
relief. The Knights' Hall contains a Historical Collection , mainly 
of local interest (adm. 40 c). Beautiful views from the church and 
chateau; finer from the Rachisberg (2770'), li^hr. to the S.E. 
(see below), and from the Lueg (2885'), 2 hrs. to the E. 

From Burgdorf to Langnau, 14 M., railway in 3 /t-l hr. The line 
ascends the fertile Emmen-Thal. — 2'/2 M. Oberburg; 4>/s M. Hasle-Kalchofen, 
whence the Rachisberg (see above) may be ascended via RUegsau in l l /« hr. 
— 61. LiitzelflUh-Qoldbach. Lutzellliih (Ochs) was the home of the pastor 
Albert Bitzius (d. 1854), a popular author well known as Jeremias Gotthelf, 
to whom a monument was recently erected here. Near Liitzelfluh, to the 
N.W., is the Britterribad (1640'), with chalybeate springs. — 7'/2 M. Ramsey- 
Sumiswald; 10 M. Zollbruck. — 14 M. Langnau (p. 156). 

From Bcegdobf to Thon , 25 M., electric railway in l'/s hr. (fares 
2 fr. 90, 2 fr. 5 c). The line follows the Emmen-Thal Railway to (41/2 M.) 
Hasle-Kalchofen (see above) and then diverges to the right into the peaceful 
Bigen-Thal , with its woods and meadows, passing Schafhausen and Bigen- 
thal. 10 M. Wallcringen (2300'; Bar), a pleasant village at the head of the 
valley. From (12 M.) Biglen (2475'; "Hotel Bahnhof; Bar) we may a?cend 
the P/4 hr.) Oummegg (31900, a fine point of view. The line threads two 
short tunnels. — From (14 M.) Gross- HSchstetten (2510'; Lowe; Stern), an 
interesting type of an Emmen-Thal village, a good footpath ascends to 
(1 hr.) the top of the * Wacht (3000') , affording an extensive view of the 
Alps. — At (16 M.) Konolfingen- Stalden we intersect the railway from Lu- 
cerne to Bern (p. 156). Farther on we de-cend the Kiesenbach- Thai to 
(17 M.) Stalden- Dorf and (19'/2 M.) Ober-Diesbach (2015'; Bar; Lowe), the 
latter a pretty village with an old castle, at the E. base of the Falkenfluh 
(p. 168). The next stations are (20'/2 M.) Brenzikofen and the scattered 
village of (23 M.) Heimberg, with its potteries. 23'/z M. Steffitburg (p. 171) 
lies to the left of the line. — 25 M. Thun, see p. 169. 

From Burgdorf to Soleure, see p. 19. 

54*/2 M. Lissach. Beyond (56 M.) Hindelbank a monument, to 
the left of the railway, commemorates the battle between the Bern- 
ese and the French in the Orauholz, 6th March, 1798. — 59 M. 
Schonbiihl. Beyond (61 V2M.) Zollikofen (junction for Bienne, p. 13) 
the train crosses the iron Worblaufen Bridge (below, to the right, 
the handsome Tiefenau Bridge over the Aare) and then ascends 
through a cutting to the Wyler Feld, where, to the left, we obtain a 
magnificent view of the Bernese Alps. To the right is the suburb 
of Lorraine , beyond which we cross the Aare by a bridge 200 yds. 
long and 142' high. To the right is the imposing Kornhaus Bridge 
(p. 163). — 66 M. Bern, see p. 160. 



21 
5. From Bale to Lucerne via. Olten. 

59 M. Railway in 2-4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 35, 7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 20 c). 

To Olten and (27 M.) Aarburg, the junction for Bern (R. 4), 
see p. 19. The Lucerne line traverses the broad grassy' Wigger-Thal. 

30 M. Zofingen (1430'; pop. 4580; ffitel-Pens. Rdmerbad; 
Rossli; Ochs), a busy little town. The library in the Town Hall 
contains coins , autographs of Swiss reformers, and the album of a 
society of artists, founded in 1806, which formerly met at Zofingen. 
On the branches of the fine old lime-trees near the Schiitzenhaus 
are two 'ball-rooms'. In the Bleichegut, near the town, are the 
remains of a Roman bath. 

Feom Zofingen to Suhb, railway in 36 minutes. Stations : Safenwyl, 
KBUiken, Entfelden, well-to-do villages, and (10'/2 M.) Suhr, the junction 
for Aarau and Baden (p. 26). 

33 M. Reiden, an old lodge of the Knights of Malta, now a par- 
sonage. 35 M. Dagmersellen ; 37 M. Nebikon. To the right appear 
the Bernese Alps ; in the centre the Jungfrau , the Monch and Eiger 
to the left of it, and the Altels to the right. Beyond (40 M.) Wau- 
wil the little Mauensee, with its island and castle, lies on the right. 

43 M. Sursee (1690'; pop. 2597; Sonne; Hirsck), an old town, 
over whose gates the double eagle of Hapsburg is still enthroned. 
The Town Hall recalls the Burgundian style. — About 3*/2 M. to 
the N.E. (omnibus, 3 fr.) are the chalybeate baths of Knutwil 
(pens. 41/2-5V2 fr.). 

Near (46^2 M.) Nottwil we approach the Lakeof Sempach (1663'), 
5 M. long, I1/2 M. broad, and abounding in fish. On a hill to the 
right rises Schloss Wartensee. — 49*/2 M. Sempach-Neuenburg . The 
small town of Sempach (pop. 1097; Kreuz; Adler, moderate) lies 
I7.2 M. to the N., on the S.E. bank. Near Sempach Duke Leopold 
of Austria was signally defeated on 9th July, 1386 , by the Swiss 
Confederates , owing , as the story goes, to the noble self-sacrifice 
of Arnold von Winkelried. The duke and 263 of his knights were 
slain. A column surmounted by a lion was erected near the church 
in 1886 on the 500th anniversary of the victory. 

A Chapel (2064 1 ), IV2 M. to the N.E. of Sempach, marks the spot where 
Leopold fell. His uncle, another Duke Leopold, had been defeated by the 
Swiss 71 years before at Morgarten (p. 93). The anniversary is still kept. 

The train intersects plantations of firs. On the right appear the 
bold cliffs and peaks of Pilatus ; on the left the long crest of the 
Rigi; between these tower the snowy Alps (see p. 96). 53 M. Rothen- 
burg ; 56 M. Emmenbrucke (Hotel Emmenbriicke ; Restaurant See- 
thal), junction of the 'Seethal' line to Lenzburg (p. 158). The line 
crosses the Emme, above its confluence with the Reuss, and follows 
the latter, being joined on the left by the Zurich and Lucerne line 
(p. 93), and on the right by the Bern and Lucerne line (p. 155). 
Lastly it passes through a tunnel under the Qutsch (p. 98) and 
another under the hill of Schonheim, and, describing a wide curve, 
enters the station of (59 M.) Lucerne (see p. 94). 



22 

6. From Bale to Zurich via Brugg. 

55 M. Railway in 2-4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 40, 6 fr. 60, 4 fr. 75 c.). 

To (5 M.) Pratteln, see p. 14. Near (7y 2 M.) Basel- Augst, 
picturesquely situated, we cross the Ergolz and approach the Rhine ; 
to the left is Kaiser-Augst, the Roman Augusta Bauracorum (p. 4), 
with an old church. 

10'/.2 M. Rheinfelden. — 'Grand H3tel des Salines, 5 min. above 
the town, with, dependances, R. 2'/2-6, B. l'/j, D. 4, S. 2 3 /«, pens. 8-12, 
omn. 1 fr. (closed in winter) ; "Hotel Dietschy, with terrace on the Rhine, 
R. 2-3>/2, B. li/<. D - 3, S. 21/4, pens. 6-10, omn. »/* fr- 5 'Hotel Soolbad 
zum Schdtzen, with garden, R. l»/2-3, B. 1, D. 21/2, 8. l'/i, pens. 6-7i/ 2 , 
omn. 1/2 fr. ; 'Dreikonig, with garden, pens. 5 fr. ; Engel, pens. 4-6 fr.; 
Schiff, R. IV2-2, B. 1, D. 21/2, pens. 4-6 fr., all with salt-baths; Hot. Kahn- 
hof. — On the right bank of the Rhine, "Bellevue, well situated, R. 
l l /2-2 fr., B. 80 c, D. 2 fr. ; Obekrheinischee Hof. — Beer at the Restauruut 
Rheinlust, prettily situated near the salt-works, about 1 M. from the town, 
and at the FeldschlSischen Restaurant, Haupt-Str. — English Church Sek- 
vice in summer. 

Rheinfelden (886'; pop. 3350), an old town, once strongly for- 
tified, with walls and towers partly preserved, was one of the out- 
posts of the Holy Roman Empire. After repeated sieges it was razed 
by the French in 1744. Since 1801 it has belonged to Switzerland. 
The river here dashes over the rocks , forming the Hollenhaken 
rapids. Near the town are extensive salt-works on the Rhine. 

We quit the Rhine, which here bends to the N., pass (13 M. ) 
Mohlin (*H6t.Sonnenberg, pens. 4-6 fr.) and (17M.) Af«mp/"(*Sonne, 
with saline baths, R. iife-^fa, board 4 fr. ; Anker), and then return 
to the river for a short time. — I872 M. Stein (990'; *L6we), 
connected by a covered bridge with Sackingen (p. 27). 

From Stein to Coblenz, 16 M., railway in 3 /« hr. The line skirts the 
left bank of the Rhine; stations: Sisseln, Lavfenburg (p. 27), Suit, Etzgen, 
Schwaderloch, Leibstatt, Felsencm; then across the Aare to Coblenz (p. 26). 

"We quit the Rhine, and at (20^2 M.) Eiken enter the fertile 
Sisseln-Thal. 23 M. Frick (1120'; Adler; Engel), a large village. 
The train ascends in a long curve to (26 M.) Hornussen (1275'). 
28'/2 M. Effingen (1425'), the highest point on the line. Then a 
tunnel (2697 yds.; 4 min.) under the Botzberg (1945'), the Roman 
Mons Vocetius. 30^2 M. Bottenegg. The train descends, affording 
a magnificent view of the valley of the Aare with the Hapsburg to the 
right, and, in clear weather, of the St. Gall, Glarus, and Schwyz Alps, 
and crosses the Aare by a bridge 259 yds. long and 104' high. 

36 M. Brugg (1115'; pop. 2640; *Hdt. Central, near the rail, 
station, R. 2-3, B." 1, D. 21/2 fr- ; Rothes Haus ; Rossli; Hot. Bahn- 
hof, opposite the rail, station, with restaurant and garden, well 
spoken of ; Restaurant St. Ootthard, near the rail, station, good 
beer), an antiquated Jittle town, the junction of lines to Aarau and 
to Wohlen - Bremgarten (R. 7), is best surveyed from the bridge 
over the Aare, here hemmed in by rocks. In the main street, to 
the left, is the house in which Pestalozzi died. The 'Schwarze Thurm', 
by the bridge, dates from the later Roman Empire; the upper part 



BADEN. /. Route 6. 23 

was rebuilt in the 15th century. Adjacent is the Town Hall, with 
good modern frescoes. A school adjoining the parish - church is 
adorned with interesting frescoes of 1640 (refreshed in 1885). 

The ancient Abbey of Konigsfelden (}/ t M. to the S.E. of Brugg), for- 
merly a convent of Minorites, was founded in 1310 by the Empress Eliza- 
beth and her daughter, Queen Agnes of Hungary, on the spot where 
Albert of Austria, husband of the former, had been murdered two years 
before (1308) by John of Swabia and his accomplices. It was secularized in 
1528; the building was converted into a hospital, and in 1872 into a lunatic 
asylum (now installed in a large new building). Of the old buildings there 
nnw remain the S. part only, the church, and the dwelling of Queen Agnes. 
From the rail, station of Brugg a road leads to O/3 M.) the entrance to 
the park of Konigsfelden, most of which is surrounded by an iron fence 
5 ft. high. In 1 min. more we reach the large building of the lunatic 
asylum, where we ring and receive from the manager a ticket of admis- 
sion to the Convent Church (50 c). The latter, which lies 200 yds. to the 
S. (finger-post) and is shown by the custodian (ring), was thoroughly re- 
stored in 1890-98. Along the inside walls are 35 tombstones with the ar- 
morial bearings of Bernese bailiffs who died at Konigsfelden. On the E. 
wall are 27 modern and artistically insignificant portraits of the chief 
knights who fell at Sempach (1356), some of them reproductions of frescoes 
still extant in the room of Queen Agnes (see above). In the middle is 
Duke Leopold of Austria. The choir, adorned with stained glass of the 
14-15th cent., was used for service down to the middle of the 19th century. 

On the tongue of land between the Reuss and the Aare once stood 
the considerable Helvetian town of Vindonissa , which in the early cent- 
uries of the Christian era was the headquarters of a Roman legion with its 
Rhaetian cohorts, as is proved by inscriptions. About 1/2 M. to the S. of 
Konigsfelden the foundation walls of the amphitheatre, which could contain 
10,000 persons, were laid bare by excavation in 1897. The external dia- 
meters measured 344 ft. and 325 ft. ; those of the arena were 221 ft. and 
177 ft. The well of the Abbey of Konigsfelden is still fed by a subterranean 
Roman conduit, which has been repaired in modern days. The name of Vin- 
donissa, which was destroyed in the 5th cent., still survives in that of the 
village of Windisch, I1/4 M. to the E. of Brugg. 

The Hapsburg (p. 26) is also often visited from Brugg. The road 
leads, partly through wood, to (3 M.) the village of Habsburg (1555' ; carr. 
from Brugg 6, with two horses 10 fr.), whence a footpath ascends to (5 min.) 
the castle. 

From Brugg to Wohleh, 11 M., railway in 40 minutes. — A little to 
the W. of (3 M.) Birr/eld is the village of Birr, with the grave of Pesta- 
lozzi; and about V2 M - to the S.E. of Birr is the manor of Neuhof, where 
he long lived and worked. — 5 l /2 M. Othmarsingen (junction for Wettingen 
and Aarau, p. 26); 7 1 h M. Hendschiken (p. 26); 8V2 M. Dintilcen (p. 26); 
11 M. Wohlen-Villmergen. (To Rothkreuz, see p. 26.) 

We cross the Reuss near its union with the Aare, and reach the 
Limmat beyond (38 M.) Turgi, the junction of the lines to Aarau 
and Waldshut (p. 26). 

A good path leads hence to the S., chiefly through wood, to the ( 3 /4 hr.) 
Gebenstorfer Horn (1710'), which commands a fine view of the Jura, the 
Black Forest, and the confluence of the Aare, Reuss, and Limmat. 

41 M. Baden (1256'; pop. 6050; *H6tel de la Gare, R. l 3 / 4 -2, 
B. 1, D. 2 l /2, pens. 5-6 fr.; *Balance, R. 11/2-2, B. 1, D. 2, pens. 
6^2 fr.) was much visited even in Roman times for its mineral 
springs (Aquae Helvetiae). In the middle ages it was a fortress, 
and down to the 15th cent, often the residence of the Counts of 
Hapsburg. The extensive ruins of the castle of Stein zu Baden 
(1505Q, destroyed in 1415 and again in 1712, rise above the town 



24 I. Jloutee. BADEN. 

(}li hr. from the station); pretty view from the top and from the 
adjacent Cafe Belvedere. 

The hot mineral springs (98°-126° Fahr.) are in the narrow valley 
of the Limmat (1190'), 5 min. to the N. of the station, V2 M - fr° m the 
town. The l Small Baths' (Adler; Hirseh; Rebstock; Schwan; Stern), 
in Ennetbaden, on the right hank of the Limmat, are chiefly fre- 
quented hy the peasantry ; the l 6reat Baths' (* Grand H6tel, pens. 
9-12 fr., with Engl. Ch. Serv. in summer ; *Schiff, pens. 71/2-IO fr. ; 
* Verenahof, *Limmathof, 7-9 fr. ; Blume, 61/2-8V2 fr- > Schweizer- 
hof, 6-8 fr.; Ochs, 6 l /2-Qii.; Bar, 7-8 fr. ; Restaurant zur Sense) 
lie on the left bank. The Bad-Strasse leads from the station to the 
Casino with its pleasant grounds (*Restaurant ; music several times 
daily) and to the Grand Hotel (see above). Good view from the 
lower Limmat bridge (1175'). The Restaurant Schartenfels (1538'), 
on the "W. spur of the Lagernberg (ca. 20 min.), affords a fine view 
of Baden , the valley of the Limmat , and the Alps from the Sentis 
to the Scheerhorn. 

Excursions. The Lagernberg or Lagern, a projecting spur of the Jura 
chain, forms a vidge about 6 M. long from E. to W. From the Scharten- 
fels Restaurant (see above) a rough and rocky path (steady head necessary) 
ascends to (l'/4 hr.) the Gugelhom (2627'; view spoiled by the trees), whence 
an easier path leads to (V2 hr.) the "Burghorn (283CV), the highest point 
of the Lagern, affording a grand view of the High Alps from the Sentis to 
the Wildstrubel, of the Jura and Black Forest, and of the lower hills. [The 
usual and easiest way to (2 l /2 hrs.) the Burghorn fellows the road to the 
N.E. of Baden via. the HShthal; near (3>/2 M.) the village of Ehrendingen 
we diverge to the right and ascend through wood (steep at places).] — The 
"Baldegg (1875'; i l /i hr.) is a deservedly popular point. At the cross-roads 
(finger-post) , '/< M. beyond the Cafe 1 Belvedere (see above), we may take 
the narrow road to the left (blue marks), which ascends through wood to 
(50 min.) the Baldegg, a small plateau with a cottage and view-tower, afford- 
ing a fine survey from the Sentis to the Bernese Alps. Or at the above- 
mentioned cross-roads we may take the broader road to the right, which 
leads via Munzlihausen to the (1 hr.) Baldegg. — Hertenstein (1580'), 1 M. 
to the N. of Baden , has a popular restaurant and affords a good view 
(finer still from the Geissberg, 74 hr. farther on). — Another good point is 
the Marlinsberg (1640'), 35 min. to the W. — From the Kreuzliberg (1683'), 
3 /4 hr. to the S., we may proceed to O/4 hr.) the Zeicher Eiehe (1715'; view), 
and descend to (10 min.) the Teufeltkeller, a cave in which snow is often 
found at midsummer. 

We pass under the Stein zu Baden (see above), and cross the Lim- 
mat to (42 M.) Wettingen. The village lies on the left, at the foot 
of the vine- clad Lagernberg (see above); on the right, enclosed 
by the Limmat, are the extensive buildings and gardens of the 
Cistercian Abbey of Wettingen, now a seminary for teachers. The 
church (adm. 50 c.) contains a sarcophagus in which the remains of 
the Emp. Albert (see p. 23) lay for 15 months before their removal 
to Spires, and carved stalls of the 17th century. The cloisters con- 
tain good stained-glass windows of the 16th and 17th centuries. 

From Wettingen to Oeblikon, 13'/2 M., railway in l'/4 hr. — 2'/j M. 
Wilrenlos; b'fcil. Otelfingen (branch-line by Bucks and Niederglutl to Biilach, 
p. 37); G M. Buchs-Ddllikon; &<fa M. Regensdorf-Watt , a little to the E. 
of which is the small Katzenste ("Inn) ; 10'/2 M. Affoltern; 12'/ 2 M. Seebach. 
— 13'/2 M. Oerlikon (p. 56). 



AAEAU. /. Routt 7. 25 

From Wettingen to Aarau, see p. 26. 

The train again crosses the deep bed of the Limmat and follows 
its left bank to Zurich. 45 M. Killwangen. — 48 M. Dietikon(1285'; 
Lowe). It was heTe that Masse*na effected his famous passage of 
the Limmat, 24th Sept., 1799, after which he repulsed the Russians 
and took Zurich. — 50i/ 2 M. Schlieren; 52V2 M - Altstetten (p. 93). 
To the right stretches the long ridge of the Uetli with its inn (p. 46). 
We now cross the Sihl and enter the station of — 

55 M. Zurich, see p. 38. 

7. From Olten to Waldshut via Aarau and Turgi. 

321/2 M. Railway in 2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 60 c, 4 fr., 3 fr. 85 c). 

Olten, see p. 16. The train runs near the Aare as far as Brugg. 
To the left rise the picturesque Jura Mts. 

4^2 M. Daeniken ; 5^2 M. Schonenwerd (Storch) ; on the opposite 
bank of the Aare is Schloss Oosgen , with a ruined tower. A tunnel 
now carries us under the loftily situated town of A.arau. 

8i/ 2 M. Aarau (1265'; pop. 8000; *E6t. Qerler, at the station, 
R. 2-3, B. 1, D. 3, pens. 6-9 fr.; *Rossli; Ochs ; Lowe; Krone; 
*Sauvage, pens. 6-7 fr.; U.S. Consul, Mr. H. H. Morgan), a 
manufacturing place and the capital of Canton Aargau, lies on the 
Aare, and at the foot of the Jura, on which a few vineyards appear. 
The Cantonal Industrial Museum, in the promenades of the Bahn- 
hof-Str., contains important industrial, ethnographical, and anti- 
quarian collections, fine old stained glass from the Abbey of Muri, 
and a picture gallery (mainly of Swiss masters). Adjacent is the 
well-equipped Cantonal School. The Government Offices contain a 
collection of 5655 coins ; behind it, in the Gross-Raths-Saal, is the 
Cantonal Library, with 80,000 vols, and 500 MSS., comprising 
beautiful missals from the abbeys of Muri and Wettingen, Zwingli's 
Bible with marginal notes by his own hand, etc. In the grounds 
near the Gross-Raths-Saal is a monument to Angustin Keller (d. 1883), 
a well-known Swiss educationalist. The Natural History Museum 
contains a complete representation of the Aargovian flora and 
fauna, as well as geological and mineralogical collections. — A 
bronze statue , designed by Lanz , was erected in 1894 to the 
author Heinrich Zschokke (d. 1848), who once lived here ; his house, 
the 'Blumenhalde' , is passed on the way from the suspension-bridge 
to the O/4 hr.) *Alpenzeiger on the Hungerberg (1490'; Curhaus 
Alpenzeiger, fine view, pens. 4 J / 2 fr.). 

Above the town, to the N., rises the Wasserftuh (2850'), and to the 
N.E. the Giselafluh (2540'), over which a path, with a view of the lakes of 
Hallwil and Baldegg, leads to the Baths of Schinznach. — Pleasant road 
from Aarau by Erlisbach (p. 15) to the (4'/2 M.) "Laurenzenbad (16!K)'; pens. 
5-7 fr. ; good trout), prettily situated in the Jura. — About 6 M. to the 
W. of Aarau are the sulphur-baths of Lostorf (p. 16), the road to which 
passes Erlisbach and Stiiislingen. — From Aarau to Sissach over the Schaf- 
matt, see p. 15. 

From Aarau to Kothkredz, 29V2 M., railway in 172-2 hrs. — 4 M. 



26 1. Route 7. BAD SCHINZNACH. 

Rupperswil (see below); 6 M. Lenzburg (p. 158); 8 M. Hendschilcen ; 10 M. 
Dintiken. — 12 l h M. Wohlen (junction for Bragg and Bale, p. 23). Branch- 
line hence to the E. to (5 M.) Bremgarten (Drei Konige; Adler), a small 
town on the Reuss, with a chateau. To Fahrmangen, see p. 158. — Then 
(16 M.) Boswil-Biinzen and the (18 M.) charmingly situated Muri C1590'; 
'Lowe, with salt and mineral baths, pens. 5-6 fr.; Adler, pens. 4-6 fr.), 
with a former Benedictine Abbey (burned down in 1889). Near the town 
is the picturesque wooded iliihllobel, with several waterfalls. On the Linden- 
berg , U/i hr. to the S.E., is "Schloss Horben (2625'; pens. 5-10 fr.), with 
extensive wood- walks and a beautiful view. — 20'/2 M. Benzenschwil ; 
22'/2 M. Miihlau, on the Reuss; 25 M. Sins; 27 M. Oberriiti. We then cross 
the Reus3 to (2972 M.) Rothkreuz (p. 93). 

Feom Aakau to Wettinoen, 18 31., railway in l'/j hr. — 3 M. Suhr 
(branch-line to Zofingen, p. 21); 57s M. Bunzenschwil (on the right rises 
the Staufberg, see below). 7'/2 M. Lenzburg (p. 15S; 'Seethalbahn' to 
Lucerne, see R. 41), where the Act is crossed. IOV2 M. Othmarsingen, 
junction for Brugg and Wohlen (p. 23). Near (11 M.) Mdgenwil, on a 
spur of the Keslenberg, to the left, rises Schloss Braunegg. The train 
crosses the Reuss. 13'/2 M. Mellingen (Krone), a quaint little town, the 
church of which contains fine old stained, glass (14th cent.); 1572 M. Ddtwil; 
17V2 M. Baden (the station lies to the S.W. of the upper town, 3 /4 JI. from 
the Bale station, see p. 23). — 18 II. Wettingen (p. 24). 

On the left, beyond the Aare, at the foot of the Giselafluh, lies 
Biberstein, with an old castle. 13 M. Ruppersivil ; to the right, the 
Staufberg and the chateau of Lenzburg (p. 158). — 15 M. Wildegg 
(Aarhof), at the foot of the Kestenberg, has mineral springs con- 
taining iodine and bromine, the water of which is exported. Above 
the village to the N. rises Schloss Wildegg (1480'), the residence of 
Ool. Rivett-Carnac, with interesting ethnological and archaeological 
collections (kindly shown by the proprietor to scientific visitors). 
Farther down, beyond the Aare, rises Schloss Wildenstein. To Lenz- 
burg, see p. 158. 

1772 M. Stat. Schinznach lies 72 M - to the 8. of Bad Schinznach 
(1203'), on the right bank of the Aare, with sulphur-baths (R. in 
the *Neubad 2-5, B. li/ 2 , D. 4, 8. 3, board 8, bath 2, music i/ 2 fr. 
per day ; in the 'dependance' JBot.-Pens. Habsburg, frequented by 
Swiss visitors, R. from 1 !/ 2 , board 5, bath 1 fr.). Engl. Ch. Service 
in summer. 

The baths lie at the foot of the Wulpelsberg (1682'), on the top of 
which (1/2 hr.) are the ruins of the Hapsburg or Habsburg , the cradle 
of the imperial family of Austria, erected by Count Radbod von Alten- 
burg about 1020. The tower, with walls 8' thick, is the only part now 
standing; the room said to have been occupied by Rudolph of Hapsburg 
is still shown. The adjoining house is occupied by a farmer. The view 
embraces the entire dominions of the ancient Counts of Hapsburg, the 
valleys of the Aare, Reuss, and Lfmmat, and the High Alps from the 
Gliiruisch to the TJrirothstock and from the Wetterhorner to the Wildhorn. 
— Another fine point of view is the Vier Linden, on the Botzberg (1690*; 
3 /» hr). From the rail, station of Brugg iScliinznaou may be reached by 
carriage (ordered previously) in >/2 hr. 

20 M. Brugg , and thence to (22 M.) Turgi , see pp. 22, 23. 
The train crosses the Limmat near its influx into the Aare. 23^2 M. 
Siygenthal; 28 M. Klingnau. It then describes a wide curve, passes 
through a tunnel, and crosses the Rhine near (3072 M.) Coblenz, 
above the mouth of the Aare. — 3272 M. Waldshut, see p. 27. 



27 



8. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance. 



89 M. Baden Railway in 3-5 hrs. (to Schaffhausen 9 fr. 50, 6 fr .30, 
4 fr. 5 o. ; to Constance 14 fr. 50, 9 fr. 65, 6 fr. 20 c). Neuhausen (aee below) 
is the station for the Falls of the Rhine (R. 9). Views to the right. — 
Steameb from Schaffhausen to Constance in 4 hrs. (descending in 3 1 /* hrs.), 
pleasant if time and weather permit (see p. 29; fares 4 fr., 1 fr. 95 c). 

Bale (Baden station), see p. 3. We traverse the plain between 
the spurs of the Black Forest and the Rhine. 3 M. Orenzach; 5 M. 
Wihlen (Hotel Bilmaier); 77 2 M. Herthen. At (97 2 M.) Rheinfelden 
in Baden (*Bellevue; *Rail. Restaurant), opposite Rheinfelden 
(p. 22), the line approaches the Rhine, which here dashes over 
rocks. The left bank is steep and wooded. — 12 M. Beuggen; to 
the right, a large reformatory and a seminary, formerly a Teutonic 
lodge. 15 M. Niederschworstadt. To the left of (17 M.) Brennet 
opens the Wehra-Thal (see Baedeker's Rhine). 

20 M. Sackingen (957'; Bad-Hotel zumLowen; Schutzen), a con- 
siderable town, has a large abbey-church with two towers. The castle 
on the Rhine, which figures in Scheffel's poem 'Der Trompeter von 
Sackingen', is now the property of Hr. Bally. Pretty grounds. 

24 M. Murg (Zum Murgthal), where we cross the Murg. Opposite 
(25Y2 M.) Klein-Laufenburg (Post) is the Swiss town of Laufen- 
burg (980'; *H6t. Soolbad, pens. 5-6 fr.; Adlef), very pictur- 
esquely placed on the left bank, with lofty church, ruined castle, 
and old watch-towers (rail, stat., see p. 22). The Rhine here forms 
formidable rapids called the l Laufen. 

A long tunnel; then, beyond (29 M.) Albert-Hauenstein, a lofty 
viaduct. At intervals we approach the river. Near (30 M.) Albbruek 
(*Zum Albthal) the Alb is crossed. 32 M. Dogern. 

35 M. Waldshut (1122'; Railway Hotel; *H6tel Blume; Reb- 
stock, in the town) lies high above the river. — Railway to Turgi 
(for Zurich), see p. 26; to Winterthur, see p. 56. 

Beyond Waldshut a tunnel ; to the right, glimpses of the Alps. Be- 
fore (38 M.~)Thiengen (Krone) we cross the Schlucht, and at (401/2 M.) 
Oberlauchringen the Wutach. To the right, on a wooded height, is 
the ruin of Kiissenberg. 44*^ M. Oriessen; 47^2 M. Erzingen- 
Trasadingen; 49 '/2 M. Wilchingen-Unterneuhaus ; 51^2 M. Neun- 
kireh (Ilirsch); 55 M. Beringen ; 57i/ 2 M. Neuhausen , the station 
for the Falls of the Rhine (p. 30). 

59 M. Schaffhausen. — '-Hot. Muller, opposite the station, R. 21/2-4, 
B. 11/4. D. 3, pens. 71/2-IO fr. ; *H6tel National, R. 2-3, B. 1, D. 21/2 
S. 2, pens. 7 fr.; 'Riese, R. 2-21/u, B. iy 4 , dej. 2, D. 21/2, pens. 7 fr. ;, 
Hot. Ruff, similar charges: Hot. Bahnhof, well spoken of; *Sohwan, 
2 min. from the station, R. 2-3, B. 1, D. 3, pens. 6-10 fr. ; Post, 3 min. 
from the station; Tanne, plain, R. 1V4-2, pens. 4 J /2 fr. ; Schiff, on the 
Rhine, unpretending. — "Bail. Restaurant. — Baths in the Rhine, at the 
upper end of the town, well fitted up, 6-1 and 5-8, for ladies 2-5. — 
Electric Teamwat to Neuhausen (Falls of the Rhine) in 20 min. (20 c), 
see p. 31. 

Schaffhausen (1295'; pop. 15,280), a free imperial town down to 
1501 and now capital of the Swiss canton of Schaffhausen, retains 



28 I.Route8. — Map,p.32. SCHAFFHAUSEN. From Bdle 

some of the features of a Swabian town of the empire. It is most 
picturesque when seen from the village of Feuerthalen, on the left 
bank of the Rhine, or from Villa Charlottenfels (1385'), on the right 
bank. Hr. Moser (d. 1874), the late owner of the villa, originated 
the great Waterworks in the Rhine (outside the Miihlenthor), for 
the supply of the factories of the town. 

The Cathedral, once an abbey-church, an early-Romanesque 
basilica, was erected in 1052-1101 and is now a Protestant parish 
church. Interior lately restored. The Gothic cloisters are tolerably 
preserved. The old bell, cast in 1486, the inscription of which 
(Vivos voco, mortuos plango , fulgura frango) suggested Schiller's 
beautiful 'Lied von der Glocke', was replaced in 1898 by a new one 
with the same inscription. — The late-Gothic Church of St. John 
has an excellent organ. — In the Miinstergasse is the Haus zum 
Bitter , a picturesque gabled building, decorated with paintings on 
the facade by Tobias Stimmer. — To the W., in the direction of 
theHerrenacker, stands (1.) the Gewerbehalle, a handsome Renaissance 
structure of 1617. 

The castle of Munot (properly Unnot ; 1564-82; recently re- 
stored), above the town, consists of a round tower, 155' in diameter, 
with walls 16' thick and bomb-proof vaulting. A winding inclined 
plane ascends to the platform , which affords a fine view and is 
much frequented in the evening (concerts, etc.). 

The Imthurneum, in the Herrenacker, erected and presented to 
the town by Hr. Imthurn (d. 1881), a native of Schaffhausen and 
a London banker, contains a theatre, a picture-gallery, a music- 
school, and concert-rooms. Opposite is the Museum, with antiqui- 
ties (including those found in the Kesslerloch near Thaingen, etc.), 
natural history specimens, and the town-library. — The Rathhaus 
has a large porch and a fine panelled room of 1625 , with a carved 
door and a mechanical clock. In the neighbouring government- 
buildings is preserved a fine ancient onyx, representing a goddess 
of peace (adm. 11-12 gratis ; at other times 1 fr.). 

In the pretty Fasenstaub Promenade is a bust of the Swiss his- 
torian Johannes von Miiller (b. at Schaffhausen, 1752; d. at Cassel, 
1809). The lofty terrace affords a fine view of the Rhine and the Alps. 

From Schaffhausen to the Falls of the Rhine (2 M.), see p. 30. 
Tramway and carriages, see p. 31. — Pretty walk through the Miihlen-Thal 
to the Seckelamtshusli , with a view of the Alps, and back to Schaff- 
hausen by the Hochfluh (another fine point of view) and the suburb of Steig 
(l'/s hr- in all). Other fine views may be obtained from the Beringer Randen 
(belvedere), li/ 4 hr. to IheW., and from the Hohe Randen (2955 1 ), S\hhTS. 
to the N.W., reached via Hemmenthal or Meriehattten. — From Schaff- 
hausen to Zurich, see pp. 36,37; to Etzwilen, see p. 36. 

6iy 2 M. Herblingen; 64 M. Thaingen; 67 M. Gottmadingen. 
— 71 M. Singen (Krone; Adler; Ekkehard, all very fair; Rail. 
Restaurant), junction for the Black Forest Railway. About 3 M. 
to the N.W. rises the *Hohentwiel (2265'), with grand ruins and a 
noble view (see Baedeker's Southern Germany). 



to Constance. STEIN. Map,p.32. — I.Route8. 29 

From Singen to Etzwilen, 8 M., railway in >/» nr - (1 fr- 30i 90, 65 c). 
2'/2 M. Arlen-Bielasingen ; 5 M. iJamserc. We cross the Rhine beyond (P/2M.) 
Hemishofen (see below). — 8 M. Etzwilen (p. 36). 

751/2 M. Bickelshausen. — 77 1/2 M. Radolfzell (*Schiff ; JTrone; 
Sonnej, an old town on the Vntersee, with a Gothic church of 1436. 
Near it, on the lake, is the Villa Seehalde, with a monument to the 
poet Victor von Scheffel (d. 1886). — 78 M. Markelfingen; 82 M. 
Allensbach; 84 M. Hegne. — 86 M. Beichenau, station for the 
island in the Untersee, to the right, connected with the shore by 
an embankment. 

The island of Reichenau (3 M. long , 1 M. wide) , now belonging to 
Baden, was formerly the seat of a celebrated Benedictine abbey, founded 
in 724 and secularized in 1799. The Schaffhausen and Constance steamers 
touch at the island twice daily (see p. 30). The road from the shore leads 
past the ruined tower of the castle of Schbpfeln, which was destroyed as 
early as 1384, to (3>/2 M.) Mittelzell (boat from stat. Allensbach to Mittel- 
zell in Vi hr.). The former collegiate church of St. George, near the houses 
of Oberzell , is a Romanesque basilica of the 9th and 10th cent. , with 
interesting frescoes of the 10th century. — In the centre of the island lies its 
chief village, Mittelzell (Mohren; Bar), with 1000 inhabitants. The parish 
church, or Minister, is the former abbey-church, which was consecrated in 
806, and contains tbe remains of Charles the Fat, great-grandson of Charle- 
magne, who was dethroned in 837. The present edifice is a basilica of 
the 11th and 12th cent., borne by columns, with two transepts and a late- 
Gothic choir of 1448-51 ; the treasury, in the sacristy, contains several fine 
reliquaries. — The church of Unterzell, on the N.W. side of the island, 
is another basilica of the 9-12th centuries. 

The train passes the large barracks of Petershausen and crosses 
the Rhine to (89 M.) Constance (p. 33), by an iron bridge embel- 
lished with statues. 

Steamboat feom Schaffhausen to Constance. Charts of the journey 
are sold for 30 c. on board the steamboats. The stations are indicated 
below with daggers. Pier above the bridge, near Schloss Munot (p. 28), op- 
posite Feuerthalen. — Right : Paradies, formerly a nunnery. 

t Left : Biisingen, with an old church. 

R. Katharinenthal, formerly a nunnery, now a hospital for incurables \ 
opposite (left) Villa Rheinburg. 

t R. Diessenhofen (1325'; Adler; Lowe; Hirseh), the Roman Quno- 
durum. The Rhine is crossed here by a covered wooden bridge, below 
which the steamer lowers its funnel. 

R. Rheinklingen ; left, Bibern. We now pass under the handsome 
bridge of the 'Nordostbahn' (see above). L. Hemishofen, with the pavilion 
of Wolkenstein above (see below). R. Wagenhausen. 

t L. Stein am Rhein ('Sonne, R. 2-3, B. 1, D. 2>/2, pens. 7y 2 fr.; "E6t. 
Rheinfels; Babe), a picturesque old town, connected with the village of 
Burg (Wasserfels) by a new wooden bridge, and a station on the Winter- 
thur railway (p. 37). The suppressed monastery of St. George has been 
restored and fitted up as a Museum (interesting rooms, cloisters, etc. ; adm. 
1 fr., including description l'/2 fr.). The Mathhaus contains stained glass, old 
weapons, etc. At Burg (see above) the walls of a Roman castrum, with four 
towers, were recently brought to light. — Pleasant walks in the adjacent 
woods. The old chateau of "Hohenklingen (1945'), on a hill to the X. of 
the town (l'/s M. by road), was restored in 1897 and is now a frequented 
summer-hotel (pens. 4 1 /2-5 1 /2 fr.). It affords an admirable view of the Unter- 
see, the picturesque valley of the Rhine, and the Alps from Vorarlbcrg to 
the Jungfrau. — Another good point of view is the Wolkenstein (1920'), a 
rocky hill with a pavilion, l'/4 hr. to the N.W. of Stein. We follow the 



30 J,R.9.— Map,p.:)-J. FALLS OF TFIE RFlINi:. 

road to (1 M.) a finger-post at the W. base of the Hohenklingen hill and then 
ascend through fine woods by a path denoted by white and yellow marks. 

Above Stein is the island of <S(. Othmar, with the chapel of that name. 
The Rhine widens, the steamer enters the TJntersee. — R. Eschenz (p. 38). 
A road ascends hence to 0/j hr.) the chateau of Freudenfels (1720'), whence 
it goes on to (20_min.) the hamlet of Klingenzell, with a pilgrimage-church 
and a fine view of the Untersee, the Rhine, and part of the E. Alps (better 
still from a height 10 min. to the S.E.). 

t L. Oberstaad, an old mansion with a sqnare tower, now occupied 
by a factory ; beyond it is the suppressed monastery of Oehningen. 

t R. Mammern (p. 36) ; in the wood, the ruin of Neuburg ; on thi 
bank, the house of Qlarisegg. 

t L. Wangen ("Hotel & Restaurant zum Frieden). A road leads to 
(i'/4 SI.) the chateau of Marbach (now a sanatorium; fine view and garden), 
on a hill about 160' above the Untersee. 

t R. Steckborn (p. 36). Below it, the former nunnery of Feldbach. 

+ R. Berlingen (p. 36). The lake expands, and we now see the island 
of Reichenau (p429). On the hill to the right is the chateau of Eugens- 
berg, erected by Eugene Beauharnais, viceroy of Italy, and now the property 
of Countess Reichenbach-Lessonitz. 

t R. Mannenbach (p. 86), charmingly situated, above which is the 
handsome pinnacled chateau of Salenstein. An easy road ascends to Qfa hr.) 
Arenaberg (1502'), situated on a wooded hill, once the residence of Qneen 
Hortense (d. 1837) and her son Napoleon III. (d. 1873), now the property 
of the ex-Empress Eugenie. It contains pictures, sculptures, and other 
reminiscences of the Napoleonic dynasty (adm. 1 fr., 2 pers. l'/j, 3 pers. 
2 fr., each addit. pers. 50 c). The park affords a beautiful view. 

t L. Reichenau, on the island of Reichenau (p. 29). 

+ R. Ermatingen (p. 36), prettily situated on a promontory; on 
the hill above it, Schloss Wolfsberg (1690' ; 'Hotel-Pension, pens. 5-7 fr.). 

We now enter the narrow arm of the Rhine connecting the Unter- 
see with the Lake of Constance. 

+ R. Oottlieben (Krone), with a chateau, restored by Napoleon IH., in 
which Huss, and afterwards Pope John XXII. were confined. Baron Scherer's 
chateau of Castel, on the hill at the back of the village, was built by Tafel 
of Stuttgart and is sumptuously fitted up (Alhambra room, frescoes by 
Haberlin, etc.). Beautiful retrospect of the Untersee, with the peaks of the 
Hbhgau in the distance. 

The banks now become flat, and at places marshy. We thread our 
way through reedy shallows (1. Petershausen , with large barracks), and 
at length pass under the handsome railway-bridge of Constance (p. 33). 
Passengers are landed at the pier with a lighthouse at its E. end. 

9. The Falls of the Rhine. 

Hotels. On the hill on the right bank, near the Baden stat. Neuhausen 
(p. 27): 'Schweizekhof, 3 min. from the railway-station, R. 4-8, B. I'/s, 
dej. 3'/2, D. 5, pens. 10-18 fr., omn. 75 c, with grounds extending down 
to the river and the finest view of the Falls and the Alps; °Bellevoe, at 
(he rail, station, R. 3-5, B. H/i, dcj. 3, D. 4, pens, from 8 fr. — At Neu- 
hausen: Hotel-Pension Gekmania, R. 2-3, B. 1' 4 , D. 272-3, pens. 5-7 fr.; 
Hot. Oberbebg, 3 min. from the Baden station; Hotel Kiieinfall. R. 
2-2'/s, B. li/ 4 . D. 3. pens. 5-7, omn. »/2 fr. ; Fkohsinn; Zubcherhof; Hut. 
Bahnhofschweiz, 3 min. from the Swiss stat. Neuhausen, R. 2 3'/2, pens. 
6 fr. — On the left bank: Hot. Schloss Ladken, 3/4 M. from Dachsen station 
(p. 37), R. 2-4, B. 1V«, dej. 2, D. 3'/s, pens. 6, omn. 1 fr. ; Hot. Witzig, 
at stat. Dachsen (p. 37). — Illumination of the Falls with electric and Bengal 
lights every evening in summer, for which '^-l fr. is charged in the hotel- 
bill. — English Church in the 'Schweizerhof grounds. 

The stations for the Falls on the right bank are Neuhausen (p. 27) on the 
Baden Railway and the station of (he same name on the Swiss Railway (p. 86)} 
that on the left bank is Dachsen (p. 37), on the Winterthur and Zurich line. 



Xord t> n 




FALLS OF THE RHINE. Ma P ,p.32. — I. R.9. 31 

The best way to see the Falls is to start from Neuhausen and follow the 
route described below (cross the bridge to Schloss Lavfen, descend to the 
Fischetz, cross to the Schlossehen WSrth, and return along the right bank, 
l'/s hr. in all). This round is often taken in the reverse direction, but 
as the Fischetz, the most striking point of all, is then visited first, the 
other points lose much of their impressiveness. — From Dachsen we walk 
or drive to ( 3 /4 M.) Schloss Lav/en (omn. in 8min.), make the round above 
indicated, and return across the Rheinfall-Briicke. — From Schaffhausen 
(p. 27) electric tramway to Neuhausen in £0 min. (20 c); carriage with one 
horse for i pers. 1 fr. 40, there and back 2 fr. 40, 2 persons 2 and 3 fr., etc. ; 
to Schloss Laufen 1-2 pers. 4 fr., each addit. pers. 2 fr. Waiting is charged 
1 fr. per hour. — All the points of view should be visited by those who 
desire an adequate impression of the Falls. 

The **Falls of the Rhine are in point of volume the grandest in 
Central Europe. The Rhine takes three leaps over an irregular 
rocky ledge, -which next to the left hank is about 60' high, and on 
the right bank about 48'. Above the Falls the river is 125 yds. broad. 
If the rapids and the cataracts a few hundred paces farther up are 
included, the total height of the Falls is nearly 100'. (Level of the 
Rhine below the falls 1180'.) In June and July the river is swollen 
with melting snow. Before 8 a.m. and after 3 p.m. rainbows are 
formed by the sun in the clouds of silvery spray. The spectacle is 
also very impressive by moonlight. 

||, Of the four limestone -rocks which rise above the Falls, that nearest 
the left bank has been worn by the action of the water to one-third of 
its original thickness, but has lately been buttressed with masonry. When 
viewed from a boat below, the rocks seem to tremble. The central and 
highest rock, surmounted by a small pavilion, may be reached by boat, 
and ascended by a path protected by a railing. The Falls are seen here 
to the best advantage. The passage, which only takes a few minutes, is 
free from danger (1-2 pers. 3 fr. and fee ; each additional person 1 fr.). — 
It is curious that no mention of these Falls occurs in history before 960. 
It has therefore been supposed that they did not exist until about a 
thousand years ago, and that, while the bed of the river below the falls 
has been hollowed by erosion, the deepening process above the falls has 
been retarded by the hardness of the rocky barrier above mentioned. 

Neuhausen Station of the Baden Railway (1443'), see p. 27. We 
take the road to the left, and after a few paces descend by a path to 
the right to the (5 min.) village. From the Swiss Station Neuhausen 
(1312'; p. 36) we follow the footpath to the left (the carriage-road 
ascends straight on), which leads past the Hotel Bahnhofschweiz to 
(10 min.) the village. The two paths unite at the Griitli Restaurant. 
We now descend across the Eglisau and Zurich railway (p. 36) and 
follow thajoad for about 100 yds. The path to the left here leads to 
the Rheigfell-Briicke ; in the middle and to the right are the direct 
routes to the Falls as described p. 32. Those who wish to make the 
round indicated above take the shady path to the left, passing the 
Oun and Waggon Factory, to the (8 min.) *Rheinf all - Briicke 
(210 yds.), which carries the 'Nordostbahn' over the Rhine a little 
above the Falls (p. 37). The nine arches vary in span (42-66'), as 
it was difficult to find foundations for the piers. The footway over 
the|bridge affords an interesting view of the rocky bed of the river, 
the rapids, and the falls below. 



32 /. Route 10. LAKE OF CONSTANCE. 

On the left bank a path ascends to the left in 5 min. to the 
Schloss Laufen (13600, picturesquely situated on a wooded rock 
immediately above the Falls (adm. 1 fr.; no other fees). The balcony 
and a jutting pavilion with stained- glass windows command a good 
survey of the falls and the environs. Camera obscura, 50 c. 

Paths descend through the grounds to the chief points of view : 
an iron Pavilion , the wooden Kanzeli , and the *Fischetz , an iron 
platform projecting over the foaming abyss. The scene is stupen- 
dous. The huge emerald-green volume of water thunders down at our 
very feet and bedews us with its spray. (Waterproofs; 20 c.) 

Boats are ready to ferry us across (50 c, return-fare 80 c.) to 
Scb.15sscb.en Worth (Inn, R. 13/ 4 fr.; camera obscura 50 c), on an 
island opposite the Falls, which is connected with the right bank by 
a bridge. This point commands the finest general *Vibw of the Falls. 
(Boat to the central rock, see p. 31). We may now follow the path 
on the right bank, ascending the river (benches ; splendid views) 
and passing an Aluminium Factory (left), to the road (p. 31). Or 
we may follow the river beyond the factory and ascend by the 
flight of steps to the left (protected by a hand-rail), which affords 
fine views of the tossing waters and leads to (10 min.) the village. 

A pleasant walk may also be taken from the Schloischen Worth down 
the right bank of the Rhine. The grounds of the Fitcherholzli, to the W. 
of the Schweizerhof garden, afford picturesque glimpses. Numerous 
fossils are found among the rocki of the Falls and among the loose depo- 
sits at the Schldsschen Worth. — Pleasant excursions may be made from 
Neuhausen to the (1 31.) Hohfluh and the (2 31.) Seckelamts/tiisli (p. 2Sj ; to 
the (1 M.) Hardfluh in the Neuhausen forest; and to (3 31.) the convent of 
Rheinau (either by land or water; cimp. p. 37). 

10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of 
Constance. 

Steamboat eight times daily in summer (thrice direct, in l'/t hr.; five 
times via Meersburg in l'/2-l 3 A hr.). Between the chief places on the lake, 
Friedrichshafen , Lindau , Bregenz , Rorschach , Romanshorn , Constance, 
Meersburg , Ueberlingen , and Ludwigshafen , the steamers (about 26 in 
number) ply at least once daily, and on the chief routes (Friedrichshafen- 
Constance l'/s hr. , Friedrichshafen- Romanshorn i hr. , Friedrichshafen- 
Rorschach l'/« hr., Lindau-Romanshorn l'A hr., Rorschach-Lindau 1 hr., 
Constance -Lindau 3 hrs.) 2-6 times daily. Good restaurants on board 
(D. 2'/j-3 fr.). The lake being neutral, luggage is liable to custom-house 
examination on arriving in Germany or Austria from Switzerland, and 
nominally in the reverse case also. Passengers from one German port to 
another may avoid these formalities by obtaining before embarkation a 
custom-house ticket for their luggage (gratis). 

The Lake of Constance (1305'; Ger. Bodensee, Lat. Lacus Brigantinus), 
an immense reservoir of the Rhine, 207 sq. 31. in area, is, from Bregenz 
to the influx of the Stockach, 40 M. long, about 7 l /2 M. wide, and between 
Friedrichshafen and Uttweil 825' deep. In beauty of scenery the Bodensee 
cannot vie with the other Swiss lakes; but its broad expanse of water, its 
picturesque banks and green hills, the chain of the Appenzell Alps in the 
distance, the snow-clad Sentis in particular, and several snow-peaks of the 
Vorarlberg Alps, visible in clear weather, present a very pleasing scene. 
In rough weather sea-sickness is not uncommon. The best fish are 'Felchtn' 
and trout, and the best wine grown on the banks is the 'Meersbvrger'. 



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CONSTANCE. /. Route 10. 33 

Friedrichshafen ( Deutsches Haua ; Drei Kbnige ,• Sonne; Muller's 
Restaurant), the S. terminus of the Wiirtemberg Railway (to Stutt- 
gart 474-6 hrs.), is a busy place in summer. Its lake-baths attract 
many visitors, especially from Swabia, and it boasts of a Curhalle, 
with pleasant grounds on the lake. The Harbour with its Lighthouse 
is 1 M. from the railway-station. 

Travellers going on by steamer keep their seats until the train reaches 
the terminus near the quay (restaurant, with terrace). Those arriving by 
steamer may take tickets on landing, and enter the train at once. 

The Constance steamer steers to the W. On the N. bank are 
the village of Immenstaad, the chateaux of Herrsberg and Kirchberg, 
and then the village of Hagnau. On the N.W. arm of the lake, the 
Ueberlinger See, we see the picturesque little town of Meemburg ; 
then the island of Mainau (p. 35), and in the distance Veberlingen. 
The steamer passes the promontory which separates the Ueberlinger 
See from the bay of Constance, and reaches (l*/2 nr -) — 

Constance (see Plan, p. 31). — Hotels. *insel-h6tel (pi. a; C, 3), 

formerly a Dominican monastery (p. 34), on the lake, with a garden and fine 
view, R. 3-5, B. 0/ 4 , D. 4, S. 3'/2, pens. 8-12 M; 'Hotel Halm (PI. c; C, 5), 
opposite the railway-station, R. 21/2-3, B. 1. D. 3 J(; "Hecht (PI. d; C, 4) 
E. 2-3, B. 1, D. 3*0; "Hotel Schonebeck (PI. e; C, 5), opposite the railway- 
station, R. 2'/ 2 -4, B. 1. D 3. pens. 6V2-7'/2 *$; "Badisohkh Hof (PI. f ; B, 5); 
'Krone (PI. g; C, 4), R. 2, B. 1, D. 3 Jt; Bakbabossa, Falke, Schnetzer (in 
the market-place), Schlusskl, Riedmatter, Bodan. second-class, moderate. 

— Restaurants. "Schonebeck (see above), Victoria, both opposite the station; 
Schnetzer (-ee above); Hohenzoller , near the Siadtgarten; Step bans- Keller 
(in the old German style); Cafi Maximilian, Bahnhof-Str. ; Cafi Hieber (also 
confectioner), Paradies-Str. 5. — Post Office (PI. 7 ; C, 4), near the station. 

— Baths in the lake (PI. D, 4, 5), well fitted up (bath 40 pf. ; ferry 10 pf.). 

— English Church Service in summer. — The former Onstanzer Hof 
(PI. D, 1), on the lake, is now a Sanatorium for Nervous Patients. 

Constance (1335'; pop. 21,363), a free town of the Empire 
down to 1548, after the Reformation subject to Austria, and since 
the Peace of Pressburg in 1806 a town of Baden, lies at the N.W. 
end of the Lake of Constance, at the efflux of the Rhine. The epis- 
copal see , founded in 781 , and held by 87 bishops in succession, 
was made an archbishopric and removed to Freiburg in 1827. 

The *Cathbdral (PI. 4; B, 3), founded in 1052, originally a cru- 
ciform Romanesqtie edifice, was rebuilt in its present form in 
1435 and 1680. The Gothic tower (250' high), designed by Hiibsch, 
was erected in 1850-57; the open spire, with a platform on each 
side, commands an excellent survey of the town and lake (moun- 
tain-indicator at the top; adm. 20 pf.). 

Interior. On the doors of the chief portal are 'Reliefs in 20 sections, 
from the life of Christ, carved in oak by Simon Haider and Nicholas Lerch 
in 1470. 'Choir-stalls, with satirical sculptures, of the same date. The 
organ-loft was enriched in the Renaissance style in 1680. In the nave, which 
is borne by 16 monolith columns (28' high, 3' thick), sixteen paces from the 
entrance, is a large stone slab, with a white spot which always remains dry 
when the rest is damp. On this spot Huss is said to have stood on 6th July, 
1415, when the Council sentenced him to be burned at the stake. The N. 
chapel adjoining the choir contains a 'Death of the Virgin, in stone, date 
1460. In the left aisle is the monument of /. H. von Wessenberg (p. 34). 

Baedekeu, Switzerland. 19th Edition. 3 



34 /. Route 10. CONSTANCE. 

The Tkeasuby (verger i/rljt) contains missals of 1426, with miniatures. 
On the E. side of the church is a Ckift, containing the Chapel of the Si- 
pulchre, a representation of the Holy Sepulchre in stone, 2CK high (13th 
cent.). Adjoining the church on the N. stand two sides of the once hand- 
some Cloisteks, erected about 1480 in the Gothic style. 

The Wessbnberg Haus (PI. 15; B,3), once the residence of Hr. 
von Wessenberg (d. 1860), who for many years was the chancellor 
of the bishopric, contains a collection of pictures, engravings, and 
books, bequeathed by him to the town, and a number of paintings 
and sketches left by Marie Ellenrieder (d. 1863), a lady-artist. 

The late-Gothic church of St. Stephen (PI. 6; B,4), of the 14th 
cent, with its slender tower, but disfigured externally, contains 
interesting reliefs by H. Morink (in the choir). — The Wessenberg- 
Stiasse leads hence to the Ober-Markt, at the corner of which is the 
modern 'Zwm Hohen Haferi (PI. 2 ; B, 4), where, according to the 
inscription, Frederick, Burgrave of Nuremberg, was invested with 
the March of Brandenburg by Emp. Sigismund on 18th April, 1417. 
Adjacent is an old house (now the Hotel Barbarossd), styled by the 
inscription Curia Pads, in which Emp. Frederick I. concluded peace 
with the Lombard towns in 1183. 

The Stadt-Kanzlei or town-hall (PI. 12 ; B, 4, 5), erected in 
1593 in the Renaissance style, and embellished in 1864 on the 
facade with frescoes by F. Wagner, relating to the history of Constance, 
contains the Municipal Archives in the lower rooms (2800 charters, 
chiefly from the Reformation period). Handsome inner court. In 
the lobby of the second floor are five frescoes by Haberlin (1898), 
also relating to the town's history. 

The Rosgakten (PI. 8 ; B , 5) , the old guildhouse of the 
butchers, contains the *Rosgarten Museum of lacustrine remains, 
antiquities of Constance, and natural history specimens (open free 
on Wed., 2-5, and Sun., 10.30-12; at other times 50 pf.). — In 
the market-place stands a Victory, by Baur (PI. 10), erected in memory 
of the war of 1870-71. At the other end is a fountain ereoted in 
1897, with statues of Emps. Frederick Barbarossa, Henry III., Maxi- 
milian I., and William I. 

The Kaufhaus (PI. 1 ; C, 4), on the lake, erected in 1 388, contains 
the large hall, 52 yds. long, 35 yds. wide, and borne by ten mas- 
sive oaken pillars, where the conclave of cardinals met at the time 
of the Great Council(1414-18) and elected Pope Martin V. Colonna. 
The hall has been restored and was adorned in 1875-85 with fres- 
coes by PeclU and Scliworer from the history of the town (adm. 
20 pf.). Upstairs is a collection of Indian and Chinese curiosities, 
the property of the castellan (40 pf.). — The Dominican Monastbet 
(PI. a; C, 3), in which Huss was confined, on an island, has been 
partly converted into a hotel ('Insel-Hotel', p. 33). The well- 
preserved Romanesque cloisters (with frescoes by Haberlin, illustrat- 
ing the history of the monastery) are worthy of a visit; the former 
church is now the dining-room of the hotel. 




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KREUZLINGEN. I. Route 11. 35 

Pleasant promenade in the Stadt-Garten on the lake, with a 
marhle bust of Emp. William I., a music pavilion (band every even- 
ing in summer), and a charming view (mountain-indicator). 

The house in which Huss was arrested, in the Husen-Strasse 
near the Schnetzthor (PI. A, 5), is indicated by a tablet with a por- 
trait of the Reformer in relief, put up in 1878. Adjoining it is an 
old relief, of 1415, with derisive verses. Behind it, in the 'Obere 
Laube', a bronze tablet with an inscription designates the spot where 
Jerome of Prague was imprisoned in 1415-16. In the Bruhl, i/ 2 M. 
to the W. of the town, a large boulder with inscriptions ('Husen- 
stein') marks the spot where the Reformers suffered martyrdom. 

Fine view of the lake and the Vorarlberg and Appenzell Alps from 
the * Allmannsdorfer Aussichts-Thurm (1 hr. to the N.), 5 min. above the 
village of Allmannsdorf (Adler), on the road to the Mainau. — Pleasant 
walks to the Loretto - Kapelle (1/2 hr.); the Jacob (Hotel-Pension Wald- 
haus, pens. 5-6 J!!; >/2hr.); the Tabor (view-tower; f hr.); and the Kleine 
Rigi, above Munsterlingen (inn; 1 hr.). 

In the N. W. arm of the Lake of Constance (Ueberlinger See, p. 33), 
4'/2 M. from Constance, lies the pretty island of "Hainau, formerly the seat 
of a commandery of the Teutonic Order, as is indicated by a cross on the 
S. side of the chateau, which was built in 1746. The island, Ufa M. in 
circumference, is connected with the mainland by an iron bridge 150 paces 
long. Since 1853 it has been the property of the Grand Duke of Baden, and 
is laid out in pleasure-grounds, where cypresses and other semi-tropical 
plants flourish in the open air. Near the chateau is a small restaurant. 
Steamboat from Constance in 35 min. ; small boat (a pleasant trip of 1 hr.) 
5 M and fee; one-horse carr. 5-6, two-horse ?>J(. Walkers take a shorter 
route, partly through pleasant woods (ltyi hr.). 

11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur 

(Zurich) . 

60 M. Railway (Nordostbahn) in 4V4-5 3 /* hrs. (fares 9 fr. 75, 6 fr. 85, 
4 fr. 80 c). 

Rorschach, see p. 60. The line skirts the Lake of Constance, 
of which it affords pretty glimpses. Stations: Horn (p. 61) , Arbon 
(*Bar, pens. 6-8 fr. ; Engel; Kreuz ; Pens. Seebad), a small town 
on the site of the Roman Arbor Felix. — 7!/ 2 M. Egnach. 

91/2 M. Romanshorn, see p. 57. — 12 M. TJttwil (*Bad- und 
Cur-Anstalt, pens, from 5 fr., suitable for a stay); 13 M. Kessinl 
(Bar; Pens. Seethal), well-to-do villages. To the right, on the 
lake, the Moosburg is visible. — 95 M. Oiittingen (Lamm), with a 
chateau; 16 M. Altnau (Krone); 18y 2 M. Munsterlingen (Pens. 
Schelling, from 4 fr.), with a lunatic asylum. — 21 M. Kreuz - 
lingen (Lowe; Schweizerhof '; Bellevue, a sanatorium for nervous 
patients), a pleasant little town (4734inhab.) with the old Augustine 
abbey of that name, now an agricultural school and seminary for 
teachers. The church contains a 'Mount of Olives', with about 
2000 small figures, carved in wood in the 18th cent, by a Tyrolese 
sculptor. 

22 M. Constance (a terminus station), see p. 33. — 23 M. Ernmis- 

8» 



36 I.R.U - .!/<,,•, p.. ■>;>. STECKBORN. 

hofen-Egelshofen; 25 M. Tagerwilen; on the Rhine, to the right, 
Gottliebenfo'dQ). — Near (27 M.) Ermatingen (*Bot. -Pens. Adler, 
with garden, pens. 5-0 fr.), the station for the chateau of Wolfs- 
berg (p. 30), we approach the green Vntersee. On the height to 
the left is the chateau oiUard (now a sanatorium for dipsomaniacs). 
— Near (28»/-2 M.) Mannenbach (*IIut. -Pens. Schiff, 4-5 fr.) is 
the chateau of Arenaberg (p. 30). To the right, in the lake, the 
island of Reichenau (p. 29) ; on the left, Schloss Eugensberg (p. 30). 
At (30 1 , '2 M.) Berlingen (Krone, pens. 4-5 fr.) the L'ntersee attains 
its greatest width (5M.), after which it divides into two branches. 

32 M. Steckborn (Krone; Sonne), a small town (5244 inhab.) 
with a castellated 'Kaufhaus', lately restored. Below it, on the 
right, the iron foundry of Feldbach, once a nunnery, and, farther 
on, the mansion of Olarisegg. On the opposite (N.) bank are 
Wangen and the chateau of Marbach (p. 30). 

36 M. Mammem (Ochs, at the station), with a chateau, used as 
a hydropathic establishment, and a large park on the lake. At(37M.) 
Eschenz the Untersee again narrows into the Rhine (p. 30). We 
follow the left bank to the station for (39 M.) Stein am Khein 
(Hotel Bahnhof) , opposite the small town (p. 29), commanded by 
the castle of Hohenklingen ; and then turn to the left to (41 M.) 
Etzwilen (Hotel and Restaurant zur EisenbahiO, the junction for 
Singen (p. 28). 

From Etzwilen to Schaffhausen, lO'/a M., railway in 34 minutes. — 
21/2 M. SchWtingen; i'h M. Diessenhofen (p. 29); 7'/-/M. Schlatt; 8Vs M. 
Langwiesen. Beyond (10 M.) Feuerthalen the railway crosses the Rhine 
by an imposing iron bridge (fine view, to the left, nf Schafl'hausen) — 
l6'/2 M. Schaffhausen (p. 27). 

On the left, as we proceed to theS., is the vine-clad and wooded 
Stammheimer J5erp(1716). 43*/2M. Stammheim; 48 1 oM. Ossingen. 
We now cross the Thur by a bold iron bridge, 148' high, borne by 
seven iron buttresses. 53 M. Thulheim-Altikon; 54 , /iM- Wthikoji- 
Dinhard; 56 M. Seuzach; 58 '/2 M. Ober- Winterthur, a small town 
with an old Romanesque church (tower modern), the Roman Vito- 
durum. 

60 M. Winterthur, and tlnnoe to (77 M.) Zurich, see pp. 57, 50. 

12. From Schaffhausen to Zurich. 

a. Via Eglisau. 

20 SI. KoBi'usniAiiN in 1-1 3 A hr. ; fares 5 fr., 3 fr. 50, 2 fr. 50 c. (To 
K-lisau, 13 31., in 2SJ5 min. ; 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 00, 1 fr. 5 c). 

Schaffhausen . see p. 27. The line skirts the lofty Fiisenstaub 
Promenade (p . 28 ), and passes below the Villa Charlottenfels (p. 28). 
2 ,M. \euhau<en (Swiss Station Neuhausen ; Restaurant zum Bahn- 
hof), the station for the Falls of the Rhine (p. 30). Our line then 
di\ urges to the right from that to Winterthur (p. 37), threads a 
tunnel below the village of Neuhaiiscn, and traverses the grounds 



DACHSEN. Maps, pp. 32,48. — I.R. 12. 37 

of the Schweizerhof (p. 30), affording a fine *View of the Falls. 
Beyond the Fiseherholzli tunnel (p. 32) the train quits the river 
and traverses a hilly and partially wooded region. — 4 M. Alien- 
burg-Rheinau. 

A carriage-road leads hence via Alteriburg to (l'/s M.) Kheinau ("Loice, 
unpretending ; Balm), a Swiss village with 1300 inhab. and an important 
wine-trade, on a peninsula formed by the Rhine. On an island in the 
river is the former Benedictine Abbey of Kheinau, founded in 778 by the 
Alemannian Duke Wolfhart, secularized in 1862, and now a hospital. 
The church is in the baroque style (1710); the library contains some 
ancient MSS. 

5 M. Jestetten (Lowe) and (7i/ 2 M.) Lottstetten (Engel , with 
garden and pretty view) are both in the Duchy of Baden. Crossing 
the Swiss frontier, we descend to (972 M.) Rafz (Kreuz) and (11 M.) 
Hiintwangen, pass the little town of Eglisau (1109'; Hirsch; Krone) 
on the right bank, and cross the Rhine by a great viaduct (500 yds. 
long; central span 98 yds.; height 194') to (13 M.) stat. Eglisau 
(Rail. Restaurant; to Waldshut, p. 57). 1472 M. Olattfelden; then 
through the Hardwald to (16 M.) Biilach (1778'; pop. 2177 ; Kopf; 
Kreuz), a little town, once fortified (to Winterthur, p. 56). — 19 M. 
Niederglatt (junction for Wettingen, p. 24). — 20'/2 M. Oberglatt. 

Branch-line to (7 M., in 1 /t hr.) Mederweningen, via (3 M.) Dielsdorf 
(1410'; Sonne; Post), l ] /2 M. below the prettily situated old town of Regens- 
berg (2025' ; * Krone, pens. 4-5 p.), on the E. spur of the Lagcrnberg (p. 24). 
Fine view from the tower of the old castle (now an institution for boys 
of weak intellect); still more extensive from the Hochwachl (2830'), 1 hr. 
farther on. 

The line skirts the Glatt. 221/2 M. Riimlang; 24 M. Qlattbrugg ; 
26V2 M. Oerlikon. Thence to (29 M.) Zurich, see p. 66. 

b. Via Winterthur. 

36 M. Nokdostbahn in 13/4-273 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 95, 4 fr. 20 c, 3 fr.) 
Views on the right. 

From Schaffhausen to (2 M.) Swiss Neuhausen, see p. 36. The 
line diverges to the left from that via Eglisau (see above), passes 
through a long cutting, and crosses the Rheinfall-Brucke (see p. 31), 
affording a glimpse of the falls to the right. It then enters a tunnel, 
71yds. long, un&ei Schloss Lau fen (j> .32). On emerging, and looking 
hack to the right, we obtain another beautiful glance at the falls. 

3 M. Dachsen (1295'; "Hotel Witzig, R. 27 2 , B. 17 4 fr.) lies 
3 /4 M. to the S. of Schloss Laufen (comp. p. 30). As the train 
proceeds, it affords pleasing views at intervals of the bluish-green 
Rhine in its deep and narrow channel, enclosed by wooded banks. 

572 M. Marthalen. Before Teaching (IO72 M.) Andelfingen 
(1298'; Lowe) we cross the Thur by an iron bridge 113' high. — 
i3 M. Henggart, 72^. to the N.W. of which is the chateau of Golden- 
berg (pension). 14 M. Hettlingen. The vine-clad slopes of Neften- 
bach, to the right, produce the best wines in N. Switzerland. Near 
Winterthur opens the broad valley of the Toss. 

19 M. Winterthur, and thence to (36 M.) Zurich, see pp. 57, 56. 



38 



13. Zurich and its Environs. 



Railway Stations. Central Station (PI. H, I, 3, 4; "Restaurant), at the 
N. end of the town, 3 /t M. from the lake (hotel-omn. '/4-I fr., each box 20 c. ; 
cab for 1-2 pers. 80 c). The hotel - servants are not allowed upon the 
platform, and luggage is carried into the waiting-rooms only. — Enge 
StatioH (PI D, 2), on the left bank of the lake (p. ~0j. — Stadelho/en 
(PI. E, 5) and Le ten (for Unterstrass and Wipkingen) are stations for the 
railway on the right bank to Meilen and Eapperswil (p. 48). — UeUiberg 
Station (PI. F, 1), also for the Sihllhal Line (p. 47). — Steamboats (see 
pp. 40, 48) start from the Stadthaus-Platz (PI. E, 4). 

Hotels. 'Hotel Back au Lac (PI. a; E, 3), with a pretty garden and 
delightful view, E. 4-10, B. I1/2, dej. 4-5, D. 5-6, pens, from 10, omn. 
1 fr. ; 'Hot. Bellevce (PI. b; E, 4), on the lake, with fine view, R. 4-9, 
B. l»/2, dej. 31/2, D. 5, pens. 10-16 fr. ; Grand Hot. National (PI. d; H, 3), 
R. 4-8, D. 4fr. ; *H6t. Victoria (PI. c; H, 3), R.4-8, B. l'/a, D. 4-5, pens. 
10-15 fr., both opposite the station; -St. Gotthard (PI. k; H, 3), R. 2V2-3'/2, 
B. li/4, D. 3 fr., near the station; *H6t. de l'Epbe (PI. e; G, 4), by the 
Rathhaus bridge, R. 2V2-3>/2, D- 3'/2, pens. V/z-&h fr. ; Hotel Baur en 
Ville (PI. f; F, 3), R. 3 3 A-6, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr.; "Hotel Habis 
(PI. g; H, 3), near the station, R. 272-4, B. I1/2, D. 31/2, pens. 8-12 fr.; 
Hot. Lintii-Escher. Linth-Escher-Platz (PI. II, 3), E. from 2, B. I1/4, D. 3fr.; 
Hotel de Zurich (PI. In E, O), R. 3'/2-5, D. 3'/2, pens. 8-11 fr.; "Wanner's 
Hotel Garni (PI. 1 ; H, 3), Bahnhof-Str., R. 2-5 fr. ; Hotel Bahnhof (PI. m; 
H, 3), R. 2V2-37-.., B. 174, D. 2>/*, pens. 7 fr.; Union, Merkor, R. IVs-3, 
B. 1, 31. l'/i fr., both in the Schiitzengasse; Stadthof (PI. n; H, 3, 4), 
R. 27.;-5, B. l>/4, D. 3 fr., Hot. Brunig, Hot. Garni de la Poste, Hotel 
Garni Rosier, all near the station; Hot. Central (PI. 0; H, 4), on the 
right bank of the Limmat. near the station, 1!. 272-4, D. 3 1 /-.!, pens. 7-10 fr. ; 
Hot. de'lEurope, Stampfenhach-Str. 8, R. 2'/«3, B. 1 , D. 2>/2fr.; 
'Bernerhof, R. 2-4. B. l'/4 D. 3 fr.; Hotel Ckstralpost, in the Central- 
hof (PI. F, 3. 4), R. from I'/'j fr. ; Schweizerhof (PI. p; G, 4), R. 21/2-3, 
B. l>/4, D. 3-3V2, pens. V/i-^/i fr. ; "Limuathof (PI. q; H, 4), R. 2-2i/«, 
B. 1, D. incl. wine 2 3 A fr. ; Hotel i>u Jura. R. 172-2, B. 1, D. l>/s-2, pens, 
from 5 fr. ; Hotel zur IIexne, P.athhaus-t^iuii. R. from 2 fr. ; Goluner 
Stern, Theater-Str. 22, on the l:>ke, R. 2-4, B. 1, D. 2 fr ; Hotel de 
/.'Opera, Dufouv-Str., near the theatre, 1!. from IV2 fr. ; "Pfacen (PI. t; 
F, 6), Riimi-Sir., R. 2, B. 1/2-I, I>. l'/4-2 fr. ; Hot. Guichard (Melzgerbrau), 
Beatengasse 13, R. 2-3, B. l'/4 fr., well sp ken of; Cigogne, Rennweg; 
Schwarzer Adler, Niederdorf - Str. 9, both moderate; Rothes Hads 
(PI. r; F, 4) and Seehof (PI. s; F, 4, 5), on the Sonnen-Quai, moderate; 
Hot. -Pens. Santis, Seefeld-Str. ; 'Augustinerhof (Evangelischei Vereitu- 
haus), Peter-Str. 8, R. l>/2-3 fr. , B. 1, D. I72, pens. 4-5 fr.; Weisses. 
Kueoz, Krone, Hirsch. Lamm, Lowe, Stern, unpretending; Hot. Phoenix, 
in Fluntern; : 'Iot. Mtthen, R. from 2 fr., Hot. Freihof, both near the 
Enge station (p. oO). Visitors are received at all these hotels en pension, 
the charees being reduced in spring and autumn. — "Dolder Grand Hotel, 
see p. 46; hotels on the UeUiberg, see p. 47. 

Pensions. Neptcn, Seefeld-Str. 15, pens. 6'/i-l l /-i fr. ; Tiefenad, at 
Hottingen. Sleinwies-Str. 10, pens. 5-6 fr. ; Beau-Site, Dufour-Str. 40, near 
the Alpen-Quai, pens, from 5 fr.; Sohanzenbkrg (Frau Hepp), Schonberg- 
Str. 1-5 (51/2-8 fr.); Hohenlinden. Clausius-Str. 36 (U-IO72 fr.); Fobtuna, 
Jliihlebach-Str. 59, near the theatre (5-7 fr.); Pens. Internationale, 
Zurichberg, Gloria-Str. 70 (5-6 fr.); Mp.rz. Tannen-Str. 15, Oberstrass; 
Plattenhof, Zurich-Sir. 16 (5-7 fr.) ; ILw.ele, Plattcn-Str. 19 (4>/j-7fr.)i 
Villa Belmont, Rami-Str. 67 ( r >7»9 fr); Schmklzberq, behind the obser- 
vatory (i> j-(j fr.) ; Sternwaete, Hoch-Str. 3< (4-6 fr.); FoRSTER, at Fluntern, 
on the hill, 1 1/ 8 M. to the E. of Zurich (electric tramway); Sonnenbero, 
Zurichberg (G-7 fr.). 

Restaurants. *Kroiu-nlnilli; Raini-Slr., D. at 12.30 p.m. 2fr.; "Tonhatt^ 
(see p. 40); Cvrso T/ieu'rr (.p. 40 1; Ca/i-Restaurant du Novd, opposite the 
rail, station; Restaurant zur BOrse (firill Room), at the Hotel Baur an Lac, 




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Tramways. ZIJRICH. /. Route 13. 39 

Thalgasse; Merkm; Wanner, see p. 38; Orsini (Munich beer), Zunfthaut 
zur Waag, both in the Frau-Miinster-Platz; Dufour, Schiitzengasse 17, 
near the rail, station; Cafi Central, Centralhof (Munich beer); "Saffran, 
opposite the Eathhaus; Zimmerleuten, D. incl. wine 2 fr., well spoken of; 
Limmatburg , Limmat-Quai; Karl der Grosse, near the Gross-Munster. — 
Beer. Kropf, in Gassen (PI. F, 3, 4), Munich beer; Mazzini, Parade-Platz; 
Blaue Fahne, Miinstergasse; Strohhof, Augustinergasse, D. with wine 2 fr., 
also Pilsen beer; St. Gotthard, (see p. 38; Pilsen beer); Stadtkeller, 
Zahringer-Str. 42; Franziskaner, corner of Stiissi-Hofstatt and Niederdorf- 
Str. ; Drahtschmidli, with garden on the Limmat, opposite the Platzspitz 
(p. 44). — Wine. Val Tellina wine at the Veltliner Keller, Schliissel- 
gasse 8, near St. Peter's; Walliser Weinhalle, near the Schweizerhof; 
Wanner (see p. 3S) ; Oorgot, Miinstergasse 15 (Spanish wines); Bodega, 
Bahnhof-Str. 24 and Miinsterhof 17 (Spanish and other wines). 

Cafes. SteindVs Wiener Cafi, Bahnhof-Str. (Hot. National); MttropoU, 
Stadthaus-Quai. — Confectioners. Lmdt & Sprilngli, Parade- Platz (good 
ices); Rusterholz, Untere Kirchgasse, on the Sonnen-Quai; Schuster, Bahn- 
hof-Platz; Bourry, Sonnen-Quai. 

Baths in the lake at the Stadthaus-Platz (PI. E, 4), at the suburb of 
Enge (PI. C, 3), at the Uto-Quai (PI. C, 5), and, for ladies, at the Mythen- 
Quai (PI. B, 2), the Uto-Quai, and in the Limmat below the Bauschanze 
(PI. E, F, 4). Neumiinster Baths (PI. F, 5). at the S. end of the town. — 
Warm Baths (vapour, etc.): "Central-Bad, Waldmann-Str. 9 (PI. E, F, 5); 
"MiihUbach Baths (also penfion), Eisengasse (P). D, b); Miihlegasse Baths, 
opposite the Prediger Kirche (PI. G, 5) ; Adlerburg, Stadelhofer-Platz (PI. E, 6) ; 
at the Werdmiihle in the Bahnhof-Str. 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. F, 4), Kapplergasse, between the Fran- 
Miinster-Str. and the Stadthaus-Quai (p. 42). 

Cabs. Drive within the town, or not exceeding >/« hr., 1-2 pers. 80 c, 
3-4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c. ; for % hr., 1 fr. 50, 1 fr. 90 c. : for 3/i hr., 2 fr., 2 fr. 60 c. ; 
lhr., 2fr. 50, 3 fr. 30 c. ; each addit. 1/4 hr. 50, 70 c. Each trunk 25 c, 
small articles free. From 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. double fares. 

The Electric Tramway System (Stddtische Strassenbahn) is divided into 
the following lines. White Cars: Tiefenbrunnen (station), Feldegg-Strasse, 
Bellevue-Platz, Helmhaus, Central Station, Parade-Platz, Tunnel-Strasse, 
Brunau-Strasie, Wollishofen (Hirsch), Morgenihal (every 6 min.) ; — Tunnel- 
Stra^se to Uto-Briicke (every 6 min.). — Green Cars: Heuriedt, Freya- 
Strasse, Sihlbriicke, Central Station, Pfanen, Kreuzplat/., Eomerhof, Pfauen, 
Bellevue-Platz, Stadthaus-Platz, Enge Station (every 6 min.). — Red Cars: 
Burgwies, Kreuzplatz, Bellevue-Platz, Stadthaus-Platz, Parade-Platz, Sihl- 
briicke, Marien-Strasse , Hardau (every 6 min.). — Yellow Line: Parade- 
Platz to Helmhaus (every 6 min.). Fare for one section 10 c, two sections 
lb c, three or more sections 20 c. — • Cable Tramway (Zdrichberg-Drahl- 
seilbahn) from the Limmat-Quai to the Polytechnic (PI. H, 4, 5), every 
5-6 min. from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. (in summer from 6 a.m. to 9.30 or 10 p.m. ; 
fare, in either direction, 10 c; journey 2'/2min.). — The Centrale Ziirich- 
bergbahn (yellow cars) runs every 6 min. from the Parade-Platz to the 
Stadthaus-Platz, Waldmann-Strasse, Cantonal School, Platte, Spitzkehre, 
and the church of Fluntern ; at Platte , embranchment via Palmhof and 
Huttensteig to the Seilbahn-Eigiviertel Station at the end of the TJniver- 
8itats-Str. (PI. H-K, 5, 6), where it is joined by the new Ziirichberg 
Funicular Railway (opened in 1901) , which ascends in 3'/2 min. (20 c.) to 
the top of the Ziirichberg (2200 1 ) near the margin of the forest (from the 
Parade-Platz in 22 min., 40 c). — Dolder Cable Tramway from Romerhof 
Station (see above) in 5 min. to the Waldhaus Dolder Eestaurant (p. 40) 
and electric tramway thence in 3 min. to the Dolder Grand Hotel (fares 
to the Waldhaus, up 40, down 30, return 60 c. ; Waldhaus to Grand Hotel 20, 
return 30; Eomerhof to Grand Hotel 60, down 50, return 90 c). — In- 
dustrie-Guartier Strassenbahn (electric) from the MainEail. Station through 
the Limmat-Str. and the Industrial Quarter to the Hard-Str. (Wipkinger- 
Briicke) and Hongg (Talchern) 10-15 c. — Zurich and Seebach Electric 



40 I. Route 13. ZURICH. Theatres. 

Tramway (3'/2 M.) from the Hut. Central (Leonhard-Platz) via Unterstrass 
and the Milchbuok to Oerlikon (p. 56) and Seebach, 10-30 c. 

Small Steamers ('Dampfschwalben') ply on the lake-front of the city 
every */4 hr. in the inner 'rayon 1 , and hourly in the outer 'rayon* (fares 
10-50 c. ; circular trips Vz-1 fr.). Stations on the right, bank: Sladthaut- 
Plntz (PI. E, 4); Theatre (PI. D, 5); Mainau-Stratte ; ZUrichhorn; Tiefen- 
brunntn; Zollikon; and Kit$?iachl. Stations on the left hank: Stadthaus- 
Plntz (Bahnhof-Str.); Alpeti-Quni ; Mylhen-Quai (Enge and Belvoir Park); 
Wollithofen; MUnchhof ; Bendlikon; Riischlikon; Ludretikon; and Tha'weil 
(p. fo- 
llowing Boats for 1-2 pers. 50c. per hour; for 3 or more pers. 20 c. 
each per hour. Sailing Boats 1 fr. per hour; boatman 1 fr. per hour. 

Theatres. Stadt-Theater, Uto-Quai (PI. D,4); performances from Sept. 
15th to May 1st. — Central-Theater, Weinberg-Strasse (PI. J, 4), comedies 
and popular pieces, open all the year round. — Corso- Theater, Theater- 
Strasse (PI. E, 5), for variety performances, handsomely fitted up, with 
restaurant and concert rooms. — Panopticum, TJnterer Miihlenste 1 -', near 
the Cntral Station (PI. II, 4), from 9 a.m till 10 p.m., 1 fr. ; adm.' to the 
automaton room free. — Panorama (Battle of Liitzen), on the TJto-Quai 
(PI. C, 5; open daily, from 7 a.m. till dusk; adm. 1 fr.). 

Popular Resorts. 'Tonhalle (PI. E, 3; p. 41), Alpen-Quai, with restau- 
rant, concerts daily at 8 p.m., in the cupola hall or (in fine weather) in the 
garden (70 c). 'Belvoir Park, at the S. extremity of the Alpen-Quai (PI. D, 3; 
p. 41), with restaurant; adm. 20 c, concerts 50 c, free on Sun. and Wed. 
(tramway Central Station-Seestrasse). "Waldhaus Dolder, on the Ziirichherg, 
above Hottingen, with restaurant, fine view, and shady promenades (cable 
tramway from Romerhof, see p. 3)). ZUrichhorn Park (PI. A, 6), with re- 
staurant and Nageli's Museum of Stuffed Alpine Animals (20 c), station of 
the small steamers (see above). Platlen-Garlen (PI. G, 6), adjoining the 
Polytechnic. The Waid on the Kdferberg . 3 M. to the N.W. of the town 
(pleasant route via Drahtschmidli , see p. 39); Jakobsburg (Munich beer), 
above Oberstrags. The 'UHliberg is the finest point in the environs (by 
railway in '/. 2 hr. ; see p. 46). 

Money Changers. Schweizer Credit- Anslalt, Bahnhof-Str. 2; Kuglcr <fc Co., 
Post-Str. 2. — Information as to excursions, objects of interest, etc., at the 
Enquiry Office, Exchange Buildings (PI. E, 3; week-days 9-12 and 2-5). 

Permanent Exhibition of the Zurich Art Society in the 'Kiinstlerhaus', 
Thalgasse 5, next door to the Hot. Baur au Lac (Swiss and foreign works 
of art) , daily , 10-7, 1 fr. ; afternoon 50 c. — Anglo-American Pharmacy, 
Dr. C. Diinnenberg, Tonhalle-Platz. 

English Church Service in the Church of St. Andrew, Hohe Promenaden- 
Gasse (tramway-station Pfauen, PI. E, 6), on Sun. at 8 a.m., 10.30 a.m., 
and 8 p.m.; chaplain, Rev. J. II. Buchanan, M. A., 4'J Englisches Viertel. 

British Consul, Henry Angst, 11 Bleicherweg; office-hours W/rll'/i. 
United States Consul, Adam Lieberknechl , Stadthaus- Quai 3 (9-12 and 
2-4 p.m.). 

Zurich (1345'), the capital of the canton, lies at the N. end of 
the lake, on the green, rapid Limmat, which divides it into the 
'GrosseStadt' on the right, and the 'Kleine Stadt' on the left bank. 
On the W. side flows the Sihl, unimportant except in spring, which 
falls into the Limmat below the town. Since the incorporation of the 
eleven 'Ausgemeinden' and other suburbs (1893), Zurich, with its 
150,000 inhab., is the leading town of Switzerland. It is one of the 
busiest manufacturing towns in the country. Silk is the staple pro- 
duct, and the cotton-mills, machine-works, and iron-foundries are 
also important. 

Lacustrine remains prove that the site of Zurich was occupied in 
prehistoric times. In B.C. 58 Zurich (Turicum), with the other towns of 



Situation. ZURICH. /. Route 13. 41 

the Helvetii, fell under the sway of the Romans. It owed its prosperity 
in the middle ages to the favour of the Carlovingians. In 1292 it joined TJri 
and Schwyz, and in 1351 it became a member of the Swiss Confederation. 
From an early date Zurich was the intellectual leader of Switzerland. 
As the home of Zwingli (1519-31) it was the focus of the Reformation, and 
its schools have for centuries sent forth men of distinction — Bodmer, 
Hottinger, Orelli, Gessner, Lavater, Hess, Pestalozzi, Heidegger, Horner, 
Hirzel, Henry Meyer, the friend of Goethe, and many others. 

The Situation of Zurich is very beautiful. Both banks of the clear, 
pale-green lake are enlivened with villages, orchards, and vineyards, scat- 
tered over a highly cultivated country. In the background rise the snow- 
capped Alps ; to the left is the crest of the Glarnisch, then the perpendicular 
sides of the Griesetstock (92W), near it on the right the Pfannmstock, and farther 
on, the Drusberg, the ice-clad Bifertenstock, and the Todi (the highest of the 
group, the last two rising above the Linththal); in front of these the Cla- 
riden, with their westernmost point the Kammlistock (10,624') ; between this 
and the double-peaked Scheerhorn lies the Gries Glacier; then on the N. 
side of the Schachen-T/ial the long Rossslock Chain with its fantastic peaks ; 
the broad Windgelle ; between this and the Scheerhorn appears the dark 
summit of the lower Myten near Schwyz \ above the depression between 
the wooded Kaiserstock and the Rossberg towers the pyramidal Bristenstock, 
near Amsteg on the St. Gotthard route ; then, if we occupy a commanding 
position, the Blackenstock and Uri-Rothstock , and part of the snow-moun- 
tains of the Engelberger-Thal, appearing above the Albis, to the right, the 
northernmost point of which is the Uetliberg, with the hotel on its summit. 

In the Bahnhop - Platz (PI. H, 3) a fountain with a bronze 
Statue of Alfred Escher (d. 1882), the statesman and founder of the 
St. Gotthard Railway, by Kissling, was erected in 1889. The Bahn- 
hof-Stsasse (PI. H-E, 3), nearly 3 / 4 M. long, leads to the S. to the 
lake. It passes, on the right, the Linth-Escher-Platz (PI. H, 3), with a 
Statue of Pestalozzi by Siegwart (1899) and the Linih- Escher School, 
and, farther on, the Credit- Anstalt (PI. F, 3); on the left the Cen- 
tralhof and the Kappeler Hof; and on the right the Zurich Cantonal 
Bank, the Federal Bank ( Eidgenossische Bank), and the Exchange 
(PI. E, 3). — Side-streets lead to the left to the shady Lindenhof 
(PI. G, 3, 4), 123' above the Limmat, which was fortified at an early 
period and afterwards became an imperial palace ; to the late-Gothic 
Augustine Church (PI. G, 3), now used by the Old Catholics, with 
paintings by Deschwanden ; and to St. Peter's Church (PI. F, 4), with its 
massive tower and large electric clock (dials 29' in diameter), where 
Lavater (d. 1801) was pastor for 23 years (grave on the N. side). 

The Stadthaus-Platz (hand in summer on Sun. 10.15-1 1.45 a.m., 
week-days 8 p.m.) is adjoined by a Terrace on the lake (PI. E, 4), 
commanding a beautiful view; to the right is the steamboat-quay, 
to the left are lake-baths (p. 39). — The broad *See-Quai (Alpen- 
Quai and Mythen-Quai), with its pleasant promenades (Arboretum) 
and fine views of the lake and the Alps, skirts the lake to the right, 
extending to the Belvoir Park, to the S. of the quarter of Z'drich- 
Enge (p. 40). Near the beginning of the quay is the *Tonhalle 
(PI. D, E, 3), an effective building erected in 1893-95 by Fellner $ 
Helmer of Vienna, with cafe-restaurant, open-air terraces, and large 
concert-rooms (see p. 40). 

To the E. of the Stadthaus-Platz the handsome Quai-Brucke 



42 I. Route 13. ZURICH. Quays. 

(PI. E, 4; 180 yds. long), constructed in 1882-83, crosses the 
Limmat near its issue from the lake. Below the bridge, on the left 
bank of the Limmat, is the Bauschanze, a small pentagonal island, 
shaded -with trees, and oonnected by a bridge with the Stadthaus- 
Quai, where stands the large and handsome Post Office, with its high 
clock-tower. Opposite is the new Town Hall (PI. F, 4), a building 
in the medieval style by Gull, adjoining the Frau-Miinsterkirche 
(see below). — On the right bank of the lake also promenades 
(Uto-Quai and Seefeld-Quai), with charming views, lead past the 
handsome Town Theatre (PI. D, 5), built by Fellner & Helmer, and 
the Panorama (PI. 0, 5) to the park of Ziirichhorn (p. 40). 

The next bridge below the Quai-Briicke is the four- arched 
Miinster-Brucke (PI. F, 4). Adjacent are the Frau-Miinsterkirche 
of the 12-13th cent., with its high red-roofed tower, on the left 
bank, and the former Wasserkirche (1479-84), on the right bank. 
The latter now contains the Town Library (PI. F, 4), with its 
130,000 vols, and over 4500 MSS. (week-days 9-12 and 4-6, fee 60 c. ; 
to the Zwingli and Gottfried Keller rooms alone, week-days 11-12, 
20 c. ; entrance in the open vestibule adjoining the bridge). 

The Zwingli Koom contains a letter of Zwingli (p. 41) to his wife; 
Zwingli's Greek Bible with Hebrew annotations in his own handwriting; 
an autograph letter of Henry IV. of France and a cast of his features ; three 
autograph Latin letters of Lady Jane Grey to Antistes Bullinger ; a letter of 
Frederick the Great, dated 1784, to Prof. Muller. — The Gottfried Keller 
Room is devoted to reminiscences of that poet (d. 1890). — The other 
treasures of the library comprize numerous incunabula, a Greek Psalter 
of the 7th cent., portraits of burgomasters and scholars of Zurich, and 
some old stained glass. 

The steps opposite the E. end of the Miinster-Brucke lead to the 
Romanesque Grossmunster (PI. F, 4), erected in the ll-13th cent- 
uries. The upper stories of the towers are Gothic, and in 1799 they 
were crowned with helmet-shaped tops with gilded flowers. On the 
W. tower is enthroned Charlemagne with gilded crown and sword, 
in recognition of his donations to the church. The choir contains 
three large modern stained-glass windows representing Christ, St. 
Peter, and St. Paul. The church and the Cloisters, of the beginning 
of the 13th cent., are open daily in summer from 11 to 12 (adm. 
20 c, tower 30 c. ; free organ-recital on Mon. , 6-7 p.m. ; sacristan, 
Kirchgasse 13). 

On the quay to the S. of the choir of the Wasserkirche is a 
bronze statue, by Natter, of Zwingli, pastor of the Grossmunster 
from 1519 till his death in 1531. — At the Rathhaus - Brilckt 
(PI. G, 4) we see on one side the Rathhaus (PI. F, G, 4), a mas- 
sive building of 1699 (in the vestibule a marble bust of Gottfried 
Keller, by Kissling), on the other the Fleischhalle, or meat-market. 
Opposite are the Museum, (reading-room) and the Schneggen Club. — 
Farther on, at the Wollenhof, by the upper Miihlesteg (PI. G, H, 4), 
is the Pestalozzianum. containing the Swiss educational exhibition 
and the Pestalozzi cabinet (week-days 10-12 and 2-5; adm. free). 



Kilnstlergut. ZURICH. /. Route 13. 43 

From the Quai-Briicke we ascend the Rami - Strasse (PI. 
E-H, 5, 6) to the E., then to the right to the Hohe Promenade 
(PI. E, 5, 6), a loftily situated avenue of limes. Beautiful view 
(best by morning-light) from the platform with the Monument of 
Nageli (d. 1836), the vocal composer. Adjacent is the Old 
Cemetery, with the English Church (p. 40). — From the Hohe Pro- 
menade a road passing the N. side of the cemetery rejoins the 
Rami-Strasse, where (to the left) is the monument of Ignaz Heim 
(d. 1880), the composer. The street ascends to the Cantonal School 
(PI. G, 6) ; it then bends to the N. To the left are the Physical and 
Physiological Institute of the University and the new Ophthalmic 
Institute (PI. H, 5); to the right the Cantonal Hospital (PL H, 6); 
beyond it the Physical Institute of the Polytechnic, the Observatory, 
the School of Forestry and Agriculture, and the Chemical Laboratory 
(PI. I, 5). 

At No. 15 Schbnberggasse, behind the Physical Institute, Jacob 
Bodmer lived from 1739 till Ms death in 1783. — Lower down, on 
the slope, is the Eunstlergut (PI. G, 5), containing the Picture 
Gallery of the Zurich Artists' Union (open in summer on Sat. 2-4, 
Sun. 10-12, free; at other times on application to the custodian, 
50 c; catalogue 50 c). 

Large Koom. To the right, 26. Delachaux, Choir-boys ; 213. Siemiradzki, 
Venetian gondola; 227. Stiickelberg, CharcOHl-burners in the Jura; 2. Anker, 
Pestalozzi; 20. Buchser, Italian herdsmen; 29. F. Diday, Scene in the Valais; 
60. E. Girardet , The sick child ; 138. Roller, Alp in the Engelberg Valley ; 
270. Ziind, Chapel on the battlefield of Sempach; 238. Ulrich, Storm; 
16. Bosshardt, Arrest of Canon Hammerlin; 21. A. Calame, Lake of 
Lucerne; 1. A. Achenbach, Storm; 12. Bodmer, Stags; 22. Carolus Duran, 
Female figure; 174. Ott, Walensee; 140. Roller, Midday repose; 218. Steffan, 
Mountain- torrent; 23. Castan, Winter-scene; 217. Stauffer, Portrait of a 
lady; *245. Yautier, The gallant professor; *142. Roller, Cattle at a lake; 
66. Qrob , The artist on his travels; 198. Sandreuter, Charmey; 219. Steffan, 
Mountain-lake; 218. Stiickelberg, Pilgrims; 271. Ziind, Oak-wood; 31. Diday, 
On the Handeck ; Bocklm, 14. Arbour, °13. Spring ; 246. Teillon, Evening on 
the Lake of Lucerne; 245. Tobler, Wedding in the Amper-Thal ; 192. Ritz, 
Engineers among the mountains. — The smaller rooms contain portraits, 
water-colours, etc. 

The handsome *Polytechnic (PI. H, 5), to the left, designed by 
O. Semper (d. 1879) and erected in 1861-64, is the seat of the 
University of Zurich (730 students, 113 professors and lecturers) and 
of the federal Polytechnic School (930 students, 107 professors and 
lecturers). The sgraffito decorations of the N. facade were executed 
from Semper's designs. 

Main Entrance on the W. side. In the vestibule and on the staircase 
are busts of Ropp and Bolley, the chemists. On the groundfloor are the 
Archaeological Collection (casts, Greek vases, ^Terracottas from Tanagra, 
etc.; open free, Sun. 10-12, Tues. and Frid. 2-5; at other times 50 c); 
and the fine Collection of Engravings (open free , Wed. and Sat. 2-5). 
On the First Flooe, busts of O. Semper (see above) and C. Cttlmann 
(d. 1861), the engineer, and the Mineralogical, Geological, and Palaeontolo- 
gical Collections (Thurs. 8-12 and 2-6 , free ; at other times 50 c). On the 
Second Flooe, the Zoological Collection (open as above) and the Aula, richly 
decorated, with mythological ceiling-paintings by Bin of Paris and a 



44 I. Route 13. ZURICH. National Museum. 

marble bust of Orelli (d. 1849), the philologist, by Meili. Splendid view 
from the balcony. — The custodian shows the Aula and conducts visitors 
to the Terrace on the top of the building (best survey of the town and 
environs). 

On the S. side is the entrance to the University. On the second floor 
an bust< of Fr. Horner, the oculist, and Al. Sc/iweizer, the theologian. — 
The Industrial anil Hygienic Collection is open free daily, 8-12 and 2-4. 

We may now return to the station by the Cable Tramway (PI. 
H, 5, 4 ; p. 39), which ends opposite the Bahnhof-Briicke ; or we may 
descend from the Kiinstlergut by the Sempersteig to the Liinmat- 
Quai, passing the handsome Girls' 1 School, the Ethnographical Mu- 
seum in the Seilergraben (adm. 50 c. ; free on Sun., 10.30-12, and 
Wed., 2-4), and the Predigerkirche, •with a new tower. 

The Platz Promenade (PI. I, K, 3, 4), an avenue of fine trees to 
the N. of the railway-station, between the Sihl and Limmat, affords 
pleasant walks (band on Sun., 10.15-11.45 a.m.). In this prome- 
nade are the Swiss National Museum (see below), and the simple 
monuments of the idyllic poet Salomon Gamer (d. 1788), the 
minnesinger Joh. Hadlaub , and the composer W. Baumgartner 
(d. 1867). It terminates in the 'Platzspitz', a point of land formed 
by the junction of the Sihl with the Limmat. 

The *Swiss National Museum, an extensive building in the 
mediaeval style by O. O'ull, was opened in 1898 and contains histor- 
ical and art-industrial objects from prehistoric days down to the 
19th century. Though of very recent origin, it is the most impor- 
tant collection of the kind in Switzerland. A series of rooms fitted 
up with mediaeval and Renaissance furniture is especially note- 
worthy, but there are also many large special collections, while var- 
ious old architectural details, either originals or reproductions, 
have been most successfully made use of. The collection of stained 
glass, distributed throughout the various rooms, is the best in the 
world. — The museum is open daily (except Mon.), from June 
15th to Sept. 14th, 10-5 (other months 10-4); adm. 10-12 a.m. 1 fr. 
(children 50 c), afternoon and Sun. free. Director, H. Angst. Guide 
by Dr. H. Lehmann, 1 fr. 

We inter by the portal in the great tower, to the left. In the corridor 
are three old terrestrial globes. Room I. 'Prehistoric Antiquities. Remains 
from caves and lake- dwellings. Graves of the bronze and iron periods. 
In the centre, bust of Br. Ferd. Keller (d. 1881), discoverer of the lake 
dwellings. — Room II. Roman Remains found in Switzerland (vases, orna- 
ments, bronze statuettes utensils, stone monuments). Model of a Roman 
villa at Pfaffikon — 11. III. Roman weapons and implements. AlemanniaD, 
Rurgundian, and Lombard remains. Objects of the Merovingian and Caro- 
lingian periods. — Mediaeval and Modern Section. R. IV. Painted ceiling, 
with scenes from the New Testament (original in the church of Zillis; 
13th cent.). Fragments of altars. Three carved Gothic balconies from the 
Valais (15th cent.). Stove tiles (14-16th cent.). We now return and ascend 
the staircase to the rie,ht — R. V. Reconstruction of a brick arcade from 
St. Urban (Lucerne; 13-14th cent.), tiothic door from the Supersax house 
at Sion (early 16th cent.; p. 3b2). — R. VI. Brick windows and doorways 
from St Urban and Beromiinster. Architectural fragments from Zofingen, 
All-Huron, etc. (13-14th cent). — R. VII. Reconstruction of a room from 
the Haus zum Loch in Zurich (ca. 1306). Heraldic antiquities. The small 



National Museum. ZURICH. /. Route 13. 45 

glass-case contains the Zurich armorial roll (ca. 1318), the shoes of the 
Abbess Hildegarde (d. 859), and leathern caskets. In the large glass-case 
are a bridal coffer, Romanesque candelabra, and the shield of Arnold von 
Brienz from Seedorf (13th cent.). — VII. Gothic Chapel, with architectural 
fragments and tombstones. Carved altars. Funeral hatchments. — IX. 
Cloister Court. Gothic tombs. — X. Treasury (crypt, lighted with electri- 
city). Silver vessels, Guild goblets, etc. Chain of Burgomaster Wald- 
mann (15th cent.). Goblet of Antistes Bullinger, presented by Queen Eliza- 
beth of England in 1560. Mug of Cologne ware that belonged to Zwingll. 
Medals and tokens. — XI, XII, XIII. Old sleighs, litters, chariots, and 
fire-engines. Large carved cask (1745). Instruments of torture. — XIV. 
Council Chamber of the town of Mellingen on the Reuss (1467). "Stained glass 
of the 15th century. — XV. Cloisters. Arcades of (he old Dominican con- 
vent in Zurich (13ih cent.). 'Stained glass of the end of the 15th and begin- 
ning of the 16th century. — XVI, XVII, XVIII. Three Gothic "Rooms from 
the former Abbey of Fraumiinster , at Zurich (1489-1507). In R. XVII is a 
carved altar with the monogram A. H. (1521). Panel with the Legend of 
St. John by Hans Fries. In R. XVIII are two views of Zurich at the be- 
ginning of the 16th century. — XIX. Corridor. Furniture and paintings 
by Hans Leu and others. — XX. Loggia (with view of the park). Repro- 
duction of an early -Renaissance ceiling from the Casa de* Negromanti at 
Locarno. — XXI. Vestibule of the Laboratory, with late-Gothic coffered 
ceiling from Arbon. Late-Gothic and Renaissance furniture. Gothic wood 
carvings. Fine stained glass. — XXII. Laboratory of the o'd Benedictine 
convent of Muri. 

First Flooe. XXIII. Arbon Room, with late Gothic ceiling (medallions) 
from the Chateau of Arbon (1515). Collection of textiles. Tapestry re- 
presenting woman's wiles (1522). Antependium from Lachen (1480). "Table 
with designs by Hans Holbein (1514; formerly in the Town Library). 
Coffers, etc. — R. XXIV. Late-Gothic alcoves from the Lower Valais 
(15th cent.), with Gothic furniture from French Switzerland. — XXV. Room 
from the Dominican nunnery of Oetenbach at Zurich (1521). Early-Re- 
naissance altar from Cazis. — "XXVI. Renaissance room from the Casa 
Pestalozzi in Chiavenna (1585). — XXVII. Room from the Rosenburg in 
Stans, with a stove in coloured tiles (1566). — XXVIII. Bedroom ('Winter 
Room') from the chateau of Wiggen at Rorschach (1582). — "XXIX. State 
room from the Seidenhof at Ziirich, with stove by L. Pl'au of Winterthur 
(1620). — XXX, XXXI. Corridor. Stained glass from the Convent of Rath- 
hausen, Lucerne. Renaissance furniture and architectural details (16-17th 
cent.). "Large piece of Gobelins tapestry, representing the Treaty of Alliance 
between Louis XVI. and the deputies of the Swiss Federa'ion (1663). 
Vessels of bronze, copper, and tin (16-18th cent.). — XXXII. Court. Carved 
ceiling from Neunkirch (1555). Tiled pavement from Stans (1566). 

Second Floor. — XXXIII. Gallery. Furniture of the 16-17th centuries. 

— XXXIV. Room from the Winkelried House at Stans, with cotlered ceiling 
(1600). — XXXV. Attic room. Antiquities from the Grisons (17-18th cent.). 

— XXXVI. Small room from the convent at Mi'msUr (Grisons; 1630). — 
RR. XXXVII, XXXVIII. Furniture. — XXXIX. Room from the Palazzo 
Pellanda at Biasca (1587). — RR. XL, XLI. Old furniture, coffers, and 
musical instruments. — We now descend again to the — 

First Floor. — XLII. Gallery of the chapel. Doors from the old 
Music Boom of Zurich (ISth cent). — "XLIII. Baroque room from the 
Lochmann House at Zurich (end of the 17th cent.), with mythological ceiling 
paintings and portraits of French kings, statesmen, and generals. Jlodel 
of the fortifications of Zurich (17th cent.). — XLIV. Upper Chapel. Ec- 
clesiastical antiquities of the 17-18th centuries. Hammered iron choir 
railing from Killwangen. — XLV. Rococo Room (18th cent.). Collection of 
Zurich porcelain from the old factory of Schoren , near Bendlikon. — 
XLVI, XLVII. Corridor. Glass, porcelain, and fayence of the 16-19th cent- 
uries. Monument to the poet Salomon Gessner, by Alexander Trippel 
(1791). — XLVIII. Ceramic Collection. Cabinet 1: Stove- tiles, majolica 
plaques, and vessels from Winterthur (16-I7th cent.). Cab. 2&3: Majolica 



46 7. Route 13. ZUKICB. Botanic Garden. 

plates, fayence from Beromiinster, Lenzburg, Zurich, and elsewhere. — 
XL1X. Collection of Costumes (1. Peasantry; 2. Towns). — *L. Armoury. 
Fine hall with an extensive and well - arranged collection of weapons, 
chiefly from the Zurich Arsenal, forming a brilliant illustration of the 
martial prowess of the Swiss in the 16th century. Sword, ducal hat, and 
banner presented to the Swiss Federation by Pope Julius II. in 1612. 
Zwingli's arms (p. 94). — LI. Military uniforms. — £,11. Corridor. Stained 
glass, etchings on glass, and designs for stained-glass windows. 

The court opening on the Platz Promenade contains some old pieces 
of ordnance of heavy calibre. — To the right of the main tower is the 
Industrial School, containing the Industrial Museum (chiefly modern objects; 
open 9-12 and 2-6; closed on Tues.), the Library, and an Intelligence Office. 

On the right bank of the Limmat, in the "Weinberg-Strasse, 
rises the new Roman Catholic Liebfrauenkirche (PI. I, 4, 5), a 
handsome basilica in the Romanesque style, with an isolated 
tower (adm. 50 c. ; from the gallery a good survey of the town). 

In Aussersihl (PI. G, H, I, 1,2), a quarter on the left bank of 
the Sihl mainly occupied by artizans (electric tramway, see p. 39), 
are the Military Depot of Canton Zurich, including barracks and an 
arsenal, and the Sihlfeld Cemetery, with a crematorium (adm. 1 fr.). 

The Botanic Garden (PI. F, 2), stocked with Alpine and other 
plants, contains bronze busts of A. P. de Candolle (d. 1841) and 
C. Gessner (d. 1565), and marble busts of H. Zollinger, a Swiss 
botanist (d. in Java, 1859), and Oswald Heer (d. 1883), the naturalist. 
The Katz, an old bastion, forms a lofty platform planted with trees. 

To the E. of the Botanic Garden a bridge crosses the Schanzen- 
graben to the stations of the Uetliberg and Sihlthal Railways (PI. F, 1 ; 
see below). 

On the Zilrichlerg, l 1 /^ M. to the S. E. of Zurich (electric and 
cable tramway, see p. 39), are the Waldhavs Bolder Restaurant 
(p. 40) and (10 min. farther up) the large *Dolder Grand Hotel 
(2050'; R. 3-10, B. I1/2, dej. 3'/ 2 , D. 5 fr. ; closed in winter), 
with a park and charming view of the lake and the Alps. 

Attractive walks may be taken through the woods to the C/2 hr.) 
forester's house of Adlisoerg (2100' ; inn in summer), the C/4 hr.) Looren- 
kopf (2305'; view), and other points. 

The Uetliberg. 

Railway to the top in V2 hr. (fare, 1st class 3 fr. 50 c, 2nd cl. 2 fr., 
return-ticket, 5 and 3 fr.; on Sun. and holidays by excursion -trains 1 fr., 
return-fare l'/» fr. ; season-tickets at reduced fares; ticket including rail- 
way-fare, and room, supper, and breakfast at the Hotel Uetliberg, 8 fr.). 
This line. 5'/s M. long, with a maximum gradient of 7: 100, is constructed 
in the ordinary way, but, as on the Rigi Railway, the locomotives arc 
placed behind the trains. The station (PI. F, 1) is on the right bank of 
the Sihl, 1/(11. from the Central Station and '/;M, from that of Enge. 

The train (best views to the right) skirts the Sihl for a short 
way and crosses it to (5 min.) stat. Ziirich-Binz (1390'), where the 
ascent begins. At first we traverse an open slope, with a pleasant 
view of Zurich and the valley of the Limmat ; then ascend through 
wood to (17 min.) stat. Waldegg (2040'; inn). The train describes 
along curve on the slope of the hill and reaches the terminus (2677'). 



UETLIBERG. I. Route 13. 47 

About 5 min. above the station is the large *H6t.-Pens. Vetliberg (R. 
2-4, B. li/ g , D. 31/2-4, pens. 8-12 fr. ; Engl. Ch. Serv. in Aug.), 
and 3 min. higher, at the top, are the Restaurant Uto-Kulm and 
a view-tower 100 'high (167 steps; adm. 20 c). Pleasant shady walks 
near the hotel. On the S. side, 'y^hr. from the top, are the *H6tel 
Uto-Stajfel (R. 17 2 -2, D. 2-2'/ 2 , pens. 51/2 ft.) and the "Hotel- 
Pension Annaburg (pens. 7-9 fr.), with a restaurant. 

The *Uetliberg (2865'), the northernmost point of the Albis 
range , is the finest point near Zurich. The view, though less 
grand than those from heights nearer the Alps, surpasses them in 
beauty. It embraces the Lake of Zurich and the valley of the Lim- 
mat; the Alps from the Sentis to the Jungfrau and the Stockhorn 
on the Lake of Thun, with the Rigi and Pilatus in the foreground ; 
to the W. the Jura; to the N. the Feldberg and Belchen in the Black 
Forest, and the volcanic peaks of the Hohgau. Good panorama by 
Keller. — On the Uto-Kulm is a marble obelisk with a bust of the 
Zurich statesman Jakob Dubs (d. 1879). 

Walk to the Uetlibekg (2 hrs.). The road leads from the Parade- 
Platz (PI. F, 3) via. the Bleicher-Weg, the Beder-Strasse, and the Uto- 
Strasse. After 1 M. we cross the Sihl, turn to the left via, the Giesshiibel- 
Strasse, and reach ( 3 /4 M.) the Albtigutli (tavern; cab to this point 2-3 fr.). 
We now turn to the right, follow the Uetliberg-Strafse to the new Schutzen- 
haus (restaurant), and then ascend by a well-trodden path, winding some- 
what steeply up the valley, to the (i hr.) ffdtel Uto-Staffel (see above), on 
the brow of the hill, where a view of the Rigi, Pilatus, and the Bernese 
Alps is disclosed. To the summit 20 min. more. 

Fkom the Uetlieekq to the Albis-Hoohwaoht, a beautiful walk of 
3 hrs., ascending and descending on the Albis range, and chiefly through 
wood. A few minutes' walk beyond the Hotel Uto-Staffel (see above), at 
the fork, we follow the road to the right, which alternates with a foot- 
path, keeping nearer the E. margin of the hill and affording beautiful 
views. Beyond Baltern (inn) we reach (U/t hr.) the Feltenegg (restaurant; 
view). To the left is the ravine of the Sihl, beyond it the blue lake with 
its thousand glittering dwellings, to the right the pretty Turler See, and 
farther off a fertile hilly tract, with the Alps rising in the distance. — 
1 hr. Nieder-Albis (2600 1 ; Hirsch; Windegg Restaurant); 20 min. Albis- 
Hochwacht (2887'), with a pavilion and a splendid view of the Lake of Zug, 
the Rigi, Pilatus, etc. At (1/4 hr.) a fork we may ascend to the right 
to the ( 3 /4 hr.) Albishorn (3010') with a beautiful view, or descend to the 
left, through woods, to ('/a hr.) the forester's house of Unter- Sihlwald 
(good quarters), on the Sihl, whence we may reach Zurich by the Sihlthal 
Line in 3/4 hr. 

Sihlthal Railway from Ziirich to Sihlbrugg , 11 M. in 52 min., via 
Sood, Adliswil, Qontenbach, Langnau-Qattikon, and Sihlwald. Near the station 
of Qontenbach ('/a hr. by rail) is the Langenberg, a park l'/s M. in length, 
belonging to the town of Zurich and stocked with deer, chamois, etc. 
(restaurant). From (9 M.) Sihlwald a footpath leads to the (1 hr.) Albis- 
horn (see above). Sihlbrugg, and thence to Zug, see p. 91. 

14. From Zurich to Coire. Lakes of Zurich and 
Walenstadt. 

Railways. — N.E. Railway (Nordostbahn ; line on the right bank) from 
Zurich via, Meilen to RapperswU, 22'/2 M., in l 1 /* hr. (fares 3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 



48 I. Route U. LAKE OF ZURICH. From Zurich. 

30, I fr. 65 c). — N.E. Railway (line on the left bank) via Richtefswil 
to Ziegelbriicke (p. 52, junction for Weesen and Sargans), 35'/2 M.. in 
li/j-2 hrs. (6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 25, 3 fr. 5 c); to Glarus, 43 M., in 13/«-2'/j hrs. 
(7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 60 c). Comp. R. 21. - United Swiss Railways (Ver- 
einigle Schweizerbahnen) via Wallisellen, Rapperswil, Weesen, and Sargana 
to Coire, 79 31., in 3'/«-5 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 45, 8 fr. 75, 6 fr. 25 c). This 
line does not approach the Lake of Zurich till it reaches Rapperswil. 

Steamboat from Zurich via Horgen , Wadenswi], and Stafa to Rap- 
perswil twice daily in summer in 2 hrs. — In fine weather, on Sun., two 
trips (2.55 and 5 p.m.) are made to Horgen and hack (in 2 hrs.). — Journeys 
across the Lake of Zurich, see pp. 49, 50. 

The Lake of Zurich(1340'),25M. long, 2i/ 2 M. broad at its widest 
part, and 470' deep, is fed by the Linth and drained by the Limmat. 
The banks rise in gentle slopes; at their base are meadows and 
arable land; above these is a belt of vineyards and orchards; and 
on the E. side the hills, about 2500' high, are wooded. Sprinkled 
for a long way with houses, villages, and manufactories, the banks 
may not unaptly be termed suburbs of Zurich. In the background 
rises the long chain of the snow-clad Alps (see p. 41). 

a. N.E. Railway from Zubich to Meilen and Rapperswil 
(Right Bank). Central Railway Station, p. 38. The train curves to 
the N.E. (to the left the viaduct of the line to Winterthur, p. 56) 
and crosses the Limmat. 2 M. Zurich-Letten, with the pumping 
works for the Zurich water-supply (interesting to engineers ; adm. 
free). The train ascends the right bank of the Limmat for a short 
time, beyond the Drahtschmidli passes under the Zurichberg by a 
tunnel (2288 yds.), and reaches (3'/ 2 M.) Zurich- Stadelhof en, in 
the square of that name (PI. E, 5), near the Uto-Quai. The line then 
passes under the suburb of Neumihnster by another tunnel (1463 
yds.), and emerges at (5 M.) Zurich- Tie fenbrunnen, with its villas 
and gardens (tram to Zurich, p. 39). About 3 / 4 M. to the W. is 
the Ziirichhorn Park (p. 40). — 6 M. Zollikon; the village, with 
its slender spire, lies above, to the left. — 7'/ 2 M. Kiisnacht (*Sonne, 
on the lake, with garden; Falke; Seegarten Restaurant) , a large 
village (3382 inhab.), with a seminary for teachers. — 9 M. Erlen- 
bach (Kreuz ; Pension Seehof), beautifully situated. The train passes 
through cuttings and a short tunnel, then runs high above the lake 
(views). — 10i/ 2 M. Herrliberg - Feldmeilen (Hot. Raben), opposite 
Horgen (p. 50). — 12>/ 2 M. Meilen (*Lowe, on the lake; Sonne; 
Rail. Restaurant; Bellevue) , a large village (3214 inhab.) with an 
old church, at the base of the Pfannenstiel. At Obermeilen (Hirsch, 
not expensive), 3 / 4 M. to the E., lake-dwellings were first discovered 
in 1854. 

The Pfannenstiel (OkenshShe, 2418'), to which a good path ascends from 
Meilen in 1 hr., affords a charming view of the lakes of Zurich and Greifen 
and of the Alps from the Sentis to Pilatus (panorama hy Keller). At the top 
a monument to L. Oken (d. 1851), the naturalist, and a refreshment-pavilion. 

Steamboat from Meilen to Horgen (p. 50) 12 times daily in 12 minutes. 

141/., M. Uetikon (Krone; Rail. Restaurant), with a manufactory 
of sulphurio acid. — 15 M. Mannedorf (* Wildenmann, on the lake, 
with garden, I!. l 1 /2-2'/_>, IV 1, pens. 5-6 fr. ; Lowe), a large village 



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to Coire. RAPPERSWIL. Map, p. 48.— I. B. 14. 49 

(2894 inhab.), with the Zeller Institute ('faith cure'). The high- 
lying churchyard affords an extensive view. — 17 M. Stafa (pop. 
4222; Sonne; Rossli und Verenahof, pens, from 4^2 fr.), the largest 
village on the N. bank. To the W., at Uetikon, on the lake, is the 
Patriots' Monument, by A. Bosch, erected in 1898. The lake now 
attains its greatest width (2^2 M.). To the E., in the background, 
rises the Speer (p. 53); to the left of it the Sentis and the Toggen- 
burg Mts. ; to the right, above the lake, the wooded Hohe Rhonen 
(4040'). Steamers to Wadenswil and Richterswil (p. 50). — 
18 M. Uerikon. — 20 M. Feldbach (Rossli; Feldbach Brewery, with 
restaurant). 

To the right, in the lake (reached by small boat from Eapperswil in 
'/s hr.), are the small islands of Liilzelau and Ufnau, in front of the wooded 
Etzel. Ufnau, the property of the abbey of Einsiedeln, contains a farmhouse, 
and a church and chapel consecrated in 1141. Ulrich von Hutten, the Re- 
former, one of the boldest and most independent men of his time, sought 
refuge here when pursued by his enemies in 1523, and died a fortnight 
after his arrival, at the age of 36. His remains repose in the little church- 
yard, but the exact spot is unknown. 

22t/ 2 M. Rapperswil {^Hotel-Pension du Lac, R. 2-3, B. li/ 4 , 
D. 3, S. 21/2, pens. 51/2-6 fr. ; *Cygne, R. 2-3, B. iy 4 , D. 2y 2 , pens. 
5-7 fr., both on the lake; *Post, at the rail, station, with garden, 
R. 2, B. 1, D. 2 fr. ; Freihof, in the town; Bellevue, Steinbock, on 
the lake; Stadthof, Ziircher-Str. ; Sonne; Rossli; Speer Restaurant, 
at the station, with garden), a picturesquely situated town (3409 
inhab.), lies at the foot of the Lindenhof, a hill planted with limes 
(fine view). The Rathhaus , in the market-place, dating from the 
15th cent., contains the town archives (500 documents), some guild 
cups, and other interesting objects. The old Schloss (14th cent.) 
contains a black marble column with the Polish eagle, in memory 
of the beginning of the long struggle of the Poles for independence, 
and the Polish National Museum , founded by Count R. Plater, in- 
cluding pictures, sculptures, antiquities, weapons, uniforms, 
cameos, coins, and a library (adm. 1-fr. ; splendid view from the 
tower). The little chapel , in the courtyard, contains a bronze urn 
with the heart of Kosciuszko (d. 1817), transferred hither from 
Zuchwil in 1887. The Parish Church, re-erected since a Are in 1881, 
contains valuable sacred vessels. At the foot of the Lindenhof on 
the lake are shady promenades , to which also steps descend from 
the Schloss and from the terrace in front. In 1878 the old wooden 
bridge connecting Eapperswil with (1 M.) Hurden (Adler; Rossli) 
and Pfdfftkon (p. 50) was replaced by the Seedamm, a viaduct 1024 
yds. long , with an iron swing-bridge 46' long (railway from Rap- 
perswil via Pfaffikon to Samstagern-Einsiedeln, see p. 50). 

From Eapperswil to Weesen and Coire, see p. 52. 



b. N.E. Railway prom ZDbich to Ziegelbrucke (Left Bank). 
The train describes a wide curve round the town, crossing the 
Bakdf.ker, Switzerland. 19th Kdition. 4 



50 /. R. 14.—Map,p. 48. WADENSWIL. From Zurich 

Sihl twice, passes under the Uetliberg line, and at (2'/ 2 M.) Ziirich- 
Enge (p. 33) approaches the lake. — 3*/ 2 M. Zurich -Wollishof en 
(Hirsch ; Restaurant & Pension Frohalp , ] / 2 M. higher up , pens. 
5-7 i'r.). Pretty view from the 'Riviera', a wooden belvedere l fa}a. 
above the lake. — 5!/ 2 M. Bendlikon- Kilchberg. Above (7 M.) 
Riischlikon (Hotel-Pension Bel voir, pens. 5-7 fr.) is the Nidelbad 
(1 M. by road; pens. 6-10 fr.), a sanatorium for nervous patients, 
with a chalybeate spring and pleasant walks. — 7'/ 2 M. Thalwil 
(1436'; * Hotel-Pennon Katha- rinenhof, with terrace, R. 2, B. 1, 
D. 2, pens. 5 fr.; *Adler, near the church, unpretending; Krone, 
on the lake, with garden, R. 1-2, pens. 4 fr.), a well-to-do village 
of 7000 iuhab., with large factories, is charmingly situated at the 
junction of the Zug line (p. 91). — 8 3 /4M. Oberrieden. — lO'^M. 
Horgen {Meyerhof, at the station, with a fine view of the lake, 
R. 2, B. 1, D. 2^1 pens, jrom 5 fr. ; Lowe; Schutzenhaus, a caW 
on the lake), a thriving place with 6878 inhab., pleasantly situated 
amidst vineyards and orchards. In the church are two large frescoes 
by Barzaghi. 

Steamboat to Meilen (p. 48) 12 times daily in 12 min. ; to Herrliberg 
6 times in 13 min. — About fVa M. above Horgen is the Curhaut Bocieit 
(pens. 6-7 fr.), beautifully situated. — Fine view from the 'Zimmerberg 
(2535'; lhr.); see p. 91. 

Near (13 M.) Au the grassy peninsula of that name projects far 
into the lake (*H6tel-Pension Au , 5 fr.). — 15 M. Wadenswil 
(1345'; *Engel, facing the quay, R. 2-2 y 2 , B. 1, D. 2i/ 2 , pens. 
5-7 fr. ; Hotel du Lac; Bellevue Restaurant, well spoken of) is the 
largest village on the lake (7560 inhab.). A visit may be paid to 
the intercantonal experimental station for viticulture and fruit- 
growing, established in the old castle. 

Railway to Eintiedeln, see R. 81; diligence twice daily in l'/« hr. via 
Schonenberg to Htitten (p. 118). — Steamer from Wadenswil to Stafa (p. 49), 
direct or via Mannedorf, 8 times duily in 12-24 minutes. 

17 M. Eichterswil (pop. 4084; *Drei Konige, with garden, 
R. 1V2-2, B. 1, D. 21/2, pens, from 5 fr. ; *Engel, on the lake, R. 2, 
D. 2'/ 2 , pens. 5fr.), another thriving village, prettily situated. 

Steamboat from Richterswil to Stafa (p. 49) 6 times daily in ] /« hr. 

The lake attains its greatest width here. 18'/ 2 M. Bach. To the 
left are the islands of Ufnau and Liitzelau (p. 49). — 22 M. 
Pfaffikon (*H6t. Hofe). 

Railway across the lake to Rapperiwil, see p. 49; railway via Wollerau 
to Samstagem (Einsiedeln, etc.), see p. 118. Pleasant walk via, the health- 
resort of ('/ 2 hr.) Lugeten (2130" ; 'Hotel-Pension, 4-5 fr.) to C/2 hr.) F eusisberg 
(p. 118) and (»/« hr.) Schindellegi (p. 118). Ascent of the Etzel, see p. 119. 

The line now reaches the Upper Lake. On the slope to the right, 
above Altendorf, are the chapel of St. Johann (1656') and the 
Pension Johannesburg (pens. 4-5 fr.), with a fine view. 

2ii/ 2 M. Lachen (1360'; "Bar, R. 2, 1!. 1, D. 2i/ 2 , pens. 5 fr. ; 
"Ochs; Hotel Bahnhof, well spoken of), a considerable village with 
a pretty rococo church, on a bay near the mouth of the WaggithaUr 



to Coire. TJSTEB, Map, p. 48.— I. R. 14. 51 

Aa. About 2 M. to the N.E. is tlie small Bad Nuolen , pleasantly 
situated at the base of the Untere Buchberg, -with mineral and lake 
baths (pens. 4'/2 _ 6 ft'.). — The train leaves the lake and near 
(27*/2 M.) Siebnen-Wangen crosses the Aa. 

Waggi-Thal. The road from (3/4 M.) Siebnen ("Rabe) follows first the 
left and then the right bank of the deep bed of the Aa to (4 M.) Vorder- 
Waggitkal (2400' ; 'Rossli , plain) , pleasantly situated in a green basin. 
It then leads through the defile of Stockerli, between the Grosse Auberg 
(5570') on the right and the Gugelberg (3780') on the left, to (4 M.) ffinter- 
Waggithal , or Innerthal (3800' ; 'Schafli, unpretending). Pleasant excur- 
sions to the Au (20 min.); E. to the Flcischenloch - Quelle ('/* hr.); to the 
Aaberli-Alp (3545'), >/» hr -; Hohflaschen-Alp (4725'), I'/s hr. — The Grosse 
Auberg (5570'), ascended by the Barlaui-Alp in 3 hrs., and the Fluhberg or 
Diethelm (6873'), by the Fldschli-Alp in 4 hrs., are fine points (no difficulty; 
guide desirable). — From Innerthal to the Klonthal, pleasant (to Richisau 
§1/2 hrs. ; guide advisable). Skirting the Aabach, the path ascends, past the 
Aabern-Alp (3565'), to the (2 l /2 hrs.) Schweinalp Pass (5150'), and then descends 
by the Brilsch-Alp and the Schuiein-Alp to (1 hr.) Richisau (p. 85). 

"We traverse a marshy plain to (31 M.J Reichenburg. — 333/ 4 M. 
Bilten (Hirsch). One of the houses contains the 'Herrenstube', a 
handsome room in the Renaissance style (1616-18). The *Hirzli 
(5385'), which rises to the S., may be ascended in 31/2 hrs. (guide 
5-6 fr.). — We cross the Linth Canal (p. 52) [to the Coire line at 
(351/2 M.) Ziegelbriicke (p. 52). To (43 M.) Glarus, see p. 77. 



c. Railway from ZObjch tia Uster and Weesen to Sargans. 
From Zurich to (5^2 M.) Wallisellen, see p. 56. The line traverses 
a flat district, near the right bank of the Olatt, which flows out of 
the neighbouring Greifensee (1440'). 7 M. Dubendorf ; 8^/4 M. 
Schwerzenbaeh ; 10^2 M. Ndnikon. — 12!/ 2 M. TJster (1530' ; pop. 
7600; Vsterhof, R. li/ 2 -3, B. 1, D. incl. wine 2%, pens. 6-8 fr. ; 
Stern ; Kreuz), a manufacturing place. On the right are the church 
with its pointed spire , and the loftily situated old castle with its 
massive tower, the seat of the district-court (restaurant ; fine view). 
About 3 M. to the S. is the Curhaus Monchallorf, with a chalybeate 
spring (pens. 4-5 fr.). — Beyond (15 M.) Aathal - Seegraben the 
Alps of Glarus and Schwyz form the S. background. From (17 M.) 
Wetzikon (Schweizerhof) branch-lines lead to the N."W. to Pfaffikon 
and Effretikon (p. 66), and to the E. (10 min.) to Hinwil (Hirsch; 
Kreuz), at theN.W. base of theBachtel (see below). Near (20 '^M.) 
Bubikon (Lowe ; Schweizerhof) the line attains its highest level 
(1800'). — 221/2 M. Riiti (Pfau), with engine -works and silk- 
factories, junction of the Tbssthal Line (p. 57). 

The 'Baehtel (3670' ; "Inn; view-tower, 100'), 2 hrs. to the N.E. of Riiti, 
commands a fine view to the N.W. over the TJster district, sprinkled with 
factories, and the lakes of Greifen and Pfaffikon; to the S. the Lake of 
Zurich from Wadensweil to the influx of the Linth Canal, the Linth Valley 
as far as the bridge of Mollis, and the Alps from the Sentis to the Bernese 
Oberland. See Kellers Panorama, at the inn. It is best ascended from Gibswil 
(p. 57;8i/2M. to the N. of Riiti) in 1 hr., from Wald (p. 57; 41/2 M.) inli/2hr., 
or from Hinwil (see above; small carriage to the top 7 fr.), in l'/2hr. 

4* 



52 I.R.14.—Maps,pp.48,62. WEESEN. From Zurich 

Beyond a tunnel the train descends, chiefly through wood. 
Near Jona (Schliissel), a manufacturing village almost adjoining 
Rapperswil, we descry the Alps of Schwyz to the S., and farther on, 
the Miirtscnenstock, Schaniser Berg, Speer, and Sentis on the left. 

26 M. Rapperswil (Rail. Restaurant), see p. 49. The station 
is a terminus, where the train reverses its direction. Views to the 
right as far as Weesen. We cross the Jona, pass the nunnery and 
girls' school of Wurmspach on the right , and return to the lake 
near Bollingen. Large quarries. — 32 M. Schmerikon (*Qasthof 
zum Bad, R. l-li/ 2 fr., B. 80 c, pens. 4-5 fr. ; *Rbssli; *Seehof; 
Adler), at the upper end of the lake, near the mouth of the Linth. 
We now enter a broad valley traversed by that river (see below). 
To the right, on the N.E. spur of the Untere Buchberg (p. 51), 
stands the ancient Schloss Qrynau , with a frowning square tower. 

34!/2M- Utznaeh {Linthof; Station Hotel, well spoken of, both at 
the station), a manufacturing village (1378'; 1920 inhab. ; *Ochs; 
Falke; Krone), lies on a hill to the left, overlooked by its church. 
(Diligence to Wattwil 4 times daily in 2 i / i hrs., p. 72. ) To the left, 
on the hill, the monastery of Sion (2317'). — 36'/2 M. Kaltbrunn- 
Benken. The former (Hirsch) lies 1 M. to the N. of the railway- 
station, while Benken (Station Hotel, with shady garden) is 1/2 ^- t0 
the S. The wooded range on the right is the Obere Buehberg (2020'). 

A carriage-road leads from the station of Kaltbrunn-Benken or Utznaeh 
to (3M.) Rieden (2360 1 ; -Pension Rossli, 37i.fr.), a health-resort, commanding 
charming views. Excursions may be made thence to the (2 hrs.) Regelitein 
(4324' ; view) ; to the Speer (p. 53), in 3>/2 hrs. ; via Alp Breitemu to (2 hrs.) 
Ebnat-Kappel (p. 72), etc. 

Beyond (40 M.) Schanis (1450'; 1871 inhab. ; *Hirsch; Lowe), 
another industrial place, the ancient frontier of Rhsetia, we approach 
the Linth Canal, constructed in 1807-22 to connect the Lake of 
Zurich with the Walensee, and draining, in conjunction with the 
Escher Canal, a once dismal and swampy region. The canal runs 
parallel with the railway at the foot of the Schaniser Berg (5470'); 
to the right, a striking view of the Valley of Glarns with its snow- 
mountains. On the opposite bank of the Linth Canal is the Linth- 
Colonie, now an agricultural institution. 

42 M. Ziegelbriicke ('"Hotel) is the junction of the Glarus line, 
which soon again diverges to the right (p. 77). The Weesen line 
rounds the Biberlikopf (p. 53), the extreme spur of the Schaniser 
Berg. To the right tower the beautiful Rautispitz and the Glarnisch. 

4572 M. Weesen. — Hotels. "Hotel Speer, at the station, '/3 M - 
from the lake, with fine view, R. 2-3, B. I1/4, lunch 2'/2, D. 3, pens. 5>/2-7> 
omn. 1/2 fr. ; *Hc">t. Mariahalden, in an elevated situation, with terrace, 
R. 2-31/2, B. l>/4, D. 3, S. 2, pens. 6-8 fr. ; "Schwert, R. 2>/«, B. l»/4, lunch 2, 
D. 3, pens, from 5 fr. ; "Rossli, R. 2-2'/ 2 , B. I-IV4, ». 2»/2, S. l 3 /4, pens. 
4'/2-5'/2fr. ; Hirsoh. — Rail. Restaurant. — English Church Service in summer. 
— Post ;ind Telegraph Office, 1 /tU. from the station. 

Weesen (1425'; 745 inhab.), a favourite summer-resort, lies in 
a sheltered site at the W. end of the Walensee. A shady promenade 



to Coire. WALEWSKE. Maps,pp.62,78.~ I. R.14. 53 

skirts the lake, affording charming views. The Klosterberg yields 
good wine. 

Excursions. Shady paths ascend to the (25 min.) Kapfenberg, which 
affords a charming survey. — Pleasant walk (from the station 3 /« hr., or 
from stat. Ziegelbriicke 20 min.) to the top of the Biberlikopf (1895') ; fine 
view of the Walensee and of the Linththal up to Netstal and down to the 
Buchberg. — A very attractive excursion may be made by boat across the 
lake to ( 3 A hr.) the hamlet of Betlie, prettily situated beside the ruin of 
Strahlegg, at the foot of the Leistkamm. Fine view of Miihlehorn, the 
Murtschenstoek, etc. From Betlis we may walk to the ruined Seren-Miihle and 
the Falls of the Sereribach (see below), or we may ascend to (1 hr.) Amden. 

A road (diligence from the rail, station twice daily in IV2 hr. ; one- 
horse carr. 10 fr.), with fine views of the lake (shady in the evening), 
ascends from Weesen to (4 l /2 M.) Amden (3080'; 'Birsch), loftily situated on 
sunny pastures. Beautiful view of the lake, the Murtschenstoek, etc., from 
the Gyregarti, on the roadside, IV2 M. from Weesen. — From Amden 
to the Leistkamm (6905'), 4 hrs. , with guide (8 fr. ; Thoma of Amden), easy 
and interesting. — From Amden to Starkenbach or Stein in the Toggenburg 
(p. 72) over the Amdener Berg (5055'), 5 hrs. (no guide required), a route 
affording beautiful views, but fatiguing on account of the stone pavement. 

The "Speer (6415'), an admirable point of view, 4>/2 hrs. (guide, 7 fr., 
not indispensable). By the finger-post at the N. end of Weesen we turn 
to the left, and ascend for the first '/> hr. over rough pavement of conglom- 
erate (pleasant retrospects of the lake). Then a steep ascent through woods 
and meadows; 2V2 hrs. Untere Biitz-Alp (4305'); 1 hr. Ober-Kasern Alp 
(5425'; "Inn ram Hohen Speer). Thence to the left to the top, a steep 
ascent of 3 /t-l hr. more. Beautiful view over E. and N.E. Switzerland. From 
Ebnat or Nesslau (p. 72) the Speer is ascended in 5 hrs. 

The *Walensee, or Lake of Walenstadt (1385'), 9i/ 4 M. long, 
l l /i M. wide, 495' deep, is hardly inferior to the Lake of Lucerne 
in grandeur. The N. bank consists of precipices, 2000' to 3000' 
high, above which rise the barren peaks of the Curflrsten (Leistkamm 
6905', Selun 7245', Frilmsel 7440', Brisi 7480', Zustoll 7345', 
Scheibenstoll 7342', and Hinterruck 7575'). The hamlet of Quinten 
alone has found a site on the N. bank. On the S. bank also the rocks, 
pierced by nine tunnels, are very precipitous at places. At the mouths 
of the small torrents which descend from the Murtschenstoek (8012') 
lie several villages. The 'Electra', a small electric launch, plies on 
the lake, if ten passengers present themselves (round of the lake 
in 3 hrs. ; fare 1 fr. 80 c). 

Beyond Weesen we cross the Linth Canal (to the right the 
Glarus line, see R. 21), and, farther on, the Escher Canal near its 
influx into the Walensee, and pass through two tunnels. Beyond 
them we see the Bayerbach waterfall on the opposite bank, and the 
village of Amden on the hill above ; then the falls of the Serenbach, 
which sometimes dry up in summer. Three more tunnels, between 
which we obtain pleasant glimpses of the lake and the waterfalls 
opposite. — 10^2 M. Miihlehorn (Zur Miihle , Tellsplatte, both 
unpretending). 

A fine new road (recommended to pedestrians) leads from Miihlehorn 
via, (2/ 3 M.) Tiefenwinkel (brewery) and (l 3 /* M.) Murg to (LV2 M ) Unter- 
Terzen and (3 M.) Walenstadt (p. 55). 

Fbom Muhlehobn to Mollis over the Kebenzenberg (3 hrs.), an inter- 
esting walk. The road (diligence to Obstalden thrice daily in 55min., fare 
50 c. ; one-horse carriage 5, two-horse 8 fr.) ascends in wide curves 



54 I.R.14.~Map,p.78. MURG. From Zurich 

(short-cats for walkers) to Voglingen and (3M.) Obatalden (2237'- "Binch 
pens. 5 fr.; -Stem, pens. 5-5y 2 fr., both with gardens), a charmingly situated 
summer-resort, affording a fine view of the Walensee. A pleasant excursion 
may be made hence, or from Filzbach (see below), to the (l'/s hr.) pretty 
Thalalp-See (6310) Thence via the Spannegg and the Flatten- Alp toGlarus 
see p. 78; from the Spannegg to the MUrtschen-Alp and over the Murgtee- 
Furkel to the ilurgseen, see below. The Miirtschenstock (8012') may be 
ascended from Obstalden via, the Meeren-Alp 1 4.120') in 5 hrs. (toilsome and 
for thorough adepts only ; guide, Jac. Heussi. 20 fr.). — Beyond Obstalden 
the road skirts the Sallerntobel. H/4 M. Filzbach (2335'; Hit. Miirtfchmttock, 
pens. 4-5 fr.; Rossli, plain), a village also frequented as a summer-resort! 
From the Britlerhbhe (2920'), reached in '/ 2 br. by ascending to the left (anger- 
post), we enjoy an admirable view of the Walensee aod the mountains of 
Toggenbnrg and Glarus; a more extensive view is obtained from the 
Neuenkamm{Q1b3l), reached via Habergsehwendin 3V«hrs. (guide desirable). - 
The road ascends for a short distance, and then descends steadily. In 20 min. 
we reach a point (right), affording a good view of the head of the Walensee, 
the valley of the Linih Canal, bounded on the left by the Hirzli (5385'), and 
the Wiggis chain. Near (3 31.) Beglingen we get a glimpse of the Glarnisch 
and the Todi, and then descend in windings (avoided by short-cuts) to (1 M.) 
Mollis (p. 77). 'ii 

Two more tunnels. To the left lies Quinten (see p. 53), con- 
nected with Murg by a telephone-wire across the lake. 

50M. Murg [Schiffli, Rossli, both well spoken of, pens. 4-5fr. ; 
Birsch, all plain), charmingly situated at the mouth of the Murg- 
thal. with a spinning-mill. 

Pleasant footpaths lead to C/4 hr.) Quarten, (H/2 hr ) Obttalden, and 
other points. Hue views of the Walensee and Curfirsten. 

A visit to the Murgthal, a valley 12 M. long, is recommended (guide 
unnecessary). A good road ascends to the right from the spinning-mill 
to the mill-reservoir, passing a monument to the patriotic Hiinrich Simon 
of Breslau (d. 1S6U), just b. yond whi. h a short-cut ( Wa>se fall') diverges 
to the left. Beyond the reservoir, whence the road gees on to th- second 
bridge (see below), we take the footpath leading to the left to (25 min.) 
a projection oppo'i'e the pretty F„U of the Murg. At the (2 min.) iron 
bridge above the fall (1930') we join a path from Murg on the right 
bank, by which we may now return. Or we may diverge from it to the 
right after 6 min. and follow a narrow but distinct path to (35 min.) Quarten 
(p. 5)). — From the first bridge paths ascend on both sides of the Murg to 
the (V2 hr.) i-ecnnd bridge (2430'). After a steep ascent of V, hr. on the left 
bank the path returns to the Murg and crosses it by a third bridge at the 
O/jhr.) beginning of the Merlen-Alp (3640'). [To the right diverges the route 
to the Murtschen-Alp (see below; i/ 2 hr. farther np are the fills of the 
Sponbach, in a wild ravine).] The track then ascends on the right bank, 
through meadows and wood and past the Bachlaui and Mornen Alps, to 
the (2i/ 2 hrs.) three Murgseen (5490', 5955', and 5980'). From the highest 
lake the "Roththor (8250') may be ascended in 2 hrs. (guide desirable, 4fr.; 
the fisherman or a herdsman); striking view (W. the Glarnisch, S.W. 
the Todi, S.E. the Calanda, E. the Scesaplana, N. the Sentis and Cur- 
firsten, N.W. the hi)]-country of Zurich). — From the highest lake a rough 
path crosses the Murg Pass, or Widerstein- Furkel (66060, to the Muhlebach- 
Thal and (2'/* hrs. J Engi in the Sernfthal (p. 861; another (guide 17 fr.) 
leads over the Murgsee-Furkel (6570') to the Murtschen-Alp (6060'), and 
then past the Miirtschenstock and Fronalpstock to the Heuboden-Alp (p. 79) 
and (5 hrs.) Qlarus. Or, from the Miirtsclien-Alp we may proceed via the 
Spannegg (p. 79) to the Thalalp-See and to (4>/ 2 hrs.) Obstalden (see above). 

Beyond Murg, another tunnel ; above, to the right, lies Quar- 
ten fp. 55). — 5*2 M. Vnter-Terzen (Blumenau; Bahnhof Hotel ; 

Freieck). 



to Coire. WALEJNSTADT. Maps,pp.62,78. — I. B.U. 55 

A fine new rood ascends hence to the Tight to (IVs M.) ftuarten (1760'; 
"Curhaus Quarten pen", from 5 fr), charmingly 'ituated. with a n w 
church. rrom Quarim a f n tpath (views) Uads along the mount an-slope 
to ('/4 hr ) the Murg Fall (p. Li). Annih' r an 1 higher p<iih leads, linally 
through wood, to the (!'■« hr.) second brid e in tlie Murgthal (p. 54). — A 
pleasant excursion may be made from Quarten (w'th guide), via Ober- 
Terzen (road to this point), t' th • (3 hrs.) three See wen Lak s (532"'). We 
return by the Molvrer-Alp (6u6o r ) and the saddle between the Munzk'pf 
and the Breitmantel, which affords a fin^ view of the Murischenstiick and 
other peaks. ' 'n reaching (l 3 /4 hr.) the Mum-Alp (583/) we i.escend either 
through the Kobelwald to (I '/< hi.) Quarten, or (steep) to the (1 hr.) Bachlaui- 
Alp in ihe Murgthal (p. 54). 

On the steep rocks opposite are several waterfalls ; to the right, 
the village of Mols (*Thalhof, R. 1 1/2, B - 3 /rl> pens. 4 fr.). Then a 
tunnel and a bridge across the Seez Canal. 

55 M. Walenstadt (1420'; *Hdtet- Pension Churflrsten, at the 
station, K. l'/ 2 -2, B. 1, D. 2, pens. iy 2 -bi/ 2 ti.; *Uirsch, Krone, 
Harmonie, Sonne), a little town with 3000 ,nhab., lies '/2 M. from 
the E. end of the lake, on which is the *H<it.-Pens. Seehof. 

Excursion (with guide ; Franz DortJ from Walenstadt by a steep 
path through wood to the (2 hrs.) Alp Losis (43?0'); then, nearly level, via. 
the Vordere and Hintere Biils-Alp to (l'/s hr.j the Tschingeln-Alp (4985'; 
milk). We then follow the slopes of the Curtirsten, with a series of beau- 
tiful views, ti (1 hr.) Obevsa-i (ca. 5G40'), de" end thence to the (1/2 hr.) 
Schrmen-Alp (4110'; Curhaus ticliiina-Hochruck, pens, d-31/2 fr.), and re- 
turn to (1V2 hi'.) Walenstadt, via, Untertass (ascent from Walenstadt to 
Schrinen ^1/2-8 hrs. ; road under construction). On we may proceed from 
the Schrinen-Alp via, the ('/a hr.) Schwuldis-Alp (i825') to the Sals-Alp 
(4655), go on by the Stdfeli to the (1 hr.) Laubegy-Alp (4510), and then 
descend by a steep but safe path to (i'/2 hr.) Qumten (see p. 54), whence 
the lake is crossed by boat to Murg. — ToAmden via the Leittkamm 
(6905'), 8-9 hrs. with guide (15 fr.), attractive but fatiguing (comp. p. 53). 
— To Wildhaos in the Toggenburg (p. 72) a rough path, with splendid 
views, crosses the Kaserruck (7435' ; 6 hrs. ; guide 15 fr.). 

We now ascend the broad valley of the Seez. On a rock to the 
right, the ruins of Qraplang (Romanic Crap Long), or Langenstein ; 
to the left, on a rocky height above Berschis, the pilgrimage-church 
of St. Oeorgen (1940')- — 571/2 M. Flums (1455' ; Zum Seezthal). 
To the S.W. opens the Schilbach-Thal. In the background rise the 
Weissmeilen (8135') and the strangely formed Spitzmeilen (8218'). — 
Near (62 M.) Mels (1607'; Melserhof, at the station, R. 1-2, B. 1, 
T>. 2 fr. ; Frohsinri) the Seez descends from the Weisstannen-Thal, 
a valley to the S.W. 

The "Alvier (7753'), an admirable point of view, may be ascended 
hence in 5 hrs. (guide, 10 fr., unnecessary for adepts). The path ascends 
steeply from the station to the right to the (3 hrs.) Alp Palfries (4850'; 
Curhaus, pens. 3'/2-472 fr.i plain), traverses steep and rocky slopes, and 
(2 hrs.) reaches the summit through a narrow cleft by steps cut in the rock 
(club-hut). The view embraces the Rhine Valley, the EhBetikon, and the 
Vorarlberg, Appenzell, and Glarus Mts. (good panorama by Simon). Good 
paths ascend from Flums, Sevelen, Buchs, and Triibbaeh (comp. p. 70). 

From Mels to Vattis, through the Weisstannen-Thal and Cal/eisen-Thal 
(diligence to Weisstannen daily in 3 hrs.; fare 1 fr. 55c). The winding 
road ascends through the beautiful Weisstannen-Thal to (8M.) 'Weisatannen 
r330O'; Alpenhof, E. 11/2-2, B. 1, D. 21/2-3, pens. 4i/ 2 -5 fr., plain; Gemsle, 
ft. I1/2, B. i, pens, frum 31/2 fr. ; Frohsinn, well spuken of), a jammer- 
•esort surrounded by woods. Thence (with C. Tschirgi as guide; 15 fr.), 



56 I.R.15. — Map,p.32. WINTERTHUR. 

by (Inter- Lavtina (4325') and Valtiisch (5940"), in 4 hrs., to the Heidel Pass 
(7865'), between the Seezberg and the Beidelspitz (79800, where we have a 
fine view of the huge Sardona Glacier, the Trinserhorn, and the Ringel- 
spitz. Descent into the Calf eisen- Thai via the Malanser Alp and Stock- 
boden, to the Tamina bridge near St. Martin (4430') 2 hrs., and to Fold's 
(p. 76) l 3 /4 hr. more. — From Weisstannen to Elm by the Foo Pass, see 
p. 87 ; to Matt by the Rieseten Pass, see p. 86. 

At (64 M.) Sargans (1590'; Rail. Restaurant; Hotel Thoma, at 
the station, R. l 1 /2-272> B. 1 fr. ; Rebstock; Krone, Lowe, both plain) 
we reach the Rhine Valley and the Rorschach and Ooire line (R. 18 ; 
to Coire 15 M.). The little town, 3/ 4 M. to the N.W., lies pic- 
turesquely at the foot of the Oonzen, and is commanded by an 
old castle of the former Counts of Toggenburg. 

The *Gonzen (6015'), easily ascended from Sargans in 3'/2 hrs. via the 
N.E. side (guide 8 fr.), commands an exceedingly picturesque view of the 
Weisstannen -Thai, the Seez-Thal, the Walensee, and the Rhine Valley 
from Landquart to the Lake of Constance. 

Railway via Ragatz to (79 M.) Coire, see pp. 70, 71. 

15. From Ziirich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen 

(Lindau) . 

Railway to Romanshorn (52 M.) in 2-4 hrs. (8fr. 65, 6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 35 c). 
Steamboat thence to Friedrichshafen in 1 hr. (1 J( 20 or 80 pf.) ; to Lin- 
dau in I1/2 hr. (2 Jl 25 or 1 M 50 pf.). 

The train crosses the Sihl, ascends in a wide curve, crosses 
the Limmat, and passes under the Kdferberg by a tunnel 1020 yds. 
long. — 3M. Oerlikon (1443' ; Sonne; Railway Hotel, R. Vk-1% 
B. 1 fr.), junction of the line Eglisau-Schaffhausen (p. 37). Electric 
line to Zurich, see p. 39. To Wettingen, see p. 24. 

The line crosses the Glatt. At (5y 2 M.) Wallisellen (Linde) the 
Rapperswil line diverges to the right (see p. 51). Fine view of 
the Glarus Alps. 71/2 M. Dietlikon; 10i/ 2 M. Effretikon (branch- 
line to Wetzikon, p. 51); 13 M. Kemptthal. Near Winterthur the 
Toss is crossed. On a hill to the left, the ruins of Hoch-Wulflingen. 

17 M. Winterthur (1447'; Hot. Terminus, at the station, R. 2-3, 
B. 1, D. incl. wine 2'/.> fr. ; *Goldner Lowe, R. 2i/ 2 -3, B. 1 1/4, D - 3 . 
pens. 7-8 fr. ; *Krone, R. 2-4, D. 2i/ 2 , pens, from 7 fr. ; *Adler, 
R. 172-2, B. 1, D. 17 2 -3, pens. 5-8 fr.; ^Railway, Rheinfels, and 
Walhalla Restaurants; Heinrich Langsdorf, TJ. S. Cons. Agent), on 
the Eulaeh, is an industrial and wealthy town (22,320 inhab.) and 
an important railway-junction. Handsome Stadthaus designed by 
Semper. The School (with statues of Zwingli, Gessner, Pestalozzi, 
and Sulzer) contains the town-library and a few Roman antiquities 
found near Ober- Winterthur (p. 36). In the Kunsthalle are some 
good paintings. The Panorama of the Rigi near the Polytechnicum 
is worth seeing. 

Fkom Wintebthur to Waldshot, 32 M., railway in 2 hrs. The 
line traverses the TSssthal. Stat. TSss, Willflingen, Pfungen-Neftenbach, 
Embrach - Rorbas. The train leaves the Toss and passes through a 
tunnel (1980 yds.). 10"/j M. Biilach (p. 37); 12"/a M. Glatlfeldcn; 13'/t M. 



FRAUENFELD. Map, p. 32. — I. R. 15. 57 

Eglisau (to Schaffhausen, see p. 37). — We now follow the left bank of 
the Rhine and cross the Glatt. Stat. Zweidlen; 19 M. Weiach-Kaiserstuhl, 
an old town with a massive tower; on "the right bank, Schloss Rbteln, and 
farther on, the ruins of Weiss- Wasserstelz. Stat. Riimikon, Reckingen, 
Zurzach, and (30'/2 M.) Coblenz, where the Rhine is crossed to (32 M.) 
Waldshul (p. 27). Via, Laufenburg to Stein- Sacking en, see p. 22. 

From Winterthue to Rdti, 29 1 /: M., in 2-3 hrs., by the TbsslJial-Bahn. — 
2 M. Griize; 3 M. Seen. Near (5 M.I Sennhof (25 min. to the S.W. of which 
is the old chateau of Kyburg, 2070', commanding a fine view) we enter the 
pretty Tossthal. Stations: Kollbrunn, Rikon, ZeH,(10M .) Turbentlial (Bar), Wyla 
(with a picturesquely situated church), Saland, and (16 M.) Bauma (Tanne), 
all thriving industrial places. About 2'A M. to the E. of Zell, on the slope 
of the Schauenberg, is the frequented Gyrenbad (2428'; pens, from 4'/ 2 fr-)> 
with an alkaline spring (see p. 58). Then Steg, Fischenthal , Gibswil-Ried. 
From the last, situated on the watershed, the Bachlel (p. 51) may be 
ascended in 1 hr. Then through the picturesque valley of the Jona to 
(25 M.) Wald (2037'; "Krone, R. 2, B. 1, D. 2'/ 2 fr. ; Rossli), an industrial 
place (6800 inhab.) at the S.E. foot of the Bachtel (p. 51). Passing the 
waterfall of Hohe Lauf, we join the Zurich and Rapperswil line at (29'/2 M.) 
Ruti (p. 51). 

From Winterthur to Schaffhausen, see R. 12 b ; to St. Gallen and Ror- 
schach, see R. 16; to Constance, see R. 11. 

Our line traverses the green and fertile Thurgau. 18 M. Ober- 
winterthur (p. 36); 20'/2 M. Wiesendangen ; 24*/ 2 M. Islikon. 

27 M. Frauenfeld (1335'; pop. 7735; *Falke; *H6tel Bahn- 
hof; Krone, R. 1-2, B. 1, D. i l l^-1 fr.), on the Murg, with large 
cotton -factories, is the capital of the Thurgau. The handsome 
Schloss, on an ivy-clad rock, is said to have been built by a Count of 
Kyburg in the 11th century. 

From Feauenfeld to Wil, 11 M., steam-tramway in l-l 1 /* hr. (fares 
1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 30 c). Stations : Murkarl, Mazingen, Jakobsthal, Wangi, Rosen- 
thal, Miinchwilen, and Wil (p. 5S). 

29y 2 M. Felben. Near (33 M. ) Mullheim the train crosses the 
Thur. 35 M. Marstetten; 37V 2 M. Weinfelden (1415'; Krone; 
Traube, R. l f /2-2, B. 1, D. 2, S. I1/2 &•)• To the left, Schloss 
Weinfelden (1850'; view), on the vine -clad Ottenberg. — 40 M. 
Biirglen. — 42 M. Sulgen(_15Si'; Helvetia, R. l-2fr. ; Schweizerhof). 

From Sulgen to Gossad, 14^2 M., railway in 67 min. (1 fr. 65, 1 fr. 15 c). 
We traverse the pretty valley of the Thur. Stations: Kradolf, Sitterdorf. 
6 M. Bischofzell (1653'; Hechl; Hirsch; Linde; Lowe; Thurbad, pens. 
3'/ 2 -5 fr.), a small town (pop. 2630) at the confluence of the Thur and 
Sitter. Then Hauplwil, Arnegg, and Gossau (p. 58). 

43 M. Erlen (Hot. Bahnhof); 47 V2 M - Amriswil (*Krone). 

52 M. Eomanshorn(1322'; *H6tel Bodan, with garden, R. 2-3, 
B. 1, D. 3, pens. 6-7 fr.; *Falke, R. li/. r 2, B. 1, D. incl. wine 2i/ 2 , 
pens. 4 1 /2~5 1 /2 fr. ; Hecht; Jdger; *Rail. Restaurant), a small town 
with 4564 inhab. on a promontory of the Lake of Constance. Thence 
to Friedrichshafen or Lindau, see p. 33. 

16. From Zurich to St. Gallon, Rorschach, and 
Lindau. 

Railway to St. Gallen (52>/2M.) in 2-3 hrs. (8 fr. 80, 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 40 c); 
to Rorschach (62 M.) in 22/ 3 -4V* hrs. (10 fr- 35, 7 fr. 45, 5 fr. 30 c). — Steam- 
boat from Rorschach to Lindau in l'/« hr. (1.4! 65 or 1 M 10 pf.). 



58 I. R. 16. — Maps, pp. :}•->, 62. WIL. From Zurich 

From Zurich to (17 M.) Winterthur, see p.6G. The Curlirsten 
gradually appear to the S. , and the Appenzell Mts. to the S.E. — 
20V2 M. Raterschen; 24 M. Elgg (2012'; Ochs ; Lowe). To the S. 
(4 M.) is the Schauenberg (2930'; Hue view), on the S.W. slope of 
which lies the Oyrenbad (see p. 57). — 25'^ M> Aadorf (Linde ; 
Lowe); 29'/., M. Eschlikon. — 31 M. Sirnach. 

To the Hornli, 3 hrs., interesting. A mad ascends the valley of the 
Murg via Dusmang and Fisdnngtn 2>(i 7 '; ".Sonne, Stem), with its old 
abbey, to the (6'/-; 51.) cross at Allenwinden. (3125'), whence a good path 
leads to the (V\ hr.) top of the "Hornli (3725'; Restaurant), a famous point 
cf view. The descent may be made to Bauma (p. 57). 

33 M. Wil (1930' ; *H6tel Bahnhof, It. l l /- 2 -1 l h, pens, from 5 fr. ; 
Hot. Schdnth,al,v/e\\ spoken of ), a pi' turesqueold town (4975 inhab.). 

A fine view i* obtained from (t/2 hr.) the Ho/berg ; and a more extensive 
one from the "Nclltn (4590'; Inn). \'/ 2 hr. to the X.E (omi. via Ro.sriiti 
and Wiip/itnau, 80 c.) The descent may be made 10 'l'/ihr.) Ulzw I (see 
below) or to Wemfrldeii or Biirglen. <n the Romanshorn railway (p. 57). 

Branch-line to Ebnat, see p. ~i2; steam tramway t,j Frauenfetd, see p 67. 

The train crosses the Thur by an iron bridge , near the old 
castle of Schwarzenbach. 39 '/2 M. Utzwil , the station for Nieder- 
Utzwil on the left, and for Ober-L'tzwil on the right. (Near the 
former, li/ 4 M. from the station, is the hydropathic of Buchenthal.) 
— 42 1 /-, M. Flawil (2020'; *R6ssli; *Post, pens. 5 fr.), a manu- 
facturing village (4863 inhab.). The Glatt is crossed. — 45^2 M. 
(?ossa« (Hot. Bahnhof; branch-line to Sulgen, see p. 57). — 48'/ 2 M. 
Winkeln (Kreuz; Lowe). 

From Winkeln to Appenzell, 16 51., in l'/2-2 hrs., by the narrow-gauge 
Appenzell Railway. The line passes the Heinriclisbad ( Curhaus, with chaly- 
beate spring and park, R. 11/2-3 fr., board 3 fr. 80 c). — 3 Al. Herisao (2550'; 
13,491 inhab. ; 'Lowe, R. 2'/2, B. 1, D. 2', 2, pens, from 4',. 2 fr.; "Slorc/i, R l>/ 2 -2, 
B. 1, D. 2'/2, pens- 5-6 fr), a thriving 'vilbge' with extensive muslin- 
factories and a clock-tower attributed to the 7th century. A fine view is 
obtained from the (1 M.) Rosenberg (2880'; inn) About 41/2 M. to the S.W. 
is the beautifully situated health-resort of Hcl.wellbrunn (31£0 / ; lens. Har- 
monie 3 ] /2 fr. ; Rossli). Am ther good view may be had from the Sitz (3565'), 
IV2 M. far'her on. -5 11. Wilen. — 5'/2 M. Waldstatt (2700'; ' H6M- Hension 
Birsch, R. I'/v-'^fe, B. 1, D. 2 1 /*, S- i 3 /*, pens 4 6, for nervous invalids 
6-8 fr. ; "Hdtel Pension Santisblicic, with garden, R. l 1 /2-2 I /a, D. 2'/2-3, pens, 
from 5 fr.), a health-resort with a chalybeate spring. — Then through the 
Urnasch Valley, by ZiirchersrnUhle, to (9'/i M.) Urnasch (27c5'; "Krone, R. lt/ai 
B. 1, D. I1/2, pens. 5 fr. ; Bahnhof). About >/3 M. above Urnasch is the 
primitive spa of Rosenhugel (2ay2'J. — Beyond Urnasch the train passes 
the (12 M.) Jacobsbad (to the E.), with its mineral .-pring (good quarters), 
and goes on to (13 M.) Gonten (2970'; 'Lome; Krone; Bar) and (14 51.) Qonttn- 
bad (2925'), a well-managed establishment, with a chalybeate spring (pens. 
6-6 fr.). It then crosses the deep valley of the Kaubach to (16 M.) Appen- 
zell (p. 65). — Ascent of the Sentis from Urnasch, see p. 67. Over the 
KraUern Fast to Neu-St-Johann, see p. 72. 

We cross the deep valley of the Sitter by an iron bridge, 207 yds. 
long, 174' high. A little lower down is the Kratzernbriicke, with 
its two stone arches, built in 1810. — 50 M. Bruggen. 

52V2 M. St. Gallen. — Hotels. *Hecht, Hecht-Platz, R. 2'A.-4, D. 
incl. wine 3'/2 fr. ; °Walhalla, opposite the station, R. lV2-3'/2, B. l'/i, 
D. 3'/2 fr. ; "Linue, Leonhard-Str., with cafe-restaurant, 11. 2'/j-5, B. 1V«, 
D. incl. wine 3>/2 fr. ; "Hiksch, in the market-place , R. 2-2'/2, 1>. 3 fr- ; 



to Lindau. ST. GALLEN. Map, pp. 34, 62. — I. B. 16. 59 

*Schiff, Multergasse, R. IV2-2V2, B. 1, D. incl. wine 2'/2, pens. 51/2-^/2 fr. ; 
Bahnhof, Zollhaus Str., near the Post Office; Kinkelin, R. li/ 2 -2 D- incl. 
wine 2 fr.; Ochs, moderate. — Cafes. Linde; Pavilion; Tri.chli; flbrvli; 
Rail. Restaurant. — Baths at Toller's (St. Magnihalden 11), and SHfert's 
(R irschacher-Str. 35); in summer, open-air baths at Dreilinden (p 6 ). — 
Cabs: 1/4 hi-., 1-2 persons 80 c., 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 20, '/ 2 hr - 1 f r- 20 and 1 fr. 80, 
3/4 hr. 1 fr. 60 and 2 fr. 40 c, 1 hr. 2 fr. and 3 f r., luggage 20 <■. , double fares 
at night. — Tramways to Bruggen, to Heiligkreuz (Hecht-Platz), and to 
Kronthal, the last starting from the railway - station (fare from 1U c). — 
U.S. Consul -General, James T. Dubois, Esq. — Official Inquiry Office, 
Schiitzengasse 2 (week-days, 9-12 and 2-5). 

St. Gallen (2208'), one of the highest of the larger towns of 
Europe, capital of the canton, and an episcopal see, is one of the 
chief industrial towns in Switzerland. Embroidered cotton goods 
are its staple product. Pop. 33,087. 

From the station we go to the left through the Post-Strasse or 
the Bahnhof-Strasse to the Market Place, the centre of the crowd- 
ed Old Town. The busy Marktgasse then leads S. to the Prot. Church 
of dt. Lawrence, rebuilt in the Gothic style in 1849-54, with a 
lofty tower. Adjacent is the N. entrance to the Klostebhof ('Stifts- 
einfang'), containing the Benedictine Abbey, founded in the 7th 
cent, by St. Gallus, an Irish monk, rebuilt in the 18th cent, and 
suppressed in 1805, one of the most famous seats of learning in Eu- 
rope from the 8th to the 10th century. The buildings now accom- 
modate the cantonal offices, the bishop's residence, and the cel- 
ebrated Abbey Library. The last (open on Mon., Wed., and Sat. 9-12 
and 2-4, for strangers at other times also) contains 30, 000 vols. (1558 
incunabula) and many valuable MSS. (a psalter of Notker Labeo 
of the 10th cent, and a Nibelungenlied of the 13th cent.); of those 
mentioned in a catalogue of the year 823 about 400 still exist. — 
The Abbey Church or Cathedral, rebuilt in 1755-65 in the rococo 
style, contains finely carved choir-stalls and a beautiful iron choir- 
screen (sacristan in the inner court). — In the Gallus-Str., near 
the abbey-church, are the Municipal Offices, containing an Ethno- 
logical Museum (open on Wed., 1-3, and Sun., 10-12 & 1-3). 

Behind the abbey flows the Steinach. — To the E., beyond the moat 
skirting this part of the old town, is the large Cantonal School House, 
containing the Town Library {^Bibliotheca Vadiana' ; open Tues., 
Thurs., and Sat., 2-4; 60,000 vols., and 500 valuable MSS., chiefly 
of the Reformation period). — Near it, in the Museum-Str., by the 
Grosse Briihl, is the Museum. On the groundfloor are the Natural 
History Collections (open Sun. 10-12 and 1-3, Wed. and Frid. 
1-4); on the first floor the Picture Gallery of the Kunstverein (open 
Sun. 10-12 & 1-3, Wed. 1-4; works by Roller, Diday, Makart, 
A. Feuerbach, Ritz, Schirmer, and others), and the collections of 
the Historical Society (open Sun., 10-12, and Wed., 1-4). Behind 
the museum is the Public Park, prettily laid out. 

In the Borsen-Platz, at the W. end of the frequented Multer- 
gasse (embroidery market on Wed. and Sat.), in front of the hand- 
some Swiss Bank, is the *Broder Fountain, by A. Bosch, erected in 



60 I.B.16.— Mnp3,pp.34.62. RORSCHACH. From Ziirich 

1898 to celebrate the completion of the aqueduct from the Lake of Con- 
stance. — The Industrial Museum, with a school of design and a col- 
lection of embroidery, is in the Vadian-Strasse ("open Sun. 10-12; 
on other days , except Mon., 9-12 and 2-5). Some embroidering 
machines may be seen at work in the basement. — From the S. end of 
the town a cable-tramway (3 min.; fare 15, down 10 c.) ascends 
through the gorge of the Steinach to the suburb of Miihleck (2440' ; 
restaurant). On the other sde of the Steinach, */2 M. to the E., are 
the open-air baths of Dreilinden (2540'), much frequented in summer. 
Excoksions. The 'Freudenberg (2910'; Restaurant), U/2 M. to the E. 
of the town and 3 ,U M. from Miihleck (see above; carriage for 1-2 pors. 
7 fr., 3-4 pers. 12 fr.), commands a charming view of the Lake of Constance 
as far as Lindau; in the foreground lie St. Gallen and the surrounding 
country, dotted with houses, to the S. the Sentis chain, the Glarnisch, 
Todi, etc. — The " Vbgelinsegg (41/2 M.; carr. 6 or 10 fr. ; p. 64) and the 
* Frblichsegg (4M.; p. 63) also afford fine views. — The nunnery of Notkersegg 
(2580') and the Kurzegg Inn (2735'), both on the road to the Vogelinsegg, com- 
mand fine views of the Lake of Constance. — To the Rosenberg (2470 ; car- 
riage 2 fr., 3 fr.), with the Kurzenburg, a deaf-and-dumb institution, and 
numerous villas ; the route runs via Rotmonten, on the saddle, to the (1 hr.) 
inn of SS. Peter and Paul (2580'), with a large deer-park. — From the 
Broder Fountain we proceed by the upper Graben and the Berneck Str., 
or via Miihleck (see above), to the (20 min.) Palkenburg (2580' ; Restaurant), 
which commands the best view of the town. We then cross the wooded 
Berneck to the Vogelherd, with a charming view and a monument to the 
poet Scheffel, to (V4 hr.) Nest (2540'; 'Restaurant), and to the (10 min.) 
Solitude (2690' ; views). Then back by the Teufen road (2 M.). — Kronbiihl 
(2035'; inn; carriage 3 fr., 5 fr.), 3 M. to the N. on the Arbon road, affords 
a view of the Lake of Constance. — The 'Curhaus auf der Waid (2065'; 
Dr. Dock) and the 'Sanatorium Obere Waid (2165'; pens. 71/2-15 fr.) are two 
health-resorts, 3 M. to the N.E., with splendid views (carriage in 1/2 hr., 
4 fr., 6 fr.). — Bruggen and the Sitterbrucke (p. 58j may be reached by 
tramway in 25 min. or by rail in 8 minutes. — Martinstobel and Mbtteli- 
schloss, see p. 61. — Tramway to Gais, see p. 68. 

From St. Gallen the line descends through a long cutting to 
(531/2 M.) St.Fiden (2126'; Hot. National), and enters the wild 
■valley of the Steinach. Embankments and cuttings are traversed in 
rapid succession. Nearly the whole Lake of Constance is frequently 
visible, with Friedrichshafen on its N. bank. — Turning to the 
right, we cross the Ooldach beyond (56'/.2 M.) Mbrschwil (1778'; 
*Pens. Gallusberg, with garden and fine view, R. 2-4, pens. 5-7 fr.). 

62 M. Rorschach. — Lake Railway Station ("Restaurant, see below), 
at the pier, the chief passengers' station; Town Station, 3 /« M. to the E., 
where the lines from St. Gallen and Romanshorn join that from Coire. 
Some of the trains do not stop at the Lake Railway St.ition. 

Hotels. "Anker, R.'^/j-o, B. 11/4, D. 3, pens. 9-12 fr. ; °Hirsch, R. 2-21/j, 
B. l'/4 fr. ; Badhof; Hotel Bodan; Hot. Stierlin; Schiff, R. 1V2-2, 
B. 1, D. 2, pens. 6 fr. ; Hotel Bahnhof, Post, R. 2, D. 2V2 fr., these two 
near the Lake Station ; Schafle, with garden, moderate; Rossle, R. l-l'/4, 
pens. 3V2 fr. ; Zdr Ilge; Gruner Kaum , R. H/2-2, B. 1, D. 2-2 l /2, pens. 
5-7 fr., well spoken of; Ochs, with brewery. — "Rail. Restaurant, with* 
balcony and view of the lake. Beer at Spierig's, behind the station, and at 
the Falke (with rooms to let). — Baths at Natter's, on the lake; Lake Batht 
1/4 M. to the W. (36 c). 

Rorschach (1310'; pop. 9100), a busy town on the Lake of Con- 
stance, chiefly important for its corn-trade, is also a summer-resort. 



to Lindau. LINDAU. Map,p.34. — I.B.16. 61 

Excursions. Above Rorschach rises the old abbey of Mariaberg, with 
handsome cloisters, now a training-school. The view from the Rorschaeher 
Berg, the green orchard-like hill behind the town, embraces the whole lake, 
with the Vorarlberg Mts. and the Rheetikon chain. Its summit, the 'Ross- 
biihel (2925'; Inn, good wine), maybe reached in l'/i hr. from Rorschach 
(boy to show the way desirable). The whole hillside is intersected by roads, 
which afford a great many pleasant walks. Good inns at (V2 hr.) the Sulz- 
berg and (V2 hr.) the Hohenrain. — The St. Anna Schloss (1835'), for- 
merly the property of the Abbots of St. Gallen, has been partly restored 
(restaurant); fine view from the upper rooms. The road, which is ateep 
towards the end, takes about s /i nr - from the station. The view from the 
Jcigerhaus, Vs hr. farther up, is still more extensive (inn, good wine). 

To the Mariin&tobel and MbtUlischloss and back, 3 hours. By the St. 
Gallen railway to SI. Fiden, see p. 60. Below the station we take the road 
to Neudorf (brewery on the left), descend the highroad, and diverge to the 
right by the Heiden road into the Martinstobel, the gorge of the Ooldach 
(I860'), spanned by an iron bridge 10O' high. Here, at the beginning of the 
10th cent., the monk Notker composed his 'Media vita in morte sumus\ 
upon seeing a man accidentally killed. Beyond the bridge we ascend the 
road to the left, passing the debris of a landslip which took place in 1845, 
to Untereggen (2080'; Schafle), and thence descend the Goldach road as 
far as a road leading through a grassy dale past a large pond to the right 
to the Uottelischloss. This was formerly the seat of the Barons of Sulz- 
berg, of whom it was purchased by the wealthy Mbtteli family of St. Gallen, 
and after various vicissitudes it has now fallen into disrepair. *View from 
the platform on the top (gratuity), one of the finest near the lake. Pleasant 
walk back to Rorschach through the Witholz O/2 hr.). — To Tiibach, amid 
fruit-trees, and the (1 hr.) Ruheberg (1460'; restaurant), or to the (l'/i hr.) 
Olinzburg near Steinach (restaurant), both with beautiful views of the 
lake (from Miirschwil in 40-45 min., see p. 60). — By the 'Obere Weg', 
with fine views, to (1 hr.) Wylen ("Inn), near the Duke of Parma's chateau 
of Wartegg, with its beautiful park. — By Staad (p. 68) to (l'/4 hr.) Schloss 
Weinburg, a summer-seat of the Prince of Hohenzollern (visitors admitted 
to the fine park); splendid view from the Steinerne Tisch, above the park 
(return via Thai and Rheineck, p. 68). — To Walzenhausen and the Meldegg, 
see p. 69. 

At Horn (on the lake, l'/2 M. to the N.W.; railway, see p. 35) is a 
large "Hotel & Bath Bouse (pension 4V2-6V2 fr.)- Near Horn, to the left, is 
the chateau of the Landgrave of Hessen-Philippsthal. 

Railway to Coire, see p. 68; to Heiden, see p. 63; to Constance, see 
p. 35. 

To Lindau by steamer (1 hr. ; fares 1 Jf 66, 1 Jt 10 pf. ; D. 
2V2 ^)> comp. p. 32. To the S.E. is Bregenz, at the foot of the 
Pfander; in the background, the Ehaetikon chain; to the S., the 
Appenzell Mts. and the Sentis. 

Lindau. — "Baykischer Hof, near the lake and the station, R. 3-572, 
B. I1/4, D. 3-3V2, pens. 7-9 JH; "Hotel Reutemann, R. 2, D. 2V2, pens, from 
5 Jt; Lindaukk Hof, R. 1Vs-2Vs J(, B. 80 pf.; -Krone, R. 2-2»/2, D. 2'/ 2 , 
pens. i-PI-iJt; Helvetia, R. H/i-i 1 /* Jt, all on the lake; Sonne, in the 
Reichsplatz, well spoken of; Gartchen aof der Mauer, a pension on the 
mainland. — Restaurants: Seegarlen, next door to the Bayrischer Hof (also 
rooms); Schiitzengarten, a restaurant on the old bastion, near the Roman 
tower, with view; Joh. Fret/ (wine; tastefully fitted up); Rupflin (wine); 
Rail. Restaurant. — Lake Baths on the N.W. side of the town, in the inner 
arm of the lake, and at the Military Baths on the other side. 

Lindau (pop. 5600), the terminus of the Bavarian S.W. Rail- 
way (express to Munich in 5hrs.J, once an imperial town and 
fortress (1276-1803) , and in the middle ages a busy commercial 
place, lies on an island in the Lake of Constance, connected with 



62 1. Route 17. CANTON OF APPENZELL. 

the mainland by a railway-embankment and by a wooden bridge, 
356 yds. long. On the quay is a monnment to King Max II. (d. 1864), 
in bronze, designed by Halbig (1856). At the end of the S. pier, 
on a granite pedestal 33' high, is placed an imposing lion in marble, 
20' in height, also by Halbig ; opposite, on the N. pier, is a Light- 
house , 108' in height. The harbour is adjoined to the S. by the 
Alte Scham, which commands a view of the Alps from the Scesaplana 
to the Sentis (mountain-indicator). In the Reichsplatz are the Town 
Hall, erected in 1422-36 and restored in 1885-87, with painted 
facades and a collection of antiquities (open 11-12, Sun. 2-5), and 
the handsome lieichsbrunnen, with a bronze figure of 'Lindauia' and 
other allegorical figures, erected in 1884. Near the Land-Thor, at 
the end of the wooden bridge, are an old Roman Tower and a War 
Monument for 1870-71. 

Excursions. Pleasant walk on the N. bank of the lake towards the left 
(cross the railway-embankment and turn to the left), passing the villas of 
Ndher, Lotzbeck (pretty park), Qiebelbach, Lingg ("Frescoes by Naue), and 
others, to the (2>/» M.) Schachenbad (Pens. Freihof) and the ( 3 A M.) Linden- 
hof (or Villa Gruber) , with its beautiful grounds and hot-houses (adm. on 
Frid. gratis; at other times 1 jtt, tickets at the Schachenbad; closed on 
Sun.). About '/a M. farther on is the chateau of Alwind. — Beautiful view 
from the (>/2 hr.) vine-clad 'Hoierberg (1496'), which is reached by a path 
skirting the railway and passing the village of Hoiren , or to the left via 
Enzitweiler ('"Schmids Restaurant) and Schachen (Zum Schlossle). The road 
from the Landthor leads via Aeschach (Schlatter). Two inns and a belvedere 
on the top. — To Bregenz, see p. 464. — For the Lake of Constance Railway 
to Friedrichshafen (15 M., in P/* hr.), via. Wasserburg , Sonnenhorn, and 
Langenargen, see Baedeker's Southern Germany. 

17. The Canton of Appenzell. 

The Canton of Appenzell cannot vie in grandeur with many other parts 
of Switzerland , but it includes within a small space most of the charac- 
teristics of the country. It boasts of one of Switzerland's largest lakes , of 
an almost southern vegetation, of great industrial prosperity, of the richest 
pastures, and even of lofty snow-mountains. The finest points are Heiden, 
St. Anthony's Chapel, Wildkirchli, Ebenalp, the Hohe Kasten, and the Sentis. 

This canton, which is entirely surrounded by that of St. Gallen, was 
divided after the religious wars of 1597 into two half-cantons , Ausser- 
Rhoden and Inner-Rhoden, and to this day party-feeling on religious ques- 
tions is very strong. Inner-Rhoden , which consists of pasture-land and 
is 63 sq. M. in area, is almost exclusively Roman Catholic, and down to 
1848 permitted no Protestants to settle within its limits ; even Roman Catho- 
lics who were not natives of the canton were strictly excluded. This restric- 
tion was nominally rescinded by an article of the Federal constitution in 
1848, but little change has practically taken place. Population 12.900, of 
whom about 800 only are Protestants. The inhabitants generally occupy 
scattered cottages and huts ; they are, according to Merian (1650), 'a rough, 
hardy, homely, and pious folk' ; their costume is picturesque and primitive, 
and cattle-breeding and cheese-making are their chief pursuits. — Aussku- 
Rhoden (90 sq. M., 55,300 inhab., 5500 Rom. Oath.) belongs to the Reformed 
Church ; one- fourth of its population is engaged in the cotton and silk manufac- 
ture, chiefly for firms at St. Gallen. Almost every house has its loom, the 
products of which often exhibit extraordinary taste and skill, and were 
objects ol admiration at the London and Paris Industrial Exhibitions. — 
Comp. 'Appenzell : Pure Democracy and Pastoral Life in Inner-Rhoden', 
by Irving B. Uichman (1895). 



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HEIDEN. I. Route 17. 63 

Railway from Winkeln to Appenzell i'/2-2 brs. ; from St. Oallen to dais 
l'/4 hr. ; from Rorschach to Heiden 55 minutes. — Diligence from Rheineck 
to Heiden thrice daily in 1 hr. 40 min.; from Berneck to Heiden twice 
daily in 2'/2 hrs. ; from Heiden via Troj/era and Speicher to Teufen twice 
daily in 2 3 /4 hrs.; from Altstdtten to (?ais daily in 2 hrs.; from Gais to 
Appemell four times daily in 35 min. ; from St. Oallen via Speicher to Trogen 
four times daily in l'/4 hr. — Carriage from St. Gallen to Trogen 6 fr. 
(34 pers. 10 fr.), to Appenzell 9 or 16, to Weissbad 10 or 16'/* fr.; half-fare 
more for the return. 

The Railway from Rorschach to Heiden, 4i/ 3 M., is on the 
rack-and-pinion system (maximum gradient 1:11). The train starts 
from the harbour station (p. 60), stops at the outer station, where 
the toothed rail begins, and then ascends through orchards, afford- 
ing charming glimpses of the lake. On the left, below, is the chateau 
of Wartegg, on the right, above, Wartensee. Near (2'/ 2 M.) stat. 
Wienachten (2025') are large quarries of fossiliferous sandstone. 
We then skirt the deep Wienachter Told, obtaining to the left a 
beautiful view of the rich valley, with the mountains of the Bre- 
genzer Wald beyond, and the mouth of the Rhine below. Beyond 
(3 M.) stat. Schwendi (2217') we cross the gorge by a lofty viaduct 
and ascend over pastures and through wood. 

4^3 M. Heiden. — 'Freihof, R. 2>/2-6, B. l>/«, D- 4, S. 2V„ pens. 
7-12 fr. ; "Schweizerhof (same proprietor), pens. 6'/2-9 fr. ; "Krone, R. 2-3V->, 
B. I 1 /*, D. 3, S. 2, pens. 0-8 fr. ; Hotel-Pension Sonnenhcgel, at the upper 
end of the village, with baths and garden, R. 2-3, B. IV4, D- 3, S. 13/ 4 , pens. 
6-8 fr. ; "Hotel-Pension Linde, pens. 5-7 fr.; Hotel-Pension Gletscber- 
hugel, 5-8 fr.; Hotel-Pension Necbad, 5-6 fr. ; Lowe, 4-5 fr. ; "Pension 
Weiss zdr Frohen Aussioht, pens. 6-7 fr. ; "Pens. Nord, 4-5'/2 fr. ; Pens. 
Alpenbliuk, Pens. Blusienthal, 4-5 fr. ; Schafle, Ochsen, iSi/ 2 -4 fr. 
Lodgings easily obtained. Baths in the Quellenhof. — Visitors^ Tax 30 c. 
per day. — English Church Service in summer. 

Heiden (2655'); a thriving village with 3751 inhab., lies amidst 
sunny meadows, and is a favourite health-resort. At the upper end 
is a tasteful Curhalle, with shady grounds (concerts thrice daily). 
Adjacent is the Oletscherhilgel, an artificial hill composed of erratic 
blocks and planted with 700 alpine plants. The grounds of the 
Freihof (see above) afford fine views of the Lake of Constance. 

Walks. To the "Bellevue (2865' ; "Pension <fc Restaurant Waldruhe, pens. 
4 fr.) a hill 1 M. to the S.E., on the right bank of the Qstaldenbach, with 
a beautiful view of Heiden and the Lake of Constance, and on to the Sentis- 
blick, about as far again; W. to the Hasenbiihl, Bemenriili, and 'Steinli, 
with a pavilion and charming view; S. to the Bischofsberg (see below). 
To the W., below the Grub road (see below), the Krdhenwald (pleasant 
grounds); N.W. ( 3 /4 hr.) the Rossbiihel, above Grub (2925'; see p. 61). 

A road affording picturesque views leads from Heiden to the N.E. via, 
(IV2M.) Wolfhalden (2350 ; Pens. Friedberg, pens. 4-5 fr.; Adler, pens. 4fr.; 
Pens. Blatter zum Lindenberg, pens. 2V2-3 fr.) to (4>/2 M.) Rheineck (p. 68; 
diligence twice daily in 3 /4 hr.) ; another attractive road leads to the W. 
via (I1/2 M.) Grub (2643'; Ochs; LSwe; Hirsch, pens. 3-4 fr.), a health resort, 
Eggersriet, and the Martinstobel (p. 61) to (7'/ 2 M.) St. Oallen (p. 58). 

The -Chapel of St. Anthony CSt. Antonibild' '; 3640'), l'/4 hr. to the 
S. of Heiden, affords a famous view of the Rhine Valley (preferable to 
that from the Kaien), Bregenz, Lindau, part of the Lake of Constance, and the 
Vorarlberg and Appenzell Mts. Adjacent are the Alpenhof and Rdssli Inns. 
One route to the chapel is by (»/i hr.) Oberegg (3900'; "Bar, pens. 4-4V» fr.); 
another shorter, leads by the orphan-houses and the Bischofsberg (3095' ; both 



64 I.B.17.— Map,p.G2. TROGEN. The Canton 

routes denoted by blue marks). From the chapel to Altstatten (p. 69) l'/s hr. 
to Landmark and the top of the Qabris (see below) 2 hrs. 

The Kaien, l'/« hr. to the S.W. of Heiden, is also frequently ascended 
(red way-marks; guide unnecessary). We follow the Trogen road for '/« M. 
and then diverge to the right beyond a small bridge (finger-post 'Steinli, 
Kaien') and ascend by a good, red-marked path to the (1-1 '/» hr.) Kaien. 
The view from the summit (highest point 3690', signal 3612') embraces a 
great part of the Lake of Constance and Canton Thurgau, the embouchures 
of the Rhine and the Bregenzer Ach, the Vorarlberg and Liechtenstein Mts., 
with the white chain of the Rhsetikon and the Scesaplana above them to the 
S.E. To the S. it affords a characteristic glimpse of the Appenzell district : the 
Kamor and Hohe Kasten, the five peaks of the Furgglen-First and Kanzel, the 
double-peaked Altmann, the snow-fields of the Sentis, and the Todi farther 
distant; in the foreground woods, meadows, and the thriving villages of 
Wald, Trogen, and Speicher; to the left above Trogen rises the Gabris 
(see below) ; to the right, near Speicher, the Vogelinsegg (see below) ; to the 
left, above Speicher, in the distance, the Pilatus and theRigi. — The Kaien 
is l'/s hr. from Speicher, and 2'/2 hrs. from St. Gallen. Trogen seems almost 
within a stone's-throw, though really 3 M. distant. The path descends to 
the right by the Otipf (3545'; inn) and Rehetobel (3140' ; "Hirsch), a village 
beyond which the road to Trogen is visible in the wooded ravine far below. 
Near the bridge, in the valley below, is a rustic tavern 'Am Goldbach'. 

The Gabris (see below) may be ascended from Heiden direct (avoiding 
Trogen) : to St. Anthony's Chapel (p. 63) l 1 /* hr. ; then by a new road 
along the arete, with a charming survey of the Rhine Valley and the Sentis, 
to the Landmark (3265'; inn , comp. p. 69), on the road from Altstatten 
to Trogen, and the summit of the Gabris, a beautiful walk of 2 hrs. About 
8 min. below the summit the St. Anthony route is joined by that from 
Trogen (finger-post 'Gais, Trogen, Speicher'). 

The road to Trogen (6'/2 M.) ascends the E. slope of the Kaien 
(see above) to the (2!/ 4 M.) Langenegg (3185'; inn); then up and 
down hill, past Rehetobel (see above; lying beyond the ravine of the 
Goldaoh on the right), and (2i/ 4 M.) Wald (3150'; Schdfli; Krone; 
Harmonie, pens. 3-4 fr.), to (2 M.) — 

Trogen (2975'; pop. 2498; * Krone; Schdfli; Hirsch; Rossli; 
Lowe) , a prosperous village, pleasantly situated and visited as a 
summer-resort. 

Road over the Landmark to (7 M.) Altstatten, see p. 69. — Fbom St. 
Gallen to Trogen (6 31.), diligence four times daily in l 3 /« hr., 1 fr. 20 c. ; 
one-horse carr. 6-8, two-horse 10-12 fr. The road leads past the nunnery 
of A'otkersegg and the inn of Kurzegg (p. 60), to the (4 M.) 'Vbgelinsegg 
(3165'; "Hdtel- Pension), which affords a fine view of the Lake of Constance, 
the populous and rich pasture-lands of Speicher and Trogen, and the 
Vorarlberg and Appenzell Mts. A point in front of the hotel commands 
a specially fine prospect of the Sentis. Descent to ( 3 /« M.) Speicher (3070" ; 
•Lowe ; Krone ; Schiitzen-Garten), and across the Bachtobel to (l'/«M.) Trogen. 
— From Trogen to (4'A M.) Teufen, diligence twice daily in 1 hr. Steam- 
tramway from St.Gallen to Gais via Teufen, see p. 68. 

From the church at Trogen a road leads via. (3'/2 M.) Biihler 
(p. 68) to (13/ 4 M.) Gais , but the path over the *Gabris (4100') 
is shorter and far more attractive. 

The traveller coming from the Kaien follows the Trogen and Biihler 
road to the (1/2 hr.) top of the hill (3487' ; view of the Sentis) ; a finger- 
post here indicates the path to the left to Gais over the Gabris. Those 
who come from Vogelisegg should not go on to Trogen, but quit the high- 
road beyond the Bachtobel (see above) by a flight of steps to the right. A 
small valley lies immediately on the right, and the path ascends gradually 
across meadows. After 3 /4 hr. (from Speicher) this path reaches the road 
from Trogen to Biihler a few hundred paces from the finger-post. At the 



of Appensell. WEISSBAD. Map, p. 62. -^1. B.17. 65 

latter we take the path to the left, at the next finger-post to the right; 
beyond the tavern we pass through three gates, and proceed straight on 
(not to the right), ascending for a few min. by a bad path; then again by 
a good path, which slowly ascends to the (40 min.) "Inn (4100'), whence a 
delightful prospect is enjoyed (l'/zhr. from Speicher). Hence to Gais a 
descent of l /s hour. Walkers in the reverse direction find finger-posts at 
doubtful points. Numerous benches. 

Gais (3075'; pop. 2850; *Krone, R. 2-3, pens. 5-7 fr.; *Ochs, 
R. 2, pens, from 5 fr. ; Falke, Adler, Hirsch, Rolhbach, plain ; Pensions 
Hohl- Walter, Preisig-Pfisier, Hebrig, 3-4 fr. ; Railway Restaurant), a 
trim-looking village, in the midst of green meadows, is the oldest of 
the Appenzell whey-resorts, having been in vogue since 1749. Fine 
view of the Sentis from the Curgarten, adjoining the 'Krone'. 

Steam-tramway to St. Gallen, see p. G8. — The Road fkom Gais to 
Altstatten (6 M. ; diligence daily in l'/4 hr., from Altstatten to Gais in 
l>/4 hr.) is level for the first l>/2 M., and then descends uninterruptedly 
from the point where it diverges from the old road and winds round the 
mountain. The old road, preferable for pedestrians, leads to the left via 
the (V« hr.) "Stoss (3130' ; Inn, in summer only), a chapel on the pass, with 
a celebrated view of the Rhine Valley , the Vorarlberg, and the Grisons. 
Here, on 17th June, 1405, 400 Appenzellers under Rudolf von Werdenberg 
signally defeated 3000 troops of the Archduke Frederick and the Abbot of 
St. Gallen. The shorter old road crosses the new immediately below the 
Stoss, and descends direct, partly through wood, to Altstatten (p. 69). 

A road traversing meadows leads from Gais to (3^ M.) Appen- 
zell, while a shorter but easily missed footpath to the Weissbad 
(l*/2 nr diverges to the left halfway to Appenzell and crosses the 
Guggerloch (3084'"). 

Appenzell (2560'; pop. 4569 ; *Hecht, *Lowe, *Hirsch, all moder- 
ate; Hoferbad, pens. B 1 ^-^ fr. ; Schiff; Krone), the capital of Canton 
Inner-Rhoden , on the Sitter , a large village, chiefly of old wooden 
houses, contains two monasteries, and was formerly a country-seat 
of the Abbots of St. Gallen, Appenzell being a corruption of l Abbatis 
Cella'. The Hospital, the Church, erected in 1826, and the Lan- 
des - Archiv , containing interesting charters , aTe worthy of note. 
Shady promenades on the Sitter. — Railway to Vrnasch and Win- 
keln, see p. 58. 

A road leads from Appenzell (also a path from the station ; omni- 
bus to and from the station, five times daily, 70 c. ; carr. 4, with 
pair 6 fr.) to the S.E., crossing the Sitter and passing the Hotel Stein- 
egg, to the (2 M.) Weissbad (2685'), a summer and health resort 
(*Curhaus, R. 2-5, B. li/ 4 , D. 3, S. 21/2, pens. 7-10 fr. ; Weiss- 
ladbrucke and Oemsle Inns; also river-baths) , pleasantly situated 
at the base of the Appenzell Mts., and a good centre for excursions. 

Guides: Buber, Jac. and Joh. Kotter, Joh. Baft. Rntch; to the Wild- 
kirchli 5, Ebenalp 5, Sentis 10, over the Sentis to Wildhaus 20, Altmann 
15, Hohe Kasten 6, over the latter into the Rhine Valley 10 fr. — Hobse 
to Wildkirchli, Ebenalp, Seealp, or Ruhsitz 12 fr. 

A favourite walk from the Weissbad is to the Wildktrchli, 13/ 4 hr. 
to the S. (guide, 5 fr., unnecessary). Following the road to Brulisau 
(p. 67) for 100 paces, we ascend to the right ; 8 min. a house, where 
the bridle-track diverges to the left ; the good footpath leads straight 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 19th Edition. 5 



66 I. R. 17.- Map, p. 62. SENTIS. The Canton 

on, crossing the bridle-path at (!/* hr.) a gate; we then cross the 
meadow to (40 min.) the depression between the Ebenalp (see below) 
and the wooded Bommen-Alp (to the left). We next ascend in 
windings through wood to the right, and in 10 min. reach a way- 
post showing the direct path to the Ebenalp (to the right; see 
below). The route to the Wildkirehli turns to the left and (10 min.) 
approaches the foot of the precipices which descend from the Eben- 
alp to the Seealp-Thal (see below). Near the (*/4 hr.) Zum /Escfter 
Inn (4790'; R. 172-2 fr. ; *View) we ascend to the right by a 
narrow but safe path, skirting perpendicular rocks, to the (2 min.) 
*WildkircMi (48450, once a hermitage, with a chapel of St. Michael, 
situated in a grotto (33' wide ; tavern). On the patron-saint's day 
(beginning of July) and on St. Michael's Day (29th Sept.) divine 
service is conducted here , and the grotto and the Ebenalp attract 
many visitors. View of the deep Seealp-Thal, and, to the left, of 
the Lake of Constance. 

A cavern, 150 paces long , closed by a door (opened by the land- 
lord, who provides a light, Y2 fr-)> leads from the grotto to the *Eben- 
alp ; the (25 min.) summit (5390' ; Inn) commands a superb view 
of the Sentis, Altmann, Lake of Constance, etc. — We may descend 
direct to the (25 min.) saddle to the N. of the Bommen-Alp (see 
above ; guide useful to the point where the path begins). 

Pleasant walk from the Weissbad via Schwendi and (50 min.) Wasserauen 
(see below), crossing the Schwendibach (4 min.) and ascending a pretty 
wooded ravine, to the ('/< hr.) Seealp-See (3735'; Inn, dear), picturesquely 
situated in a basin between the Gloggeren and Alten-Alp (p. 67). From 
the JSscher (see above) a steep path descends to the Seealp-See in 1 hr. 
From the Seealp-See to the Megglis-Alp (see below) 1 hr., path recently im- 
proved (wire-rope at giddy points). The path joins that from the Schrennen 
(see below), 20 min. from the Megglis-Alp. — To the Leuen Fall (3185'), 
l 1 /* hr., also interesting; the path ascends the Weissbach- Tha I (way-post 
beyond the Weissbad), the last part through beautiful wood. 

The snow-clad *Sentis (8215'), the highest mountain in the 
canton, is often ascended from the Weissbad (6 hrs. ; guide 10 fr., 
not indispensable for experts ; one-horse carr. to Wasserauen 4fr.). 
A road diverges to the right from the road to Briilisau beyond the 
(3 min.) bridge over the Schwendibach, and ascends on the right 
bank of the brook to (!/ 4 hr.) Schwendi (2790'; *Pension, plain; Inn 
Zur Felsenburg , on the left bank) , and via, the Escherstein to the 
(35 min.) Wasserauen Inn, where the road ends. The ascent now 
begins (Katzensteig), on the right side of a ravine with its rushing 
brook; 40 min. the Hutten-Alp (3940'; milk). The good though 
narrow path now skirts the Schrennen, the shelving pastures of the 
Qloggeren (below which are perpendicular rocks) , affording beau- 
tiful glimpses of the Seealp-See far below, the Sentis and Altmann, 
and the Wildkirehli to the Tight. Then (3/ 4 hr.) a refuge-hut, and 
( 3 / 4 hr.) the Megglis-Alp (4985'; inn), in a picturesque basin. The 
path now ascends rather steeply on the slope of the Kuhmaad, 
partly hewn in steps (the telegraph-poles, beginning 10 min. from 



ofAppemell. HOHE KASTEN. Map,p.62. — I. R. 17. 67 

the Megglis-Alp, may be followed). At the (13/ 4 hr.) Wagenlucke 
(6785') the inn on the Sentis becomes visible. Passing some snow 
on the left, the path ascends, becomes steeper, and mounts in rocky 
steps (wire-rope) to (iy 4 hr.) the Inn (8087'; bed 31/2-5 fr., mat- 
tress in the common room H/ 2 fr. ; food dear; often crowded, early 
arrival advisable). On the summit of the Sentis, to which a path 
protected by a railing mounts in 5 min. more, is a meteorological 
station (adm. 30 c). The **View (see Heim's excellent Panorama) 
extends over N.E. and E. Switzerland, the Lake of Constance, 
Swabia and Bavaria, the Tyrolese Mts., the Grisons, and the Alps 
of Glarus and Bern. — The N. peak, separated from the S. by the 
l Blaue Schnee' (not to be ascended without a guide; see below), is 
named the Oirespita (8040'). 

From the Sentis we may descend, at first over snow, and then by a 
path, which is very steep at first, over the Schafboden (5660') and the 
Flis-Alp (4930'), to (3V2-4 hrs. ; in the reverse direction 6 hrs.) Wildhaus or 
Unterwasser in the Toggenburg (p. 72; guide desirable). — The usual 
Route from the Weissbad to Wildhads (7V2-8 hrs.) leads by Brttlisau 
and through the Briiltobel to the Samblis-See (3965'), passes the Fahlen-See 
(4750'; chalets), and ascends to the Zwingli Pass (6630'), between the Alt- 
rnann (see below) on the right, and the Kraialpfirst (6990') on the left. We 
descend by the Krai-Alp (5933') and the Tesel-Alp (4575') to Wildhaus. This 
route, however, is rough, and theSentis route (not much longer) is preferable. 

Mountaineers may combine a visit to the Wildkirchli (p. 66) with the 
ascent of the Sentis (7-8 hrs.; guide necessary, 15 fr.) by leaving the valley 
of the Seealp-See to the left. The path leads high above the Seealp- 
See and at the base of the Zansler and Schafler, via the Alien-Alp and 
the Oehrli, to the Musc/ielenberg (numerous fossils) ; hence either to the 
left across the valley to the Wagenlucke (6785') by the path which ascends 
from the Megglis-Alp (p. 66), or (1 hr. shorter) across the Blaur Schnee 
(see above ; caution on account of the crevasses), past the base of the Gire- 
ipitz, and over the Flatten direct to the summit. — A path, constructed by 
the S. A. C, ascends to the summit on the W. side also (guide). It starts 
from the Gemeinen- Wesen Alp (4210' ; reached from Urnasch or Nesslau in 
2 hrs., see p. 72), and mounts a steep rocky slope in zigzags to the first 
mountain-terrace. The ascent is then more gradual, over rock and pasture, 
to the Fliesbordkamm and the (2'/2 hrs.) Club Hut on the Thierwies (6835'). 
We next traverse rocks and debris on the Graukopf (7255'), and ascend in 
zigzags to the arete between the Girespitz and the Sentis. Lastly we mount 
the Flatten by a flight of steps 140 yds. long, protected by a wire-railing, 
and reach the (IV2 hr.) summit. 

The Altmann (8000'; 7 hrs., with guide; toilsome) is ascended from 
the Weissbad via. the Fahlen- Alp and Zwingli Pass (see above); descent through 
the LSchlibetter to the Megglis-Alp (p. 66). 

Fbom Weissbad to the Rhine Valley. The direct route by the 
Hohe Kasten (5'/2 hrs.; horse to the Ruhsitz 12 fr.) leads to the S.E. 
through (1/2 hr.) Briilisau (3030'; Krone; Rossle) ; passing the church, we 
follow the path, beyond the second house to the right, which ascends in 
the direction of the telegraph-wire to (1 hr.) the Inn 'Ruhsitz'' (4495'), at 
the S.W. base of the Kamor (5215'). From the inn a steep but good path 
ascends to (1V4 hr.) the summit of the *Hohe Kasten (5900'; "Inn), which 
slopes precipitously on the E. towards the Rhine Valley. Splendid view of 
the Sentis group, with its three spurs on the N.E., which is nowhere seen 
to such advantage ; in the other direction we see the Rhine Valley, stretch- 
ing as far as the Lake of Constance , and the Alps of the Vorarlberg and 
Grisons. We may now descend by a new path to (3 hrs. ) stat. Sennwald- 
Saletz (p. 70). It diverges from the Weissbad path to the left, just below 
the saddle between the Kamor and Hohe Kasten, skirts the W. and S. 

5* 



68 /. R. 18. — Map, p. 34. RHE1NECK. 

slopes of the latter, and descends in zigzags (no possibility of mistake ; 
several finger-posts lower down). Traversing wood for the last hour, we 
at length reach the village of Sennaald and the station. 

Railway from Appenzell to Winkeln, via Vrndsch and Herisau, 
see p. 58. — It is preferable to drive by Gais and Teufen to St. Gallen 
(to Gais, 3!/2 M., diligence five times daily in 1 hr. ; thence to St. 
Gallen, 8V2 M., steam-tramway in d.1/4 hr."). To (3 1 /? M.) Qais, see 
p. 65. Thence the Steam Teamtat (rack-and-pinion at placeB; 
pretty route) descends by Zweibrucken, where the road to Appenzell 
diverges to the left (p. 65), and along the Rothbach to (l 3 /4 M.) the 
prettily situated village of Biihler (2735' ; *Rossli), and beyond 
the Rose and Linde inns (pens. 4-5 fr.) ascends to (i'/j M.) Teufen 
(2750'; pop. 4588; *Hechi), an industrial village, picturesquely situ- 
ated, with a fine view of the Sentis chain. [About ^2 hr. farther 
up is the Bad Sonder (3020'), a frequented hydropathic] It then 
skirts the W. slope of the Teuferegg, through meadows and wood, 
passing the stations of Sternen, Niederteufen, Lustmuhle, and Riet- 
hdusle, and descends in sharp curves to (872 M.) St. Gallen (p. 58). 

The Footpath fkom Teufen to St. Gallen (17z hr.) leaves the high- 
road near the 'Hecht' inn, and ascends to ('/« hr.) the Scliit/le't Egg (3185'; 
inn); it then descends to ( 3 /< h?-) St. Qeorgen, V/? M. from St. Gallen. — 
To the W. of the SchaQe's Egg is (10 min.) the 'Frbhlichsegg (329C ; 'Inn), 
with an admirable view: Teufen in the foreground, the Appenzell Mts., 
beginning with the Fahnern, to the left, the Kamor, the Hone Kasten 
•about the middle of the chain, the green Ebenalp below the snow ; more 
to the right, the Altmann and the Sentis with its snow-fields ; in the 
distance, the Glarnisch and Speer; to the W., the railway and road to 
Wil; to the N., part of the Lake of Constance. To St. Gallen, 1 hr. 

18. From Rorschach to Coire. 

57 M. Railway in 2V«-4 hrs. (9 fr. 75, 6 fr. 85, 4fr. 90c. ; see Introd. X, 
as to circular- tickets, etc.). 

Rorschach, see p. 60. The train skirts the lake at first. To the right, 
the chateau of Wartegg (p. 61). 2'/2 M. Staad (Anker; Schiff; good 
swimming and other baths), a picturesque place with quarries of 
white sandstone. Heiden (p. 63) is seen on the hill to the right. 
FartheT on is the Weinburg (p. 61), at the foot of the vine-clad 
Buchberg. The line traverses a fertile delta, formed by the de- 
posits of the Rhine. — 5 M. Rheineck (1320'; *Post; Ochs; Rossli), 
a small town at the foot of vineyards, with 2090 inhabitants. 

Omnibus in 12 min. from the station to (1V« M.) Thai (1344'; Ochl), 
an industrial place with 3547 inhab., picturesquely situated at the foot of 
the Buchberg (to the Steinerne Tisch, 25 min., see p. 61). 

From Rheineck to Walzenhausen (3 M.) cable-railway in 14 min. 
(60 c, descent 40 c). The station is at the N. end of the town, above 
the Rhine bridge, to the right. The line runs through a tunnel 330 yds. 
long, and then ascends rapidly (17-26:100) on the open hillside, crossing 
the Ruderbuch several times by means of lofty iron bridges. Lastly an- 
other tunnel, at the upper end of which is the station of Walzenhausen 
(2225'; 'mt.-Penn Rhemburg, with view-terrace, R. 2-4, B. 1, D. 3, 6. 2, 
pens. 6-R1/2 fr - •• Hirtch, pen«. 4V2-5 fr.; ffit. Meyer, pens. 5-6 fr. ; H6t. Bahnhof, 
pens. 4-5 fr. ; LDtce, pens. 3 l /i-b'/2 fr), a large village and health-resort, finely 



ALTSTATTEN. Map,p.62.—I.R.18. 69 

situated. The Rosenberg (2560'; 1/4 hr.), the '■ Gebhardshohe (2925 1 ; inn in 
summer ; '/< hr.), the Fromsenriiti (3/ 4 hr.), and Egge (1 hr.), may be visited 
if time permits. — A good road runs from the church along the hill- 
side, affording charming views of the Rhine valley and traversing woods, 
to the (1 M.) Convent of Grimmenstein (2185'; *L6we). About Va M - farther 
on, near the Inn 'Zur Linde', the road to (3 M.) Au (see below) diverges to 
the left. About l /z M. farther on, where the road makes its last ascent 
and bends to the right before descending to Berneck (see below), a footpath, 
skirting the ridge to the left, leads to (10 min.) the "Meldegg (2115*5 inn 
in summer), a rocky promontory at the angle of the Rhine valley, command- 
ing a splendid view of the valley, the Vorarlberg and Appenzell Alps, and 
the Lake of Constance. We may descend to (V2 hr.) Au or ( 3 /4 hr.) St. Mar- 
grethen (see below). 

Diligence from Rheineck to Wolfhalden and Heiden, thrice daily in 
13/ 4 hr. (fare 90 c.); see p. 63. 

Walzenhausen (p. 68) is seen on the hill to the right. At 
(8M.) St. Margrethen (1330'; Linde; Oehs; Sonne) the line toBre- 
genz (p. 464) diverges to the left. To the Meldegg, 1 hr., see above. 

Engineers will be interested in the works begun by the Swiss and 
Austrian governments in 1893 for the Regulation of the Rhine, designed 
to cut off the windings of the river, control its vagaries, and conduct it 
straight into the Lake of Constance. Of the two chief cuttings, one, the 
Fussach Cutting, about 3 M. long, was finished in 1900. It begins at the 
village of Brugg, on the Bruggerhom, H/4 M. to the E. of St. Margrethen, 
receives the waters of the Dornbirner Ach, and enters the lake at Fussach. 
The Diepoldsau Cutting, about 4 M. long, destined to cut off the large 
peninsula of Diepoldsau, between Kriesseren and Widnau, 4 M. to the N. of 
St. Margrethen, will lake about seven years more to complete. The total 
cost to the Swiss and Austrian governments is estimated at 16>/2 million 
francs. 

The Rhine Valley, formerly called the Upper Rheingau, was, 
like Ticino and Thurgau, governed down to 1798 by bailiffs. Part 
of its floor is marshy and exposed to inundation. Maize abounds. 
The train skirts hills covered with vineyards and orchards, and from 
Heldsberg to Monstein runs between the river and abrupt rocks. 

91/2 M. Au (1338' ; *Schiff, E. 1-2, pens, fr/r^/a fr -> S ood wine i 
Rossli; Rail. Restaurant), prettily situated at the foot of the Meldegg 
(see above). To the left, the snow-clad Scesaplana; farther off, 
the Drei Sch western (p. 70); to the right, the Hohe Kasten with 
its inn (p. 67). 

Road to (4 M.) Walzenhausen, see p. 68. To the "Meldegg ( 8 /4-l hr.), 
see above. — To the W., in a fertile, vine-clad basin, lies (2 M.) Berneck 
(1380'; Krone; Drei Eidgenossen ; Pens. Tigelberg), a pleasant village fi254 in- 
hab.), with good baths. Electric tramway to Altstatten, see below. Diligence 
from Berneck via Schaclun and Oberegg to (6 M.) Heiden (p. 63) twice daily 
in 21/2 hrs. (fare 1 fr. 26 c). 

12 M. Herbrugg (Post); 14 M. Rebstein-Marbach. 

I61/2 M. Altstatten (1475'; pop. 8719 ; *Drei Konige, R. 2-21/2, 
B. 1, D. 2^2, pens. 5-6 fr.; Splugen, at the station; Freihof), a quaint 
little town. Through a gorge on the right peeps the Sentis, adjoining 
the Fahnern. To the right is the Convent of the Good Shepherd, 
with an orphanage and a large new domed church. 

Roads lead hence via the landmark (3265'; inn) to (9 M.) Trogen, and 
via the Stois (3130) to (9 M.) Gail (p. 65) ; and a pleasant path in 3 hrs. 
by the Chapel of St. Anthony to Heiden (p. 63). One-horse carriage to 
Gais 10, two-horse 15, to Appenzell 12 and 18, to Weissbad 15 and 25 fr. 



70 I.R.18.— Maps,pp.62,38r,. MAIENFELD. 

Electric Railway from Altfltatten to Berneck, 12-13 times daily in 
l-l'/z hr. Stations: Altstatten Rail. Station, Altstatten Town, Leuchringen, 
Marbach, Rebstein, Balgach, Beerbrugg, and Berneck (p. 69). 

197'2 M. Oberriet (1387'; Sonne). On a wooded hill to the right 
is the square tower of the castle of Blatten. 

221/2 M. Riithi (Zum Bahnhof). — 27 M. Saletz-Se:mwald (re- 
staurant by the station). 

Aseent of the Bohe Kaslen (5900'; 4 1 /* hrs., without guide), see p. 67. 
— To the Weissbad (6 hrs.), a pleasant walk., by Sax and the Sorer 
Lucke (5430'), passing the Fdhlen and Sdmbtis lakes (comp. p. 67). 

29 M. Haag-Qams (Zum Bahnhof). Above (31 M.) Bucha {Rail. 
Restaurant; Zum Arlberg, Ii. 2, B. 1, D. 2 1 jo fr. ; Zum Bahnhof, 
both at the station) rises the well-preserved chateau of Werdenberg. 

Railway to Feldkirch, see p. 464; custom-house examination at Bucha 
for travellers to or from Austria. — On a height, on the opposite bank 
of the Rhine, lies Vaduz (1525'; Engel; "Lowe), with the white chateau 
of Liechtenstein on a lofty rock, the capital of the principality of Liech- 
tenstein, at the foot of the Drei Schwestern (6965'), which may be ascended 
from the Alp Gaflei (4920'; "Hotel), 3 hrs. above Vaduz, by an excellent 
and highly interesting rock-path in 2 hrs., with guide. 

Beyond (34^2 M.) Sevelen (*Traube, plain) rises the ruined 
chateau of Wartau (2185'). On a hill to the left, beyond the Rhine, 
near Balzers, is the ruin of Quttenberg, where the ascent of the 
Luziensteig begins (see below). Beyond (39 M.) Triibbach (1585' ; 
Lowe) the road and the railway are hewn through the rocks of the 
Schollberg. By the roadside is a large quarry of black marble. 

The *Alvier (7753'), ascended from Buchs, Sevelen, or Triibbach in 
5-5 J /2 hrs., see p. 55. From Trubbach by Atzmoos, Malans, and past the ruin 
of Wartau, to ( 3 /i hr.) Oberschan and (4'/2 hrs.) the top ; descent 3 hrs. — 
The Gonzen (6015'), from Trubbach in 4 l /s hrs., with guide, is easy and in- 
teresting (comp. p. 56). 

42 M. Sargans (1590'; Railway Restaurant; Rebstock; Krone, 
Lowe, plain), junction of theWeesen(Glarus) and Zurich line (p. 56). 
Carriages sometimes changed. The scenery becomes grander. To 
the N.W., the long serrated chain of the Curflrsten (p. 53) ; to the E., 
the Flascherberg and the grey pyramid of the Falknis (p. 71). To 
the right, near Vilters, is the Lower Sar Fall, fine after rain. 

45 M. Ragatz, p. 73. To the right, the ruin of Freudenberg 
(p. 73); then, to the left, the pension and ruin of Wartenstein 
(p. 75). Below the influx of the Tamina we cross the Rhine by a 
wooden bridge, 167 yds. in length. 

46 M. Maienfeld( 1725'; pop. 1241; *Ochs; *H6t.-Pens. Bahnhof, 
at the station, R. IV2-2V2, pens. 5i/ 2 -6 fr. ; Hirsch; Rbssli, good 
wine) is an old and thriving little town. The tower (fine view) is said 
to have been erected in the 4th cent, by the Roman Emperor C011- 
stantius. 

At Bovul (2185 1 ), iy< M. to the N.E., is the Pension Anndliof, com- 
manding a good view. 

The St. Luziensteig (2230' ; inn, good wine), a fortified defile between 
the Fldscherberg (3730') and the Falknis, through which the road to Vadu» 
and Feldkirch leads, is 2 M. from Maienfeld and is frequently visited from 
Ili:;atz. Fine view from the highest block-house (now destroyed), on the 



LICHTENSTEIG. Map,p.62. — I.R. 19. 71 

top of the Flascherberg, l l / t hr. farther to theW., and also on the return. — 
The "Falknis (8420'), ascended from the St. Luziensteig through the Oleek- 
tdbel and by the Sarina-Alp or Fldscher-Alp (6 hrs. ; guide 15 fr.), is fatiguing 
but interesting ; better from Maienfeld (guides, Fortunat and Joh. Peter En- 
derlin, Jacob Just) by the path made by Fort. Enderlin, via, Bargiin and 
the Fleischer Furkli. 

On the vine-clad slopes to the left lie the villages of Jenins 
(above it, the ruins of Wyneck and Aspermoni) and Malans (p. 387). 
The train crosses the Landquart, near its influx into the Rhine. 
49i/ 2 M. Landquart (1730'; Rail. Restaurant ; *H6t. Landquart, 
R. 2V2-5, D. 3V2, pens. 8-12 fr.), junction of the Rhaetian Railway 
to Davos (p. 387). To the E., just beyond the station, the Sulzfiuh 
(p. 388) peeps through the Klus. 

521/2 M. Zizers (1854'; Krone; Zum Bahnhof), a small and an- 
cient town. To the left are Molinara, a summer-seat of the Bishop 
of Coire, and the village of Trimmis. To the right, the peaks of the 
Calanda (8536'); at its base are the ruins of Liechtenstein, Orotten- 
stein, and Haldenstein. At the foot of the last lies the village of 
the same name, with a dilapidated chateau belonging to Count Salis 
(interesting wooden ceiling ; old tile-stoves). 

57 M. Coire, see p. 382. 

Besides the direct railway a narrow-gauge line, constructed in 1896 by 
the Rh^tian Railway Co. to connect the lines from Davos to Landquart 
(p. 387) and from Coire to Thusis (p. 398), runs from Landquart to Coire 
(8 3 /4 M., in 25-32 min.). Stations : Igis, Zizers, Untervalz, Trimmis, Baldmstein, 
and Coire. 

19. From Wil through the Toggenburg to Buchs 
in the Rhine Valley. 

Railway to Ebnat, 15>/2 M., in 1 hr. (2nd cl. 1 fr. 95, 3rd cl. 1 fr. 40 c). 
— From Ebnat to Buchs. 23 M., diligence twice daily in 5'/< nrs - (5 fr. 70 c. ; 
coupe 7 fr. 60 c). Carr. with one horse from Wildhaus to Gams 8 , to 
Buchs 9, to Ebnat 14 fr. 

Wil, on the Winterthur and St. Gallen line, see p. 58. The train 
traverses the Toggenburg, the busy and populous valley of the Thur. 

The ancient county of Toggenburg was purchased in 1469 by the Ab- 
bots of St. Gallen. The people having afterwards embraced Protestantism, 
they were persecuted by the abbots. This gave rise early in the 18th cent, 
to the Toggenburg War, in which the Roman Catholic cantons espoused 
the cause of St. Gallen, while the Protestants took the part of the Toggen- 
burgers. In 1712 the Catholics were defeated at Villmergen in the Aargau ; 
and a general peace secured to the Toggenburgers full enjoyment of their 
ancient liberties. 

4y 2 M. Bazenhaid; opposite is Jonswil, with a new church. Op- 
posite (6 M.) Lutisburg we cross the Ouggerloch by a viaduct 170 yds. 
long and 190' high. 8 M. Biitschwil; 91/2 M. Dietfurt. 

10i/ 2 M. Lichtensteig (pop. 1529; *Krone), a pleasant little 
town on a rocky height, with a modern Gothic church. The health- 
resort of Krinau (2625'; pens. 2»/ 2 -3V2 fr lies 3 M - t0 the w - 0n 
a hill to the E. (l'/4 hr.) is the ruin of Neu-Toggenburg (3565'), 
a fine point of view. 



72 J.R.19. — Map,p.62. WILDHAUS. 

12'/2 M. Wattwil (2027' ; pop. 4965 ; Rossli, R. 17 2 -2y 2 , pens. 
4-6 fr. ; Toggenburg), a charming village, with a new church. On 
a hill to the right is the nunnery of St. Maria der Engeln, and above 
it the ruin of Yberg. — Diligence to Vtznach (p. 52) four times daily. 

15'/2 M. Ebnat-Kappel is the last station. The village of Ebnat 
(2106'; *Krone, R. l»/ 2 -2V 2 , B. 1, D. 2% pens. 4-5 fr. ; *Adler; 
Rosenbiihl, a restaurant with view) is a thriving place (2664 inhab.) j 
1 M. to the N.W. is Kappel (Traube; Stern). 

The "Bpeer (6415') is ascended through the Steinthal in 5 hrs. (rather 
trying near the top; guide 7 fr., advisable, camp. p. 53) ; from Neu-St-Johann 
or Nesslau isee below), by the Alp im Laad and the Berren-Alp in 5 hrs. 
(guide); or from Stein in 4 hrs. (guide). 

The Road ascends on the right bank of the Thur via Krummenau 
(2385'), where the 'Sprung', a natural rock-bridge, crosses the 
stream to Neu-St- Johann (Schafle), with an old abbey, and(47 2 M.) 
Nesslau (2470'; *Traube, R. 17 4 -17 2 , pens. 472-61/2**. ; Stern; 
Krone), with a pretty church. 

To TJknasch oveb the Keatzeen Pass (4^2 hrs.), interesting. A road 
from Neu-St-Johann ascends the Lauter-Thal , by Ennetbiihl and the Riet- 
bad (2800'; R. l'/ 2 , B. 1, D. 2, pens. 5-6 fr.), to the (l'/s hr.) Alp Bernhaldm 
(3402'). Then a path through the KraUernwald to the KrStzem Pass (39361, 
and across the pastures of Kratzem to the (2 hrs.) Rossfall-Alp (inn), 
whence a road leads to (1 hr.) Urnasch (p. 58). — Ascent of the Sentis 
(p. 66) from Nesslau, 6 hrs. : from (l>/s hr.) Bernhalden (see above) in */« hr. 
to the Alp Gemeinen- Wesen (4210*); thence to the Thierwiei Club Hut and 
(4 hrs.) the top (p. 67). 

The scenery becomes more interesting. The road leads past a fine 
fall of the Weisse Thur to (2i/ 4 M.) Stein (2755'; Ochs) and (27 4 M.) 
Starkenbach (Drei Eidgenossen. , pens. 372-^f r -)> a straggling vil- 
lage. To the right is the ruin of Starkenstein. (Over the Amdener 
Berg to Weesen, see p. 53; guide to the pass advisable.) Passing 
(17 2 M.) Alt-St-Johann (2930'; Rossli, pens. 5 fr.) and ( 3 / 4 M.) 
Vnterwasser (Stern; Traube), prettily situated at the sources of the 
Thur, we ascend to — 

30y 2 M. Wildhaus (3600'; *Hirsch, E. 2-3, B. 1, pens. 5fr. ; 
Sonne; Tell). A little before the village, on the right, is the wooden 
house, blackened with age, in which Zwingli (p. 78) was born in 
1484. Beyond the village we obtain a survey of the seven Curflrsten 
(p. 53"); still better from the (3/ 4 hr.) Sommerigkopf (4317^. 

Ascent of the Sentis from Wildhaus or Alt-St-Johann (via the Flit- 
Alp and the Schafboden in 6 hrs., with guide ; toilsome), see p. 67. — To Weiti- 
bad by the Kraialp, the Fahlensee, and Sarnbtis-See (7 hrs.), see p. 67. — To 
Walenitadt over the Kaserrnck, 6 hrs., see p. 55. 

The road descends past the ruin of Wildenburg through the 
wooded Simmi-Tobel, finally describing a long bend (short-cut for 
walkers to the right), to (33 1 /2 M.) the station of Zollhaus and 
(3572 M.) Qams (1575'; *K.reuz, unpretending, carriages for hire), 
in the Rhine Valley. We then follow the road to the Tight, via Orabs 
and Werdenberg, to — 

38i/. 2 M. Bucks (station 7 2 M. farther on, p. 70). 



73 



20. Ragatz and its Environs. 



Hotels (most of them open during the season only). "Quellenhof (PI. a), 
R. from 5, B. ly 2 , dej. 4, D. 5-6, pens. 10-18 fr.; 4 Hof Eagatz (PI. b), 
R. from 4, B. ii/2, D. 5, pens. 9-16 fr. ; "Hotel Tamina (PI. c) and "Schwei- 
zeehof (PI. d), R. from 4, B. l'/2, D. 4, S. 3, pens, from 7 or 8 fr. ; *Hot.- 
Pens. Lattmann (PI. i), R. 2-4, B. 1, D. 21/2, S. I1/2, pens. 7-9 fr. (open in 
winter also); *Keone (PI. e), with dependance (Villa Louisa), R. 2 l /2-4, 
B. I1/4, D. 3, S. 2'/2, pens. 7-12 fr. (open in winter also) 1 'Bayebischee 
Hof (Scholl; PI. f), R. 2-6, B. H/4. D. 31/2, S. 21/2, pens. 7-10 fr.; Feeieck 
(PI. g) ; "Hot. National (PI. 1), R. 2-2V 2 , B. 1, D. 21/2, S. 2, pens. 51/2-6V2 fr. ; 
Ochse, R. IV2-2, pens. 5-6 fr., very fair. — Near the station (1 M. from 
the town): "Rosengaeten, R. 2V2, B. l'/4, D. 3, pens, from 7 fr. (open in 
winter also). — Pensions. Post, pens. 6 fr. ; c Home Villa ; Feiedthal 
(PI. h), pens. 5-6 fr. ; Hotel-Pension Waetenstein (p. 75). 

Restaurants. Curtaal, see below (Munich and Pilsen beer); Munich 
beer also at the Schweizerhof, National, Krone, and ScholVt (see above); 
Ifussbaum, Churer-Str. ; Lowe and Kreuz, with gardens. Felsenkeller, '/i M. 
from the town, on the way to the Freudenberg (see below). 

Post Office (PI. 6), near the Dorfbad. — Telegraph Office (PI. 7), 
opposite the Krone. 

Omnibus from the station to the village of Ragatz 75 c, trunk 25 c. — 
Carriage, with one horse, from Ragatz to Bad Pfafers and back, with halt of 
2 hrs., for 1-2 pers. 7, 3-4 pers. 10 fr., and fee; to Wartenstein and Dorf 
Pfafers 8 or 14, Vattis 18 or 25, Maienfeld 6 or 10, St. Luziensteig 10 or 15 fr. 

Baths. Properties of the water, see p. 74. The Miihlbad (PI. 4), Neu- 
bad (PI. 2), and Helendbad (PI. 3) are near the Curhaus ; the Dorfbad 
(PI. 5), with a Trinkhalle, in the Eisenbahn-Strasse, between the Schweizer- 
hof and the Tamina Hotel. Charge 2-2'/2 fr. per hr. ; warm towels 20 c. 
extra. — Swimming Bath , on the right bank of the Tamina (84° Fahr. ; 
2 fr. in the morning, 1 fr. in the afternoon ; swimming-drawers 20 c, full 
suit 50 c.) ; open for ladies 8-10, 11-1, and 4-6. 

In the Cur-Garten is the Zander Institute (Dr. F. Bally), for 'Swedish 
gymnastics', the electrotherapic treatment, and massage. Adjacent is a 
new Hydropathic. 

Visitors' Tax 3 fr. per week for each person. — Music in the morning, 
afternoon, and evening, alternately in the Cur-Garten (or Cursaal), the 
Badhalle at the Dorfbad, or the Hof Ragatz. 

English Church Service in summer. 

Ragatz (1710'; pop. 1861), prettily situated on the boisterous 
Tamina, which falls into the Rhine lower down (see p. 70), is a 
famous watering-place and one of the most frequented resorts in 
Switzerland (50,000 visitors annually"). The chief rallying-points 
are the Cursaal, with the Cur-Oarten and the Baths (see above), 
which receive the mineral water from Pfafers by a conduit, 2!/ 2 M. 
long. Music, see above. The open colonnade on the E. side of the 
Cursaal affords a fine view of the Falknis. 

In the S.E. corner of the Cemetery, close to the Bahnhof-Str. , 
is the monument of the philosopher Schelling (d. at Ragatz in 1854), 
with a bust. — By the last houses (1 M.) on the Sargans road a 
path ascends to the left through vineyards to (1/2 M.) the ruined 
castle of Freudenberg (915'), with a fine view of the Rhine Valley. 
We return by a road on the hillside, between houses and gardens. 

*Bad Pfafers or Pfdvers (1 hr.) is one of the most curious spots 
in Switzerland. It lies in the narrow gorge of the Tamina, a glacier- 



74 I.R.20. — Map,p.386. PFAFERS. 



Bagats 



towent , on the brink of -which the good but narrow road (walking 
recommended) gradually ascends through wood, flanked by sombre 
schist cliffs, 500 to 800' high. Near the (2 M.) Schwattenfatt Re- 
staurant a footpath leads to" the left across the Tamina and then 
ascends to Valuryut and (V2 nr Wartenstein (see p. 75). Farther 
on C/2 M.), just before the road passes through a rocky gateway, 
is another path (shady and picturesque, but steep), leading to 
(3/ 4 hr.) the village of Pfafers (p. 75). Both these paths are slippery 
in wet weather. 



SSI 




The Pfafers Bathing Establishment (2245') , in a shady spot at 
the mouth of the ravine in which the springs rise, enjoys the most 
bracing air and is admirably adapted for patients in search of rest 
and quiet (pens. 6-9 fr.)- The charge for private baths is 1 fr., for 
public baihs 50 c. Temppra'ure of the water 97° Fahr. Electrical 
and massage treatment (Dr. Kiindig). Band thrice a week in the 
afternoon and evening. The season lasts from June 1st to Sept. 15th. 

The clear and copious hot springs (99-102°), free from taste 
and smell, are slightly impregnated with carbonate of lime, chloride 
of sodium, and magnesia, resembling those of Gastein and Wild- 



and Environs. PFAFERS. Map,p.386. — I.B.20. 75 

bad. They rise about l / t M. above the bath-house in the narrow 
and gloomy *Tamina Gorge (30-50' wide). Tickets for the gorge and 
the springs (1 fr. ; feeto attendant !/ 2 ft. ; umbrellas advisable, on hire 
for 20 c.) are sold in the chief corridor of the bath-house, to the 
right. The pathway to the springs, resting on the rock or on masonry, 
'30-40' above the torrent, passes under the 'Beschluss' (see below). 
In 6 min. we reach a small terrace, on the E. side of which the at- 
tendant opens a door. Laying aside hat and overcoat, we enter a 
narrow shaft, filled with vapour, and after 40 paces expanding to a 
oavern, where the spring rises in a cavity, 10' deep, protected by a 
parapet (about 750 gallons per minute). — From the Ragatz station 
to the springs and back, 3 hrs. on foot, or 2 hrs. by carriage (p. 73). 
Fbom the Baths to the Village of Pfafebs (i'/4 hr.). The path 
ascends to the right in windings ; after >/4 hr., by a finger-post, where the 
path to the right leads to Valens (see below; 10 min. from the Bad is the 
'Calanda-Scb.au'). we descend to the left and (5 min.) cross the Tamina 
by a natural bridge, called the ' Beschluss' , 230' above the springs. We 
now ascend a steep path on the right bank, cut in steps, and slippery in 
wet weather, to a (20 min.) meadow; then either ascend (Bnger-post) to 
(10 min.) an auberge on the road leading to the right to Vattis (p. 76) 
and to the left to the village of Pfafers; or (preferable) ascend by the 
footpath to the left, through meadows and wood, to the O/4 hr.) road, 
H/4 M. from the village of Pfafers. 

A Cable Tramway, starting every ^hr., ascends from behind 
the Hotel Hof Ragatz in 10 min. (gradient 27 : 100; 2nd cl. 1 fr., 
3rd cl. 60 c; return-ticket 1 fr. 30, 80 c.) to the *H6tel-Pension 
Wartenstein (2463'; li. 2»/ 2 -4V 2 , B. I1/4, D. 3l/ 2 , S. 3, board 5 fr.), 
a health-resort with a garden, affording a splendid view of the Rhine 
Valley as far as the Ourfirsten to the N.W. (p. 53). Below are the 
ruin of Wartenstein and the Chapel of St. Oeorge. — The Village 
of Pfafers (2696'; Adler, R. 2-3, B. 1, D. 1% pens. from. 5 fr. ; 
Lowe, R. ii/p-l 1 /}, pens. 3y 2 -5 fr. ; Taube, well spoken of) lies 3/ 4 M. 
farther up, on the top of the hill (road from Ragatz, 2!/% M.). The 
once powerful Benedictine Abbey of Pfafers was converted into a 
lunatic asylum (St. Pirminsberg ) in 1838. The Tabor (2766'), a 
hill 1/4 hr. to the N. of the abbey, also affords a fine view. 

Excursions fbom Bagatz. The nearfr excursions are all provided 
with sign-posts. — The Guachenkopf (2463'), a wooded hill to the W. of 
Sagatz, may be reached in 40 min., either by a path on the S. side, or by 
one on the W. side (diverging to the left from the road to Freudenberg, 
before the 'Felsenkeller'). Fine view of Ragatz, the Rhine Valley, the 
Appenzell and Pratigau Mts., the Graue Horner, and the Calanda. — To 
Maienfeld (IV2M.; by the new Rhine bridge), see p. 70; St. Luziensteig 
(direct path by the railway-bridge 3 M., road via Maienfeld 4Vs M.), see 
p. 70. — The Pratigau {Seems, Valzeina, etc.). see R. 90. 

Tizalun (4860'; 3 hrs.; guide, advisable for novices, 6 fr), a splendid 
point of view. From (25 min.) Dorf Pfafers partly through wood via Molindris 
and FurggeU to the pastures of (1 hr.) St. Margretenberg (4130 1 ), then to the 
left, and lastly by steps in the rock to the (1 hr.) top. 

To Valens (3018' ; Zum Frohsinri) from Bad Pfafers, Vs hr. (to the right 
at the finger-post, mentioned above). On leaving the wood, the point of view 
called the Calanda-Schau affords a striking view of the Tamina Valley, with 
the Calanda in the background to the left, and the Monteluna and the 



76 /. R.20. — Maps,pp.386.40i>. VATTIS. 

Graue Horner to the right. Below the church a path crosses the deep 
Miihletobel to P/2 hr.) Vatdn (3045'), amid sunny pastures, whence a road 
leads through the Tamina valley to the (I1/2 M.) road to Vattis (see below). — 
Ascent of the 'Vasanenkopf (6675'), from Valens, easy (3ty2hrs. ; guide 8fr.). 
Across pastures to the Lata- Alp (6145'; club-hut) 3 hrs. ; thence to the right 
to the top '/s hr. (wide view ; still finer from the Schlbttlikopf, 7295', 1 hr. 
from the Lasa-Alp, guide 9 fr.). Rich flora. — "Monteluna (7955'), 4 hrs. 
from Valens by Vason and the Alp Vindelt (5410 1 ), also easy and interesting 
(guide 12 fr.). — The ascent of *Piz Sol or Pizol (9345'), the highest of the 
Graue Homer, is grand and interesting, but trying (7 hrs.; guide 17 fr.). 
From (3 hrs.) the Lata Alp (see above) we ascend to the (2 hrs.) Wildtee 
(7990% beyond which we clamber over rocks and snow to (2 hrs.) the 
summit. The magnificent view includes the Appenzell, Vorarlberg, and 
W. Tyrolese Alps, the Rhaetikon, the Grisons Alps with the Silvretta and 
Bernina groups, the Glarus, Uri, Unterwalden, and E. Bernese Alps, and 
the valley of the Rhine. We may descend via, the Zanay Alp to (3 hrs.) 
Valent (p. 75), or via the Alp Lavtina to (3'/2 hrs.) Weitttarmen (p. 55) and 
(2 hrs.) Melt. 

From Ragatz to Vattis, 10M., diligence twice daily in summer 
in 3 hrs. (fare 3 fr. 15 c. ; two-horse carr. there and back 25 fr.). 
The road leads from the Tillage of Pf afers on the E. side of the deep 
Tamina Valley, of which picturesque glimpses are obtained. After 
ltya M. the path to the Baths of Pfafer diverges to the right (p. 74); 
farther on the road passes the hamlets of Ragol (opposite Valens) 
and Vadura (opposite Vason, at the foot of the Monteluna, see above), 
and skirts the precipitous slopes of the Calanda. The valley expands 
beyond the narrow ravine of St. Peter, l 1 ^^- fr° m Vattis (3120'; 
*H6t.-Pens. Calanda, R. li/ 2 -2, B. 1, D. 27 2 - 3 V2- S. V/^h, P ens - 
4-6 fr.; *Curhaus Vattis ;* Tamina, plain, pens. 4 fr. ; Zur Lerche), 
a large village and summer-resort, beautifully situated at the foot 
of the imposing Calanda and near the mouth of the Calfeisen-Thal 
(p. 77). 

Walks may be taken to (20 min). Vidameida; to (1 hr.) the Gnapperkopf 
(36S0 1 ), an old silver mine with several ruined shafts, where interesting 
mineral specimens may be found; thence to the (lhr.) Alp Schrbter (ISCO") 
and the (1 hr.) Alp Salaz (5870'), with fine view. — The Vatlnerberg i5;95'; 
2 hrs. ; fatiguing) is better ascended from Valens via Vason (see above); 
thence to the Monteluna (see above), 2 hrs. — To the (4 hrs.) Drachenloch 
(7875'), on the Drachenberg or Draggaberg, also fatiguing (guide desirable); 
fine felspar and stalactites. — Ascents (guides, Jot. Sprecher, Darid 
Kohler ten. and jun.). Calanda (9210'), 7-8 hrs. (guide 15 fr.) ; path marked 
in blue ; rather tiring but very remunerative (comp. p. 384). — Sime I (1110'), 
via the Ramuz Alp. in 4 hrs.. easy (guide 8fr.); ^Elphkopf (8590"), via the 
Vattner jElpli in 5 hrs., also easy (guide 10 fr.); Zanayhom (9270'j, viS the 
Calvina Alp in 6 hrs. (guide 17 fr.) ; Sazmarlinhorn (9345') and Piz Sol (Pizol; 
9345'; see above), via the Tersol Alp, in 6-7 hrs. (guide 17 fr.), these three 
somewhat troublesome. The Pancirahiirner (10,040' and 10,190'; 7-8 hrs.; 
f;Qide 25 fr.) are best ascended from the S. by the Grostalp and the 
Lavoi-Thal (very attractive, with magnificent views). — The 'Eingelipiti 
or Piz Bargias (10,665' ; 8 hrs. ; guide 30 fr.) is troublesome, but offers no 
serious difficulties to experts under favourable conditions of the snow. 
The ascent is usually made from the N. by the Calfeiten-Thal and the 
(2»/2-3 hrs.) Alp Schrda-Wwtli (5675'; club-hut), and thence by the Gla"r 
Glacier or Riesegg to the (5-6 hrs.) summit. The ascent from the S.E., 
either by the Grotxalp, Lavoi-Thal, and Ttchepp, or by the Taminter Glacier, 
is easier. Magnificent panorama of Eastern Switzerland. — The Glaterhom 
(10,260'; guide 25 fr.) and the Trittelhorn or Piz da Sterlt (10,220'; guide 
25 fr.) are also ascended from the Schriia-Wieoli Alp, and are both difficult. 



NAFELS. Map,p.78. — I.R.21. 77 

Fsom Vattis to Reichenau ovee the Kdnkels Pass (3-3 l /2 hrs. ; guide 
not essential). The route, which is practicable for carriages to the top of the 
pass, crosses the Odrbs three times, and ascends, generally on the E. side of 
the valley. The chalets of the upper valley are collectively called Kunkels. 
On reaching the (2 hrs.) Kunkels or Foppa Pass (4433'), we turn abruptly 
to the left and enter the defile of La Foppa. (About 5 min. to the right 
of the path a superb view of the Rhine Valley may be obtained.) Then 
a steep and stony descent to Tamins and (IV2 hr.) Reichenau (p. 398). — From 
the top of the pass an attractive path leads to the N. to the (2 hrs.) 
Taminser-Aelpli (65G0 1 ), at the S. end of the Calanda, with a magnificent view. 

From Vattis to Flims ovek the Tkinser Fhrka, 9-10 hrs. (guide 
25 fr.), trying but remunerative. We ascend to the W. through the im- 
posing Calf eisen- Thai to (2 hrs.) St. Martin (4430'; hence by the Beidel Pass 
to Weisstannen, see p. 55; via. the Haibiitzli Pass to Elm, see p. 86). From 
St. Martin we may either follow the right bank, via, Schrda, Tiefenwald, 
and Ebne, or the left b:mk, via the Malanser-Alp, to (2 hrs.) the grandly 
situated Sardona-Alp (5735'), whence a steep path leads upwards to the 
S.W. to the (2 hrs.) Trinser Furka (8165'), to the N.E. of the Trinser Horn 
(9935'). We then descend to the Trinser-Alp and round the E. side of the 
Flimserstein (p. 401), via the alps of Bargis and Fidaz, to (3 hrs.) Flims (p. 401) ; 
or we may skirt tbe Trinser Horn to the right and reach b'lim^ via. Segues 
Sura and the Segnes Club Hut. — At the head of the valley, l l /2 hr. from 
the Sardona Alp, is the Sardona Club Hut (7350'; inn in summer), whence 
experts may climb the Saurenstock or Piz Sardona (10,020' ; 3 hrs. ; guide 
23 fr.), the Grosse Scheibe (9585'; 21/2 hrs.; guide 20 fr.), the Piz Segnes 
(10,175'; 31/2 hrs.; guide 25 fr.), the Trinser Horn or Piz Dolf (9935'; 31/2 hrs.; 
guide 22 fr.), and other peaks. — The route over the Sai'dona Pass (9315'j 
to Segnes Sura and Flims, and that over the Scheibe Pass (ca. 8530'), to the 
right of the V^rdere Scheibe, to the Foo-Alp and Elm or Weisstannen, are 
both troublesome ; the route via. the Sardona Pass and the Saurenjoch 
(9380') to the Falziiber-Alp and Elm is difficult (see p. 87). 

21. From Zurich to Glarus and Linthal. 

53 M. Railway (Nordostbahn) to Glarus (43 M.) in lV3-2y 2 hrs. (7 fr. 20, 
5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 60 c.) ; from Glarus to Linthal (10 M.) in 40-50 min. (1 fr. 
60, 1 fr. 15, 80 c). (From Weeoen to Glarus, 8V2M., in 25 min.; lfr. 25, 
90, 65 c.) Carriages are usually changed at Glarus. 

To (35V2 M.) Ziegelbriicke, see pp. 49-51. "We cross the Linth 
Canal (p. 52) ; on the right, the "Wiggis and Glarnisch (p. 78). 37 M. 
Nieder- and Ober - Vrnen ; 39 M. Naf els - Mollis , junction for 
(2i/ 2 M.) Weesen (p. 52). 

Nafels (1434'; 2557 inhab.; *Schwert, R. 1 1/ 2 -2, B. 1, D. 21/2, 
S.I1/2, pens. 41/2 fr-5 Schutzenhof, R. 1-1 1/2- D - 1% P ens - S 1 /^-; 
Hotel $ Cafe National ; LandolVs Restaurant, near the station) and 
Ober-XJrnen are the only Roman Catholic villages in Canton Glaras. 
The church is the finest in the canton. The well-preserved Freuler 
Palace, now a poor-house, contains some interesting Renaissance 
rooms, and on the groundfloor is a Collection of Antiquities made 
by the local historical society (adm. 50 c). On 9th April, 1388, 
the natives here shook off the Austrian yoke. In the Rautifelder, 
where eleven attacks took place , stand eleven memorial stones 
(monument in the Sandlen). The peasants of the district make 
a pilgrimage to the spot on the first Thurs. in April. — On the right 
bank of the Escher Canal lies Mollis (1470'; 1915 inhab.; Bar; 



78 I. Route 21. GLARUS. From Zurich 

*Lowe, R. 11/2-2, B. 1, D. 13/ 4 , S. 11/,, pens. 41/2-6 fr.), an in- 
dustrial village. (Over the Kerenzenberg to Muhletiom, see p. 53.) 
Excursions (guide, if. Hatuer). The Kautispitz (7493'), the summit 
of the Wiggis Chain, is ascended from Nafels in 5-5>/2 hrs. (interesting; 
no difficulty ; guide 10 fr.). On the right bank of the Rautibach, with its 
numerous falls, we ascend in zigzags, crossing the Trdnkibach, to (1 hr.) 
Brand (2510'). Hence a road leads through wood and past the HasUn- See 
(2460' ) to the ( 3 A hr.) small Curhaus Oberseethal (3115' ; pens. 3 l / 2 fr.) and to 
the (2) min.) charming Obersee (3225'). We skirt this lake to the left, 
and ascend through wood to the Grappli-Alp (4730') and ('2 hrs.) Rauti-Alp 
(5400'; shelter-hut), and in l>/2 hr. more to the top, which slopes gradu- 
ally on the W. side (beautiful view). — A rocky arete 1 hr. long, tra- 
versed by a dizzy path, connects the Rautispitz with the Scheye (7420 1 ), 
the second peak of the Wiggis. The Scheye is also ascended from Vorauen 
(p. 85) by the Liingenegg-Alp (4'/2 hrs.), or from the Klonthaler See (p. 86) 
by the Herberig and the Deyen-Alp (4 hrs.), or from Netstal by the Auern- 
Alp (5 hrs.; guide 10 fr.). — The attractive ronte from the Obersee to 
(4'/2 hrs.) Vorauen (p. 85) via. the Lachen-Alp (5120') and the Liingenegg-Alp 
(5257') affords a picturesque view of the Glarni.-ch and other peaks. 

41 M. Netstal (1485' ; pop. 2010; St. Fridolin; Bar; Schwert), 
a large village, lies at the E. base of the Wiggis (see above). 
The Lontsch (p. 86) falls into the Linth here (road to the Klbnthal, 
see p. 86). 

43 M. darns. — 5 Glarnek Hof, at the station, R. 2'/j-5, B. li/s, 
D. 3 fr. ; *Drei Eidgenossen, R. 2, B. 1 fr. ; Lowe; Sonne, R. H/2, pens. 
4^2 fr. ; Schweizerhof; Hotel Bahnhof, R. 1V2 2, pens. 5 fr. — Beer 
at the Sonne and the BStel Bahnhof. — Summer Reilaurant on the Bergli 
(1883'), 20 min. to the W. of the town, an admirable point of view (adm. 
20 c. for those who do not order refreshments). 

Glarus (1490' ; pop. 4896), Fr. Olaris, the capital of the canton, 
with busy industries, lies at the N.E. base of the precipitous and 
imposing Vorder-Glarnisch (7648 r ), at the W- base of the Schild 
(7500'), and at the S.E. base of the Wiggis (see above), the barren, 
grey summits of which form a striking contrast to the fresh green on 
their slopes. The Kdrpf 'stock (9180') forms the background to the S. ; 
to the right, the Hausstock (10,340'), to the left, the Oandstock 
(7600'). In 1861, during a violent 'Fohn' (S. wind), the greater part 
of the town was burned down. The new Romanesque Church is used 
by the Roman Catholics and the Protestants in common. In 1506- 
16 the reformer Zwingli was pastor at the old church, burnt in 1861. 
Its site is now occupied by the Law Courts, which contain the Can- 
tonal Archives, the Public Library, and a small Oallery of Pictures, 
chiefly by Swiss artists (adm. 50 c). In the new Post Office 
Building are collections of antiquities and natural curiosities (fine 
fossils). The Town Hall contains an excellent relief-model of the 
canton of Glarus by F. Becker and a relief of the Elm Landslip 
by Prof. A. Heim (adm. free). The Public Gardens contain mem- 
orials to the statesmen J. Heer (d. 1879) and J. J. Blumer (d. 1876), 
natives of Glarus. — On the opposite bank of the. Linth lies the 
industrial village of Enriinda (Freihof ; Stern), with 2497 inhabitants. 

Excursions (guides, see p. 80). Pretty walk (road) via Crhutizerh-ivs to 
(3i/2 M .) Schwandi (see p. 79). — The Schild (7500'; 5'/ 2 hrs ; -aide 8 fr.). 
The path from Glarus leads through wood and pastures, an! over the 



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to Linthal. SCHWANDEN. I. Route 21. 79 

Ennetberge, to the (3 hrs.) Heuboden-Alp (4770'); then to the right, without 
difficulty, to the top (2 l /t hrs.) Admirable view of the Miirtschenstock, 
Todi, and Glarnisch. — The Fronalpstock (69S0; 4 hrs.; guide 7 fr. ; sim- 
ilar view) is easily ascended by the Knnetberge and the Fronalp. — To the 
Ml'rgthal from the |3 bra ) Heuboden-Alp, by the Murtschen- Alp (Oberstaf el, 
t0u3'), see p 54 (tn the Merlen-Alp direct, 2 hrs.; over the Murgsee-Furkel 
to the Mvrgseen, 2'/2 hrs.; £uide 10 fr.). — To Obstalcen (K hrs.; guide, 
8 f r , unnecessary for experts), a tine route: we cross the Fronalp (Miltleve 
6193', Obere fiU39'), pass between the Fronalpstock and Fahristock to the 
(5 hrs.) Hpcmnegy (510S 1 ), skirt the little Spannegg-See (4757'; with the 
Miirtschensivck on our right, p. 54). and descend the Platten-Alp to the 
Thalalp-See (3810') and (3 hr».) Obstalden (p. 54). — The Vorder-Glarnisch 
(7648' ; 5'/v-(i hrs.; guide 10 fr.), from Glarus via Sackberg and through 
the Glerter Ravine* laborious, for experts only; steep descent by Mittel- 
guppen to i3'/v hrs.) Schwandi («ee b> low). 

The Klonthal (p. 86 1 "8 far as Kichisau deserves a visit. Good road 
to the KIBnthaler See 4'/2 M., thence tn Vorauen 4'/s "•, to Richisau 6 M. 
(one-hnrse carr. there and back 18 two-horse carr. 26-32 fr.). 

From Glarus over the Pragel to Schwyz, see R. 23. 

The railway to Linthal crosses the Linth six times. 43 M. 
Ennenda (p. 7rf). Near (45 M. ) Mitlodi (1665'; St^rn, plain, good 
wine), and beyond it, we obtain a superb view of the Todi and its 
neighbours. On the right bank lies Ennetlinth. The fertile valley 
with its factories contrasts picturesquely with the mountains. 

46 1 /.)M. Schwanden 1 1(90'; Rail. Restaurant; *S<hwanderhof; 
Freihof; Adler, R. l^/^-l, pens. 5-6 fr.; Restaurant Ttchudi), with 
2400 inhab. and large factories, lies at the mouth of the Sernf-Thal 
(p. 86). 

P etty walk (road via Thon IVjM., direct path 25 min.) to Schwandi 
(2360'; Krone), with a splendid view of the Todi and Selbsanft. — From 
Schwandi to the Oberblegi-See (see below) by the Ouppen-Alp (5480) and 
Quppen-Seeli, 4 hrs. 

We cross the Linth below the influx of the Sernf. 471/2^. ^ J '<- 
f urn - Hasten ; to the E., 2M. higher up, is the plain Curhnus 
Tannenberg (view). Farther on is Leuggelbach (Hijflibad, with 
restaurant and garden), with a fine waterfall on the right. — 50 M. 
Luchsingen- Hritzingen (1873'). 

From Lnchsingen or Nitfurn a pleasant excursion to the (2!/j hrs.) 
Oberblegi-See (4680'), at the foot of the Kachistock (p. 85); descent by the 
Bos >achi-Alp and Bruunwald to (3 hrs.) Stachelberg. Fine view of the Todi 
group, etc. 

We cross the Linth to (51 M.) Diesbach-Betschwanden (1958'); 
on the left, the picturesque fall of the Diesbach. 

The Saasberg (7227'), a spur of the Freiberg Range, is ascended from 
Betschwanden, Kiiti or I.inth '1 in 4> ' 2 hrs. (g dde 8 fr.); striking view 
of the Todi, etc. — Karpfstock (Bochkarpf, 9t80'; 7-8 Urs.; guide 15 fr.), 
laborious, for experts only, from Betschwanden or Riiti, via. Bodmen-Alp 
and Kiihlhal. 

Beyond (52 M.) Riiti we cross the Linth for the last time. 53 M. 
Linthal, the terminus, on the left bank. To the N. ('/4 M.) are 
the favourite *Baths of Stachelberg (2178'; R. 1%-b , B. I1/2, 
D. 4, S. 272, board 5-6V2 fr. ; visitors' tax 1 fr. per week), beauti- 
fully situated. The powerful sulphureous alkaline water trickles 
from a cleft in the Braunwaldberg I72 M. distant. *View of the 



80 I. Route 2/. LINTHAL. 

head of the valley : in the centre the Selbsanft (9936') ; to the right 
the Kammerstock (7100'), and adjoining it part of the Tbdi (11,887') 
to the left; between the latter and the Bifertenstock (11, 240*) lies 
the Biferten Olacier. Pleasant walks on the wooded hillside. — 
English Church Service at the hotel in summer. 

Above the station, on the left bank of the Linth, is Ennetlinth, 
with large spinning-mills. On the right bank lies ( 3 / 4 M.) Linthal 
(2238'; *Rabe, It. i l / 2 -^ x /-2, B. 1, D. 2, pens. 6 fr. ; *Bar or Post, 
R. 2, B. 1, pens. 7 fr. ; Adler; Drei Eidgenossen, well spoken of; 
Klausen, near the station, R. 1-1 1/ 2) B. 1 fr. ; Caft National), a 
large village (1896 inhab.). 

Excursions (guides: Leonh. Indermauer of Glarus; Melchior Jenny of 
Schwandi; Abr. Stiissi at the Glarnisch-Hiitte, p. 86; Fritz Zweifel, Beinrich 
Schietter, Rob. Hdmig, Thorn. Wichter, Fritz Vbgeli, and Tobias Indergand 
of Linthal ; Hiloriui Rhyner of Elm). The "Lower Fatschbach Fall is 
reached by a good path on the left bank of the Linth in V2 hr. ; or we 
may follow the road to the Tliierfehd (see below) on the ri^ht bank for 3 /4 M., 
then diverge to the right, crossing the Linth and the Fatschbach below 
the fall, and return by the left bank (1 hr. in all). From the fall a 
footpath ascends to the right to the (74 hr.) Inn zum Ramis. on the Klausen 
road (tine view). The beautiful "Central Fall (Bergli-Stiiber) is best seen 
from the fifth bend of the Klausen road (p. 82), about 272 M. from Linthal; 
a path descends from the Bergli inn to the foot of the fall. — To the 
"Pantenbriicke, '-"Oeli-Alp, and Sandalp, see p. 81; also to (IV2 hr.) Braunwald 
(4920'; Niederschlacht and Rubschen inns, pens. 3-472 fr), a mountain-hamlet 
with a magnificent view of the Tbdi, best from beside the school, '/z hr. 
farther on; to the Oberblegi- See (p. 79), etc. — Kammerstock (Thurm; 
7100'), by the Kamrner-Alp in 472 hrs., repaying, and not difficult (guide 
8 fr.). — Ortstock or Silberstock (8908'), by the Alp Brdch, the Barentrilt, 
and the Furkeli, 7 hrs., laborious; splendid view (guide 15 fr.). — Grieset 
or Faulen (8935'), by the Braunwald- Alp, 6 hrs., attractive, and not dif- 
ficult (guide 15 fr.). The Bbse Faulen (92O0 1 ), the N. and higher peak of 
the Grieset, is difficult (6-8 hrs. ; guide 30 fr.). These peaks afford an 
interesting survey of the stony wilderness around. Other fine points are 
the Pfannenetock (8440'; 7 hrs.; guide 17 fr.) and the Kirchberg (Boher 
Thurm; 8761'; 8 hrs.; guide 20 fr.). From the Faulen via the Drteklotn- 
Alp (5560') to the Glarniich-Hiitte (p. 86), 4V2 hrs. — Gemsfayrenitock 
(9758'), not difficult, 7-8 hrs. (guide 20 fr.). We cross the Linth at the 
Auengiiter (see below) and ascend through wood, crossing the Schreienbaeh 
and passing the Wangen-Alp, to the (5-6 hrs ) Clarida Club Hut, on the Alien- 
orenitock (78G5') ; then over the Clariden Glacier to (2 hrs.) the summit. The 
descent may be made by the Beekenen to (2 hrs.) the Upper Sandalp (p. 81), 
or by the Gemsfayer-Alp to (2 hrs.) the Urnerboden (see p. 83). — r Ihe 
Cbrida Hut is also the starting-point of the ascents of the QeUibiitzittock 
(8925'; 2 hrs.; puide 15 fr.), the Vordere and Binlere Spitzalpelittock (9245' 
and 9-52'; 272-3 hrs.; 17 and 20 fr.), the Bocktschingel (10,000'; 3 hrs.; 
guide 30 fr. : difficult), the Claridenstock (10,"30'; 3-4 hrs.; 30 fr.), and the 
CaticharanU (10,045' ; 372 hrs. ; 30 fr.). — Over the Clariden Pait to the 
Madetaner-Thnl, see p. I3H (from the Clarida Hut to the Hufialp Hut 7-8 hrs.; 
guide from Linthal 30 fr.). 

From Linthal to Elm by the Richetli Pan (Vfe hrs.; guide 10 fr.), 
see p. 88; through the Biii-Thal to Muotathal, see p. 84. 

A road, at first ascending (view of the *Fatschbach Fall, see 
above) and then level, leads from Linthal (one-horse carr. 8 fr., 
two-horse 12 fr.; whole day 12 or 20 fr.) by the Autnguter (Pens, 
l-'reihof; Inn l Im Auen') to the (3V 2 M. )Thierfehd (2680'; *H6tel- 
l'ens. Tbdi, R. 1 1/ 2 -2 V-», B. 1 , D. 3, pens. 5 V2-6V2 fr.), a green pasture 












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UPPER SANDALP. I.R.21. 81 

surrounded by lofty mountains. On the latter part of the route we 
have a view of the *Schreienbach Waterfall (230' high), which the 
morning-sun tints with rainbow hues. Fine view of the falls of 
the Linth and of the Panten-Briicke from the *Kanzeli, l /% hr. from 
the inn (rough path) . 

A few paces from the inn a bridge crosses the Linth, beyond 
which a good new path ascends for i/ 2 hour. On a rock to the left 
is a slab to the memory of Dr. Wislicenus, who perished on the 
Grunhorn in 1866. The path then descends a little towards the 
ravine, turns a corner, and reaches (^4 hr.) the Panten-Briicke 
(3212'), 160' above the Linth, amidst imposing scenery. On the 
right bank a path ascends the grassy slope to the (20 min.) *TJeli- 
Alp (3612' ; superb view of the Todi). 

We return by the same path to the Hotel Todi ; or we may retrace our 
steps about 30 yds. and ascend to the K. hy an ill-defined forest-path to 
the (l>/4 hr.) Lower Baumgarten-Alp (5250'), high above the Thierfehd, 
with a magnificent view. We may descend a narrow and dizzy path (guide 
desirable, but not to be had at the Alp, which is usually deserted in sum- 
mer), skirting the precipice of the Tritt, turning to the left, 5 min beyond the 
Baumgarten-Alp. to ( : /2 hr.) Oborl (3425'; Curhaus, rustic, pens. 3!/2 fr.). and 
thence to the right via the Auenguter to (1 hr.) Linthal. For persons subject 
to giddiness this excursion is preferable in the opposite direction : Linthal, 
Auengiiter, Obort, Baumgarten-Alp, Ueli-Alp, Panten-Briuke. — A steep 
path leads to the £. from the Baumgarten-Alp (guide advisable; to the 
Muttsee Hut 10 fr.) along abrupt grassy slopes to (l'/« hr.) the rocks of the 
Thor (6755'); then it bends to the right to P/4 hr.) the Niisehen-Alp (7270'), 
thence skirting the Muttenwandli to (l 1 /* br., 6 hrs. from Linthal) the 
Muttsee Club Hut ( c 1700 on the Muttsee (8135'), the loftiest lake in the 
Alps (generally still ice-bound in July and Aug.). The hut is the starting- 
point for the Niischen<tock (95(10'; 2V2 hrs. ; guide 15 fr.), Riichi (9355'; 
21/2 hrs.; 16 fr.), Schtidstockli (9220'; 4 hrs.; 20 fr.), Buchi (10,190" ; 3</2hrs.; 
20 fr.), Hausstock (10,340'; from the Ruchi across the icy arete in 1 hr. ; 
25 fr.), and A/uitenstock (10,140'; 4'/2 hrs.; 25 fr.). The Biferlenstock (11.240'), 
scaled via ihe Kisten Pass and the E. arete in 8-9 hrs. (guide 40 fr.) and the 
Belbsunft (Hint.re 9 35', Mi'tlere W'25', Vurdere 9020'), ascended via the 
Ories Glacier in 5 X hrs. (guide 35-10 fr.), are very difficult. — Over the 
Kitten Pass to Ham, see p. 82. 

The "Upper Sandalp (6358'), 3'/2 hrs. above the Panten-Briicke, is fre- 
quently visited on account of its grand situation (guide, not indispensable, 
8 fr.) The path ascends beyond the Panten-Briicke to the right and 
crosses the Lirnmern-Bach, which descends from a gorge. Farther on we 
cross the Sandbach and ascend the left bank to the (1 hr.) Tordere Sandalp 
(41U0'; rfmts.), where we return to the right bank. By the (20 min.) 
Sintere Sandalp (4330') the path crosses the Biferten- Bach, and then ascends 
the steep and fatiguing slope of the Ochsenblanken, 1600' in height, where 
the Sandbach forms a fine cascade. Lastly we recross to the left bank, 
where the brook pierces a rocky gorge, and soon reach the (2 hrs.) chalets 
of the Upper Sandalp (alpine fare and hay-beds in July and August). 
Finest view l /a nr - beyond the chalets. 

The Linth Valley ends with a magnificent group of snow-mountains. 
The giant of this group is the Tbdi or Piz Rusein (11,887'; from Linthal 
11-12 hrs.; difficult, for experts only; guide 35 fr., two required for a 
single traveller), with its brilliant snowy crest, ascended for the first time 
in 1837. The route from the Hintere Sandalp ascends steeply to the left 
through the Biferten - Thai via the Marenblanktn to the (4'/2hrs. from 
Thierfehd) Fridolin Hut of the S. A. C. (7071)'), on the Biferten- Alpeli, where 
the night may be spent. We thence ascend to the (1 hr.) Qrilnhorn Hut of the 

Babdekeb, Switzerland. 19th Edition. 6 



82 /. R. 21. — Map,p.8<). KISTEN PASS. 

S. A.C. (8050') and along the left side of the Biferten Glacier, crossing the 
Schneerunse, a gully exposed to ice-avalanches in the afternoon, and the 
Gelbwandli, to the (4Vj-o hrs.) summit. Magnificent view. We may descend 
by the Porta da Spescha (11,023'), between the Piz Mellen (11,086') and Stock- 
gron (11,215'), to the Val Rusein and (6 hrs.) Disentis (p. 406; guide 45 fr.); 
or by the Gliemspforte (10,925'), between the Stockgron and the Piz Urlaun, 
to the Gliemt Glacier; then over the Puntaiglas Pass (9240') to the Puntaiglat 
Glacier and down the Val Puntaiglas to Trunt (comp. p. 405). 

Passes. From the Upper Sandalp a fatiguing route crosses the Sand- 
firn and the Sandalp Pass (Sandgrat; \V. summit of the pass 9120'; E. 
summit 9210) to Disentis in 7-8 hrs. ip, 406; guide 30 fr.); another, laborious 
but interesting, crosses (8 hrs.) the Pi.ancka or HOn Pass (9645') to the 
Maderaner-Thul (p. 136; guide 30 fr.). 

Feo.m Linthal over the Kisten Pass to Ilanz, 13 hrs. (guide to 
Brigels 27 fr.), fatiguing but interesting. Ascent by the (3 hrs.) Baum- 
garten-Alp to the (3 hrs.) Mutt see Club Bui (p. 81). Thence via the Mullen- 
Alp, the Lattenflm, and the K istenband, high above the Limmern- Tha I and 
opposite the Selbsanft and Bi/ertenstock (with the Gries and Limmern 
Glaciers), to the (l'/ 2 hr.) Kisten Pass (8280'), lying to the N. of the 
Kistenstockli OCOT). Descent to the Val Frisal, by the Alp Rubi to (3 hrs.) 
Brigels (p. 405), and thence either to the left to (2>/2 hrs.) Ilanz (p. 402), 
or to the right via Schlans to (2 hrs.) Truns (p. 405). 



22. From Linthal to Altdorf. Klausen Road. 
Schachen-Thal. 

30 M. Diligence (8 seats; no extra-carriages) twice daily in 8"< hrs. 
(12 fr. 15, coupe 14 fr. 55 c), with tyn hr's. halt at Irnerboden (Tell Inn). 
Carriage with three horses (6 seatsl 80-90 fr., and gratuity. — The 
"Klausen Road, one of the most beautiful of mountain-roads, was con- 
structed in 1893-99 by the cantons of Olarns and Uri, at a cost of 
4,140,000 fr. , to connect the upper part of Canton Glarus with the 
St. Gotthard Railway and the Lake of Lucerne. It form9 a very attractive 
drive (t i Urnerboden in 3 hrs-, to Dnterschachen in 6 ! /s hrs); from the 
Urneiboden to Unterschachen it is also well adapted for walking. 

Linthal, see p. 80. The diligence starts from the station and 
i?tops at the ( ] / 2 M.) Bear Inn in the village. The road leads across 
the Linth to Ennetlinih (p. 80) and ascends in a sweeping curve along 
the rocky slope, passing through tunnels and galleries (charming 
glimpses of the valley). Beyond the second gallery is a path 
descending to the Lower Fatschbach Fall (p. 80). The road then 
ascends in long windings (short-cuts for walkers) over the grassy 
slopes of the Fruttberg, to (21/4 -M. ) the Riimis Inn ('2SS.V) and the 
( 3 /4 .VI.) Beri/li Inn. A sign-post on the left indicates the way to 
the beautiful Middle Fatschbach Fall ('Bergli-Stiiber', p. 80). We 
next reach (iy. 2 M.) the diligence- station of Fruttberg (Oberberg; 
3;)Nf)' ; inn), at the foot of the Riedstiickli (6070'), whence we enjoy 
a fine retrospect of the liiiehi, Scheidstiickli, and Hausstock; to 
the left, in the gorge, is the Upper Fatschbach Fall ('Hell-Stiiber'). 
Thence the road ascends gently along the slopes of the Frittern, 
partly through wood , to the (3 M.) boundary (new obelisk) be- 
tween (ilarus and I'ri, where the Scheidbachli (4290') descends 
from the right. 



KLAUSEN PASS. Map,p.80.— I.B.22. 83 

The timer Boden, a grassy and at places marshy valley, 4'/ 2 M. 
long, watered by the Fatschbach , and containing a few groups of 
chalets, now begins. It is bounded on the N. by the jagged Jagern- 
stocke and Marenberge, culminating in the Ortstock (8908'), and on 
the S. by the glaciers and snow-fields of the Clariden (10,730'). 
About t l fe M. from the frontier of Glarus we pass the inn Zur Sonne, 
and !/2 M. farther on the inn Zum Klausen. We then reach the 
diligence-station of (8/4 M.) — 

91/4 M. Urnerboden (4525' ; *H6t. Wilhelm Tell und Post, R. 2-3, 
B. 1, D. W/z-3, pens. 6-7 fr. ; Alpenrose, Urnerboden, both very fair), 
with the chalets of Spitelruti and. a chapel. 

Excursions. Gemsfayrenstock (9758'), via the Gemsfayer Alp in 5-6 hrs., 
with guide, troublesome but repaying (comp p. 80). — Grosse Scheerhorn 
(10,815'), from the (2 hrs.) Klausen Pass via the Kammli-Liicke (9364') in 6 hrs., 
with guide, difficult (comp. p. 137). — Leckistock (a summit of the Maren- 
berge, 8145'), via the Firnerloch (see below) in 3'/z-4 hrs. with guide, fatigu- 
ing; the descent may be made through the Brilhlkehle to the Glatiensee 
(p. 85). — Via the Firnerloch (7355') to (7 hrs.) Muotathal, laborious; the 
descent from the pass to the Gwalpeten-Alp in the Bisithal is very steep 
and requires a steady head (see p. 85). 

The road traverses the pasture for 1 M. more , and beyond 
the Waldhiittli ascends in bold curves through the wild rocky 
cauldron of the Klus, with its waterfalls at the foot of the Teufels- 
stocke and the Clariden, to the chalets of Vorfiutt (5945'; rfmts.) 
and the (4 l /2 M.) Klausen Pass (6437'; rfmt. hut) , at the foot of 
the curiously shaped Mcircherstockli (7815'). Beyond the pass the 
shorter footpath to the Sch'achen-Thal, via the Balmwand and Aesch 
(see p. 84), diverges to the left. The new road gradually descends 
via the beautifully situated Bbdmer Alp (to the left , the Kammli- 
stock , Grosse Scheerhorn, Kleine and Grosse Ruchen, and Wind- 
gellen) and then sweeps round to the right to the (l'/2 M.) Upper 
Balm Alp (5660'; inn in summer). Farther on it runs high up on 
the N. side of the wooded Schachen-Thal , commanding fine views 
of the Clariden Glacier, Stauber Fall, Gries Glacier, Scheerhorner, 
Kammlistock, Claridenstock, and (farther on) the Brunni-Thal, with 
the Grosse Ruchen and the Grosse Windgelle. After threading the 
Seelithal Tunnel (126 yds. long) we reach (4 3 / 4 M.) — 

20 M. Urigen (4200'; * Hotel-Pension Posthaus, R. 2-3, B. iy 4 , 
D. 3, pens. 6-7 fr.) , in a charming situation. About 1 /. 2 M. to the 
S.W. is the picturesque chapel of Getschwiler , with an altar-piece 
by D. Calvaert. From here the road winds down (to the right short- 
cut via Getschwiler to Spiringen in 25 min.) to — 

22i/ 2 M. Unterschachen (3345'; *ffitel Klausen, R. H/2-2V21 
B. 1^2, D-3, pens. 6-7 fr.; * Alpenrose, unpretending), a summei- 
resort, finely situated near the mouth of the picturesque Brunni- 
Thal, at the head of which rises the Grosse Ruchen (10,295') with its 
glaciers. To the N. rises the Schachenthaler Windgelle (p. 84). To 
the S. ( 3 / 4 M.) is a small bath-house, with a mineral spring. 

Walkers from the Klausen Pass to Unterschachen save about '/a nr - 
by taking the footpath indicated above, which leads to (5 min.) the chalets 

6* 



84 I.R. 23. — Maps,pp. 98, 78. MUOTATHAL. 

of the Lower Balm (0600'; inn) and Ihen descends the steep slopes of the 
Balmwand to (he ('As hr.) hamlet Im Aesch (4050'; "H6t. StUubi, plain). 
Fine view (if the *Stduber Water f 11. We then descend iheleft bank of the 
impetuous Schachenbach, and finally cross this stream to (lhr.) Unterichachen. 
Three toil ome and difficult routes (guides, Vincenz Bissig and Ferd. 
Gisler of Unterschachen ; camp. p. 1S7) lead from Unterschachen to the 
Maderaner-Thal via. the Ruchtehlen Pats (b790'). the Scheerhorn-Origgtli 
Past (9180"), and the Kammli-Lilcke(9i6i'). — The ' Schachenthaler WindgeUe 
(H096'i 4-4'/« hrs. frnm U risen) is lat'guing and not suitable fur any but 
steadv-headed experts (goide 30, purler 20 fr.). — Via the Kinzig-Pmt 
(u'Slu 1 ) or the Ruosalper KvXm (il25'j to (7 hrs.) Muotathal, see below. 

A good road descends the valley, by Spiringen, Weiterschwanden, 
and Trudelingen, to (5 M.) Brilgg, crosses the Schachenbach and 
the Fdtschbach, and leads to (1 >/ 4 M.) Burglen (p. 1*24) and (1 1/4 M. ; 
30 M. from Linthal) Altdorf (see p. 124). 

23. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel. 

11 hrs. Diligence from Schwyz to (6 1 /* M.) Muotathal twice daily in 
l'/2 hr. (1 fr. 55 c.) : carr. 9, with pair 14 fr. From Muotathal a narrow 
new road runs to (2'/2 hrs.) Alp Bergen, whence a bridle-path leads over 
the Pragel to (2 hrs.j Kichisau (guide not indispensable). Ivo inn between 
Muotathal and Eichisau. It is preferable to visit the KISnthal from Glarus 
(see p. 78). 

Schwyz, see p. 123. The road ascends to the S. through or- 
chards and meadows (view of the Lake of Lucerne to the right), and 
in a wooded ravine at the foot of the Oiebel (3010') reaches the Muota, 
in its deep rocky bed. Opposite, to the right, is Ober-Schonenbuch, 
upon which the French were driven back by Suvoroff in 1799. 
Farther up the Muota ravine, but not visible from the road, is the 
Suvoroff Bridge, which was contested by the Russians and the French 
for two days. (At a sharp bend in the road, 2'/2 M. from Schwyz, 
a road descends to the right to this bridge in 3 min. ; we may then 
return to Schwyz through wood and pastures on the left bank by 
Ober-Schonenbuch, a pleasant walk of 2 hrs. in all.) Beyond (4V2M.) 
Ried (1855'; Adler), on the left, is the pretty fall of the Ostubtbach, 
at first descending perpendicularly, and then gliding over the rock. 
At ( 3 / 4 M.) Follmis (1900') we cross the Muota and pass the Mettel- 
bach Fall in the Kesseltobel. Then (1 M.) — 

61/4 M. Muotathal (1995'; pop. 2223; "Kreut; Hirsch, mod- 
erate; Krone), the chief -village of the valley, with the Nunnery of 
St. Joseph, founded in 1280, and Suvoroff's headquarters in 1799 
(memorial tablet on the school -house). Fine rock-scenery and 
waterfalls near. 

Over the Kinzio Pass to Altdorf, 8 hrs., somewhat fatiguing (guide 
not indispensable). After following the Pragel route for 1/4 hr., we diverge 
to the right, cross the Muota, and ascend the Huri-Thal, passing the cha- 
lets of Lipplitbilhl and Wangi, to the (3V 2 -4 hrs.) Kinzig Pass ( Kintigtvlm 
or Kimerkulm; SSiff) , with a limited view of the Uri and Cnterwald 
Alps and part of the Reusthal (bronze tablet commemorating SuvorofTs 
cros-ing 01 the pass in 1799). Then a rapid descent to the Schdchen- Thai 
(p. 83), Weterichwanden, and Bilrglen (p. 124). or to the left to Spiringen 
or Unterichachen (p. 83). 



RICHISAU. Map, p. 78. - I. R. 23. 85 

Thkodgh the Bisi-Thal to Stachelbebg, iO hrs., rough but attractive; 
guide necessary. Good path (at first a road) through the narrow Bisi-Thal, 
watered by the Muota, to (2 ] /2 hrs.) Schwarzenbach (3153'; *Inn), with a fine 
fall of the Muota; steep ascent thence to the left to the (3 hrs.) Alp Mcichberg 
(6293'); then across the dreary Karren-Alp, between the Kirehberg and Faulen 
(p. 80), and down the Bratmwald-Alp to (4'/2 hrs.) Btachelberg. — Another and 
more interesting route is the following (9V2-10hrs., with guide). From Schwar- 
zenbach through wood and meadows (path generally well discernible) to the 
(l'A hr.) * Waldibach Fall, the finest waterfall of Central Switzerland ; ascent 
them-e to the left to the (2 hrs.) Glatt-Alp, with the pretty blue Glatlen-See 
(6090'), surrounded by lofty cliffs, and to the (3 hrs.) top of the OrtHock or 
Silberstock (8908'; p. 80); descent via the Brach-Alp to (3-3'/2 hrs.) Stachel- 
berg. — From the Waldibach Fall we may also ascend to the right over the 
Waldi-Alp and Ruos-Alp to the (3 hrs.) Ruosalper Kulm (7125'), and descend 
to the new Klausen road and to (2 hrs.) Unterschdchen (p. 63) ; or we may 
continue to follow the valley from the Waldibach Fall to the Gwalpeten 
Alp (5110') and then ascend (very steep) over the Fimerloch (7355') to 
(4'/2 hrs.) the Urnerboden (p. 83). 

To Sisikon through the Riemenstalden-Thal and across the Katztn- 
tagel (4888 1 ), a footpath, 7 hrs. (unattractive ; comp. p. 106). 

The new road to the Pragel turns to the left at (U/2 M.) the foot 
of the Stalden, enters the valley of the Startienbach, and ascends, 
first on the left bank , then on the right , partly through woods. It 
affords many fine retrospects. Finally we return to the left bank and 
reach the (6 M.) Alp Bergen (3200'), in a green valley. Beyond this 
point a bridle-path (road to Richisau in contemplation) ascends, at 
first abruptly and then more gradually, to a refuge-hut and the 
( 3 / 4 hr.) chalets on the marshy top of the Pragel (5060'; tablet 
erected in 1900 in memory of Suvoroff's retreat in 1799). 

Descent, at first steep and stony, to the (3/ 4 hr.) chalets of the 
Schwellaui (4367'); then through wood; V^r.the Neuhuttli(il9S''); 
here we descend to the right, where the pretty Klonthal and its 
lake become visible ; i / i hr. Bichisau (3590'; *Curhaus, pens. 6-7 fr.), 
a rich green pasture with fine groups of trees, to the N. of which 
tower the Wannenstock (6495') and Ochsenkopf (7155'), and to 
the S. the Silbern (7570'). 

The SchwammhShe, an old moraine, V2M. to theE. of theCurhaus, affords 
a beautiful view of the Klonthaler See, Schild, Glarniseh, and (to the S.) the 
Faulen. Attractive excursions may be made to the W. to the (2'/2 hrs.) Cross 
on the Saasberg (6225'; pass to the Sihlthal and Einsiedeln) and to (5 min.) 
the Sihl-Seeli (5985') ; to the S. to (3 hrs.) the top of the Silbern (7570'), 
with fossils and interesting furrowed slopes (defcent to the Silbern-Seeli 
and via, the Rossmatter-Thal to the Klonthal) ; to the Gldrnisch (see below; 
7 hrs.); to the top of the Faulen (Grieset, 8935') via the Dreckloch-Alp in 
7 hrs. (with guide), descending to (4 hrs.) Stachelberg (p. 79); to the N., via. 
(l'/4 hr ) the Schweinalp Pass, to (2 hrs.) Hinter- W&ggithal (comp. p. 51); to 
the top of the Ochsenkopf (7155'; 2'/2 hrs.; with guide); to the top of the 
Scheye (742C; 5 hrs. ; see p. 78) via Ldngenegg. 

From Richisau a road descends , across a fine open pasture, in 
full view of the imposing Glarniseh, to (1 hr.) Vorauen (2640'; 
"Hdtel-Pension Klonthal, pens. 6 1 /2 - '<' 1 /2 fr- ; Vorauen Inn, at the 
lower end of the village, plain), beautifully situated. 

The "Glttrniach , the huge rocks of which bound the Klonthal on the 
S. side, one of the finest mountains in Switzerland, culminates in the 
Vorder- Glarniseh (7648'), the Vrenelisgdrtli (9535'), the Ruchen- Glarniseh 



86 /. R. 23. — Map, p. 7.s. Kl/HNTliAL. 

(9557'), and the BUchUlock (9583'). The ascent of the Ruchen-Glarnisch is 
laborious, but not difficult for experts (guide 20 fr. ; see p. 80). We cross 
the Richisauer and Rossmatter Klon , to the W. of Vorauen, to the huts 
on (40 min.) the Klonttaldm (3450' ; direct path hither from Richisan in 
25 min.), then enter the narrow Rossmatter - Thai (red marks), pass the 
chalets of Kdsern (3968') and Werben (4562'), and reach the (3 hrs.) Club Hut 
in the Steinthali (6595'; inn in summer). We next ascend steep and stony 
slopes, cross the Glarnischfirn, regain the rock, and reach the top in 3 : /2 hrs. 
from the hut. Superb view (panorama by Heim). — The Vorder-Qlarnisch, 
from Glarus, 5'/2-6 hrs., comp. p. 79. 

The *Klonthal is a picturesque, thinly-peopled dale, with mea- 
dows of freshest green. To the S. rise the precipices of the Olar- 
nisch (see above"). The pale-green Klonthaler See (2640'), lifeH. 
from Vorauen, 2 M. long and l fa M. broad, enhances the beauty of 
the valley , reflecting in calm weather the minutest furrows on the 
side of the Glarnisch. A rock on the S. bank, near a waterfall, 
bears an inscription to the poet Salomon Oessner (d. 1788), who often 
spent the summer in a chalet here. The road skirts the N. bank; 
rowing-boat down the lake in 50 min., iy 2 fr- At the (3'/ 2 M.) 
Seeriiti, at the lower end of the lake, is a small inn. 

Below the lake the valley narrows to a gorge, through which dashes 
the Lontsch, the discharge of the lake, forming a series of small cas- 
cades, in grand rocky setting, down to its confluence with the Linth, 
below Netstal. To the left rise the huge cliffs of the Wiggis Chain 
(p. 78). Pretty view of the ravine (165' deep) from the new stone 
bridge, reached by a footpath diverging to the right about 2^4 M. 
from the Seeriiti. The road divides at the (^M.) Staldengarten Inn. 
The left branch leads to (2M.) Netstal (p. 78), the right crosses the 
Lontsch to (1 M.) Riedern and (iy 4 M.) Glarus (p. 78). In de- 
scending we enjoy a fine view of the Fronalp stock, the Schild, and 
the Freiberge (between the Linth and Sernf valleys). 

24. From Glarus to Elm through the Sernf- Thai. 

121/2 M. Kailwai from Glarus to (3 M.) Schwanden, 17 min. ; Diligence 
(1 fr. 85 c.) from Schwanden to (9'/2 M.) Elm thrice daily in 2 3 /« hrs. (descent, 
1 3 A hr.). 

At Schwanden (p. 79), 3 M. to the S. of Glarus, the deep Sernf- 
Thal, or Klein- Thai, diverges to the left from the Linth-Thal. The 
highroad gradually ascends the N. slope. Beyond (l'/s M.) Wart, a 
pretty waterfall on the left. 3 M. Engi (2540'; pop. 1160; *Sonne, 
Adler, Freihof), with cotton - mills, at the mouth of the narrow 
Miihlebach-Thai. (Over the Murg Pa's to the Murgthal, see p. 54.) 
The slate - quarries (Plattenberge) on the left bank of the Sernf 
are noted for their fossils. From (2 M.) Matt (2710'; Elmer, fair), 
an attractive path to the N.E. leads in 5^2 nrs - through the 
Krauchthal and over the Rieseten Pass (6644') to Weisstannen (p. 55 ; 
guide 10 fr.). 

3 M. Elm (3215' ; *Curhau." Elm, prettily situated, R. 2-4, B. i l /t, 
D. 3 , S. 272) pens. 7-9 fr.. with a mineral spring; Hot. Elmer, 



ELM. Maps, pp. 78, 402. — I. R. 24. 87 

pens, from 5 fr., Zentner , pens, from 3 ft., both well spoken of), 
the highest village in the valley, in a fine basin encircled by moun- 
tains, is frequented as a summer-resort. It was partly destroyed on 
11th Sept., 1881 , by a landslip from the Tschingelberg (S.E.), by 
which 114 persons lost their lives (memorial tablet at the church). 

Ascents (for experts only; guide, Hilarius Rhyner). Rarpf stock (9180'), 
by the Erbsalp in 6 hrs. (guide 15 fr.), and Vorab (9925'), by the Tschingeln- 
Alp and Biindnerberg Glacier in 8 hrs. (guide 20 fr.), both laborious, but 
interesting (comp. p. 79 and below). — Hausstock (10,340'), by the Richetli 
Pass and the Leiterberg, or by the Panixer Pass (see below) in 9 hrs. (guide 
20 fr.), laborious. — The Piz Segnes (10,175'), by the FaUiiber Alp and Sauren 
Glacier in 8 hrs., or from the Segnes Pass (see below) in 2 hrs. (guide 
20 fr.), the Saurenstock or Piz Sardona (10,020' ; 71/2 hrs. ; guide 20 fr.), and 
the Grosse Scheibe (9585'; 7 hrs.; 20 fr.) are all three trying and better 
attacked from the Sardona Club Hut (p. 77). 

Passes. To Flims oveb the Segnes Pass (pron. 'Senyes'), 8 hrs., fatigu- 
ing, but interesting (guide 17 fr.). We cross the Sernf, amidst the remains 
of the landslip, and the Eaminbach , and ascend the wild gorge of the 
Tschingelnbach, which forms picturesque falls, to the Tschingeln-Alp ; then 
mount steep stony slopes and rock to the (5-6 hrs.) Segnes Pass (8615'), 
lying to the S.W. of the Piz Segnes (10,175'). To the right rise the jagged 
Tschingelhttrner or Manner*. (9350'), pierced by the Martinsloch (8648'), a hole 
through which the sun shines on the church of Elm twice a year. We 
descend the short but steep Segnes Glacier (easy, except in the absence of 
snow, when rope and ice-axe are useful) to the (l'A hr.) Segnes Club Hut 
on Segnes Sut (6990'), then by a steep path, afterwards better, to the Flimser 
Alpen, and past a fine waterfall (to the left, the huge Flimser Stein, p. 402) 
to (2 hrs.) Flims (p. 401). 

To Ilanz over the Panixer Pass, 8-9 hrs. (guide to Panix 15 fr.), 
fatiguing; historically famous for Suvoroffs retreat of 5-10th Oct., 1799 
(comp. p. 84). A road ascends on the left bank of the Sernf from Elm by 
Hinter - Steinibach to the ( 3 /4 hr.) Erbser- Briicke; 1/2 nr - farther up, at 
Wallenbrugg , we cross the Sernf and ascend by a steep , rugged path 
to the chalets of the Jdtzalp (Im Loch, 4822'; Ober-Staffel, 5587'). We 
next cross the Walenboden and traverse the snow-couloir of the Gurgel, 
at the base of the Rinkenkopf (8620'). Farther on we traverse a tract of 
debris (with a small tarn on the left) and reach the (3'/2 hrs.) Panixer 
Pass (Cuolm da Pignieu; 7897'), with a small refuge-hut. To the left rises 
the Rothstock (8615'); to the right are the Ruch-Wichlenberg (9186 1 ) and the 
Hausstock (ascent from the pass in 3V2-4hrs., see above), with the Meer 
Glacier. Descent over the Meer-Alp and the wild Ranasca-Alp to (2'/2 hrs.) 
Panix (4334'; Panixer Pass Inn), and via Ruis to (2 hrs.) Ilanz (p. 402). — 
Another route, fatiguing and uninteresting, crosses the Sether Furka (8565'). 
It diverges from the Panix route to the left, by the tarn above mentioned, 
and ascends steeply to the pass, between the Rothhom and the Vorab (ascent 
of the latter from the pass in 2 hrs., see above). Descent by the Ruscheiner 
Alp and the /Setter Tobel to (9 hrs.) Ilanz (p. 402). 

To Weisstannen by the Foo Pass, 8-8V2 hrs., rough (guide 10 fr.). Up 
the N. side of the deep gorge of the Raminbach , chiefly through wood, 
to the Ramin-Alp, and thence via, Matt (6180') to the (372-4 hrs.) Foo Pass 
(7290'), which affords a fine though limited view. Then down by the Foo- 
Alp and Unter - Siez - Alp (4377') to the Seezthal and (4 hrs.) Weisstannen 
(p. 55). — From the Foo-Alp via, the Scheibe Pass (8530'), on the E. of the 
Vordere Scheibe, to the Sardona Clvb Hut (p. 77), rather difficult. 

To Vattis over the Sakdona Pass, 11-12 hrs., difficult, but attractive 
(guide 30 fr.). From Kim we follow the S. side of the deeply cut Eamin- 
Thal to the Falziiber Alp, and then proceed over slopes of ddbris and 
through a rocky couloir to the Sauren Glacier and the Saurenjoch (ca. 9380'), 
between the Piz Segnes and the peak marked 3013 on the Siegfried Map. 
Beyond the col we traverse the neve" of the Segnes Glacier to the Sardona 



88 1. R.24. — Map,p. 78. RICHETL1 PASS. 

i*ass (9315'). We then descend across the Sardona Glacier to the Sardona 
Club Hut (I350 1 ; p. 77) and through the Calf eiten- Thai to St. Martin (413a 1 ) 
and Viittis (p. 76). Either the Piz Segnet (in,175') or the Pit Sardona 
(It^OSU 1 ) may be easily combined with tiiis route. — Ovee the Haib6t/ii 
Pass to Viittis, 10 hrs., fatiguing (guide 17 fr.). From the (3Vj brs.) Foo 
Pass (p. 87) we first descend to the Obere Poo-Alp, then aacend to the 
right through the Mutten-Thal to the basin of the Haibtttzli, with its small 
tarn I7K93'), and thence to th J . right again to the (3 hrs.) Haibiitzli Pass 
(ca. 8'03'). a gap in the Muttenlhaler Grat. Rough descent via the Platten- 
Alp and the Malanser Alp to (2 hrs.) St. Martin in the Calfeisen-Thal and 
(2 hrs.) Viittis (p. 76). 

To Linthal (p. 80), by the Richetli Pass (7425'), 7 hrs., with guide 
(10 fr.), not difficult ; "View of the Hausstock, Vorab, and Glarnisch. De- 
scent by the Dumach-Thal. 



II. CENTRAL SWITZERLAND. LAKE OF LliOERNK AM) 
ENVIRONS. THE ST. GOTTHARD. 



Conqi. the Maps at pp. 48, 98, 99, 108, 130, 142, 170, 406, 416. 



25. From Zurich to Zug and Lucerne 91 

i. Via, Thalwil 91 

Stalactite Caverns in the Hblle. Zimmerberg, 91. — 
Excursions from Zug: Felsenegg and Schonfels. ' Schon- 
brnnn. Menzingen. Ageri-Thal, 92. 

ii. Via Affoltern gy 

Hansen, 94. 

26. Lucerne 94 

From Lucerne to Kriens. Sonnenberg. Herrgottawald, 99. 

27. Lake of Lucerne . . '. 99 

Weissenfluh, 101. — From Beckenried to Seelisberg. 
Niederbauen. Oberbauen. Buochser Horn, 102. — Rigi. 
Hochfluh. Vitznauer Stock. Seelisberg. Schwendifluh, 
103. — Morschach. Axenf'els, 101. — Axenstein. Stoos. 
Fronalpstock , 105. — Riemenstalden-Thal. Rophaien. 
Rossstock. Liedernen, 106. — Isenthal. Schonegg Pass. 
Rothgratli. Uri-Rothstock. Gitschen, 107. 

28. The Rigi 108 

From Vitznau to Rigi-Kulm, 103. — From Arth-Goldau 
to Rigi-Kulm, 109. — From the Kaltbad to Rigi-Scheid- 
eck," 112. 

29. From Lucerne to Alpnachstad. Pilatus 113 

Biirgenstock, 113. — From Stansstad to Sarnen, 114. 

30. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth-Goldau 116 

i. From Zug to Arth-Goldau. Lake of Zug .... 116 

ii. From Lucerne to Kussnacht and Arth-Goldau . . 117 

31. From Zurich via Wadenswil to Arth-Goldau. From 
Biberbnicke to Einsiedeln 118 

Feusisberg. Hiitten , 118. — Gottschalkenberg. From 
Pfafflkon to Einsiedeln; the Etzel, 119. — From Ein- 
siedeln to Schwyz over the Hacken or .the Iberger Egg, 
120. — The Schlagstrasse. Rosaberg, 121. 

32. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Gotthard Railway . 121 

Goldau Landslip, 122 — The Myten, 123. — Biirglen; 
Rossstock ; Belmiftock, 124. — Erstfelder-Thal Bristen- 
stock. Hohe Fanlen. The St. Gotthard Road from Am- 
steg to Gbschenen , 125. — Pizzo Rotondo ; Passo dei 
Sassi; Val Piora; Taneda, etc., 128. 

33. From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard . . 131 

The Gbschenen Valley. Passes to Realp. the Trift Glacier, 
and the Steinalp. The Fleekistock, 131. — The Badus 
or Six-Madun. Gurschenstock and Gamsstock, 133. — 
Lucendro Lake. The Sorescia ; Pizzo Centrale ; Prosa, 
134. — Fibbia; Piz Lucendro. The Pizzo Rotondo. 
From the St. Gotthard over the Orsino Pass to Realp, 
and over the Lecki Pass to the Furka, 135. 



90 CENTRAL SWITZERLAND. 



34. The Maderaner-Thal 136 

Hiifi Glacier. Seelegg, 136. — Diisgistock; Oberalpstock, 
etc. Clariden Pass; Hiifi Pass; Kammlilucke ; Ruch- 
kehlen Pass; Scheerhorn-Griggeli Pass; Brunni Pass, 
137, 138. 

35. From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. The Furka . 138 

From Realp over the Cavanna Pass to the Val Bedretto. 
Tiefen Glacier; Tiefen-Sattel ; Winterliicke , 139. — 
Furkahorn ; Blauberg ; Muttenhorn ; Galenstockr From 
the Furka over the Nageli's Gratli to the Grimsel Hos- 
pice, 140. 

36. From Lucerne to Engelberg 141 

Stanser Horn, 141. — Nieder-Rickenbach, 142. — Excur- 
sions from Engelberg : Schwand ; Bergli; Fliihmatt; Tatsch- 
bachFall and Herrenriiti; Lower Surenen Alp; Amitobel; 
Schwendli-Alp ; Gerschni-Alp ; Triibsee-Alp ; Fiirren-Alp; 
Wand- Alp; Rigidalstock; Widderfeld; Hutstock; Hang- 
horn; Rothsandnollen ; Engelberger Rothstock; Uri- 
Rothstock; Spannort; Wickelplankstock; Schlossberg; 
Titlis, 143-145. — From Engelberg to Erstfeld over the 
Surenen Pass, the Schlossberg-Liicke, or the Spannort- 
Joch; to Wasen over the Grassen Pass; to the Steinalp 
over the Wenden-Joch, 146. 

37. From Lucerne over the Brflnig to Meiringen and 
Brienz (Interlaken) 146 

The Melchthal ; Kerns ; over the Storegg or the Juchli to 
Engelberg; Hutstock; Kunalphorn. Excursions from 
Melchsee-Frutt, 147. — The Schwendi-Kaltbad. Fliihli- 
Ranft. Kleine Melchthal, 148. — Giswiler Stock. Ex- 
cursions from the Briinig. Wylerhorn, 149. 

38. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Engstlen-Alp. Joch 
Pass 150 

Excursions from the Engstlen-Alp. Schafberg. Satteli. 
Melchsee-Frutt. Gwartler. Hohmatt. Rothsandnollen. 
Hohenstollen. Graustock. Hutstock. Tellistock. Titlis. 
From the Engstlen-Alp over the Satteli to the Gadmen- ■ 

Thai, 151. 

39. From Meiringen to "Wasen. Susten Pass 152 

Triftthal. Excursions from the Trift Hut (Dammaitock, 
etc.); over the Trift-Limmi to the Rhone Glacier; Furt- 
wang-Sattel and Stein- Limmi. From the Stein Inn 
over the Susten-Limmi or the Thierberg-Limmi to the 
Goschenen-Alp. Sustenhorn, 152, 153. 

40. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmen-Thal . 154 

Schwarzenberg. Farnbiihl - Bad. From Wolhusen to 
Langenthal, 151. — Schimberg Bad. From Schiipfheim to 
Fliihli and Sorenberg. From Fliihli via the Seewenegg jf 

to 8arnen, 155. — Schangnau. Kemmeriboden-Bad. 
The Napf, 156. — Ruttihubelbad, 157. 

41. From Lucerne to Wildegg (Aarau). The Seethal 
Railway 157 j 

Excursions from Hochdorf: Hohenrain ; Horben; Ober- , 

reinach, etc., 157. — From Hitzkirch to Wohlen by 
Fahrwangen. From Beinwyl to Reinach and Menzikon; 
Homberg. From Boniewyl to Fahrwangen ; Bresten- 
berg, 15H. 



91 
25. From Zurich to Zug and Lucerne. 

i. Via Thalwil. 

36 M. Nordostbahn, in lV«-2 hrs. (6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 25, 3 fr. 5 c); to Zug, 
18 M., in 43-55 min. (3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 20, 1 fr. 60c). — This is the direc 
route from Zurich to Lake Lucerne and the St. Gotthard (to Arth-Goldau 
in li/4-l 3 /« br.; 7 fr., 4 fr. 90, 3 fr. 50 c). — The tour from Zurich to 
Lucerne via Sihlbrugg, Baar, Cham, Rothkreuz, and Gisikon may be recom- 
mended to cyclists. 

To (8 M.) Thalwil (1437'), see p. 50. The line diverges to the 
right from the railway on the left bank of the Lake of Zurich, and 
skirts the hillside, crossing three arched viaducts, and affording 
beautiful views of the lake. 9^2 M. Oberrieden- Dorf; 10'/2 M. 
Horgen-Oberdorf(lb$8'; Hot. Bahnhof, R. 1-3, B. 1, D. 2 fr., well 
spoken of), lying 246' above the station of Horgen on the bank of 
the lake (p. 50). Just beyond it the train passes through a tunnel 
l'/2 M. long, then sweeps round to the left, and enters the valley of 
theSihlj which it crosses by an oblique iron bridge of 71yds. span. — 
12y 2 M. Sihlbrugg (1696') , close to the right bank of the Sihl, is 
the highest point on the line and the junction of the Sihl thai rail- 
way (p. 47). At the end of the station the train enters the Albis 
Tunnel, 2 M. long, beyond which it traverses a hilly tract. On the 
left rises the wooded rocky hill of the Baarburg (2180'). Before us 
lies Baar, beyond which are the Lake of Zug , Rigi , and Pilatus. 
We cross the Lorze (p. 93). 

I674 M. Baar (1463'; pop. 4480; Lindenhof, moderate; Krone; 
Schwert ; Bossli), a large village, with cotton and other factories. 

In the wild valley of the Lorze., 2'/2 M. to the E. of Baar, are the in- 
teresting 'Stalactite Grottoes in der Holle (one-horse carr. there and hack 
4-5 fr.). The four caverns, at one time full of water, are now lighted hy 
electricity and are open from Easter Monday to Oct. 15th. They contain 
magnificent stalactite formations of varions shapes, besides stalagmites. 
Admission 1 fr., on Sun. 50 c; guide and key at the (V« M.) Restaurant 
Bull (1670'; trout). The lately discovered Upper Grottoes are also worth 
visiting (adm. 70c, Sun. 50c; tickets at the quarries). From the caverns 
routes lead to (2 M.) SchSnbrunn (p. 92) and via the Tobel-Brileke and 
Thalacker to (3 M.) Zug. 

Walkers will find their account in the charming route from Horgen 
(p. 50) to Baar via the Hokgek Egg (l'/2 hr.). The road winds up to (2 M.) 
Widenbach , about l /« M. to the right of which rises the 'Zimmerberg 
(2535'), commanding a beautiful view of the Lake of Zurich (E.), the deep 
and sombre valley of the Sihl (W.), the Lake of Zug, and the Alps (S.) 
(Myten, Eigi, and Pilatus especially prominent). About l fe M. beyond 
Widenbach the road reaches its highest point, the HirzelHbhe (2415'; inn; 
view), whence it descends to the Sihl Bridge (1745'; 'Krone), about 3 M. 
from Baar. 

Farther on we traverse the fertile plain of Baar to — 
18M. Zug. — Hotels: 'Hirsch, E. 2-4, B. I1/4, D. 3-372, pens. 
6-10 fr. ; *Ochs, R. I1/2, B. 1, D. 2'/2, pens. 5-7 fr. ; "Lowe, on the lake, 
E- 21/2-3V2, B. li/i, lunch 2V2-3, D. 3, pens. 5 1 /*- 1 ? 1 /* fr -' S ood beer ln the 
restaurant; 'Hotel Bahnhof, with garden-restaurant, R. 2 1 /*-S 1 /*> B. I1/4, 
lunch 3, D. 31/2. pens. 6-8 fr. ; *H6t. -Pens. Schweizeehof , "Hot. -Pens. 
Zdgekhof, R. 1Vi-3, B. 1, D. 21/2, pens. 6 fr., both at the station ; Hotel 
Rioi, near the station, R. from IV2, B. 1, D. 21/2-3 fr. ; Falken; Bellevue; 



92 11. R. 25. - Mu]>*,pp. 4K. UK. AGERI-THAL. From Zurich 

Widdee; *Pens. Guggithal, on the road to Felsenegg, 4-4'/s fr. ; 'Pens. 
Waldheim, beautifully situated, IV2 M. from the station, pens, from 5 fr. 

Zug (1385'; pop. 6470), the capital of the small canton of that 
name, is beautifully situated on the Lake of Zug (p. 117). The lower 
town, part of which was submerged by the lake on 5th July, 1887, 
has fine Quays, with beautiful views of the lake, the Rigi, Pilatus, 
and Bernese Alps. The picturesque Capuchin Tower rises to the 
left at the beginning of the town. The Oberstadt and Altstadt still 
retain a quaint and mediaeval appearance, with their walls, towers, 
and substantial mansions. In the Old Rathhaus are a handsome 
Gothic room and an interesting Antiquarian Museum (stained glass, 
wood-carvings, gold and silver ornaments, tapestry, etc.; adm. 
50 c). The Gothic Church of St. Oswald (15th cent.) contains a Last 
Judgment by P. Deschwanden, and the Church of the Capuchins an 
Entombment by Oalvaert. In the Arsenal are ancient captured 
weapons and flags , and a scarf stained with the blood of its bearer 
Peter Collin, who fell at Arbedo in 1422. Well -equipped Fish 
Breeding Establishment. On the ( 3 / 4 M.) Rosenberg (1633' ; restau- 
rant) is the interesting Swiss Bee Museum. 

On the W. slope of the Zuger Berg, l>/2 hr. from Zug (good road ; om- 
nibus from the station at 10 and 6, fare 3-4 fr., descent 2-8 fr. ; one-horse 
carriage 8 , two-horse 14-16 fr. ; carriages ordered at the hotels cheaper), 
are the 'Cur-Anstalt Felsenegg (3085'; R. 2-6, B. I1/4, D. 31/2, «. #/«, 
board 6 fr. ; baths ; English Church Service in summer) , with a line view 
towards the W., and (5 min. to the N.) the Curhaus Schbnfels (3065'; R. 
2V2-6, B. I'/j, D. 4, S. 3, pens. 8-12 fr.), with hydropathic establishment and 
pleasant grounds, also commanding a beautiful view. The (>/« hr.) "Booh- 
wachl (3250'), V< M. to the N.E.. commands a complete survey of the Alpine 
chain ; below us, to the E., lies the Lake of Ageri (p. 93). — Pretty walks 
also to the (20 min.) Hiingigiitich (2400'; view interrupted by trees) and the 
P/2 hr.) Horbachgiitsch (3070'), which affords a charming view of the lakes 
of Zug and Lucerne and the Rigi. — The ascent of the (4 hrs.) Wildtpitt 
{Roitberg, p. 121) is attractive, over mountain-pastures with rich flora. 

On the Menzingen hills above the Lorze, 4 J /2 M. to the E. of Zug 
(diligence twice daily, 1 fr. 35, coupe 1 fr. 60c. ; one-horse carriage 8, two- 
horse 16 fr.) and •/* M. from the diligence -station of Edlibach, is Dr. 
Hegglin's well-managed *Sch8nbrunn Hydropathic (2290'; board 6, R. l'/r 
4'/2 fr.), with sunny terrace and forest-walks, much frequented by French 
visitors. The view from the chapel (2330 1 ) extends as far as the Jura. — 
About 6 M. to the E. of Zug (diligence twice daily in l s /4 hr.) is the 
prettily situated village of Menzingen (2635' ; *tbue; Hirtch, pens. 4-5 fr.), 
with a large convent-school for girls; and 1 M. farther on, beyond the 
Edlibach, is the 'Pent. Schwandegg (2770'; pens. 4 l /i-5 fr.), with pine-cone 
and other baths. The summit of the Schwandegg- OUttch commands a view 
of the Lake of Zurich and of the Sentis range. 

Ageri-Thal. A road (diligence to Ober- Ageri twice daily in 2hrs.) ascends 
through a fruitful district via Thalacker (route at the bend to the left to 
Schonbrunn, the Hblle caverns, and Menzingen, see above) and Inkenberg 
to (3 M.) Allemiinden (2320'). Thence it descends into the valley of the 
winding Lorze (on a hill on the other side of the stream is the nunnery 
of Oubel, 2990') to (l'/z M ) Neu-Ageri, and past Miihlebaeh, with its large 
cotton -factories, to (IV2 M.) Unter- Ageri (2790'; pop. 2600; 'Agerihof. 
pen<. 4>/-j-7 fr. ; *H6tel-Permm Waldheim. pens. 4'/ 2 -6 fr. ; *BrUcke; P04I), a 
handsome industrial village on the Ageri-See (p. 93), with a new Gothic 
church, and also frequented as a health-resort. The road flanked by pretty 
villas, skirts the lake to (l l /2 M-) the pleasant mountain-village of Ober- 



o Lucerne. AFFOLTERN. Maps,pp.48,98.—U.R.25. 93 

Ageri ('Ldwe, B. 1-2, B. 1, D. 2, pens. &fa-b fr. ; Hirseh ; Ochs). In a pictur- 
esque situation on the lake, between Unter-Ageri and Ober- Ageri, ia Dr. 
Hurlimann's private Hospital for children ; and on the hill, farther back, is 
a Sanatorium for scrofulous children, erected by the Zurich Benevolent 
Society. — Excursions from Unter-Ageri through the Hilri-Thal and via. the 
Rossberg-Alps to the (2 l /z hrs.) "Rossberg (see.p. 121; new road open as 
far as the Urzlenboden , Ufa M.); from Ober-Ageri to the (1>/j hr.) Qott- 
schalkenberg (p. 119), etc. 

On the idyllic Ageri-See (2380'; 3'/2 M. in length) a steamboat plies 4 
times daily from Unter-Ageri in 3 /4 hr., past the stations of Ober-Ageri, Ldndli, 
and Eierhals, to Morgarten, at the £. end; omnibus thence to rail. stat. 
Saltel-Ageri (p. 121; 50 c). Stat. Eierhals (pension) commands a pictur- 
esque 'View of the Uri-Rothstock, Kronten, etc. Between Eierhals and 
Morgarten are the houses of Haselmatt, where on 16th Nov., 1315, the Con- 
federates in the Battle of Morgarten won their first victory over their Haps- 
burg oppressors commanded by Duke Leopold of Austria. A memorial 
chapel, containing a picture of the battle, waa erected at St. Jakob, 1 M. 
from the S.E. end of the lake and 3 /t M. from Sattel, where an anni- 
versary service is held on the day of the battle. 

Ootthard Railway from Zug to Arth-Qoldau, see p. 116. 

The train to Lucerne backs out of the station and skirts the flat 
N. bank of the Lake of Zug (p. 117), crosses the Lome near its in- 
flux into the lake, and recrosses it at its efflux near (21 '/2 M.) Cham 
[*Rabe; Schliissel; Hirseh, pens. 3V2-5 fr.), a village with a slender 
zinc-covered church spire and a large factory of condensed milk. 
Pretty view of the lake to the left ; on the hill above Zug are the 
Curhauser; in the middle rises the Rigi; and to the right are the 
Stanser Horn, the Bngelberg Alps, and Pilatus. — Beyond (24 l / 2 M.) 
Rothkreuz (1410'; Rail. Restaurant), junction of the lines to Immen- 
see (p. 122; 5 M., in 16 min.) and to Muri and Aarau (p. 25), we 
enter the valley of the Reuss. 27 M. Oisikon. Through an opening 
to the left we survey the Rigi, from the Kulm to the Rothstock. 
30^2 M. Ebikon. To the right rises the wooded Hundsriicken. The 
train skirts the Rothsee, l l /% M. long, and crosses the Reuss. The 
line now unites with the Swiss Central (p. 21) and the Lucerne and 
Bern lines (p. 154), and lastly passes through the tunnels under 
the Qutsch (p. 98) and the Schonheim hill. 

36 M. Lucerne, see p. 94. 

ii. Via Affoltern. 

43 M. Nokdostbahn, to Zug in 1-li/a hr. (4 fr. 5, 2 fr. 85, 2 fr. 5 c); 
to Lucerne in i»/4-2'/4 hrs. (7 fr., 4 fr. 90, 3 fr. 50 c). 

Zurich, see p. 38. — 21/2 M. Altstetten (p. 25). To the left, the 
long Uetliberg (p. 46), which the line skirts in a wide curve. 5^2 M. 
Vrdorf; 8 M. Birmensdorf. We ascend the pleasant Reppisch- 
Thal and pass through the Ettenberg to (11 M.) Bonstetten (1805'; 
*Lowe). To the right the Bernese Alps and Pilatus, and to the left, 
farther on, the Uri-Rothstock and the Titlis become visible. 1 372 M. 
Hedingen (1712'; *Krone); I51/2 M. Affoltern (1640' ; *Lowe, with 
garden, pens. 4'/ 2 -6 fr.), with two 'Kneipp Cure' institutes, the 
*Arche (pens. 4 1 / 2 -7fr.) and the *LHienberg (pens. 7-10 fr.). To 



94 II. Route 26. LUCERNE. HoUh. 

the left, the Aeugster Berg (2723'); at its base, Aeugst and the 
Baths of Wengi. — 18 M. Mettmenstetten (1550'). 

Diligence thrice daily in 50 min. to Hausen (1980'; Krone; LSwe), at 
the W. base of the Albis (p. 47), near which is the excellent Albiibrmn 
Hydropathic (Dr. Paravicini; 2115'; R. 2-4, board 5 fr.), with a pretty garden. 
(Hence to the top of the AlUshom, 3 /i hr., see p. 47.) Near Kappel, l'/sM. 
to tin' S., Zwingli was slain on 11th Oct., 1531, in a battle against the 
Roman Catholic cantons (comp. p. 46). The spot is marked by a rock with 
Cerinan and Latin inscriptions. 

'JO M. Knonau (Adler). Near Zug we cross the Lorze, which 
descends from the Ageri-See (p. 93). 

'25 M. Zug, and thence to (43 M.) Lucerne, see pp. 91-!l;i. 

26. Lucerne. 

Railway Station (a handsome new building), on the left bank of the 
lake (PI. D, E, 4; 'Restaurant), with the main custom-house. Two exits: 
to the steamboats on the right; to the town on the left. — The Steamboats 
to Fliielen start from the railway-station (two of them also from the 
Schweizerhof Quay); the Alpnach boats start from both station and quay, 
the Kussnacht boats from the latter only. — In the busy season travellers 
arriving by steamer or railway with luggage cannot be sure of getting on 
by the corresponding train or boat unless they and their luggage are booked 
through to some station beyond Lucerne. If luggage is booked to Lucerne 
only, it is often impossible to reclaim it and get it rebooked in time. 

Hotels. On the right bank : "Grand Hotel National (PI. c ; E, F, 2), 
on the Quai National, with the 'de"pendance' Nationalhof in the Halden-Str., 
R. from 4, B. l'/j, di : j. 4, D. 6, pens, from 12 fr., patronized by English 
and Americans, concerts twice daily, balls in the evening ; "Schweizerhof 
(PI. a; I>, E, 2), R. from 5, B. IV*, dej. 4, D 6, pens. 10-14 fr. (concerts 
4-6 and 8-10 p.m.), and "Luzerner Hof (PI. b; E, 2), R. from 5, B. I 1 /*, 
de 'j- 3l /2, D - 5 i pens. 9-14 fr., both on the Schweizerhof Quay; 'Hotel 
Beaurivage (PI. d; F, 2), near the Cursaal garden, R. 3-6, B. l'/i, dej. 3, 
D. 4V 2 , pens. 9-12 fr.; "Hotel di l'Europe, Halden-Str., R. 4-7, B. l>/», 
dej. 3, D. 4-5, pens. 8-15 fr. ; "Eden House, Halden-Str., R. 3-6, dej. 3'/j, 
D. 4, pens. 7-12 fr. ; "Hotel d'Angleterre (PI. e ; D, 2), R. from 5'/2, P en9 - 
S-14 fr. ; "Swan Hotel (PI. f ; 1), 3), R. 4-7, B. IV*, dej. 3'/;, D- 4V*. l'ens. 
9-15 fr.; "Hotel dc Rigi (PI. g; 1), 3), R. 3-6, B. l'/ 2 , dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 
8-12 fr.; Hotel-Pension Continental (PI. z; E, 2), Halden-Str., R. 2-5, 
dej . 3, D. 4 fr. ; "Hirn.i. des Balances and Bellkvue (PI. k ; C, 3), near the 
third bridge over the Reuss , R. 3-5 1 /-., B. 1'/*, D. 3'/ 2 , pens. 7l/j-12fr.; 
"Union Hotel, Lowen-Str. (PI. x; E, 1), R. 2'/*-4, D. 3, S. 2'/2, pens. 7 " 9 fr - 

On the left bank: "Hotel du Lac (P). h; D, 4), with bath-home, R- 
from 31/2, B. li/ 2 , dej. 3'/ 2 , D. 4-5, S. 3 fr.; "Hotel St. Gotthard (PI. i; 
D, 4), with restaurant, opposite the station, R. 3-7, B. l'/u, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 
from 9 fr. ; "Hot. Monopol and JIetbopole (PI. y; D, 4), with restaurant, 
R. 3-6, K. li/*, dej 3, D. 4, pens. 8-12 fr.; "Hotel Victoria I PI. w; C, 4), 
with restaurant, R. 3-6, B. IV2, D. 3 4, pens. 81/2-IO fr. ; "Hotel WaldstatMR- 
h»f (PI. '1; D, 4), R. 3-5, B. U/2, D. 3i/ 2 4 fr. ; "Hotel Bristol-Bahnhof 
ll'l. 3; D. 4), R. from 2'/j, B. iy-j, dej. 3, D. 3','a fr. ; these all near the 
station. — Less expensive: "Saovage (PI. t ; C, 4), R. 2'/2-3, D., incl. wine, 
3 fr. ; "Rossli (PI. n; C, 3), R. 'Ji/s, B. U/ 4 , D. incl. wine 3, 8. incl. wine 2'/!. 
pens. 7-8 fr.; "Engel (Ami, ; PI. 1.B3), R. 2-2"/*, B. H/ 4 , D. 21/2, S. 2, pens. 
(i'/2-8 fr. : "Bar (Ours), R. 2 3, L>. 2',*, S. 2 fr. ; "Adler (PI. m ; C, 3), K. 2-4, 
B. iy 4 , I). 3 fr. ; Hut. .1i,:a. Pilatus-Str., 1! li/ 2 -2, D. 2-3 fr.; H. »*•' 
Alpes, on the riu.li t bank of the Reus* , near the Kapell-Briicke; *H6t. 
I'.ui-Niii, Am r.rendel (PI. D, 3), R. 2-3, 1). 2" '.., S. 2, pens. 7-8 fr.; "Hot. 
du Noud (PI. 1; D, 4), with restaurant, R. 2-4, B. 1 fr., "Hotel du Paec 
(PI. 4; 1), 4), 1,11th in the Seidenhof-Str., near the station; *H3t«l de la 



Pensions. LUCERNE. 11. Koute 26. 95 

Poste (PI. o; C, 4), R. 2V2, D. incl. wine 3 fr. ; "Hotel Rutli, 'Hotel 
Sternen, both in the Hirschengraben (PI. B, 4); *Rebstock (PI. v; E, 2), 
beside the Hofkirche, with garden restaurant, R., 2V2-3'/2, B. IV4, dei 2V2, 
D. 3, pens. 7y 2 -9 fr.; *Mohr (PI. u; D, 3), R. 2-2'/ 2 , B. 1, dej. 2, D. 2V2, 
pens. 6-7 fr.; Hirsch (PI. q; 0, 3), R. 2-3, D. 2-3 fr.; "Krone (PI. r; C, 3), 
R. 2V2-372, D. 21/2, pens. 5-7 fr.; 'Kredz (Croix; PI. s, D 3), R. 2-2>/ 2 , D- 
2 fr. ; Goldner Lowe, Kapellgasse 22, R. 2-2 l /2, B. 1, D. 2V2, pens. 6 fr. ; 
Storch (Cigogne), Kornmarkt (PI. C. 3), R. 2-2>/<, B. 1, D. 2fr., good wine; 
Raben, Brandgasse 3, R. l>/2-2, D. 21/2 fr. ; Hot. Bad, Burger-Sir. (PI. C, 4) ; 
"Einhorn, Hertenstein-Str. (PI. D, 2), R. 2-3, B. l'/j, D. 21/2, S. 2 fr. ; 
"Schiff, plain; "Schlussel, E. 2-2V2, B. 1 fr. ; Sonne, R. l!/2-3V2> B. 1, 

D. 3 fr; Drei Konige, near the Rathhaus; Pfistern , R. l'/2-3, B. 1 fr. ; 
"Metzgern, these four on the Reuss ; Hotel Helvetia (temperance), Wald- 
statter-Str. 9, R. 2-3, board 3 fr. 

Pensions. "Tivoli (8-14 fr.), with large garden and bath-house; Kauf- 
mann; 'Villa G'segnet-Matt (pens. 6-10 fr.); * Belvtdere (7-12 fr.), all on the 
Kiissnacht road, close to the lake. Bienz, above the Cursaal (5-7 fr.) ; 
Falter, above the Beaurivage(5'/2-7fr.); "Neu-Schweizerhaut (6-10 fr.), Qygtr 
(6-10 fr.). Villa Maria (from 6 fr.), "Feltberg (Piettker; pens. 5-7 fr.), all 
four loftily situated (PI. E, F, 1); "Alt- Schweizerhaus (Pens. Anglaise); 
Oetinger, Englisch-Gruss-Str. 16; Schloss Bramberg, to the N. of the town, 
with a fine view (6-8 fr.); "Hdt.-Pent. Giilsch (R. 3-5, D. 3-3V2, pens. 8-10 fr.), 
and Hdt.-Pens. Wallis (6-9 fr.), on the Oiitsch (p. 98; PI. A, 3), with charming 
view ; Suter (Gibraltar ; PI. A, 4), suitable for ladies (pens. 6-7 fr.). — 'BSlel <fc 
Curhaus Sonnenberg, see p. 103. — Pent. Stutz (from 6V2 f f ), Pent. Kaslanien- 
bawm (5-7 fr.), see p. 113. — Furnished Rooms at /. Mittler' 1 !, Alpen-Str. 6. 

Restaurants. "Railway Restaurant ; Stadlhof (PI. E, 2; music in the 
evening); Cursaal, see below; Hit. St. Qotthard, Monopole, H6t. du Nord, 
Waldslatterhof, H6t. Bahnhof, seep. 94; "Restaurant Flora, at the station; 
Cafi du Thidlre, Cafi Alpenclub, on the Reuss; Caff du Lac; "ffungaria 
(Hungarian wines) ; See/eld, Halden-Str. 22, with garden on the lake ; Wal- 
hall, Seidenhof-Str., near the Hotel du Lac, cheap (no spirits). — Beer. 
Restaurant Flora, St. Golthard, see above; Louengarten, near the Lion 
Monument; Rosengarten, Grendel-Str. ; Muth, Zurich-Str. 3 (PI. E, 1); Stadt 
Miinchen, near the Hotel des Balances; Eintracht, Hertenstein-Str.; Kreuz 
(see above); Seidenhof, on the left bank of the Reuss; Eichhof, on the 
Kriens road (20 min.). — Confectioners. Cafi de Paris, Pilatus-Str. 17, 
2 min. to the W. of the station ; Cafi Anglais ( Huguenin) , Alpen-Str. 3, 
near the Stadthof; Zitnmermann-Hofer, next door to the Hotel Rigi. 

Cursaal, on the Quai National (PI. F, 2), with reading, concert, and 
ball rooms, restaurant, theatre (seats 2-4 fr.), garden, and lawn tennis. 
Concert daily at 4 p.m. (50 c). Before 4 p.m., adm. to the garden free. 

Panorama of the French army entering Switzerland in Feb., 1871, by 

E. Castres, in the Lowen-Platz (p. 97 ; adm. 1 fr.). — Meyer''! Diorama and 
Alpineum, near the Lion Monument (p. 97; adm. 1 fr.). 

Baths in the lake by the Quai National ; swimming 20, separate bath 
40 c. (towels extra). Lake-baths also near the Tivoli (See above). Warm baths 
at the Hdtel du Lac and at the Feldersche Bade-Anstalt (1 fr.), Spreuer-Brucke. 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. D, 4), near the railway-station. 

Electric Tramways (every 6 min., to Eichhof and Kriens every 12 min. ; 
fare, 15 c. within the town limits). 1. From the Bahnhof-Platz by the 
Schweizerhof Quay and Halden-Str. to the Hot. de l'Europe. 2. From the 
Schweizerhof Quay by the Alpen-Str. and Zurich-Str. to Maihof. 3. From 
the Railway Station by the Pilatus-Str. and Eichhof to Kriens (p. 99). 4. 
From the Railway Station by the Bahnhof-Str., Pfistergasse, and Basel-Str. 
(Gutsch station) to Emmenbriicke (p. 21). 

Cabs. For i/« hr., 1-2 pers. 80 c, 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c. ; for 1/2 hr. 1 fr. 
50 or 2 fr. 20 c. ; for 1 hr., 2 fr. 50 or 3fr. 60 c. ; each box 50 c. To Seeburg 
1 fr. 80 c. or2fr.; Dreilinden-Stiege 2V2 or 4, Dreilinden-Plateau 3>/2 or 5, 
Meggen 4 or 6 fr. — Double fares at night (10-6). 

Bowing Boats at the Quai National (Rud. Herzog), Schweizerhof Quay, 
and Bchwanen-Platz. Fare without boatman 60 c per hr. , with canopy 



96 //. Route 26. LUCERNE. Bridges. 

1 fr. , gondolas 1 or Vfe fr. ; boatman 1 fr. per hr. Also small motor- 
launches. — Steamers, see pp. 99, 113, 117. 

Gold and Silver Work, antique furniture, tapestry, etc., at J. BossarcTs, in 
the Sehwanen- Plata (PI. C, 8). — Money Changers: Falck <t Co., Kapell- 
Platz ; Thomas Cook <fc Son, Schwanen-Platz ; Bank in Luzern, Stadthof ; Kopp <t 
Co., Freihof, Bahnhof-Str. (left bank of the Reuss). 

English Church (St. Mark's) in the Halden-Str., opposite the Cursaal 
(PI. F, 2); service in summer (Sun. 7.45, 11, and 5). Presbyterian Service 
in the Boys' School, Musegg-Str., at 11 and 4. American Service at Christ 
Church (Old Catholic), Musegg-Str. (PI. D, 2), at 7.45, 11, and 5. 

British Vice-Consul, Mr. L. Falck, hanker, Schwanen-Platz. — United 
States Consular Agent, Mr. Julius Hartmann. 

Physicians : Dr. Stuart Tidey, Schwanen-Platz 7 (in summer) ; Dr. Stocker- 
Freiss, Knpell-Platz 9; Dr. Rob. Steiger, Hertenstein-Str. 56. — Dentists: 
Dr. A. Elliott (American), Schweizerhof ; Dr. Alfred Steiger, Hertenstein- 
Str. 56. — Anglo-American Pharmacy (C. Kopp), Schwanen-Platz. 

Enquiry Office, Seehof-Str. 5, near the Schweizerhof. 

Lucerne (1437'; pop. 29,200), capital of the canton of that 
name, lies picturesquely on the Lake of Lucerne or Vierwaldstatter 
See, at the efflux of the Reuss, and is enclosed by well-preserved 
walls with nine watch-towers, erected in 1385, while its amphi- 
theatrical situation, facing the Rigi and Pilatus and the snow-clad 
Alps of Uri and Engelberg, is very striking. 

The clear, emerald-green Reuss issues from the lake with the 
swiftness of a torrent. Its banks are connected by seven Bridges. 
The highest, the iron See-Briicke (PI. D, 3), built in 1869-70, 500' 
long, 50' wide, crosses from the town to the railway-station and the 
post-office, and affords charming views. The two interesting medi- 
aeval bridges, the Kapell-Brucke (PI. D, 3) and the Spreuer-Briicke or 
Muhlen-Brucke (PI. B, C, 3), are both carried obliquely across the 
river. Each has a roof, which, in the case of the former, is painted 
with 154 scenes from the lives of St. Leodegar and St. Mauritius, 
the patron-saints of Lucerne , and from the history of the town ; 
and in the case of the latter, with a Dance of Death. The paintings 
all date from the 18th century. Adjoining the Kapell - Briicke, in 
the river, rises the old Wasserthurm (PI. D, 3), containing the Muni- 
cipal Archives. According to tradition, this building was once a 
lighthouse (lucerna) and gave its name to the town. St. Peter's 
Chapel, on the N. bank, has four modern altar-pieces by Deschwan- 
den (p. 141). — Between the Kapell-Brucke and Spreuer-Briicke 
are the new iron Reuss-Steg (for walkers) and the Reuss-Briicke 
(PI. C, 3); below the Spreuer-Briicke the St. Kdrli-Brucke (PI. B, 
2, 3) and the bridge of the St. Gotthard Railway (p. 121). — The 
Reuss and the lake are enlivened with swans and flocks of half- 
tame waterfowl (Fulica atra ; black, with white heads). 

The *Schweizerhof Quay and the *Quai National (PI. D, E, F, 2), 
with their avenue of chestnuts, extend in front of the large hotels 
and the Cursaal (p. 95) along the N. bank of the lake and afford a 
delightful view. See the stone indicators or 'toposcopes', about the 
middle of the quays. 

View. To the left, the Rigi Group ; to the left is the Kulm with the 
hotels; on the saddle between the Kulm and the Rothstock is the Staffel 



Lion. LUCERNE. II. Route 26. 97 

Inn; more to the right, the Schild, the Dossen, and the isolated Vitznauer 
Stock. To the left of the Rigi, above the hills by the lake, rises the 
Rossberg; to the right of the Vitznauer Stock, in the distance, are the sin- 
gularly indented peaks of the Liedernen Chain, the Clariden, the Tbdi, and 
the Kammlistock; then the Nieder- bauen or Seelisberger Kulm and the Ober- 
Bauen; nearer are the dark BUrgenstock, with its hotel, and the Buochser 
Horn; to the left and right of the latter tower the Engelberg Alps, the last 
to the right being the Titlis ; farther to the right, the Stanser Horn , the 
mountains of Kerns and Sachseln, and to the extreme right Pilatus. 

On a height near the quays is the *Hofkirche, or Church of 
St. Leodegar (PI. E, F, 2), said to have been founded in the 7th 
cent., and restored after a fire in 1633. The two slender towers were 
erected about 1506. It contains a carved pulpit and stalls of the 
16th cent., two altars with gilded reliefs in carved wood, that on 
the N. side representing the death of the "Virgin (15th cent.), a fine 
crucifix by the Engelberg wood-carver Custer, and old stained-glass 
windows. The rich treasury, containing valuable works of the 12th 
cent., deserves inspection (apply to the sacristan). Organ-concert 
in summer daily 6.30-7.30 p.m. (1 fr.). In the arcades enclosing 
the old Churchyard are several frescoes by Deschwanden. 

The Alpen-Strasse and Ziirich-Strasse, passing Meyers Diorama 
of the Rigi and Pilatus (PI. D, E, 2; adm. 1 fr.) and the Panorama 
(p. 95), lead in 5 min. to the famous *Lion of Lucerne (PI. E, 1), 
executed in 1821 to the memory of 26 officers and about 760 soldiers 
of the Swiss guard, who fell in defending the Tuileries on 10th 
Aug., 1792. The dying lion (28' in length), reclining in a grotto, 
transfixed by a broken lance, and sheltering the Bourbon lily with 
its paw, is hewn out of the natural sandstone rock after a model 
(exhibited in the adjoining building) by the Danish sculptor Thor- 
valdsen. Inscription: Helvetiorum fidei ac virtuti. Die X Aug., II 
et III Sept. 1792. Haec sunt nomina eorum, qui ne sacramenti fldem 
fallerent, fortissime pugnantes ceciderunt. Duces XXVI. Solerti ami- 
corum cura cladi superfuerunt Duces XVI. A spring at the top of 
the rock flows down and forms a dark pool at the base. — The 
Chapel (inscription : Invictis Pax) contains the escutcheons of the 
officers (adm. free); and the *Alpineum, opposite the Lion, contains 
five large Alpine views by Ernst Hodel (adm. 1 fr.). 

To the N. of the monument is the entrance to the "Glacier Garden 
(adm. 1 fr. ; explanatory guide by Prof. Heim 20 c), a relic of the ice- 
period, with 32 'glacier-mills' or 'giant's cauldrons', of different sizes (the 
largest being 26' wide and 30' deep), well-preserved 'Gletscherschliffe', or 
rocks worn by the action of the ice, etc., discovered in 1872, and con- 
nected by means of steps and bridges. Other features of interest are a 
reconstruction of a lacustrine village (with some genuine relics), several 
large reliefs of mountains and glaciers, representations of glacial phenom- 
ena, and a collection of stuffed Alpine animals. 

Quaint and picturesque houses of the 16-17th cent, still survive 
in the crooked streets of the older parts of the town. The ancient 
Bathhaus (PI. C, D, 3), in the Kornmarkt, dates from 1519-1605. 
A fresco on the tower represents the death of the Lucerne burgo- 
master Gundoldingen at the Battle of Sempach. 

Babdekeb, Switzerland. 19th Edition. 7 



98 //. Route 26. LUCERNE. RatKKauT 

Ground Floor. The vestibule contains a permanent Exhibition of Art, 
with a collection of old Swiss flags, including several banners presented 
by Popes Julius II. and Leo III- to Lucerne and other towns. — Farther 
on is the Historical <fc Industrial Museum, with the Antiquarium of the Five 
Cantons (open in summer, 9-6; adm. 1 fr.). Room I. contains the armoury 
from the Arsenal, embracing weapons , flags , and trophies of the battles 
of the 14th cent, and of the Burgundian and Milanese wars; in the glass- 
case on the right are the coat-of-mail of Duke Leopold of Anstria, and 
several banners captured by the townsmen at the battle of Sempach. A 
chased sword-bilt ('Tel)enschwert', i.e. 'Tell's sword') of the 16th cent., 
and the uniforms of different Swiss guards (in the middle of the large 
glass-case) should also be noticed. At the windows is exhibited ^'Collection 
of Stained Glass of the 14 - 18th cent. , including a series of armorial 
bearings of the 17th century. — Room II. contains the collections of the 
Historical Society, comprising relics of the prehistoric, Celtic-Roman, Ger- 
manic, and mediseval periods; in glass-cases in the centre are Roman 
objects (bronze statue of Mercury; bronze tripod). — On the first floor is 
the Council Chamber, with beautiful 16th cent, carving on the ceiling and 
walls. In the ante-chamber are a number of portraits of magistrates, most 
of which are by Reinhart. 

The late-Gothic Fountain in the Weinmarkt (PI. C, 3) is by 
Conrad Lux (1481). 

On the left bank of the Reuss, to the right of the rail, station, 
is the large hall of the Federal Rifle Competition of 1901, which is 
to be preserved and fitted up as a Museum of Peace and War. Farther 
to the AV. are the Jesuit Church (PI. C, 4), built in 1667 in the rococo 
style, and the former Jesuit College, now the Government Building, 
with a picturesque court, the state archives, and a collection of 
coins. In the same neighbourhood are the Cantonal School, with 
extensive botanical and geological collections on the third floor 
(open free on Sun., 1-3, and on Tues., 1-4; at other times 50 c), 
the Museum (PI. C, 4), with the cantonal library of 80,000 vols, 
(including many rare books; adm. 10-12), and the Civic Library 
(14,000 vols.), on the Reuss, containing a valuable collection of 
works on Swiss history and copies of Holbein's frescoes on the Harter 
house, pulled down in 1824. 

The *Gutsch (1720' ; PI. B, 3), a height on the left bank of the 
Reuss, at the W. end of the town, affords a splendid view of the 
town, the lake, the Rigi, and the Alps of Uri, Unterwalden, and 
Engelberg; best from the view-tower (lift 30 c). It is reached 
from the railway-station on foot in 10-12 min. (electric tramway, 
see p. 95; cab for 1-2 pers. 1 fr., 3-4 pers. 2 fr.) and then by Cable 
Tramway (196 yds. long; gradient 53: 100; trains every 10 min., 
in 3 min.; fare 35, return-ticket 60 c). At the top (1920') is the 
* Hotel-Pension Oiitsch, with wooded grounds. The walk from the 
Gtitsoh to the Hotel Xonnenbery (p. 99) takes 35 minutes. 

Another beautiful point near the town is the *Drei linden 
(1810'), to which a good road leads in 20 min. from the Hofkirche. 
We ascend the Adligenswiler-Strasse , to the right, behind the 
church, and after 3 min. take the Dreilinden-Strasse to the left, 
which leads to the top in about l / i hr. Halfway, to the left, diverges 
a somewhat more direct route. At the top is a cluster of tasteful 




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Sonnenberg. LUCERNE. II. Route 26*. 99 

villas. The 'Drei Linden' stand in private grounds (no admission). 
In front is a terrace commanding a charming view of the environs 
of Lucerne and the Alps, with the Titlis and Stanser Horn in the 
middle and the Finsteraarhorn and Schreckhorn in the distance to 
the right. We may return to the N.W., by the Capuchin Convent 
on the Wesemlin, to the (20 min.) Lion Monument (p. 97J. 

The most beautiful point of view in the immediate neighbourhood of 
Lucerne is the 'Sonnenberg, a visit to which should not be omitted. 
The electric tramway (p. 95) takes us in 12 min. via Eichhof to (2'/2 M.) 
Kriens (1695'; 'Hotel Pilatus; Linde), a large manufacturing village (pop. 
5949), at the N. foot of Mt. Pilatus. From here a cable-tramway (Vs M. 
long) ascends in 6 min. (fare 80, down 60 c, return-fare 1 fr.), aloDg the 
S. slopes of the Sonnenberg (mean gradient 1 : 4), over a bridge (80 ft. long) 
across the Krezentobel, and through a tunnel (200 ft. long), to the "Grand 
Hotel Sonnenberg (2350'; pens. 6-12 fr. ; Eng. Ch. Serv. in summer), with 
a large restaurant, pleasant grounds, and a fine view from the belvedere 
on the roof (lift, 30 c). From the hotel a new road leads to the P/4 M.) 
'"KreuzTidhe (2560'), which affords a magnificent and very picturesque view 
of Pilatus and the Alps from the Sentis to the Titlis and Sustenhorn, with 
the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Sempach, the Rothsee, and the hilly 
landscape to the N. Adjacent are extensive woods with pleasant walks. 
The Hotel Sonnenberg may al9o be reached from the Giitsch on foot in 
35 min., and from Lucerne in 50 min. via the Hirschgraben (PI. B, 4), 
the Kloster-Strasse, and the Sonnenberg-Strasse. 

To the S. roads ascend from Kriens to (1 M.) the chateau of Schavensee 
(1885') and the (2'/4 M.) * Betel- Pension Himmelreich (2264' ; pens. 4>/2 5 fr.), a 
health-resort amid woods, with fine view. — Another road, leading to the 
W. from Kriens, ascends along the Krienbueh to the (2 M.) Renggbach, 
whence a bridle-path leads to the left through wood to (40 min.) Berrgotts- 
uald or Hergiswald (2800"; -Hot. -Pens. Haas, pens. 5-7 fr.), a health-resort 
in a fine situation. Or we may continue to follow the Renggbach road to 
Lehnhof and (4!/2 M.) Eigenthal (3380'), another health-resort (see p. 154; 
thence to Schwarzenberg, V2 hr.). — From Eigenthal a path ascends by 
the Riimligbach past the huts of Buchsteg and Iiothstock, then steeply to 
the left to (l l /2-2 hrs.) the Briindlen-Alp (4985'), with the little Pilatus Lake 
igenerally dry in summer), where, according to a curious tradition, Pontius 
THate drowned himself from remorse. From this point the Widderfeld 
(6817') may be ascended in 1% hr.; and a rough and indistinct path leads 
found the slopes of the Widderfeld and Gemsmattli and over the Eastelen- 
Alp to the (l'/2 hr.) H6tel Klimsenhorn (p. 116). Guide in both cases. 

27. Lake of Lucerne. 

Steamboat in summer 8 times daily between Lucerne and Fliielen in 
2>/4 hrs., express in 2'/4 hrs. (to Hertenstein 35 min., Weggis 45 min., Vitznau 
1, Buochs l'/4, Beckenried l'/s, Gersau ls/4, Treib 2, Brunnen 2 hrs. 5 min., 
Eiitli 2 hrs. 12 min., Sisikon 2 hrs. 20 min., Isleten 2 hrs. 20 min., Bauen 

2 hrs. 25 min., Tells-Platte 21/2, Fliielen 2 3 /i hrs.). The steamers do not all 
touch at Hertenstein, Buochs, Treib, Riitli, Sisikon, and Tells-Platte, 
while Bauen and Isleten are called at twice a day only. Fare to Fliielen 

3 fr. 80 or 2 fr. 70 c; return-tickets available for two days, 5 fr. 30, 
3 fr. 55 c. Those who make some stay should purchase 100 family-tickets 
for 12 l /2 fr. ; immediately on embarking a certain number of these, cor- 

fresponding to the distance to be travelled, are given up. Trunk 40-80 c, 
'including embarkation and landing. Sunday excursion-trips from Lucerne 
to Fliielen and back, first class IV2. second class 1 fr. Most of the steamers 
start from the railway-station of Lucerne, but a few start from the quay 
and then call at the railway-station (comp. p. 94). Good restaurants (dej. 3, 
D. 4 fr.) on board. Tickets are procured at the purser's office on board. 
Time-tables and maps of the lake to be had at the steamboat-offices gratis. 

7* 



100 1I.R.27.- Maps, pp. 98, 108. "WEGGIS. Lake of 

The **Lake of Lucerne (1435'; Vierwaldstatter Me, or 'Lake of 
the Four Forest Cantons', viz. Vri, Schwyz, Unterwalden, and 
Lucerne) is unsurpassed in Switzerland in magnificence of scenery. 
Its beautiful banks are also intimately associated with the traditions 
so graphically depicted by Schiller in his William Tell. The lake is 
nearly cruciform in shape. Length from Lucerne to Fliielen 23 M.; 
width V 2 -2 M.; greatest depth 700'. 

The wind on the lake is apt to change very suddenly. The boatmen 
declare that it blows from a different quarter beyond each promontory. 
The most violent is the Fohn (S. wind), which sometimes makes the Bay 
of TJri dangerous for small boats, and even for steamers. In fine weather 
the Bise (N. wind) usually prevails the whole day. 

Soon after leaving Lucerne the steamer affords a strikingly pic- 
turesque view of the town, with its towers and battlements. To 
the left rises the Rigi, to the right Pilatus, and facing us the 
Biirgenstock, the Buochser Horn, and Stanser Horn. High above 
the lake runs the St. Gotthard Railway (p. 121). To the left of Pila- 
tus, above the hills of Unterwalden, the Wetterhorner (Rosenhorn, 
Mittelhom, Wetterhorn), Schreckhorn, Monch, Eiger, and Jungfrau 
gradually become visible. The small promontory to the left, with a 
pinnacled villa, is the Meggenhorn. In front of it lies Altstad, an 
islet with fragments of an old custom-house. 

Beyond the Meggenhorn the bay of Kussnacht opens to the left, 
and that of Stansstad to the right, and we have now reached the 
centre of the cross ('Kreuztrichter') formed by the lake. In the dis- 
tance to the left lies Kussnacht (p. 118); in the foreground, Neu- 
Habsburg (p. 117). To the right rises the wooded Biirgenstock (p. 11 3). 
From this part of the lake Pilatus (p. 115) is very striking. Its weird 
peaks, seldom free from clouds, form a marked contrast to the Rigi 
opposite, the lower slopes of which are covered with gardens, fruit- 
trees, and houses, and the upper with woods and pastures. 

Beyond the promontory of Tanzenberg, in a small bay to the left, 
is the *H6tel Schloss Tanzenberg-Hertenstein (pens. 8-12 fr. ; a walk 
of 10 min. from the pier, or by boat in 5 min.). Before us, in the 
distance , peeps the double-peaked Scheerhorn (p. 137). Stat. 
Bertenstein (Pens. Hertenstein ; Hot. -Pens. Pilatus, 3 min. to the 
E., pens. 6-7 fr.); then — 

Weggis. — "Hotel-Pension du Lac, R. 2-3, D. 3, S. 2, pens. 5>/2-8 fr- ; 
"Lion d'Ok, R. 2-4, B. 1, D. 3, pens. Vfr-Vh fr.; *H6t.-Pens. SchonaU, 
pens, from 6 fr. ; "Pens. Villa BOhlegg, pens. 5-7 fr. ; "Hot. de la Posts, 
at the pier, R. 2-4, V.. 1, D. 3, S. 2, pens. 6-9 fr. Farther to the W., on a 
lofty site: *Ccrhaus & Pens. Villa Kohler, R 3-8, B. H/2, D. 4, S. 2Vs, 
pens, from 7>/2fr. ; *H6t. Pens. Pakadies, R. 2-3, B. l'/i. D- 3, S. 2, pens. 
t>-8 fr. ; *Pens. Villa Belvedkhe, with pleasant grounds and lake-baths, 
pens. 6-7 fr. ; Pens. Zimmermann-Schurch, with garden, R. 2-3. B. 1. D. 2'/-i 
S. 2, pens. 5-7 fr. ; "Hot-Pens. Rossli, R. 1>/ S -2V2. D. 2'/2, pens. 5-6 fr.; 
•Hot-Pens. Rigi, I!. IV2 21/2, B. 1, D. 2-21/2, S. lVs-2, pens. 5-7 fr.; •Hot- 
Pens. Bellevue, with extensive grounds, batba, etc., R. 2'/2-5, B. l'/«i O. 4, 
pens. 7'/2 11, omnibus 1 fr.; 'Pens. Villa Victoria, pens. 5 7 fr.; Pins. 
Badmen, R. IV2-2V2, D. 2, pens. 4-5 fr. ; Pens. Herbenmatt. On the lake 
are several furnished villas to let. Tavern with 'Rigi wine' in the village. 
— English Church Service in the season. 



Lucerne. VITZNAU. Maps, pp. 98, 108. — II. R. 27. 101 

Weggis, a thriving village in a very sheltered situation, is fre- 
quented as a health-resort. — Bridle-path to the Rigi, see p. 110. 

From Weggis to Greppen (p. 117), road in 3 /t hr„ or footpath (passing 
to the right of the church) in 1 hr. Between these, and reached from the 
schoolhouse of Weggis in '/« hr-> ris es the Rigiblick, a hill overlooking the 
lake (leave of proprietor necessary). — Beautiful walk to the E., by the 
road skirting the lake, to (l^a M.) *H6t.-Pms. Lutzelau (pens. 5-6 fr.) and 
(2V4 M.) Vitznau. 

Near Vitznau we observe on the hillside to the left the railway 
bridge across the Schnurtobel (p. 109); high above it appeaT the 
Hotel Rigi-First (p. 112) and, farther to the right, the Hotel Unter- 
stetten (p. 112). 

Vitznau. — 'Vitznauer Hof , with garden and lake-baths, R. 3-6, 
B. li/a, D. 4, S. 3, board 6'/2 fr. ; s H6t. & Restaurant Rigibahn <fc Pen- 
sion Kohler, near the pier and the Rigi railway-station, with a terrace 
on the lake, R. 2 l /2-4, B. l>/4, D. 3, S. 2'/2, pens. 61/2-8V2 fr. ; s H6t.-Pens. 
Rigi, R. 2'/2 3, D. 3, pens. 5V2-7 fr.; "Hot.-Pens. do Pakc, l h M. to the 
W., with baths and extensive grounds, R. 2i/ 2 -4V2. B. 11/2, D. 31/2, S. 21/2, 
pens. 7-10 fr.; *Hot.-Pens. Alpeneose, R. 2-2y 2 , D. 2>/2-3, pens. 5-6 fr. ; 
Pension Villa Waldheim, pens, from 5 fr. ; 'Pension Zimmermann zum 
Kredz. pens. 5-5'/2 fr. ; Hotel-Pension Kellevue, R. IV2-2, D. 2-3, S. IV2-2, 
pens. 5-6 fr. ; Pens. - Restaurant Unterwtlen, 1 M. to the W. of the 
village, with fine view, pens. 41/2-6 fr. — Flora Alpina Restaurant, on the 
Gersau road, 1 M. to the E. of Vitznau (also a few rooms). 

Vitznau, prettily situated at the W. base of the Vitznauer Stock 
(see below), is the terminus of the Rigi Railway (p. 108). High 
above the village rises the precipitous Rothenfluh, with the Waldis- 
balm, a stalactite grotto 200 yds. long (difficult of access). 

A beautiful road leads from Vitznau via the Obere Nnse (see below ; 
fine virw of the lake) to (3V2 M.) Gersau and past the Kindlismord Chapel 
(p. 103) to (4V2 M.) Brunnen. 

On the S.W. slope of the Vitznauer Stock (bridle-path in l'/4 hr. from 
Vitznau, shady in the early morning) is the finely situated "Hotel-Fens. 
Weissenfluh or Wissifluh (3100 1 ; pens, from 51/2 fr.), a health-resort, with 
beautiful view (finest from the Bliimlismatl, 5 min. to the S.). Pretty walks 
to Aeusser-Urmi (3525'; >/4hr.) ; Ober-Ormi (3740'; Pension, 3i/ 2 fr.; >/2hr.); 
to the top of the Vitznauer Stock (4775' ; 1'/* hr., the last l /2hr. steep); 
*/>osse» (5540' ; 2 hrs.), etc. Descent from Weissenfluh to Gersau 50 min. 
(ascent l'/2 hr. ; path rough in places). 

Beyond Vitznau are two long promontories, called the Nasen 
(noses), apparently terminating the lake, the Obere Nase (1.), a spur 
of the Rigi, the Vntere (r.), of the Burgenstock (p. 113). To the left 
of the Obere Nase the Glarnisch (p. 77) rises above the Pragel. 
Beyond this strait the lake is called the Buochser See, from Buochs 
(*Krone, R. li/ 2 -2y 2 , B. 1, D. 2i/ 2 , S. 2. pens. 41/2-7 fr.; Kreuz- 
gdrten), a village to the right , above which rise the Buochser Horn 
(p. 102) and the E. slopes of the Burgenstock. The village (1637 in- 
hab.) was burned by the French in 1798, on which occasion the painter 
Wyrsch (p. 141) lost his life (monument in the charnel-house). 
Buochs is a pleasant residence in spring and autumn (shady walks). 

Diligence to Starts (p. 141) thrice daily in 3 /< l> r - ( nr walk direct by 
Ermerberg and Wil). Between Buochs and Beckenried (pleasant walk of 
*/4 hr.) tiuge dams control the torrents descending from the Buochser Horn 
and the Schwalmis. 



102 II. R. 27. — Maps, pp. 98,108. BECKENRIED. Lake of 

Next, on the S. bank, — 

Beckenried, or Beggenried (*Sonne, R. 2-4, B. l 1 /^ "D. 3, S. 2, 

pens. 5V 2 -9 fr. ; *Mond, R. 2-3, B. 1, D. 2V 2 -3, pens. 5-7 fr.; 

*Nidwaldner Hof, R. li/ 2 -3, B. 1, D. 2'/ 2 -3, S. 2, pens. 5-7 fr. ; 

Pens. Buhler ; Rossli), where the delegates from the Four Forest 

Cantons used to assemble, is now much frequented in summer. In 

front of the church is a fine old walnut-tree. 

One-horse carriage to Stans 6, two-horse 12 fr.; to Stansstad 8 or 15, 
Alpnach 11 or 18, Seelisherg 13 or 25, Schoneck 6 or 12 fr., and fee. 

From Beckenried to Seelisberg (2>/2 hrs.). The road ascends in 
curves through a wood, past the ( 3 /4 hr.) charmingly situated "Bitel <b 
Curhaus Schoneck (2250'; water and whey-cure; R. IV2-8, D. 4, S. 272, 
pens. 8V2-15 fr. ; S. B. G. H.), to Q/t hr.) the village of Emmeten (2520'; 
'HStel and Curhaus Engel, with garden, pens. 4V2-6 fr-; Schlussel; Post, 
small), a health-resort in a sheltered situation. From the Steingaden (2770'), 
'/1 hr. to the N.E., a fine glimpse of the lake is obtained. A charming 
walk (new path) leads by the picturesque 'Riselten-Schlucht, through which 
rushes the Kohlthalbach, to (50 min.) Schoneck. — Farther on we traverse 
a dale between the Stuizberg and Niederbauen (see below), passing Happlig 
and Lauenen, and reach the saddle above the little Seelisberg Seeli. Thence 
we go on via Geissweg to the (l'/2 hr.) SStel Sonnenberg (p. 103). 

The 'Niederbauen or Seelisberger Kulm (6322'; 3V2hr8.; guide, 6-7 fr., 
unnecessary; path shady till 9 a.m.), a very fine point, is best ascended 
from Emmeten. Near the school-house (2550'; '/'j M. to the E. of the Engel) 
a road ascends to the right (S.) in three somewhat sharp curves and 
then leads through the Kohlthal to (1 hr.) the Grand Alp (3235'). We now 
turn to the left, cross the Kohlthalbach. and follow a steep, winding, but 
well-made footpath through a beautiful wood to the (1 hr.) Hoberg Alp 
(44B5'); in 40 min. more we reach the Niederbauen Alp (5220'; rfmts.), 
whence we ascend over grassy slopes to the (1 hr.) summit. — Another 
route, shadeless and steep but with fine views, begins beyond the bridge 
over the Kohlthalbach (tys M. to the E. of the schoolhouse) and ascends to 
the right. Beyond a group of three houses it ascends in windings through 
pinewood , and traverses the pastures of Frutt to (2'/2 hrs.) the Nieder- 
bauen Alp. — The routes from Beroldingen (p. 103) and the Seelisberg Seeli 
(p. 103; each 3'/2-4 hrs.) are rough and not recommended. — The summit 
commands an imposing and highly picturesque view of the Lake of 
Lucerne from Lucerne to Fliielen, of the Uri-Rothstock, Bristenstock, 
Tddi, Scheerhorn, and Windgellen, and of the Reuss valley as far as 
Amsteg. Le«s of distant view than from the Rigi. — The Oberbauen or 
Bauberg (6960'), another fine point, is ascended from the Niederbauen-Alp 
(see above) in 2 hrs. (guide 8 fr.). A steep descent may be made by the 
Bauberg-Alp to (2'/i hrs.) Isenthal (p. 107). 

The Buochser Horn (5940 1 ) may be ascended in 4'/2 hrs. from Becken- 
ried or Buochs (guide desirable, 5 fr. ; fine view). Descent to (l 1 /* hr.) 
Nieder-Rickenbach (p. 142). 

On the opposite hank, on a fertile strip of land between the 
Vitznauer Stock and the Hochfluh, lies the pretty village of — 

Gersau. — Hotels. *H6t.-Pens. Muller, with garden on the lake, 
R. 3-5, D. 3V2, S. 21/2, pens. 7-10 fr. (depot of the S.B.G.H.); «H6t.-Pens. 
Beau-Sejour, R. IV2-2V2, B. 1, D. 2>/s, pens. 5-6 fr.; Seehof, on the lake, 
'/< Jr. to the E., R. l-n/2, D- 2. pens. 4>/2-6 fr. ; -Hof Gersao, R. li/s-2, 
B. 1, D. 2, pens. 5 6 fr. ; Hot.-Peks. Fluhegg, R. li/ 2 -2. D. 2. S. I1/2, pens. 
41/2-6 fr. ; "Hot -Pens. Rigi, pens, from 5 fr. ; Pension Platten, on the 
new Scheidegg road, 1 M. above Gersan, pens. 4'/2 fr. ; Pension and 
Restaurant Sonne. Furnished Rooms at Mailer's tur Sage and at Waad's. 
— English Church Service at the Hotel Muller. 



Lucerne. SEELISBERG. Maps,pp. 98,108. — II.B.27. 103 

Gersau, in a sheltered site, amidst orchards, -with broad-eaved 
cottages scattered over the hillside, is much visited as a health- 
resort. In the ravine behind it are three silk-factories, and on the 
mountain above is the Rigi-Scheidegg Hotel (p. 112]. 

The ascent of the "Rigi-Hochfluh (5564 1 ), 3-31/2 hrs. from Gersau, via 
the Zihlistock-Alp, is attractive. Last part of the route now improved 
(see p. 113). From the Hochfluh to the Scheidegg, 1V2-2 hrs. — The Vitz- 
nauer Stock (4775') may he ascended in 2Va hrs. from Gersau or Vitznau 
by Ober-Urmi (comp. p. 10L). — From Gersau to (4'/2 M.) Brunnen (see 
below) a pleasant walk by the road on the lake (Axenstrasse). — From 
Gersau to Lowerz (p. 122), 3V4hrs. A new road ascends to (l'/2 br.l Ober- 
Gschwend (3320' ; inn), whence a footpath leads to (}fe hr.) the Gatterli Pats 
(3910'), between the Hochfluh and the Rigi-Scheidegg. Descent to Lowerz, 
1V4 hr. — From Ober-Gschwend to Rigi-Scheidegg (2 hrs.), see p. 113. 

On the bank beyond Gersau is the Kindlismord Chapel. To the E. 
rise the two Myten, at the base of which lies Schwyz (p. 123); nearer 
is the church of Jngenbohl; to the right, the broad Fronalpstock. 

The steamer now crosses to Treib (Inn, rustic; boat to Brunnen, 
l-4pers., 1^2 fr.), in Canton Uri, at the foot of the Sonnenberg, the 
landing-place (telephone) for the village of Seelisberg (2637'; *H6t.- 
Pens. Bellevue, E. 17 2 -3i/ 2 fr., B. 1 fr. 30, D. 3 ft. 25 c, S. 2i/ 2 , 
pens. 6-8 fr. ; Pens. Aschwanden; Pens. Lbwen) on the hill above, 
to which a road leads in l*/2 nr - through the orchards of Folligen 
(omnibus four times daily to Sonnenberg in l l / t hr., up 2, down 
0/2 ft* ; one-horse carr. 5, two-horse 10, to the H6t. Sonnenberg 6 
or 12 fr., and fee of 2 fr.). The direct path ascends to the left 
behind the inn (1 hr. ; stony but shady in part). By the Chapel of 
Maria- Sonnenberg, 12 min. from the church of Seelisberg, is the 
Pension OriMi (5-7 fr.) ; 100 paces farther is the little Hotel Myten- 
stein; and just beyond it is the large *H6tel Sonnenberg (2770'; 
four houses, 400 beds ; K. 21/2-5, B. H /g , D. 5, S. 3, board 7-8 fr. ; 
visitors' tax 2 l / 2 fr. a week ; Engl. Ch. Seiv. in summer), a favourite 
health - resort. The terrace in front commands a beautiful *View 
of the lake of Uri lying far below , with its girdle of mountains 
from the Myten to the Uri-Rothstock. 

Attractive walk to (25 min.) the 'Sehwendifluh or Schwandenfluh (2723'), 
by a path diverging to the left from the Beroldingen road, near the inn 
Zum Schiitzen, 3 min. to the S. of the Hot. Sonnenberg. Striking view from 
the perpendicular rocks, the Teufelsmiinster of Schiller ('Tell', ActIV, Sc. 1). 
— Beautiful view from the Kanzeli (3303'; '/2 hr. to the N.W.; ascent to 
the right at the S. end of the hotel, through wood), over the lake and the 
plain as far as the Weissenstein. — To the S.W. of the hotel lies (1 M.) the 
picturesque little Seelisberger Seeli ('little lake', 2470'; with bath-house, 
50 c.) on the precipitous N.E. side of the Niederbauen (p. 102). 

Walk from Seelisberg to Bauen. We follow the road beyond the hotel 
(finger-post; path to the Schwendifluh to the left) to (*A hr.) the chateau of 
Beroldingen (beautiful view), and descend a steep path, by Wissig, to 0/2 hr.) 
Bauen (Tell, plain). Boat from Bauen to Tellsplatte 2, Riitli 3, Fliielen 4fr. 
(dearer at the 'Tell'). — Path from Seelisberg to the (V2 hr.) Riitli, seep. 105. 

Opposite Treib, on the E. bank, lies the small town of — 

Brunnen. — Hotels. "WaldstItteb Hof, on the lake, with baths, R. 
3-6, dej. 3, D. 4, S. 2V2, pens. 8-13, in spring and autumn 7-10 fr. (con- 
certs in the large entrance -hall); * Hot. -Pens. Aufdekmaur au Paec, 



104 II.R.27. — Maps,pp.98,108. BRDNNEN. Lake of 

>/«E from the lake, B. 2-5, B. 11/2, D. 4, S. 2i/ 2 , pens. 6Vs-10 fr.; »H6t.. 
Pens. Abler, R. 2-4, B. 11/4, D. 3Vs, S. 21/s, pens. 6V*-9V2 fr-i "Hot.- 
Pens. Hirsch, R. 2-3, B. IV4, D. 3, 8. 2 pens. 6-7 fr., both opposite the 
pier; 'Eden Hotel & I'ension, prettily situated on the W. margin of the 
Gii soh, with view-terrace (lift. 10 c, on the Axens'ra'se, between the 
Adler and the Bellevue). R. 3-6, B. I1/2, D. 4, 8. 2»/ 2 , pens. 8-12 fr.; 'Hot.- 
Pens. vox Euw, R. IV22V2, D. 2'/2, pens. 57i-7 f r. ; Hot. -Pens. Bellevue 
(R. from 2, B. 1, D. 3, S. 2, pens. 0-7 fr.) and Hot.-Pens. Mythenstein 
(same prices), both on the Axenstrasse, close to the lake; "Hot.-Pens. 
Gotsch, with fine view, unpretending, R. 2. D. 2'/a. pens. 5 6 fr. ; 'Hot.- 
Pens. ScHWEiztKHOF. with restaurant, R. 2-2V2, B. IV4, D. 3, S. 2'/2, pens. 
5V2-7 fr. ; "Rossi,!, R. 1V«-2i/», B. 1, D. 3, pens. 5-6 fr.; *H6t. Rutli, 
R. IV2-2V2, pens. 5-7 fr. ; Bkunnerhof, all near the quay; Hot. -Pens. Rigi, 
on the Gersau road, R. H/2-2, B. 1, D. 2-2V2 pens. 5-6 fr. ; •Hot.-Pkns. 
Victoria, on the lake, near the Fohnhafen (harbour of refuge), R. 1Vs-3Vji 
B. li/j, D. 3 S. 21/2 pens. 6 10 fr. ; -Pens, do Lac, with lake-baths, at the 
Fohnhafen, R. 11/2-4, B. l>/ 4 , D. 3, S. 2>/-2, pens. 5-7 fr.; -Hot.-Pens. Bella- 
vista, pleasantly situated farther to theW., 131. from Brunnen, R. 2V2-3, 
B. 174 D. 3, S 2, pens. 5-7 fr. ; Pens. Frledheim, on the T-'rmiberg, 1 31. 
to the N. of the lake ; Hot.-Pens. Dkossel, on the lake, R. ly^'/a, >'• 1 fr- i 
Hot. Bahnhof, Tell (well spoken of), Freihof, Sonne, Koskngarten, 
and others, plain (pens. 4-6 fr.)- — Munich beer at the Hit. Bellevue, 
Hit. Schweizerhof , and Hit. Drotsel (with garden); Helvetia, Rickenbacher, 
Bahnhof-Str. — Confectioner, J. Nigg-Aufdermaur, Bahnhof-Str. 

Rowing Boat to Treib and back, with one boatman 1, with two 2 fr.; 
Riitli 2>/2 or 4, Tellsplatte 3 or 6, Riitli and Tellsplatte 5 or 8 fr. — 
Motor Launch (4 seats) to Fliielen 10, Gersau 7, Vitznau 12, Tell's Platte 7, 
Riitli and Tell's PI tte 8, return-fare 4 fr. per hour. 

Baths (warm and lake baths) at the Waldstatter Hof (lake-bath and 
towel, 50 c). — Wood-carvings, photographs, books, newspapers, etc., at 
Leuthold's, by the steamboat-pier. 

Book Depots of the Bibliotheque det Grandt Hotels (p. xviii) at the 
Waldstatter Hof and the Hotels Adler, Axenfels, Fronalp, Stoos, Sonnen- 
berg-Seelisber}£, etc 

English Church Service at the Waldstatter Hof. 

Brunnen, the port of Canton Schwyz, a station on the St. Gott- 
hard Railway (p. 121), and one of the most beautiful places on the 
lake, is partly situated in a flat valley near the mouth of the 
Muota. In the background rise the two Myten. The old Susthaus, 
or goods-magazine, is adorned with quaint frescoes. New Pro- 
testant Church on the Schwyz road , opposite the railway-station. 
Higher up is the nunnery of Ingenbohl (see p. 103). 

The Giitsch (1700'; hotels, see above), a hill behind Brunnen, overlooks 
the two arms of the lake and the pretty valley of Schwyz. Shady walks in 
the environs. The new Olympus Road (' Olymp- Strasse' ) , beginning at the Lee- 
waster near the middle of the village, winds up through the wood, passing 
the (10 min) view-terrace of the Eden Hotel, to the top of this hill. It 
is to be prole nged to Axenfels. 

From Brunnen to Morschach, a good road (shade in the morning) 
ascends in 1 hr. from the Axenstrasse (diligence in summer four times 
daily in V4 hr., 1 fr. ; one-horse carr. 5fr., two-horse 10 fr.). The shady 
footpath which diverges at the O/2 31.) guide-post to the left cuts off a 
long curve. 40 min. "Grand Hotel Axenfels (21U0'; R. 3'/s-8, B. l'/2, 
lunch 3, D. 6, pens. 7>/2-13 fr. ; Engl. Ch. Service), with a glazed prome- 
nade, gardens, park, and tine view. About 5 min. farther on is the 
charmingly situated hamlet of Morschach (2120'; "Hit.-Pens. Frohnalp ■£" 
Curhaus Morschach, R. 2'/a-4»/2, B. lVt, D- 3'/2, S. 2'/z, pens. 6-8 fr. ; 'Pens. 
Betschart, 5Y2 fr. ; Pens. Degentmlm, on a height 230 1 above the village, 
pens. 5-8 fr. ; Hirsch ; Adkr ; Krone). The road forks at the Pens. Bet- 
schart, the right branch leading to the Sloos (p. 105) and via Ober-Bchinen- 



Lucerne. RUTLI. Map, p. 108.— II. R. 27. 105 

buch (p. 84) to (4'/2 M.) Schwyz , while the left branch ascends past the 
*HSt.-Pens. Rutliblick (pens. 5-7 fr. ; fine view) to (12 min.) the Grand Hotel 
Axen stein (2360': burned down in Dec, 1900; now rebuilding and to be 
re-opened in 1902), splendidly situated on the Brdndli, with a magnificent 
'"Survey of both arms of the lake. Large covered promenade and beautiful 
shady grounds close to the hotel, containing numerous erratic blocks and 
interesting traces of glacier-action. Strangers are admitted to the park, 
but if residing at the Hotel Axenfels or at Morschach only by special 
permission. Besides the road, there is a path from the end of the 01ympu3 
Road on the Giitsch to the hotel, for the most part in shade ( 3 ft hr.). 
Adjacent is an English Church (AH Saints). 

The Stoos (4242'), the N. spur of the Fronalp CSdt.-Pens. Stoos, R. 3-5, 
B. l>/2, D.4, S.2'/2, pens. 7-12 fr. ; 'Pens. Balmberg, 5-6 fr.), another good 
point of view (best from the Stooshorn, 5 min. to the N.), with varied 
walks, is reached from Morschach in 2 his. (carr. and pair from Brunnen, 
in 2Vi hrs., 20 fr., there and back 25-30 fr., with one horse 15 fr. ; saddle- 
horse 10, porter for llOlbs. 6 fr. ; gratuity 1 fr.). The road (in shade in 
the morning for most of the way) leads past the ( l /t hr.) inn Zur Schwyzer- 
hShe, with a beautiful view of the valley of Schwyz and the Myten, 
and then through a wood. — The "Fronalpstock (6295'; small "Inn , ten 
beds), l'/j hr. to the 8.W. of the Stoos, reached by a rough path (finger- 
post ; milk at a chalet halfway), affords a magnificent view, hardly inferior 
to that from the Rigi, of the Alps and of the entire Lake of Lucerne. — 
A footpath leads from the Stoos to (i'/i hr.) Ried (p. 84) in the Muota- 
Thal, at first traversing meadows, but beyond the Stoosbach descending in 
steep zigzags through wood to the bridge over the Muota. 

Other excursions from Brunnen: by the St. Gotthard Railway to 
(12 min.) Schwyz - Seewen, and then by boat (in 25 min. from Seewen) 
to the island of Schwanau in the Lake of Lowerz (p. 122); to the Muota- 
Thal as far as the (l 3 /4 hr.) Suvoroff Bridge (p. 84), via Ingenbohl, 
Unter- and Ober-Schonenbuch , or via, Morschach (p. 104), and back on 
the right bank via, Ibach or Schwyz in 2 J /4 hrs. ; by steamboat to Tells- 
platte, walk by the Axenstrasse to Fliielen (shady till 10 a.m.), and return 
by railway ; to the Kindlismord Chapel (p. 103) and Gersau (41/2 M. ; p. 102) ; 
to the Rutli (see below; boats, see p. 104), and thence, or via Treib, to 
Seelisberg (p. 103); ascent of the Rigi (p. 108; 1 day); by the St. Gotthard 
Railway to Goschenen-Andermatt and back (R. 32; 1 day). 

At Brunnen begins the S. arm of the lake, called the Urner See 
or *Lake of TIri. The mountains rise very abruptly, and the lake 
narrows. Lofty peaks, often snow-clad, peep through the gorges at 
intervals, in particular the huge Uri-Rothstock with its glacier. By 
the sharp angle which juts into the lake from the W. bank rises the 
Mytenstein, a rock 80' high, bearing an inscription in memory of 
Schiller, the 'Bard of Tell'. 

About i / i hr. farther on , above the steamboat-station of Rutli, 
is the grassy clearing in the wood called the Rutli. or Grutli (1646'), 
with three springs trickling from an artificial wall, and shaded with 
trees. This spot, with the custodian's house in the old Swiss style 
(refreshments) and pretty grounds, belongs to the Confederation. 
At a fine point of view, 5 min. to the W., is a block of granite with 
medallions of the author (J. G. Krauer, 1792-1845) and the com- 
poser (Jos. Greith, 1798-1869) of the 'Rutlilied'. 

On this spot, on the night of 7th Nov., 1307, thirty-three men, from 
Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden, assembled and swore to drive out their 
oppressors. Tradition relates that the three fountains sprang up on the spot 
where the three confederates, Werner Stauffacher of Steinen in Schwyz, 
Brny an der Balden of Melchthal in Unterwalden , and Walter Fttrst of 



106 U.R.27. — Maps,pp.l08,U2. FLUELEN. Lake of 

Attinghausen in Uri, stood when the oath was taken. — A shaded path as- 
cends in l>/« hr. from the Rutli to the E6lel Sonnenberg (p. 103). Boat from 
Brunnen to the Riltli, gee p. 104 ; pleasant also to row (3-4 fr.) from Trtib. 

On the E. bank of the lake runs the *Axenstrasse, leading from 
Brunnen to (9 M.) Fluelen, of strikingly bold construction, being 
mainly hewn in the rock. It was made by Cantons Uri and Schwyz 
in 1863-65. Below, alongside, or above the road, runs the St. Gott- 
hard Railway (p. 123), skirting the lake in many tunnels and cut- 
tings. The steamer touches at Sisikon (*H6t.-Pens. Vrirothstoch, 
Pens. Axenstrasse, at both pens, from 4^2 or 5 fr.), at the entrance 
to the narrow Riemenstalden-Thal (p. 85). 

From the hamlet of (172 hr.) Riememtalden (3410 1 ; inn) the Rophaien 
(6830'; 2'/2hrs.; fine view of the Lake of Lucerne, best by morning-light) 
is easily ascended. Descent by a path, distinct beyond the Buggisgrat, 
to (2V 4 hrs.) Tell's Chapel or to (3 hrs.) Fluelen. — The "Eossstock (8080"; 
3'/ 2 -4 hrs.), with splendid view, is another easy ascent (comp. p. 124). 
— Theliedemen or Kaiserstock (8255'; 4-472 hrs., with guide) is for experts 
only. — Over the Katzenzagel to Mwtathal, see p. 84. 

Stat. Tell's Platte (Restaurant, with baths, at the landing-place), 
8 min. above which, on the Axenstrasse, is the *H6t.-Pens. Tells- 
platte (1680'; D. 3, pens. 6-8 fr.), with grounds and view. A little to 
the S. of the landing-place (path in 1 min.) is the l Platte\ a ledge 
of rock at the base of the Axenberg , shaded by trees , on which 
stands Tell's Chapel , rebuilt in 1880, and adorned with four fres- 
coes by Stuckelberg of Bale. It is said to have been originally erected 
by Canton Uri in 1388 on the spot where Tell sprang out of Gess- 
ler's boat. On Friday after Ascension Day, when mass is celebrated, 
and a sermon preached, the natives flock to the Platte in their gaily 
decorated boats. Near the chapel the lake is 700' deep. 

The finest part of the Axenstrasse is between the Tellsplatte 
Hotel and Fluelen (2'/oM. ; shady in the forenoon), where it pierces 
the curiously contorted limestone strata of the Axenfluh, 360' above 
the lake, by means of a tunnel. Beyond the chapel, Fluelen ('/ibr. 
by steamer) becomes visible. Scenery very striking. Opposite the 
chapel, on the W. bank, lies the hamlet of Bauen (Tell Inn, 
plain), and, farther on, the dynamite-factory of Isleten, at the mouth 
of the Isenthal (p. 107). 

Fluelen. — Hotels (all second-olass). *Croix Blanche ki Poste, R. 
2-21/2, B. I1/4, d> : j. 21/2, D. 3i/ 2 , pens. 6-7 fr.; 'Teh, R. 2-2»/2, B. V/t, D. 
3 fr. ; 'Adler, R. 11/2-3, B. V/,, dv\. 2'/2, D. 3'/2 fr.; "Stern. R. li/s-2, K. 1, 
D. 21/2, pens. 41/2-6 fr. ; «St. Gotthard, R. iy r 2, B. 1. D. l'/rS, pens. 
41/2-5 fr. , Hibsch, R. IV2-21/2, B. 1, D. li/ 2 -3, pens. 41/2-6 fr.; Ochs, E. 
IV2-2V2, D. 21/2, pens. 5-6 fr. ; Gawbrinus; Fi.uelerhof, all on the lake. — 
"CtmiiAns JIoosBADfpens. 31/2-472 fr.), 1 M. to theS., near a wood, with mineral 
spring and hydropathic treatment. — "Rail. Restaurant (beer-garden). — Batlu 
in the lake, 1/2 M. to the N. of Fluelen. — Omnibus to Altdorf($. 124) 50 c. 

Fluelen is the port of Uri and a station on the St. Gotthard 
Railway (p. 121). Beyond the church is the small chateau of Rudeni, 
v once owned by the Attinghausen family. The Reuss, which falls 
into the lake between Fluelen and Seedorf, has been 'canalised' here 
C/2 hr.'s walk, or x j t hr. by boat, to its influx). 



Lucerne. ISENTHAL. Map, p. 142. — ILR.27. 107 

The Isenthal (see Map, p. 142) may be reached from Fliielen or 
Altdorf on foot in 3 hrs. via. Seedorf (p. 106), by a path skirting the lake 
(new road, 3 M. long, in construction, to be opened in Sept., 1901), and 
ascending to the Kreuzhbhe (2160 1 ), with a picturesque view where the 
path turns to the left into the valley; or by the steamer from Fluelen, 
which touches at Isleten twice daily. The old path ascending hence joins 
the new road at Qfe hr.) the Kreuzhohe. The pleasantest and shortest 
route is by row-boat or sail-boat (l J /2 fr.) from the baths of Fluelen to 
the path from Altdorf along the W. bank (V2 hr.). From Bauen (p. 103) 
a pleasant path, affording splendid views of the lake , ascends round the 
slope of the Scheidegg direct to Isenthal in 2 hrs. — About 1 hr. from 
Isleten we reach the prettily situated village of Isenthal (2550' ; <?<mer\« 
Inn, ten beds, rustic but clean), at the S. base of the precipitous Ober- 
bauen (6960 1 ) , which may be ascended via. the Bauberg-Alp in 3 l /2-4 hrs. 
(recommended to adepts; guide necessary; comp. p. 102). The valley 
divides here into the Grossthal to the right and the Kleinthal to the left. 
Through the Gkossthal, in which lies the Alpine hamlet of ( 3 /« hr.) St. Jakol 
(3235"), we may proceed to the W., passing over the Schonegg Pass (6315'), 
between the Hohe Brisen (7940') and the Kaiserstuhl (7877'), to Ober-Ricken- 
bach and (5'/2 hrs.) Wolfenschiessen (p. 142). A more interesting but also 
more difficult route (guide 18 fr.) leads to the S.W., via the Schonthal 
Glacier and the Rothgratli (8420"), between the Engelberger Rothstock 
and the Masenstock, to (10 hrs.) Engelberg. The Engelberger Rothstock (9250') 
may be ascended without difficulty from the Rothgratli in 1 hr. (comp. 
p. 145). Over the Jochli and the Biihlalp to (47 2 -5 hrs.) Meder-Rickenbach, 
see p. 142. 

Through the Kleinthal (see above) leads the shortest route to the 
summit of the Uri-Rothstock (6-6'/2 hrs.; laborious; guide 20, or with 
descent to Engelberg 30 fr.). A fatiguing path leads to the (2 hrs.) Musen-Alp 
(4885' ; night-quarters in the chalet) ; then a toilsome ascent across two tor- 
rents and along precipices of slate-rock to the upper snow-fields of the Klein- 
thal Glacier, to the E. of the Kesselstock (8455') ; next an ascent in a long 
Curve over the ne've' to the (4'/2 hrs.) arSte separating it from the Blumlisalp 
Glacier (striking view of the Bernese Alps) ; lastly by an obvious path 
over slopes of rubble to the 0/4 hr.) summit of the "TJri-Rothstock (9620 1 )- 
— An easier, but longer, route through the Grossthal (see above, guide 
15 fr.), passing St. Jakob (see above) and the Schloss/elsen , ascends by a 
steep and rough path to the (3 hrs.) Hangbaum-Alp (5660'), grandly situ- 
ated (fine cascades) , where the night is spent (tourist-hut, with bunks, 
sheets, and rugs) ; thence (starting early in the morning) over pastures 
and loose stones, and along the N. edge of the Bliimlisalpfirn to the 
ridge between the Grossthal and Kleinthal ; and lastly up the arete towards 
the W. to the summit (4 hrs. from Hangbaum), which is usually free from 
snow in summer. The mountain-group which culminates in the Uri-Roth- 
stock and the Brunnistock (9683') is, like the Titlis, almost perpendicular 
on the E. and S.E. sides (towards the Gitschen-Thal and Surenen), and is 
composed of gigantic and fantastically contorted limestone rocks. The 'View 
from the summit is exceedingly grand : to the S. the chain of the Alps, from 
the Sentis, Rhatikon, and Bernina on the E. to the Diablerets on theW.; 
at our feet, 8000' below, the Lake of Lucerne and the Schachen-Thal ; to the 
N.E., N., and N.W. the Myten, Rossberg, Rigi, Pilatus, and the Entlebuch 
Mts., the lower hills of N. Switzerland, and the plains of S. Germany. — 
Easy descent by the Blumlisalp Glacier, the Schlossslock - Mcke , and the 
Rothstock-Liicke to the (3 hrs.) Plankenalp Club Hut, and to (3 hrs.) Engel- 
berg (p. 143). 

The Gitschen (8333'), the E. summit of the Uri-Rothstock group, may 
be ascended from Isenthal by adepts in 4-4>/2 hrs. (guide 12 fr.). The view 
is grand and picturesque. We may follow the arete on the N. side of the 
summit to the (IV2 hr.) KUinthalflrn and the (IV2 hr.) Uri-Rothstock (see 
above). 



108 



28. The Rigi. 



The mountain Railways which ascend from Vitznau and Arth are now 
used by most visitors to this famous point of view. The trip may easily 
be made from Lucerne or Zurich in one day (circular tickets good for 
3 days, 13 fr. 50, 10 fr. 25 c.). The lines are on the rack-and-pinion system. 
Between the rails run two others connected by cross-bars, on which 
works a cog-wheel under the engine. The latter is always placed below 
the passenger-car. Maximum gradient of the Vitznau line 1:4, of the 
Arth line 1 : 5. The average speed is 4-6 M. per hour. 

The Footpaths to the top of the Eigi are now little used , but the 
Descent to Weggis (2-272 hrs. ; see p. 110) is recommended. 

Hotels. On the Kulm (p. ill), 'Schreibek's Kigi-Kulm Hotels (three 
houses, the two higher and older being now dependances of the lowest; 
Restaurant on the groundfloor of the last, Beer and Wine Room in the middle 
one), R. 4-7, dej. 4, D. 5, pens. 12-14 fr. — On the Rigi-Staffel (p. 109), where 
all the routes converge, 7* h r - below the Kulm: 'Hot. -Pens. Rigi-Staffel, 
R. 3-3Vs, D. 4, S. 3, pens. 77 2 -9 fr.; Hotel Felchlin, R. 1Vs-2V*, D. 2»/2, 
pens, from 5 fr. ; Hotel Rigibahn, R. 172-2 fr., B. 1 fr. 30 c, D. 272 fr., 
both immediately above the station. — The'CoBHAUS Rigi-Kaltbad (p. 109), 
72 hr. below the Staffel, to the W., is a large, first-class establishment (R. 
from 3'/2, D. 5, 8. 4, pens, from 10 fr., in June and September from 9 fr.; 
covered promenade; hot and cold baths; Engl. Church Service; chaises-a- 
porteurs at the station). 'Hotel-Pens. Belle vue, below stat. Kaltbad, R. 172-2, 
B. I1/2, D. 4, S. 3, pens. 8-10 fr. — 'Hotel -Pens. Rigi-First, on the Scheid- 
egg railway (p. 112) , '/< hr. from the Kaltbad and 10 min. from stat. 
Wblfertschen-First (p. 110), pleasant for some stay, R. 3-8. D. 41/2, S. 3'/2, 
pens, from 9 fr. (depot of the S.B.G.H.). — 'Sonne, R. H/2-2, B. 1, L>. &/,, 
pens. 5V2-7 fr-; 'Schwert, R. 2-3, B. IV2, D. 3, S. 21/2, pens. 5>/2-7 fr., both 
by the Klbsterli (p. 110). — Hotel des Alpes, between the Klosterli and the 
Staffel, pens. 472-6 fr. — Hot -Pens. Rigi-Felsenthoe (p. 110), 10 min. 
from stat. Romiti-Felsenthor (p. 109), pens. 572-772 fr. ; Coranstalt & Pension 
Gbubisbalm, 10 min. from stat. Freibergen (see p. 109), pens, from 5'/2 fr. 
— Hot. -Pens. Rigi-Untekstetten, near stat. Unterstetten (p. 112), plain, 
R. IV2-2, pens. 5-6 fr. — "Cdkhaus Rigi-Scheidegg (p. 112), R. 372-7, 
B. I1/4, D. 4, 8. 2'/2, pens, from 8 fr. (Engl. Ch. Service). 

The **Eigi (5905', or 4470' above the Lake of Lucerne), a moun- 
tain group about 25 M. in circuit, lying between the lakes of Lucerne, 
Zug, and Lowerz, consists chiefly of conglomerate (p. 122), while 
the N. and W. sides belong to the miocene formation. The N. side 
is abrupt, but the S. side consists of broad terraces and gentle slopes, 
covered with pastures which support some 4000 head of cattle, and 
planted below with fig, chestnut, and almond trees. Owing to its 
isolation, the Rigi commands a panorama 300 M. in circumference, 
unsurpassed for beauty in Switzerland. The mountain was known 
to a few travellers in the 18th cent., but it was not till after the 
peace of 1815 that it became a resort of tourists. In 1816 a modest 
inn was erected on the Kulm by subscription, and in 1848 this was 
superseded by the oldest of the houses on the summit. Since then 
many inns have sprung up on other parts of the hill, and the Rigi 
is now one of the most popular of Swiss ri-sorts. 

Feom Vitznau to thk Rigi-Kclm, 4'/2 M., Mountain Railwav 
in 1 hr. 14 min., fare 7 fr. (to Kaltbad 47 2 , Staffel 6 fr.) ; descent in 
the same time, fare 372 fr. ; 10 lbs. of luggage free. First-class return- 
tickets from Lucerne to the Rigi via, Vitznau 1372 fr. ; Sunday tickets 6'/» fr- 
Return-tickets give no alternative return-route. Subscription-ticket9 30 
per cent cheaper. 




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Kaltbad, RIGJ. 77. Route 25. 109 

Vitenau (1443'), see p. 101. The station (buffet) is at the quay. 
The train (views to the left) ascends gradually through the village 
(1 : 15), and afterwards more rapidly (1 : 4) over wooded meadows. 
A *View of the lake is soon disclosed, grandeT as we ascend. Oppo- 
site first appears the dark Biirgenstock, then the Stanser Horn, 
Pilatus, and Lucerne. Farther up, the Alps of Uri, Engelberg, and 
Bern peer above the lower hills. The train (20 min. after starting) 
goes through a tunnel 73 yds. long, crosses the Schnurtobel, or ravine 
of the Orubisbach, 75' deep, by a bridge borne by five iron pillars, 
and soon reaches the station of Grubisbalm, near the Curanstalt of 
that name (p. 108). Beyond the watering and passing station of 
(l*/2 M.) Freibergen (3365') the line is double. 2i/ 4 M. Romiti- 
Felsenthor (3955'; comp. p. 108) and (48 min. from Vitznau) — 

2 3 / 4 M. Bigi-Kaltbad (4730'); to the left is the large Curhaus 
(p. 108), with its covered promenade, on a sheltered plateau. 

A path leads through a gap in the rock, to the left of the Curhaus, to 
(5 min.) St. Michael's Chapel, the walls of which are covered with numerous 
votive tablets. One of those on the left records that two pious sisters 
sought refuge here from the persecutions of a governor of the district in 
the time of King Albert, and built the chapel. The spring (42° Fahr.) 
which bubbles from the rock adjoining the chapel was formerly called 
the 'Schwesternborn'. 

A level path among the conglomerate blocks near the chapel, after- 
wards traversing park-like grounds, leads to the (1/4 hr.) 'Kftnzeli (4820'), a 
pavilion on a projecting rock, which commands a superb view of the 
snow-mountains, and of the plain towards the N. with its numerous lakes, 
similar to that from the Staffel, but with a more picturesque foreground. 
— A path leads hence to the Staffel in the same time as from the Kalt- 
bad (50 min.), ascending to the right as far as the point where the S. part 
of the Lake of Lucerne becomes visible, and following the crest of the 
mountain until it joins the path from the Kaltbad, at the (Vi hr.) Staffelhoue, 

Railway from the Kaltbad to the Scheidegg, see p. 112. 

In 5 min. more the train reaches (3 M.) Staff elhohe (5090'), where 
the view towards the W. and N. is suddenly disclosed. It then 
ascends to the left, round the Rigi-Rothstock, in 8 min. to (3 3 /4 M.) 
Rigi-Staffel (5270'), the junction of the Arth line (p. 110). 

The 'Rigi-Rothstock (5460'), l /, hr. to the S.W. (direct path from the 
Kaltbad 35 min.), affords a very picturesque survey of the central part of 
the Lake of Lucerne, which is not visible from the Kulm. A clear view 
is often enjoyed from this point while the Kulm is in fog. The sunset 
is said to be finer from the Rothstock than from the Kulm, but the sunrise 
should be witnessed from the latter. 

The railway (here parallel with the Arth line) now ascends steeply 
to the Kulm (in 7 min. ; a walk of l /% h r 0i skirting the precipices on 
the N. side of the hill. 47 2 M. Station Rigi-Kulm (5740'), see p. HI. 
From Arth- Gold au to the Rigi-Ktjlm, 5'/3 M., Mountain Rail- 
way in I1/4 hr. , fares 10 fr. 80, 7 fr. 20 c. (to the Klosterli 4 fr. 80. Staffel 
6 fr. 40 c.)-, descent in the same time, 5 fr. 40, 3 fr. 60 c; return-tickets 
14 fr. 60, 9 fr. 75 c; Sunday and afternoon excursion-tickets 9fr., 6fr; 
lOlbs. of luggage free. Subscription-tickets 30 per cent cheaper. — Steam- 
tramway from Arth to Arth-Goldau in </t hr. (fare 30 c, return-fare 50 c), 
>ee p. 117; the terminus at Arth-Goldau adjoins the Gotthard station. 

Arth-Ooldau (1725' '; *Rail. Restaurant), a station on the St. Gott- 
hard line, and the junction of the lines Zug-Goldau (p. 116) and 



110 II.R.28. — Map,p.l08. RIGI. Klosterli. 

Wadenswil-Einsiedeln-Goldau (p. 121), see p. 122. The station of 
the Rigi railway is about 100 yds. to the W. of the main St. Gotthard 
station ; travellers ascend from the road by a flight of steps to the 
ticket-office and waiting-rooms. The Rigi line (seats should be 
secured on the right) crosses the Gotthard railway, traverses part of 
the scene of the Goldau landslip (p. 122), and curves to the W.; it 
then ascends more rapidly, at the foot of the Soheidegg, to (l 1 /* M.) 
stat. Krabel (2513'). Farther on, ascending 1' in 5', we skirt the 
precipitous Krabelwand, and obtain a fine view of the valley and 
lake of Lowerz, with the island of Schwanau, the Myten near Schwyz, 
the Rossberg, with the scene of the great landslip, and the Lake of 
Zug. Beyond the Bothenfluh Tunnel we are carried through a fine 
wooded valley, and across the Rothenfluhbach , to the (l 3 /4 M.) 
passing-station Fruttli (3730'). Still ascending rapidly , the train 
traverses the Pfedernwald, crossas the Dossenbach and (beyond the 
Pfedemwald Tunnet) the Sehildbach, and reaches (3'/2 M. ; 52 min. 
from Arth-Goldau) — 

33/4 M. Bigi-Klosterli (4320' ; hotels, p . 108), in a basin enclosed 
by the Rigi-Kulm, Rothstock, and First. The 'Klosterli' is a small 
Capuchin monastery, with the chapel of Maria zum Schnee, built 
in 1712 , and much visited by pilgrims , especially on 5th Aug. 
and 6th Sept. ; on Sundays there is mass with a sermon for the 
herdsmen. This spot has no view, but is sheltered, and the air is 
often clear while the Kulm, Staffel, and Scheidegg are shrouded in 
mist. Walk from the Klosterli to the Rigi-First 20 min., to Unter- 
stetten l /% hr., to the Staffel, the Rothstock, or the Schild %, to the 
Dossen or Kulm l 1 ^ hr., to the Scheidegg l 1 ^ hr. 

From (41/4 M.) Wolfertschen -First (4865') a nearly level road 
leads in 10 min. to the Hotel Rigi-First (pp. 108, 112). 

At (43/ 4 M.) stat. Rigi-Staffel (p. 109) a striking *View is sud- 
denly disclosed to the W. and N. To the (5'/3 M.) Rigi-Kulm, see 
p. 109. 

Foot and Bridle Paths to the Rigi (comp. p. 108). From Weggis (p. 100) 
a bridle-path (3Va hrs.), which cannot be missed (finger-post 5 min. from 
the landing-place), winds at first through productive orchards. It crossei 
the track of a mud-stream which descended from the mountain in 1795, 
taking a fortnight to reach the lake. 50 min. Senliberg Reitaurant (2643') ; 
25 min. Heiligkreuz-Capelle (3150'); '/» nr - ' BSlel- Pension Feltenthor (p. 103), 
near the Hochstein or Kasbissen, an arch formed of huge masses of con- 
glomerate. (Stat. Romiti, higher up, p. 109.) The path runs parallel to 
the railway part of the way. '/4 h r - Kallbad, p. 109. This route com- 
mands beautiful views and is recommended for the descent (comp. p. 108). 

From Kossnacht (p. 118), 3 l /« hrs., bridle-path. From the Tell Foun- 
tain, in the middle of the village, a lane to the E. leads to a finger-post in- 
dicating the good path to the (l'/shr.) Vordere Seeboden-Alp (3372' 5 *H6t.- 
Pens. Seebodenalp, pens. 5-7 fr.), a splendid point of view. Then (5 min.) 
our path unites with those from Immensee and Tell's Chapel. Lastly a 
steep zigzag ascent, partly through wood, to the (l'/4 hr.) Rigi-Staffel (p. 109). 

From Goldad (p. 122), 3V2 hrs., an excellent bridle-path. Opposite 
the Russli, helow the chapel, we diverge to the right from the Arth and 
fcjehwyz road, and ascend to the left of the Aa through meadows, pine- 



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Kulm. RIGJ. Map,p.l08.—II.R.28. HI 

wood, and rocky debris, by steps at places. To the left, the precipitous 
Rothfluh (5233'). 1 hr. Untere Dachli (3083' ; Inn) ; good retrospect of the 
valley of Goldau, Lake Lowerz, and the Myten of Schwyz. By the ad- 
jacent cross begin the thirteen stations or oratories which lead to the 
chapel of Our Lady of the Snow, near the Klosterli. At (20 min.) the Obere 
Dachli, with its fresh spring, the wood is quitted; on the opposite side 
of the valley runs the railway. The second half of the route is easier. 
10 min. Malchus-Kapelle , the 8th station; 'fa hr. Klosterli (see p. 110); 
thence to the Rigi-Stafflel (p. 109) 40 min., to the First 20 min. (p. 112). 

The Rigi-Kulm (5905'), the highest and northernmost point of 
the Rigi, descends abruptly on the N. to the Lake of Zug, while on 
the S.W. side it joins that part of the mountain which encloses the 
basin of the Klosterli and extends to the Scheidegg. At the top 
rises a wooden belvedere. The hotels (p. 108) stand about 100' 
below the summit, sheltered from the W. and N. winds. 

The Kulm almost always presents a busy scene, especially in 
the morning and evening. The light-effects are finest just before 
sunset, but on hot days the higher mountains are often shrouded 
in clouds. The early morning offers a better guarantee for a clear 
view. Half-an-hour before sunrise the alp-horn sounds the reveille. 
All is at once noise and bustle ; the crowded hotels are for the 
nonce without a tenant; and the summit is thronged with an eager 
multitude, enveloped in all manner of wraps. 

A faint streak in the E., gradually paling the brightness of the 
stars, heralds the birth of day. This insensibly changes to a band 
of gold on the horizon ; each lofty peak becomes tinged with a roseate 
blush ; the shadows between the Rigi and the horizon melt away ; 
forests, lakes, hills, towns, and villages are revealed; all is grey 
and cold, until the sun bursts from behind the mountains in all 
his majesty, flooding the superb landscape with light and warmth. 

■"View. The first object that absorbs our attention is the stupend- 
dous range of the snow-clad Alps, 120 M. in length (comp. the Panorama). 
The chain begins in the far E. with the Sentis in Canton Appenzell, over 
or near which the first rays of the rising sun appear in summer. This 
is adjoined by the huge snowy crest of the Qldrnisch; then, the Todi, in 
front of which are the Clariden, and to the right the double peak of the 
Scheerhom; next, the broad Windgelle, and the pyramid of the Bristenstock, 
on the St. Gotthard route; then the Brunnistock and the Uri-Rothstock side 
by side; next, the broad Schlossberg and the serrated Spannorter, and more 
to the right the Titlis, easily recognised by its vast mantle of snow. The 
eye next travels to the Bernese Alps , crowning the landscape with their 
majestic peaks. To the extreme left is the Finsteraarhorn, next to it the 
Lauteraarlwrn and the Schreckhorn, the Wetterh&rner (Rosenhom, Mittelhom, 
and Wetterhom), the broad Monch, the sombre Eiger, and (behind, to the 
right) the Jungfrau with the Silberhorn. To the W. tower the jagged peaks 
of Pilatus, the extreme outpost of the Alps in this direction. — Towards 
the North we survey the entire Lake of Zug, with the villages of Zug, 
Cham, Risch, Walchwil, and Arth. To the left of Lake Zug, on the ridge 
between Immensee and Kiissnacht, stands TelVs Chapel; then, separated 
from Lake Zug by a narrow atrip of land, the Kussnucht Bay of the Lake 
of Lucerne; more to the W., Lucerne with its battlements and towers, at 
the head of its bay. Beyond Lucerne is seen the hilly district of the 
cantons of Lucerne and Aargau, dotted with villages and intersected by 
the Emme and the Revss. More distant are the lakes of Sempach, Baldegg, 
and Hallwil. — To the West and Hokth-Wesx the horizon is bounded 



112 //. R. 28. — Mop. p. Kjfi. RIGI. 

by the Jura Ma. , above which peep several of the Vusges. — To tbe 
North, but to the left of the Lake of Zug, in the distance, rises the 
Hapzburg ; farther off is the Black Forest. Beyond Lake Zug is seen the 
crest of the Albit with the I'ellibcrg, which nearly conceals the Like of 
Zurich; ihe Inn? cantonal hospital and the cathedral of Zurich are, how- 
ever, visible, with the large new Hotel Dolder above them. (In the horizon 
rise the b;saliic cones of the Holigau. — To the East is the Roisberg, tho 
S. slope of which was the scene of the lerrible Goldau landslip (p. 122). 
Beyond its N. slope we get a glimpse of the Lake of yL'geri. In the valley 
lie the Lake of Luweri., and the town of Schwyz, at the foot of the two 
bald Mijten, overtopped by the imposing Glamisch (p. 111). — To the 
Sih;th-East and Sooth the different hei-hts of the l.'igi form the fore- 
ground: the Hochfluh. iicheidegg, JJosseti, and Sclt'ld. To the left of the Schild 
part ot the Lake of Lucerne is seen near Beckenried, and to the right the 
Bay of Btuchs, with the Buoctiser Bom above it; more to the right the 
Stanser Horn with Starts at its base ; nearer, the less lofty Biirgenstock and 
the JUgi-Bo'hstock. Beyond these, to the left, is the Lake of Sarnen, amid 
forest ; to the right, the Bay of Alpnach, separated from the Lake of Lucerne 
by the Lopperberg, a spur of Pilatus. 

For a quarter of an hour before and after sunrise the view is 
clearest; at a later hour the mists form into clouds, which often 
completely shroud the Kulm. But even the mists possess a certain 
charm, surging in the depths of the valleys, and struggling against 
the rays of the sun. The lights and shades, ever varying, are 
also a source of constant interest. One whole day at least should 
be devoted to the Eigi. A visit may also be paid (on foot or by rail) 
to the Staffel (p. 109") and the Rothstock (p. 109), the Kaltbad 
(p. 109) and the Kanzeli (p. 109), the Klosterli (p. 110), or the 
Scheidegg (see below). 

As the temperature often vaTies 40-50° within 24 hours, wraps should 
not be forgotten. During the Fohn, or S. wind, the Alps seem to draw 
nearer, their outlines become more delinite, their tints warmer; and 
during a W. wind the Jura Mts. present a similar appearance. These 
phenomena portend rain. 

Fbom the Kaltbad to the Rigi-Scheidegg. — 4>/4 M. Railway 
(ordinary line) in 40 min. ; fare 2 fr. 50, there and back 3 fr. 60 c. 

Rigi-Kaltbad (4720'), see p. 109. The railway skirts the S. 
slope of the Rothstock, being hewn in the rock the greater part 
of the way, and ascends gradually to (!/ 2 M.) Rigi- First (4795'; 
*Hotel, see p. 108), which commands a superb view of the Lake of 
Lucerne, the Uri and Unterwalden Mts., and the Bernese Alps 
(road in 10 min. to Wblftrtschen station, p. 110). The train des- 
cribes a wide curve round the N. slopes of the Schild (5088'; 
20 min. from the Hotel Rigi -First), affording a pleasant view, 
towards the K., of the Myten, the Glamisch, and the Alps of Appen- 
zell. Beyond (l 3 /4 M.) stat. Unterstetten [hotel, see p. lOi) we 
traverse the saddle of the hill and cross a bridge, with a view to 
the N. and S. We pass through the Weissenegg Tunnel, cross the 
Dossentobel by a viaduct, and follow the ridge connecting the Dossen 
with the Scheidegg (view towards the S.) to Unter-Dossen. 

4 1/ 4 M. Rigi-Scheidegg, 190' below the *Hotel # Curhaus (5462' ; 
p. 10S). The view hence is less extensive than from the Kulm, but 



BURGENSTOCK. Maps, pp. 98, 108. — //. R. 29. 113 

it embraces the chief mountains and some points not visible from 
the Kulm (view-tower 70'; panorama at the hotel). The plateau 
of the Scheidegg, 1 M. long, affords a pleasant walk, which may be 
prolonged by the 'Seeweg' on the N. slope of the Dossen as far as 
Unterstetten. The Dossen (5540' ; see below), a splendid point of 
view, is 3 / 4 hr. distant. 

The '-Hochfluh (5575') may be ascended in f/2-2 hrs. from the Scheidegg, 
by a new path which follows the ridge, passing the Gdtterli (pass from 
Gersau to Lowerz ; p. 103) and Scharleggli (4625'). In the couloir, 011 the 
N.W. side of the summit, an almost perpendicular iron ladder , 80" high, 
must be ascended (wire-railing; steady head indispensable). This inter- 
esting ascent affords a most picturesque view of the Lake of TJri and of 
the Alps of Uri, Schwyz, and Glarus. The older route (2 l /2-3 hrs.), cross- 
ing the saddle towards the Zihlistock Alp, and ascending among the rocks 
on the S. side, has also been improved, and is preferable to the route 
on the "$. side (see p. 103). 

Paths to the Scheidegg. From Gebsac (p. 102) a new road ascends via. 
(lVshr.) Ober-Gschwend (p. 103) to the ( 3 /4 hr.) Alp Obermatt 1 (4160'), whence 
a footpath leads to (l'/4 hr.) Rigi-Scheidegg. 

Feoh the Klosteeli (p. 110) a bridle-path (l'/s hr.) ascends to the 
O/2 hr.) Hdtel Rigi- Unterstetten (p. 112), situated on the saddle between 
the Schilt and Dossen (5540'). The latter, ascended from the Hotel Unter- 
stetten in 40 toin., commands the whole of the Lake of Lucerne and Canton 
Unterwalden. Descent via, Unterdossen to Scheidegg in 40 minutes. 



29. From Lucerne to Alpnachstad. Pilatus. 

Bednig Railway from Lucerne to (8V2 M.) Alpnachstad in 27-32 min., 
(1 fr. 40 c, 1 fr., 70 c. ; return-tickets 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15 c.) ; see p. 146. 

— Steamboat 9 times daily in 3 /i - l>/2 hr. (6 times via. Kehrsiten, thrice 
via, Hergiswil, twice direct via, Stansstad), connecting at Alpnachstad with 
the Briinig and Pilatus Railways. Passengers with through-tickets may travel 
as far as Alpnachstad either by the Briinig Railway or by the steamboat. — 
The ascent by the Pilatus Railway (p. 115) takes 1 hr. 25 min., the descent 
1 hr. 20 min. ; fares, up 10, down 6 fr. ; return-fare for the first and the 
last train 12 fr.; combined tickets for railway and hotel (including R., D., 
k B.) 25 fr., recommended; Sunday tickets, valid in June-Sept, only for the 
first and second trains (return by any train) 9 fr. (from Lucerne 10 fr.). 

The Bb.unig Railway to Alpnachstad, via Hergiswil, see p. 146. 

— The Steamboat steers towards the 'Kreuztrichter' (p. 100), 
skirting the W. bank and passing the Villa Tribschen (memorial 
tablet to Richard "Wagner, who lived here in 1866-72), the Pension 
Stutz (pens. § x li-1 fr.), the stations of St. Niklausen (with the 
Chapel of St. Nikolaus~) and Kastanienbaum (*Pension & Restaurant, 
with garden, pens. 5-7 fr.). It then enters the bay of Stansstad. 
To the left rises the bold Burgenstock, at the N.E. angle of which 
lies the station of Kehrsiten-Burgenstock (restaurant). 

A Wiee-Rope Railway ascends the 'Biirgenstock (2870') from Kehr- 
siten in 1 / i hr. (fares, up IV2, 1 fr.; down 1 fr., 50 a), a distance of 1025 yds.; 
average gradient 45 : 100. The motive power is electricity, which is also 
utilised for pumping water and for lighting. At the top of the railway 
(H2Cf above the level of the lake) is the Railway Restaurant (Munich beer), 
with terrace, beside which are the "Park Hotel (R. 4-8, pens, from 8V2 fr.) 
and "Restaurant Helvetia; 5 min. farther on is the Hotel-Pension Waldheim (R. 
from 2, B. 1, D. 2-3, pens, from 7 fr.. well spoken of) ; 3 min. to the S. of the 
Helvetia is the large "Hotel-Pension Biirgenstock (R. 3'/2-9, B. l'/a, dej. 4, 

Baedekee, Switzerland. 19th Edition. 8 



114 II. R.2,4. — Map, p. 99. STANSSTAD. 

D. 4'/2, board T'/afr. ; resident physician; Engl. Ch. Service), a favourite 
health-resort, with extensive and shady grounds (visitors' tax 2 l ,2 fr. per 
week). The hotel and several points near it command beautiful views of the 
lakes of Lucerne, Zug, Sempach, and Baldegg, the Eigi, etc. A good path 
leads to the S.E. via. the Trogen Dairy to the O/2 hr.) Honegg (2906'; "Re- 
staurant in summer), which commands a view of the central part of the 
Lake of Lucerne, not visible from the hotel. Another path ascends through 
wood to the N.E. to the (3/4 hr.) 'Hammet sen wand (3713'), the summit 
of the Biirgenstock, which descends abruptly to the Lake of Lucerne: 
striking view of the greater part of the lake, of the lakes of Sarnen, 
Sempach, Baldegg, Hallwil, and Zug, of the Rigi, Pilatus, Myten, Weissen- 
stein, of the Alps of Glarus and Unterwalden, and part of the Bernese 
Alps (panorama 50 c). An easy descent leads via Obbiirgen (Fliieler's Inn, 
plain) to (l 3 /4 hr.) Stansitad (see below), where we may take the steamer 
for Lucerne, or the railway to Engelbirg. The footpath to Buochs, 
diverging to the right from the Hmegg pith, is not recommended. 

To the right the promontory of Spissenegg juts into the lake 
and forms a bay extending N. to Winkel. The steamer calls at Kehr- 
siten-Dorf (ZurKaplanei) and then steers S.W. to Hergiswil(*H6t.- 
Pens. Rbssli, R. l'/2-3, B. 1, D. 2-3, pens. 5-8 fr. ; Pens. Pilatus, 
pens. 5-6 fr.; Hot.-Pens. Friedheim, 4 1 / 2 -6fr. ; Pens. Riltli , S 1 ^- 
4 fr.), at the foot of Pilatus (see p. 115"); thence again to the E. to 
Stansstad (1445'; Hotel Winkelried, It. 2-3, B. I1/4, D. 31/2. S. 2</ 2 , 
pens, from 5 fr. ; Freienhof, R. l 1 /^, D. 2, pens. 4-6 fr., well 
spoken of; Rossli; SchliisseV), the 'harbour of Stans'. The square 
pinnacled Schnitz-Thurm was erected by the Swiss in 1308 to vin- 
dicate their newly-won independence. 

Electric Tramway from Stansstad to Slant, and cable-line thence to the 
top of the "Stanser Horn, see p. 141. — From Stans to Engelberg, see B. 36. 

Walk fkom Stansstad to Saknen, S 1 /; M The path skirts the lake for 
a short way, enters the Kotzloch, and at Mlweg ('Inn), 2 M. from Stans- 
stad, joins the Stans and Sarnen Road. At Allweg are a chapel in memory 
of Struthin of Winkelried, the dragon-slayer, and an obelisk 13' high, 
erected in 1900 in remembrance of the desperate struggle of the people of 
Nidwald against the French i 1 1 79S. This road leads past the W base 
of the Stanser Horn (p. 141), and by Rottren to (2 M.) St. Jalo'j, a village 
with an old church, then across the Mehlbach and through the Kern- 
wald to (3 M.) Kerns and (IV2 M.) Sarnen (p. 147). 

The Lopperberg, the E. spur of Pilatus, extends far into the lake. 
At its base runs the Lucerne and Alpnach road, while the Brunig 
railway (p. 146) pierces the hill by a tunnel. The brook oppo- 
site, which falls into the lake at Stansstad, has further narrowed the 
channel between the Lake of Lucerne and the Lake of Alpnach with 
its deposits, and the strait is now crossed by an embankment and 
a swing-bridge (Acheregg-Briicke), which is opened for the passage 
of steamers. Within the bay of Alpnach rises the Rotzberg (2200'), 
crowned by a ruined castle (ascent from the Rotzloch 3 / 4 hr. ; view). 
The hill is separated from the Plattiberg by the Rotzloch, a narrow 
ravine, with waterfalls. Portland cement factories (dust unpleasant). 
On the lake is the Hotel-Pension Rotzloch , with a sulphur-spring 
and grounds (pens. 4-5 fr.). 

At the S.W. angle of the Lake of Alpnach lies Alpnachstad 
(1443'; *Mt. Pilatus, R. 2-31/2 B. lt/ 2 , D. 3i/g-i, pens. 6-8 fr., 



PILATUS. Map, p. 99. — U.S. 29. 115 

with veranda and garden ; Rossli, moderate ; Stern, plain), a station 
of the Briinig Railway and the starting-point of the Pilatus Railway. 

*Pilatus (6995'), the lofty mountain to the S.W. of Lucerne, 
rises boldly in a rugged and imposing mass, almost isolated from the 
surrounding heights. The W. and N. portions belong to the canton 
of Lucerne, the E. and S. to Unterwalden. The lower slopes are 
clothed with beautiful pastures and forests, while the upper paTt 
consists of wild and serrated cliffs, from which its ancient name 
Fractus Mons (broken mountain) is derived. The names 'Fracmont', 
'Frakmund', have in later times been occasionally applied to it, but 
the name Pilatus (perhaps from the mediaeval 'Mons Pileatus', the 
hatted mountain) came into general use about the close of the 18th 
century. The summit is generally free from clouds and fog in the 
evening and early morning, but is apt to be shrouded at midday. It 
is, therefore, advisable to spend the night on the top (prices, etc., 
see below and p. 113). The flora is very rich (nearly 500 species). 

The names of the different peaks from W. to E. are the Mittaggilpfi 
or Gnepf stein (6290 1 ), the Rothendossen (5833'), the Widderfeld (6817', the 
wildest), the Tomlishorn (6995', the highest), the Gemsmdttli (6732'); to 
the S. the Matthorn (6693'); to the N. the Klimsenhorn (6265', which, seen 
from Lucerne, is the farthest W.); in the centre the Oberhaupt (6920'), 
then the Esel (6965', the most frequently ascended), and lastly the Steigli- 
Egg (6485'). 

The Pilatus Railway (fares, etc., see p. 113; best views to the right), 
constructed in 1886-88 hy Col. Locher of Zurich, is nearly 3 M. long, with 
an average gradient of 42 : 100, and a maximum gradient of 48 : 100. The 
line rests throughout on a substructure of massive granite blocks and 
slabs, to which an upper framework of iron and steel is securely fastened 
with huge screws. The toothed rail haa vertical teeth on both sides, into 
which two pairs of toothed wheels attached to the train work horizontally. 
The engine and the passenger- carriage (32 seats) form a single car with 
two axles. 

The railway begins near Hotel Pilatus (1443' ; see p. 114), and 
at once ascends, traversing orchards and afterwards wood. 21 min. 
Wolfort (2985'), a watering-station, beyond which the train crosses 
the gorge of the Wolfort ; fine view of the Lake of Alpnach to the 
right. We enter the Wolfort Tunnel (48 yds.) and are carried 
along the stony slope of the Risleten, the most difficult portion of 
the line to construct (gradient 48: 100). Then through the Lower 
(56 yds.) and Upper Spycher Tunnel (106 yds. ; 3773' above the sea- 
level) to the (43 min.) Aemsigen-Alp (4430'), a passing-station with 
pumping- works which force water to the Pilatus-Kulm, 2360' above. 
The train now ascends through wood on the brink of a gorge, crosses 
the Mattalp (to the right the Steigli-Egg; in front the Esel; to 
the left the precipitous Matthorn), turns to the N., and mounts the 
steep rocky slope of the Esel through four tunnels (48, 60, 50, and 
i% yds.). The terminus Pilatuskulm (6790') adjoins the *H6tel 
Pilatuskulm (R. 4-7, B. 2, de"j. 4, D. 5, pens, from 13 fr.; with 
hotel-tickets, p. 113, nearly one-third less; restaurant in the sunk 
floor). The terrace commands a splendid mountain-view. — An 
easy path leads from the station to (6 min.) the top of the *Esel, or 



116 II.R.29.— Maps.pp.99, 98. PILATUS. 

Etzel (6965'), the chief point, with a spacious plateau, enclosed by 
a parapet. The view surpasses that from the Rigi in grandeur and 
variety, the Bernese Alps in particular looming nearer and more 
massive (comp. the panorama). — A similar but less picturesque 
view is that from the *Tomlishorn (6995'), the highest peak of 
Pilatus, to which a good path (varying views), skirting the rocky 
slopes of the Oberhaupt and Tomiishorn and crossing the arete (rail- 
ings; no danger), leads from the Hotel Pilatuskulm in i/ 2 hr. 
(panorama by Imfeld). — Another new path, cut in the rocks, leads 
to the top of the Matthorn (6693' ; from Hotel Pilatuskulm 2 hrs., 
there and back). 

Walkers will find the ascent of Pilatus easiest from Bergiswil (p. 114), 
at its N.W. base. There is a bridle-path to (3-3>/*.jhrs.) the Hotel Klimsen- 
horn, whence a footpath ascends to ( :J /4 hr.) the Pilatuskulm. — In front of 
the church we take the broader path to the left, and after 3 min. turn to 
the right, traversing orchards and meadows, and afterwards wood. At 
(1 hr.) the H6tel- Pension Brunni (32SC; pens, from 5 fr.) a terrace affords a 
fine view. After i/ihr. the path leads through a gate to the Gschwend-Alp ; 
20 min. farther up, near a chalet (inn, with beds), we pass through another 
gate, and ascend in steep zigzags to the left, at first through beautiful pine- 
wood, and then across slopes of grass and debris, to (l'/i hr.) the H6U\ 
Klimsenhorn (6150'; E, 2-4, B. H/s, D. 31/2 fr.), on the saddle (5940 1 ) con- 
necting the Oberhaupt with the (5 min.) 'Klimsenhorn (6265'), which 
affords an extensive and picturesque prospect to theE., N., and W., from 
the Uri Mts- to the Lake of Neuchatel. The view to the S. is hidden 
by the loftier peaks of Pilatus. 

From the Hotel Klimsenhorn a good zigzag path (iron railing higher up) 
ascends the steep slope of the Oberhaupt, to the (40 min.) JCrieiiloch, a hole 
in the rock resembling a chimney, 20' high, through which 52 steps ascend 
to the arete between the Oberhaupt and the Esel. ! View of the Bernese 
Alps suddenly disclosed. Then in 4 min. to the Hotel Pilatuskulm. 

The Pilatuskulm is also reached by footpaths from Alpnaclistad (i^/i-b hrs.;! 
by the Aemtigen-Alp and Mattalp) and from Alpnach (p. 146; 4'/2-5 hrs.; 
by the Alps of Liitholdsrnatt, Schwdndi. and Hinter - Frakmund). — From 
Kriens (p. 99) a toilsome path leads to (3'/2-4 hrs.) the Hotel Klimsenhorn,] 
passing the chateau of Schauensee , through the Bochwald, and marshy 
pastures, by the Muhlenmaz-Alp and Frakmiind-Alp (guide indispensable).! 
Via the Briindlen-Alp (last part very rough), see p. 99. 

30. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth-Goldau. 

i. From Zug to Arth-Goldau. Lake of Zug. 

10V-' M. St. Gotthard Railway in 23-28 min. (1 fr. 70, 1 fr. 20, S5 c). h 
Steamboat from Zug to Arth during the season four times daily in 3 /i-l'/s hr. 

a. Railway. — Zug (1385'), see p. 91. The line intersects tbi 
suburb of Zug by a long viaduct, passes under the town by a tunnel 
(638 yds.), and after about 3 M approaches the Lake of Zug (p. 117), 
which it then skirts, in a series of cuttings, embankments, and 
viaducts over the ravines descending from the Zuger Berg. Charm- 
ing view, to the right, of the lake, with the chateau of Buonas and 
Immensee on its E. bank. Two tunnels ; then (6 M.) stat. WcUch- 
wil (p. 117). After five more tunnels the line quits the lake and 
ascends along the base of the Rossberg to (IO'/'q M.) stat. Arth- 
Goldau (p. 122). 



Nord-'Ost 



Siid-Ost 



Sud-West 



G I a r n e r 



Stockhorn 
21,93 



Albis873 Oberalbis 880 Zimmerberg 773 




rgenstoclf 



Loppei* 



Mattborn 2040 



Schlierenberg 1707 



Gest . v. C. Btrtrand . Schrift v.S . Sehwarze Leipzig. 



FIIS11I1 ¥©M FILATUS (ESEL) 2123 m 



IMMENSEE. Maps,pp.98,108. — 1I.R.30. 117 

b. Steamboat. — The Lake of Zug (1368'), 83/ 4 M. long, 2 l / 2 M. 
wide, and 660' deep, is very picturesque. Its richly wooded banks 
rise gently to a moderate height, while to the S., above its azure 
waters, towers the Rigi, visible from base to summit. Soon after the 
steamer has left the pier, Pilatus appears to the S.W., and then the 
Bernese Alps and the Stanser Horn to the left. On a promontory on 
the W. bank is the handsome chateau of Buonas ; on the E. bank lies 
the village of Oberwil ; to the N., the church-tower of Cham (p. 93). 
On the "W. bank, farther on, the wooded promontory of Kiemen pro- 
jects far into the lake. The steamer touches at Lothenbach on the 
E. bank, and then crosses to Immensee (*H6t. Rigi, pens. 5-6 fr.), 
charmingly situated at the foot of the Rigi. [On a wood-fringed bay, 
1 M. to the N. and H/2 M. from the railway-station of Immensee 
(p. 122), lies the health-resort of Baumgarten, with lake-baths 
(pens, from 4 fr. 40 c.) .] The steamer then steers diagonally across 
the lake to Walchwil (* Hotel- Pension Riviera, with hydropathic, R. 
IV2-2, B. 1, D. 2i/o, S. IV2, Pens, from 5i/ 2 fr.; *Stern, R. l-H/2 f r., 
B. 80 c, D. 11/2-2, S. I74-IV2 fr.), on the E. bank. The mildness of 
the climate is indicated by chestnut-trees and vines. To the left lies 
St. Adrian, at the foot of the Rossberg (p. 121). — Arth (1395'; 3400 
inhab. ; *Adler, with garden on the lake ; *H6t. Rigi) lies at the S. end 
of the lake, between the Rigi and the Rossberg, but not exposed to the 
landslips of the latter, the strata of which dip in another direction. 

Steam Tramway from Arth to Arth - Ooldau in •/< hr. (30 c. , return- 
ticket 50 c.)'; comp. p. 109. 

ii. From Lucerne to Kussnacht and Arth-Goldau. 

St. Gotthard Railway in 30-50 min. (2 fr. 95, 2 fr. 5, 1 fr. 45 c), see 
p. 121. — Steamboat from Lucerne to (8 M.) Kussnacht in 45-55 min. 
(1 fr. 80, 90 c). Railway from Kiissnacht to (5 M.) Arth-Goldau in 19 minutes. 
From Kussnacht through the 'Hohle Gasse' to Immensee by the road 
l 3 /4 M. (one-horse carr. 3 fr.). 

Departure from Lucerne , see p. 99. The steamer touches at 
Pens. Seeburg, rounds the Meggenhorn (p. 100), and enters the Bay 
of Kussnacht. High above the W. bank runs the St. Gotthard Rail- 
way (p. 121). To the left, near stat. Vorder-Meggen (Zur Balm Inn, 
pens. 3!/.2-6fr. ; Hot. -Pens. Angelfluh), rises the picturesque chateau 
of Neu-Hapsburg, behind which peeps the ancient tower of the castle 
of that name, once a frequent resort of the Emp. Rudolph when 
Count of Hapsburg, and destroyed by the Lucerners in 1352. The 
incident which induced Rudolph to present his horse to the priest 
is said to have occurred here (see Schiller's ballad, 'The Count of 
Hapsburg'). 

Stations Hinter-Meggen (*H6tel du Pare fy Pens. Oottlieben, 
pleasantly situated 1/4 M. from the lake, pens. 6-7i/ 2 fr.) and Morli- 
schachen (*Eintracht ; Linde), a prettily situated village. The steamer 
now crosses to Oreppen, on the E. bank, skirts the wooded slopes of 
the Rigi, and soon reaches — 



118 Il.R.31. — Maps,p P . 48,98. SCHINDELLEGI. 

8 M. Kussnacht (1443'; pop. 3564; *H6tel-Curham Kussnacht, 
with hydropathic, garden, and lake-baths, R. 1-4, board 4-6 fr. ; 
*H6t.-Pens. du Lac or Seehof, pens. 5-6 fr. ; *8chwarser Adler, 
pens. 4-5 fr. ; "Pens. Dr. Aufdermaur, pens, b^-fa-l fr-)i a village 
prettily situated at the N. end of this bay of the lake, with a fine 
distant view. — Ascent of the Rigi, see p. 110. 

A good road from Kiissnacht ascends via Haltikon to the thriving and 
finely situated village of (1 hr.) Udligeniwil (2050"; Engel), whence the 
'St. Michaelskreuz (2615'), locally known as the 'Kleine Rigi', may be 
easily reached in '/2 hr. Unpretending *Inn and chapel on the top, which 
commands a beautiful view of the lakes of Zug and Lucerne, the Alps, and 
the hilly landscapes of N. Switzerland. A more extensive view is enjoyed 
from the Ochienwaldhohe (2685'), 5 min. from the inn. The St. Michaels- 
kreuz may also be ascended by good roads from Gisiknn fin 1 hr.), from 
Rothkreuz (IV2 hr.), and from Lucerne, via Adligemwil (1770'; Pens. Sackhof) 
and Udligenswil (in A hrs.). 

The road ascends the 'Hohle Gasse' ('hollow lane' ; see Schiller's 
'Tell'), now half filled up, shaded at one point by lofty beeches. At 
the upper end of it, l 1 ^ M. from Kussnacht, to the left, is Tell's 
Chapel (1585'), rebuilt in 1834, marking the spot where the tyrant 
Gessler is said to have been shot by Tell. Over the door is a painting 
of the event, with an inscription. Close by is the large new Roman 
Catholic missionary institution of Bethlehem, with an artizans' school 
(visitors admitted). By the (1/2 M.) inn Zur Eiche (R. 1-2, B. 1 fr. 
20 c.) the road divides. A few paces to the right is stat. Immensee 
(p. 122). The road to the left descends to (1/4 M.) the village of 
immensee (p. 117). 



31. From Zurich via Wadenswil to Arth-Goldau. 
Einsiedeln. 

35 M. Railway in 3V«hrs. (8 fr. 70, 6 fr. 15, 4 fr. 35 c); to Einsiedeln, 
25V2 M., in 2-2 ] /2 hrs. (5 fr. 60, 3 fr. 95, 2 fr. 80 c). — Railway from Rappers- 
wil via. Pfaffikon to Einsiedeln, 1 hr. 6 min. (see p. 50). 

From Zurich to (15 M.) Wadenswil (1348'), see p. 50. The 
line ascends the fertile slopes on the S. bank of the Lake of Zurich, 
commanding beautiful views of the lake, with the Curflrsten and 
Sentis in the background. 17 M. Burghalden (1740'); 19Y2 M. 
Samstagern (2080' ; Stern, with a large restaurant), junction of the 
line (to the left) to Rapperswil-Pfafflkon via Wollerau (Hotel-Pen- 
sion Bellevue; Hirsch ; p. 50). — Beyond (20'/ 2 M.) Schindellegi 
(2480'; "Freihof ; Hirsch) we cross the brawling Sihl. 

Diligence thrice daily in >/j hr. to (3 M.) Feusisberg (2395'; 'Curhavt 
Feusisgarien, R. 2. B. 1, D. 2>/2-3. S. 1 fr 80 c, pens. 5-6 fr. ; H6t.-Pem. SchSn- 
fell, pons. 41/2-5 fr.; B6t.-Pens. zur Frohen Ausstcht, R. l-ll/ 2 , !>• 2-3, S. l'/2-2, 
pens. 4-5 fr.), a health-resort, pleasantly situated, with fine view of the Lake 
of Zurich and the Alps of Appenzell. — About 2'/s M. to the W. of Schin- 
dellegi (diligence twice daily in >/i hr.) is the whey-cure resort ofHiitten 
(2428'; Krone <fc Bar, R. l-l'/a, pens. 4-5 fr.). charmingly situated on the 
idyllic Hiiltemee. at the foot of the wooded Hohe Rhonen (4040'). — The 
Dreilanderitein (3)0T), the E. pcint of the Hohe Khonen, marking the 



EINSIEDELN. Map.>,pp.48,98. — II.R.31. 119 

boundaries of Cantons Zurich, Zug, and Schwjz, may be reached from 
Schindellegi in i hr., and the walk may be continued along the crest of 
the hill to the Oottschalkenberg (see below). 

The line rounds the E. slopes of the Hohe Rhonen (4040') and 
approaches the Alp, which falls into the Sihl here. To the S, appear 
the Myten (p. 123).— Beyond (22 1/2 M.) Biberbrucke (2730'; Krone), 
where the Biber falls into the Alp, the Glarus Mts., bounded on the 
left by the pyramidal Kopfenstock (6240'), form the background. 

Pleasant excursion from Biberbrucke (by road 4V2M.; omnibus twice 
daily, 3 fr.; damp footpath, to the right, about halfway, 1V4 hr.) to the top 
of the Gottschalkenberg (3780'; ° Curiums, pens. 7-10 fr.), the W. prolonga- 
tion of the Hohe Rhonen (p. 118), commanding a fine view of the Alps 
(finest from the Belvedere, 10 min. to the S.). The descent may be made 
to (2'/2 M.) Ober-Ageri (p. 92), to (l'/s hr.) Richterswil (p. 50), or by Men- 
zingen to (6 M.J Zug (p. 91). 

Fkom Bibbrbruckb to Einsibdbln, 3 M., branch-railway in 
13 min., through the narrow Alpthal. 

Fkom Pfaffikon (p. 50) by the Etzel to Einsiedeln, 9>/z JI. A 
narrow road commanding fine views of the lake ascends in windings, 
past the Pens. Lugeten, to the (5 M.) pass of the Etzel (3145'; *Inn), with 
the Chapel of St. Meinrad. The Hohe Etzel (3610'; steep ascent of V2 hr. 
from the inn) is wooded, and commands no view, but the "Schbnboden 
(3513'), */< hr. to the E., affords a splendid view of the lake, the Limmat- 
Thal as far as Baden, the Alps of Appenzell and Glarus, the Sihlthal and 
Alpthal, with Einsiedeln, the Myten of Schwyz, the Rossberg, and the 
Rigi ; to the W. rises the Hohe Rhonen (see above). Travellers bound for 
Einsiedeln may descend from the Schonboden towards the S.W. direct to 
Egg, visible below, cross the Sihl, and join the road from the Etzel. — 
From the Etzel Inn the road descends to the ( 3 /« M.) Teufelsbriicke (2755 1 ) 
over the Sihl. Thence 3 3 A M. to Einsiedeln. 

Einsiedeln (2900'; pop. 8500; *Pfau, R,27 2 -5,B. li/ 4) D. incl. 
wine 3, S. incl. wine l 1 /^, pens. 6'/2-10 fr. ; *Sonne; Drei Konige; 
*St. Catharine/, B. 1-2 fr., B. 90 c, pens, from 4 fr., unpretending; 
St. Oeorg ; Schwan; Restaurant Zehnder, with rooms), or Notre- 
Dame-des-Ermites (Monasterium Eremitarum), in a green valley, 
watered by the Alpbach, vies with Rome andLoretto in Italy, Sant- 
iago de Compostela in Spain, and Mariazell in Styria as one of the 
most famous pilgrim-resorts in the world. 

Its foundation is attributed to Count Meinrad of Sulgen, who built a 
chapel here in honour of a wonder-working image of the Virgin presented 
to him by the Abbess Hildegard of Zurich. After Meinrad's death in 861, 
a monastery of Benedictine Hermits ('Einsiedler') sprang up here. In 1274 
it was created an independent principality by Emp. Rudolph of Hapsburg, 
and owing to the ever increasing throng of pilgrims it soon vied with St. 
G-allen as one of the richest monasteries in Switzerland. 

In the large open space between the houses (a great many of 
which are inns for the pilgrims) and the lofty buildings of the mon- 
astery rises a black marble Fountain with fourteen jets, surmounted 
by an image of the Virgin , from which the pilgrims are wont to 
drink. The pilgrims, chiefly from Switzerland, Bavaria, Swabia, 
Baden, and Alsace, number about 200,000 annually. The chief 
festival takes place on 14th September. 

Under the Arcades, which form a semicircular approach to the church 
on the right and left, as well as in the Platz itself, there are numerous 



1 20 II. B. 31. — Map. p. 98. ROTHENTHURM. 

stalls for the sale of prayer-books, images of saints, rosaries, medals, 
crucifixes, and other 'devotional' objects. So great is the demand for en- 
gravings, religious works, and other souvenirs of the place, that at Ben- 
ziger <fc Co.'s establishment no fewer than 700 workmen are employed in 
printing and stereotyping, engraving on wood and zinc, chromo-lithograph- 
iDg, book-binding, etc. 

The extensive Abbey Buildings, in the Italian style, which were 
re-erected for the sixth or seventh time in 1704-19, are 148 yds. 
long , 41 yds. of which are occupied by the Church and its two 
slender towers. On the right and left of the entrance are Statues of 
the Emperors Otho I. and Henry II., two benefactors of the Abbey. 

The Interior of the church is gaudily decorated with gilding, marble, 
and pictures of little value. In the nave stands the Chapel op the Vibgin, 
of black marble, the 'Sanctum Sanctorum 1 , with a grating, through which, 
illuminated by a solitary lamp, a small Image of the Virgin and Child is 
visible, richly attired, and decked with crowns of gold and precious stones. 
In the chapel to the right, a Crucifix by J. Kraus ; in the choir, an As- 
sumption by the same artist, skilfully restored by Deschwanden in 1858. 
The magnificent chandelier was dedicated by Napoleon III. in memory of 
his mother. — The Abbey contains a well-arranged Library of 50,000 volumes, 
chiefly historical, and a number of MSS. The Furstensaal is hung with 
good lifesize portraits, including those of Pius IX. and the emperors Wil- 
liam I., Francis Joseph, and Napoleon III. The Private Chapel of the 
abbot is adorned with paintings of ecclesiastical events. 

The Herrenberg (3650'; l /% hi.'), a hill above the Abbey to the 
S.E., commands a beautiful view. Similar views from the Kreuz or 
from the St. Meinradsberg, 3 / 4 M. to the S. of the town. 

From Einsiedeln to Schwtz over the Hacken (3V2 hrs.), destitute 
of shade, and very disagreeable in bad weather. We ascend the monoton- 
ous Alpthal (with the nunnery of Au on the right) to the (l'/2 hr.) village 
of Alpthal (3258'; Stern, plain), where the somewhat rough and steep 
log-path ascending the Hacken begins. In 1/2 hr. we gain a point where 
the space between the two Myten (p. 123), shaped like the letter V, is 
distinctly observed, and in V2 hr. more reach the Inn on the Hacken Pass 
(4568'), which commands a splendid view of the lakes of Lucerne and 
Lowerz, etc. (The view is still finer from the Hochstuckli, 5105', { h nr - 
higher np, to the N., and embraces the N. part of the lake and the town 
of Zurich.) Descent to (1 hr.) Schwyz steep and stony. 

From Einsiedeln to Schwtz over the Ibf.rger Egg, 16'/2 M. Good 
road (diligence to Ober-lberg twice daily in 2'/j hrs., 1 fr. 95 c.) through 
the Sihlthal or Euthal by Steinbach and Euthal to (9 M.) Ober-Jlerg (3483'; 
'Hot. -Pens. Holdener, pens. 5 fr. ; Post, well spoken of), a health-resort; 
thence to the (3 3 /« M.) Iberger Egg (4823') or Beilighduschen, affording a 
fine survey of the Lake of Lucerne and the Alps, and by Buliiberg and 
Rvkenbach to (3 3 /4 M.) Schwyz. 

Beyond Biberbriicke (p. 119) the railway crosses the Biber, and 
ascends across a monotonous plateau. From (2f) 1 / 2 M.) Altmatt 
(3030'; Rossli), a poor hamlet on a large moor, a road leads in l^hr. 
to the Gottschalkenberg (p. 119). 

28 M. Rothenthurm (3040'; *Ochs, R. 1% B. 1, D. 2, pens. 
^'/2-4 fr. ; Schliissel), with a new Romanesque church, where to the 
left the Mytcn, and to the right the long back of the Rigi and the 
hotels on the Kulm become visible, is named after a red tower 
belonging to fortifications (Letze) once orccted by the Schwyzers to 
protect their N.W. boundary. In the vicinity, on 2nd May, 1798, 



STEINERBERG. Maps,pp.98,108.— H.R.31. 121 

the Schwyzers under Reding defeated the French, who lost 2000 men. 
The railway then descends the wooded valley of the Steiner-Aa to 
(31 M.) Sattel-Ageri ; to the left is the prettily situated village of 
Sattel (2712'; Neue Krone, i/ 4 M. from the station, R. 1-11/2, B. 1, 
D. 2, S. IV2, pens. 5 ft.; Alte Krone, in the village). 

The "Schlagstrasse, as the picturesque road from Sattel to Schwyz is 
called (5 J /2 M. ; a fine walk), crosses the Steiner-Aa and ascends on the 
W. slope of the Eacken (p. 120), affording beautiful views of the fertile 
valley of Steinen. the Lake of Lowerz with the Schwanau, the scene of 
the Goldau landslip, and the Rigi. At (3 T /2 M.) the "Hindi Inn (a little 
farther on, the Burg /»»), Schwyz and the Myten become visible. Thence 
to stat. Seewen ly t M., to Schwyz (p. 123) 2 M. 

From Sattel-Ageri to Morgarten, 2 M., omnibus in '/2 hr. (50 c); 
steamboat on the Ageri Lake, see p. 93. 

The railway descends the slopes of the Rossberg, by several 
viaducts and a short tunnel, to (33 M.) Steinerberg (1950'; Rossli, 
R. 1-1 V 2 , B. 1, D. 1 ft. 80 c, pens. 4-5 ft.; Lowe, both fair), a 
village with a fine view of the valley of Lowerz, framed by the Rigi, 
the Fronalpstock (with the Liedernenstbcke and Marenberge in the 
distance), and the two Myten. 

The 'Rossberg (highest peak, Wildspitz, 5190'), a mountain rising be- 
tween the lakes of Zug, Ageri, and Lowerz, is ascended from Steinerberg 
by a bridle-path in 272-3 hrs. At the top, which forms a knobbed ridge 
about 2 M. long and commands a fine view (panorama by Imfeld), is the 
Hotel Botsberg-Kulm (R. from ii/i, B. 1, D. 21/2, S. I1/2 fr.). From the 
Onippen (5170'), or W. summit of the Rossberg, reached from the hotel by 
a level path in 20 min., we obtain a good survey of the scene of the landslip 
of 1806 (comp. p. 122). — We may descend to Ageri (p. 92) or to the Zuger 
Berg (p. 92). 

The railway traverses the scene of the Goldau Landslip, and 
joins the St. Gotthard Railway at (35 M.) Arth-Ooldau (p. 122). — 
Rigi Railway, see p. 109. 



32. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Gotthard 
Railway. 

105'/2 M. Railway. Express ('Blitzzug 1 ; first class only) in 3V2, fast 
trains in 3 3 /4-5 l /3, ordinary trains in 7 hrs. ; fares 23 fr. 35, 16 fr. 45, 11 fr. 70 c. 
(To Lugano, 124 M., in 41/4-61/3 hrs. ; 27 fr. 70, 19 fr. 40, 13 fr. 85 c. ; to Milan, 
173V2M., in 6-9 hrs.; 36 fr. 50, 25 fr. 60, 18 fr. 20 c). — For the day express 
there is a table-d'hote at Gfischenen, where the traveller should be care- 
ful to avoid an involuntary change of carriages , or even of trains. The 
other express trains have dining or sleeping cars. Finest views from 
Lucerne to Fluelen to the right, from Fliielen to Gbschenen to the left, and 
from Airolo to Bellinzona to the right. 

The '"St. Gotthard Railway, constructed in 1872-82 at a cost of 
271 million francs , is one of the grandest achievements of modern 
engineering. The highest point of the line, in the middle of the great 
tunnel , is 3786' above the sea-level, and the maximum gradient is about 
1' in 4'. At places the ascent is rendered more gradual by means of curved 
tunnels , piercing the sides of the valley ; there are three such tunnels 
on the N. side, and four on the S. side of the mountain (comp. Map, p. 119). 
Altogether the line has 80 tunnels (of an aggregate length of 28 l /2 M.), 
324 bridges of more than 32' span, and many smaller bridges. In order 



122 1I.R.32. — Maps,pp.98,l08. ARTH-GOLDAU. From Lucerne 

to examine the most interesting structure of the line itself, the traveller 
may drive in an open carriage or walk from Amsteg to Goschenen (12 M.) 
and from Airolo to Giornico (15 M.). Those who are not pressed for time 
should take the steamboat from Lucerne to Fliielen, in preference to the 
train (holders of through-tickets and circular tickets have the choice of 
either route) ; or, if they have not yet visited the Rigi, they may take the 
railway to Arth-Goldau, the Bigi-Kulm, and Vitznau, and the steamer 
thence to Fliielen. 

Lucerne, see p. 94. Beyond the Giitsch Tunnel the Gotthatd Rail- 
way diverges to the right from the Central Line (p. 21), crosses 
the Reuss, and passes through the Allenwinden-Wesemlin Tunnel 
(2313 yds.), emerging near the Hotel de l'Europe, on the E. side of 
Lucerne. It gradually ascends towards Seeburg (p. 117), affording 
a splendid view of the town, the lake, and the Alps, and passes 
through three short tunnels. By the chateau of Neu-Hapsburg (p. 117) 
the line turns to the N.E. and runs high up on the W. hank of the 
Bay of Kiissnacht (opposite the Rigi) to (6 3 /4 M.) Stat. Meggen, 
between the villages of Vorder- and Hinter-Meggen (p. 117). Beyond 
(10 M.) Stat. Kiissnacht (p. 118) is the Schwarzenbach Tunnel. View 
of the Lake of Zug (p. 117) to the left; on the N. bank Walchwil, 
and beyond it St. Adrian (p. 117). 

12 M. Immensee (1518; junction of the line from Rothkreuz, 
p. 93); the village lies below us, on the left (see p. 117). To the 
right are the wooded slopes of the Rigi, with the Kulm Hotel far 
above (p. 108). The train runs high above the Lake of Zug, through 
several cuttings. At the E. end of the lake, on the left, lies the 
thriving village of Arth (p. 117), at the foot of the wooded Rossberg, 
behind which rise the Myten (p. 123). Threading the Rindelfluh 
Tunnel (220 yds.), we reach — 

17 M. Arth-Goldau (1725'; *Rail. Restaurant; Hot. Steiner, 
R. 1V2-3, B. 1, D. 21/2, S. 2, pens, from 5 fr. ; Hotel Hof-Ooldau, 
R. lV2"^'/2) B. 1, pens. 5-6 fr. ; Rbssli, 3 min. from the station, 
R. IV2-2V2, B. 1, D. 2 fr.; Hot.-Pem. Schbnegg, pens. 4-5 fr.), also 
the terminus of the Arth-Rigi Railway (p. 109), and junction for 
Zug and for Einsiedeln-Wadenswil (pp. 116, 121). The station is 
situated on the scene of the Ooldau Landslip, which occurred on 
2nd Sept., 1806. This terrible landslip, which descended from the 
summit of the Rossberg (p. 121), buried four villages with 457 of 
their inhabitants. The railway traverses part of this scene of desola- 
tion, which extends far up the Rigi. Time has covered the fragments 
of rock with moss and other vegetation, and picturesque pools of 
water have been formed between them at places. The track of the 
landslip may be distinctly traced on the side of the Rossberg, which 
is still entirely barren. 

On the slope to the left lie the houses of Steinerberg (p. 121) ; 
on the right, high above, is the Curhaus Rigi-Scheidegg (p. 112). 
We skirt the pretty Lowerzer See (1475'; 3 M. long). To the 
right lies the village of Lowerz (Pens. Biichcler-Peter, i l /^-6 fr.), 
and in the lake the island of Schwanau with its ruined castle, a 



to Bellimona. SCHWYZ. Map, p. 98. — II. jB. 32. 1 23 

chapel, and a fisherman's house (inn ; boat from Lowerz or Seewen 
in 25 min.). — 20y 2 M. Steinen (1540'; Rossli, pens. 5fr., tin- 
pretending), a large village in a fertile site, the traditional birthplace 
of Werner Stauffacher (p. 105). On the supposed site of his house 
stands the Chapel of the Holy Rood, with frescoes by Ferd. Wagner of 
Munich. The train crosses the Steiner-Aa to — 

22i/ 2 M. Seewen-Schwyz (1500'; *Hdt.-Pens. Schwyzerhof, R. 
l f /2-2, pens. 5 fr.; Railway Inn, both at the station). The village 
of Seewen (*Rossli, R. 2-2y 2 , B. I1/4, D. 3, S. 2, pens. 6-8 fr.; 
*Stern, R. iy 2 -2y 2 fr., B. 80 c, D. 2% S. 1% pens. 41/2-6 7 2 fr -5 
*Pens. Seehof, near the Lowerzer See, with lake-baths, pens. 4-5 fr.), 
to the W. of the line, at the foot of the E. spur of the Rigi, has a 
chalybeate spring which attracts visitors. About 1 M. to the E. (electric 
tramway in 7 min. ; fare 20 c, return-ticket 30c.) lies Schwyz (1685' 
pop. 7398; *Weisses Rossli, R.2-2i/ 2 , D.27 2 , S. 2, pens. 5y 2 -67 2 fr. 
*H6telHediger, R. 17 2 -2i/ 2 , D. 27 2 -3, S. 2, pens. 5-7 fr. ; Bar, plain 
Cafe Central, near the church, with garden-restaurant), a straggling 
town, lying picturesquely at the base and on the slopes of the Little 
Myten (5955'), with its two peaks, and the Great Myten (6245'). 
The Town Hall, restored in 1891 and embellished externally with 
frescoes from Swiss history by Ferd. Wagner, contains portraits of 
43 'landammanns' (magistrates) from 1534 downwards, and an old 
carved ceiling. The large Jesuit Monastery, above the town, is now 
a grammar-school. 

The 'Great Myten (6245'; 4 hrs. ; guide 6 fr., unnecessary for the ex- 
perienced ; horse to the Holzegg 8-10 fr.) is a magnificent point of view, 
little inferior to the Rigi and Pilatus. Road from Schwyz to (1 M.) Rickenbach 
(1935'; Bellevue; Stern, pens. 4-4'/2 fr.); bridle-path thence to the (2 hrs.) 
Holzegg (4642' ; small inn), which may also be reached by a direct path from 
Schwyz via the Bo lie and the pastures of Hasli and Holt (guide desirable). — 
From Brunnen (p. 103; diligence to Schwyz five times daily, 80 c.) by /bach 
and Rickenbach to the Holzegg in 3 hrs., Schwyz remaining on the left. — 
Good path from Einsiedeln (p. 119) by Alpthal to the Holzegg in 2 3 /4 brs. — 
From the Holzegg the new Myten path (railings at the steepest parts) 
ascends in 49 zigzags on the E. side of the mountain, and then follows the 
narrow arete to the (V/t hr.) summit ("Inn, plain, 10 beds). Good panorama 
by A. Heim. 

Interesting walk from Schwyz to the Suvoroff Bridge in the Muota- 
Thai, returning via Ober-Schonenbuch (2 hrs. in all); comp. p. 84. 

We now turn to the S. (on the left, the Fronalpstock with the 
Ourhaus Stoos far above us, p. 105), cross the Muota near Ingen- 
bohl, passing the large nunnery of Mariahttf, and reach — 

24V 2 M. Brunnen (1445' ; p. 103), one of the most frequented 
spots on the Lake of Lucerne. (Station 7 2 M. from the lake ; can. 
for 1 pers. 1 fr., each extra pers. 50 c.) 

Passing through a tunnel under the Outsch and the Axenstrasse 
(p. 106), the train reaches the '"Lake of TJri, or S.E. bay of the Lake 
of Lucerne (p. 105), and is carried along its bank through tunnels 
and rock-cuttings. Splendid views of the lake to the right. High 
above, on the opposite bank, lie the houses of Seelisberg, at the 



124 II. R. 32. — Maps,pp. 14-3,80. ALTDORF. From Lucerne 

foot of which are the Mytenstein and Riitli (p. 105); and farther to 
the left towers the XJri-Rothstock with its glacier (p. 107). "We pass 
through the Hochfluh Tunnel, the St. Franciscut Tunnel, and the 
Oelberg or Schiefernegg Tunnel (2169 yds.). — 28 M. Sisikon, at 
the mouth of the narrow Riemenstalden-Thal (p. 106). Crossing the 
Axenstrasse, we thread several tunnels, passing under the Stutzeck 
(1082 yds.), the Tell's Platte (chapel not visible ; p. 106), the Axen- 
berg (3670' long), and the Sulzeck. 

32 M. Fluelen (1435'), see p. 106. 

We now ascend the lower Reussthal, with the Bristenstock (p. 125) 
in the background, and the two Windgellen (p. 137) to the left of it. 

33^2 M. Altdorf. — Hotels. In the town, 1 M. from the station: 
*Lowe, R. 2-3, B. 1, D. 3, S. 2i/z, pens. 5-6 fr.; 'Schlhssel, R. 11/2-31/*, B. 1, 
D. 3-4, S. 2-272, pens. 6-7 fr.; omnibus from the pier at Fliielen to either 
of these 50 c; "Tell, with shady garden, pens, from 5 fr. ; Scbutzenhof; 
Kkone, R. 1-2, pens. 3 ] /2-6 fr. ; Bear; — Hotel Bahnhof, at the station, 
R. iy-2, B. 1, D. Ji/2-3, pens. 4V2-5 fr. 

Altdorf or Altorf (lAW ; pop. 3134), the capital of Canton Uri, 
lies in a fertile valley surrounded by imposing mountains. This 
pleasant little town is the traditional scene of the exploits of Wil- 
liam Tell, the liberator of Switzerland from the Austrian yoke (comp. 
p. xxxv). A bronze statue of the intrepid archer, with the child 
by his side, from Kissling's model, was erected in 1895 to the N.W. 
of the tower (dating from the 13th cent.) in the principal 'Platz' 
of the village. In summer popular representations of Schiller's 
'Tell' are given in a theatre erected for the purpose. The Church 
contains a Madonna in relief, by Imhof. The Capuchin Monastery, 
above the church, and the neighbouring Pavilion Waldegg command 
beautiful views. (Ascent near the tower, or from below Tell's statue.) 
Above the monastery lies the Bannwald, a 'sacred grove', in which 
the woodman's axe is proscribed, as it protects Altdorf from falling 
rocks (see Schiller's Tell, Act iii, Scene 3). 

Through the Schachen- Thai and via the "Klausen to (30!/? M.) Linthal, 
see R. 22. The best view of the beautiful head of the Schachen- Thai is 
obtained from Urigen, which is reached from Altdorf via Spiringen in 3 hrs. ; 
see p. 84. — On the Klausen road, 1 M. to the E. of Altdorf, is the village of 
Biirglen (1810'; *Tell, R. 11/2-21/2, B. 1, D. 2, pens. 4i/ 2 -5 fr.; Loreto), the 
traditional home of Tell. The supposed site of his house is marked by a 
Chapel, erected in 1522, and adorned with paintings of his exploits. Near 
the Tell Inn is an old tower dating from the 8th cent., with the cantonal 
collection of antiquities. — The Rossstock (8080'; 5 hrs. ; guide 12 fr.), a 
splendid point of view , is ascended without difficulty by experts from 
Biirglen, via the Mettenthal-Alp. Descent, if preferred, through the Riemen- 
stalden-Thal to Sisikon (p. 106). — Belmistock, or Belmeten (7950'), from 
Altdorf via Schattdorf (see below) in 5 hrs. (guide 8 fr.), also interesting. 

The train crosses the Schachenbach in its artificial bed, near its 
confluence with the Reuss. Among fruit-trees to the left is the 
church of Schattdorf. To the right, beyond the Reuss, we see the 
church -tower and the ruined castle of Attinghausen (restored in 
1898), in which the Baron Werner of Attinghausen, one of the 
characters in Schiller's 'Tell', is said to have died in 1320 (*Inn at 



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to Bellinzona. AMSTEG. Maps,pp. 142,80. — II.R.32. 125 

the foot of the castle-hill). The background of the valley towards 
the S. is formed by the pyramidal Bristenstock (see below); to the 
right rise the bold precipices of the Gitschen (8333') and the Bockli 
(6810'), to the left the Schwarzgrat (6636'), Belmistoek (7950'), Hohe 
Faulen (8260'), and lastly the two Windgellen (Grosse, or Kalkstock, 
10,470'; Kleine, or Sewelistock, 9800'). 

371/2 M. Erstfeld (1558' ; Hof Erstfeld, R. from 2 fr. ; Hot. Bahn- 
hof, R. 2-272, pens. 5-7 fr., both at the station; Post, R. l-li/ 2 fr., 
unpretending), a large railway-depot, where the ascent begins. The 
village lies on the opposite bank of the Reuss, at the mouth of the 
Erstfelder-Thal, above which peep the jagged Spannorter and the 
Schlossberg (p. 146), with its strangely contorted glacier. 

The Erstfelder-Thal (comp. Map, p. 142) extends on the S.W. to the 
Glattenftrn. At the head of the valley are two Alpine lakes, the gloomy Faulen- 
see (5820 1 ), V2 hr. from the glacier, and the Obersee (6463'), 1/2 hr. farther to 
the S. Ahove the Faulensee, 5 hrs. from Erstfeld, is the Kronten -Siitte of the 
Swiss Alpine Club (6290'), whence the Kronten (10,195') is ascended by the 
Weissen Flatten and the Glattenftrn in 4>/ 2 hrs. (guide from Erstfeld 20 fr.; 
grand view), and the Great Spannort (10,515') in 5 hrs. (difficult; guide 25 fr.). 
The Faulenbach, which flows out of the Obersee, forms a beautiful fall. 
Fatiguing passes lead from the Krbnten-Hutte to the W. over the Schlossberg- 
Liiche (8632'; guide 25 fr.) and over the SpannSrter-Joch (9610'; guide 35 fr.) 
to (6V2 hrs.) Engelberg (comp. p. 146) ; also to the S. over the Leidensee Pass 
(7695') to the Leutschach- Thai and (7-8 hrs.) Inschi (p. 126). Guide, Qebhard 
Piintener of Erstfeld. 

From Erstfeld or Altdorf over the Surenen Past to (9 hrs.) Engelberg 
(guide 20 fr.), see p. 145. 

The Reussthal narrows, and the train begins to ascend on the 
right bank. 41 M. Stat. Amsteg (1795') , above Silenen , a village 
in the midst of fruit-trees. Near the station, on a rocky hill to the 
right, are the ruins of Zwing-Uri (1895'), the traditional castle of 
Gessler (rooms in the adjoining house). About 1 M. farther on lies 
the village of Amsteg (1712' ; *Stem §■ Post, R. 17,-3, D. 3, S. 2 1 /", 
pens. 6-8 fr.; *Hirsch, R. 1 1/0-21/2, B. 1, D. 3, S. 2i/ 2 , pens. 
4i/ 2 -7 fr.; *Weisses Kreuz, R. 1V 2 -2V 2 , B. 1, D. 3, S. 2i/ 2 , pens. 
5'/ 2 -7 fr.; *Engel, pens, from 5 fr.; Freihof, R. 17 2 -2, B. 1, pens. 
4-6 fr.), prettily situated at the mouth of the Maderaner-Thal, from 
which the Karstelenbach descends to the Reuss. 

Excursions (guides, see p. 137). A pleasant walk of 1 hr. is enjoyed 
by following the old St. Gotthard road (bridle-path) to Ried and Meitsch- 
lingen, and returning by the new road via, Inschi (p. 126). — "Maderaner-Thal 
(bridle-path in 3'/4 hrs. to the Hotel Alpenclub), see R. 34. — Over the 
Kreuzli Pass or the Brunni Pass to Disentis and over the Clariden Pass to 
Stachelberg, see pp. 137, 138. 

The Bristenstock (10,085'), ascended from Amsteg in 7-8 hrs. by the 
Bristenslafeli (5000') and the Blacki-Alp (6133') and past the small Bristen-Seeli 
(7090"), affords a grand panorama, but is very fatiguing (guide 25 fr.). Descent 
to the Etzli- Thai or Felli-Thal difficult. — Oberalpstock (10,925'), Kleine and 
Grosse Windgelle (9800' and 10,470'), etc., see p. 137. — The Hohe Faulen 
(8260'), ascended from Silenen in 5 hrs. (guide 10 fr.) through the Evi-Thal 
and over the Strengmatt, Rhonen, and Belmeten Alps, is not difficult. 

A walk or drive on the St. Gotthard Road from Amsteg to Goschenen 
(comp. Maps, pp. 142, 130) is recommended for the sake of the scenery and 
the interesting railway. We cross the Karstelenbach, and then the Reuss 



126 II.R.32.—Maps,pp. 124, 142,80. GURTNELLEN. FromLucernt 

by a bridge of two arches. To the left runs the railway; below us the Reuas 
dashes through its deep ravine, forming a succession of falls. In the early 
summer huge masses of avalanche-snow, looking like earth or detritus, are 
seen in the gorges. Beyond (l 3 /4 M.) Inschi (2168'; Lamm) we pass a fall 
of the Inschi-Alpbach. From Inschi we may visit the picturesque Leuttchach- 
Thai (to the Obermee, at the foot of the Manntliser, 3'/2 hrs. ; thence over 
the Leidensee Pass to the Erst) elder-Thai , see p. 125). — A second bridge 
carries the road back to the right bank of the Reuss (the railway remaining 
on the left bank), on which lies (l'/2 M.) Meilschlingen (2135'), with a chapel. 
About '/z JI. farther on we cross the Fellibach. (Through the narrow 
Felli-Thal, which abounds in crystals, the Oberalp-See may be reached by 
the Felli-Liicke in 6 hrs. ; p. 408 ; guide 12fr.) On the hill opposite stands 
the hamlet of Gurtnellen (3045'). Beyond the village of Wyler is (3 M.) a 
third bridge (2660'), called the Pfaffensprung, by which the road recrosses 
to the left bank. The first of the curved tunnels of the railway begins 
here (see below). Far below, the river dashes through a narrow gorge. View 
beautiful in both directions. The road crosses the turbulent Meienreusi 
near (IV2 M.) Wassen (see below). To the right are the three railway 
bridges. A path to the right, 50 yds. beyond the bridge, cuts off the 
windings of the road which ascends to the loftily situated church. 

Near ( 3 /i M.) Wattingm (3010') is the fourth bridge over the Reuss, 
above which, to the right, is a fall of the Rohrbach (p. 127). The (1 M.) 
fifth bridge (Schdnibriick, 3212') crosses to the left bank of the Reuss. To 
the left rises the Teufelsstein, a huge mass of rock. The next place 
(l'/ 2 M.) is GSschenen (3640'; p. 127). 

Above Amsteg the line pierces a projecting rock by means of the 
Windgelle Tunnel (1828'; 189 yds.), crosses the Karstelenbach by an 
imposing iron bridge (147yds. long, 178' high), affording a fine view 
of the deeply-cut Maderaner- Thai, with the Orosse Windgelle, to 
the left, and of the Reussthal to the right, and is then carried 
through the slope of the Bristenstock, which is much exposed to 
avalanches, by means of the two Bristenlaui Tunnels (436 yds. and 
234 yds.), and across the brawling Reuss by an iron bridge 256' 
high. "We now follow the left bank of the picturesque Reussthal 
(views to the left), traverse the Inschi Tunnel, cross the Inschi-Alp- 
bach and the Zgraggen-Thal (viaduct about 100 yds.), thread three 
other tunnels and a long cutting, and skirt the hillside by a via- 
duct to (46 M.) Gurtnellen (2428'; Alte Post or Schafli, well spoken 
of), with large granite-quarries. 

Above Gurtnellen we come to a most interesting part of the line, 
which, in order to make the ascent more gradual, passes through 
three curved tunnels and describes a wide double bend. It crosses 
the Oornerenbach and the Hagrigenbach (fine waterfall on the right), 
enters, near the Pfaffensprung-Briicke (see above), the Pfaffensprung 
Loop Tunnel (1635 yds., 3 min.), in which it mounts 115', traverses 
the short Miihle Tunnel, recrosses the Hagrigenbach (overlooking the 
Pfaffensprung bridge on the left), and then traverses the Muhren 
Tunnel (2822'; 93 yds.). Next follow a handsome bridge over the 
ravine of the Meienreuss (p. 154), the Kirchberg Tunnel under the 
'church-hill' of Wassen (330 yds.), a bridge across the Reuss to the 
left, iheWattinger Loop Tunnel (1199 yds. ; ascent of 76'), another 
bridge over the Reuss, and the Rohrbach Tunnel (242 yds.). — 
51 M. Wassen or Wasen (3055'), a large village (*H6t. des Alpet; 



to Bellinzona. GOSCHENEN. Maps,pp. 124,130,406.— 1I.R.32. 127 

Ochs, Krone, both good and unpretending, pens. 5 fr. ; Walker's 
Restaurant). The loftily situated church commands a survey of the 
hold structure of the railway. — Over the Susten to Meiringen, see 
R. 39. 

The imposing Mittlere Meienreuss Briieke (69 yds.; 260' high) 
and the Leggistein Loop Tunnel (1204 yds. ; ascent of 82') carry 
us to the Upper Meienreuss Bridge (59 yds. long; 148' high), 
beautifully situated, the third bridge over the deep, -wild gorge of 
the Meienreuss. We then pass through the short Meienkreuz Tunnel 
(3250'; 84 yds.), skirt the hillside, and obtain a view of Wassen 
and the windings just traversed. Opposite rises the Rienzer Stock 
(9785'). Crossing the Kellerbach and the Rohrlach, the train passes 
through the Naxberg Tunnel (1719 yds.; ascent of 118'), crosses the 
deep gorge of the Goschenen-Reuss (bridge 69 yds. long, 161' high; 
view of the Goschenen- Thai to the right, with the beautiful Damma- 
fim, p. 131), and reaches — 

55 V2 M - Goschenen (3640'; *Rail. Restaurant, D. with wine 
3 l /2 fr-, in the third-class waiting-room 1 fr. 80 c; *H6t.-Pens. 
Goschenen, opposite the station, R. 2-4, B. H/2, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 
6-9 fr.; *Rbssli, with garden, R. 2-2i/ 2 , B. H/4, D. 3-3i/ 2 , pens. 
6-8 fr.; Hot. Bahnhof, R. 2-21/2, B. ll/ 4 , D. 21/ 2 -3, well spoken of; 
Lowe, R^l 1/2-2, D. 21/2, pens. 6 fr. ; Krone, R. lV 2 -2i/ 2 , D. 2i/ 2 -3, 
pens. 5-7 fr. ; Engl. Ch. Serv. in Aug.). In the cemetery is a mon- 
ument (1889), by Andreoletti, to L. Favre, the engineer of the St. 
Gotthard Tunnel, who died in the tunnel on 19th July, 1879. — From 
Goschenen to Airolo by the St. Gotthard Road, 22 M., see R. 33. 

Beyond the station the train crosses the Gotthard-Reuss (p. 132) 
by a bridge 105' high, and enters the great *St. Gotthard Tunnel, 
16,393 yds. (9i/ 4 M.) in length, being 3114 yds. (l 2 /3 M.) longer 
than the Mont Cenis Tunnel. The central point is 3786' above the 
sea-level, from which it descends on both sides, about 6' in lftOO' 
towards Goschenen, and 2' in 1000' towards Airolo. The work was 
begun in June, 1872, at Goschenen, and a month later at Airolo, 
and the boring was completed on 29th Feb., 1880. During seven 
years and a half no fewer than 2500 workmen were on an average 
employed here daily, and the number sometimes rose to 3400. The 
cost was 563/ 4 million fr. (2,270,000*.). The tunnel, 28' broad and 
21' high, is lined with masonry throughout, and is laid with a double 
line. Since the introduction of ventilating apparatus in 1899 the 
air in the interior is fresh and free from smoke; the temperature is 
about 70°Fahr. The tunnel lies 1083' below Andermatt, 6076' 
below the Kastelhorn (which rises above the centre of the tunnel), 
and 3350' below the Sella Lake. Express trains take 14-20 min. to 
pass through the tunnel, slow trains 21-25 min. ; lanterns are placed 
on each aide of the tunnel at intervals of 1000 metres (even 
numbers on the right, uneven on the left). To the right, above the 
exit from the tunnel, are new fortifications. 



1 28 II. R. 32. — Maps, pp. 1 :>4, 406. AIROLO. From Lucerne 

66 M. Airolo. — Hotels : -Hotel Lombardi, with garden, R. 2-3, B.li/,, 
D. 3i/2, S. 3, pens. 7-9 fr. ; !: Hot.-Pkxs. Motta, R. 2i/ 3 -i, B. 1' j. dej. 2i/ 2 , D. 4, 
pens. 7-9 fr. ; "Hotel de la Postk, U. 2-3, B. I1/2, D. 31/2, S. 2, pens. 7-10 fr.; 
•Hutel Rossi. R. 2-2V-J, B. 1 fr. 20 c, D. 3, S. 2 1 /-.-, pens. 6 fr. ; "Hotel des 
Alpks, R. 11/2-21/2, B. 1 fr. 20 c , D. 3, S. 2, pens. 7 fr. — 'Railway Restaurant. 

Airolo (3755'; pop. 1629), in the upper valley of the Ticino, the 
flrst Italian-Swiss village, was rebuilt after a fire in 1877, but was 
again partly destroyed in 1898 by a landslip from the Sasso Rosso. 
Further danger has, however, been averted by embankments and 
regulation of the brooks descending from the hillside. It is frequented 
as a summer-resort. The scenery retains its alpine character until 
near Faido. To the W. is the imposing Pizzo Rotondo group. 

Kxccrsions (guides, Clem. Dotta, Basil and Giovanni Jori, and Mario 
Travella of Airolo). From Airolo to the picturesque Stalved-ro Gorge (p. 129), 
20 min. ; to the Lombard Tower, 35 minutes. — Pizzo Rotondo (10,490'), the 
highest peak of the St. Gotthard, is ascended from Airolo in 8-9 hrs. (diffi- 
cult; for experts only; guide 40 fr.). Walk in the afternoon (rough cart-track 
as far as Villa, l 3 /-ihr.) to (3 hrs.) All'Acqua in Val Bedretto (p. 341; inn), 
and spend the night; steep ascent thence over grassy slopes, debris, and snow- 
fields to the (3'/i hrs.) Passo Rotondo (9690'), whence the rocky summit is 
reached in 1 1/2-2 hrs. by a difficult climb up a steep snow - couloir (foot- 
irons desirable) and over loose stones. *View very grand and picturesque 
(cjmp. p. 135). 

Passes. To the St. Gotthard, see p. 134 (rich Alpine flora as far as 
the Tremola gorge). — Through the Val Bedretto and over the Nufenen 
Pass to the Valais, see p. 341 ; over the San, Giacomo Pass (7572') to the Falls 
of the Tosa , see p. 316. Through the Val Canaria and over the Unleralp 
Pass (8300') to Andermatt (8 hrs), fatiguing; ascent very steep. Over 
the Bocca di Cadlimo (8340') to Santa Maria (p. 410), 8 hrs., attractive. — 
By the Passo Bornengo to Val Maigels, see p. 408. Over the Sassello Pass to 
Val Maggia, see p. 473. — Over the Passo dei Sassi (ca. 8200'), interesting, 
but for steady climbers only (to Fusio 8 hrs.). From Airolo past the 
hamlet of Nante and the (2 hrs.) Alp Piscium (5630 1 ) to ( 3 /i hr.) Comaschne 
(6234') and along precipitous rocks, where the path disappears, to the 
(2Vi hrs.) pass, between the Poncione di Vespero and Poncione di Mezzodi, 
with superb view of the St. Gotthard mountains. Descent across steep grassy 
slopes (plenty of edelweiss) into the Val Maggia* to (2 hrs.) Corte and ( 3 /4 hr.) 
Fusio (p. 474). 

From Airolo to Disentis through the Val Piora (11 hrs. ; guide, 
nnnecessary, to Piora 6, to Santa Maria 10 fr. ; porter from Airolo , 15 c. per 
kilogramme up to Piora, 10 c. down ; horse to Piora, 3 hrs., 15 fr.). Descend- 
ing the St. Gotthard road for 3 A M., we cross the Canaria to the left, and 
ascend to (20 min.) Madrano (3780'). After '/* hr. more the path ascends 
to the left to (20 min.) Brugnasco (4548'). It then runs nearly level, over- 
looking the picturesque valley of the Ticino, and afterwards through wood. 
From ( 3 / 4 hr.) Altanca (4567' ; inn) we ascend to the left in zigzags past 
a little chapel to the (40 min.) Alp in Valle (a spring by the wayside). The 
rock below it bears a very ancient inscription. In the gorge to the right 
the Fossbach forms several falls. Fine retrospect of the Ticino mountains. 
We cross a rocky saddle to the Oh hr.) picturesque Lake Ritom (6000'). 
On the right is the ''Hotel Piora (R. 2-3, B. I1/2, D. 1, S.3i/ 2 , pens., even for a 
short stay, 7-9 fr.), an attractive and well-sheltered health-resort. Pine-woods 
close to the hotel; great variety of geological formations and of plants. 
Bath in the lake (56° Fuhr.), including towels, 50 c. Pleasant walks near. 
In secluded basins lie six little lakes, and there are four others just be- 
yond the ridges in the direction of Val Cadlimo. Delightful view of the 
lake, the Ticino valley, etc., from the Bella Vista (■/< hr.); more extensive 
from Fongio (7257'), 1 hr. farthrr on (skirt the hillside to the W.), and from 
the Cima di Camoghe (J1W ; l 3 /« hr.). — ' Taneda (8760"), an easy ascent 
of 2'/2 hrs. (guide advisable lor novices), pi at Lake Tom to the ridge sep- 



to Bellinzona. FAIDO. Map, p. 124. — H.R.32. 129 

arating Val Piora from Val Cadlimo, between Taneda and Punta Nera, 
where we keep to the right, over debris and rocks, to the broad summit. 
Splendid view of the Val Piora, the Val Bedretto, and the Alps of Valais, 
Bern, Uri, Ticino, and the Grisons. A similar view is obtained from the 
Punta Nera (8925'), ascended (to the left from the Taneda saddle) in 2 1 /<hrs. 
Other good points (guides at the hotel) are the Corandoni (8733' ; 3 hrs.), 
Piz delf Uomo (9020 1 ; 3'/2 hrs.), Pizzo Lucomagno (9115'; 5 hrs.), "Piz Bias 
(9920 1 ; 5'/2 hrs.), and "Piz Rondadura (9905' ; 51/2-6 hrs.). — The path to 
Santa Maria (3 3 /« hrs. ; porter 7fr.) leads round the lake, to the left. By the 
(20 min.) Ritom Chalets we ascend a good path, to the left, to the (20 min.) 
chapel of San Carlo. Crossing the brook, and passing a cross on the right 
(leaving the small lake of Cadagno, with its chalets, to the left), we reach 
(V« hr.) the Alp Piora and P/4 hr.) Murinascio, a group of huts. The path, 
indicated by crosses, leads straight on for '/ihr., and then ascends to the 
left. Farther on it always bears to the left. [The last huts of Piano de' Porci 
lie to the right, below. Persons bound for Olivone may from this point 
cross direct by the Passo Columbe (7792'), between the Scai and Piz Columbe, 
to the Casaccia hospice; p. 410.] We ascend the secluded Val Termine, with 
the Piz delV Uomo (9020') on the left, to the ( 3 / t hr.) Uomo Pass (7257'; 
10 min. before which is a good spring by a heap of stones), with its de- 
serted hut. Descent on the other side by a bad path, marshy at places. 
To the left the Medelser Rhine descends from the Val Cadlimo in a fine 
fall. Before us, to the right, rises the Scopi, to the left the distant Todi 
chain. The (1 1/2 hr.) Hospice 0/ St. Maria, see p. AW. Thence to Disentis, or 
across the Lukmanier to Olivone, see R. 95. 

Below Airolo the train crosses the Ticino, which descends from 
the Val Bedretto (p. 341), passes through a tunnel (209 yds.), and 
enters the Stretto di Stalvedro. On the left bank of the Ticino the 
highroad runs through four apertures in the rock. The valley 
expands. 69y 2 M. Ambri-Piotta (3250'; Restaurant Soldini ; Bras- 
serie Piottd). To the left lies Quinto. Beyond (72 1 / 2 M.) Bodi-Fiesso 
(3100' ; Hotel-Pens. Helvetia) we come to one of the most curious 
paTts of the line (comp. Map, p. 125 ; walk to Faido recommended). 
The Platifer (Monte Piottino) here juts into the valley from the N. ; 
the Ticino has forced a passage through the barrier, descending in a 
series of falls through a wild gorge to a lower region of the valley, 
while the railway descends by means of two circular tunnels. At 
Dazio Grande it crosses the Ticino, is carried through two tunnels, 
and the Freggio Loop Tunnel (1712 yds.), and emerges into the 
Piottino Ravine, 118' lower down. It then recrosses the Ticino (fine 
scenery), passes through the Monte Piottino and Pardorea tunnels, 
and descends 118' more by means of the Prato Loop Tunnel (1711 
yds.), beyond which opens the beautiful valley of Faido. Bridge 
across the Ticino, and another tunnel. 

771/2 M. FaidO. — Hotels: "Hotel-Pension Suisse, R.2-3, B. iy 4 , dej. 
2V2, D. 37a, pens. 5-8 fr. ; Hotel Faido, both at the station; ,;, H6t.-Pens. 
Angelo, R. 2-3, B. I1/4, dej. 21/2, D. 3V2, pens. 5-7 fr. ; "Hot. -Pens. Fkansioli, 
R. 2-3, B. 1, dt'j. 2, D. 3, pens. 5-7 fr. ; Hotel Vella, these three in the 
village. — Restaurant Belgeri: Bin-aria Rosian. 

Faido (2475' ; pop. 861), the capital of the Leventina, very pic- 
turesquely situated, is frequented as a summer-resort. In the Piazza 
Grande is the statue of the Swiss educationist and statistician 
Stefano Franscini, born here in 1796. On the right the Piumogna 
descends to the Ticino in a fine fall. 

Baedeker, Switzerland 19th Edition- 9 



1 30 II. Route 32. BIASCA. 

The Valle Leventina, or Ticino Valley, formerly belonged in common 
to the thirteen confederated cantons (with the exception of Appenzell), and 
was governed most despotically by bailiffs, who purchased their appoint- 
ments. A revolt broke out in 1755, but was suppressed by the Swiss" troops. 
The French put an end to this mode of government in 1798, and in 18li 
the Congress of Vienna formed the Leventina and other Italian districts 
into the canton of Tessin or Ticino. 

From Faido over the Predelp Pass to the Luhmanier, see p. 410; over 
the Campolungo Past to the Tal Maggia, see p. 474. 

We now traverse beautiful scenery, richly wooded with walnut 
and chestnut trees, on the left bank of the Ticino. To the right, Chig- 
giogna, with an old church. From the cliffs on both sides fall several 
cascades, the veil-like fall of the Cribiasca on the right, near (82 M.) 
Lavorgo (2025'), being the finest. Huge masses of rock lie scat- 
tered about, interspersed with fine chestnut-trees. Below Lavorgo 
the Ticino forces its way through the picturesque Biaschina Ravine 
to a lower part of the valley, and forms a fine fall, while the railway 
descends about 300' on the left bank by means of two loop-tunnels, 
one below the other in corkscrew form. We pass through the La Lume 
Tunnel, cross the Pianotondo Viaduct (114yds. long), and enter the 
Pianotondo Loop Tunnel (1643 yds.; descent of 115'). Then the 
short Tourniquet Tunnel, the Travi Viaduct, and the Travi Loop 
Tunnel (1706 yds. ; descent of 118'), from which we emerge upon 
the floor of the lower Valle Leventina. Crossing the Ticino, we 
reach — 

86 M. Giornico (1480'). The village (1295'; Posta, Cervo, both 
well spoken of), lying among vineyards on the left bank, l l / t M. to 
the S. , has an old Lombard tower and remains of fortifications near 
the church of Santa Maria di Castello. The church of San Niccolb 
da Mira is early Romanesque. Below Giornico we cross the Ticino 
again. On the right is the pretty fall of the Cramosina. 

90 M. Bodio (1090'). Beyond Polleygio (Corona) the Brenno 
descends from the Val Blenio (p. 394) on the left, and is crossed by 
two bridges. The Ticino valley expands, and takes the name of Ri- 
viera down to the mouth of the Moe'sa. Luxuriant vines, chestnuts, 
walnuts, mulberries, and fig-trees indicate that we are nearing 'the 
garden of the earth, fair Italy'. The vines extend their dense foliage 
over wooden trellis-work supported by stone pillars, G-10' in height. 

94 M. Biasca (970' ; Rail. Restaurant; in the village, l / 2 'Mi. to the 
N., Union el Poste, mediocre), with an old Romanesque church on 
a hill (1112'). A series of oratories near the station ascends to the 
Petronilla Chapel, near which is a pretty waterfall. — To Olivone, 
and over the Lukmanier to Disentis, see R. 95. 

The train skirts the richly clothed E. slopes of the valley, which 
is very hot and dusty in summer. Two tunnels. 97 ! /2 M. Osogna 
(870' ; Posta} lies at the foot of an abrupt round rock. 101 M. Claro 
(830') lies at the base of the Pizzo di Claro (8930'), a beautiful 
mountain with luxuriant pastures, on the slope of which, on a spur 
to the left, stands the monastery of Santa Maria (2074'). Beyond 



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GOSCHENEN-ALP. II. Route 33. 131 

(103 l /2 M.) Castione (800') we pass the mouth of the Val Mesocco 
(p. 419) and cross the Moesa. To the left lies Arbedo (p. 419). Be- 
yond a short tunnel we come in sight of Bellinzona, with its three 
old castles. 

1051/2 M. Bellinzona (760'), see p. 465. 

From Bellinzona to Lugano and Como, see p. 466 j to Locarno, 
see p. 471 ; to Luino, see p. 475. 



33. From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard. 

2IV2 M. Diligence from Goschenen to Andermatl thrice daily in 1 hr. 
(fare 1 fr. 40, coupe" 1 fr. 70 c.) ; to Hospenthal twice in I1/2 hr. (2 fr. 10 
or 2 fr. 55 c). No diligence from Hospenthal over the St. Gotthard. Omni- 
buses from the Goschenen station to the Andermatt (U/s fr.) and Hospen- 
thal hotels (2 fr.). Carriage and pair from Goschenen to Andermatt 10, to 
Hospenthal 20, to the Hospice 35-10, to Airolo 60-65 fr. ; from Andermatt to 
the Hospice 30, to Airolo 50 fr. ; from Hospenthal to the Hospice 25 (there 
and hack 30 fr.), to Airolo 45 fr. Carriage with one horse from Goschenen 
to Andermatt 8, to Hospenthal 12 fr. ; from Hospenthal to the Hospice 15 
(there and back 20 fr.). Driver's fee, 10 per cent of the fare. 

The St. Gotthard was probably the most frequented of Alpine passes 
till the beginning of the 19th century, but was gradually deserted for the 
new roads over the Simplon, the Spliigen, and the Bernardino. In 1820-32 
the cantons of Uri and Ticino constructed the carriage-road, which was 
much frequented for half-a-century, but since the completion of the rail- 
way is again deserted. It is still interesting to drive or walk over the 
pass. On foot from Goschenen to Andermatt, l-l'/i hr. ; thence to Hospen- 
thal, 35 min. ; thence to the Hospice, 2 3 /4 hrs. ; and thence to Airolo, 2-2 ] /2 hrs., 
or by footpaths, l 3 /< hr. Those whose object is to make excursions from 
the Hospice will reach it more quickly from Airolo than from Goschenen 
(3 hrs.; one-horse carr. 15, two-horse 30 fr. and fee). Early in the morn- 
ing almost the whole way from Airolo to Hospenthal is in the shade. 

Goschenen (3640'), on the St. Gotthard Railway, see p. 127. 

The G6schenen-Thal (3 hrs. to the Gbschenen-Alp ; guide, 6 fr., un- 
necessary; horse 15 fr.) deserves a visit. A good path (red marks) leads 
by Abfrult to (l'/i hr.) Wicki (4350'), where the Voralp-Thal opens to the 
right (see below); then by St. Niklaus and the Brindlistaffel (5033') to the 
(i 3 / 4 hr.) Gbschenen-Alp (5935'; Hdtel- Pension Dammaglelscher, R. 3-4, B. I1/2, 
de'j. 3'/2, D. 4, pens, from 8 fr.), grandly situated. To the W. descends the 
beautiful Damma Glacier from the Winterberg ; and 1 hr. farther up the 
valley the Gbschenen-Reuss issues from the Kehle Glacier, imbedded be- 
tween the Winterberg and Steinberg. Pleasant walks may be taken to the 
(1 hr.) Damma Glacier, the (IV2 hr.) Kehle Glacier, the (IV2 hr.) Bergsee 
(7710'), and the (2y 2 hrs.) Kehlen-Alp (7560'). The ascent of the Moosstock 
(8400'; 3V2hrs.; guide) is easy and very attractive. More difficult (for 
adepts only) are the Dammastock (11,920'), Rhonestock (11,8?5'), and Schneestock 
(11,837'; guide in each case 35 fr.); these are better assailed from the 
Trift-HUtte (p. 152). — A toilsome but very interesting path (5'/2-6 hrs. ; 
guide 15 fr.) leads from the Gbschenen-Alp over the Alpligen Glacier and 
the Alpligen-Liicke (9115'), between the Lochberg and Spilzberg (p. 138), 
to Bealp (p. 139). The "Lochberg (10,130' ; splendid view of the Galenstock 
and St. Gotthard groups) is ascended in 1 hr. from the pass. — Over the 
Winterlilcke to the Furka, seep. 139. — Several difficult passes, for experts 
only, cross from the Gbschenen-Alp to the Rhone and Trift Glaciers ( Winter- 
ioch, Damma Past, Maasplank-Joch ; comp. p. 152). Over the Susten-Limmi 
(10,180') or the Thierberg-Limmi (about 10,500') to the Steinalp , 9 hrs., 
laborious (see p. 153). — Ascent of the Fleckistock (11,215' ; 7-8 hrs. ; guide 
35 fr.), for experts only, difficult. We ascend from Wicki (see above) 

9* 



132 II.R.33. — Map,p. 130. DEVIL'S BRIDGE. From Obschenen 

through the Voralp Thai, past the chalets of Hornfeli, Bodmen, and Flachen- 
stein, to the (2Vs hrs.) Voralp Hut of the Swiss Alpine Club (7120'), finely 
situated at the foot of the Wallenbtthlfirn ; thence we mount to the right 
to the Fliihe (7875'), and over loose stones and steep rocks to the summit 
(5 hrs. from the club hut). The Kiihplankenstock (10,575' ; 3>/2 4 hrs. ; guide 
30 fr.), Stucklistock (10,855' ; 41/2 hrs. ; 35 fr.), and Sustenhorn (11.520'; 5-51/2 hrs.; 
30 fr.) may also be ascended from the Voralp Hut (for experts only). Over 
the Wallenbuhlfirn and the Susten-Joch (8717') to the ifeien- Thai, with de- 
scent through the Kalchthal (p. 153), steep and difficult; fine view from 
the col. Guides: Jos. and Barth. Gamma, Frz. Senn, Christ. Gerig, Mich. 
Hoffmann, Xav. Tretch, and others, at Gbschenen. 

Above the Goschenen station the *St. Gotthabd Road crosses 
the Reuss by the Vordere or Haderli Brucke (3720'). On the left 
are the railway-bridge and the N. end of the great tunnel. Here, 
l / i M. beyond Goschenen , begins the sombre defile of the *Sch61- 
lenen (2y 2 M. long), bounded by lofty and almost perpendicular 
granite rocks, at the base of which dashes the Reuss. The road 
ascends in windings, most of which may be cut off by footpaths or by 
the old bridle-path, passing the dilapidated Lange Brucke (a little 
above which are the Gbschenen water-works, with a large waterfall), 
and crossing the (1 M.) Sprengibriick (4048'). The road in the 
Schollenen is much exposed to avalanches, and at one of the most 
dangerous points is protected by a gallery, 60yds. long. Travellers 
should not approach too near to the edge of the road which is un- 
dermined at places. 

The road next crosses (3 M . from Goschenen) the (1 1/2 M.) *Devil's 
Bridge {Teufelsbrucke, 4593'), amidst grand rocky scenery. The 
Reuss here falls into an abyss 100' below, bedewing the bridge with 
its spray. The wind often comes down the gorge in violent gusts. 
The new bridge , built of granite in 1830 , has a single arch of 26' 
span. The old bridge , 20' below, carried away by a flood in 1888, 
was the scene of fierce conflicts, in Aug. and Sept., 1799, between 
the French on the one side and the Austrians and Russians under 
Suvoroff on the other, the former being compelled to retreat to the 
Lake of Lucerne. In memory of this event the Suvoro/f Monument, 
consisting of a large granite cross, 39' high, was erected in 1899 in 
a niche on the face of the rocks, to the left, above the bridge. On 
the pedestal is a Russian inscription. 

Beyond the Devil's Bridge (cabaret; collection of St. Gotthard 
minerals) the road winds upwards, passing new fortifications (see 
below), to the (V4 M.) Urner Loch (4642'), a tunnel 70 yds. long, 
cut through the rock in 1707, originally broad enough for the bridle- 
path only. Both above and below the Urner Loch, as well as at 
Andermatt and Hospenthal, strong fortifications have been erected, 
and roads have been made from below the Devil's Bridge to theBatt- 
berg and from the Oberalp to the top of the Musch (not accessible). 

The TJrseren Valley, on which the road emerges from the dark 
L'rner Loch, contrasts strikingly with the wild region just quitted. 
This peaceful green valley (p. 138), watered by the Reuss, is about 



to Airolo. ANDERMATT. Map,p.l30.—II.R.33. 133 

8 M. long and i/ 2 _1 M. broad, and is surrounded by lofty and barren 
mountains partially covered with snow. Corn grows but scantily, 
and trees are scarce. Winter lasts nearly eight months, and during 
the short summer fires are often necessary. Near Andermatt ( 3 /4 M. 
from the tunnel), on the left, is a training-camp of Swiss artillery. 

3 l J2 M. Andermatt. — Hotels: "Hot.-Pens. Bellevue, a large house, 
in an open situation, 1/4 M. from the village, R. 31/2-8, B. H/2, dej. 31/2, 
D. 5, pens. 8-15 fr. ; adjacent, Hotel-Restaurant du Toueiste, well spoken 
of, R. 2-4, B. f/4, D. 2V2, pens. 7-8 fr. ; opposite, Hotel Nager, K. 1-3, 
B. 11/4, D. 2 l /2, pens. 5-7 fr. ; *Grand Hotel Danioth, at the upper end 
of the village, R. 31/2-5, B. I1/2, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 7-12 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. 
Oberalp. R. from 3 fr.; "St. Gotthaed, R. 2V2-4, B. I1/2, D. 4, S. 3, 
pens. 6 8 fr.; 'Cocronne, R. 21/2-3, B. I1/4, D. 3, S. 21/2, pens. 7-8 fr. ; 
•Hot. des Teois Eois, R. 2, B. 1, D. 3, pens. 6 J /2-7 fr. ; Sonne. — English 
Church Service at the Bellevue. 

Andermatt (4738'; pop. 711), or Vrseren, Ital. Orsera, the 
principal village in the valley, and the junction for the Oberalp 
Road (R. 04), lies in a treeless neighbourhood. Adjoining the church 
is a charnel-house adorned with skulls bearing inscriptions. By the 
artillery camp (see above) is a much older church, said to date from 
the time of the Lombards (restored and embellished with frescoes 
representing the spread of Christianity in the Urseren valley; 
closed). The Mariahilf Chapel affords a good survey : to the W. the 
barren grey Batzberg, in the background the Furka with its inn, to 
the left the Muttenhorn ; a few paces beyond the chapel the Badus 
(see below) is visible; to the E., in long zigzags, ascends the Ober- 
alp road (p. 409). Above the village is a Bannwald (p. 124). 

Excursions. To the "Hot. Oberalpsee hy the Oberalp road, a walk or 
drive of 2 hrs. (one-horse carr. 15, two-horse 25 fr.) ; thence to the Calmot 
(I1/4 hr.), or to the Stock (l 3 /» hr. ; incl. the Lautersee, 21/4 hrs.), both easy 
and interesting (see p. 408). — The Badus or Six-Madun (9615'), the huge 
outpost of the Alps of the Grisons, is ascended from Andermatt in 4V2-5 hrs. 
(toilsome; guide 15 fr. ; better from the Hot. Oberalpsee, p. 409). The 
summit, which consists of blocks of gneiss, commands numberless peaks 
of the Alps of the Grisons, Bern, and the Valais, the TJrseren-Thal, and 
the whole of the Vorder-Rheinthal. — The Gurschenstock (9423 r ; 4 hrs. ; 
guide 15 fr.) and Qamsstock (9728'; 4 hrs. ; 12 fr.) are also fine points. 

From Andermatt over the Oberalp to Coire, R. 94; over the Furka to 
the Rhone Glacier, R. 35; over the Unteralp Pass to Airolo (8 hrs.), p. 128. 

Between Andermatt and Hospenthal we observe the Olacier of 
St. Anna, high above the brow of the mountain to the left. 

51/2 M. Hospenthal (4870'; *Meyerhof, R. 2-4, B. 1% dej. 3, 
D. 4, pens. 7-10 fr. ; *Goldner Lowe, with restaurant, R. 2-3, B. li/ 4 , 
de"j. 21/2, D- 3, pens, from 6 fr.; Kreuz # Post, R. iy 2 , B. 1, 
pens. 5 fr., well spoken of; Stem, R. 1-2, B. 1, pens. 4-5 fr., 
Schdfli, both unpretending ; guide, Sam. Camenzind) was formerly 
the seat of the barons of Hospenthal, of whose castle the ancient 
tower on the hill is a relic. Engl. Ch. Service in summer in the 
Meyerhof. The Furka Road (R. 35) diverges here to the right. 

The St. Gotthard road winds up through a bleak valley, on the 
left bank of that branch of the Reuss which descends from Lake 
Lucendro (p. 134). A short-cut diverges to the left by the second 



134 II. R. 33.— Map. p. 130. ST. GOTTHARD. From Gotchentn 

house beyond the Reuss bridge. Pleasant retrospects of the Ur- 
seren-Thal and the jagged Spitzberge (p. 138), and, to the W., of the 
Galenstock. To the left of the bleak (3 M.) Gamaboden opens the 
abrupt Guapia-Thal, at the head of which are the Gutpia Glacier 
and the Pizzo Centrale (see below). At a bend in the road ( 3 / 4 M.) 
is the first Cantoniera (5876'; closed), at the foot of the Winterhom 
(see below). The road enters Canton Ticino, passes the dilapidated 
second Cantoniera, and crosses the Reuss, near its outflow from the 
Lake of Lucendro, by the (3 M.) Rodont Bridge (6620'). 

To the "lake of Lucendro (6835') a digression of >/j hr. The path 
diverges below the Rodont Bridge (left bank), leads over rocks to the 
('/4 hr.) beautiful green lake, and skirts its N. bank. To the S. the grand 
Piz Lucendro (9708'), to the W. the YwerberhBrner (9265'), Piz dell' Uomo 
(8820'), etc. — The path crosses the Reuss at its exit from the lake, and 
rejoins the St. Gotthard road at the top of the pass. 

On the (1 M.) Pass of St. Gotthard (6935') the road passes 
between several small lakes. 

The St. Gotthard is a mountain-group, 160 sq. M. in area, with a 
number of different peaks, extensive glaciers, and about thirty small lakes. 
The pass is a barren depression, destitute of view, bounded on the E. by the 
precipitous Sasso di San Ooltardo (8235'), and on the W. by the rocks of the 
Fibbia (8995') and the Pizzo la Valletta (8334'). The chief peaks of the St. 
Gotthard are: E., the Monte Prosa (8983') and Pizzo Centrale (9850'); W., 
the Pit Lucendro (9708'), Ywerberhom (9265'), Piz delV Uomo (8820'), and 
Winterhom or Piz Ortino (8747'); then, more to the W., the Leckihom 
(10,070'). Muttenhorn (10,184'), Pizzo Pesciora (10,250'), Pizzo Rotondo (iO^SO 1 ), 
and Kiihhodenhorn (10,080'). — The St. Gotthard is famous for its rich 
Alpine flora, and for its highly interesting geological formation. Many 
rare min. rals aie found here. All the approaches to the St. G< tthard are 
guarded by modern fortifications, with a total circumference of nearly 40 Jl. 

133/4 M. *H6tel Monte Prosa (6870'; R. 2-3, B. l'/ 2 , D- 4, 
pens. 8-9 fr. ; telephone to Airolo) , 5 min. to the S. of the pass. 
Opposite, to the right (W.), are its 'dependance', the old Albergo 
del San Gottardo, and (left) the former Hospice. On a rock a little 
to the S. is the old Mortuary Chapel. 

Excursions. (The servant' of the hotel act as guidrs for the shorter 
excursions, and their services are charged in the bill at the full rate of 
the guides' tariff.) To ihe Borescia or Scara Orell (7350'), pleasant (1 hr. ; 
guide unnecessary). We descend the road to the S., cross the Ticino, 
and ascend a narrow path to the left. Fine view, especially of the Ticino 
Alps, the Cristallina, Campo Tencia, Basodino, etc. Descent to the Sella 
vallev inadvisable, there being no bridge over the Ticino. 

"Pizzo Centrale (9850'; 3'/2hrs.; guide 10 fr.), fatiguing, but most in- 
teresting. Beyond the hospice we cross the brook to the left, and ascend 
the slnpe of the Sasso San Gottardo over detritus to the entrance of the 
Sella Valley, through which the route leads. To the left, Mte. Prosa (see 
below). We skirt the slope high above the Sella Lake (7320') and ascend 
snow-fields to the base of the peak, which consists of crumbling horn- 
blende. 'View of striking magnificence, embracing almost all the highest 
mountains in Switzerland (panorama by A. Heim). The ascent is also made 
from Hospenthal in 4>/2-5 hrs., via the Qamtboden and the Qvtpis-Thal (see 
above). — Monte Prosa (8983'; 2'/i hrs. ; guide 7 fr.), less interesting. By 
the hut above the Sella Lake (i'/i hr.) we diverge to the left from the 
Pizzo Centrale path, and ascend pour pastures and patches of snow to 
the (»/i hr.) saddle (8520') between the Prosa and Blauberg. Then to the 
left, up the ar8te, and lastly over sharp rocks to Oh hr.) the top. TheW. 
peak, 41' higher than the E., is separated from it by a cleft 20' deep. 



to Airolo. ST. GOTTHAED. Map,p.l30. — II. B.33. 135 

The Fibbia (8995'; 2'/2 bra.; guide 7 fr.), a gigantic rock which com- 
mands the St. Gotthard road on the W. and descends suddenly to the Val 
Tremola, is fatiguing. Excellent survey of the St. Gotthard group, the 
valley of the Ticino, and the Ticino Alps. — *Piz Lucendro (9708'; 3'/a- 
4 hrs. ; guide, 10 fr., unnecessary for the experienced), a fine point, free 
from difficulty. From the Lucendro Lake (p. 131) we ascend by the 
Lucendro Alp and the depression between the Ywerberhorner and the 
Pizzo la Valletta to the Lucendro Glacier and gradually mount to the rocky 
summit. — Leckihom (10,070'), see below. — 'Pizzo Rotondo (10,490"): the 
highest peak of the St. Gotthard group, from the Hotel Prosa in 7-8 hrs. (guide 
30 fr.), difficult. We follow the Lecki Pass route (see below) past the Piz 
Lucendro to the Wyttenwasser Glacier, ascend to the left to the Wyttenwasser 
Past (9365') and skirt the precipitous slopes of the Pizzo Eotondo to the 
Passo Rotondo (9690'), whence we climb to the left to the summit (p. 128). 

Passes. Over the Oesino Pass to Bealp, not difficult for adepts (4 ! /2 
hrs.; guide advisable). We ascend either from the Rodont Bridge (p. 134) 
across the stony Bodont Alp and past the Orsino Lake (7515'), or from the 
Lucendro Lake to the N.W. over grassy slopes, past the Orsirora Lake 
(8058'; to the left), to the Orsino Pass (8150 1 ), to the S.W. of Piz Orsino 
(p. 134) ; striking view (S.) of the St. Gotthard group from the Furka to the 
Fibbia, (N.W.) of the Finsteraarhorn and Agassizhorn, and (K.) of the Ga- 
lenstock and Dammastock range as far as the Sustenhorner and Titlis. 
Descent over the pastures of the Eisenmanm-Alp and then (steep) through 
brushwood, intersected by many small water-courses and ravines, to Eealp 
(p. 139). 

Ovee the Lecki Pass to the Fdrka (10-11 hrs., guide 30 fr.), fatiguing, 
but repaying at places. From the Lucendro Lake to the Lucendro Glacier, 
see p. 131; thence across the depression to the N. of Piz Lucendro (ascent 
highly recommended, see p. 134) to the Wyttenwatser-Thal and the Cavanna 
Pass (p. 139). We then traverse the Wyttenwasser Glacier, pass the Huhner- 
stock, and reach (572-6 hrs.) theLecli Pass (9555'), lying to the N. of the 
Leckihom (10,070' ; easily ascended from the pass in '/a hr.). Descent across 
the Mutten Glacier, past the Muitenhbrner ; then an ascent between the Thier- 
berg and Blauberg to the small Schwarze Glacier, and down to the (4V2-5 hrs.) 
Furka Hotel (p. 139). — Or we may proceed from the Wyttenwasser Glacier 
to the Wyttenwasser Pass (9365') and the Passo Rotondo (see above) and thence 
descend to AW Aequo in the Val Bedretto (p. 341 ; 10 hrs. from the Hotel 
Prosa, an interesting expedition for experienced mountaineers). 

From the Hospice to Airolo is a walk or drive of 2-2 1 /^ hrs. ; in 
the reverse direction 3 hours. In winter and spring the snow-drifts 
on the roadside are often 30-40' high, and they sometimes remain 
throughout the summer. Snow-storms and avalanches are most pre- 
valent on the S. side. About ^ M. to the S.E. the road crosses that 
branch of the Ticino which issues from the Sella Lake (p. 134), and 
enters the Val Tremola, a dismal valley endangered by avalanches ; 
it then descends past the Cantoniera San Giuseppe (6010') in nu- 
merous windings, avoided by the old bridle-path. Rich Alpine flora. 
At the Cantoniera di Val Tremola (5564') the Val Tremola ends, 
and the Valle Leventina (p. 130) begins. *View down to Quinto. 
To the right opens the Val Bedretto (p. 341), from which the main 
branch of the Ticino descends. 

21i/ 2 M. Airolo (3755'), see p. 128. 

Travellers going from the St. Gotthard to the Val Bedretto need not 
descend to Airolo, but save an hour by leaving the road below the Can- 
toniera di Val Tremola (see above), at the angle of the first great bend in 
the direction of the Val Bedretto. The path descends to the right, and at 
Fontana (p. 311) joins the road leading from Airolo to AH'Acqua. 



136 



34. The Maderaner-Thal. 



The 'Maderaner-Thal, a picturesque valley about 12 M. in length, 
enclosed by lofty mountains (N., the Oreat and Little Windgelte, the Great 
and Little Ruchen, and the Scheerliorn; S., the Bristenstock, Weitenalpstock, 
Oberalpstock, and Diissistock), and watered by the turbulent Karstelenbach, 
is worthy of a visit. Bridle-path (shaded in the early morning) from 
Amsteg to the (3'/4 hrs.) HOtel Alpenclub (porter 8, horse 12 fr., there and 
back within two days 24 fr.). Beautiful return-route via the Stafeln (aee 
below), 6-7 hrs., practicable even for ladies. 

Amsteg (1712'), see p. 125. We diverge from the St. Gotthard 
road on the left bank of the Karstelenbach and ascend by a good 
zigzag path, passing under the huge railway-bridge (p. 126; 178' 
high), to the St. Antoni-Kapelle ; then, through gently sloping pastures 
and orchards, to (50 min.) the hamlet of Bristen (2615'; Pension 
Fedier, R. li/ 2l B. 1, pens. 5-6 fr.). The path descends a little, 
crosses by (5 min.) an iron bridge to the right bank of the foaming 
Karstelenbach, and again ascends. After 7 min. we avoid a bridge 
to the right, leading to the narrow Etzli-Tha I (see p. 138), in which, 
'/j hr. farther up, is a fine waterfall. After 20 min. the path 
recrosses by the Thal-Briicke (2685') to the left bank and leads 
to the (5 min.) houses Am Schattigen Berg. It then ascends rapidly 
to (40 min.) the top of the Lungenstutz (3600'; two taverns), and 
(8 min.) a cross commanding a fine view. Passing through wood 
at places, we next cross the Qriessenbach and the Staldenbach to 
(Vahr.) the chalets of Stossi (3904'). Crossing the Karstelenbach 
at a (5 min.) Saw Mill, and passing the houses of Balmwald on the 
right, we reach in 25 min. more the Balmenegg (4442') and the 
*H6tel-Pension zum Schweizer Alpenclub (R. 2-3, B. l 1 /^, D. 4, 
S. 3, pens. 7-9 fr. ; Engl. Church Service). Fine view from the 
terrace on the W. side. Pleasant wood-walks near. About J /2 M. 
from the hotel is the small Butzli-See (boat). 

To the Hun Glacier, an interesting walk (1 hr. ; guide unnecessary). 
From the inn a path, at first through wood, ascends the grassy slopes on 
the N. side of the valley (passing opposite the falls of the Brunnibach, the 
Stauberbach, and the Lammerbach), crosses the Spritzbach, the Seidenbach, 
and the Milchbdche, and ascends to (1 hr.) a rocky height (5385'), overlook- 
ing the glacier (which has greatly receded), from which the Karstelenbach 
issues. — The Seelegg (5725'), which rises to the S.W. above Lungenttutt (see 
above), is easily ascended, turning to the left at Stbssi, in 2 hrs. (guide). 
The "View includes the Ktv.li and Eeuss valleys, the Bristenstock, and the 
mountain chain to the N. of the Maderaner-Thal. 

Beautiful return -route to Amsteg by the *Stafeln (6-7 hrs. ; 
guide 8 fr., not indispensable for experts), the lofty pastures on the 
N. side of the valley. We may either ascend from the hotel by a 
steep path through wood ('Eselsweg') direct to the (l'/4 hr.) Stafel- 
Alp; or we may first proceed to the above-mentioned rock over- 
looking the Iliifl Glacier (1 hr.), and then ascend by a zigzag path 
via the Trilt to the (1 hr.) Alp Gnof (6216'), the ( 3 / 4 hr.) Stafel- 
Alp (6285'), and the f'^hr.) Alp Bcrnetsmatt (6555'). Magnificent 
view of the Hiifl Glacier, Clariden Pass, Diissistock, Tschingel Gla- 



MADERANER-THAL. Map,p.80. — II.R.34. 137 

cier, Oberalpstock, Weitenalpstock, Crispalt, Bristenstock, Galen- 
stock, Spitzliberg, the Windgellen, and Ruchen. [A still finer view, 
especially of the Windgellen , is to be had from the * Widderegg 
(7840'), iy 4 hr. from Bernetsmatt and 3 hrs. from the Hot. Alpen- 
club via, the Stafel-Alp, with guide.] We then descend rapidly to 
the pretty Oolzeren-See (4625'; Alpine fare) and the (1 hr.) Oolzeren- 
Alp (4583'), and lastly descend in zigzags through underwood to 
the hamlet of (l J /2 nr Bristen and [}/i hr.) Amsteg (to the station 
J/4 hr. more). 

Excursions from the Hotel Alpenclob. (Guides: Ambros, Carl Ambros, 
and Josef Zgraggen ; Josef, Josef Maria, Melch., and Joh. Jos. Tresch; Joh. 
and Jos. Gnos; M. Fedier, and others; ordinary excursions, 8 fr. per day.) 
The ascent of the Diissistock (Piz Git, 10,702'; 6-7 hrs.; guide 25 fr.) is 
difficult and requires experience. The path leads up the Brunni-Thal to 
the (2 hrs.) Walters firr en- Alp (6330'), ascends to the left to the (2 hrs.) Resti- 
Tschingel Glacier, and crosses it; we then clamber over the precipitous 
rocks of the Kleine Dilssi (10,280') and ascend the arete to the (2 hrs.) summit. 
Splendid view. — The 'Oberalpstock (Piz Tgietschen, 10,925'; guide 20 fr., 
with descent to Disentis 25 fr.) presents no serious difficulty to adepts. 
We either proceed from the Alpenclub Hotel by the Brunni Pass route 
(p. 138) to the upper part of the (47s-5 hrs.) Brunni Glacier (p. 138), 
and mount over the snowy slopes on the right to the summit in 2-2>/2 hrs. ; 
or (harder) ascend from the Kreuzli Pass (p. 138) across the Slrim Glacier 
(7-8 hrs. to the top). Ascent from Sedrun (6V2-6 hrs.), see p. 407. — 
Weitenalpstock (9870'), from the Alp Culma, on the Kreuzli Pass route 
(4 hrs. from Amsteg), over the Weilen-Alp in 4V2 hrs., very toilsome (guide 
25 fr.). — Bristenstock (10,085'), see p. 125. — Piz Cambriales (10,540'; 
25 fr.), 4-5 hrs. from the Hufi Club Hut (see below), and Claridenstock 
(10,730'; 25 fr.), 5 hrs. from the club-hut, not very difficult for practised 
climbers. Kammli stock (10,624' ; 25 fr.), 4 hrs. from the club-hut, by the 
Kammli-Liicke (see below), laborious. — The Grosse Windgelle or Kalkstock 
(10,470'), from the Alp Bernetsmatt (p. 136) by the Stafel Glacier in 5 hrs. 
(guide 30 fr.), very difficult and sometimes dangerous. — The Grosse Scheer- 
horn (10,815'), from the Hufi Club Hut by the Hufifirn in 5 hrs. (guide 25 fr.), 
not very difficult in a favourable state of the snow. — The Grosse Ruchen 
(10,290'), from the Alp Gnof (p. 136; 4 hrs. ; guide 20 fr.), not very difficult, 
but fatiguing. — The Kleine Windgelle (9800'), from the Ober-Kasem Alp 
(6390' ; 3 l /2 hrs. from Amsteg, •/« hr. from Bernetsmatt) in 3'/2 hrs. (guide 
20 fr.), not very difficult. 

Passes. To Linthai, over the Clariden Pass, 11-12 hrs. from the 
Alpenclub Hotel, a grand and most interesting expedition, without serious 
difficulty to experts with able guides (35 fr.). We ascend the slopes of 
the Diissistock (see above), on the left bank of the Hufi Glacier, to the 
(31/2 hrs.) new and finely situated Hufi- Alp Club Hut (7670'; spend night). 
Then over the moraine to the Hufi Glacier, and gradually up the Hufifirn 
and Claridenfirn to the (3 hrs.) Clariden Pass (9740'), between the Hinler 
Spitzalpeli- Stock (9852 1 ) and the Claridenhorn (10,184'; fine view of the 
Todi, the Bheinwaldgebirge, etc.). We then descend the Claridenfirn, 
passing the Bocktschingel, a rock with a hole through it, and the Gems- 
fayrenstock (p. 80), to the (2 hrs.) Clarida Club Hut on the Altenoren- 
stock (7865' ; p. 80), whence we proceed via, the Wangen-Alp to (3 hrs.) Linthai 
(p. 80). Or from the Hufifirn we may cross the Planura or Hun Pass 
(§645'), between the Hinter Spitzalpeli- Stock and the Catscharauls (10,045'), 
to the Sandfirn, and then either descend to the left to the Upper Sandalp 
(p. 81) or to the right by the Sandgrat to Disentis (p. 406 ; guide 30 fr.). — 
Another grand but difficult pass to Urnerboden or Unterschachen (10 hrs. 
from the Alpenclub Hotel; guide 35 fr.) is the Kammli-Liicke (Scheerjoch; 
9364'), lying between the Scheerhorn and the '■ Kammlistock (see above). 
Ascent from the Hiifi-Alp Club Hut to the pass, 2'/2 hrs. Steep descent over 



138 II.R.35. — Map,p.l30. FURKA ROAD. 

precipitous ice-slopes to the Ories Glacier and via the Oemiplanggen to 
(he (2 hrs.) Kammli-Alp (clean chalets) and the ( 3 /« hr.) Klausen Pass (p. £2). 
Or from the Gries Glacier via the Ober-Alp to (2 3 /t hrs.) Aesch (p. 84) and 
(1 hr.) Untertchachen (p. 83). 

To Untersuhauhkn over the Ruchkehlen Pass (8790'), 8-9 hrs., laborious 
(guide 25 fr.). From the Alp Qnof (p. 136) we ascend precipitous grass- 
slopes, rock, and glacier to the pass, between the SuitelhSrner and the Qroste 
Ruchen, and descend steeply through the ice-clad Ruchkehle into the Brunni- 
Thai and Schachen-Thal (p. 83). — The Scheerhorn-Griggeli Page (9180') is 
also toilsome. The pass, between the Scheerhorn and the Kleine Ruchen, 
is reached from the H6t. Alpenclub (p. 136) direct in 5 hrs., or from the 
Hun Club Hut via the Hiiii Glacier and the Bocktschingelfrn in 4 hrs. De- 
scent via the Upper Lammerbach-Alp to (4 hrs.) Unterschdchin. 

To Disentis over the Brunni Pass (8975'), 8-9 hrs., interesting but 
fatiguing (guide 25 fr.). From the Alpenclub Hotel we ascend the Brunni- 
Thal by Rinderbiel and Waltersfirren (p. 137) to the (2>/2-3 hrs.) Brunni-Alp 
(6810'), cross the E. lateral moraine and the upper snow-fields of the Brunni 
lilacier to the (2'/j hrs.) pass between the Piz Cavardiras (9735') on the left 
and the Pit d'Acletla (9570') on the right, and descend through the Val 
Acletta, past the small Lac Serein, to Aeletta and (2V2 hrs.) Disentis (p. 4CIJ). 

From Amsteg over the Kreczli Pass to Skdedn, 9-10 hrs., fatiguing 
fguide 20 fr.). Through the Etzli-Thal to the pass (77100, 5>/ 2 hrs. ; thence 
down the Slrimthal to Sedrun (p. 407), 3'/2 hrs. 



35. From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. 
The Furka. 

25 M. Diligence in summer twice daily in 6V2 hrs. (9 fr. 85, coupe 
11 fr. 85 c); from Goschenen to Brigue daily in 12 (Brigue to Goschenen 
14) hrs., with 1/2 hr.'s halt at Tiefenbach and dinner at the Rhone Glacier 
Hotel (20 fr. 65, coupe" 25 fr. 15 c); from Goschenen over the Furka and 
Grimsel to Meiringen in IIV2 hrg. (19 fr. 15, coupe 23 fr. 5 c). — Walkers 
from Goschenen: to Andermatt IV4, Realp 2, the Furka 2'/» (return 2), 
Rhone Glacier 2 (return 2'/2) hrs. — Horse from Realp to Tiefenbach 5, 
Furka 8 fr. — Carriages: with one horse (for 2 pers. only) from Goschenen 
to Realp 10, with two horses 15 fr. ; to the Rhone Glacier ('Gletsch') 35 
and 65, Fiesch 55 and 100, Brigue 75 and 135, Meiringen 72 and 135 fr.; 
carr. and pair from Andermatt to Realp 15, the Furka 40, Rhone Glacier 60, 
Fiesch 90, Brigue 125 fr. ; from Hospenthal to Eealp, with one horse 6, 
two horses 10, to Furka 20 (there and back 25) and 35, Rhone Glacier 30 
and 50, Fiesch 50 and 90, Brigue 70 and 120 fr. ; from Realp to the Forks, 
with one horse 12, two horses 20 fr., Rhone Glacier 18 and 25 fr.; one- 
horse carriage from the Rhone Glacier to the Hotel Belvedere 20, two- 
horse 35 fr. ; to Hospenthal 25 or 40, Andermatt or Goschenen 30 or 60 fr. 

The 'Furka Road, constructed chiefly for military purposes, a con- 
venient route to or from the Grimsel and the Bernese Oberland, commands 
striking views of the Rhone Glacier and the Bernese and Valaisian Alps. 
From Realp onwards it should be traversed in an open carriage or on 
foot. Rich flora. 

To (5'/ 2 M.) Hospenthal (4870'), see p. 133. At the upper end 
of the village the road diverges to the right from the St. Gotthard 
route, ascends a little, and skirts the Realper Reuss in the bleak 
Urseren-Thal (p. 132). On each side rise steep grassy slopes, over- 
shadowed on the N. by the jagged pinnacles of the Spiteberge 
(10,050'). 2'/4 M. Zumdorf (4965'), a group of huts with a chapel. 
Farther on we cross the Reuss and the Lochbach, which descends 
from the Tiefen Glacier (p. 139), and soon reach (l 3 / 4 M.) — 



FURKA. Map,p.l30. — II.R.35. 139 

91/2 M. Eealp (5060'; *ffit. des Alpes, R. IV2-2V2, B. I1/4, 
D. 3, pens. 6-7 fr. ; Post, both plain), a hamlet at the W. end of 
the Urseren Valley. 

Over the Alpligen-Lilcke to (6 hrs.) the Gdschenen-Alp, see p. 131 ; over the 
Oriino Pats to the St. Gotthard, see p. 135. — From Eealp to Villa in the 
Val Bedretto (p. 341) by the Cavanna Pass (8565'), between the Pit Lucendro 
and Milhnerstock, 5 hrs., uninteresting. Guide, W. Ambroi of Eealp. 

Beyond Realp the road begins to ascend in long windings, 
which the old road to the right, 50 paces beyond the second bridge, 
'/ 2 M. from Realp, avoids, and then follows the telegraph-wires all 
the way to the H6t. G-alenstock. (In descending from the Furka we 
quit the new road a few hundred paces beyond the 50th kilometre 
stone, and descend by a few steps to the left.) Looking back, we 
soon obtain a fine view of the broad Urseren-Thal, with the zigzags 
of the Oberalp Road in the background (p. 409); on the left are the 
Wyttenwasser-Thal with its glacier, the Ywerberhorner, and the 
Piz Lucendro. By the last winding of the road (Fuchsenegg, 6595'), 
3'/2 M. from Realp, is the small Hdt.-Pens. Oalenstock (JR. l 1 ^"^, 
D. 3V2> pens. 6 fr., well spoken of). About IV4M. farther on, beyond 
the Ebneten Alp, is Tiefenbach (6790'; Hotel Tiefengletscher, R. l 1 ^- 
2"/ 2 , B. 1 fr. 30 c, de'j. 21/2, D- & l h fr.), where the diligence halts. 

By following the slope from this point and crossing the moraine, we 
reach (l'/i hr.; guide) the Tiefen Glacier, imbedded between the Galenstock 
and the Gletsehhorn (10,850'), where beautiful crystals (more than 12>/2 tons) 
were found in 1868 (p. 167). The Tiefen Glacier is highly interesting on 
account of its enormous crevasses (some of tbem upwards of 200' deep). 
— Over the Tie/en-Sattel or the Trift-Limmi to the Rhone fflaeier ( Orimsel, 
Trift-Biitte), see p. 152. — Over the Winterliicke (9450') to the GSschenen- 
Alp (p. 131), 6 hrs., with guide (15 fr.) ; steep descent to the Winter Glacier. 

The road crosses the Tiefentobel and ascends, running high up 
on the N. slope of the Oarschen-Thal. On the right lies the Siedeln 
Glacier, the discharge of which forms a fine fall ; above it rise the 
pinnacles of the Bielenstock (9670'). Before us rises the Furka- 
horn (p. 140). The (3 1/4 M.) — 

17 Y2 M. Furka (7990') is a saddle between the Muttenhorner 
on the left and the Furkahorner on the right, descending abruptly 
on both sides. We first reach, on the right, the barracks for the 
garrison of the fortifications (see p. 140) and the Hotel-Restaurant 
Furkablick (R. from 21/2, B. l»/ 2 , de'j. 3>/2-*» D. 4-5, pens. 9-12 fr.). 
A little farther on, to the left, is the *H6t.-Pens. Furka (R. 3-5, 
B. I72, dej. 4, D. 5, pens. 11-14 fr. ; post and telegraph office). 
Magnificent view of the Bernese Alps with the imposing Finster- 
aarhorn; to the left of it, the Oberaarhorn, Walliser Fiescher- 
horner, Siedelhorn, and "Wannehorn, and to the right, the Agassiz- 
horn and Schreckhorner. From the Signal, 10 min. from the hotel, 
we get a view of the Upper Valais and its Alps (Mischabelhorner, 
Matterhorn, Weisshorn, etc.); the *Kanzli, 25 min. from the hotel, 
also commands the upper part of the Rhone Glacier (advisable to 
have the way pointed out). To the left of the Hot. Furka diverges 



1 40 //. R. 35. — Map, p. 130. NAGELI'S GRATLI. 

the Langisgrat-Strasse , a new military road whioh walkers may 
follow to the (10 min.) *Schonblick, affording an admirable view 
of the Rhone Glacier, tho Grimsel Pass, and the Bernese Alps. 

Excursions (guides for the shorter tours at the hotels). "Furkahorn 
(9935'; 2>/ 2 hrs. ; guide, 7 fr.), fatiguing but repaying. A bridle-path, 
beginning near the Hotel Furkablick, leads past the barracks to a (1/2 hr.) 
military station, with a fine view; farther on (no path) we cross slopes 
of debris and snow to the (IV4 hr.) foremost summit (9260') and (»/« hr.) 
the chief summit. Admirable panorama of the Alps of Bern and the 
Valais, the Galenstock, St. Gotthard group, etc. — The Blauberg OHO 1 ), 
to the S. of the Furka road, is easily ascended by a new path in l'/s hr. 
(attractive; guide T fr., not indispensable). — "Muttenhorn (10,184'; 4 hrs. ; 
guide 10 fr.), to the S. of the Furka, a very fine point, not difficult. 

Galenstock (11,805'; 5 hrs. ; guide 15 fr.), not difficult for adepts, if 
the snow is favourable (axe and rope). From the Furka we ascend to the 
( 3 /« hr.) Shone Glacier (see below), skirt its left margin, climb a steep 
snowy slope to the right, a rocky arete, and lastly very steep n6v6 to the 
overhanging snowy summit (caution required). View exceedingly grand. 
Descent via the NagelVs Qratli to the Qrimsel (5 hrs.), see below. — 
Rhonestock (11,825'), iiammastock (11,920"), and Schneestock (11,837') from the 
Furka in about 6 hrs. each (guide 30 fr. ; difficult), see p. 131. 

From the Furka over the Lecki Pats and Pii Lvcendro to the St. Ooit- 
fiard (10 brs., with guide), see p. 135; over the Trift-Lirnmi to the Tri/t- 
Hiitte (to Innertkirchen 16 hrs. ; guide 40 fr.), see p. 152. 

To the Gkimsel (p. 210), 5 hrs. (guide necessary, 10 fr. ; alpenstock and 
nailed boots requisite). Walkers descend from the Furka by a good path, 
diverging to the right from the road l fe M. from the inn, to the ( 3 /» hr.) 
upper part of the Rhone Glacier, cross it above the ice-fall in V/i hr., 
ascend the P/4 hr.) *Nageli's Gratli (8150'), affording a splendid view of 
the Bernese and Valaisian Alps, and descend by a steep path along the 
face of the rocks to the (2 hrs.) Hospice (p. 2C9). 

The road follows the slope to the right, passing the new forti- 
fications of the Furka, to the (I74 M.) Galen- HiMen (7900') and 
descends to the left in long zigzags (shoTt-cuts for pedestrians), high 
ahove the huge *Rhone Glacier (p. 340), affording admirable views 
of its fantastic ice-masses. At the second bend of the road is the 
small Hotel Belvedere (7218'; well spoken of). A path leads hence 
in l /i hr., over the moraine, keeping to the left, to a point com- 
manding the upper part of the glacier, and to a glacier-grotto (adm. 
50 0.). A little below the Belvedere, to the right, is a short-cut 
leading direct to the point where the Rhone issues from the glacier 
and then skirting the infant stream to the Rhone Glacier Hotel. 
The road in the valley crosses the Muttbach and is joined on the 
left by the steep old bridle-path from the Furka (l'/4 hr-)- It then 
gradually descends the slope of the Langisgrat , and again de- 
scribes several long bends, which the old bridle-path, to the right, 
cuts off. Crossing the Rhone, we reach the (6^4 M.) — 

25 M. Rhone Glacier Hotel, in the 'Gletsch' (5775'; p. 340). 

From the Rhone Glacier to Brigue , see R. 80; over the Qrimsel to 
Meivingen, see R. 52. | 



141 



36. From Lucerne to Engelberg. 



Steamboat from Lucerne to Stansstad 8 times daily in 30-10 min.; fare 
1 fr. 40 or 70 c. (p. 113). — Electric Railway from Stansstad to (14 M.) 
Engelberg in I1/2 hr. (fares 5 fr. 5, 2 fr. 65 c. ; there and back 7 fr., 3 fr. 
70 c). Interesting journey, with quickly changing views. As far as (2 31.) 
Stans there is another electric tramway, used for local traffic and in con- 
nection with the Stanserhorn Railway (tickets of the Engelberg railway 
not available). — Travellers coming from the St. Gotthard viH the Lake 
of Lucerne do not need to go on to Lucerne, bat change steamers at 
Vitznau or Weggis and proceed direct to Stans (four times daily, in 50 min. ; 
fares 2 and 1 fr.). 

To Stansstad, see p. 114. The road (electric railway in l/ 4 hr.J 
runs between the Biirgenstock (p. 113) on the left and the Stanser 
Horn (see below) on the right. 

2 M. Stans (1500'; pop. 2794; *Engel, R. 17 2 -27 2 , B. lfr. 20c, 
D. 279-3, pens., except in August, 6-7 fr. ; *Hot.-Pens. Stanser Hof, 
R. 172-272, B. 1, D. 3, S. 2, pens. 5-6 fr.; Winkelried, R. 17 2 -27 2 , 
B.l, D. 272, pens. 4-6 fr.; Adler,R. I-I1/2, B.l,D.2-27 2 fr.; *Krone, 
R. 17 2 -2, B. 1, D.272, pens, from 3 72 ft" • ; Bossli), the capital of Nid- 
walden, the E. half of Canton Unterwalden, lies amidst a vast orchard, 
on which, however, from 11th Nov. to 2nd Feb. the sun shines for 
one hour only in the morning, between the Brisen (7900') and the 
Stanser Horn (see below). Adjoining the handsome Parish Church, 
a baroque building of 1641, is the *Monument of Arnold von Winkel- 
ried (p. 21), a fine group in marble by Schlbth (1865). A tablet by 
the Burial Chapel in the churchyard, on the N. side of the church, 
commemorates the massacre perpetrated here in 1798 by the French, 
who were exasperated by the obstinate resistance they met with. 
The Town Hall contains portraits of all the 'landammanns' from the 
year 1521 ; below them is a collection of Unterwalden flags ; a picture 
by the artist Wyrsch, who afterwards became blind, and perished in 
1798; another by Volmar, representing Brother Klaus taking leave 
of his family (p. 148). In the studio of the late painter Deschwanden 
a number of his paintings are exhibited gratis. The Historical 
Museum, in the Bahnhof-Platz, contains historical and antiquarian 
curiosities, weapons, coins, minerals, a library, and an interesting 
relief of Stans on the scale of 1 : 500 (key with Jak. Christen, behind 
the Winkelried Hotel ; adm. 50 c, catalogue 50 c). Fine view 
from the Knieri, above the Capuchin Monastery. 

The "Stanser Horn (6223') is a splendid point of view, scarcely inferior 
toRigi and Pilatus. Cable-railway in 53 min. ; return-ticket 8 fr., on Sun. 
forenoon 5 fr. , or, including railway from Stansstad, and S., R., and 
B. at the hotel, 15>/s fr. The line (4000 yards in length; maximum gra- 
dient 60 : 100) is divided into three sections, and carriages are changed 
twice. Each section has its own power-house; the electric motors are 
supplied from the central station at Buochs. In the middle of each section 
is a crossing, where the ascending and descending cars pass each other; 
there is no toothed rail, but safety is guaranteed by powerful automatic 
brakes. — The line ascends gradually (12 : 100) from the entrance of the 
village through luxuriant meadows, and farther on more rapidly (27 : 100) 
to the (13 min.) station of Kiilti (2343'), where carriages are changed. The 



142 II. Route 36. WOLFENSCHIESSEN. From Lucernt 

second section has a gradient at first of 40 : 100, afterwards of 60 : 100; the 
line ascends a wooded ravine, crosses a torrent, and intersects a deep cat- 
ting to the (13 min.) second station of Blumati (4006'), whence it proceeds 
(tuird section) with the same gradient (3:5) through a tunnel (150 yds.) to 
the terminal station (6070'), at the "Hotel Sianierhorn (R. 4-5, D. 3'/2, pens. 
8-12 fr.). A good path leads hence to the top (W higher), which commands 
a highly picturesque 'View of the Bernese Alps (with the Titlis rising 
to the lefi), the Lake of Lucerne, and the hills of N.W. Switzerland, with 
the lakes ot Zug, Baldegg, Hallwil, and Sempach. On the S. side of the 
summit is an experimental plantation of the Federal Institute of Forestry. 
— The ascent of the Stanser Horn on foot takes 3'/j-4 hrs. from Stani. 
but is fatiguing and not recommended. 

The railway ascends the left bank of the Engelberger Aa, be- 
tween the Stanser Horn on the right and the Buochser Horn on the 
left. In the background, the snow-clad Titlis. 3^2 M- Oberdorf; 
i l /i M. Biiren. 

A good path, diverging to the left, ascends to (l'/s hr.) the finely- 
Situated health-resort of Nieder-Rickenbach (3780'; "Hdt.-Pens Engel, E. 
I-27.2, D. 3-3'/z, S 2. pens. 5-7 fr.). The following ascents are made hence: 
Buochser Horn (5910'), 2 hrs., repaying (comp. p. 102); Musenalp (5870'; 
chalet, with rfmts.), via, the Aahom-Alp (2 hrs.; attractive); "Brisen (7800 1 ), 
3 hrs., by the Aahorn-Alp and the Steinalp, interesting (guide 10 fr., not 
indispensable for adepts); Schwalmis (7380 1 ; 3 3>/2 hrs. ; guide unnecessary), 
by the Aahorn-Alp, the Bar/alien (with a cross), and the Buhl-Alp, and 
thence up the N.W. arete. The descent from the last may be made to 
(3 hrs.) Isenthal via the Jochli (see below). — Interesting passes (4'/2-5 hrs., 
with guide) lead from Nieder-Rickenbach by the Jochli (6915'), between 
the Brisen and the Ri83ete«tock, or by the Hinter-Jochli (6915'j, between 
the Schwalmis and the Rissetestock, descending by the Bolgen-Alp and 
the Laueli to St. Jakob in the Isenthal (p. 107). 

Beyond (i 3 jt M.) Dallenwil (Schlussel) we cross to the right 
bank of the Engelberger Aa. On a hill to the right, at the mouth 
of the Steinbach, is the church of the village of Dallenwil (1790'). 

6 1/2 M. Wolfenechiessen (1700'; *Eintracht; Kreut; Einhorn, 
plain, R. 1-1 1/2, B. 1, L>. iy 2 -2, pens. 3l/ 2 -4 fr._). Beside the church is 
the hermit-hut (brought hither from Altzellen) of Conrad Scheuber, 
grandson of Nikolaus von derFliie(p.l48), whose worship he shares. 

From Wolfenschiessen via (li/i hr.) Ober-Rickenbach (2355'; Post, plain) 
and the Schonegg Pass (6315') to (4'/s hr3.) Uenthal, see p. 107. Guide ad- 
visable (Al. Christen or Conr. Scheuber of Wolfenschiessen). The Kaiser- 
tluhl (787)'), with a fine view and a rich flora, is ascended from Ober- 
Rickenbach via the Bannalp in 4 l /2 hrs. (guile). 

7 i / 4 M. DSrfli. On the right the Fallenbach descends in three 
leaps; on the left are the serrated peaks of the Wallenstiicke. At 
(9'/ 2 M.) Orafenort (1885'; inn, good wine) the line reaches the 
mountains. At first it ascends gradually through beautiful wood, 
but beyond the power-station at Obermatt comes a section nearly 
1 M. long, worked on the rack-and-pinion system and attaining a 
gradient of 25:100. — 12 M. Grunenwald (inn). Below, in the 
valley to the right, the brook descending from the Triibsee (p. 152) 
falls into the Aa. After another slight ascent we turn to the left, 
and suddenly obtain a view of the Engelberger-Thal, a green Alpine 
valley, 5 M. long and 1 M. broad, bounded by lofty, snow-clad 
mountains. The Titlis with its ioe-mantle stands forth majestically, 




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to Engelberg. ENGELBERG. II. Route 36. 1 43 

and to the left rise the rocky pinnacles of the Oreat and Little 
Spannort (p. 145); in the foreground is the Hahnenberg or Engel- 
berg (8565'). 

14 M. Engelberg. — Hotels (crowded in summer, advisable to write 
beforehand for rooms). 'Grand Hotel & Corhatjs Engelberg, with 
hydropathic, R. 2y 2 -8, B. l'/z, dej. 3, D. 4 ] /2, S. 3, pens. 10-15 fr. ; "Grand 
Hotel & Cdrhads Titlis, with garden and covered promenade, R. 21/2-7, 
B. l'/a, D. 4, S. 2V2, pens. 8-13 fr. ; -Hot.-Pens. Sonnenberg, finely situated, 
with shady grounds, R. 21/2-71/2, B. li/ a , dej. 3V 2 , D. 4, pens. 8-14 fr.; 
''Hotel-Pension Schweizerhof, R. 2-6, B. I1/2, D. 31/2, S. 21/2, pans. 71/2-U fr. ; 
"Terminus Hotel, R. 3-7, B. I1/2, D. 3y 2 -4, S. 2y 2 -3, pens. 8-12 fr.; 'Pension 
Villa Trautheim, R. 1-3, B. 1, D. 2, pens. 4i/ 2 -6 fr. ; these six all outside the 
village and near the station. In the village : "Hotel National, R. 2'/2-5, 
B. li/a, D. 31/2, S. 21/2, peas. 8-14 fr. ; ''Hot.-Pens. Engel, R. 11/2-3, B. iy 4 , 
D. 31/2, S. 21/2, pens. 6i/ 2 -3 fr. ; "Hot.-Pens. Muller, R. 2-3, B. iy 4 , D. 3-31/2, 
S. 2-2V2, pens. 7-8 fr. ; "Hot.-Pens. Engelberg, R. from 2, B. 1, D. 21/2-3, 
pens. 51/2-7 fr. ; "Hot.-Pens. Hess, R. 2-3, D. 3, pens. 7-8 fr. ; "Hot. des 
Alpes, R. from I1/2, D. 3, pens. 61/2-IO fr. ; "Hot.-Pens. Hug, R. from 2, 
B. 1 fr. 20 c, D. 3, S. 2, pens, from 6'/2 fr. Rooms at several other houses ; 
usual charges, R. 172-2, B. 1 fr. Beer at Water's, near the Post Office; 
Terminus Hotel (see above); Restaurant Biirgi (also confectioner), opposite 
the Schweizerhof. — English Church in the grounds of the Hotel Titlis. — 
Physicians : Dr. Cattani (private pension) ; Dr. Baher. — Guides: Jot., Alois, 
Karl, Maurus, and Eugen Kuster ; Jot., Placidus, and Jacob Best; Leodegar 
and Jot. Feierabend ; Carl Amrhein; Carl and Maurus Hurschler; Carl, Joh., 
and Jos. Water; Simon Zumstein. 

Engelberg (3B40'; pop. 1979), loftily and prettily situated, and 
sheltered from the N., is a favourite summer resort. At the upper 
end of the village rises the large Benedictine Abbey of the name, 
founded in 1121, named Mons Angelorum by Pope Calixtus II., and 
rebuilt after a fire in 1729. 

The "Chdroh contains modern pictures by Deschwanden, Kaiser, and 
Wyrsch (p. 141). High-altar-piece, an Assumption by Spiegler , 1734. In 
the chapter - house, two transparencies by Kaiser, the Conception and the 
Nativity. The Library (20,000 vols., 210 MSS.), which was pillaged by 
the French in 1798, contains a good relief of the Engelberg Valley. Per- 
mission to visit the monastery is now not very often granted. — The 
School connected with the abbey is well attended. The Farm Buildings, 
with the labourers' dwellings, are very extensive, and in the cheese-ma- 
gazine several thousand cheeses are frequently stored at one time. The 
revenues of the abbey were considerably reduced by the French in 1798. 

Opposite the abbey, 1 / 2 M. to the S., on the left bank of the Aa- 
wasser, are pleasant walks (Cafe Banklialp). The shady 'Professoren- 
Weg' leads along the Aawasser to ('/ 2 hr.) the Eienwaldchen, a pop- 
ular coffee-garden (also pension) on the road to Herrenriiti. 

Excursions. "Schwand, an easy and charming walk of 1V< hr. The 
path ascends from the Hot. Miiller along a brook and then mounts gradu- 
ally through the Griits, where it is joined by a path from the Hot. Sonnen- 
berg (charming retrospects of the Engelberg Valley). Beyond the Gschneil- 
Alp (3825') we proceed through wood and round the ridge to the hamlet 
of Unter-Schwand and over pastures to Ober-Schwand (3970'; *Inn). The 
view is limited; to the W. is the Melchthal chain from the Hanghorn 
to the Gohrlifluh. A little farther on, at the chapel on the way to the 
Wand-Alp (p. 144), the Titlis and other psaks also come into sight. — The 
•Bergli (4300'j, commanding the best view of the valley and the Titlis, is 
reached either by a direct path (with steps) via Fellenrilti (I hr.) or by 
an easier path (iy« hr.) diverging to the right in the Griiss from the route 



1 44 II. R. 36. — Map, p. 142. ENGELBERG. From Lucerne 

to Seta wand (see p. 143). A similar view is obtained from the 'Fliihmatt 
(4285' ; rfmts.), ascended by a path leading to the left above the H<"t. Engel, 
mostly through wood (1 hr.). All three points may be combined in a 
round of 2 l /«-3 hrs. From the (1 hr.) Fliihmatt we go on past the house 
to (5 min.) another farm-house, where we turn to the left and follow the 
level meadow-path along the hill. After a time this descends to the (40 
min.) Bergli, whence we descend through the Vorhag Wood to Unter-Schwand, 
or take the upper path to (20 min.) Ober-Schwand (p. 143) and return 
thence to (1 hr.) Engelberg. 

•Tatschbach Fall and Herrenriiti, a favourite excursion (omn. to 
Herrenriiti several times daily, 1 fr., to the fall 60 c, return, the same ; 
one-horse carr. to the fall and back, with stay of 1 /t hr., 5-6 fr., with two 
horses 9 fr. ; carr. to Herrenriiti and back with stay of 2 hrs. 8 fr., for 
half-a-day 10 fr., with two horses 14 and 18 fr.). We either follow the 
road past the Eienwaldchen (p. 143) , or we take the shorter path, to 
the left of the abbey, which passes (12 min.) the Neue Heimat Inn, at the 
mouth of the Horbis-Thal, and the (8 min.) Schweizerhaus Inn. [The rocky 
basin at the head of the Horbis-Thal, reached in l /i hr., is known as the 
End der Welt.] In l /2 hr. more the road reaches the TStschbach Fall (3575 1 ; 
inn), which descends from the Hahnenberg ot Engelberg. It then goes on 
through wood and across the Filrrenbach to the (>/« hr.) alp of Herrenriiti 
(3870'), which belongs to the abbey. Carriages are left here, and their 
inmates proceed by the Surenen Pass route (see p. 145) to (V2 br.) the 
Nieder-Surenen Alp (4133'; rfmts.), which affords a fine view of the pyra- 
midal Schlosaberg, the serrated Spannbrter, the Firnalpeli and Grassen 
glaciers, and the huge precipices of the Titlis. 

"Arnitobel and Ami- Alp. We follow the valley-road to the W. via 
Espen to (1 51.) the bridge over the Aawasser at Oertigtn, beyond which 
we ascend to the right. After 6 min. we turn to the left (to the right the 
way to the Schwendli-Alp, see below), cross the Eggli-Tobel and the 
Trubseebach, and enter (25 min.) the Arnitobel, a wooded ravine with water- 
falls. Thence a new path ascends to the left to (1 hr. ; l 8 /« hr. from 
Engelberg) the Ami-Alp or Wang-Alp (4210'; good inn), on a pleasant green 
pasture. The view is limited, but better from a point 5 min. to the right, 
indicated by a flag, and from the Slalden (4355'), farther to the X., beyond 
the Arnibach. — A similar view is enjoyed from the Schwendli-Alp (3366'; 
rfmts.), reached in l'/i hr. by the path diverging from the Arnitobel route 
as above indicated. — A pleasant circuit of 2 hrs. leads to the Gerschni- 
Alp (4125') aud returns via Hegmatt. 

Longer Excursions. Fiirren-Alp, 3 hrs., vevy attractive (guide, not 
indispensable, 7 fr.). Before reaching the Tatschbach Fall, beyond the 
bridge over the Kiihlauibach, we ascend to the left through wood (rather 
steep) to the (IV2 br.) Tagenstall-Alp (4710'), pass two slate-quarries (fos- 
sils), and reach (IV2 hr.) the chalets of the Fiirren-Alp (rfmts.). From 
the Hundsschopf (5972), 5 min. to the S., a grand view is obtained of the 
imposing amphitheatre of mountains from the Schlossberg to the Titlis. A 
pleasant return route (guide desirable 8 fr.) descends to the E. to the ( l /s br.) 
Ebnet-Alp (5557). the Hohbiel-Alp, and the (40 min.) Stdffeli-Alp , on the 
Surenen Pass route, 20 min. from the Nieder-Surenen -Alp (p. 145). — 
Wand-Alp (4885'), via Schwand (p. 143) in 3 hrs., last part rather toilsome; 
charming view of the Aathal and the mountains of Central Switzerland. 
Finer still is the view from the Wallenegg (5195'), 50 min. farther to the 
N. — Via the Gertchni-Alp to the (2-2i/ 2 hrs.) BSt. Hess on the Trilbsee Alp, 
see p. 152. — Via Port or Bord to the (IV2 hr.) Obhag -Alp and the (l'/2 hr.) 
Planken-Alp, with its rich flora (see p. 145). 

Ascents. Hahnen or Engelberg (S5li5 r ; 4 3 /<-5 hrs., guide 12 fr.), an 
interesting but fatiguing scramble for experienced climbers. The route leads 
from the Horbis-Thal (see above) via the Furggi-Alp and over the saddle be- 
tween the Hahnen and Geni.»ispiel. — Rigidalstock (8615'; 4 l /s-5 hrs.; guide 
9 fr.), the last part toilsome; tine panorama. — "Widderfeld (7703'), from 
the (iy 2 hr.) Ami-Alp (see above) in 3>/» hrs.; preferable by the Zingel-Alp 



toEngelberg. ENGELBERG. Map,p.l42. — H.R. 36. 145 

and Bohlicht (5 hrs. ; guide 8 fr.). — "Hutstock (8790' ; guide 12 fr.), a 
fine point, from the Arni-Alp via the Juchli (see below) in 4V2-5 hrs., not diffi- 
cult for mountaineers (comp. p. 147). — The Hanghorn (8793') is reached 
from the Arni-Alp in 4-5 hrs. (guide 12 fr.) by traversing the Schatlband, 
on the rocky face of the Hutstock. — Rothsandnollen (8905'), the highest 
point of the Melchthal range, via the Schattband in 6-7 hrs. (guide 15 fr.), 
laborious but repaying. — "Engelberger Rothstock (9250 1 ; 6-61/2 hrs.; 
guide 9, with a night out 12 fr.), not difficult. We ascend by the Alp Obhaag 
to the (3i/ 2 -4 hrs.) Club Hut above the Planken-Alp (7560'), on the Ruch- 
hubel, not far from the Griessen Glacier; thence via the Rothstock- Liicke 
(8875') to the (2y 2 hrs.) summit. 

*TTri-Rothstock (9620' ; 8Vs-9 hrs.; guide 16, with descent through the 
Grossthal to Isenthal 22 fr.), very interesting, not difficult for adepts. 
From the (3V2 hrs.) Plankenalp Club Hut to the (l'/4 hr.) Rothstock-Mcke 
(see above) ; thence across snow to the (1 hr.) Porta or Schlossstock-Liicke, 
adjoining the Schlossstock (9055'); then a rather steep descent to the BlilmUs- 
alpfim; again an ascent to the arete separating it from the Kleinthal, 
and lastly up the Kleinthalfim to the (2'/z hrs.) top (comp. p. 107). 

The "Great Spannort (10,515') is ascended from the Spannort Club Hut 
(6500'), 4 hrs. from Engelberg, by the Spannort-Joch (p. 146) in 41/2-5 hrs. ; 
highly interesting, though toilsome (comp. p. 125 ; guide 25 fr.). The descent 
may be made to the Kronten Hut (p. 125; guide to Erstfeld 30 frj. — 
The Little Spannort (10,380') is climbed from the Spannort Hut by the 
Spannort-Joch in 51/2 hrs. (guide 35 fr.); difficult, for expert climbers 
only. Adepts may ascend the Little and Great Spannort in one day (guide 
50 fr.). — Wichelplankstock (9763'), 8 hrs. (guide 25 fr.) , difficult but 
attractive; from Engelberg by the (2 hrs.) Firnalpeli (night-quarters) to the 
(3 hrs.) Wenden-Joch (F695'; see p. 146), then by the Grassen Glacier to the 
(3 hrs.) summit. — Schlossberg (10,280'), from the Blacken-Alp (p. 146) in 
41/2 hrs., laborious (guide 25 fr.). Admirable view, scarcely inferior to 
that from the Titlis. Edelweiss abundant. 

The :, Titlis (10,627'; 6i/ 2 -7 hrs.; guide 12, to Engstlen-Alp 18 fr.) is very 
interesting, though fatiguing. It is advisable to go on the previous evening 
to the HStel Heis (p. 152 ; 2 hrs. ; horse 10 fr.), so as not to have the steep 
Pfaffenwand (p. 152) to ascend at starting. From this point the guides 
like to start at 2 a.m., in order to get back before the snow melts; but 
the ascent by lantern-light is disagreeable and toilsome, and it is better 
to wait till daybreak. From the Hotel Hess the path ascends over the 
Laubersgrat to the (2 hrs.) Stand (8033') ; it then mounts a steep incline 
in zigzags, over rock and detritus, to the p/4 hr.) Rothegg (9030'), where 
the glacier is reached, and a rest is taken. We ascend the glacier, at 
first gradually, then more rapidly (step-cutting sometimes necessary), and, 
if the snow is in good condition, reach the (IV2-2 hrs.) summit, called 
the Nollen, without material difficulty. The view, highly picturesque and 
imposing, embraces the entire Alpine chain from Savoy to Tyrol, N. Switzer- 
land, and S. Germany (panorama by Imfeld). Descent to the Joch Pass 
(Engstlen-Alp), see p. 152. 

The Ochsenkopf (98800, from the Hotel Hess in 5-6 hrs., toilsome but 
interesting. The last part of the ascent leads through the Sulzli gorge 
and over the E. arete to the summit (guide 30 fr.). — Wendenstock (9985'), 
interesting but difficult (p. 152), for experts only, from the Hotel Hess by 
the Joch Pass and the Joch Glacier in 41/2-6 hrs. (guide 30 fr.), or by the 
Joch Pass and the Pfaffen Glacier in 5-6 hrs. (guide 35 fr.). 

Passes. From Engelberg over the Joch Pass to Meiringen (9'/2-10 hrs.; 
guide, unnecessary, 15 fr., to Engstlen-Alp 8 fr.), see R. 38 ; over the Storegg 
(4'/2-5 hrs.; guide 12 fr.) or the Juchli (5-6 hrs.; guide 12 fr.) to the village 
of Melchthal (diligence to Kerns and Sarnen on the Brunig railway, see 
p. 146); over the Rothgratli to Isenthal (to Fliielen 12 hrs.; guide 18 fr.), 
see p. 107. 

To Altdoef or Erstfeld bt the Surenen Pass (9 hrs.), bridle-path, 
rather fatiguing (guide, 15 fr., not indispensable in clear weather). Route 
to the (13/4 hr.) Nieder-Surenen Alp (4133'), see p. 144. Farther on we 

Bardekbr, Switzerland. 19th Edition. 10 



146 JI.R.37.—Map,p.98. ALPNACH. 

ascend via, the (1/2 hr.) Btaffeli-Alp (4652') , with views of the Titlis, the 
Schlossberg, the Spannorter, etc., to the (50 mio.) "Stierenbach Fall (5425'). 
We then cross and re-cross the brook, pass the ('/< hr.) Blacken-Alp (5833'), 
with its chapel, and reach the (U/s hr.) Surenen Pass (7560 1 ), on the S.E. 
side of the Blackenstock (9587'). On the E. we see the mountains enclosing 
the Schachen-Thal, with the Windgelle in the foreground, and the Glamisch 
behind. We then descend over snow to the (l>/2 hr.) Waidnacht Alp (4751'); 
•/4 hr. farther on the route divides at a bridge, where we either follow 
a steep path in a straight direction to Attinghausen and (l 3 /4 hr.) Altdorf, 
or cross the bridge to the right and traverse the Bockitobel, with the 
picturesque falls of the Waldnachtbach, to (2 hrs.) Erstfeld (p. 125). 

Feom Engelbebg to Ebbtfeld (p. 125) by the Schlossberg -Liicke 
(8632') and the Glattenfirn (10 hrs. ; guide 25 fr.), a fine route, but fatiguing. 
By spending a night in the Spannort But (p. 145 ; 2 hrs. below the pass), 
mountaineers may combine the ascent of the Great Spannort (p. 145) with 
this pass. — To Erstfeld across the Spannort-Joch (9610 1 ), between the 
Great and the Little Spannort, 10-11 hrs. (»uide 25 fr.), toilsome. 

To Wassen over the Graasen Pass (Barengrube, 8917'), 10 hrs., difficult 
(guide to Meien 25 fr.). — To the Steinalp over the Wenden-Joch (8695'), 
10-11 hrs., fatiguing, but interesting (guide 25 fr.). 



37. From Lucerne over the Brunig to Meiringen and 
Brienz (Interlaken). 

Railway from Lucerne to (28 M.) Meiringen in 3'/2 (first-class express 
in 3) hrs. (fares 7fr. 90, 5 fr. 45, 3 fr. 55 c); to (36 M.) Brienz in 31/2-4 hrs. 
(fares 10 fr. 30, 7 fr. 25, 4 fr. 25 c). From Brienz to Interlaken, steamboat 
in 173-2 hrs. (through-fares from Lucerne to Interlaken 13 fr. 30 c, 10 fr., 
5 fr. 65 c). — Steamboat (preferable) from Lucerne to Alpnachstad ( 3 /4- 
IV2 hr.; P- 105); the direct trips are timed to connect with the Briinig Rail- 
way at Alpnachstad. From Alpnachstad to Weggis direct steamer thrice 
daily in I-IV2 hr. 

The "Briinig Railway, opened in 1888-89, is an ordinary narrow-gauge 
line, as far as Giswil (about halfway) ; but it then crosses the pass (3295') 
by means of the 'rack-and-pinion' system and the ordinary system alter- 
nately. Maximum gradient, 18 : 100. Views to the right. As, however, the 
old Brunig Road is more picturesque, those who visit the Bernese Oberland 
for the first time will be repaid by walking from Giswil or Lungern across 
the Brunig to Meiringen. 

Lucerne, see p. 94. The BbOnig Railway runs to the S.W. in a 
wide curve into the broad valley of the Allmend, and, leaving Kriens 
(p. 99), at the foot of the Sonnenberg, to the right, passes (3 M.) 
Horw (a village , with two inns , to the left) , beyond which it 
approaches the S.W. arm of the Lake of Lucerne (p. 114). &/% M. 
Hergiswil (p. 114), at the foot of Pilatus (bridle-path to E6tel 
Klimsenhorn, p. 116). The railway pierces the Lopperberg (tunnel, 
3 /4 M.) and skirts the Lake of Alpnach to — 

8V2 M. Alpnachstad (1440'; *H6t.-Pens. Pilatus; Rbssli), the 
starting-point of the Pilatus Railway ; see p. 114. 

Thence through the somewhat marshy valley of the Aa and 
across the Kleine Schlieren to (9^2 M.) Alpnach -Dorf (1530'; 
*Krone; Sonne, pens. 4 1 /2-5 1 /2 fr-; Schliissel). The church, with 
its slender tower, was erected with the proceeds of the sale of timber 



SARNEN. Map,p.98. — II.B.37. 147 

from the Pilatus forests, rendered accessible by a wooden slide, 
8 M. long, and cut down in 1811-19. 

Beyond Alpnach the train crosses the broad stony bed of the Qrosse 
Schlieren and the Sarner Aa, the right bank of which it follows 
past , Kagiswil (on the right), with its large parquetry -factory, 
to (12 M.) Kerns-Kagiswil (1620'), the station for the Melchthal. 

The Melchthal, an idyllic valley, 15 M. long, studded with chalets 
and watered by the Melch-Aa, repays a visit. From the station of Kagiswil 



2394) with a pretty church, finely situated at the foot of the Arvigrat (6416'), 
and frequented as a health-resort. Good view from (20 min.) the Burgflvh 
(2253). At the entrance of the Melchthal, 3 M. from Kerns and 3 3 / 4 M. from 
Sarnen, is St. Mklausen (2752'; Schliissel, pens. 5 fr.), with the first Christian 
church erected in this district. The ancient tower adjoining it is locally 
called the Heidenthurm (heathens' tower). In the ravine of the Melch-Aa, 
opposite, below Fliihli (p. 148), is the Ranft, with the hermitage of Brother 
Klaus (see p. 148). From St. Niklausen the road leads to the (3 M.) village 
of Melchthal (2933'; 'Hdt.-Curhaus Melchthal, E. 1 1/2-21/2, B. 1, D. 3, S. 2, 
pens. 51/2-7 fr. ; 'SSL-Pens. Alpenhof, E. 1-2, B. 1, D. 3, S. 2. pens. 5-6 fr.), 
frequented as summer-quarters. — The route from Keens to Melchthal via 
Fldhli - Eanft (2 hrs.) is much more attractive than the somewhat mono- 
tonous highroad, especially for pedestrians. About 2 M. from Kerns the 
new road leads over the bold Melch-Aa Bridge, which is 318' above the 
river and the loftiest bridge in Switzerland. About 1/4 M. farther on is a 
guide-post on the left, indicating a good footpath, which avoids a long 
bend of the road and brings us in 10 min. more to Fliihli-Eanft (p. 148), 
where we are still 31/2 M. from the village of Melchthal. 

From the village of Melchthal a cart-road (practicable for light vehicles) 
leads via the Balmmalt, at the foot of the precipitous Ramisjluh (6115'), to 
(8 M.) Melchsee-Frutt (see below). At the Ohr-Alp (3975'), 3 M. to the E. 
of Melchthal, is one of the largest maple-trees in Switzerland, with a girth 
of 30\ The Widderfeld (7725') is easily ascended from Melchthal in 4>/2 hrs. 
(guide). A better and also fairly easy ascent is that of the 'Hutstock (8790' ; 
5 hrs. ; guide 10 f r. ; Werner and Kaspar Durrer) ; splendid view of the High 
Alps and the lakes of Central Switzerland. Descent to Engelberg, see 
p. 143. — From Melchthal a safe mountain-path crosses the Storegg Pass 
(5710') to (4Vj-5 hrs.) Grafenort or (51/2-6 hrs.) Engelberg (p. 145; with 
guide); another, more interesting but more fatiguing (guide 9 fr.), leads 
to Engelberg in 6 hrs. over the Juchll (71200. The Nunalphom (Juchlistock, 
7830') may be ascended in 3 /i nr - from the Juchli (guide 6 fr.). — The basin 
of Melchsee-Frutt (6165"; "Curhaus <t Pension. Reinhard, E. 11/2-3, B. I1/2, 
D. 31/2, S. 2, pens. 5-61/2 fr.; "Curhaus Frutt, E. I1/2-21/2, B. li/ 4 , D. 3, 
S. 2, pens. 5-6 fr., both unpretending) affords an attractive Alpine picture. 
Rich flora. Interesting excursions : to Boni (7120'), 1 hr.; Spicherfluh (6690 1 ), 
l'A hr. ; Hohmatt (7950'), 2-21/2 hrs. ; "Erzegg (7140'), H/ 4 hr. ; "Balmeregg- 
Urn (7280") , I1/2 hr. ; Abgschutz (6390') ly 2 -2 hrs. ; • Hohenstollen, (8150"), 
2'/* hrs., with fine view (comp. p. 202; guide 5 fr.); Olockhaus (8320'), 
2 hrs., toilsome; Wildgeistberg (871CP) and Rothsandnollen (8905'), 3 hrs., via 
'he Tannen-Alp (comp. p. 151). To the E. an easy pass crosses the Tannen- 
Alp (6500 1 ) in 2 hrs. to the Engstlen-Alp (p. 150); to the W. an interesting 
pass (last part of ascent steep and stony; descent to Meiringen easy) leads 
via the Weit Ries (about 7700'), to the S. of the Hohenstollen, in 5 hrs. 
(guide 12 fr.) to Meiringen (p. 200). 

13 M. Sarnen (1555'; pop. 3950 ; *E6t.-Pens. Seller, R. 1 1/2-21/2, 
B.l, D. 2'/ 2 , S. 2, pens. 5-6 fr.; *Obwaldner Hof, R. li/ 2 -3, B. 1, 
D.21/2, pens. 5-6 fr.; Adler, R. 1-2, B. 1, D. IV2-2V2 ft- ; Metzgem, 
moderate; Pens. Landenberg, see p. 148; Wilerbad, on the W. bank 

10* 



148 II. B. 37. —Map,p. 98. GISWIL. From Lucerne 

of the lake, ll/g M. from Sarnen), capital of Obwalden, theW. part 
of Canton Unterwalden, with a nunnery and a Capuchin monastery. 
The Rathhaus contains portraits of all the magistrates of Obwalden 
from 1381 to 1824, and one of St. Nikolaus von der Flue (see below), 
and a relief model of Unterwalden and Hasli. The large Church, on 
a hill, with pictures by Deschwanden and Kaiser, the cantonal hos- 
pital, the poorhouse, the Niklaus von Flue Pentionat (for students), 
and the arsenal on the Landenberg (1650'; fine view; pension, see 
p. 147) are conspicuous. 

At the head of the Schlieren-Thal, 3>/2 hrs. to the W. of Sarnen, is the 
solitary 'Schwendi-Kaltbad (4740'), with chalybeate spring and whey-cure. 
Road up the W. slope of the Schwendiberg to (1 hr.) Slalden (2614'; rfmts. 
at the curb's ; good view), whence a bridle-path leads across the meadows of 
Schuendi to the (2'k brs.) Kaltbad. Thence to the Feuerstein (6700') 2'/s hrs ; 
to the Schimberg Bad, 2>/2 hrs., see p. 155. By the Seewenegg to &lt hrs.) 
Flilhli, in the Entlebuch (p. 155), attractive. 

From Sarnen to the Melchthal (good footpath to Fliihli-Ranft 1 hr., to 
St. Niklausen l'/4 hr.), see below and p. 147. 

The train (views to the right) crosses the Melch-Aa, which has 
been conducted into the Sarner See (1530'), a lake 4 M. long and 
l-l 1 ^ M. broad, well stocked with fish. The level of the lake has 
been much lowered by an artificial tunnel. — 15 M. Sachseln(1558'; 
pop. 1634 ; *Kreuz, E. lt/2-2, B. 1% D. 3, S. 2, pens, from 5 fr.; 
*Engel, pens. 4-41/2 fr.), a thriving village near the E. bank of 
the lake. 

From Sachseln a good road (carr. 5, with two horses 8 fr. ; short-cut 
halfway, to the right, in 3/, hr.) leads to (3 M.) Fliihli-Ranft (2450 1 ; "Hdtel 
and Curhaus Nilnalphorn, well situated, pens. 6-8 fr. ; 'Pern, in the Kaplanei, 
4'/s fr. ; Pens. Stolzenfelt, 4 l /2-5 fr.), a frequented health-resort, finely situated 
on a spur of the Sachseler Grat, with a highly picturesque chapel. It 
was the birthplace of St. Nikolaos von dee Flue (1417), whose dwelling 
still stands between the Curhaus Nunalphorn and the Kaplanei. In his 
50th year he retired, full of honour for his life of active benevolence, to 
the hermitage in the ravine of the Melch-Aa (p. 147), where he is said 
to have lived for twenty years on the sacramental elements, of which he 
partook monthly. After their victory over Charles the Bold of Burgundy 
in 1482 the Confederates disagreed at the Diet of Stans about the division 
of the spoil, but through the intervention of the venerable hermit were 
reconciled. After his death (1487) he was canonised. His memory is still 
revered, and there is scarcely a hut in the Forest Cantons that does not 
possess a portrait of 'Brother Klaus'. 

From Fliihli-Ranft a pleasant and shady road, high above the Melch-Aa, 
leads to (3 l /2 M.) the village of Melchthal (p. 147). — Over the Melch-Aa 
Bridge to Kerns, see p. 147. 

Ascending a little from the S. end of the lake, and passing (on 
the left) the entrance of the Kleine Melchthal, the train halts at 
(18t/ 2 M.) Giswil (1665'; pop. 1715; *H6tel de la Gare, R. IV2-2, 
B. 1, D. 3, pens. 4!/ 2 -5 fr. ; Krone). Fine view from the churchyard, 
beside the high-lying church ; to the S.W. rise the Oistoiler 8tock 
(6605') and the Brienzer Rothhorn (7715'). Above the station are 
the relics of the chateau of Rudenz. 

Excursions. The romantic Kleine Melchthal has been made access- 
ible and deserves a visit. From the hamlet of Eiwil (Schiff, rustic), 1 M. 
to the N. of Giswil, at the S.E. end of the Sarner See, the road ascends 



to Meiringen. BRUNIG. Maps, pp. 98, 1 70. — II. R. 37. 1 49 

to the E. to the entrance of the narrow and very picturesque wooded 
ravine, through which it is carried for about 3 M. — The Giswiler Stock 
(6605'; beautiful view) is ascended from Giswil in 4 hrs., with guide (10 fr.), 
via Kleintheil and Alpboglen. The descent may he made to the Marien-Thal 
{Mntlebueh, p. 155). — The Brienzer Rothhorn (7715'; p. 202) is ascended from 
Giswil in 6 hrs. (guide 12 fr., not needed by experts); good road for the 
first 3 hrs., afterwards a steep footpath. — Pedestrians should follow the 
old'BEDNiG Eoad from Giswil over the (3 hrs.) Briinig Pass (3395'; -Cur- 
iums Briinig, see below) to (l 3 /i hr.) Meiringen or (3 hrs.) Brienz (p. 202). 

At Giswil, where the first steep incline occurs, the 'rack-and- 
pinion' system begins. The line rapidly ascends the side of the 
valley (10 : 100), through wood, across two torrents, and through 
two rock-cuttings, and reaches (20 M.) Burgeln-Kaiserstuhl (2305'), 
The three peaks of the Wetterhorn are visible to the S. over the 
depression of the Briinig. The train runs high above the pictur- 
esque Lake of Lungern (2160'; l 1 ^ M. long), and through a short 
tunnel, to — 

227 2 M. Lungern (2480'). The large village (pop. 1825; *Cur- 
haus Lungern, R. 172"3, B. H/4, D. 272-3, pens. 5-8 fr. ; *Lowe, 
Bar $ S6t. Briinig, pens. 4-6 fr.; Hot.-Pens. Alpenhof, with baths, 
R. 2, B. 1, D. 2V2, S. 2, pens. 5 fr.) is the last in the valley, and 
lies 72 M. from the S. end of the lake , half of which was drained 
into the Lake of Sarnen in 1836, by means of a channel % M. long. 
— The Dundelbach forms a picturesque fall on the hillside to the 
W. The Oiebel (6680'; fine view), to the S.E., is easily ascended 
from Lungern in 372-4 hrs. (see p. 202). 

The second steep gradient begins beyond Lungern. Fine view 
of the Lungern-Thal. The train passes through the Kdppeli Tunnel 
(2970'; 150 yds.) and ascends the wooded Brunigmatt-Thal (above 
us, to the right, is the road), at a moderate gradient, which be- 
comes steeper near (25 M.) Briinig (3295'; "Bail. Restaurant, D. 
ipcl. wine 3-372 fr. ; *H6t.-Pens. Curhaus Briinig, 3 min. from the 
itation, R. 3-5, B. li/ 2 , de'j. 372, D. 472, pens. 8-14 fr. ; Engl. 
Ch. Serv. in the season), well situated near the old Briinig Pass. 
Opposite us tower the Engelhorner(p. 205) and the Faulhorn chain 
(p. 198) ; to the left we overlook the valley of Meiringen as far as 
the Kirchet (p. 207); at the foot of the hills to the S. is the lower 
fall of the Reichenbach (p. 205); opposite is the fall of the Oltschi- 
bach (p. 202); below us flows the Aare, and to the right is part of 
the Lake of Brienz. 

Fine prospect from the Wiler Alp (4855'), l'/s hr. to the N.W. of the 
Briinig. From here we may ascend the Wilerhorn (6570'), l'/2 hr. farther 
on (easy and attractive ; guide, desirable for novices, 10 fr.), which corn- 
muds an admirable view of the Wetterhorn, the Haslithal, and a series 
of lakes. Still more extensive is the view from the Arnifirst (7244'), 
ncended by the arete to the N.W. of the Wilerhorn in 1 hr. (guide 
12 fr., with descent to Brienz 15 fr.). 

Prom the Briinig station a stony, but attractive footpath leads, mostly 
through wood , to the finely situated village of (1 hr.) Hohflvh (p. 202). 
Sew road thence to (2»/2 M.) Meiringen (p. 200). — A road (good view) 
l«»da from the Briinig via. Brienzwiler to (5>/2 M.) Brienz (see p. 202). 



150 II. R. 38. — Maps, pp. 124,1 42. GENTHAL. 

The railway is carried down the steep rocks (maximum gradient 
12 : 100) by means of retaining-walls and cuttings, and across the 
ravines of the Orossbach, Kehlbach, and Hausenbach (charming 
view at the BwnnenfluK), into the Aare-Thal, to Hansen, and — 

28 M. Meiringen (p. 200). Thence to Brient and Interlaken, 
see R. 50. 



38. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Engstlen ■ Alp, 

Joch Pass. 

9>/« hrs. : Innertkirchen l'A, Engstlen-Alp 41/2 (direct from Meiringen 
5 hrs.), Joch Pass IV2, H6t. Hess V21 Engelberg IV2 hr. — Horse from Innert- 
kirchen to Engstlen-Alp 15, to Engelberg 30, for two days 45 fr. ; guide 
(unnecessary) 16 ; porter from Innertkirchen to Engstlen-Alp 8, from Mei- 
ringen 9 fr. ; horse from Engstlen-Alp to Engelberg 15, guide S fr. — If the 
traveller can devote two days to tbis interesting journey (still more attrac- 
tive in the reverse direction), he should sleep on the Engstlen-Alp, where 
an afternoon may be pleasantly spent. — Luggage addressed to the Hotel 
Engstlen-Alp and left with Herr Immer at Meiringen is despatched daily 
at 8 a.m. and arrives in the evening (1 fr. per 5 kilogrammes or 11 lbs.). 

From Meiringen to (iy 4 hr.) Inner tkirchen (Ho f; 2053'), see 
p. 207. We then follow the Susten road (p. 152) to the (% hr.) 
saw-mill in the Muhle-Thal (2735'), and, beyond the bridge over 
the Oenthal-Wasser (finger-post) , ascend to the left through wood 
to the (1 hr.) Wagenkehr Inn, whence we descend to the (8 min.) 
Leimboden (3910'), where we recross to the right bank. 

A direct path to the Engstlen-Alp, saving about 3 /« hr., leads from 
Meiringen (p. 200) to the ( 3 /4 hr.) H6t.-Fent. Alpbach, on the Hatleberg 
(p. 201), turns to the right 10 min. farther on, and leads to (20 min.) the 
hamlet of Rati (3160'), \he (li/j hr.) hamlet of Ami (4745'), the (l'/«hr.) 
Bawmgarten-Alp (55S0 r ), and (1 hr.) the Engstlen-Alp. This route affords 
good walking and commands fine views of the Bernese Alps, the Trift 
district, the Titlis chain, and (lastly) of the deep Genthal. — The directj 
path called the 'Hundschilpfi', also '/« hr. shorter, is not recommended. 

Our path gradually ascends the monotonous Genthal. Behind 
us rise the Wetterhorner and the Hangend - Gletscherhorn at the 
head of the Urbach-Thal (p. 207). We pass (10 min.) the chalets 
Bei den Spichern and (10 min.) the Oenthal Chalets (3993'; on the 
left bank of the brook), and after a slight ascent reach (1 hr.) the 
Schwarzenthal Chalets (4596'; rfmts.). 

The scenery becomes more interesting. From the precipices of 
the Oadmer Fliihe (9750') on the right, which become grander, 
falls a series of cascades , varying with the state of the melting 
snow, and eight of these are seen close together (Achtelsassbache). 
The Engstlenbach , as the brook is named above this point, also 
forms several falls. The path crosses the stream and ascends, often 
steeply, through fine wood, to the (1 '/ 2 hr.) *Engstlen-Alp (6033'; 
*Immer's Hot.-Pens. Engstlenalp, with dependances, R. 2-4, B. l'/ii 
D. 4, S. 3, pens. 61/2-9 fr. ; Eng. Ch. Serv. in summer), a beautiful 
and sheltered pasture, with fine old pines and 'Alpine cedars', fre- 



ENGSTLBN-ALP. Map,p.U2. — II.R.38. 151 

quanted as a health-resort. 'View, to the S.W., of the majestic 
Wetterhorn ; to its left, the Mittelhorn, Rosenheim, Schreckhorner, 
Lauteiaaihoin, and Finsteiaaihorn ; to the light, the Gspaltenhorn, 
Tschingelhorn, and Blumlisalp; to the E., the "Wendenstocke and 
Titlis. A little to the E. of the hotel is the picturesque Engstlen 
Lake (6075'), with baths and rowing-boat. 

Excubsions. Schafberg (785Cf; 2 hrs.), easy (guide needless). Starting to 
the B. from the hotel, we ascend the steep Schafthal, keeping, farther up, 
well to the right, along a grassy ridge till near the top, which affords an 
interesting view of the Engelberg valley and, its surrounding mountains, 
and a peep of Lake Lucerne to the left. 

S&tteli (6890'; 2 hrs.)- At the W. end of the Eng3tlen-See (see above) we 
cross the Engstlenbach to the (V2 hr.) Alp Scharmadlager, and ascend a narrow 
path, diverging to the left above the Baregg-Alp, on the slope of the 
Gadmer Fliihe, to the (l>/2 hr.) Satteli, which lies at the S.W. base of the 
Tellistock (see below) and commands a splendid view of the Gadmen- 
Thal, Trift Glacier, and Bernese Alps (descent to Oadmen. see p. 153). A 
still finer view is obtained from the *AchteUassgratli (6540 1 ), to the S.W. 
of the Satteli, reached in 1 /\ hr. more by keeping above the Baregg-Alp 
straight along the slope at a lower level. 

To Melchsee-Fbott (2 hrs.; guide, 4 fr., unnecessary; horse 10 fr.). 
From the hotel we go to the N.W. to the (10 min.) Jenti Waterfall and ascend 
rapidly on the right side, soon obtaining a splendid view of the Bernese 
Alps (among which the Finsteraarhorn comes in view to the left of the 
Schreckhorner). At the top we round the grassy Spicherfluh (6690 1 ), pass 
a small lake, and reach the (1 hr.) Tannen-Alp (6500'), with its numerous 
chalets. We next traverse level pastures, pass three other small lakes 
and a shelter-hut (6415'), and reach (1 hr.) Melchsee-Frvit (6165'; see p. 147). 
— Or, after passing the Spicherfluh (see above), the regular path may be 
quitted and the grassy ridges to the left followed as far as the Erzegg 
(7140'), affording grand views of the above-mentioned giants of the Bernese 
Oberland. From Erzegg we descend to the right to Melchsee-Frutt (this 
route takes 1 hr. more, but is repaying). 

Ascents. GwSrtler (7950' ; 2 hrs. ; guide 6 fr.), not difficult; good view 
to the S. and W., but shut in on the N. Edelweiss abundant on the lower 
pocky ledges. — *Hohmatt(7950 l ; 2'/2hrs. ; guide, not indispensable, 6 fr.), 
the central peak of the Tannenband, an easy and very attractive climb via 
tie Tannen-Alp and the Kringen-LUcke. — 'Bothsandnollen (8905'; 3 hrs.; 
guide 8 fr.), the highest of the Melchthal chain; roomy plateau at the top. — 
'HohenBtollen (8150'; 4 hrs.), rather fatiguing (guide 10 fr.); magnificent 
prospect (comp. p. 202). — Graustock (8737'; 3'/2 hrs. ; guide 8 fr.), fatiguing; 
but the lower ridge to the E. is easy and repaying. — 'Hutstock (8790' ; 4Va 
hrs. ; guide 12fr.), see p. 147. — ♦Tellistock (8467'; 3-3'/z hrs. ; guide 8-10fr.), 
the W. peak of the Gadmer Fliihe, not difficult. Footpath to the ('/s hr.) 
Alp Scharmadlager (see above); then through a valley and over broad 
terraces of grass and rock to the (2'/2 hrs.) summit. Fine and very 
picturesque view. — Wendenstock (9990' ; 4 hrs. ; guide 30 fr.), difficult, 
lor steady-headed experts only ; imposing view. 

The ascent of the Titlis (10,627'), 5-5'/2 brs., with guide, is shorter but 
more toilsome from the Engstlen-Alp than from Engelberg (p. 145). From 
the (l'/2 hr.) Joch Pass we ascend to the right over turf, rocks , debris, 
and snow, and reach the (3 1 /2-4 hrs.) top after a steep and fatiguing climb. 
On the ne've' the route unites with that from Engelberg (p. 145). Guide 
from the hotel 15 fr. (charged in the bill) and gratuity (with descent to 
Engelberg 20 fr.). 

Ovkb the Satteli to Gadmen, 3'/2-4 hrs. (guide to Satteli 4, Gad- 
men 10, Steinalp 22 fr.), a fine route ; see above and p. 152. 

The bridle-path (to Engelberg S^hrs., in the reverse direction 
4'/2 urs ascends gently to the E. over pastures, touches the upper 



152 JI.R.38.~Maps,pp.l30,142. JOCH PASS. 

end of the Engstlen-See (6076'), and then ascends 'hinter derEngi' 
(to the right, the Wendenstocke, with the Pfaffen and Joeh Glacieri) 
to the (l'/2 nr J° cl1 P aBB (7265'; -view limited). The path then 
descends in windings and leads through the flat and marshy valley 
(to the left, the turbid Triibsee), and across the brook which de- 
scends from the Titlis glaciers, to the (i/ 2 hr.) *H6t.-Pem. Hest 
(R. 21/2-3V2. B. 1% D. 31/2, pens, from 7 fr.), on the brink of the 
Pfaffenwand (5870'). View of the Titlis and the Engelberg Valley; 
finer from the Burghubel, 10 min., and from the Bitzistock (6226'), 
72 hr. from the hotel, where it includes the Schlossberg, Spann- 
orter, and other mountains. Ascent of the Titlis, see p. 146. 

The path now descends the steep Pfaffenwand in zigzags, tra- 
verses the Gerschni-Alp (4125'; inn), enters a wood, crosses the 
Aawasser at the foot of the hill, and reaches — 

17 2 hr. Engelberg (p. 143). 



39. From Meiringen to Wassen. Susten Pass. 

12 hrs. : Innertkirchen I1/4, Gadmen 3, Am Stein 2 8 /«, Susten Pass l l /«, 
Meien 2 8 /«, Wassen 1 hr. Horse 35 (two days, 40), guide 18 fr. (needless). 

From Meiringen to Innertkirchen (Hof; 2053'), I74 hr., see 
p. 207. The Susten Road , constructed by Bern and Uri in 1811, 
and still tolerably well kept on the Bernese side (practicable for 
driving as far as the Stein Inn) , diverges here to the E. from the 
Grimsel route. It ascends over pleasant meadows to (25 min.) Wikr 
(2430'), crosses (10 min.) the Gadmtnbaeh , and, at (74 hr.) a 
saw-mill in the Miihle- Thai (2736'), the Oenthalbach. (Path to 
the Engstlen- Alp , see p. 150.) The path then follows the right 
bank of the Q-admenbach, through the well-wooded Nesaen-Thal, to 
( 3 / 4 hr.) Nessenthal or Muhlestalden (3117'). To the right opens 
the narrow Triftthal, with the Trift Glacier in the background. 

Triftthal (comp. Map, p. 130; 6 hrs. to the Trift Hut; guide neces- 
sary ; Andreai von Weittenfluh of Muhlestalden, Joh. Moor and Jolt. Lvcht of 
Gadmen). The path ascends on the right bank of the Triftwatter to the 
Trift-Alp (4365') and on the right side of the ice-fall to the (3'/s-4 hrs.) 
Qraggi-Hutte (6280'). We now cross the glacier, here tolerably level, and 
mount the steep rocks of the Thaliutock to the (2 hrs.) Trift But of the 
Swiss Alpine Club (8250'), affording a good survey of the upper basin of 
the Trift Glacier. From the Trift Hut over the (2'/« hrs.) Trift-Iimmi 
(10,170') and the Rhone Glacier to the (2>/2-3 hrs.) Furka (p. 139), an inter- 
esting glacier expedition. From the Trift-Limmi the Thieralplistock (11,175'), 
an excellent point of view, is easily ascended in '/« hr. — The "Danuna- 
stock (11,920' ; splendid view) is ascended without very serious difficulty 
from the club-hut in 41/2-6 hrs. (guide from Meiringen , 40 fr. ; descent by 
the Rhone Glacier to the Furka in 4 hrs.). — The Schneettock (11,837'} 
5 hrs.), Rhonestock (11,825'; 5 hrs.), Diechlerhorn (11,120'; 4 hrs.), and Owiich- 
tenhorn (10,560': 4 hrs.) may also be ascended from the Trift Hut by 
experts without difficulty. — Passes to the Odtohenen-Alp over the Winter- 
berg Range ( Maasplank-joch, Damma Past, Winter-Joch), 8 hrs., difficult 
(comp. p. 131). — Over the Tiefen-Sattel (10,820) and the Tie/en Qlacter 
(p. 139) to the Furka, 9 hrs., interesting, and in certain states of the snow 
not difficult. — An interesting pass crosses the Furtwang- Battel (8392') to 



SUSTENPASS. Maps,pp.l30,142. — II.R.39. 153 

Gutlannen. A steep ascent of 3 hrs., beginning at the Windegg-Biittt (6235'), 
opposite the Gvaggi-Hiitte on the W. side of the glacier, leads through 
"the Schattig-Triftihali to the saddle, whence we descend by the Steinhaus- 
Alp to Guttannen in 3 hra. more. The attractive route over the Stein- 
Limmi (8970 1 ) to the Stein-Alp leads from the Graggi-Butte by the Trift 
Glacier and the Droii-Thal to the (2'/2 hrs.) col, between the Giglistoek and 
Torder- Thierberg, and descends over the Stein-Limmi Glacier and round the 
slopes of the Thaleggli to the (2 hrs.) Stein Inn (see below). By combining 
the two last-named passes, a good walker may reach the Stein-Alp from 
Guttannen in a single day (11-12 hrs.). 

The road crosses the Gadmenbach and ascends by Schaftelen to 
(1 hr.) Vnterfuren (3720'), where the beautiful Oadmen-Thal begins, 
and (20 min.) the village of Gadmen, consisting of the hamlets of An 
der Egg, Buhl (3960'; Bar, moderate), and Obermatt. (Path over the 
Satteli to the Engstlen-Alp, see p. 161.) The green valley with its 
fine old maple-trees contrasts strikingly with the barren and pre- 
cipitous Qadmer Fluh (see p. 150). To the E., on the slope of the 
Vratstocke (9546 r ), lies the Wenden Olacier. 

After a level stretch the road ascends through wood in numer- 
ous windings to the chalets of Feldmoos (4935'), and then traverses 
a wild rocky region ('Holle') to the (2i/ 2 hrs.) *Stein Inn (6122'; 
pens. 6-7 fr.), at the foot of the huge Stein Olacier. 

Ovee the Susten-Limmi to the Goschenen-Alp, 8 hrs., laborious (guide 
from Meiringen 85 fr.). We ascend the slopes of the Thaleggli, cross the 
Stein-Limmi Glacier to the Thierbergli, and traverse the neve' of the Stein 
Glacier to the (5 hrs.) Susten-Limmi (10,1800, lying between the Gwachten- 
horn (11,245') and the Gleticherhorn (ll,445 r ). Descent over the Susten Glacier 
to the Kehlen-Alp (7560') and across the Kehle Glacier to the Hintere Rolhe 
and (3 hrs.) Goschenen-Alp (p. 131). — A more difficult pass is the Thier- 
berg-Limmi (about 10,500') : we cross the Steinen Glacier to the col be- 
tween the Gwachlenhorn and the Hinter - Thierberg (10,965') , and descend 
(very steep and difficult) the Kehle Glacier to the (9-10 hrs.) Goschenen- 
Alp. — Ascent of the "Sustenhorn (11,5200, the highest of the SuetenhSrner , 
via the Steinen Glacier, toilsome but interesting (OV2-6 hrs. from the Stein 
Inn; guide 30 fr.). The descent may be made to the Voralp Mut, or via, 
the Susten-Limmi to the GSschenen-Alp (p. 131). 

Over the Stein-Limmi to the Trift Glacier (5 hrs. to the Windegg Hut), 
see above. Another route crosses the snow-saddle of Zwischen-Thierbergen 
(about 9780'), between the Vorder- and the Hinter- Thierberg, to the (6-7 hrs.) 
Trift But (see p. 152). — To Engelberg over the Wenden-Joch, see p. 146. 

The bridle-path now leads above the moraine, and ascends in 
windings (short-cut), overlooking the grand Steinen Glacier, en- 
vironed by the Sustenhorner, Susten-Limmi, Gwachtenhorn, Hinter- 
and Vorder-Thierberg, and Giglistoek, to the (IV4 hr.) Susten Pass 
(74200, between the Heuberg (8510') on the left (ascent 1 hr., 
interesting), and the Sustenspitz (9615') on the right. Admirable 
survey, to the E., of the imposing mountains bounding the Meien- 
Thal on the N. and culminating in the Spannbrter (p. 145). 

The path, now uninteresting, winds down to the Meienbach, 
a brook issuing from the Kalchthal, a wild gorge on the right, into 
which avalanches often fall from the Stucklistock (10,855') and the 
Hintere Sustenhorn (10,890' ; over the Susten-Joch to the Voralp- 
Biitte, see p. 132). Below us lie the Susten- Alp (5767Q, on the 
right, and the (1 hr.) Quferplatten-Alp (5725') , on the left. The 



154 II. Route 40. WOLHUSEN. 

path traverses the stony valley of the Meien-Reuss, and crosses the 
brook twice. It next crosses the deep ravine of the (% hr.) Ooret- 
mettlenbach (5137 r ) , and passes the Oorezmettlen-Alp. Several 
brooks issue from the Riittiflrn on the right. 

The first group of houses (20 min.) is Farnigen (4787'; poor 
inn); then, below the chapel, the hamlets of (40 min.) Meien 
(4330' ; Hotel zum Sustenpass, R. I-IV2 fr- i Stern, both unpretend- 
ing ; Alpenrbsli, moderate) and (20 min.) Husen (3865'). At the end 
of the valley we pass the Meienschanz (3600'), an intrenchment 
erected in 1712 during the Religious War (p. 71), and destroyed by 
the French in 1799. Descending rapidly for a short way, and cross- 
ing the St. Gotthard Railway, we at length reach (40 min.) Wassen 
(p. 126). 

40. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmen-Thal. 

60 M. Railway in 2V4-4hrs. (10, 7, 5 fr.). 

Lucerne, see p. 94. — Near the Reuss bridge the train diverges to 
the left from the Zurich line (p. 93), and passes through a tunnel 
under the Zimmeregg, 1248 yds. long, into the broad valley of the 
Kleine Emme. 3'/2 M. Littau, at the base of the wooded Sonnenberg 
(p. 99). — 71/2 M. Matters (1693'; Bahnhof; Kreuz), with a hand- 
some church. 

Road bence (diligence twice daily in I1/4 hr., fare i l /t fr. ; carr. 5 fr.) 
to (3V« M.) Schwarzenberg (2760'; 'Btt.-Peru. Matt, R. l»/« fr., B. 80 c, D. 2, 
8. H/4, pens. 4-5 fr. ; Weiisee Kreuz, pens. 4-5 fr. ; RSstli), on the hill to the 
S., a pleasant summer-resort. About 2 M. above it is the health-resort of 
Eigenthal (3380'; 'Pens. Burri, 5-5 l /2 fr.), in a sheltered situation. (Fine 
view of Lucerne and its lake from the WUrzenegg.) Hence to (6 M.) Krieiu, 
see p. 99. 

From Schachen (see below) the old Beamego Road leads to the (2M.) 
prettily-situated Farnbtihlbad (2460'; 'Cvrhaus, pens. 5-6 fr.), with chalyb- 
eate springs, and thence over the Bramegg (3366') to (6 M.) Entlebuch. 

Above Schachen (IY2M. from Malters) the valley contracts. The 
train approaches the Kleine Emme, and crosses it near Werthenstein 
(on the left), with its monastery, now a deaf-and-dumb asylum. 
Beyond a short tunnel we reach (12'/2 M.) Wolhusen (1873' ; pop. 
1921 ; Rossli, R. 11/2-2, B. 1, D. 2 fr. ; Kreuz), a large village, divided 
by the Kleine Emme into Wolhusen- Wiggern on the left bank, and 
Wolhusen- Markt opposite. 

Fkom Wolhusen to Langenthal, 24i/ 8 M., light railway in 2 hrs. From 
(3 M.) Menznau (Lamm) a road (diligence twice daily in 2 hrs.) leads to tbe 
(6 M.) health-resort of fflenzberg (3314'; 'Curhaui, R. 1-2, B. 1. D. 2-3, S. l'/j, 
pens. 5-6 fr.), in richly wooded surroundings at the foot of the Napf (p. 156). — 
7 M. Williaau (1830"; pop. 1596; Rauti, Stern), a pleasant little town at the 
confluence of the Buchwiggern and Enzwiggem, with a handsome church and 
an old castle. The line now turns to the W. and runs by Qellnau, Zell on the 
Lutherbach, and Hiituil to (16 M.)Huttwil (2105'; pop. 3376; Krone, R. l'/ifr., 
D. 1 fr. 80, S. 1 fr. 20 c, pens. 4-4>/a fr. ; Mohr), a thriving place with mineral 
baths. Beyond (18'/« M.) Rohrbach the line descends the Langelen Valley, with 
its rich meadows, via Kleindietwil, Lindenholz, Mddiswl, (22 M.) Outenburf, 
with mineral baths (H6tel Bad Gutenburg, R. l l /2-2, B. 1, D. 2-2tyi, pens. 
5-6 fr.), LoUvril, and (24i/s M.) Langenthal (p. 19). 



SCHUPFHEIM. II. Route 40. 155 

We here enter the Entlebuch, a valley 15 M. long, with wooded 
slopes and rich pastures. The train reorosses the Emme and ascends 
the E. side of the valley (several embankments and tunnels). 

18 M. Entlebuch (2255'; pop. 2677; *H6tel du Port; Drei 
Konige; *Pension Jenni), a large village, picturesquely situated. — 
Ascent of the Napf, see p. 156. 

From Entlebuch to the Schimberg-Bad, IOV2 M., hotel-omnibus every 
afternoon in 3 hr«. (5fr., in the reverse direction 4fr.); carriage for 1 pers. 10, 
2 pers. 15, 3 pers. 18, 4 pers. 22 fr. The road ascends the Entlen-Thal to the 
(5'/2 M.) Engstlenmatt Inn, descends to the Entlen-Brilcke, and again ascends 
in windings to the (5 M.) Schimberg-Bad (4680'; 'Curhaus, K. 2-3'/z, B. 
H/4, D. 372, S. 21/2, pens. 7-9 fr.), with an alkaline sulphur-spring. Fine 
mountain-view to the N. and N.W. A good path ascends in 1 hr. to the 
top of the Schimberg (5975 1 ), which affords an admirable panorama. Still 
grander and more extensive are the views from the (2'/2 hrs.) "Feuer- 
stein (6700') and from the (2y 4 hrs.) Schafmatt (6505'). Footpaths lead also 
to (IV2 hr.) Heiligkreuz (see below), to the (2'/2 hrs.) Schwendi- Kaltbad 
(p. 148), etc. 

The train crosses the rapid Entlenbach, which here falls into the 
Kleine Emme. On the left lies the village of Hasle, prettily situated. 

221/2 M. Schupfheim (2388'; pop. 3042; Adler; Kreuz; Rotsli), 
capital of the valley. About 1/2 M. from the station are the Bad $ 
Curhaus Schupfheim (chalybeate spring, with iodine). To the E. 
(l*/2 hr.) i s Heiligkreuz (3700'; pens. 4-4Y2 fr-)> a summer-resort, 
with fine view. 

A road (diligence twice daily in l*/« hr. ; carr. for one pers. 5, two pers. 
7 fr.) gradually ascends to the S. through the picturesque valley of the 
Waldemrne or Kleine Emme, to the (5 M.) pretty mountain-village of Fluhli 
(2930'; 'Curhaut, E. from I1/2, B. 1, D. 2, S. H/2, pens, from 5 fr.), with 
a sulphur-spring. Fine woods; rich flora. Pleasant excursions to (1 hr.) 
the Kessiloch, a rocky gorge with a high waterfall; to the (3 hrs.) Beichlen 
(oSlO 1 ; see p. 156); to the (3>/2 hrs.) Hagleren (6400'); and to the (4 hrs.) 
'Schratlen/luhe (6810'), with interesting slopes of debris and a splendid view, 
particularly from the Scheibengiitsch (6690'), the W. point of the long ridge. 

From Fliihli a road (diligence daily in l»/4 hr.) leads to (0V2 M.) 
Sorenberg (3812'; "Curhaus, pens. 4-4'/2 fr. ; "Hdt.-Pem. Marienthal, similar 
prices), a health-resort in the upper Emmen-Thal or Marien-Thal. The 
road goes on for about 5'/2 M. more to the foot of the 'Brienzer Rolhhorn 
(p. 202), which may be ascended hence in 3 hrs. (guide, desirable, G fr.). 

Fkom Fluhli to Sarnen via the Seewenegg, 6V2 hrs., an attractive 
route. The path diverges to the left, 8/4 M. to the S. of Fluhli, passes the 
hamlet of Kragen and the Alps of Bleiki, Eggli, Staldeli, and Blaltli, leads 
through wood and past a saw-mill, and reaches (3 hrs.) the *Seewen-Alp 
(5640'; Curhaus, R. IV2-2, pens. 4 1 /2-5 fr.), a health-resort on the Seewen Seeli 
(5545'). Splendid view of the Bernese Alps. The 'Feuerstein (6700"), which 
affords an imposing survey of the Alps, from the Sentis to Mt. Blanc, 
is easily ascended hence in 1 hr. — From the Seewen- Alp the footpath 
ascends the (20 min.) Seewenegg (5750 1 ), another fine point of view. It 
then descends to the right into the valley, passing a saw-mill and leav- 
ing the Schwendi- Kaltbad (p. 148) to the left, to Stalden and (3 hrs.) 
Barnen (p. 147). 

We now cross the Kleine Emme and ascend the valley of the 
Weisse Emme to — 

27 M. Escholzmatt(2815'; *Lowe, R. 172-2, B. 1, D. 21/2, pens. 
4'/ 2 -5 fr. ; Krone, pens. 4-5 fr.), a scattered village and health-resort 
(3120 inhab.) with a new Gothic church, on the watershed between 



156 II. Route 40. EMMEN-THAL. 

the Entlebuch and Emmen-Thal. From here we may easily ascend 
the Beichlen (581C) in 2 l / 2 hrs. (magnificent view). — We next de- 
scend to (29 M.) Wiggen (2600'; Rossli). 

From Wiggen a road ascends to the S. through the Flfit-Thal (diligence 
to Schangnan twice daily in 1 hr. 50 min.) via. Marbach (2887 1 ; Krone) and 
Wald to (7>/2 M.) Schangnau (3055' ; "L9u>e) in the Oroue Emmen-Thal. From 
Schangnan the 'Hohgant (7215') may be ascended in 5-6 hrs. by the Laulere 
Wangli (guide desirable ; rustic quarters in the Mail- Alp or the Orosien- 
tteinen-Alp, l'/g hr. from Schangnau). Descent to Sabkern, gee p. 182. — 
About 4'/2 M. above Schangnau in the upper Emmen-Thal (road via Burn- 
bach) is the Kemmeriboden-Bad (3100'; Curhaut, modest, pens. 5 fr.), with 
sulphur-springs, much visited by the natives. It lies at the base of the 
Scheibengiltsch (6690 1 ), which may be ascended hence in 3 hrs. (see p. 155). 
From the Kemmeriboden-Bad to the top of the Eohgant (see above), 3'/j- 
4 hrs., with guide; to the Tannhorn (7290*), with imposing view, 4-4Vjhrs., 
with guide (the descent may be made to Brienz, p. 202). 

"We now follow the right bank of the Efis, and reach (32'/2 M.) 
Trubschachen (2396'), at the confluence of the Trubbaeh and litis, 
the first village in Canton Bern. 

The "Napf (462C; 31/2-4 hrs., guide needless; Vnn at the top, health- 
resort, overcrowded on Sat. & Sun., pens. 5-6 fr.), to the N. of Trubschachen, 
deserves a visit. A road leads via (2>/4 M.) Trvb (2676 1 ; inn) to (BM.) 
Met lien (3454'; carr. for 1 pers. to this point, 6 fr.), and a bridle-path thence 
to the ( 3 /4 hr.) top of the Napf, whence there is a fine panorama from the 
Sentis to the Dole, and a beautiful view of the Bernese Alps. — From 
Entlebuch (p. 155) a road crosses the Enllenbach and the Kleine Emme, to 
the W.; we then either follow the road by Dopletchacmd to (5 M.) Romooi 
(2592' ; inn), or reach the same point by a direct path in 1 hr. ; from Bomoos 
a good bridle-path leads to the top in 2>/2 hrs. more. — From the Napf a 
footpath, with almost continuous view, leads via the (2 hrs.) Luts-HUtlt 
(rustic inn), the Liideren-Alp (Hotel zu den Alpen, pens, from 4 fr.), and 
the Rafriiti (see below) to (4 hrs.) Langnau (guide, desirable, 5-6 fr.). 

36i/ 2 M. Langnau (2245'; pop. 8167; *Hirsch, R.2, B. 1, D.^i/a. 
pens, from 5fr.; *Lowe, R. 2-4, B. 1, D. 21/2, S. IV2. P en s- 7fr.; 
Bar; Hot. Bahnhof; Hdt. Emmenthat), a large and wealthy village, 
is the capital of the Emmen-Thal, a valley about 25 M. long, 10-12 M. 
wide, watered by the Ilfis and the Orosse Emme, and one of the most 
fertile in Switzerland. Carefully kept pastures, a fine breed of cattle, 
and neat dwellings with pretty gardens indicate the prosperity of 
the natives. 

Railway to Burgdorf, see p. 20. — The Bageschuand BShe , 1 hr. to 
the N.W. , commands a fine view of the Emmen-Thal and the Alps; the 
view from the Rafriiti (3950'), 2'/« hrs. to the N. , is still more extensive 
(panorama by G. Studer). 

Beyond Langnau the train crosses the Ilfls and the Emme. 38 M. 
Emmenmatt, 4OV2M. Signau (2090'; Bar; Thnrm), 441/2 M. Zaziwil 
(Krone), thriving villages. It then skirts the Hurtiberg in a wide 
curve to (47 M.) Konolfingen-Stalden (•Hotel-Restaurant Bahnhof), 
where it intersects the electric line from Btirgdorf to Thun (p. 20). 
— 491/2 M. Tagertschi. — 52 M. Worb (*Bar; Lowe; Stern), a 
large village with a Schloss dating from the 11th cent, (steam tram- 
way via Giimligen and Muri to Bern, see p. 160). Fine view of 
the Bernese Alps and the Stockhorn chain to the left. 



SEETHAL. II. Route 41. 157 

Boad to the E. to (2 M.) Enggistein (2264'; *Inn, pens. 31/2-472 fr.), with 
mineral springs, situated in a pleasant valley, and to the (1 M. farther) 
"RiittihuhelDftd (2414'; R. from I1/2 fr., B. 70-80 c, D. 1 fr. 60, S. 1 fr. 50, 
pens. 3 fr. 80-4 fr. 80 c), with a saline chalyheate spring, pleasant walks, 
and a fine view, especially from the Knorihubel (3027'; 35 min.). Magnificent 
view also from the * Aetzriittiegg (3120'), reached by Wikartswil *.a,n& the 
Jfenziuilegg (3060') in l^hr., and from the Ballenbuhl , the W. summit of 
the Hiirnberg, reached by Schlostwil in l 3 /4 hr. (descent to the station of 
Tagertschi in 20 min.). — From stat. Walkringen (p. 20) to Riittihubelbad 
in 25 min. (carr. for^l^pers.^ 1 ^ fr.). 

55 M. Oumligen, junction of the Bern and Thun line (change 
carriages for Thun, p. 169). Thence to — 
60 M. Bern, see p. 169. 

41. From lucerne to Wildegg (Aarau). The Seethal 
Railway. 

31 M. Steam Tkamwat inI2i/3-3 hrs. ; 2nd cl. 5 fr. 10, 3rd cl. 3 fr. 60 c. 
From Lucerne to (2*/2M.) Emmenbriicke, see p. 21 (also electric 
tramway, p. 95); here we change carriages for the 'Seethalbahn', 
which diverges to the right. 

4 M. Emmen (1410' ; Stern, R. 1-2 fr.), near the Reuss, on the 
right bank of which , l fe M. to the E., is the old nunnery of Rath- 
hauaen , now an asylum for poor children. "We traverse the fertile 
Emmenboden to (6 M.) Waldibrucke. The line quits the road, here 
unsuitable for a tramway, and ascends, affording a fine view of the 
Rigito the right, to (8 M.) Eschenbach (1560'; Rossli; Lowe), with 
its large Cistercian Abbey and valuable gravel -pits. (Diligence 
twice daily in 40 min. to Oisikon, p. 93.) 

At (9i/2 M.) Ballwil (1693') we cross the watershed between 
the Reuss and the Aa, and descend into the Seethal, one of the 
most fertile and attractive valleys in Central Switzerland. This 
'lake-valley', 18'/2 M. long, is bounded on the E. by the long Lin- 
denberg (2953') and on the"W. by the Ehrlose (2670') and the Bom- 
berg (2595'). In the middle of it lie the pretty Baldegg Lake or 
Obere See and the larger Hallwil Lake or Vntere See. 

11 M. Hochdorf (1653'; pop. 1644; Hirsch, R. ll/ 2 -2, B. 1 fr.; 
Kreuz, both plain), a picturesque and prosperous village, with 
beautiful pine-woods near it. Near the station is the new Theatre, 
with 1300 seats, where popular dramas are given in summer (Sun., 
2-5 p.m). 

Excdesions. On a hill to the E. O/2 hr.) is the cantonal deaf-and-dumb 
asylum of Hohenrain (2014'), formerly a commandery of the knights of 
St. John, with a fine view of the Alps. Thence to (l'^hr.) Schloss Horben (2626'; 
Pens.); superb view to the N. and E.; then to P/2 hr.) Lieli, another fine 
point, with the ruined castle of Niinegg, to 0/2 hr.) Augsthoh (hydropathic), 
and back to O/2 hr.) Hochdorf. This excursion may be made by carriage. 

Roads lead to the W. from Hochdorf by Romertwil to (4 II.) Oberreinach, 
a ruin, with admirable view of the Seethal and the Jura ; by the pilgrimage- 
shrine of Bildisriedea to the (5 M.) memorial chapel of the battle of 
Sempach (p. 21); and by Urswil to (3V2.M.) Rain, near Oberbuchen (2133'), 
where we get a picturesque survey of Pilatus and the Entlebuch Mts. 



158 27. Route 41. BEINWIL. 

12V2 M. Baldegg (Lowe), a pretty Tillage with an old castle, 
now a nunnery and girls' school, lies at the S.E. end of the Bald- 
egger See (1530'), a lake 3 M. long. Skirting the E. bank of the 
lake, we next reach (15 M.) Oelftngen (Stern), where the vine 
begins. Charming view of the lake and the Bernese Alps. On the 
right is the castle of Heidegg, and 3 / 4 M. to the N. is the pretty 
village of Hitzkirch (Kranz ; Engel), once a Teutonic commandery, 
with a seminary for teachers. 

To the N. of Hitzkirch a road (diligence from Gelfingen to Fahrwangen 
twice daily in 1 hr. 10 min.) leads by Altwis and Aesch to (5 M.) Fahr- 
wangen (Bar) and Meisterschwanden (Lowe ; "Pens. Seerose), two large vil- 
lages where straw-plaiting is the chief industry (see below) ; thence via 
Sarmemdorf and Schloss Hilfikon to Villmergen and (5 M.) Wohlen (p. 26). 

16*/4 M. Richensee, with the ruins of the Orunenburg, which 
was destroyed in 1386, standing upon an enormous erratic block. 
17 M. Ermensee, a large village on the Aa. At (18 M.) Mosen the 
tramway reaob.es the Hallwiler See (1490'), a lake 5*/2 M. long and 
l 1 /* M. broad (small steamer), and ascends on its "W. bank to — 

20M.Beinwil(1700'; 1829inhab.; Lowe), a thriving village with 
laTge cigar-manufactories , commanding a charming view of the lake. 

Railway in 5 min. to (l'/4 M.) Reinach (Rossli) and in 9 min. to (2'/2 M.) 
Menzikon (Stern, pens. 4-7 fr.) , two industrial villages with flourishing 
tobacco-factories, in the upper Winen-Thal. — From Beinwil a good path 
ascends in 50 min., partly through wood, to the "Homberg (2595'; good inn, 
5 min. below the top, R. l'/2-2, pens. 3-4'/2 fr.), the 'Rigi of the Aargau'; 
beautiful view of the Alps and the Jura Mts. Descent to (20 min.) Btrrtcil 
(see below), or to (25 min.) Reinach (see above). 

The cars run high above the lake to (21 l / t M.) Birrwil, with 
its large factories, and descend to (23^2 M.) Boniswil-Seengen (Rail. 
Restaurant), a busy wine-trading place. 

To Fahbwangen, diligence twice daily in 1 hour. The road leads past 
the handsome old chateau of Hallwil, the ancestral seat of the distin- 
guished family of that name, to (f/2 M.) Seengen (Bar), a large village, 
with the burial-vaults of the Hallwil family. About 1 /i M. to the S.E. is 
the Brestenberg Hydropathic, formerly a chateau of Hans Rudolph von 
Hallwil, built in 1625, prettily situated among vineyards at the N. end 
of the Lake of Hallwil. Road from Seengen to (l'A M.) 'Pens. Eichberg 
(1985') , a health-resort commanding a fine view (pens. 4 fr.). — From 
Brestenberg we follow the road on the E. bank to Tennwil, Metiter- 
schwanden, and (2 M.) Fahrwangen (see above). 

24 ] / 2 M. Niederhallwil-Durrenasch ; 25 '/a M. Seon (Stern), a 
manufacturing village (1794 inhab.); 27 1 / 2 M. Lenzburg-Bahnhof, 
the junction for Aarau and Baden (p. 26). 

291/2 M. Lenzburg-Stadt (1300'; 2580 inhab.; "Krone; Lowe), a 
busy little town on the Aa, with the large cantonal prison. The huge 
Malaga Vaults of Herr Zweifel may be visited. On a hill above the 
town, to theE., stands the picturesque oliSchloss Lenzburg (1663'), 
the property of Mr. Jessup, an American, who has restored it in the 
original style (garden open on Wed. and Sun.). Opposite, to the W., 
rises the Staufberg (1710'), with an old church and a fine view. 

30 M. Nieder-Lenz. — 31 M. Wildegg, a station on the railway 
from Aarau via Brugg to Zurich (p. 26). 



III. BERNESE OBEELAKD. 



See the Maps at pp. 170, 172, 182, 183, 130, 212, 276, 280, 340. 



42. Bern 160 

Enge. Gurten. Zimmerwald. The Gurnigel Bad, 168. 

43. From Bern to Thun 169 

Environs of Thun, 170. 

44. The Niesen 171 

45. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun 172 

a. Thunersee Railway 172 

b. Steamboat Journey 178 

Sigriswil. From Spiez to Aeschi, 174. — Renggli Pass, 

175. — St. Beatenberg; Amisbiihel; Giiggisgrat, 176. 

46. Interlaken and Environs 177 

Heimwehfluh; Abendberg; Saxeten - Thai ; Sulegg; 
Morgenberghorn ; Schwalmeren ; Goldswil ; Ringgenberg ; 
Harder; Habkern-Thal ; Schynige Platte, 180-183. 

47. The Lauterbrunnen Valley and Miirren 183 

Isenfluh, 183. — Schmadribach Fall. Upper Steinberg, 
185. — Tanzbodeli; Oberhornsee, 186. — 'Allmendhubel. 
Schilthorn, 187. — The Sefinen-Thal. From Miirren over 
the Sefinen-Furgge to the Kienthal; over the Hohthurli 
to Kandersteg, 188. — From Lauterbrunnen over the 
Tschingel Pass to Kandersteg; over the Petersgrat to the 
Lotschen-Thal. Mutthorn Hut. Wetterlucke, Schmadri- 
Joch , Lauithor , Roththal - Sattel , and Ebnefluh - Joch. 
Roththal Hut, 189, 190. 

48. From Interlaken to Grindelwald 190 

a. Direct Line 190 

b. Wengern-Alp Railway 191 

Mettlen-Alp. Jungfrau, 192. — Silberhorn. Eiger Glacier. 
Jungfrau Railway. Lauberhorn, 193. — Mannlichen. 
Guggi Club Hut, 194. — From Grindelwald over the Eis- 
meer to the Zasenberg, 196. — Mettenberg ; Wetterhorn ; 
Berglistock; Schreckhorn ; Monch; Eiger. From Grin- 
delwald over the Strahlegg and the Finsteraar-Joch or 
Lauteraar - Sattel to the Grimsel Hospice, 197. — From 
Grindelwald over the Jungfrau-Joch, Monchjoch, Eiger- 
Joch, and Fiescher-Joch to the Eggishorn, 197, 198. 

49. The Faulhorn 198 

From Grindelwald to the Faulhorn, 198. — From the 
Schynige Platte to the Faulhorn. From the Faulhorn to the 
Great Scheidegg, 199. — Rothihorn. Schwarzhorn, 200. 

50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz . . . 200 

Gorge of the Aare. Reichenbach Falls. 201. — Gorge 
of the Alpbach. Hasleberg. Hohnnh. Hohenstollen. 
Brienzer Rothhorn, 202. — Giessbach, 203. — Rauft. 
Enge. Axalp. Hinterburg-See. Ascent of the Faulhorn 
from the Giessbach. From the Giessbach to Inter- 
laken, 204. 

61. From Meiringen to Grindelwald 204 

Falls of the Reichenbach. Baths of Rosenlaui, 205. — 
Rosenlaui Glacier ; Dossen-Hiitte; Wetter limmi; Rosen- 
egg, 206. 



160 III. Route 42. BERN. Eoteh. 



52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel . . 207 

Urbach-Thal; Gauli Club Hut; Gauli Pass, 207. — Bergli- 
Joch ; Dossen Hut, 208. — Kleine Siedelhorn. Unteraar 
Glacier, 209. — Dollfus Pavilion; Ewigschneehorn ; 
Finsteraarhorn. From the Grimsel over the Oberaar- 
Joch to the Eggishorn Hotel, 210. — Over the Studer- 
Joch, or the Oberaar-Rotbjoch to Fiesch, 211. 

53. From Spiez to Leuk over the Gemmi 211 

Kienthal ; Gamchilucke ; Biittlassen ; Gspaltenbom ; 
Wilde Frau. Steinschlaghorn. The Blaue See, 212. — 
The Oeschinen-See. Bliimlisalp, 213. — Doldenhorn; 
Friindenhorn; Diindenhorn ; Gastern-Thal ; Alpschelen- 
hubel ; Tschingel Pass ; Petersgrat. Balmhorn, 214. — 
Altels ; Wildstrubel, 215. — Excursions from Bad Leuk ; 
Torrent-Alp, etc., 216. 

54. From Gampel to Kandersteg. LStschen Pass . . . 217 

Hohgleifen; Bietschhorn, 218. — From Ried to Leuk 
over the Ferden Pass, the Gitzi-Furgge, the Resti Pass, 
the Faldum Pass, or the Niven Pass, 218. 

55. From Frutigen to Adelboden 219 

Excursions and ascents from Adelboden. Bonderspitz. 
Elsighorn. Albrist. Gsiir. Gross-Lohner. Wildstrubel, etc. 
From Adelboden to Lenk via, the Hahnenmoos ; to Kander- 
steg via the Bonderkrinden ; to Schwarenbach via, the 
Engstligen-Grat; to Sierre over the Strubelegg, 219-220. 

56. From Spiez to Saanen through the Simmen-Thal . . 221 

Diemtig-Thal. Grimmi-Alp, 221. — Stockhorn. Bad 
Weissenburg. Over the Gantrisch Pass to the Gurnigel- 
bad. 222. — From Reidenbach to Bulle. Charmey. Bad 
Schwefelberg. Ottenleue-Bad. Hundsriick. Riederberg, 
223. — From Saanen to Chateau-d'Oex, 221. 

57. From Spiez (Thun) to Lenk and to Sion over the Ra-wyl 224 

Source of the Simme ; Oberlaubhom;Mulkerblatt ; Iffigen- 
see ; Wildhorn ; Rohrbachstein ; Wildstrubel. From 
Lenk to Gsteig ; to Saanen ; to Adelboden, 224-226. 



42. Bern. 

Railway Station (PI. C, 3; -Restaurant), on the W. side of the town, 
at the foot of the Grosse Schanze. Departing travellers should note that 
hotel-servants are not allowed upon the platform or upon the flight of 
steps leading to it from the entrance-hall. 

Hotels. -Beknebhof (PI. a; D, 4), Bundesgasse 3, with lift, R. 51/2-15, 
B. 1V«, dej. 4, D. 5 fr. ; "Bellevde (PI. b ; E, 4), Inselgasse 3, R. 4-8, B. 1>/j, 
dtj. 3, D. 4'/2, pens, from 10 fr. ; both these command a view of the Alps. 
— 'Schweizeehof (PI. c ; C, 3), R. 3-5, B. I1/2, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 8-10 fr.; 
"Hotel de France (PI. e; C, 3), R. 2V*-4, B. l'/ 4 , D. 3, pens. 9-11 fr.; 
Hotel dd Jora (PI. d ; C, 4), R. 21/2-4, B. iy 4 , D. 3, S. 2'/2 fr- ; Hotel dk 
la Poste (PI. s ; D. b), R. 2-4, B. li/4, D. 3, S. 2i/ 2 fr. ; Lowe (PI. i ; C, D, 4), 
Spitalgasse, R. 2-3'/a. B. V/ t . D. 3, pens. 7-9 fr. ; Hotel Bahnhop (PI. t; 
D, 3), R. 2-3, B. li/<, D. 2i/ 2 fr.; these all near the station. — In the 
town: "Faucok (PI. f; E, 4), Marktgasse, R. 2i/2-3i/ 2 . B. H/4, D. incl. wine 
372, S. incl. wine 3, pens. 7-9 fr. ; *Pfi6tern (Hdlel des Boulangers; PI. g, E 3), 
near the clock-tower, 11. 2V 2 -3, D. 31/2, pens. 7-10 fr. ; Cigogne (PI. h; 
D, 3, 4), R. 2-3, B. I1/4, D. 3, pens. 8-10 fr. ; Zahringee Hoe (PI. u; B, 2), 
Gesellschafts-Str., near the Grosse Schanze, R. 2-5, B. 1, pens, from 5 fr-; 
•Schmieden (Martchaux; PI. k, E 3), l:. 11/2-21/2, B. 1, D. 21/2 fr. ; Hotel- 
Pension Ruof (PI. 1; D, 3), Waisenhaus-Platz, R. 2, B. 1 fr. ; "Stern 




aph. Anstalt von 



"Warner & Debes ,Lei]>/.i;i. 



DiecMerh 1 ? Hohjgrjj 



2 " , 



Wildjert Hanfcendjgletscherh? Wettefh? B«r^i»tocV 



F *£tt ? firUuterai; 

»«?. ..._ «*3 
«TS2 



Gr.Schreckh 1 ? 






Jungfrau Gittscherh? £t>"tf* uh Mittafeh? Groash? 



8 1 u m I i t a I p 



HaL Bitter W. 



Dol don horn 

Bettftuh 
MM 




ALPENAUSSICHT AUS BERN 

vom Elosterliof bei der Xirdienfeldbrucke (538m). 



Cafes. BERN. III. Route 4,2. 161 

(PI. m; D, 8), Aarbergergasse, plain, E. li/rSVx, D. 2'/« fr.; Hotel zd 
Zimmebleuten {Charpentiers ; PI. n, E 3), Marktgasse; Ceef (PI. 0; D, 3), 
E. 2V2-3, D. 2V2fr.; Odbs (PI. r; D, 4), B. 2-4, D. 3, S. 2 fr., these two 
near the station; 'Hotel du Sauvage (PI. p; D, 3), Aarbergergasse, 
E. lVz-3, B. 1, D. 2"/2 fr.; "Cboix Fedeeale (PI. q; D, 3), Zeughausgasse, 
T.. 2 1 /*, B. 1, S. IV2 fr. ; Emmenthaler Hof (PI. v ; D, 3), Neuengasse, plain ; 
Hotel du Pont (PI. w; E, 5), beyond the Kirchenfeld Bridge (p. 164), E. 
2-5, D. 3, S. 2V2, pens. 6-8 fr.; Hotel Eigeb (PI. z; A, 5), Belp-Str., 
pens. 5-7 fr. 

Pensions. "Herter (PI. q; F, 4), well situated, near the cathedral, 
suitable for ladies travelling alone (pens. 5-6 fr.); Villa Frey, Schwarz- 
thor-Str. 71, pens, from 5 fr. ; •Jolimont, JEussere Enge (IV2 M. ; p. 168), 
with fine view (6-8 fr.). The following are recommended for invalids: 
"Dr. Lantz's Sanatorium Lindenhof, beautifully situated, with shady garden ; 
Pens. Victoria, on the Schanzli (p. 167); Pens. Mug, Maltenhof, V« M. from 
the town (surgical cases). 

Cafes and Eestaurants. Bail. Restaurant; Cafi- Restaurant Bubenberg, 
Bubenberg-Platz; Kornhauskeller (p. 163); Rathskeller, cor. of the Gerechtig- 
keits-Str. and Kreuzgasse; Gesellschaftshaus Museum (p. 166), Baren-Platz, 
corner of the Bundesgasse, dej . or D. 1-2V2 fr.; Cafi National, Schauplatzgasse 3 
(mural paintings of old Bern) ; Cafi Bar, Schauplatzgasse 4 (quaint wall- 
paintings); Cafi Schmieden, at the hotel of the same name (p. 160; historical 
wall-paintings); Weibel, Zeughausgasse (wine); Cafi Stadtgarten, Neuen- 
gasse 22, near the station; Cafi ffacierbrdu, Neuengasse; Cafi du Pont, 
beyond the Kirchenfeld Bridge, to the right, with a fine view; SchaeUen- 
matteli, adjacent, below, to the left (PI. E, 4; fish). — Pofulab Eesoets. 
Cafi Schanzli (p. 167 ; daily concert or theatrical performance in summer) ; 
Cafi de la Paste, Neuengasse; Cafi Sternwarle, on the Grosse Schanze 
(p. 167); Cafi Enge (p. 168), 1 M. from the Aarberg Gate; *Gurten (p. 168). 
— Confectioner. G. Strobel-Durheim, Bahnhofs-Platz. 

Baths. River Baths in the Aare (58-68° Fahr.), at the Marzili (PI. D, 5; 
p. 166); 'Warm Baths in the Sommerleistbad, Laupen-Str. (PI. B, 4; also 
Turkish Baths); Central-Bad, Marktgasse 43. 

Cabs. Inside the town, one-horse, for V« nr - 1-2 pers. 80 c, 3-4 pers. 
1 fr. 20 c. ; for 1/2 " r - 1 fr - 20 and 1 fr- 80 c, >A hr. 1 fr. 60 and 2 fr. 40 c, 
1 hr. 2 and 3 fr. ; each additional t/t hr. 50 or 75 c. Two-horse : same fares 
as for 3-4 pers. with one horse. Box 20 c, small articles free. From 
10 p.m. to 6 a.m., double fares. 

Tramway (electric) from the Bears 1 Den through the chief street to 
the railway-station, and thence to the Cemetery (fares 10-20 c); from the 
railway-station to Wabern (p. 168; 25 c.) and to the Langgasse (Brem- 
gartenwald, 10 c.) ; and from the Burgernzielweg via the Kirchenfeld and 
Kornhaus bridges to the Spitalacker. — Steam Tramway from the Helvetia- 
Platz to Muri, Giimligen, and (6'/4 M., in 33 min.) Worb (p. 156). 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. C, 3), near the station. Branch-office 
in the Kramgasse. 

Theatre in the Gesellschaftshaus Museum (see above), performances 
from Oct. to April (new theatre building in the Kornhaus-Platz , p. 163); 
Summer Theatre at the Schanzli (p. 167). — Apollo Theatre (variety), Lang- 
gasse 83 (tramway-station). 

British Minister, F. R. St. John, Effinger-Str. 49 (office-hours 10-12); 
Consul, Gaston de Murall. — American Minister, John G. A. Leishman ; Con- 
sol, Adolph L. Frankenthal, Hirschengraben 7 (9-12 and 2-4). — English 
Church Service in the Hall of the Lerber Schule, Nageligasse 2, at 10.30 a.m. 
and 5 p.m. (4 p.m. in winter); chaplain, Rev. J. R. Button Thompson. — 
Roman Catholic Church, Tauben-Str. 

The Enquiry Office ( Verkehrs-Bureau), at the E. corner of the railway 
station, Bubenberg-Platz, furnishes gratis information as to sights, excur- 
sions, etc. — Money Changers in the Christoffelgasse, to the S. of the railway- 
station. — Travelling Requisites, Karl Knecht & Co., Christoffelgasse 7. 

Attbactions. Visit the 'Kleine Schanze' and walk past the Federal 
Palace to the Kirchenfeld Bridge and the Historical Museum ; then to the 

Baedkkeb, Switzerland. 19th Edition. \\ 



162 III. Route 42. BERN. Zeitglockenthurm. 

Cathedral (Munster-Terrasse) ; follow the Kreuzgasse to the Rafhhaus ; cross 
the Nydeck Bridge to the Bears' Den; return past the Zeitglockenthurm to 
the Eornhaus-Platz and cross the Kornhaus Bridge to the Schanzli; lastly 
cross the railway-bridge to the Art and Natural History Museums. 

Bern (1765'), the capital of Canton Bern, with 64,000 inhab. 
(including its extensive suburbs), has been the seat of the Swiss 
government since 1848. It is also the seat of a university (1000-1100 
students), founded in 1834, and of the Central Office of the Inter- 
national Postal Union. — The city, in a striking situation, is built 
on a peninsula of sandstone-rock, formed by the Aare, which flows 
100' below. The streets in the old part of the town are flanked 
with arcades (Lauben), which form a covered way for foot-passengers. 
One of the chief characteristics of Bern consists in its numerous 
fountains, mostly dating from the 16th cent., and recently restored. 
In other respects also Bern retains more mediaeval features than 
any other large town in Switzerland. 

Founded by Duke Berthold V. of Zahringen in 1191, the town became 
independent of the Empire in 1218. By 1288 its powers had so increased 
that it warded off two sieges by Rudolph of Hapsburg, and in 1339 the 
Bernese overthrew the Burgundian nobles at the battle of Laupen (p. 238). 
In 1353 Bern joined the Confederation, and in 1528 the citizens embraced 
the reformed faith. In 1415 they conquered part of Aargau, and in 1536 
they wrested the Pays de Vaud from the princes of Savoy; but in 1798 
they were deprived of these territories. 

Bern is celebrated for its splendid 'Views of the Alps, and the phenom- 
enon of the 'Alpine glow' (p. xvi) is seen here to great advantage. The 
most important mountains are marked in the annexed Panorama. From 
other points (the Klosterhof, Bundes-Terrasse, Kleine Schanze, CaK 
Schanzli, and the Enge outside the Aarberger Thor) the following moun- 
tains are also visible : to the right of the Doldenhorn, the Balmhom (12,175') 
with the Altels (11,930'; 37 M. distant), and, over the Ourten, the bell- 
shaped summit of the Stockhorn (7195'; 18 M.) ; also, to the extreme left, 
the peaks of the Spannorter (10,515'; 53 M.) and the Schlossberg (\0,'iSff; 
54 M.), both in the canton of Uri ; the crest of the Beichlen near Escholz- 
matt (5810'; 24 M.), and the Feuerstein above the Entlebuch (6700'; 30 M.). 

The chief artery of traffic is a series of broad streets, the 
Spitalgasse, Marktgasse, Kramgasse, and Gerechtigkeitsgasse, which 
extend from the Bubenberg-Platz (PI. C, 4) to the Nydeck Bridge 
(p. 163), a distance of nearly a mile. In the Spitalgasse is the 
pretty Bagpiper Fountain , dating from early in the 16th century. 
At the beginning of the Makktgassb, where the Baren-Platz and 
the "Waisenhaus-Platz mark the W. limit of the town down to 1346, 
stands the Kaftgthurm (PI. D, 3), restored in the 17th century. The 
Marktgasse contains the fine Schiltzen-Brunnen (Archer Fountain; 
1527) and the Seiler-Brunnen, the latter with a statue of the foundress 
of the Insel Hospital (p. 167) on an ancient marble column. Farther 
on , beyond some interesting old guildhouses ( Weavers , Smiths, 
Carpenters), is the Zeitglockenthurm (PI. E, 3), the W. gate of 
the town in its earliest phase, but now its central point, rebuilt in 
the 15-17th cent., and recently decorated with frescoes. On theE. 
side is a curious clock, which proclaims the approach of each hour 
by the crowing of a cock, while just before the hour a troop of bears 



Cathedral. BERN. III. Route 42. 163 

marches in procession round a sitting figure. Being the heraldic 
emblem of Bern, the bear frequently recurs. Thus, on the neigh- 
bouring Zahringer-Brunnen (PI. E, 3, 4), in the Kramgasse, Bruin 
appears with shield, sword, banner, and helmet. The Samson 
Fountain and the Oerechtigkeits-Brunnen, the latter in the Gerech- 
tigkeitsgasse, also deserve notice. 

The Kornhaus-Platz (PI. E, 3) is embellished with the gro- 
tesque Kindlifresser-Brunnen (Ogre Fountain), with a procession of 
armed bears on the shaft of the column. The Kornhaus (PI. E, 3), 
built in 1711-16, rebuilt and fitted up as a Trades School in 1896, 
contains in the basement the frequented Kornhaus-Keller (restau- 
rant , p. 161) , lately restored and decorated in the early-Bernese 
style). On the upper floor is the cantonal Industrial Museum (col- 
lection of samples and models , open gratis , 9-12 and 2-5, Sun. 
10-12, and on Frid. evening, 7-9). — Near the Kornhaus a new 
Theatre is being built (see p. 161 ; to be ready in 1902). — The im- 
posing ""Kornhaus Bridge, built in 1895-98 from the plans of A. & H. 
von Bonstetten and consisting of an iron roadway 1165' long and 41' 
broad , supported by stone piers, and 157' above the water (main 
arch 400' in span), leads from the Kornhaus-Platz, at an incline of 
2^2 : 100, over the deep valley of the Aare, to the Schanzli (p. 167) 
and the new quarter on the Spitalacker (PI. E-H, 1, 2). 

At the E. end of the Metzgbkgasse are the modern Old Catho- 
lic Church (PI. F, 3), Romanesque-Gothic , designed by Deperthes 
of Rheims, and the Bathhaus or Cantonal Hall (PI. F, 3), erected 
in 1406-16 in the Burgundian late-Gothic style, and restored in 
1862. The Rathhaus , approached by a fine flight of steps, and 
adorned with the arms of the Bernese districts , contains the Great 
Council and the Government Council rooms (fine wood- carving, 
stained-glass windows). — Adjacent is the State Chancellery, a late- 
Gothic building of 1520-41. 

On the E. side of Bern, where the old castle of Nydeck stood, the Aare 
is crossed by the handsome Nydeck Bridge (PI. H, 3), in three arches, built 
in 1844 by K. E. Miiller (tramway, see p. 161). The central arch has a 
span of 165' and is 100' high. On the right bank of the Aare is the 
Bears' Den (Barengraben), where Bruin is maintained, according to im- 
memorial usage, at the cost of the municipality. Bread and fruit are the 
only offerings permitted. — From this point an avenue of planes ascend 
to the right via the Muristalden to the (1/4 hr.) Kirchenfeld Bridge (p. 164), 
affording a good view of the town and of the Matte quarter (p. 166), where 
the current of the Aare is turned to account for various industrial purposes. 

The *Cathedral or Miinster (PI. F, 4), a fine late -Gothic 
edifice, 285' long, 118' broad, and 77' high, was begun in 1421, 
completed in 1598, and restored in 1850. Round the roof runs a 
beautiful open Balustrade, the design of which is different between 
each pair of buttresses. The sculptures of the *W. Portal (end of 
15th cent.) represent the Last Judgment; in the outer arches are 
Christ, above, with the Virgin and John the Baptist on the left and 
right, and the Apostles ; in the inner arches are the Prophets and 

11* 



164 III. Route 42. BERN. Histor. Museum. 

the Wise and Foolish Virgins. The Tower, 328' high, -was com- 
pleted in 1890-94 by Aug. Miillei from plans by Beyer. 

Interior (adm. 20c; Sun., 2-6, free). The Stained Glass on the U. 
side of the Choir (one window representing the dogma of Transubstan- 
tiation) dates from 1496; that on the S. side is modern (1867). The 
Choir Stalls (1523) are adorned on one side with Christ and the Apos- 
tles, on the other with Moses and the Prophets. A monument with the 
armorial bearings of Berthold von Zahringen, the founder of Bern (see p. 162), 
was erected by the city in 1600. Another in memory of the magistrate 
Friedrich von Steiger (d. 1799), bears the names of the 702 Bernese who 
fell on 5th March, 1798, at the Grauholz and at Neuenegg, in an engage- 
ment with the French. In front of this is an Entombment in marble, by 
Tscharner (1870). The great organ dates from 1849 and has 60 stops (per- 
formance four times weekly in summer at 8 p.m.; adm. 1 fr.). — The 
octagonal gallery of the Tower (340 steps; 20 c, to the top 50c. more) 
commands a magnificent view, best in the early morning or the evening. 

The Platz in front of the cathedral is adorned with an Equestrian 
Statue of Rudolph von Erlach , the victor at Laupen (p. 238) , in 
bronze, designed by Volmar of Bern, and erected in 1848, with bears 
at the corners and inscriptions and trophies on the pedestal. 

The *Cathbdbal Terrace [MiXnster-Terrasse ; PI. F, 4), rising 
abruptly 110' above the Aare, formerly the churchyard, is now a 
shady promenade with seats, adorned with a bronze statue of Bert- 
hold von Zahringen (p. 162), by Tscharner, with Bruin as a helmet- 
bearer. The view is justly celebrated. At the S.E. corner an electric 
lift (10 c.) descends to the quarter of Matte (p. 163), on the Aare. 

From the Cathedral Square we follow the Herrengasse to the 
Municipal Library (PI. E, 4; adm. on week-days, 2-4), containing 
numerous works on Swiss history, the University Library, and the Old 
University (PI. E, 4). We then turn to the left and cross the Kloster- 
hof to the *Kirchenfeld Bridge (PI. E, 4; splendid view), a bold 
iron bridge built in 1882-83, 113' above the Aare, which crosses the 
Aare Valley in two spans of 285' each, and connects the old town 
with the Kirchenfeld quarter. 

Here, in the Helvetia-Platz, rises the *Bernese Historical 
Museum (PI. E, 5), a picturesque building in the mediaeval style, 
designed by Lambert. Above the entrance is a large mosaic by 
P. Robert, intended to represent the aims of the museum ; it includes 
figures of History and Poetry, and six male figures typifying the 
ages from prehistoric times to the present. Over the frieze, decorated 
with coats-of-arms, is the inscription: Sic transit gloria mundi. The 
museum is open in summer daily, 8-12 and 1-6, 50 c. ; Sun. lO 1 ^"^ 
and 2-4, Tues. and Sat. 2-4, free. 

Middle Floor (first entered). The vestibule contains a bronze equestrian 
statuette of Adrian van Bubenberg (p. 166), by Lanz, and a Roman mosaic 
pavement from Toffen. — To the left (E.) is the Ethnographical Collection, 
consisting chiefly of objects from N. America (Greenland, United States, 
Canada), the islands of the Pacific (collection of Weber, the companion 
of Capt. Cook on his third voyage), China, Japan, Persia, Central Africa, 
Borneo, and Java. — To the right (W.) is the Archaeological Collection, 
including antiquities from lake-dwellings, implements of the flint, bronze, 
and iron periods, and Roman remains ( fragments of a mosaic floor from 
Herzogenbuchsee, bronze vase from Grachwil). 



Bundeshaus. BERN. III. Route 42. 165 

Uppbe Floob. On the handaome staircase are Armour of the 15-16th cent, 
and modern Weapons and Banners, all from the Bern Arsenal. — To 
the right (E.). Room I. Weapons; Tapestry from Burgundy and the Nether- 
lands, including embroidered Antependia from Lausanne and the Convent of 
Konigsfelden (p. 23), of the 13- 15th cent. ; table from the Bern Town Hall, 
1576 ; Ecclesiastical Vestments of the 14- 16th cent, (by the windows) ; Stained 
Glass of the 16th century. — Room n. Articles in Wrought Iron, including 
some well-preserved swords of the 13-14th cent. ; domestic implements and 
tools; bells; wooden baking moulds; tiled stoves; mediaeval relics; Bernese 
magistrate's chair of the 18th century. — Room III (Silver Chamber). About 
100 silver Guild, Family, and Church Cups; badges of the Bernese guilds; 
-Diptych, formerly supposed to be the field-altar of Charles the Bold, 
made at Venice after 1290 for King Andrew of Hungary, presented before 
1357 to the Convent of Konigsfelden by Queen Agnes, and in Bern since 
the Reformation ; the original MS. of the 'Wacht am Rhein' by Max Schnecken- 
burger; Bernese Coins and Medals. — To the left (W.) of the staircase. 
Room IV. Tapestry from Lausanne and Burgundy (with the Bnrgundian 
and other arms); carved coffers; beadles' and judges' staves; seals; old 
printed and illustrated books; embroidered clothing; fans; miniatures; 
brocaded carpets ; pottery made in the canton of Bern. — From the oriel 
window there is a fine view of the town. — Room V. Views of Bern in 
the 17-18th centuries; seals; pictures of costumes. In an adjoining room, 
more pictures of costumes, musical instruments, etc. — On the upper land- 
ing, modern Swiss weapons and uniforms ; shields of the 16th century. 

Geound Floob. Reproductions of Early Swiss Booms. 

On the S.W. side of the Kirchenfeld is the new Federal Record 
Office with the National Library (reading-room open 10-12 and 2-9). 

On a height to the N."W. of the Kirchenfeld Bridge rises con- 
spicuously the ^Bundeshaus, or Federal Palace (PI. D, 4), a hand- 
some edifice in the Florentine style. The Bundeshaus-Ost, erected 
from Aner's designs in 1888-92, accommodates the departments of 
war, manufactures, and agriculture; the Bundeshaus-Mittelbau or 
Parliamentary Building, a fine domed structure also by Auer (1894- 
1901), contains the chambers of the two legislative assemblies (the 
'Nationalrath' and the 'Standerath'). In front of the N. facade is a 
columned portico , above the pediment of which rises a statue of 
Helvetia , with allegorical figures of the Legislative and Executive 
Powers, by Niederhausern ; under the dome is a relief by Kissling, 
representing the Guards of Mountain and Valley. The S. facade, 
towards the Aare, bears a mosaic frieze decorated with the coats-of- 
arms of the 24 Swiss cantons ; on the cornice are six statues (Far- 
mer, Merchant, and Scholar by Albisetti, Soldier, Artist, and Aiti- 
zan by A. Lanz). The Bundeshaus- West, built by Stadler and Studer 
in 1852-57, contains the Political Department, the Departments of 
the Interior and Justice, etc. In front of the Bundeshaus -West is 
a fountain- figure of Berna, in bronze , on a pedestal adorned with 
figures of the Seasons (1863). Archways on each side of the middle 
building lead on to the *Bundes-Terrasse, adjoining the S. facade, 
with a splendid view of the Alps. — Near the Bundeshaus-Ost is 
the house once owned by A. von Haller (d. 1777), the physician 
and poet; adjacent, at the corner of the Inselgasse, is the Mint 
(1790-93). — In the Baren-Platz (PI. D, 4) is the Museum (restau- 
rant, see p. 161), adorned with statues of celebrated Bernese. 



166 III. Route 42. BERN. Art Museum. 

A Cable Tramway, 360' long (gradient 3:10), descends on the W. side 
of the Bundes-Terrasse to the Harzili quarter (baths, see p. 161). Car 
every 6 min. ; fare 10 c. — Interesting walk thence, under the Kirchenfeld 
Bridge and through the husy Matte quarter, to the old Rathhaus (the 'Burger 
Hus') and the Laufer-Brunnen, adjoining the Nydeck Bridge (p. 163). 

To the W. of the Federal Palace, passing the Bernerhof, a few 
paces bring us to the *Kleine Schanze (PI. C, 4), with its promenades, 
which afford a superb survey of the Bernese Alps (mountain indi- 
cator on the upper terrace), with the Aare Valley and the Kirchen- 
feld Bridge in the foreground. In the grounds is a bust of Niggeler 
(d. 1887), the Swiss 'Turnvater' ('father of gymnastics'). — On the 
N. side of the Kleine Schanze is the new Roman Catholic Church, 
a Romanesque basilica. — The Christoffelgasse leads hence to the 
N. to the Bubenberg-Platz (PI. 0, 4), where a Monument to Adrian 
von Buberiberg (1424-79) , the defender of Morat against Charles 
the Bold, from a design by Leu, was erected in 1897. 

The *Art Museum (Kunst- Museum ; PI. D, 2) in the Waisen- 
haus-Str., built by Stettler in 1879, is open on week-days, 9-12 
and 1-5 (adm. 50 c ; free on Tues. and on Sun., 10.30-12 and 2-4; 
catalogue 50 c). 

Ground Floor. Two rooms to the left contain sculptures and casts. 

The vestibule of the Upper Floor contains statues of Rebecca, Miriam, 
Buth, and David, by Imhof; busts of Bianca Capello and of an Arab 
sheikh, after Marcello (p. 239); Bmrnand, Herd leaving the mountain-pasture. 
On the left, four cabinets with early German, Italian, and Netherlandish 
pictures, including several, by Jfic. Manuel (1484-1520) and others, from Bern 
Cathedral. Adjoining these are four rooms with works of modern Swiss 
painters. Room I. To the left: 42. Castas, Lake of Oeschinen; no number, 
Sandreuter, At the Gate of Paradise; 16. Bocion, Fishermen of St. Saphorin; 
•222. Steffan, Lake of Murg; 85. Frdlicher, Handegg; no number, Louite 
Breslau, Twilight; 112. Annie Hop/, Prayer-meeting in the house of Th. 
Monod at Paris ; 210. St&bli , After the storm ; 187. RudUuhli , Deserted 
castle; "il. Bbcklin , Idyl of the sea; no number, Gos, Alpine lake; 163. 
Potter , Evening in S. Italy; "95. J. Girardet, Lake of Geneva; 147. Diet- 
helm Meyer, Woman of the Simmen-Thal ; 137. Massarani, Oriental life; 242. 
Weiss, Street in Cairo ; no number, E. de Pury, Market-boat. — Room II. 
To the left: 37. Alex. Calame, Waterfall near Meiringen; 144. A. de Meuron, 
Chamois -hunters; 178. Ritz, Engineers in the mountains; Anker, 7b. Boy 
reading to his grandfather, 7a. Soup of the poor; -121. R. Roller, Strayed 
cow and calf; 182. Paul Robert, Echo; 207. Simon, Highroad; 143. A. 
de Meuron, Chamois-hunters resting; 100. C. Grob, Gossips; "226. Vaulier, 
Saying grace ; E. Girardet, 92. Going to school, 93. Alms-giving; 3i. Buchser, 
Caught by the tide; *214. C. Slauffer, Sister of the artist; 7. Anker, The 
little friend; C. Stauffer, "213. Mother of the artist, 219. Study of a skull, 
216. Study of a head, 212. Crucified man; 84. Erohlicher, Landscape in 
Upper Bavaria. — Room III. 43. G. Castan, Entrance of a wood ; 18. Bodmer, 
Woodland springs ; 229. Veillon, Tombs of the Taliphs at Cairo ; 97. K. Girar- 
det, Battle of Morat; 47. Biday , The Lauterbrunnen-Thal; 228. Veillon, 
Spring on the Lake of Brienz ; 38. Alex. Calame, Handegg; 115. Humbert, 
Cattle at a ford; 255. Zimmermann, Arolla Glacier; 48. Diday* Ghalets at 
Wengen; 160. Pixii, Huss bidding farewell to his friends; 117. Jeanmaire, 
In the wood; no number, Benner, Girl drawing water; 256. Ziind, Forest 
landscape in autumn: 6. Anker, Examination at a village- school; 133a. 
A. Lugardon, Gorner Grat; 98. Giron, The model; 83. Frisching, Iseltw&ld; 
39. Arthur Calame, Lake of Geneva at Hermance. — Room IV. 49. Diday< 
Landscape at evening; 209. Snell, Schmadribach ; 155. D'Ortchailler, Apes' 
concert; 8. Bachmann , Going to a christening in winter; 94. E. Girardet, 



Schamli. BERN. III. Route 42. 167 

The wooing; 88. Gehri, Golden wedding; 166. Pre" vast, Wood near the 
Grosse Scheidegg. — Room V (in three divisions). 201. Schroder, Abdication 
of Emp. Henry IV.; 144. Harrer, View of Olevano ; 181. L. Robert, Italian 
girl; 233. Volmar, Giessbaeh; 158. Petua, OntheDoubs; no number, Lathy, 
Expectation ; Anastasio, Ad bestias (Christian martyrs in the arena). 

Opposite is the Natural History Museum (PI. D, 3), built by 
A. Jahn in 1879-81 (open in summer, Tues. and Sat., 2-5, and. 
Sun., 10.30-12.30 and 2-4, free; on other days, 8-6, adm. 50 c). 

Gbouhd Floob. In the entrance-hall are busts of A. von Mailer 
(p. 165) and E. L. Gruner (d. 1883), the geologist; also a geological map 
of Switzerland. By the staircase is a group of chamois. The room to 
the right contains the Collection of Minerals, which includes two cases of 
magnificent crystals from the St. Gotthard and another with large black 
crystals from the Tiefen Glacier (p. 139). Bust of B. Studer (d. 1887). 
To the left is the Palaeontological Collection, rich in Alpine fossils. Perfect 
skeletons of the Irish elk and the cave-bear. Relief of the Bernese Ober- 
land by Ed. Beck. — On the staircase is a fine collection of antlers. — 
On the first and second floors is the Zoological Collection. In the central 
saloon (1st floor), with ceiling-frescoes by Baldancoli, are large ruminants. 
In the room on the left, birds and eggs. In the room on the right, 
mammalia. Adjacent, a small room devoted to the Swiss fauna; Barry, 
the celebrated St. Bernard dog. — On the 2nd floor, to the left, reptiles, 
amphibia, fish, corals, and sponges ; to the right, molluscs, crabs, insects, 
echinodermata, and worms. 

Adjoining the Museum on the S.E. is a large School Building 
(PI. D, 3). — The old Cavalry Barracks (PI. 0, 3) contain the 
interesting Educational Exhibition (groundfloor; daily, except Sun., 
8-11 and 1-4, gratis), the Pharmaceutical Institute (1st floor), and 
the Zoological and Mineralogical-Oeological Institutes (2nd floor). 

The grounds on the Grosse Schanze (PI. B, C, 3) , above the 
station to the W., afford an extensive panorama (small view-tower, 
with mountain-indicator, on the Martinshiigel). At the top are the 
Observatory (1880'), the new University (unfinished), the Women's 
Hospital, and a bust of President Stampfli (d. 1879). 

To the W. of the town, in the continuation of the Laupen-Strasse (PI. A, 
3, 4), are the large Inselspilal, on the pavilion system (1880-84), originally 
founded in 1354 (in the Inselgasse), the University Clinical Institutes , and 
the new Children's Hospital. 

Crossing the Kornhaus Bridge (p. 163) or the Railway Bridge 
(p. 20), at the N.W. end of the town, we pass the Botanic Garden 
(PI. D, 2) and reach (i/ 2 M.) the *Schanzli (PL E, 2), with a cafe'- 
restaurant (p. 161), a summer theatre, a terrace, and grounds com- 
manding the finest view near Bern. In the foreground lies the 
picturesque city; above it rises the wooded Gurten; to the left, the 
Bernese Alps, and to the right, the Stockhorn chain, adjoined by 
the Freiburg Mts. — Beyond the Schanzli, in the Spitalacker and 
Beundenfeld (PI. E-H, 1,2), a new quarter is now springing up. 
Here also is the Military Depdt (PI. H, 1) of Canton Bern. 

About 1 M. to the N. of the Aarberg Gate, on the left bank of the Aare, 
beyond the Law Courts and the Deer and Chamois Park (comp. PI. C, 1), 
is the *Enge (cafe\ see p. 161), rising high above the Aare, with prom- 
enades and view of the town and the Alps. Monument to Gottlieb Studer 
(1804-90), the Alpine authority. Adjacent is the beautiful Bremgarten Forest, 
with marked paths ; one of its prettiest points is the Glasbrunnen, '/« hr. from 



168 III. Route 42. BERN. Gurnigel-Bad. 

the Enge. — Beyond the Enge the walk may be prolonged, past the Pent. 
Jolimont and through fine beech-woods, to the Aare, opposite the chateau 
of Jieichenbach (ferry; the return may be made via Zollikofen, p. 20). 

The view from the *Gurten (2825') , a long hill to the S. of 
Bern, embraces, besides the Bernese Alps (p. 161), the Stockhorn 
chain, the Freiburg Alps , the Jura for a distance of 100 M., with 
parts of the Lake of Neuchltel, and, to the left, the Unterwald and 
Lucerne Mts. as far as Pilatus. Electric tramway (see p. 161) every 
20-30 min. from the Bern railway-station in 16min.to Wdbern (Gur- 
tenbahn Restaurant , with garden) , whence an electric cable rail- 
way (station 5 min. up the hill ; ascent 1 fr. 20, descent 60 c, return 
1 fr. 50 c, Sun. 80 c.) ascends in 10 min. to the station of Ourten- 
kulm (*Curhaus & Hot. -Pens. Gurtenkulm, comfortably fitted up, 
with a large restaurant). 

About 9 M. to the S. of Bern (railway in 20 min. to Kehnatz, see below, 
and thence by road in 1 hr.) lies Zimmerwald (2815'; Hot.-Pens. Beau- 
Sejour), charmingly situated, whence the Bulschelegg (3470'; inn), with an 
extensive view, may be ascended in H/4 hr. — During a longer stay ex- 
cursions may be undertaken to the Frieswilhubel (2385' ; 4 hrs.), to the Fatten- 
fluh (3410" ; 2-21/2 hrs. from Kiesen, see p. 169), and to the Belpberg (2936'). 
The ascent of the last from Belp (railway from Bern in */« hr., see below) 
takes l J /4 hr. ; the descent may be made^ to 0/2 hr.) Qerzensee (2110 1 ; 'Hot.- 
Pens. Bar; Kreuz; fine view), and then via the Thalgut ('Restaurant), beauti- 
fully situated on the Aare, to Q/2 hr.) WicMrach station (p. 169). 

To thb Gubnigel-Bad (21 M.) : railway to (1372 M.) Thurnen 
(opened for traffic in 1901) in 3/ 4 hr. (fare 2 fr. or 1 fr. 35 c.) ; 
diligence thence to (772 M.) Ournigel twice daily in 3 hrs. (descent, 
I72 nr -; f are 6 fr., coupe" 7 fr. 50 a). For the present a diligence 
also plies from Bern to Gurnigel by the old road twice daily in 
summer (5 hrs.). Carriage- and-pair from Thurnen or Bern (ordered 
from the baths by letter or telegram), 40 fr. and fee of 5 fr. — The 
new railway through the Giirbe-Thal diverges to the left from the 
Lausanne line and describes a wide curve towards the S.E. 3% M. 
Bern - Weissenbuhl ; 4^2 M. Gross - Wdbern (to the Gurten , see 
above); 6V4M. Kehrsatz (to Zimmerwald, see above). Near (8 M.) 
Belp the railway approaches the Gtirbe (to the Belpberg, see above) 
and then skirts its left bank via, (10y 2 M.) Toffen and (12 M.) 
Kaufdorf to (1372 M.) Thurnen, the station for Gurnigel. [Beyond 
Thurnen the railway goes on to (1572 M.) Burgistein-Wattenwil, 
whence it is to be continued to Thun in 1902.] — The road (car- 
riages, see above) leads to the right via Muhlethumen to (272 M.) 
Riggisberg (2500'; Sonne), and thence to the left to (272 M.) Ruti 
(2710' ; inn), in a wood-girt valley, and (72 M.) Diirrbach (2735'; 
inn), a beautifully situated village, beyond which we ascend steeply 
by the Laasweid and through the Gurnigelwald to the (2 M.) 
^Gurnigel-Bad (3800'), a favourite health-resort, with a spring 
impregnated with lime and sulphur , situated on a broad plateau 
(550 beds, R. 272 - 9| board 6-8 fr.; rooms should be engaged in ad- 
vance in July and August). 



THUN. Ill Route 43. 169 

Extensive wood-walks in the environs : to (1/2 hr.) Seftigtchwend (3515 7 ; 
inn) ; to the (40 min.) "Bellevue Pavilion (3620'; restaurant), with view of the 
Alps irom the Filatus and Titlis to the Stockhorn ; past the Lashofe to the 
(»A hr.) Langnei-Bad (2900 , );ito the (1 hr.) Obere Gurnigel (8085'), an ad- 
mirable point of view; to the (l l /s hr.) Seelibiihl (5750'), etc. — Over the 
Seelibiihl- Orat to (3 hrs.) Bad Schwefelberg or (3'/2 hrs.) Bad Ottenleue, see 
p. 223 ; over the Qantriich to Bad Weitienburg (5-6 hrs.), see p. 222. 

43. From Bern to Than. 

191/2 M. Railway (Centralbahn) in 40-65 min. (3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 
70 c). View to the right as far as Miinsingen; thence to TJttigen on the 
left. — Throngh-trains from Bern to Interlaken ( Thunersee Railway, p. 172). 

Bern, see p. 160. On the Wiler-Feld (p. 20) the train turns to 
the right. View of the Alps to the S. ; lunatic asylum of Waldau 
on the left. 3 M. Ostermundigen. — 5 M. Oumligen (H6t. Mattenhof, 
well spoken of), junction for Lucerne (p. 157); 2y 4 M. to the E. 
is the *Pension Dentenberg (2325'); the Oiebel (V4 hr. from the 
station) commands a fine view. — 8 M. Rubigen ; 10 M. Miinsingen 
(Lowe, R. 1V2"3, pens, from 4 fr.). On the right rise the Stockhorn 
and Niesen, on the left the Monch, Jungfrau, Bliimlisalp, and 
(farther on) Eiger. 12V2 M. Wichtrach. — From (14i/ 2 M.) Kiesen 
a road ascends by Diesbach (p. 20) in 2^2 hrs., and a footpath vift 
Brenzikofen in 2 hrs., to the Falkenfluh (3410' ; *H6tel- Pension, 
pens. 4-5 fr.) , a health-resort with a fine view. Near (15^2 M 
TJttigen we cross the Aare. 

19^2 M. Thou. — Railway Stations. Thun, the chief station, on the 
N.W. side of the town (Restaurant, D. IV2-2V2 fr.); Scherzligen (Thuner 
See), to the S. (for Interlaken), where passengers alight for the steamer. — 
The Steamer (p. 173) calls at Thun-Stadt, near the Hotel Freienhof, at 
Thun- Hofstettem, above the large hotels, and at Scherzligen, close to the 
railway-station (p. 172). In summer most of the steamers start from Hof- 
stetten, bat none stop there in winter. 

Hotels. Thuneehof, a large first-class house, with a garden on the Aare, 
E. 4-8, B. I72, dej'. 3, D. 5, pens. 10-16, omn. 1 fr. ; *Bellevde (owned by 
the same company), with grounds, R. from 3V2, B. IV2, dej. 3, D. 472, 
pens. 7-15 fr., concert thrice daily; "Pension Itten, R. 2-4, B. l ] /4, dej. 2, 
D. 8, pens. 61/2-7 fr. ; "Hot.-Pens. Baumgarten & Victoria, with grounds, 
R. 21/2-5, B. li/ 2 , dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 7-10 fr. — 'Feeienhof (PI. c), in the 
town, with cafe-restaurant and garden on the Aare, R. 2-4, B. I 1 /*, D. 3, 
S. 2, pens. 6-9 fr. ; "Falken (PI. a), near the station, with terrace on the 
Aare, R. 2-3V2, B. I1/4, D. 3, S. 2, pens. 6-8 fr. 5 *Weisses Kkedz (PI. d!), 
next the post-office, D. 3 fr. ; 'Keone, Rathhaus-Piatz (PI. R P.), R. lVx-2i/z, 
B. 1, D. 21/2, S. 2, pens. 41/2-6 fr. -, Schweizerhof (PI. 6), R. 2-3, B. 1, D. 21/2, 
pens. 6-7 fr. ; Bear, Hot. Emmenthal, Gasthof zu Schmieden, all unpre- 
tending. — Pens. Alpenblick, well spoken of, 5-6 fr. ; Pens. Muhergut, 
Frutig-Str. 68, 4 fr. ; Pens. Hunibaoh, 1 M. from Thun on the Oberhofen 
road, 4 fr. 

Bees: Munich beer at the Falkenhalle. Native beer at the Freienhof (see 
above) 5 Sleinbock ; Aktienbrauerei Thun ; Schmieden ; Cafi Bellevue, Schwabis- 
Promenade; Cafi Bellerive, Hofstetten; also in several beer-gardens. 

Cdrsaal with garden, near the two first-named hotels ; concerts daily 
4-5 p.m. (adm. free) and 8.30-10-30 p.m. (adm. 50c). Tax, each pers. 
per day 25 c. 

Baths in the very rapid and cold Aare, to the N. of the town, 50 c. 
Warm Baths at the Bdllitz Baths. — Boat on the lake, 3 fr. per hour, 2 hrs . 



1 70 III. Route 43. THUN. Bernese 

5 fr., 3hrs. 7, half-a-day 8, whole day 10 fr. ; but better terms may sometimes 
be made. — Money Changers. Cantonal Bank, Allmend-Briicke 23, near 
the rail, station ; Spar- und -Leihkatse Thun, Unter-Ballitz 8. 

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. P), in the Ballitz. 

Cab to or from the station 1 fr. Carriage with one horse for the first hour 
5, with two horses 10 fr., each addit. hour 3 and 6 fr. To Wimmis 8 or 15, 
to Eandersteg 22 or 40, to Weissenburg 13 or 24, to Zweisimmen 28 or 
50, Gessenay 35 or 60, Gsteig 40 or 70, Chateau-d'Oex 40 or 70, Aigle 80 or 
150, Gurnigel 25 or 45 fr. 

The Art Pottery of Thun has some reputation. One of the chief 
potteries is that of Wanzenried at Schwabil, 1 M. to the N.W. (depot in 
Thun-Hofstetten) ; others are at Heimberg (p. 171). — Photographs at Moegle't, 
next door to the Thunerhof. 

English Chapel in the grounds of the Bellevue. — Roman Catholic 
Service in the new church near the Thunerhof. 

Thun (1844'; pop. 6020), a quaint old town, charmingly situated 
on the rapid green Aare, % M. below its efflux from the lake, is a 
fitting portal to the beautiful Oberland. All the open spaces in the 
town command splendid views to the S.E. of the snowy peaks of the 
Blumlisalp and the Doldenhorn (see the Niesen Panorama at p. 171, 
lower range, to the left), with the Niesen in the foreground and the 
Stockhorn chain to the left of it. Thun is the headquarters of the 
Swiss artillery, with barracks and training grounds. On the other 
side of the Aare, near the barracks, is the Federal station for 
cavalry remounts (ca. 600 horses). 

Above the town rises the bold square tower of the old Castle of 
Zahringen-Kyburg (1935'; PI. S), with its corner-turrets, erected 
in 1182. Within the castle is the Amts-Schloss, or residence of the 
Bernese bailiffs, erected in 1429. It may be reached from the N. gate 
(}/i M. from the station, -via the bridges), by a covered flight of steps 
from the market-place (PI. K P), and on the S.E. by another flight 
of steps, or by an easy path from the Hotel Baumgarten. The tower 
contains a small historical museum (50 c). A walk round the castle 
reveals beautiful views. Still more picturesque are the views from 
the Church (PI. K; 1738), to the S.E. of the castle, and from the 
pavilion in the corner of the churchyard. 

Walks. On the right bank of the Aare, about 110 yds. above the Thun- 
Hofstetten landing-place (p. 169), is a finger-post (left) indicating a flight 
of steps, which ascends, at first between houses, to the ('/« hr.) "Pavilion 
St. Jacques (Jakobshiibeli; 2100'), commanding the lake, the Alps from the 
Finsteraarhorn to the Doldenhorn, Thun, and the valley of the Aare. [Guests 
of the H6tel Bellevue can reach this point by a prettier route through 
the hotel-grounds.] A way-post here shows the way to (10 min.) the Pavilion 
(fine view of Thun); to the ('/4 hr.) Rabenfluh ; to the (25 min.) Kohleren 
Waterfalls; and to (1 hr.) the Haltenegg (see p. 171). Close to the Pavilion 
St. Jacques is the Pention-Curhaut Obere Wart (pens. 5 fr.). — Another 
walk is by the road on the right (N.) bank of the Aare and of the lake 
across the Bachimatt, with its pretty grounds and Alpine view, to the (20 
min.) Chartreuse. Here (or by a shorter path 8 min. farther back) we 
turn to the left , passing the Bachihblzli, cross (10 min.) the Biinibach, 
and follow a path through the picturesque Kohleren Ravine, where the 
brook forms several small falls. This path ascends to the Griisisberg wood 
(see below) and the Goldiwil road (Va hr. ; see below). 

The Ooldiwil Road, which diverges to the right from the Steffisburg 
road, at the 'SiibeW, a few hundred yards to the N. of the town (shorter 




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Oberland. WIMMIS. III. Route 44. 171 

path to the right at the Hot.-Pens. Baumgarten, with numerous guide- 
posts), leads along the slope of the Griisisberg, the fine woods of which 
are intersected by numerous walks. Fine view of the town, the valley of 
the Aare, and the Stockhorn chain from the Rappenfluh or Rabenfluh (2910' 5 
1 hr.). Hence we may return to the town, in a curve towards the N., 
via, the Brandlisberg (2397' 5 20 min.), another view-point, and the Pavilion 
St. Jacques O/2 hr.), or we may go to the S. direct to the Pavilion 
(Vs hr.). After about 27< M. the Goldiwil road joins a road connecting it 
with the Bachimatt road on the right bank of the Aare, and divides. The 
left branch leads to (IV2 M.) Goldiwil (3155'; Pens. Blumlisalp, R. 1-2 fr., 
D. 1 fr. 80 c, S. 1 fr. 30 c, pens. 4-5 fr. ; Restaurant Alpenruh), the right 
to (2y« M.) Heiligenschwendi (3324 1 ), »/ 4 M. to the S. of which is the "Baltenegg 
(3283 1 ), affording a magnificent view of the lake and the Alps. 

Schloss Schadau, x /t M. to the S. of Scherzligen, see p. 173 (park open on 
Sun.). — Schloss Biinegg, IV2 M. to the S. of Thun-Hofstetten, see p. 173 (visit- 
ors admitted to the grounds and hothouses on application to the gardener). 

longer Excursions. To the N. ofThun (I1/2 M.; carr. with one horse 
3 fr.) is the considerable village of Steffisburg (1930' ; Landhaus Inn), on 
the Zulg (rail, station, see p. 20), whence we may ascend in V2 nr - to the 
small and well-sheltered * Schnittweper-Bad (2625'; pens. 4-5'/2 fr.), with 
its mineral spring and pretty walks. — From Steffisburg a charming walk 
leads to the N.W. over the Hartlisberg (2295'; fine view) to (V2 hr.) Beim- 
berg, chief seat of the majolica manufacture (station, see p. 20); return by 
the Bern road to (1 hr.) Thun. — Thierachern (1867'; Lowe), with fine 
view, 3 M. to the W. ; 3 M. farther to the W., Bad Blumenstein (2210'; 
pens, from 5 fr.), and the Fallback; thence footpath, passing the Pavilion 
Bellevue, to (272 hrs.) the Gurnigel-Bad (p. 168). — Baths of Schwefelberg 
&I2 hrs. to the W. of Blumenstein, beyond the Gantrisch Pass), see p. 223. 
— Burgistein (2690'), a village and castle with fine view, 8 M. to the N.W. 
of Thun. — Amsoldingen (Roman tombstones) , 3'/2 H. to the S.W. The 
undulating district between the Stocken-Thal and Thun abounds in beau- 
tiful walks and mountain-views. — The Stockhorn (7195'; from Blumen- 
stein or Amsoldingen 4'/2 hrs.), see p. 222. 

Electric railway from Thun to Burgdorf, see p. 20. 



44. The Niesen. 

Two Bkidlb Paths : on the N. side from Wimmis (see below ; 5-572 hrs.), 
on the E. from the Beustrich-Bad (p. 172; 4'/r5 hrs.). The former has shade 
in the morning, the latter in the afternoon. Hohse to the top and back 15 fr., 
or, if the start is later than 10 a.m., 20 fr. ; from Wimmis to Heustrich 
over the Niesen (or vice versa), 22 and 28 fr. — Guide (unnecessary) 10 fr. 
Chair-porters 12 fr. each (four porters required for one chair). 

Spiez (p. 174) is the station both for Wimmis (2i/ 2 M. ; railway 
in 11 min., 28 or 20 c.) and for the Heustrich-Bad (3 M. ; railway 
to Aeschi-Heustrich in 10 min., 60, 45 c). — Railway to Wimmis, 
see p. 221 . — The Kander-Thal road (comp. p. 212) crosses the 
railway near Spiezmoos , at its junction with the Thun road, and 
leads to the left to (l'/4 M.) Spiezwiler (Bar). It then divides, 
the left branch leading to Heustrich-Bad (see p. 172), while the 
right branch descends in a wide curve (or we may take a direct 
path through wood to the left) to the Kander-Brucke. Fine view of 
the Blumlisalp. Then a slight ascent to (2 M.) ■ — 

Wimmis (2075'; pop. 1420; *Lbwe, R. 2-4, B. 11/4, D- 3, S.2, 
pens, from 5 fr. ; Hot. Niesen, unpretending), a pretty village at 
the E. base of the Burgfluh (3248'), overlooked by a castle, now 



172 III. Routt U. NIESEN. Bernese 

a school and public offices. The church is mentioned in ancient 
documents as early as 533. 

Ascent op the Niesen fhom Wimmis. The route (at first a narrow 
cart-track) ascends on the S. side of the Burgfluh. After 35 min. it crosses 
the Staldenbach; 3 min. later, by a gate, is a finger-post indicating the 
path to the left ('Niesen 3 3 /4 hrs.'), which ascends in zigzags through 
pastures and wood, passing the chalet on the Bergli. By the (2 hrs.) 
chalets of Untentalden (4940') the path crosses to the right bank of the 
Staldenbach, and winds up the slopes of the Niesen, past the chalets of 
Oberstalden (5833'). The prospect first reveals itself beyond the (l 1 /* hr.) 
Staldenegg (6345'), a sharp ridge connecting the Bcttfluh or Fromberghorn 
(7864') with the Niesen. Thence to the top l-l 1 /* nr - more. 

The Railway to Aeschi-Hetjstkich (see p. 211) diverges to 
the right from the line to Interlaken, threads the Hondrich Tunnel 
(1 M. long) , and then runs high up on the N. side of the Kander- 
Thal, with a view of the Bliimlisalp to the S., to (3 M.) Aeschi- 
Heustrich (2355'; Restaurant). A footpath leads hence to the right 
to (!/ 2 hr.) Aeschi (p. 174), while a road descends to the left, crosses 
the Kander (2230'), and reaches the much-frequented — 

*Heustrich-Bad (2295'; R. 2-6, B. li/ 2 , D. 3V 2 , S. 2»/ 2 , pens. 
5-7 fr. ; S.B.G.H.), charmingly situated at the foot of the Niesen, 
with an alkaline-saline sulphur-spring and a beautiful view of the 
Bliimlisalp. 

A bridle-path (poor at places) ascends the grassy slopes behind the 
baths in zigzags. When it divides, the steeper branch must be selected. 
We first reach (40 min.) an old lime-tree, with a bench. Then through 
wood (IV4 hr.) and over pastures, past the chalets of Schlechtenaaldegg and 
the Hegern-Alp (6308"), and in numerous windings to the (2 1 /x-3 hrs.) 
summit. Milk at the two upper chalets. 

The *Niesen (7763'; Hot. Niesenkulm, 5 min. below the top, 
R. 3-4 fr., B. 1 fr. 80 c. ; telephone), the conspicuous N. outpost of 
a mountain-chain extending S. to the Wildstrubel, and like Pilatus 
regarded as an infallible barometer, rises in the form of a pyramid. 
The rocks at the base are clay-slate, those of the upper part sandstone- 
conglomerate. The view vies with that from the Faulhorn (comp. 
the Panorama, p. 171). The beautiful snow-clad Bliimlisalp is seen 
to great advantage. Best light towards sunset or before 10 a.m. 

45. From Than to Interlaken. Lake of Than. 

a. Thunersee Railway. 

171/2 M. Railway in 52-63 min. (fares 4 fr. 10, 2 fr. 75, 1 fr. 95 c); from 
Bern to Interlaken in Vfr-2i/ t hrs. (fares 7 fr. 45, 5 fr. 10, 8 fr. 65 c). 
— Through railway tickets may be also used for the steamboat (see p. 173), 
but allow no break in the journey. For a prolonged stay on the lakes 
of Thun and Brienz the family subscription or mileage tickets for rail 
and steamboat are advantageous and effect a saving of about 50 per cent; 
they may be had (from 3 fr. upwards) at all the railway and steamboat 
stations. — For cyclists the roads on both the N. and S. sides of the 
lake from Thun to Interlaken may be recommended. 

Thun, see p. 169. — Y2 M. Scherzligen (see p. 169), at the efflux 
of the Aare, close to the steamboat-pier (see p. 173). To the right, 
a view of the Stockhorn chain ; to the left, the Bernese Alps from 




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Oberland. LAKE OF THUN. HI. Route 45. 173 

the Wetterhorn to the Bliimlisalp. 2i/ 2 M. Qwatt (Schafle; Post). 
Beyond Strattligen, with its old tower, we cross the gorge of the 
Kander (p. 212) by a handsome bridge, 98' high. 

6 M. Spiez (2070'). The station is high above the village (p. 174) ; 
splendid view of the Lake of Thun and the mountains on its N. 
bank (Ralligstocke, Sigriswiler Rothhorn, etc.) ; in the foreground, 
Spiez with its chateau, and to the S.E. and S.,the Bernese Alps. — 
Simmen-Thal Railway, see p. 221. To Frutigen, see p. 212. 

Beyond Spiez the line descends past Faulensee (p. 175) ; it then 
skirts the precipitous S. bank, passing through three tunnels near 
Krattigen. 12 M. Leissigen (Steinbock ; Weisses Kreuz), pleasantly 
situated at the foot of the Morgenberghom (p. 181 ; road to Aeschi, 
see p. 175). Beatenberg (p. 176) is visible high above the N. bank. 
— 14^2 M. Darligen (Pens. Seller , Scharz, Schwalbenheim ; H6t.- 
Pens. Bellevue, well spoken of, pens. 4-6 fr.). To the left, near the 
influx of the Aare, is the ruin of Weissenau. The train skirts the 
Aare Channel and reaches the station of (17!/ 2 M.) Interlaken (p. 177). 

b. Steamboat Journey. 

Steamboat (restaurant on board, D. 2 1 /* fr.), 6-7 times daily in 2 hrs. 
fare 2 fr. 75 c). — General season tickets for the steamboats on the lakes 
of Thun andBrienz for 8 days 1st class 8, 2nd cl. 5 fr., 15 days 10 and 7, 
30 days 15 and 10 fr. (less for families). — Railway passengers wishing 
to go on by steamboat change at Scherzligen (p. 172). 

i*$The steamer (comp. p. 169) starts in summer from Hofstetten, 
ascends the Aare, and stops at rail. stat. Scherzligen (p. 172). To 
the left, among trees, is the Chartreuse (p. 170); to the right, on a 
peninsula at the efflux of the Aare, Schloss Schadau, a turreted 
building in the English Gothic style, with a large park (p. 171). 

The Lake of Thun (1840'), which the steamer now enters, is 
11 M. long and nearly 2 M. wide ; its greatest depth is 702'. The 
*View from the steamer is magnificent. The Stockhorn (7195'), 
with its conical summit, and the pyramidal Niesen (7763') rise 
on the right and left of the entrance to the valleys of the Kander 
and Simme (p. 221). To the left of the Niesen are the glittering 
snow-fields of the Bliimlisalp; on the right, the Friindenhorn, 
Doldenhorn , Balmhorn , Altels , and Rinderhorn gradually become 
visible (from left to right). In the direction of Interlaken appear 
successively (from right to left) the Mittaghorn, Jungfrau, Monch, 
Eiger in the foreground, and farther off the Schreckhorn and 
Wetterhorn. 

The steamer skirts the N.E. bank, with its villas and gardens, 
and woods above them, and passes the pretty village of Hilterfing en. 
To the left is the chateau of Hiinegg, in the French Renaissance 
style. The boat touches at Oberhofen (*Pens. Moy, R. 2-2i/ 2 , B. 1, 
D.21/2, S.2, pens. 6-61/21*.; *H6t.-Pens. Victoria, R. 17 2 -2, B. li/ 4 , 
D. 3, S. 2i/ s , pens. 6-7 fr. ; "Pens. Oberhofen; Pens. $ Restaurant 
Zimmermann), which has a picturesque chateau of Count Harrach, 



174 III.R.d5.—Map,p.l7->. SPIEZ. Bernese 

and at Gunten (*H6t.-Pens. Hirsch, -with garden, R. 172-3, B. 1, 
D. 272. s - 172. P ens - 5-6 ft. ; *Pens. du Lac, 5 fr.; Pens. Amez- 
Droz, well spoken of, all on the lake and recommended for a stay; 
*Pens. Schonberg, on the hill, pens. 4-6 fr.). 

In the vicinity (1 M. from the lake) the water of the Guntenhach has 
formed a curious gorge with a waterfall (accessible in dry weather only). 
— A beautiful view of the lake, the district between Than and Bern, 
and the higher Alps, is obtained from the so-called 'Nussbavm (2625'), on 
the Erizbilhl, between Oberhofen and Gunten (about 3 /t hr. from each 
place). The route from Gunten leads through the interesting ravine of 
the Oertlibach, crossing the road to Aeschlen. 

A road (diligence in summer twice daily in 1 hr. ; one-horse carriage 
from Gunten 6, from Thun 10, two-horse 18 fr.) ascends from Gunten to 
(2i/ 2 M.) Sigris-wil (2620'; "Bear, R. 1-3, B. I1/2, D. 2i/ 2 , pens. 41/2-6 fr.), a 
prettily situated village. The Blume (4577'; fine view) is ascended hence in 
2 hrs. via, Schwanden. An interesting path (4 hrs., with guide) leads via 
Zelg and Wiler-AUmend to the (2'/2hrs.) Unter-Bergli Alp (5510'; fine views) 
on the Sigritwil-Grat, and thence via P/« hr.) Ober-Bergli (5975') to the 
( 3 /4 hr.) top of the * Sigrismler Rothhorn (6735'; last ascent very steep, for 
steady heads only). On the abrupt slope of the Sigriswil-Grat towards the 
Justis-Thal (p. 175) is the "Schafloeh (5840 1 ), a large ice-cavern, reached from 
Ober-Bergli by a giddy path in 3 /i hr. (guide, ice-axe, and torches necessary). 

The steamer now crosses the lake, at its broadest part, to — 
Spiez. — Hotels. "Spiezeb Hof, by the pier, with garden and Jake- 
baths, R. 8-6, B. 1V«, d(5j. 3, D. 4, pens. 6-12, omn. 1 fr. ; 'Scbloss-Hotel 
Schonegg, 1/2 M. from the lake, near the rail, station, with garden and 
fine view, R. 3-6, B. IV2, D- 3>/2, S. 3, pens. 7-12 fr. ; 'Pens. Ebica, well 
situated, R. 2 l /2-3, B. H/4, D. 3, S. 2, pens. 5-7 fr.; Pens. Itten, 3 min. to 
the W. of the station, pens. 5 6 fr. ; Pens. Villa Schlossli, near the station, 
5 fr.; Railway Hotel & Restaokant, with fine view of Spiez and the lake, 
R. 3-31/2 fr., B. iy 4 , D. 3 fr. — Post & Telegraph Office, at the railway 
station (electric tramway from the lake to the station in construction, to 
be opened in 1902). — Carriage from the rail, station or pier to Wimmis 4, 
with two horses 7 fr. ; to Heustrich-Bad 5 or 10 fr. ; to Faulensee-Bad 5 or 
10 fr. ; to Aeschi 6 or 12 fr. ; to Frutigen 10 or 18 fr. ; to Blausee 12 or 22 fr. ; 
to Kandersteg 18 or 32 fr. ; to Interlaken 12 or 20 fr. — English Church 
Service in summer. — Roman Catholic Chapel, 1/4 M. from the station. 

The village of Spiez, the starting-point for an ascent of the 
Niesen (p. 171) and for excursions to the Kander and Simme val- 
leys (pp. 212, 221), is attractively situated. The picturesque old 
chateau, formerly that of the Erlach family, has been restored and 
is surrounded with grounds. The road ascends among the houses and 
orchards of the village and divides into three branches at (72 M.) 
Pension Itten. That in a straight direction leads to the (74 M.) 
Railway Station (p. 173 ; 230' above the lake ; 3/ 4 M. from the pier), 
that to the left to Faulensee (see p. 175) , and that to the right to 
Wimmis and the Kander-Thal (pp. 171, 212). 

From Spiez to Aeschi, 21/4 M. (carr., see above). The road diverges 
to the left from the Kander-Thal road, about s/4 M. to the S. of Spiez- 
wiler (p. 171). Walkers may follow the Faulensee road from the rail, 
station and then (20 min.) ascend the path leading first to the right and then 
to the left (finger-post; 1/2 hr.). The village of Aeschi (2818'; 'E6t.-Peni. 
Bar, R. from 2, B. l'A, D. 31/2, S. 2i/ 2 , pens. 5-9 fr. ; *H6t.-Pens. Blilmlitalp, 
R. 2-3 l /2, B. 1V4, D. 3, S. 2, pens. 5-7 fr. ; "M6t.-Pem. Niesen, pens. 5-7 fr.; 
"Pens. Alpenrose, 4-6 fr. ; Pens. IAnde, with fine view, unpretending, 4-472 fr.; 
Pern. Kopp, 1 M. from the village, moderate) lies on the height between the 



Oberland. MERLIGEN. III. B45. — Maps, pp. 172,182. 175 

Lake of Thun and the Kander-Thal, with a charming view of the lake, and 
i9 visited as a health-resort. A pleasant road also leads in 2 hrs. from Leissigen 
(p. 173) to Aeschi via Krattigen (Stern). From Aeschi to the Beustrich-Bad 
(p. 172), footpath in 35 min. ; to Mulenen, road in >/2 hr. (The Fauletuee-Bad, 
see below, is 1 M. to the S.E.) — Fbom Aeschi to Saxeten, a pleasant 
route (6V2 hrs.). Road hy Aeschi-Bied (3280'-, Pens. & Restaurant Schon- 
biihl, pens. 4-6 fr.) to the (6 M.) Untere Suldalp (3418') in the Suldthal; 
then a bridle-path, past the fine Pochten Fall, to the (l>/4 hr.) Schlieren-Alp 
(4675') ; ascent to the left, via the Renggli-Alp, to the (l'/s hr.) Renggli or 
Tanzbbdeli Pass (6168'), between the Morgenberghorn and the Schwalmern ; 
then descent by the Iimerberg-Alp to (l 1 /* ^ r Saxeten (p. 180). The Morgen- 
berghorn (7385') may be ascended from the Renggli Pass in 1 hr. (guide 
necessary for the inexperienced; comp. p. 181). The Schwalmern (8135'), 
ascended from the Renggli Pass in 3 hrs. with guide (toilsome), see p. 181. 

From Spiez two black peaks aie visible for a short time to the 
E., above the S. bank of Lake Brienz ; that to the right is the Faul- 
hom, that to the left (the broader) the Schwarzhorn. The next 
station on the 8. bank is Faulensee, above which (3 M. from Spiez, 
one-horse carr. 5 fr.) is the Faulensee-Bad (2265' ; *H6tel Victoria, 
pens. 7-12 fr. ; Eng. Ch. Serv. in summer), with a mineral spring, 
pleasant grounds, and beautiful view. 

On the N. bank we observe the abrupt Sigriswil-Orat, with the 
bold Ralligstoeke (5452Q, the Sigriswiler Rothhorn (6735'), and the 
Niederhorn (6445'). On the lake is Schloss Ralligen. Beyond stat. 
Merligen (*H6t. Beatus, with garden on the lake, pens. 5-6 fr.; 
Pens, du Lac), at the mouth of the Justis-Thal, the steamer touches 
at the O/4 hr.) Beaten bucht (restaurant), the station for St. Beatenberg 
(p.176). — The Nase, a rocky headland, here juts into the lake. High 
up on the steep bank runs the bold road (p. 176), hewn in the rock and 
passing through two tunnels. On the lake is the chateau of Lerau, 
near the Beatenbach, which issues from the Beatushbhle, 3 / 4 M. above 
the road, making a noise like thunder in spring and after heavy 
rain. Farther on the road threads three more tunnels, crosses the 
ravine of the Sundgraben (p. 176), in which lie the houses of Sund- 
lauenen, and leads past the Kubli-Bad or St. Beatus-Bad, the Neu- 
haus, and the Pension Simpkin (p. 177) to Unterseen. 

The steamer, which sometimes calls at Leissigen (p. 173) and 
Darligen (p. 173), both on the S. bank, next enters the Aare Channel 
(l 3 / 4 M. long ; to the left, the ruin of Weissenau, p. 173) and stops 
at the landing-place Interlaken-Thunersee, near the "W. or principal 
station of Interlaken (p. 177). 



From Beatbnbucht to St. Beatenberg, Cable Tramway in 
16 min. (ascent 2y 2 fr., descent 1 fr., return-fare 3, on Sun. 2fr.). 
The line is 1 M. long and has an average gradient of 1 : 3. The 
station at the top has a restaurant with rooms. 

Fbom Intbbxaxbn to St. Bbatbnbbbg, by road, 7 M. The 
direct road diverges to the left from the Habkern road (p. 181), about 
1 M. from Unterseen, crosses the Lombach, and winds upwards 
through the wood (one-horse carr. 13, two-horse 24, to the Curhaus 



176 III.R.45.—Maps,pp.l70,182. BEATENBERG. 

14 or 26 fr.). Walkers, -with the aid of short-cuts, take 1 hr. from 
the Lomhach bridge to a roadside inn, and 3 /4hr. thence to the H6tel 
des Alpes; as, however, there is little shade, walking is not recom- 
mended in warm weather. — The road from Interlaken to Beaten- 
hucht (5 M.), resembling the Axenstrasse (p. 106), is also attractive 
for either walking or driving. It leads from Neuhaus along the 
steep and wooded bank of the lake, finally high above it (two tun- 
nels), and affords splendid views of the lake and the Bernese Alps 
(carr. from Interlaken toMerligen and back 9, with two horses 16 fr.). 

St. Beatenberg. — Hotels (enumerated from W. to E.). — 'Hotel 
St. Beatenbebg and Cobhaos Muller, at the W. end of the village, near 
a wood, with 120 beds, R. 2>/2-6, B. H/a, dej. 21/2-8, D. 4-5, pens. 8-12 fr. 
(S.B.G.H.) ; *H6t.-Pens. Beatus, R. 1«/s, D. 2, S. I1/2, pens. 4-5 fr.; 'Pension 
Beatrice, R. lV2-2'/ 2 , B. 1, D. 2y s , S. I1/2, pens. 5-71/2 fr.; Pens. Wall - 
heim; Pens. Rosenad, 6-61/2 fr. ; *H6t. Bldmlisalp, R. from 2V2, B. 1, 
D. 3, pens. 6-8 fr.; *H6t.-Pens. Beau-Sbjobr-Waldeand, R. 4 1 /i-5 1 /z, 
B. 11/2, dej. 3, D. 5, pens. 7-10 fr. ; Hot. -Pens. Schonegg, pens. 5-8 fr. ; 
•Grand Hotel Victoria, I1/4 M. from the Curhaus, first-class, R. 3-15, 
dej. 31/2, D. 5, pens. 8-16 fr.; "Hot. -Pens. Post, R. 3-5, B. I1/2, D. 4, pens. 
7-12, omn. 1 fr.; Hot.-Pens. Jungfraublick, R. 2-3, B. 1, D. 3, S. 2i/ 2 , 
pens. 5-6 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. Schweizerhaus, R. from 2, B. H/4, D. 2, pens. 
5-7 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. Bellevoe, 7-10 fr. ; *H6t.-Pens. Silberhorn, V/t II. 
from the Carhaus, pens. 6-8 fr. On the other side of the Sundgraben: 
Hot.-Pens. Alpenrose, R. 31/2-5, B. I1/2, dej. 3, D. 5, pens. 6-10 fr.; Hotet 
National, pens, from 5 fr. ; *H6t.-Pens. des Alpes & Pens. Jcngfbac, 
3 M. from the Carhaus, with garden and splendid view, R. 2-4, B. I1/2, 
D. 3-3/2, S. 2'/2, pens. 6-8 fr.; *Pens. Waldegg, 5 min. to the left of the road, 
in a quiet situation (pens. 4-5 fr.). — Private Lodgings. — English Church. 

The village of St. Beatenberg (3775'), a favourite health-resort, 
stretches along the flank of the Beatenberg for 2'^ M., overhung 
by the rocky ridge of the Guggisgrat and occupying both sides of the 
Sundgraben, the deep bed of a mountain-torrent. Admirable view 
of the Alps, from the Schreckhorn to the Niesen, including the Eiger, 
Monch, Jungfrau, Blumlisalp, Doldenhorn, and Wildstrubel. Pleas- 
ant paths, with benches, have been laid out above and below the 
road. Near the centre of the town is the new Roman Catholic Church. 

At Pens. Edelweiss is a finger-post indicating the way to the Wald- 
brand (25 min. ; green marks), the Vortass, and the Niederhorn; one at 
the Hot.-Pens. Blumlisalp indicates the Parallel Promenade (blue marks); 
another between the church and the Victoria shows the way to the (*/< M.) 
Beatushohle (p. 175; red marks); a fourth, at the Bellevue, points upwards 
towards the (1/2 hr.) Kdnzli (white and blue marks). — The finest point 
of view is the "Amisbiihl (4383'; Restaurant), 25 min. to the E. of the 
Hotel Alpenrose. 

The ascent of the three peaks of the Qiiggitgrat is very interesting: 
the *Nielerhorn (6445'), from the Curhaus in 2'/s hrs. by a path marked 
white and yellow (guide 6 fr., not indispensable); the 'Burgfeldstand 
(6780'), from the Hotel Bellevue (path marked blue and white), by the 
Kdnzli (see above) in 3 1 /* hrs. (guide 6 fr., not indispensable) ; the 'Gflmmen- 
alphorn (6770'), via the Amisbuhl (see above), Waldegg- Allmend, Leimern, 
and Gemmen-Alp in 3 1 /* brs., not difficult (path marked red and white; guide, 
8fr., unnecessary; horse 16 fr.). Superb view, ranging from Pilatus to the 
Stockhorn chain and the Diablerets ; at our feet lies the Justis-Thal (p. 175), 
beyond it are the Aare valley, Bern, and the Jura Mts. The Lake of Thun 
is not visible. — By following tbe arSte, all three peaks may be combined, 
descent from the Gemmenalphorn to (2 hrs.) Babkern, see p. 182. 



177 



46. Interlaken and Environs. 

Railway Stations. Thunersee Railway or Principal Station (p. 173), 
at the W. end of the town ; Bernese Oberland Railway (station Inter- 
laken-Oel, pp. 179, 183), at the E. end, 1 M. from the first-named. They 
are connected by the Bodelibahn (change carriages; H/4 M., in 7 min. ; 
fares 40, 25, 15, return 60, 35, 25 c), on which 12 trains run daily in each 
direction, six going on to Bonigen (p. 204). Hotel-omnibuses and other vehicles 
at both stations. — Steamboat Piers for the Lake of Thun near the Principal 
Station (p. 17o); for the Lake of Brienz by the Hotel du Lac, opposite the 
station Interlaken-Ost (p. 179). 

Hotels and Pensions (omnibus a /t-l fr.). On the Hoheweg, from W. to 
E. : *H3t. Metbopole (PI. 1), R. 4-5, dej. 31/2, D. 5 fr. ; 'Grand Hotel 
Victoria (PI. 2), R. 5-10, B. I1/2, dej. 3 l / s , D. 6, pens. 10-15 fr. (more in 
Aug.); 'Jungfrau (PI. 3), R. 4-8, dej. 3 l /2, D. 5, pens. 9-15 fr. ; •Schweizer- 
hof (PI. 4), R. 3 v /2-8, dej. 3Va, D. 5, pens. 10-16 fr. (good cuisine); "Bel- 
vedere (PI. 5), R. 4-8, B. l'/z, dej. 31/2, D. 4'/2, pens. 9-15 fr. ; 'Hot. des 
Alpes (PI. 6), R. 3-8, dej. 3, D. 4, pens 7-15 fr. ; "Grand Hotel et 
Beaurivage (PI. 9), R. 3-6, dej. 31/2, D. 5, pens. 9-16 fr. ; »H6t. do Nord 
(PI. 7), R. 3-6, D. 4, pens. 7-12 fr. ; Hot. St. George (PI. 22), with beer- 
garden and wine-room, R. 2-5, B. I1/4, D- 3>/2, pens. 6-10 fr. : Hot. Bavaria 
(PI. 23), with beer-garden, R. 2V2-3, B. IV4, D. 2-2'/ 2 , pens. 6-10 fr. ; «H6t.- 
Pens. Interlaken iPl. 8), R. 3-6, B. IV2, D. 4, pens. 8-12 (out of season 
7-9) fr.; Hot.-Pens. Brunig (PI. 13), R. 1V2-7, B. l'/4, D. 3, 8. 2y 2 , pens 7 fr. ; 
Hot. dd Lac (PI. 10), near the E. station, R. 2-3, B. IV4, D. 3, pens, 
from 6 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. Alpenblick (PI. 14), pens. 6-10 fr. 

To the W. of the Hoheweg, in the direction of the railway-station : 
•Hot. Obebland (PI. 12), wilh restaurant, R. 2i/2-3'/2, B. I1/4, D. 3, S. 21/2, 
pens. 8-9'/ 2 fr. ; opposite to it, Post (PI. 26), R. 2, B. 1, D. 2, S. 1V2 fr. ; Cebf, 
pens. 5-6 fr., well spoken of; Cboix Blanche (PI. 11), R. 2-2>/2, B. I1/4, 
D. 3, S. 2 fr. ; Swan, R. IV2-2V2, pens. 5 6 fr. ; Ours, R. 2-3, pens. 5-6 fr. ; 
Hot. Merkur (Hanny), R. l'^-S'/a, D - l'/2-3, S- 2y 2 fr.; -Hot. Bernerhof 
(PI. 28), R. 2-4. D. 3, pens. 6-8 ir. ; "Hot.-Pens. Krebs (PI. 27), R. 2«/2-3, 
B. l>/4, D. 3 fr.; •Hot.-Pens. Simplon (PI. 33), R. 2-5, B. I1/4, dej. 3, D. 3y 2 , 
pens. 7-12 fr.; 'Pens. Erica, with large garden, pens. 5-6 fr. ; "Hot. de la 
Gare & Terminus (PI. 29), R. 21/4-4, dej. 3, D. 4, pens, from 8 fr. ; "Hot. 
Central & Continental (PI. S4), R. 3-6, B. 11/2, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 7-12 fr. ; 
the last seven near the station. — Beyond the station, on the Rugen road: 
"Hot.-Pens. St. Gotthard (PI. 31), R 2-4, B. i'/ 4 , D. 3, S. 2 1 /?, pens. 6-9 fr. ; 
'Eden Hotel (PI. 32), R. 2-4, B. I1/4, D. 3, 8. 2'/2, pens. 6-9 fr.; "Pens. 
Villa Margaeetha, Magenbitter-Str., to the E. of the station, R. 2-3, pens. 
5-8 fr. ; "Pens. Villa Constance, Posi-Str. 1, pens. 10-16 fr. Near the lower 
bridge over the Aare: 'Bellevue (PI. 15), R. 2-3'/2, B. I1/4, D. 3, pens. 
6-8 fr. — Between the lower and middle bridges: Hot.-Pens. Horn (PI. 30), 
with brewery, R. 2V2-31/2, D. 3, S. 21/2, pens. 6-9 fr. 

On the small island of Spielmatten: 'Hot. du Pont (PI. 16), with garden, 
R. 2'/2-5, B. l'/2, D. 3'/2, pens. 7-10 fr. ; Coubonne (Krone), well spoken 
of, pens. 6 fr. — At Unterseen: "Hot. Stadthaus Unterseen (PI. 17), R. 
from 2, B. 1, D. l 1 /2-2 1 /s, pens. 6 fr. Farther to the W., on the Neuhaus 
road: 'Beau-Site (PI. 18), R. 272-5, dej. 2y 2 , D. 3'/2, pens. 6-10 fr.; •Hot.- 
Pens. Eigee, R. 2-3, B. I1/4, dej. 2V 2 . O. 3-3 J /2, pens. 6-9 fr. ; Pens. Alpen- 
edhe, pens. 5-6 fr., on the Beatenberg road; Pens. Simpkin, near the Lake 
of Thun (p. 175) — Furnished apartments in the Villa Alpina, Jungfrau- 
Str., Villa Roseneck. Rosen-Str., and at Schuh's (p. 178). 

To the S. of the Hoheweg, on the road to the Kleine Rugen: Deut- 
scher Hof (PI. 20), R. 2V2-4V2, B. IV2. D. 31/2, S. 2i/ 2 , pens. 7-10 fr. ; 'Hot. 
National (Pens. Wydeb; PI. 19), R. 21/2-4, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 7-10 fr.; 
•Union Hotel & Pens. Keber (PI. 21), R. 2-37 2 , B. I1/4, D. 31/2, S. 2i/ 2 , 
pens. 6-8 fr. ; *Pabk Hotel <ft Villa Silvana (PI. 23, 25), well situated, 
R 2i/ 2 -6, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 7-12 fr. — 'Rogen Hotel Jungfraublick, a first- 
class house, in an elevated position close to the Rugen Park (p. 179), com- 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 19th Edition. 12 



178 III.R.46.— Map,p.l82. INTERLAKEN. Bernese 

manding a splendid view, R. 5-15, B. I1/2, dej. 4, D. 6, omn. l'/2» pens, 
in July and August 12-20, at other times 10-15 fr. — "Hot. -Pens. Sonne 
(l'l. 35), R. IV2-2V2, B. l»/2- I>- 21/2, S. 2, pens. 5-8 fr.; "Hot.-Pens. 
Mattenhof (PI. 24), R. 2-4, B. I1/4, D. 3-31/2, S. 21/2, pens. 6-10 fr., both 
at the foot of the Kleine Rugen; Pens. Villa Alpina, pens. 5-7 fr.; Chalet- 
Pension Rugen-Park & Rugkn-Blick. 

In the Environs of Interlaken good and inexpensive quarters may be 
obtained. At Wilderswil (p. 183), IV2 31. to the S.: "Hot.-Pens. Jengfrau, 
pens. 5-6 fr., 3 min. from the station; *H6t.-Pens. des Alpes, pens, from 
b fr. ; "Hot. -Pens. Alpenrose, pens. 5-7 fr. ; "Bar, pens. 5-6 fr. ; "Pens. 
Victoria, 5 fr. ; '-Pens. Schonbchl, 5-7 fr. ; "Hot. -Pens. Wilderswil, 
5-7 J /2 fr., these two in a fine lofty situation. — At Unspunnen (p. 180) : 'Hot.- 
Pens. Jungfrau, 6-9 fr. — At Gsteigwiler (p. 183), V2 M. from the railway- 
station of Wilderswil-Gsteig : Pens. Schonfels, 5-7 fr. — At Osteig: Steis- 
bock. — On the Brienz road, on this side of the church-hill of Goldswil 
( 3 /< M.), Pens. Schonegg, b'fa fr. — At Goldswil (p. 181) : Chalet et Pension 
Helvetia, 4-5 fr. — At Bonigen (p. 204), on the S. bank of the Lake of 
Brienz, terminus of the Bo'delibahn (p. 177) : "Hot.-Pens. Belle-P„ive, 5-7 fr. ; 
"Hot.- Pens. Bonigen, 5-7 fr. ; "Chalet do Lac, 6 fr. ; "Hot. -Pens, de la 
G-are, R. IV2-2, B. 1, D. 2'/ 2 -3, pens. 5-7 fr. ; Chalet dd Repos. 

Beer. Cursaal, see below; Hutel Oberland (p. 177); Bavaria (p. 177), 
with cafe-restaurant and garden , next to Hot. Beaurivage (concert in the 
evening); H6t. Terminus, see p. 177; H6t. St. George, see p. 177; Berner- 
hof, Krebs , Haenny , by the Thunersee rail, station. — Confectioners: 
Weber, on the Hoheweg, at the entrance to the Cursaal; Schuh. opposite 
the Metropole (also rooms and cafe-restaurant, D. 3-3'/2 fr.); Seilz, near 
the Hotel Oberland. 

Cursaal on the Hoheweg, with cafe"-restaurant, reading, concert, gaming, 
and billiard rooms, garden, etc. ; music in the morning, afternoon, and 
evening; admission 50 c, evening 1 fr., per day 1 fr., per week 5 fr., month 
14 fr., 2 pers. 25, 3 pers. 35 fr. ; for extra entertainments (usually Snn. 
and Thurs.) higher charges. At the back of the Casino is a whey-cure 
establishment (7-8 a.m.). — Music on the Hoheweg, opposite the entrance 
to the Cursaal, daily 10.30-11.30 a.m. 

Baths in the H6tel Mitropole, at B. Gutermann's, etc. — Lake fialhi 
(Lake of Brienz) on the Bonigen promenade. — Sanatorium tt Hydropathic 
(Dr. Heller), Klostergasse, behind the school-house. 

Chemists. Seewer, opposite Hot. Oberland ; Pulver, Postgasse. — Money 
Changers: Volksbank (PI. 26), near the Post Office. 

Cab from the station to Interlaken, Unterseen, or Matten 1 pers. 1 fr., 
each person extra 50 c, to Bonigen, Gsteig, Wilderswil, or Ringgenberg 
2 fr., and 1 fr. ; Heimwehfluh 4fr.; per hour with one horse 4, with two 
horses 8, each additional hour 3 or 5 fr. ; to Lauterbrnnnen and Grindel- 
wald, see pp. 183, 180. 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. P), adjoining the Hotel Oberland. — 
The Oberland Enquiry Office ( Verkehrs-Bureau). on the Hoheweg, adjoining 
the Cursaal, supplies information of every kind gratis. 

Guides (generally to be found in the Hoheweg, opposite the entrance 
to the Cursaal, or at the Barometrical Column, opposite the Hot. Victoria): 
Christian Haesler, Eduard Feuz, Jacob Miiller, Rudolf Wyss, Fritz Michel. 

English Church Service in the old Convent Church. Presbyterian Ser- 
rire (Scottish 1'nited Free Church) in the Sacristy of the Schloss at 11 
and 4. American Services (in summer) at the Hotels Victoria and Me'tropole. 

The low land between the lakes of Thun and Brienz, which are 
2 M. apart, is called the 'BodelV. These lakes were probably once 
united, but gradually separated by the deposits of the LiitscKine, 
flowing into the Lake of Brienz, and the Lombach, falling into the 
Lake of Thun. These accumulations, descending from the S., out 
of the valley of Lauterbrunnen, and from the N., out of the Habkern 



Olerland. INTERLAKEN. Map,p.l82. — III.R.46. 179 

valley, account for the curve which the Aare describes. Beautifully 
situated on this piece of land, 'between the lakes', lies Interlaken 
(1863'; pop. 7170), consisting of the villages of Aarmuhle, Matten, 
and Unterseen, and extending nearly as far as the Lake of Brienz. 
It is a favourite summer-resort, noted for its mild and equable 
climate, and is a good starting-point for excursions in the Oberland. 

The chief resort of visitors is the *H6heweg, an avenue of 
old walnuts and planes, extending from the village of Aarmuhle 
to the upper bridge over the Aare, and flanked by large hotels 
and tempting shops. It commands a beautiful view of the Lauter- 
brunnen-Thal and the Jungfrau (finest by evening-light). To 
the right, near the upper or N.E. end of the Hoheweg, rises the 
old Monastery of Interlaken, founded in 1130, and suppressed in 
1528, surrounded by beautiful walnut-trees. The monastery, with 
the Sehloss added in 1750, is now occupied by the hospital and 
the government-offices. Different parts of its old church arenowused 
for the Anglican, Presbyterian, French Protestant, and Roman 
Catholic services. The prolongation of the Hoheweg leads to rail, 
stat. Interlaken- Ost (p. 177; near the landing-place of the Brienz 
steamer) and to Bonigen (2 M. ; p. 204). The Brienz road, diverging 
to the left at the Hotel Beaurivage (to Ringgenberg 2 M., to Brienz 
10 M.), crosses the Aare (Briickwald, see p. 181). 

At the S.W. end of the Hoheweg, opposite Hotel Oberland, the 
road to the Kleine Rugen (see below) diverges to the S.E., while 
that in a straight direction leads past the Post Office (PI. P) to the 
Thunersee Station (p. 177). — The road diverging to the N.W. at 
the post-office crosses the two islands of Spielmatten (fine view, 
from the middle bridge, of the Jungfrau and the Monch, to the S.) 
and leads to Unterseen, with its old timber-built houses and modern 
church. LaTge manufactory of parquetry. The road to Merligen and 
Thun (p. 176) begins here to the left, by the hotels mentioned on 
p. 178. The road to the Habkern valley and to St. Beatenberg leads 
to the N.W. (pp. 181, 176). 

The *Kleine Rugen, a wooded spur of the Grosse Rugen, offers 
attractive walks and varying views. The principal path ascends 
straight from the Hotel Jungfraublick to the walk encircling the hill. 
Turning to the left, we reach the 'Humboldtsruhe' (view of the 
Jungfrau and Lake of Brienz) and the (Y2 hr.) Trinkhalle (cafe), 
commanding the Jungfrau, Monch, and Schwalmern. Farther on, 
beyond the 'Scheffel Pavilion' (with a view of Lake Thun), is the 
Kasthofer- Stein, a memorial of the chief forester Kasthofer, who, at 
the beginning of the 19th century, planted the hill with specimens of 
all the Swiss trees. Then past a reservoir and a chamois-enclosure, 
and back to H6tel Jungfraublick. Other paths, with benches and 
points of view, ramify in every direction. One ascends to the 
(25 min.) Rugenhbhe (2425'), where three clearings in the wood dis- 
close views of the Jungfrau and the lakes of Thun and Brienz. 

12* 



180 III. R. 46. — Map, p. 182. INTERLAKEN. Bernese 

Just beyond the Trinkhalle a path to the left, and then to the 
right, by a (1 min.) bench (where the path straight on leads in 
10 min. to Cafe* Unspunnen), descends to the Wagneren-Schlucht, 
between the Kleine and the Grosse Rugen. Near the Studer mem- 
orial (see below) our path joins a road which leads through the 
ravine, past the HStel- Pens ion Jungfrau, the Cafi Unspunnen, and 
the Bavaria Beer Garden , and below the ruin of Unspunnen , to 
Wilderswil (p. 183), affording views of the Lauterbrunnen valley and 
the Jungfrau, and of Lake Brienz to the left; 

In the middle of the Wagneren-Schlucht, about 300 paces from 
the parting of the roads at its W. end, is a rock inscribed with the 
name of Bernh. Studer (d. 1887), the geologist. Here a path di- 
verges to the right (W.), and ascends rapidly, passing a fine point 
of view on the right, to the (20 min.) "Heimwehfluh. (2218'). [An 
easier route is afforded by the Abendberg road mentioned below, 
along which we may drive to a point 5 min. below the Heimwehfluh 
(carr. 4 fr.).] The terrace in front of the restaurant commands a 
charming view (best in the afternoon) of the Bodeli and the lakes. 
The Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger are seen from the adjacent belvedere. 

A more extensive and picturesque view is commanded by the 

* Abendberg, above the Grosse Rugen (i 1 /^ hrs. ; horse 8, mule 
6 fr.). This is recommended for an afternoon-walk. We follow the 
road to ( 3 / 4 M.) the head of the Wagneren-Schlucht (see above), and 
then take the road to the right, which ascends in easy windings 
through wood. After ^2 M. the road branches, the arm to the right 
leading to the Heimwehfluh (see above), while the pleasant bridle- 
path to the left leads to the Abendberg, turning again to the left 
farther on and traversing wood all the way. On the top is the 

* Hotel Bellevue (3735'; R. 2-4, B. 1% D. 3% S. 2V 2 , pens, from 
6 fr.). — A path ascends from the hotel, across grass and past some 
chalets, to (20 min.) the 'Siebenuhr Tanne' (4125'), whence there 
is a charming view of Lake Thun, lying far below. 

A footpath leads past the different peaks of the Abendberg to the 
(3 hrs.) Rothenegg (6234'; shortest way from the hotel, 21/2 hrs.)- The next 
peaks of the range are the Fuchsegg (6348'), the Grosse Schiffli (6675'), the 
Kleine Schiffli (6587'), and finally the Jkiorgenberghom (7385'). The last is 
very difficult from this side (better from Saxeten, by the Renggli Pass, 
see p. 181). — A path leads from the Abendberg to Saxeten in 1 hr. (take 
the upper path to the right in the meadow, behind the second chalet). 

The Saxeten-Thal, between the Abendberg and the Bellenhochst 
(6860'), is reached from Wilderswil (p. 183) by a new road. The 
(5 M.) village of Saxeten (3600' ; *H6t. - Pens. Alpenrose , pens. 
4-6 fr.) is a health-resort, in a sheltered situation. Beyond it 
( 3 / 4 hr.) are the falls of the Ourbenbach and Weissbach. The valley 
is picturesquely closed by the Schwalmem. 

The 'Sulegg (7915'), an excellent point of view, is ascended from 
Saxeten in 4-4'/2 hrs., with guide (5 fr.). We first ascend to the Bellen-Alp 
(6205') either by the steep direct path in 2>/2 hrs., or by the bridle-path 
past the waterfalls of the Gilrbenbach and Weissbach and via the Nesslern Alp 



Oberland. INTBRLAKEN. Map, p. 182. — III. B.46. 181 

in 3 hrs. [The Bellenhdchtt (6860'), a grand point of view, is easily ascended 
from the Bellen-Alp in 3/4 hr.]. We then skirt the steep E. slope of the 
Sulegg for 'A hr. (good path), nearly as far as the Obere Suit-Alp (6690'), 
and reach the top in 1 hr. more. The descent may be made to lsenfluh 
(p. 183), by the Suls-Alp and Bodmi-Alp. — The 'Morgenberghorn (7385') 
may be ascended from Saxeten in 4 hrs. without difficulty (guide 5 fr.). 
The path, diverging to the right from the road '/« M. to the W. of Saxeten, 
ascends past the (2 hrs.) chalets of the Jnnerberg Alp to (1 hr.) the Renggli 
or Tanzbodeli Pass (6168'), between the Morgenberghorn and the Schwal- 
mern (see below). Thence we ascend (no path) along the S. and S.W. 
flanks of the mountain and after 40 min. reach the new club path, which 
leads up the W. side to 0>0 min.) the top. The view, especially of Lakes 
Thun and Brienz and of the mountains to the N., is very picturesque, but 
the higher Alps appear less imposing than from the Sulegg. The descent 
on the E. side to the Abendberg. over the rocks of the Schiffligrat and the 
Leissigengrat, is very dangerous (see p. 180). — The Schwalmern (9 1 35') is 
also ascended without trouble (572 hrs.; guide 8 fr.). We follow the Sulegg 
route to (3 1 < hrs.) the Suls-Alp (see above), whence we proceed to the W. 
through the Sulsthal, and skirt the S. side of the Lobhbrner (8430') till we 
reach the snow and debris of the sloping E. flank of the Schwalmern. A 
gradual ascent over this brings us to (2 hrs.) the arete and 0A ^ r th e 
summit (Bbchst- Schwalmern). The view is magnificent. Descent to the 
Renggli Pass (p. 184), li/si-2 hrs. 

About 100 paces beyond the Aare bridge on the Biienz road 
(p. 179) a notice-board indicates a number of walks on the Briick- 
wald, which stretches to the left up the slopes of the Harder. Fine 
view (now somewhat interfered with by trees) of the Bodeli, the 
lakes, and the mountains from the (20 min.) Hohbuhl (2070'), where 
a pavilion commemorates the visits of Weber, Mendelssohn, and 
Wagner to Interlaken. The Jungfrau is better seen from the Lustbiihl 
pavilion, >/ 4 hr. farther along the slope, whence we may return by 
the middle Aare bridge or by Unterseen (a walk of 1-1 */ 4 hr. in all). 

The Harderkulm (3985' ; Hot.-Pension Alpenrose, pens, from 
6 fr.), as the top of the Harder is called, is reached from Unterseen 
in about 2 hrs. We follow either the Habkern road (see below), or 
(pleasanter) the 'Habkern Promenade', which is shady in the morn- 
ing, and after 3 / 4 M., just before the divergence of the Beatenberg 
road (p. 176), ascend to the right by a good bridle-path, traversing 
wood (horse 12 fr.). Or we may ascend from the Hohbuhl (see above) 
in 13/ 4 hr., via the Obere Bleiki (3020') and the Falkenfluh Pavilion. 
From the summit we obtain a beautiful view of the Bodeli, the lakes, 
and the Bernese Alps. 

The castle-hill of Goldswil (2240'; i h hr.), beyond Schonegg on the 
Brienz road (p. 183), overlooks Lake Brienz and the sombre little Faulen- 
see or Lake of Goldswil ; the ruined tower is inaccessible. — A walk may be 
taken by the same road (or by a picturesque path crossing the hills between 
the road and Lake Brienz) to ('/« hr.) Ringgenberg (Pens. <fc Restaurant 
Seeburg, with garden, at the pier, pens. 5 fr. ; Pens. Beausijour, farther up 
the slope ; Bar, Bellevue, in the village, pens. 5-6 fr.), with a church built 
among the ruins of the castle (view), and to the Schadenburg (2388' ; tys hr. 
farther on), on a spur of the Graggen, an unfinished castle of the ancient 
barons of Ringgenberg. 

A pleasant excursion may be made to the Habkern-Thal (one-horse 
carr. from Interlaken to Habkern and back 15 fr.). The road from Unter- 
seen skirts the W. base of the Harder (see above; the road to Beatenberg 
diverges to the left, after 3 /i M.), and ascends the smiling valley on the 



182 III. Route 46. SCHYNIGE PLATTE. Bernete 

left bank of the Lomhach. It finally crosses to the right bank (3030') and 
ascend9 in windings to the village of (3'/2 M.) Habkern (3500'; clean inn), 
situated amid green pastures at the foot of the Gemmenalphorn. 

Three fine points of view may be visited from Habkern. The *Gem- 
menalphorn (6770'; better from Beatenberg, see p. 176) is reached by the 
Brandlisegg and Gemmen-Alp in 3 ] /2 hrs. The Hohgant (7215') is ascended 
in 4 hrs. by Bohl (5902') and the Aelgau-Alp (descent to Schangnau in 
the Emmen-Thal, see p. 156). The Augstmatthorn (7020') is ascended by 
the Bodmi-Alp in 3'/2 hrs. Descent to Niederried on the Lake of Brienz, 
see p. 204. 

A pleasant morning walk may be taken from Qsteig (p. 183; l 1 ^ M. 
from the Hoheweg), where the cemetery of the district lies, down the right 
bank of the Liitschine, either to (l'/4 M.) Bonigen (p. 204), or to the bridge 
halfway, across the river, and back to Interlaken. Another walk from 
Gsteig ascends the right bank of the Liitschine to ('/4 hr.) Gsteigwiler. 

From Bonigen to the Giessbach via, Iseltwald, see p. 204. 



The *Schynige Platte, one of the finest points of view in the 
Bernese Oberland , is reached by a Pack- and -Pinion Railway 
from station Wilderswil-Gsteig (1925'; p. 183) in lV^hr. (fare 8, 
down 4, return 10 fr. ; one class only), or from Interlaken- Ost 
(change at "Wilderswil-Gsteig) in l 1 ^ hr. (fares 9, 5, 11 fr. 40 c. ; 
3rd cl. 8 fr. 60, 4 fr. 60 c, 11 fr.; return - ticket , including S., 
R., and B. at the hotel, 15 fr.). — The line (maximum gradient 
1 : 4) crosses the Liitschine and ascends in curves to the Rothenegg 
Tunnel, heyond which it enters a wood of beeches and pines, afford- 
ing pretty glimpses to the left of Interlaken and the lakes, and 
reaches the watering station (3515'). 3M. Stat. Breitlauenen (5068'; 
Curhaus Breitlauenen, R.2V 2 , B. 1V 2 ,D.3V2, S. 27 2 ,peiis. 6-9 fr.), 
with charming view of the lakes of Brienz and Thun and the hills to 
the N.W. (or better from the Vogelstein, a jutting rock 150 paces to 
the N.). The line then ascends in a curve to the mountain-crest and 
passes through the Gratli Tunnel to the S. side of the hill, where we 
obtain a view of the Lauterbrunnen Valley, and then of the Liitschine 
valley; to the left towers the majestic Jungfrau. Following the S. 
slope of the crest, overlooking the Grindelwald Valley with the 
Schreckhorner and "Wetterhbrner, and threading a short tunnel, we 
reach the (£1/2 M.) Schynige Platte (6463' ; Buffet), the terminus. 
A broad path leads from the station along the Platte , a slope of 
crumbling and 'shining' slate, in 3 minutes to the * Hotel- Restau- 
rant (R. 4-5, B. iy 2 , D. 4, pens. 8-10 fr.). 

Magnificent "View of the Bernese Alps to the S. : from left to right, 
the Wellborn , Wetterhorner, Berglistock, Upper Grindelwald Glacier, 
Schreckhorner, Lauteraarhorner, Lower Grindelwald Glacier, the Finster- 
aarhorn peeping over the Eigergrat, the Fiescherhorner, Eiger, Monch, 
Jungfrau, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn, Breithorn, Tschingelhorn, 
Tschingelgrat, Gspaltenhorn, Weisse Frau, Doldenhorn, and the peaks of 
the Niesen and Stockhorn chains. The ridge concealing the base of the 
Jungfrau group is the Mannlichen (p. 194). 

An easy winding path ascends from the hotel past the Qeitshorn (view 
like that from the hotel) and the precipitous Gumihorn (6893 1 ) to the 
(20 min.) "Daube (6772'; rfmts.), whence the survey of the lakes and of 
the peaks to the N. is particularly fine; N.E. is the Brienzer Rothhorn, 




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Oberland. ZWEILUTSCHINEN. ///. Route 47. 183 

with Pilatus to the right in the distance. Towards evening the lakes of 
Neuchatel and Bienne glitter in the distance. — The Oberberghorn (6790"), 
25 min. to the E. of the Daube, has also been made accessible by flights 
of steps and affords a fine view of the Lake of Brienz. 

From the Schynige Platte to the Faulhom (4 hrs.), see p. 199. — De- 
scent from the Platte by Giindlischwand to Zweilutschinen, 3 hrs., steep at 
places. By the small pond near the Platte we descend to the right across 
pastures to the ( 3 /4 hr.) lower chalets of the Iselten-Alp (5116'; guide advis- 
able to this point, 2 fr.) ; thence through wood. 

Path from Gsteig to the Schynige Platte (4 hrs.). We either 
cross the bridge by the church of Gsteig, and take the road to the right 
to ( 3 /i M.) Gsteigwiler; in the middle of the village take the bridle-path 
to the left, and soon to the left again; after 17 min. ascend to the right, 
through wood; or, shorter, we ascend from Gsteig to the left, by a path 
between the church and the Steinbock, turning to the right where the path 
divides, and in 20 min. reach the bridle-path where it enters the wood. 
Then by numerous zigzags, crossing the railway twice, to the (IV2 hr.) 
Schonegg (4754') and the ('/< hr.) Breitlauenen Hotel (see p. 182). Thence 
to the top, l'/2 hr. 

47. The Lauterbrunnen Valley and Miirren. 

From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, 8 31., Bernese Oberland Railway 
in 3 / 4 hr. (fares 3 fr. 25, 1 fr. 95 c, return 5 fr. 20, 3 fr. 15 c); circular 
tour from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, the Kleine Scheidegg, Grindel- 
wald, and back to Interlaken, 23 fr. 45, 14 fr. 45 c. (tickets valid for 10 days). 
The railway (maximum gradient 3 l /2:100) has short sections on the rack- 
and-pinion system (maximum gradient 12 : 100). The traveller should see 
that he enters one of the carriages marked 'Lauterbrunnen'. — Carriage 
from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen and back, including 2 hrs.' stay, with 
one horse 9, two horses 15 fr. ; to Triimmelbach 12 or 22, to Steehelberg 
14 or 27 fr. — The following "Excursion (one day) is recommended: by 
railway to Miirren (p. 186; 2 hrs.), walk to the Upper Steinberg (p. 185; 
2 3 /4-3 hrs.), descend to (1 hr.) Trachsellauenen (p. 185), and return by the 
valley, past the falls of the Triimmelbach and Staubbach (p. 184), to Lauter- 
brunnen (2 3 /4 hrs. to the station). The views from Miirren and the Upper 
Steinberg are among the finest in Switzerland. — As far as Lauterbrunnen 
this route is suitable for cycling. 

The line begins at the Interlaken-Ost station (1865'; p. 177) and 
curves round through the fertile plain to (2>/2 M.) Wilderswil-Gsteiy 
(1925'; change for the Schynige Platte, p. 182). To the right is the 
village of Wilderswil ; to the left, the church of Gsteig (see ahove). 
— The train crosses the Lutschine and ascends its right hank through 
wood. On the left hank is the highroad. To the right rises the 
precipitous Rothenfluh, overtopped by the Sulegg; in the foreground, 
to the left, is the Mannlichen, with the Monch and Jungfrau adja- 
cent. We cross the Black Lutschine, which descends from Grindel- 
wald. To the left, in the background, peers the finely -shaped 
Wetterhorn. 

5V2M. Zweilutschinen (2150'; Railway Restaurant; Hotel Bar, 
R. IV2-2V2. B - I 1 /*' D - 3 i s - 2 fr -)> junction of the Lauterbrunnen 
and Grindelwald line (p. 190 ; unless in a through-carriage, change 
for Lauterbrunnen). 

Interesting excursion to (l 1 /! hr.) Isenfluh (3610'; H6l.-Pens. Jungfrau, 
5-7 fr.). About '/« M. from Zweilutschinen the bridle-path diverges to 
the right from the Lauterbrunnen road, and ascends the steep W. slope 
of the valley (shade after 3 p.m.). Isenfluh commands a splendid "View 



184 1II.B.47. — Map,p.l82. LAUTERBRUNNEN. Bernese 

of the Jungfrau and its neighbours, from the Grosshorn to the Eiger. — 
Fbom Isenfloh to Murren (3 hrs. ; guide desirable, from Zweiliitschinen 
7 fr.), a fine walk: follow the path straight to the (»/< hr.) Savsbach; 
ascend to the ('/< hr.) Spritsenweid ; then level, mostly through wood, to 
the O/2 hr.) Oriittch-Alp station (p. 186 1, and thence to (1 hr.) Miirren. — 
From Isenfluh to the Sulegg (7915'; 3-3'/2 hrs.; guide desirable), and the 
Schwalmern (9135'; 5 hrs.-, guide 10 fr.), see p. 181. 

The train crosses the White Liitschine, and ascends (two rack- 

and-pinion sections) the wooded * Valley of Lauterbrunnen, bounded 

by limestone cliffs, 1000-1500' in height. It crosses the Sausbach, 

which dashes down on the right, passes the Hunnenfluh, a huge 

tower-like rock on the left, and crosses the road several times. 

8 M. Lauterbrunnen. — The Railway Station lies 2620 1 above the 
sea-level; change carriages for Wengern-Alp and Grindelwald (p. 19U); 
3 min. higher up, to the right, is the station for the cable-railway to Miirren 
(p. 186). — Hotels: "Steinbock, at the station, R. 21/2-5, B. l'/s, dej. 3, D. 4, 
pens. 7-10 fr.; "Hot. Staubbach, with view of the Staubbach, R. 2-3, dej. 
21/2, D. 4, pens. 6-9 fr. ; "Adler, near the station, R. 2-3'/2, B. I1/4, B. 3>/2, 
S. 3, pens. 6-9 fr.; Hot. -Pens. Oberland; Hot. -Pens. Schweizerhof, oppo- 
site the station ; Hot. -Pens. Tbummelbach (see below}. — Restaurant 
Lauener, in an open situation. — Guides : Christ., Joh., and Peter Lauener, 
Heinr., Fritz, and Ulrich von Almen, Fritz and Carl Christ. Graf. Fritz 
Fuchi, Ulrich Brunner, Karl Schlunegger, Christ, and Fr. Steiner. — English 
Church Service in summer at the Steinbock. 

Lauterbrunnen (2615'; pop. 2553), a pretty, scattered village, 
lies on both banks of the Liitschine, in a rocky valley 4 / 2 M. broad, 
into which in July the sun's rays do not penetrate before 7, and in 
winter not till 11 a.m. It derives its name ('nothing but springs') 
from the numerous streams that descend from the rocks, or from 
the springs that rise at their base. The snow - mountain to the 
left , rising above the huge rocky precipices of the Schwarze Monch, 
is the Jungfrau; to the right is the Breithom. 

By the Hotel Staubbach, about 8 min. from the station, the road 
forks. The left branch descends past the church to the Triimmel- 
bach (see below) ; the right branch leads straight on to the (5 min.) 
*Staubbach ('spray-brook'), the best-known of the Lauterbrunnen 
falls. This brook, never copious, and in dry summers disappointing, 
descends from a jutting rock in a leap of 980', most of it, before it 
reaches the ground, being converted into spray, which bedews the 
meadows and trees far and near. In the morning-sun it resembles 
a silvery veil, wafted to and fro by the breeze, and by moonlight 
also it is beautiful. The best point of view is in a meadow in front 
of the fall, to the left of a seat marked by a flag (20 c). In the rock 
behind the fall is a dilapidated gallery. 

The road to the left at the fork (see above) crosses the White 
Liitschine near the church, and ascends its right bank, in view of 
the snowy Breithorn and the Schmadribach Fall. (To the left, a 
bridle-path to Wengen, p. 191.) In V2 ar - we reach the Hot.-Pens. 
Triimmelbach (R. 2 1 .'■>, B. 1 1/ 4 , dej. 2-3, D. 4, pens. 6-9 fr. ; omn. at 
Lauterbrunnen station; carr. there and back, including stay, 4fr.). 



Oberland. UPPER STEINBERG. Maps,pp.l82,183.—III.R.47. 185 

A path (adm. 50 c.) diverges here to the left to the (7 min.) *Trum- 
melbach Fall. The narrow gorge, with the copious Triimmelbach 
fed by the glaciers of the Jungfrau, is rendered accessible by steps 
and paths. The sun forms beautiful rainbows in the spray. 

Through the Triimleten-Thal to the Wengern-Alp (p. 192; 4 hrs., with 
guide, 8 fr.), trying but interesting. — To the Roththal Hut, see p. 190. — 
From Stechelberg (see below) via the Sefinm-Thal and the Bussen-Alp to the 
Tanzbedeli (7010'; 2'/2-3 hrs.; with guide), repaying (better from the Upper 
Steinberg, see below). 

The road ascends the valley, in view of several waterfalls, and 
passes the (18 min.) Domigen-Briicke, where we join the old route 
coming from the Staubbach. Beyond Stechelberg we reach (^hr.) 
the *Cafe §• Pens. Stechelberg (3020'; pens. 4'/2-5 fr.), where the road 
ends. The main bridle-path (to the left ; that to the right leads to 
the Seflnen Valley and Miirren, p. 188) skirts the right bank of the 
wild Liitschine, and crosses it near the (Y4 hr.) chalets of Sichel- 
lauenen (3275'). Thence we traverse wooded meadows to (50 min.) 
Trachsellauenen (4145' ; *H6t. Schmadribach , unpretending , R. 
2-2 1 /2> B. 172) pens, from 5 fr.), a picturesque cluster of chalets 
on the left bank of the Liitschine , l 3 /4-2 hrs. from the Trummel- 
hach and 2^2 hrs. from Lauterbrunnen. 

The path hence to the (l^hr.) Schmadribach Fall ascends the 
left bank of the Liitschine to the (12 min.) 'Bergwerk', the ruined 
furnace of a deserted lead-mine. Here it diverges to the left from 
the main path (which goes on to the Upper Steinberg, see below), 
and ascends (notice-boards) round a jutting rock (the 'Nadla'; the 
top of which, 20 min. from the inn, affords a good view of the 
waterfall), and past the chalets of the (Y2 hr.) Lower Steinberg Alp 
(4480'), where it crosses (to the left) the Thalbach (two bridges). 
Ascending the pastures on the right bank, we pass a waterfall, 
mount the Holdri, and reach (!/ 2 hr.) the Lager Chalet, in sight of 
tie *Schmadribach Fall. Nothing is gained by going closer to the 
fall. — From the 'Bergwerk' it is preferable to follow the path to 
the right, which zigzags up a gorge, clad with firs and ferns (not 
pleasant in wet weather), to the chalets of the Ammerten-Alp, and 
thence to the Upper Steinberg (5820'). Here (1^2 hr. from Trach- 
sellauenen) are the small *H6tel Tschingelhom (unpretending; R. 
3y 2 fr., B. 1 fr. 60 c, pens. 5 fr.) , and (a little farther up) the 
Eotel Ober-Steinberg (also very fair; pens. 5-6 fr.). The *View of 
the mountains and glaciers enclosing the upper valley of Lauter- 
htunnen is very fine (best point of view about 200 yds. beyond the 
Ober-Steinberg Hotel) ; from right to left are seen the Lauterbrunner 
letterhorn, with the Tschingelhom behind it, the Breithorn, the 
Mautiful Breithorn Glacier between these, then the Grosshorn, the 
J|ttaghorn, the Ebne-Fluh, the Gletscherhorn, and the Jungfrau, 
Wile directly opposite is the Schmadribach Fall. — In descending 
to Trachsellauenen , we diverge to the right 20 min. beyond the 
Hot. Tschingelhom. 



186 III.R.47. — Map,p.l83. MURREN. Bernese 

A still grander view is obtained from the "Tanzbiideli (7010'), the laBt 
E. spur of the Tschingelgrat, reached from the Obere Steinberg in2'/shrs. 
(there and back; see p. 185). A boy will show the way (steady head ne- 
cessary) for lVa-2 fr. 

A somewhat fatiguing route (guide advisable) leads from the tipper 
Steinberg along the moraine of the Tschingel Glacier to the (O/z hr.) *0ber- 
hornsee (6823'), a beautiful little blue lake, magnificently situated in the 
rocky hollow between the Tschingel and Breithorn Glaciers. Adjacent is 
the Oberhom Alp. — Hence to the (3 hrs.) Mutthorn But, see p. 189. 



FROM LauterbruNNEN TO MORREN, 3'/ 4 M. — Cable and Electric 
Railway in 55 min. (fares 3 fr. 75 c. ; return-ticket, valid for 3 days, 6 fr.). 
The station of the cable-railway in Lauterbrunnen (2705') lies 3 min. from 
that of the Bernese Oberland Railway (see p. 184). 

The Cable Railway (1510 yds. in length; average gradient 
55 : 100) mounts straight through meadows and wood, to the (8/4 M.) 
Orutsch-Alp (4890'). Here we change carriages for the Electric 
Railway, which follows the slope, crossing several streams, to 
(3 1 /* M.) Murren. To the left a magnificent *View of a grand 
amphitheatre of mountains and glaciers is revealed : the Eiger and 
the Monch, the Jungfrau with its dazzling Schneehorn and Silber- 
horn, the huge precipices of the Schwarze Monch rising abruptly 
from the valley, the wall of the Ehne-Fluh with its mantle of 
spotless snow ; then, as we approach Murren (near which the Jung- 
frau disappears behind the Schwarze Monch), the Mittaghorn, the 
Grosshorn (from which the Schmadribach descends), the Breithorn, 
the Tschingelhorn, the Tschingelgrat, and the Gspaltenhorn. 

The Bridle Path from Lauterbrunnen to Murren, 2-2 1 /a hrs. (descent, 
l'/4 hr.), is attractive in dry weather. It ascends rapidly to the right about 
3 min. from the station, beyond the Adler Hotel, at the guide-post 
('Murren 5.7 Kil.', i.e. 3!/2 M.), and crosses the Greifenbach twice. Beyond 
the second bridge (20 min.) it ascends through wood, crosses the Fluhbachli, 
the (20 min.) Lauibach (fine waterfall), and the Berrenbdchli, and reaches 
(25 min.) the bridge over the scanty Pletschbach or Stattbbach (4037'; 
rfmts.). In 5 min. more, where the wood has been much thinned, we 
obtain a beautiful view of the Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger, which remain 
in sight for the rest of the way. Farther up, by (V2 hr.) a saw-mill 
(4920'), we cross two branches of the Spissbach, in 25 min. more reach 
the top of the hill (view see above), and then walk alongside the railway 
to O/2 hr.) Murren. Comp. Map, p. 183. 

Murren. — Hotels. 'Grand Hotel & Curhaus Murren, 5 min. from 
the station, beautifully situated, with restaurant, Cursaal, and several 
dependances (Bellevue, Fontana, Victoria), R. 4-10, B. I1/2, dej. 3 J /2, D. 5, 
pens, from July 15th to Sept. 1st 10-18, at other times 8-15 fr. ; 'Grand 
Hotel des Alpes, nearer the station, with restaurant (Munich beer on 
draught, 60 c), R. 3V2-8, B. ls/ 4) dej. 4, D. 5, pens. 9-17 fr. ; S. B. G. H. at 
both. — «H6t.-Pens. Jungfrau, R. 3-4, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 8-10 fr., near the 
English Church, above the Curhaus; "Hot. Eiger, close to the station, 
R. 21/2-31/2, B. I1/2, dej. 3, D. 3>/2-i, pens. 7-10 fr.; «H6t.-Pens. Beau-Site, 
8 min. from the station, R. 3-5, B. iy 2 , dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 6-I21/2 fr. ; *H3t.- 
Pens. Alpenruhe, farther to the S., in an open situation, pens. 7-12 fr.; 
Pens. Blumentiial; 'Hot. -Pens. Edelweiss, 3 min. from the station, R- 2-3, 
B. 1V<, dej. 2 1 /-.-, D. 3, pens. 6-7 fr. ; Pens. Belmont, 6-8 fr. — English 
Church and Roman Catholic Chapel. 

Murren (5385'), situated on a terrace high above the Lauter- 
brunnen Valley, is one of the most frequented points in the Bernese 



Oberland. 



MUKREN. Map,p.lfi3. — III.R.d7. 187 



Oberland. It commands a famous 
view, including not only the 
above-mentioned peaks, but also 
the Wetterhorn to the left, and 
the Grosse Hundshom to the ex- 
treme right (p. 188). Pleasant 
walks with numerous benches 
skirt the slopes of the Allmmd- 
hulel, a height to the W., on 
which firs grow higher up. 

The top of the Allmendhvbel (fxiS8) 
is reached in »/4 nr -i by following the 
above-mentioned paths to the left to 
(1/4 hr.) the first chalets of Allmend, 
then the path to the Schilthorn to 
(20 min.) a solitary chalet , and fin- 
ally to the right for 6 or 8 min. more. 
The view includes the snowy Jung- 
frau in addition to the peaks seen 
from Miirren. — Another good view- 
point is the Obere Witiieregg (5738'), 
1/2 hr. to the N.W. of Miirren, by a 
path diverging to the left above the 
.electric railway, 10 min. to the N. of 
Miirren. 

The "Schilthorn (9753 1 ; 441/2 hrs.-, 
guide 8 fr., not indispensable for ex- 
perts) is an admirable and easily 
reached point of view. The path 
ascends along the W. side of the 
Allmendhuoel (see above), enters the 
bleak Enge-Thal, and mounts over 
the Seelifuren (8540') to the (3 hrs.) 
rocky basin above the Qraue Seek. 
Then a steep ascent over snow, 
loose stones , and rock , past the 
■monument to Mrs. Arbuthnot, who 
was killed here by lightning in 
1865, to the Klein e Schilthorn (9400) 
and across the arete without diffi- 
culty to the (MVs hr) flat summit 
of the Grosse Schilthorn. Magnificent 
survey of the Jungfrau, the queen of 
the Bernese Alps, and of the whole 
chain (including the Gspaltenhorn and 
Bliimlisalp, to the S.), and of ». 
Switzerland (Rigi, Pilatus, etc.) ; pan- 
orama by Imfeld. Mont Blanc is not 
visible hence, but is seen from the 
arete, about 250 yds. to the W., a 
little below the summit. — The 
descent (2y 2 hrs.) may be consider- 
ably curtailed by glissades down 
three snow-slopes (quite free from 
danger). The route through the im- 
posing Sefinen-Thal (p. 188), by the 
Seflnen-Alp and the Teufelsbriicke 
(a fine point above Gimmelwald), is 
longer by l'/a hr. than the direct path, 




18& III.R.47. — Maps,pp.l83,212. SEFINEN-FURGGE. Bernete 

but far more interesting (unfit for ladies ; guide 15 fr.). A shorter way 
back leads past the Oraue Seeli and down the steep SchiltflUhe (guide ad- 
visable), and afterwards through the beautiful pastures of the Schiltalp 
(6390'), with views of the Jungfrau, etc. — Descent by the Telli to the 
Eienthal, see p. 212. 

Ascent of the Grosse Hundshorn (9620' ; 5 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.), from Miirren 
not difficult; Biittlassen (10,490'; ?V2hrs. ; guide 25 fr.), more trying. The de- 
scent in each case may be made into the Kienthal (p. 212). — From Miirren 
via. Itenfluh and the Sulegg to Saxeten (9 hrs. ; guide 12 fr.), see p. 180. 

At the Chalet Bellevue, beyond the Curhaus, a guide-post in- 
dicates the way (to the left) to Stechelberg, and 100 paces farther 
on the path divides; here we descend to the left. In 5 min. more we 
cross a bridge over a fall of the Murrenbach, and at (20 min.) the 
beginning of Gimmelwald the road forks. The branch to the right 
leads straight to the (8 min.) Hot.-Pens. Schilthorn (4550' ; pens. 
5-6 fr. ; Engl. Ch. Serv. in summer), on the brink of the grand 
Sefinen-Thal, which is enclosed by the Biittlassen, the Gspalten- 
horn, and the Tschingelgrat. The branch to the left descends in 
4 min. to the Hot.-Pens. Oimmelwald (4 1 /2 - 5 fr-)- 

To the Sefinen-Thal, an interesting walk (as far as the Gspaltenhorn 
Glacier and back 3 hrs. ; guide unnecessary). To the W. of the Hotel Schilt- 
horn we cross the (5 min.) Schillbach, and ascend on the left side of the 
Sefinen-Thal (with the superb Jungfrau behind us); then P/« hr.) cross a 
bridge (Furten) and enter a pine-wood, and lastly, in a grand basin, with 
numerous waterfalls, traverse stony de'bris to the P/« hr.) Gspaltenhorn (or 
Kilchbalm) Glacier, at the foot of the Gspaltenhorn (11,275'; ascent very 
difficult; guide 70 fr. ; comp. p. 212). — Experts (with guide) may proceed 
from the Furten via the Oeen-Alp to the (l'/4 hr.) Oberberg-Alp (60200 and 
to the (3/4 hr.) Briinli (6995'; fine view). A steep rocky path descends hence 
to Giimmelen (5960 1 ) and ( 3 /4 hr.) Miirren. 

The route to Stechelberg descends to the left past the Hotel 
Gimmelwald and (y 4 hr.) crosses the Seflnen- Liitschlne. After a 
short ascent we again descend through wood, and cross a brook 
descending from the right, enjoying a view, to the left, of the beau- 
tiful Sefinen Fall. The path divides (12 min.): the branch to the left 
descends steeply to (^4 hr.) Stechelberg (p. 185); that to the right 
goes on at the same level to Trachsellauenen ('Hot. Schmadri- 
bach 40 min.' ; p. 185). A footpath (steep at places) diverges to 
the right from the latter after 6 min., passes a deserted spar mine, 
and reaches (l!/ 2 hr.) the Hotel Tschingelhorn on the Upper Stein- 
berg (p. 185 j in all about 3 hrs. from Miirren; guide, 7 fr., unneces- 
sary in good weather). 

Passes. From MCkeen oveh the Sefinen-Fubgge to the Eienthal, 
not difficult, and on the whole attractive (8-9 hrs. to Reichenbach ; guide 
from Lauterbrunnen 20 fr.). From Miirren the path ascends via the 
Schiltalp (see above) and Alp Boganggen (6710') to the (3 hrs.) Seflnen- 
Furgge (8583'), between the Great Hundshorn (9620") and the Biittlassen 
(10,490'; see above and p. 212). (The path by Gimmelwald and through 
the Sefinen-Thal is easier, but 1 hr. longer.) Descent (fine view of the 
Wilde Frau and Bliinilisalp) past the chalets of Diirrenberg (6545'), BUrgH 
(5327'), and Steinenberg (4856' ; quarters) to the Gorneren-Alp, by the Baren. 
pfad to the (2Vz hrs.) T*chingel-Alp (3783'), and down the Kienthal to 
(2'/2 hrs.) Reichenbach (p. 212). 

Fkom MOkkkn to Kanderstkg ovkk the Skfinen-Fckgge AND TUB 
HoHTHUKLi, a fatiguing but interesting expedition (12-13 hrs.; guide from 



Oberland. PETERSGRAT. Maps,pp.l83,212.—III.R.47. 189 

Lauterbrunnen 25 fr.). Over the Sefinen-Furgge to the Kienthal, see p. 188. 
At the (4 hrs.) chalet of Bilrgli (see p. 188) we follow a narrow path to the 
left through the rocky gorge of the Pochtenbach (observe the curiously 
contorted strata of the rocks on the opposite bank) to the Qamchi (5500 1 ), 
near the end of the Oamchi Glacier (Gamchiliicke, see p. 212); here we cross 
the brook, ascend rapidly (path recently improved) to the Upper Bund-Alp, 
and traverse pastures, stony slopes, and snow to (3Vs hrs.) the Hohthiirli 
(88800, a depression of the Oeschinengrat between the Schwarzhorn (9150') 
and the Wilde Frau (10,693'), affording a superb view of the Bliimlisalp, 
Doldenhorn, etc. Descending on the S. side of the pass for about 200', 
and then keeping to the left at the foot of the arete , we reach first the 
old Frauenbahn Hut, and beyond it (20 min.) the new Bliimlisalp Hut of 
the Swiss Alpine Club (9055' ; ascents from here, see p. 213). We now 
descend over debris and the rocky ledges of the Schafberg, with the Bliim- 
lisalp Glacier quite near us on the left (path very dizzy at places), to the 
Upper Oeschinen - Alp (64700, and by steep steps cut in the rock to the 
Lower Oeschinen-Alp, pass round the N.W. side of the Oeschinen- See (5223'), 
and reach (4 hrs.) Kandersteg (p. 213). 

Fkom Lauterbronnen to Kandersteg ovee the Tschingel Pass 
(13-14 hrs.; guide 30, porter 25 fr.), fatiguing, but for tolerable moun- 
taineers free from difficulty. The night had better be spent at (2V2 hrs.) 
Trachsellauenen or at the Upper Steinberg (p. 185; 4 hrs. from Lauter- 
brunnen). We thence follow the W. slope of the valley to the (V2 hr.) 
left lateral moraine of the receding Tschingel Glacier and toil up it for 
some time (a nearly perpendicular part, called the Tschingeltritt, about 
13' high, is now avoided by means of a narrow path). Farther up (1 hr.) 
we come to turf (pleasanter ; a halt usually made here ; superb view). 
Then again across debris in V2 hr. to the Tschingelflrn , an immense 
expanse of ne've' ; for 20 min. we follow the left moraine, and then take 
to the glacier, where the rope becomes necessary. A gradual ascent of 
lVzhr. brings us to the top of the Tschingel Pass (9265'), where a view of 
the mountains of the Gastern-Thal is disclosed; behind us towers the ma- 
jestic Jungfrau with her S. neighbours, and to the left is the Eiger. On the 
right are the furrowed Gspaltenhorn (p. 212) and the Gamehililcke (9295' ; 
pass to the Kienthal, p. 212). An additional hour may be devoted to the 
Gamchiliicke, which affords a striking survey of the Kienthal, the Niesen, 
and the Bernese plain. To the left of the Tschingel Pass rises the Mutt- 
horn (see below). The descent across the Kanderfim, bounded on the right 
by the rocky walls of the Bliimlisalp and the Frundenhorn and on the 
left by the Petersgrat, is easy. After I74 hr. we quit the snow for the 
left lateral moraine and descend steeply, over loose stones and then over 
grass, to the Gastern-Thal, passing a 6pur which overlooks the Alpetli 
Glacier, descending from the Kanderfirn. We then follow the narrow 
crest of a huge old moraine, which descends precipitously on the right 
to the former bed of the glacier, 65 80' below; l'/2 hr., bridge over the 
Kander; 6 min., the first chalet of Heimritz (5315'; coffee, milk, and beds); 
V» hr., chalets of Selden or Gastern. Hence through the *Klus to (2'/4 hrs.) 
Kandersteg, see pp. 218, 219. 

'From Ladterbrcnnen to the Lotschen-Thal over the Petersgrat 
(from the Steinberg to Kied 9-10 hrs.}, trying, for experts only, but very 
grand (guide 40 fr., porter 30 fr.; guide to the Mutthorn Hut 20 fr.). From 
the Obersteinberg Hotel we ascend to the (l'/i hr.) Oberhornsee (p 186) and 
across the Tschingel Glacier to the (3 hrs.) Mutthorn Hut of the S.A.C. 
(9645'), at the S.E. base of the Mutthorn (9975'), which may be ascended 
hence in '/ihr., with guide. More difficult are the Tschingelhorn (11.7S0 1 ; 
3-3'/2 hrs. ; guide from Lauterbrunnen 40 fr.), and the Lauierbrunner Breit- 
horn (12,400'; 5-6 hrs.; guide 60 fr., with descent to Ried 70 fr.). — An 
easy ascent of 3 /«-l hr. over the ne've' of the Tschingel Glacier brings us 
to the Petersgrat (10.515'), a lofty snow-arete commanding a superb view 
of the Alps of the Valais. We then descend over the jEustere Thai Glacier 
to the U.W. base of the Tellispitzen (9595'), whence a steep descent leads 
over snow, debris, and turf to the Telli-Thal, Blatten, and (3>/2 hrs.) Ried 



190 III. B. 48. — Map, p. 182. LTJTSCHEN-THAL. Bernese 

(p. 217). — Over the Wetterlucke (from the Upper Steinberg to Ried 
10 hrs.; guide 40 fr.), difficult. From the (l>/2hr.) Oberhornsee (p. 186) we 
cross the crevassed Breithorn Glacier to the (4-4'/2 hrs.) Wetterlucke (10,865'), 
between the Tschingelhorn and Breithorn. The descent leads by the Innere 
Thai Glacier to (4 hrs.) Blatten and (•/< hr.) Ried (p. 217). — Over the 
Schmadri-Joch (10-11 hrs.; gnide 45 fr.), also difficult. From the (I72 hr.) 
Oberhorn-Alp (p. 186) we ascend to the left over the Breithorn Glacier to the 
(4 hrs.) Schmadri-Joch (10,863'), between the Breithorn and Grosshorn. 
On the other side we descend over the Jdgifirn to the (4 hrs.) Gletscheritaffel 
Alp (chalets) and to (1 hr.) Ried (p. 217). Or from the Gletscherstaffel Alp 
we may proceed to the (4 hrs.) Lstschenlilcke (10,510') and descend via the 
Grosse Aletschfirn to the (3 hrs.) Concordia Pavilion (p. 342). 

From Lauterbrunnen to the Eggishorn over the Lauithor (12,140'), 
difficult and hazardous (18 hrs. ; night spent in the Roththal Hut; guide 
80 fr.), through the wild Roththal, across the huge ice and rock arete con- 
necting the Rothlhalhom (12,945') and Gletscherhorn (13,064'), and down the 
Kranzberg-Fim and the Great Aletsch Glacier to the Concordia Pavilion and 
the Eggishorn Hotel (p. 342). — Over the Ebnefluh-Joch (12,300'), between 
the Ebnefluh (13,005') and Mittaghorn (12,750'), very laborious, but without 
danger to experts (15-16 hrs. ; guide 80 fr.). — It will repay a robust and 
steady-headed expert to go as far as the Roththal Hut (8860' -, 5 hrs. from 
Stechelberg, crossing the Stufenstein-Alp), and to return the same way 
(a good day's walk; guide 25 fr.). Ascent of the Jungfrau by the Roththal 
Saddle or by the S-W. arete, see p. 192. 



48. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. 

Bernese Oberland Railway : a. Direct (12>/2 M.) in 1 hr. 20 min. (fares 5, 
3 fr., return 8 fr., 4 fr. 80 c). b. Via Lauterbrunnen and Wengern-Alp 
(19'/2 M.) in 5-572 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 45 c, 11 fr. 45 c); from Lauterbrunnen, 
11 M. in 272-4 hrs. (fares 15 fr. 20 c, 9 fr. 50 c. ; circular tickets for both lines, 
valid for ten days, 23 fr. 45, 14 fr. 45 c). The third-class carriages are little 
inferior to the first. As the trains from Lauterbrunnen in the high season 
are usually crowded, it is preferable to perform the journey across the 
Wengern-Alp in the reverse direction t Grindelwald- Scheidegg- Lauter- 
brunnen). — Carriage from Interlaken to Grindelwald 12. with two horses 
24 fr. ; there and back in one day 13 or 25 fr., in two days 28 or 45 fr. — 
Pedestrians still prefer the beautiful Walk over the Wengern-Alp to 
Grindelwald: bridle-path to the Wengern-Alp 3 (descent 2), Little Scheid- 
egg 3 /« (descent 1/2), Grindelwald 2'/2 hrs. (ascent 372 hrs.) ; in all 67« hrs. 
from Lauterbrunnen. Small trunks may be sent on by train. — The road 
from Zweilutschiuen to Grindelwald is too steep for cycling. 

a. Direct Line (carriages marked 'Grindelwald'). From Inter- 
laken to (51/2 M.) Zweilutschinen (2150'), see p. 183. The Grindel- 
wald train ascends the left bank of the Black Liitschine, traversing 
a tunnel and an avalanche gallery in the wooded and populous 
Lutschen - Thai. To the left are the slopes of the Schynige Platte 
(p. 182); to the right rises the precipitous Mannlichen (p. 194). 
Beyond (8*/2 M.) Lutschenthal (2355') the train crosses to the right 
bank and ascends the Stalden by rack -and -pinion (1935 yds.; 
gradient 12 : 100) to (10 M.) Burglauenen (2915'). In front appear 
the Wetterhorn and the Berglistock. Farther on we pass through the 
defile of the Ortweid, after which a view of the beautiful valley of 
Grindelwald is suddenly disclosed : to the right is the massive 
Eiger, adjoined by the Jungfrau with the Schneehorn and the Silber- 
horn ; in the middle are the Mettenberg and the Schreckhorner, 



Oberland. WENGEN. Map, p. 182. — III. B.48. 191 

and to the left the Berglistock and the majestic Wetterhorn. The 
train lastly ascends another toothed rail section (1420 yds.} to 
(121/a M Orindelwald (p. 194). 

d. By the Wengebn-Alp Line (Riggenbach's rack- and-pinion 
system). The trains on this line have only one car each, but when 
passengers are numerous extra trains are despatched (journey and 
fares, see p. 190). — Lauterbrunnen (2640'), see p. 184. The rail- 
way describes a curve, crosses the Liitschine, and rapidly ascends 
the steep slopes below the village of Wengen, where it passes over 
several viaducts and bridges. Hence we enjoy a fine retrospect of 
Lauterbrunnen and its valley and of the Schmadribach Fall in the 
background, with the Breithorn and Grosshorn above it. Higher up, 
to the right of the former, is the Tschingelhorn, and to the left of 
the precipitous Schwarze Monch are the Silberhorn and Jungfrau. 
On the opposite (W.) side of the valley ascends the cable-railway to 
Miirren, above which (r.) rises the Sulegg-Grat, with the serrated 
Lobhorner. A wide curve brings us to — 

iy 2 M. Wengen. — Hotels. "Grand-Hotel National, R. 3-8, E. H/z, 
D. 5, S. 3Va-4, pens. 8-17 fr.; "Hot.-Pens. Blumlisalp, R. 3-5, B. I1/2, dej. 3, 
D. 41/2, pens. 6-11 fr. ; "Hot. -Pens. Victoria, R. 2V2-3, pens. 6-10 fr. ; *H6t.- 
Pens. Falken, R. 2-3, D. 3, pens. 6-9 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. Silberhorn, E. 2-2V2, 
B. I1/4, D- 2V2, pens. 6-9 fr., these five near the rail, station; Hot. -Pens. 
Waldrand, 1/4 M. from the station, pens. 6-8 fr. ; "Hot.-Pens. Belvedere, 
R. 3-5, B. l'/j, dt!j. 3, D. 4V2, pens. 6-10 fr. ; "Hot.-Pens. .Tungfraublick, 
in an open situation, pens. 6-8 fr. ; *H3t.-Pens. Montana, R. 2-2 1 /.", B. IV4, 
D. 3, S. 2V2, pens. 6-8 fr. ; Pens. La Rondinella, pens. 6-9 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. 
Alpenrose, 7 min. from the station (pass under the line near the Hot. 
Blumlisalp), R. 2-3, B. I1/4, D- 3-3>/2, S. 21/2, pens. 6-8 fr. ; "Pens. Alpina, 
pens. 5-6 fr. ; "Pens. Brunner, 8 min. from the station, on the Wengern- 
Alp route, pens. 5-6 fr. ; "Bellevue, R. 2'/2-3, B. I1/2, D. 3V2, S. 21/2, pens. 
6-9 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. Mittaghorn, farther on and lower down, well spoken 
of, pens. 6-8 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. Wengen, s/4 M. beyond the Alpenrose, R. IV2-2, 
B. H/2, D. 3-3V2, S. 2-2>/2, pens. 6-9 fr. — English Church Service in summer. 

Wengen (4190'), situated amidst well-shaded meadows, below 
the precipitous Tschuggen (p. 194), with a view of the Lauter- 
brunnen Valley and of the Jungfrau and other mountains to the S., 
is much visited as a summer-resort. Attractive walks to the Leiter- 
horn, 1 hr. from the station, below the Mannlichen (p. 194); to 
the Mettlen-Alp and Wengern-Alp (see p. 192), etc. 

Bridle Path from Lauterbrunnen to the Wengern-Alp (3 hrs.). From 
the station we descend to the left, cross the Liitschine, and ascend 
straight on, soon joining the path mentioned at p. 185. 3 /4 Iir. Restaurant 
hinder, with pavilion and view. Farther up (20 min.) a finger-post shows 
the way to the left, by the H6t. Mitiaghorn and Hdt. Alpenrose, to the 
(20 min.) Wengen station; to the right to (10 min.) Pens. Wengen, and 
thence uphill, and (10 min.) to the left again, to a point below the watering- 
station (see p. 192). — This steep ascent is avoided by taking the railway 
to Wengen. From the station we cross the terrace in front of Hot. Blumlisalp, 
turn to the left, and a little farther on to the right, crossing the line and 
following the fenced path amidst houses and meadows; V2 hr. a chalet 
(rfmts.); 10 min. we join the above-mentioned path from Pens. Wengen; 
8 min. pass through a gate into the pine-wood, from which we emerge 
20 min. farther on, and turn to the left. In 3 /i hr. more, passing under 
the line, we reach the Hdtel Jungfrau (see p. 192). — If we go straight 



192 III.R.48. — Map,p.l82. WENGERN-ALP. Bttnttt 

on after quitting the wood, we reach the ( 8 /4 hr.) "Mettlen-Alp (5680') 
on the N. side of the TrUmleten- Thai, directly facing the Jungfrau. Hence 
we may either ascend to the Wengern-Alp in 3 /t hr. , or walk round the 
head of the Triimleten-Thal to the (1 hr.) Biglen-Alp, with the Bandlauenen 
Glacier, and thence to the ( 3 /< hr.) Wengern-Alp. — From Wengen direct 
to the top of the "Mdnnlichen (p. 194), 2>/2-3 hrs., rather steep, bat other- 
wise easy and very attractive. 

Beyond Wengen the railway curves towards the Tschuggen 
affording a continuous view of the snow-mountains and glaciers 
from the Grosshorn to beyond the Gspaltenhorn, with the Breithorn 
in the centre. After a short halt at a Watering Station below the 
Lauberhorn (p. 193) we skirt the Galtbachhorn (7610') and reach 

41/2 M. Wengern-Alp (6160'; *H6t. Jungfrau, R. 4-5, B. 13/ 4 , 
de"j. 3, D. 4-5, pens. 8-10 fr.), where we enjoy a celebrated *View, 
across the TrUmleten- Thai, of the Jungfrau (13,670 r ), with her 
dazzling shroud of eternal snow, flanked by the Silberhorn (12,155') 
on the right and the Schneehorn (11,205') on the left. The pro- 
portions of the mountain are so gigantic, that the eye attempts in 
vain to estimate them, and its distance (2!/ 2 M.) seems annihilated. 
To the left of the Jungfrau, the highest peak of which is not visible, 
rise the Monch (13,465') and the Eiger (13,040'). To the right, 
farther back, are the Tschingelgrat, Ospaltenhorn, and the broad 
mass of the Biittlassen. To the N. of the last are the Hundshorn, 
Schilthom, and Schwarzhorn (named from W. to E.). 

The view from the (20 min.) Bundsschopf (bench and flag) is little 
superior to that from the Hotel Jungfrau. A fine view of the Lauter- 
brunnen valley is obtained from the Oiirmtchbuhl (6223'), reached by 
diverging to the left from the Wengen path, '/i hr. below the station, 
and turning, 8 min. farther on, to the right (while the path to the left leads 
to the Mettlen-Alp, see above). 

On the Wengern-Alp, at Grindelwald, and elsewhere the traveller may 
witness Snow or Ice Avalanches, which, on warm, sunny days, generally 
occur several times an hour. Except that the solemn stillness of these de- 
solate regions is broken by the echoing thunders of the falling masses, the 
spectacle can hardly be called imposing. The avalanche, as it descends 
from rock to rock on the mountain-side, to disappear at its foot, resem- 
bles a huge white cascade. The more destructive avalanches, bearing with 
them rocks, earth, and gravel, occur only in spring and winter. 

The 'Jungfrau (13,670') was scaled for the first time in 1811 by Ru- 
dolf and Hieronymus Meyers of Aarau, and from that time to 1851 the 
ascent was only accomplished four times ; but it has since been under- 
taken frequently. Though difficult and fatiguing, it is unattended with 
danger to experts with good guides and in favourable conditions of the 
snow. The easiest ascent is that by the S. side, the night being spent in 
the Concordia Pavilion (p. 342), 5 hrs. from the Eggishorn Hotel ; thence to 
the summit 6-7 hrs. (guide 70 fr.). The ascent from Grindelwald is more 
trying (guide 80 fr. , with descent to the Eggishorn 100 fr. ; porter 60 and 
80 fr.). It is facilitated by spending a night in the Bergli-Hutle (p. 198), 
8 hrs. from Grindelwald ; thence over the Monchjoch and the Jungfraufirn 
to the Roththal-Saltel 4'/ 2 5 hrs.. and to the top in l'/< hr. more. — The 
ascents from the Guggi Hut (p. 194) over the Silberlucke and from Lauterhrnn- 
nen by the Rothihal-Sattel (12,653') are very difficult and hazardous (guide 
'.10 fr., to Eggishorn 100 fr ). That from the Rolhthal Hitl (p. 190) over the 
S.W. arete (<6-% hrs.) is also trying, but is not dangerous when the rocks 
are dry and free from snow or ice (guide 70, with descent to Grindelwald 
80, to Eggishorn 1U0 fr.). We ascend over rocks for 4-4'/2 hrs., the last 
part being a steep climb up the granite walls of the arete. We then cross 



Oberland. LITTLE SCHEIDEGG. Map,p.l82.—in.R.48. 193 

a snow-arete, which requires a steady head and is sometimes rather un- 
pleasant (in late summer often solid ice). This brings us to the upper 
neve, over which we ascend without trouble to (l J /2 hr.) the summit. The 
"View is superb. — The Silberhorn (12,155'; ascended for the first time, 
in 1863, by Ed. von Fellenberg and Karl Baedeker) is scaled from the Guggi 
Club Hut (p. 194) via the Guggi, Kiihlauentn, and Giessen Glaciers, in 
1012 hrs. (difficult and trying; guide 50 fr.). The ascent by the W. arete 
was first achieved in 1887 by Mr. Seymour King. 

From the Wengern-Alp the train ascends gradually. Splendid 
views of the Jungfrau. Walkers follow the bridle-path, which crosses 
the line near the Hotel Jungfrau, and then skirts it to the (8/4 hr.) 
station of Scheidegg. This walk is recommended for the descent. 

6 M. Scheidegg (carriages changed in both directions ; detention 
frequent), on the summit of the Little, Lauterbrunnen, or Weugern 
Scheidegg (6770'; *Curhaus Bellevue, R. 4-6, B. 13/ 4 , de'j. 3% 
D. 4, pens. 8-12fr. ; Engl. Ch. Serv. in July and August; *Bail. 
Restaurant, de'j. 3'/2 &•)• ^^ s ridge affords a striking view of the 
valley of Grindelwald to the N., as far as the Great Scheidegg, 
dominated on the right by the broad summit of the Wetterhorn, with 
its rocky peaks and snow -fields, and bounded on the N. by the 
Schwarzhorn range. (To the extreme left is the blunt cone of the 
Faulhorn, with its inn.) On the S. opens a splendid view of the 
Monch, Eiger, and Jungfrau, with the Silberhorn and Schneehorn 
(but more in profile than from the "Wengern-Alp). 

To the Eiger Glacier, a pleasant walk of 3 /4 hr., with fine views, 
especially from the "Fallbodmhubel (7136'; about halfway). Those who 
prefer may use the Jungfrau Railway (see below) as far as (H/4 M.) the 
Eiger Glacier Station (16 min. ; fare 2 fr., there and back 3 fr.), or the 
Rothstocle Station (28 min.; fare there and back 5 fr.). The train starts on 
the arrival of those from Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. In the Eiger 
Glacier is an artificial ice-grotto (adm. free; fee to keeper). — The new 
Jungfrau Railway, an electric rack-and-pinion line of 3 ft. 4 in. gauge, 
ascends from the Scheidegg to the right, over pastures, offering line views 
of the Jungfrau and the mountains of the Lauterbrunnen valley. Beyond 
a tunnel (92 yds. long) it reaches (l'A M.) Stat. Eiger Glacier (7645'; "Restau- 
rant, with veranda, D. 4fr.), in a scene of wild magnificence (footpath 
descending to the right to the Eiger Glacier, see above). Farther on the 
line skirts the face of the cliffs and enters the tunnel of the Jungfrau 
line proper. 2 M. Stat. Rolhstock (8270'). Here a transverse shaft, 25' long, 
leads to an open platform, projecting from the vertical side of the Eiger ; 
the view is, however, limited (Wergis-Thal and Itramen-Thal). A more 
interesting view is obtained from the summit of the Rothstock (8753'), 
reached in •/» hr. by a rocky path protected by iron bars. — Other projected 
stations of the Jungfrau Railway, the entire course of which is under- 
ground, are Eigerwand (Grindelwaldblick; 9405'), Eiemeer (10,355'), Jungfrau- 
Joch (lljOiJO'), and the terminus Elevator (13,428'), which will be connected 
with the summit of the Jungfrau by a lift 242' high, with a winding staircase 
on the outside. The total projected length of the line is V/i M., but the 
death of Herr Guyer-Zeller (d. 1899), its founder, has made the complete 
realization of this bold undertaking somewhat problematical. 

The easy ascent of the Lauberhorn (812C), 1 hr. by a good path (guide- 
post between the station and the Bellevue Hotel), is recommended for its 
magnificent view. The entire chain of the Bernese Alps is in sight. To 
the right of the imposing Wetterhorn are the broad and jagged Berglistock, 
the Mettenberg, Great and Little Schreckhorn, Lauteraarhorn, Eiger, Monch, 
and Jungfrau; still farther to the right, the Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Gross- 
horn, Breithorn, Tschingelhorn, Gspaltenhorn, and Bliimlisalp; in front, 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 19th Edition. 13 



194 IlI.R.48. — Map,p.lS2. GRINDELWALD. Berntte 

the plateau of Miirren, with Lauterbrunnen and the Stanbbach below; 
above are the Schilthorn, the Sulegg-Grat with the Lobhorner (p. 191), and 
farther to the right, the Niesen ; then the Abendberg, Wilderswil, TJnter- 
seen with St. Beatenberg above it; above the Grindelwald valley rises 
the Faulhorn range, with the Schwarzhorn ; and in the distance beyond 
the Great Scheidegg, the Wendenstocke and the Titlis. 

On the N. the Lauberhorn is adjoined by the precipitous Tschuggen 
(8278 1 ; ascent laborious, for experts only) and, farther on, by the "Mann- 
lichen (7695'), another famous point of view, easily ascended in l'/j hr. 
from the Little Scheidegg. From the station a well-made bridle-path 
(5-6' wide ; electric railway contemplated) gradually ascends to the right, 
skirting the slopes of the Lauberhorn and Tschuggen, and affording a 
succession of charming views of Grindelwald and its mountains, to the 
(I hr. 5 min.) B6i. Orindelwald-Rigi (7220'; R. 3i/ 2 -4, B. 11/2, dej. 3>/ 2 , 
D. 4'/2 fr.), on the saddle between the Tschuggen and Mannlichen. The top 
of the latter is reached in 20 min. more. The view of the Eiger, Monch, 
and Jungfrau is inferior to that from the Lauberhorn, owing to the inter- 
vening Tschuggen, but the more distant peaks to the right and left are 
better seen (panorama by G. Studer). — Direct descent to Grindelwald in 
21/2 hrs. by a path that cannot be mistaken, or to Wengen in IV2-2 hrs. by 
a steep path. 

The Guggi Club Hut (7864'; S.A.C), at the foot of the Monch, is 
reached by an interesting glacier tour, for wh : ch both guide and rope 
are necessary (fr3m the Eiger Glacier Station 2-3 hrs. there aid back; 
guide 6 fr., with descent by the Eiger Glacier 8 fr.) The Club Hut is now 
seldom used, the Monch and the Jungfrau being usually ascended from the 
Bergli Hut and the Eiger direct from the Little Scheidegg (lee p. 193). 

The railway and bridle-path (2 l /2 hrs. to Grindelwald) follow 
the slope to the right, immediately behind the Hotel Bellevue. To the 
right, a final view of the Jungfrau. Then over the stony Wergisthal- 
Alp, at the foot of the Eiger, to (8 M.) Alpiglen (5287' ; Hot. des 
Alpes, i /i M. from the station, unpretending, R. 1 72-272) pens. 5 fr.), 
on a commanding terrace. The Wetterhorn becomes more conspicuous, 
with the Mettenberg in front of it; farther on the Schreckhorn is 
seen through the gap between the Mettenberg and the Eiger. The 
line descends steeply into the valley of the Black Lutschine and 
crosses the stream. — IO72M. Grund (3100'), the lower station for 
Grindelwald, whence the train backs out to ascend to the (11 M.) 
principal station of Orindelwald (see below). — "Walkers from 
Grindelwald to the Little Scheidegg cross the Lutschine above the 
station of Grund, and thence follow the bridle-path to the left, which 
crosses the line farther on ; to Alpiglen 2 hrs. , thence to the Scheid- 
egg IV2 hT - 

Grindelwald. — Hotels (all with restaurants and usually seats in the 
open air). "Bear (Messrs Boss), 3 min. from the station, a large new house 
of five stories (250 rooms), but without a lift, R. from S'/j, B. IV2, dej. 31/2, 
D. 5, pens. 10-16 fr. (S. B. G. H.); *Eiger, R. from 5, B. l'/2-2, dej. 3, D. 5, 
pens. 9-14 fr.; "Hot. -Pens. Schonegg, in a quiet situation, 8 min. from the 
station, to the left, with garden, pens. 6-8 fr. ; "Hot. -Pens. Bdrgener, 
R. 2V2-5, B. l'/i, dej. 2V2, D. 3'/ 2 , pens. 6V2-IO fr. ; Hot.-Pens. Grindelwald, 
R. 2-4, B. l ] /4. dej 21,2, D. 31/2, pens. 5-6 fr. — At the station : 'Hot.-Pens. 
Alpenrdhe, R. 2-4, B. l'A, dej. 21/2, D. 31/2. pens. 6-9 fr.; Hot.-Pens. Ober- 
land, R. from l'/2, B. l'/ 4 , I>. li/j fr. ; *H6t.-Pens. Alpina, R. 2-3, B. li/i, 
l>. 3, S. 2'/ 2 , pens. 6-8 fr. ; *H6t. Weisses Krecz, R. from I1/2, B. II/4, 
D. 2'/.-3, pens. 6-8 fr. ; "Hot. de la Gare, R. 2-3, K I1/4, D. 3. pens. 5-8 fr. 
(wine on draught); "Hot.-Pens. National, R. li/ 2 -3, B. I1/4, D. 3, S. 2'j, 
pens. 6-8 fr. ; 'Puns. Wolter, pens. 41/2-6 fr. — Hot. do Glacier, 7-8 min- 



Oberland. GRINDELWALD. Map,p.l82.—III. R.48. 195 

below the Grindelwald station and as far from Grund, R. 2-3, B. I1/4, dej. 
2'/2i D. 3, pens, from 6 fr. ; "Hot. -Pens. Schweizerhof, 2 min. from the 
station, E. 2>/2-3, B. I1/4, dej. 2»/ 2 , D. 31/2, pens. 6-8 fr. ; "Hot.-Pens. Vic- 
toria, in an open situation on the Diirrenberg, 3 /t M. above the station, 
R. 3-5, B. IV2, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 10 fr. ; "Pens. Villa Bellaky, prettily 
situated by the pine-woods, farther to the W., pens. 7-10 fr. — Restaurant 
Bellevue, by the Hot. Eiger, with rooms, beer. — Confectioners : J. Zbdren, 
between the Bear and the Eiger Hotel; Wotter, Blttm, near the rail, station. 

Post Office, near the Eiger Hotel. — Telegraph Office in the Hot. 
Oberland. — English Church (services in the season). 

Guides* Rud. Kaufmann (head-guide), Peter Baumann ('am Guggen'), 
Peter Baumann- Tuftbach, Ulrich and Hans Aimer, Gottfried and Chr. Bohren, 
Peter Kaufmann (two of this name), Hans Kaufmann (two of this name), 
Christ. Kaufmann, Sam and Rud. Baumann, Hani and Rud. Bernet, VI. Rubi, 
Christ.. Fritz, and Sam. Jossi, Joh. Heimann, Peter, Sam., and Hans Brawand, 
Joh., Christ., and Peter Burgener, etc. — Good ice-axes at Ch. Schenk's. 

Grindelwald (3415' at the station ; 3468' at the church ; pop. 
3342), properly Oydisdorf, a large village in a sheltered and healthy 
situation, almost entirely rebuilt since the flre of 1892, is an excellent 
starting-point for excursions, and a favourite summer and winter 
resort. Three gigantic mountains bound the valley on the S. : the 
Eiger (13,040'), the Mettenberg (10,193'), which forms the base 
of the Schreckhorn, and the beautiful three-peaked Wetterhorn 
(12,150'), the characteristic feature of the entirelandscape. Between 
the Wetterhorn and the Mettenberg descends the Upper Grindelwald 
Glacier, and between the Mettenberg and the Eiger the Lower 
Grindelwald Glacier. These glaciers feed the Black Liitschine. — 
Beautiful walks may be taken to the AMfluh (4680' ; iy 2 or.), to the 
Lampenegg and the Abbach Fall (1^4 hr.), to the Furenweid (4600'; 
1 hr.), and to other points. 

Most visitors are content with a visit to the *TJpper Glacier (a 
walk, there and back, of 2*/2 nrs - ; one-horse carr. there and back 
10 fr., two-horse 18 fr., and gratuity). From the station we follow 
the principal street, passing the (10 min.) Church, and beyond the 
school-house, decorated with mottoes, we take the road ascending 
gently to the left (to the right is the shorter hut more fatiguing 
footpath). The road finally passes the Hallerstein, a granite boulder 
with an inscription in memory of Dr. A. Sailer of Burgdorf, who 
perished on the Lauteraar Glacier in 1880, and leads to the (8/4 hr.) 
mtelWetterhorn (4040'; R. ^-1% pens.4</ 2 -6 fr. ; well spoken of). 
From the hotel the bridle-path goes on to the left to the Great 
Scheidegg (p. 206), while a footpath to the right descends across 
the Liitschine, and leads in 10 min. to the glacier. The artificially 
hewn Ice Grotto (adm. free; fee to the keeper) is the finest near 
Grindelwald. 

A beautiful way back to Grindelwald is afforded by the so-called 
' Terrassen- Weg\ This diverges from the road to the right beyond the 
fourth bridge, skirts the slope to the houses of Steinbillen, passes the 
H6tel Victoria and Villa Bellary and leads to the hamlet of Dufibach, whence 
we descend to the left to the (1 hr.) station. — Another way back (guide, 
6 fr., not essential) is by a path ascending the left moraine to the 
Chalet Milchbach (4330' ; rfmts. ; visible from below), which affords a 
good view of the ice-fall. The O/4 hr.) path (finger-posts) then enters the 

13* 



196 III. R. 48. — Map,p. 182. GRINDELWALD. Bernese 

wood to the right, passing between the Mettenherg and the HaUfluh, and 
descends on the left bank of the Liitschine, past the hamlet of Auf der 
Suit, to the bridge (2915') near the saw-mill mentioned below, and back 
to (174 hr.) Grindelwald. — From the Chalet Milchbach climbers may, 
by means of ladders (guide 1 fr.), ascend to the Wetterhorn path(comp. 
p. 197), and pass through the Milchbach Gorge to the ( 3 /< hr.) edge of the 
glacier above the ice-fall (about 5250'; fine survey of the glacier). 

A narrow, and in wet weather muddy, path leads to the E. from the 
Hotel Wetterhorn, past the 'Camera Obscura' and the small pavilion, 
through shrubs and pines, to (20 min.) the *Eisboden ('iBchbode' ; 4400'), 
a beautiful pasture close to the base of the Wetterhorn, affording a superb 
survey of the Upper Grindelwald Glacier, the Mettenberg, the Schreck- 
hbrner, the Eiger, and the Grindelwald Valley. 

The Lower Glacier has so receded that an ascent to the Baregg 
will alone repay the visitor (see below ; guide, 7 fr., needless for 
moderately experienced walkers ; horse to the Weissenfiuh, */2 ^ r - 
below the Baregg, 10 fr., not advisable), while the only other in- 
teresting point is the imposing Gorge of the Liitschine. Bridle-paths, 
above the Hotel Eiger, above the former Eagle Hotel, and between 
the church and the school-house, descend to the right to the 
(25 min.) bridge (2915') spanning the branch of the Liitschine that 
issues from the upper glacier. On the opposite bank, on which 
is a saw-mill, the path straight on ascends to the Baregg, while 
we keep to the right at the same level, and finally, ascending a 
little, cross a wooden bridge over the discharge of the glacier to a 
C/4 hr.) refreshment-hut at the entrance of the Oorge of the Lut- 
schine, to which wooden galleries and steps afford access (50 c). 
At the upper end is a high waterfall. We may now ascend the left 
(W.) lateral moraine to the (!/ 2 hr.) Ice Orotto (230' long) hewn 
into the glacier ; or we may follow the right bank for 80 paces from 
the wooden bridge, and then ascend the right lateral moraine to the 
Baregg path. [The route over the glacier from the ice-grotto to 
the Lower Eismeer is not advisable, and should in no case be at- 
tempted without a guide; fee 10 fr.] On this latter ascent we pass 
(*/4 hr.) a refreshment-hut, by a bridge high above the gorge (50c), 
and (Y4 hr. more) a second hut, with another Ice Orotto near it 
(50 c). — From the bridge and saw-mill mentioned above a path 
ascends along steep rocky slopes to (lyg-l^hr.) the Chalet Baregg 
(5410'), which commands the *Lower Eismeer ('sea of ice'), the 
large basin in which the glacier accumulates before it descends to 
the valley. Above it rise the Zasenberghorn, Grindelwalder Griin- 
horn, Grindelwalder Fiescherhorner, Fieschergrat, and Eiger. A 
rocky knoll, 20 min. farther on, affords a more complete view. 

A flight of wooden steps, 5 min. from the chalet, descends to the edge 
of the 'Eismeer'. The glacier may be crossed, with guide (from Grindel- 
wald, 9 fr.), to (1 hr.) the Zdtenberg (6075'), on the grassy slopes of which 
sheep are pastured in summer. — The ascent of the "Zasenberghorn 
(7687'; magnificent survey) takes I'/s hr. from the Zaeenberg (guide 12 fr.). 
On every side tower huge and wild masses of ice, and the view is bounded 
by the imposing peaks of the Eiger, Schreckhorner, Fiescherhorner, etc. 
Experts may now cross the Fiescherfirn, descend the Ealli by a steep path, and 
return to the Baregg (7-8 hrs. ; a comparatively easy round ; guide 20 fr.). 



Oberland. GRINDELWALD. Map, p. 182. — III. R. 48. 197 

The Mettenberg (Mittelberg, 10,193' ; 7 hrs. from Grindelwald, by the 
Baregg ; guide 30 fr.) commands an imposing view of the Wetterhorn, 
Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn, and the Upper Grindelwald Glacier, hut is 
seldom ascended. 

The favourite ascent is that of the 'Wetterhorn (12,150' ; 10-11 hrs. ; 
guide 60, porter 45 fr.), first scaled in 1844. The ascent, now made almost 
daily in fine summer weather, requires perseverance and a steady head. 
From the Chalet Milchbach by the ladders to the upper glacier, see p. 196. 
We cross the glacier to the Schlupf and traverse (new path) the precipitous 
Ziebachsplatten, with numerous brooks in wet weather, to the Gleckstein 
Club Hut (7670'; 4V2-5 hrs. from Grindelwald; guide 20 fr.), where the night 
is spent. Thence over the Krinne-Firn and by a steep ascent to the snow- 
covered Wettersattel or Satteli (11,615'), between the Mittelhorn (12,165') and 
the Vordere Wetterhorn or Hasle-Jungfrau (12,150'), and to the left to the top 
of the latter, 5-6 hrs. The Rosenhorn (12,110'), the third peak, is better 
ascended from the Dossen Hut (p. 206). Descent to the Dossen Hut (and 
Rosenlaui or Innertkirchen) , see pp. 206, 207 (guide from Grindelwald, 
70 or 80 fr.). — From the Gleckstein Hut over the Lauteraar-Sattel to the 
Grimsel, see below ; over the Rosenegg to the Dossen Hut, see p. 206: over 
the Bergli-Joch to the Gauli Hut, see p. 208. — The Eerglistock (12,000'), to 
the right of the Bergli-Joch (5Vs-6 hrs. from the Gleckstein Hut; guide 
70 fr.), via the Grindelwaldfim, commands a superb view. 

Ascent of the Jungfrau, p. 192; Finsteraarhorn (from the Schwarzegg 
Club Hut via. the Agassiz-joch in 9-10 hrs., dangerous as a descent on 
account of falling stones), p. 210. — Gross-Schreckhorn (13,385'; from the 
Schwarzegg Club Hut 8 hrs.; guide 80 fr.), ascended for the first time by 
Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1861, very difficult. — Gross-Lauteraarhorn (13,266'; 
guide 80 fr.), from the Schwarzegg Club Hut in 8'/4 hrs., also very difficult. 
— Klein-Schreckhorn (11,475'), from the Schwarzegg Club Hut in 5-6 hrs., 
interesting and for expert climbers not difficult (guide 50 fr.). — Mbnch 
(13,465'; first scaled by Dr. Porges of Vienna in 1857), ascended either from 
the Bergli Hut by the S.E. arete in 5-6 hrs. (guide 70 fr., to Eggishorn 
90 fr.), or from the Guggi Hut (p. 194) by the N. side in 8-9 hrs. (very 
difficult and not always feasible ; guide 80 fr., to Eggishorn 90 fr.). — 
Eiger (13,040'; first ascended by Mr. Chas. Barrington in 1858), from the 
Little Scheidegg by the Eiger Glacier and up the W. arete, 7-8 hrs., or 
from the Bergli Hut, 6-7 hrs., difficult but very fine (guide 70 fr.). — 
Gross-Fiescherhorn (13,285'), from the Bergli Hut by the Monch-Joch and 
Fiescher-Sattel, between the Grosse and Hintere Fiescherhorn, in 6 hrs. 
(guide 70 fr.), also difficult. All these are for thorough experts only. 

Passes. To the Grimsel Hospice over the *Strahlegg (10,995' ; 14 hrs.; 
guide, 40 fr., porter 30 fr.), a grand but toilsome route. The night is passed 
in the Schwarzegg Club Hut (8265'), on the Upper Eismeer, 5 hrs. from 
Grindelwald. Thence a steep ascent over ice and rock to the (3 hrs.) pass, 
lying between the Gross-Lauleraarhom and the Strahlegghorner ; descent 
(steep and sometimes trying) over the ( 3 /rl hr.) Strahleggfirn and the 
Finsteraar and Unteraar Glaciers to the (6 hrs.) Grimsel Hospice (p. 209), 
or via the medial moraine of the Unteraar Glacier to the (4 hrs.) Pavilion 
Dollfus. In the reverse direction the route is less trying and more in- 
teresting (from the Pavilion Dollfus to the Strahlegg 5 hrs. , thence to 
Grindelwald 6 hrs.). — Over the Finsteraar-Joch (11,025'; 15-16 hrs.; guide 
40 fr.), between the Strahlegghorner and the Agassizhorn, very trying, 
with splendid views of the Finsteraarhorn, etc. — Over the Lauteraar- 
Sattel (10,355'; 14-15 hrs.; guide 50 fr.), between the Schreckhbrner and 
the Berglistock, fatiguing, but usually without serious difficulty to profi- 
cients. The night is spent in the (5 hrs.) Gleck stein- Hiitte (see above) ; thence 
we ascend the Upper Grindelwald-Firn in 5 hrs. to the pass, which affords 
a grand survey of the Gross-Schreckhorn, Lauteraarhorn, etc. We then 
descend a steep snow-slope to the Lauteraarfirn (sometimes guarded by a 
wide 'Bergschrund' or chasm) and the (3 hrs.) Pavilion Dollfus (p. 210). 

Passes from Grindelwald to the Eggishorn (p. 342), all difficult 
and for experts only, with able guides. The Jungfrau-Joch (11,09c; guide 



1 98 111. B.49. — Map, p. 182. FAULHORN. Bernete 

90 fr.), between the Jungfrau and Monch, from the Little Scheidegg to the 
Eggisborn Hotel in 19 hrs., via. the Guggi Glacier, is very difficult and 
dangerons. — The passage of the Mbnchjoch (11,385'; guide 60 fr.), 18 hrs. 
from Grindelwald to the Eggishorn Hotel, is facilitated by spending a 
night in the Bergli-Hiltte (see below), or when the journey is made in the 
reverse direction, in the Concordia Pavilion (p. 342). This is relatively 
the easiest and also the most frequented of these passes, but it is also 
difficult and should not be attempted except when the snow is in good 
order. From the Baregg we cross the Lower Eismeer to the opposite 
moraine, and ascend the precipitous Kalli for 2>/2 hrs. ; then cross the 
much crevassed Grindelwald- Fiescher Glacier to the (3 hrs. ; 8-9 hrs. from 
Grindelwald; guide 30 fr.) Bergli Club Hut (10,825'), commanding a grand 
though not extensive view of the Fiescherwand, Schreckhorner, Eiger, etc. 
From the hut a steep climb of I-IV2 hr. over rock and ice leads to the 
Lower Mbnchjoch (11,810'). This really consists of two passes, one to the 
E. (11,680') between the Walcherhorn and the point marked 3630' on the 
Siegfried Map, the other to the W. (11,810'), between points 3630' and 3687'. 
We descend either from the E. pass over the wide Ewig-Schneefeld to the 
Great Aletsch Glacier and (5-6 hrs.) the Eggishorn Hotel (p. 342); or from the 
W. pass, via p/4 hr.) the Upper Mbnchjoch (11,8700, between the Monch 
and Trugberg, to the Jungfraufirn (p. 192) and down to the Great Aletsch 
Glacier (the two routes unite at the Concordia Pavilion). — The Eiger-Joch 
(11,875'; guide 90 fr.), between the Eiger and Monch, 19 hrs. from the 
Little Scheidegg to the Eggishorn, and the Fiescher-Joch or Ochsen-Joch 
(about 12,630'), to the S.E. of the Kleine Fiescherhorn or Ocht (12,812'), 
14-15 hrs. from the Schwarzegg Club Hut to the Eggishorn Hotel, are both 
very toilsome and difficult. 

49. The Faulhorn. 

Guide (unnecessary) : from Grindelwald and back 10, if a night be spent 
at the top 13 fr.; from the Schynige Platte 8, with descent to Grindelwald 16, 
or via the Great Scheidegg to Meiringen or Innertkirchen 25 fr. — Chair. 
Porters 6 fr. each ; if they pass the night on the top, 12 fr. (three generally 
suffice; a bargain should be made beforehand). — Horse from Grindelwald 
and back 20 (or with one night out, 25) fr. ; to the top and via the Great 
Scheidegg to Meiringen or Innertkirchen 40 fr. ; from the Schynige Platte 
to the top 20 fr. ; from Meiringen to the Faulhorn in one day 30 fr., to 
the Faulhorn and Grindelwald 36 fr. — *Inn on the summit (R. 5, 
L. & A. I1/2, B. 2"A, D. 5 fr.). 

The Taulhorn (8803'), rising between the Lake of Brienz and 
the valley of Grindelwald, and composed of friable, calcareous schist 
(foul, 'rotten'), affords a closer survey than the Rigi of the giants 
of the Bernese Oberland (see Panorama). To the N . , at our feet, lies 
the Lake of Brienz, with its mountains, from the Augstmatthorn to 
the Rothhorn ; part of Lake Thun, with the Niesen and Stockhorn, 
is also visible; to the N.E. are parts of the Lakes of Lucerne and 
Zug, withPilatus and the Rigi; then Lakes Morat and Neuchatel. 

From Grindelwald to the Faulhorn (5 hrs. ; descent 3 , /2' ir8 -)- 
From the Bear Hotel we cross the road and ascend, straight between 
the hotel-stables and the new chalet ; after 3 min., to the right (the 
path to the left leads to Hot. Victoria, p. 195); 10 min., at the 
intersection of the 'Terrassen-Weg' (p. 195), straight on; 5 min., 
to the right (path to the left to be avoided). The footpath unites 
in about 10 min. mom with the bridle-path that begins opposite 
the former Eagle Hotel (ascent thence to this point ^hr.). We now 



Jungfrau 

4167 Silberhorn 

Aletschhorn 3705 Grosshot 

4198 Schneehorn 3765 

Mil. 



Lauterbrunnen 

Breithorn 

3779 

Tschingelhorn 



.. n u .. „ Ammertenhorn 

Mutthorn Doldenhom 

mm ,(-4.7 36M S*»almem 

,. ,. d,~ ,• , chilthorn Wlldstrubel Diablerets 2785 

3437 3669 2 97i 



Morgenberghorn 
2251 




Wirtshausgebaude auf dem Faulhorn 



Bussalp 



LauterbrunnenScheidegg Tschuggen 2S23 

2069 Lauberhorn2475 



annlichen 2345 



Eisenfluh 



FAM0MMCA r©m FATO1I 



o (2683 m.) 



Oberland. PAULHORN. Map,p.l82. — 1II.R.49. 199 

follow the main path, partly through wood. After 35 min., on the 
Hertenbuhl pasture (5157'), the path turns sharply to the left, 
ascending past a little cabaret into (10 min.) wood; 10 min., to 
the right, past a small pond; 20 min., a gate; 25 min., Waldspitz 
(6200'; Hot.-Pens. Alpenrose, unpretending, R. 2-3, pens, from 
5 ft.), with a splendid view. This point is nearly halfway. Farther on 
(20 min.), to the left, is a fall of the Miihlebach, which we cross near 
the upper chalets of the Bach-Alp (6496'). The path keeps to the 
left at the fork 10 min. farther on, crosses the Weissbach, , and 
ascends to the (35 min.) Bach-See (7428'), in a stony basin, bounded 
on the left by the Rothihorn (9052') and Simelihom (9030'), and on 
the right by the Ritzengratli (8282'). (By the stone hut the path for 
those descending to the Scheidegg diverges to the left, see below.) 
The top of the Faulhorn is now in view. The path, indicated by 
stakes, ascends rapidly for nearly 1 hr. over a stony chaos. Higher 
up, on the Gassenboden, we pass another stone hut (Alpine horn), 
cross the nearly level pastures at the foot of the peak, and reach the 
top by a zigzag path in ^4 hr. more. 

For the Retdkn to Gkindelwald (3 hrs.) pedestrians may take the 
path by the Buss- Alp, which diverges to the right at the stone hut on 
the Gassenboden. To the W. of the upper chalets rises the Burg (7247'), 
which is sometimes ascended from Grindelwald direct in 4 hrs. for the 
sake of the view (care must be taken to avoid the precipices on the S. 
side ; guide 10 fr.). 

From the Schynige Platte to the Faulhorn (4 hrs. ; descent 

3 hrs. ; guide, unnecessary, 8 ft.). The picturesque bridle-path, 
the beginning of which is indicated by a finger-post below the 
station (p. 182), first crosses the Iselten-Alp, below the steep Ober- 
berghorn (6791'). Skirting theS. slopes of the Laucherhorn (8333'), 
we come to (1 hr.) a gate, and traverse the rocky debris of the 
Biitschi, beyond which (20 min.), at the foot of the Sagishorner, a 
footpath descends along the brook to the right. (In descending, 
therefore, we here keep to the right, with the hotel on the Schynige 
Platte in sight, and the Geisshorn and Gummihorn above it.) "We 
turn to the left and cross (l'/4 hr. from the Schynige Platte) the 
watershed of the Egg (6915'; small refuge-hut), whence the new 
bridle-path (red way-marks), to the right, gradually ascends on 
the N. slope of the Sagisgrat. Farther on, high above the Sagisthal 
Lake (6030'), the path rounds the N.E. end of the Sagisgrat to its S. 
side, then skirts the rocky cauldron of the Weite Thai, and ascends 
the N. flank of the Winteregg (8265'). 1 hr. Refuge Hut (poor); 
beautiful view of the Bliimlisalp and its neighbours. The path now 
ascends rapidly to (74 hr.) a new refuge hut. It then crosses the 
Faulegg (8445'), where the old road from the Sagisthal Lake joins 
it on the left, and reaches (1 hr.) the top of the Faulhorn. 

From the Faulhorn to the Great Scheidegg (3 hrs.; ascent 

4 hrs.; guide, not indispensable, 8 fr.). The path diverges to 
the left from the Grindelwald path near the ( 3 / 4 hr.) hut at the 



200 III. R. 50. - Map, p. /Si?. MEIRINGEN. Bernese 

S.E. end of the Bach-See (p. 199), traverses the stony slopes of the 
Ritzengratli, and is nearly level for some distance ; '/2 h r -i a gate 
between the Bach- Alp and the Widderfeld-Alp ; 12 min., we cross 
the ridge of the Langenbalm-Egg, with a magnificent view from the 
turfy knoll (7175') 5 min. to the S. Farther on we traverse the pastures 
of the Obere Orindel-Alp, skirting the left slope and keeping the 
general direction of the conspicuous Scheidegg Inn (to the left of 
the Wetterhorn). After crossing several arms of the Bergelbach, we 
reach the (50 min.) upper chalets of the Orindel-Alp (6410'). At 
(t/ihr.) a gate we ascend to the right on this side of the fence, pass 
through the next gate (12 min.), and make for the top of a hill; 
8 min., Scheidegg Inn (p. 206). 

In ascending from the Scheidegg, we must be careful not to turn to 
the left at the bridge over the Bergelbach ; farther on, where the path is 
lost on the pastures, we again avoid turning to the left, but follow a 
direction parallel with a long enclosure lying a little to the left, and make 
for the slope of the mountain, at the foot of which the path is regained. 

The view from the Faulhorn is partially intercepted by the neigh- 
bouring group of the Simelihorn (90300 and the Rothihorn (905?/) , rising 
between the Finsteraarhorn and the Schreckhorn, which conceals part of 
the Alpine chain and the valley of Grindelwald. The Rothihorn, from 
which the magnificent view is uninterrupted, is ascended from the Bach- 
See in I1/2 hr. (guide advisable; from the Faulhorn 5 fr., from Grindel- 
wald 15 fr.). 

The view is still grander and more extensive from the ; Schwarzhorn 
(9610'), which, with the Wildgerst (9490'), intercepts the view from the Faul- 
horn on the E. side. (The lakes of Lungern, Sarnen, Alpnach, and Kiissnacht 
are visible hence, all lying in the same line.) The ascent is made from 
the Faulhorn in 41/2 hrs. ; from the Great Scheidegg by the Orindel-Alp and 
the Krinnenboden in 3 hrs. ; from the Hotel Schwarzwaldgletscher (p. 206) 
in 3'/* hrs.; or from Axalp (p. 204) in 5 1 /™ hrs. (guide 12 fr.). 

50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz. 

From Meiringen to Brienz (8 M.) Railway in 25 min. (fares 2 fr. 60, 1 fr. 
95, 80 c). — From Brienz (station) to Interlaken Steamboat 7 times daily in 
1 hr. (fares 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 40 c). — General season tickets fur the lakes 
of Thun and Brienz, see p. 173. 

Meiringen. — Hotels. *Hotel do Sauvage (Zum Wildenmann), 5 min. 
from the station (omnibus), with garden, R. 4-8, dt ; j. 3'/i, D. 5, pens. 
9-15 fr. ; 'Hot. de l'Odrs, R. 2-5, B. IV*, dej. 2'/ 2 , D. 31/2, pens. 6-9 fr.; 
"Coueosne, 3 inin. from the station, R. 2-3V2, B. lVz, D. 4, S. 21/2-3 fr. ; 
"Hot. Brunig, R. 2-4, B. li/ 4 , dej. 21/2-3, D. 31/2, pens. from6'/2fr.; *H6t.- 
Pens. Oberland, R. 2-4, B. IV2, D. 31/2, S. 3, pens, from 6 fr. ; *H6t.-Pens. 
Anderegg, R. 1V2-2, B. 1, pens. 5 fr. ; Hot. -Restaurant Victoria, R. 
11/2-2 fr., B. 1 fr. 20 c, D. li/ 2 -2i/ 2 fr. ; Hot. de la Gare, Kirchga«se 17, 
R. 2 fr., well spoken of. In the town: *Meiringer Hop, Kirchgasse, R. 2-3, 
B. l'/4, D. 3, pens. 5-7 fr. ; *Croix Blanche, R. 2-2i/ 2 , B. li/ 4 , D. 2i/ 2 , S. 2, 
pens. 5-7 fr. ; Post, in the main street, R. 2-3, B. li/ 4 , D. 2-3 fr. ; "Adlkk, 
unpretending, R. li/ 2 -2. B. 1, D. li/ 2 -2i/ 2 fr. ; "Lowe, with baths, E. P/i-V/i, 
pins. 5-7 IV. ; "Hirsch, i/ 2 M. from the station, R. IV2-21/2, B. I1/4, D. 3, 
S. 21/2, pens. 5-6 fr. — -Grand-Hotel des Alpes, with grounds, R. 3-7, 
dej. 3-31/2, D. 4-5, puns. 8-14 fr. ; ^Hotel-Pension Reichenbach, R. 2-4, 
B.' 11/2, dej. 21/2-3, D. 3i/ 4 -4, pen.-. 6-9 fr., these two beyond the Aare, 
neiir the station of the Reichenbach calde-tramway, 1 M. from Meirinpen 
(omnibus in 8 min.. 20 c). Furnished ruonis at Abplanalp-Bahner'Sj Post- 
;_ r asse, near the station, etc. 



Oberland. MEIRINGEN. Map, p. 182. — III. R. 50. 201 

Restaurants in the hotels ; Brauerei Stein, with garden ; good beer at 
the Post (see p. 200). 

English Church, in the garden of the Hotel du Sauvage. 

Guides. Melchior, Joh., and Peter Anderegg, Olrich Fuhrer, Joh. and 
Albert Jaun, Joh Ko'hler Senr., Nik. and Melchior Kohler, Kaspar Moor, 
Heinrich Rieder, Joh. and Andreat Stahli, Balth. Tdnnler, Andreas and Kaspar 
Winterberger, Andreas and Melchior Zenger, etc. 

Meiringen (1968'; pop. 3064), the principal station on the 
Briinig Railway (R. 37), is the chief village of the Hasli-Thal, 
the inhabitants of which, according to tradition, immigrated with 
the Schwyzers from Scandinavia. The village, almost entirely 
burned down in 1891, but since rebuilt in an improved style, lies 
on the right bank of the Aare, in a wide valley, surrounded by 
wooded mountains, above which rise several snowy peaks. To the 
S. appear the Beiehenbach Falls (see below), with the snow-fields of 
the Wellhorn and the Rosenlaui Glacier above them. The Miihle- 
bach, Alpbach, and Dorfbach, descending from the Hasleberg to the 
N. of the village, form considerable falls (in the season the Alpbach 
Falls are illuminated at 9 p.m. at the cost of the community). The 
massive detached church-tower of Meiringen originally belonged to 
a castle. Both tower and church have repeatedly been unearthed 
from the debris which the Alpbach used to deposit before its canali- 
sation. Pleasant shady walks beyond the church. Wood-carving is 
extensively practised here. — To the E. of the village rises the 
ruined tower of Besti. 

The 'Gorge of the Aare (Aareschhtcht, Aarelamm ; 1 M. from the stations 
omnibus from the station 50 c, from the cable-tramway 30 c; carr. there 
and hack, with stay of 1 hr., 4 fr., with life hr.'s stay, and back from the 
Lammi Inn, 5 fr., with return from the E. end of the gorge, 7 fr. ; two- 
horse 7, 8, and 12 fr.) is the chief point of interest near Meiringen, next 
to the Reichenbach Falls. We follow the main road to beyond the Hirsch, 
diverge to the right, cross the 0/2 M.) Willigen Brilcke (p. 207), and take 
the road to the left (that to the right leading to the Grand Hot. des Alpes, 
p. 200). At the entrance to the gorge is a Restaurant, where tickets (80 c.) 
are obtained. The wild and romantic rocky gorge, which carries the Aare 
through the Kirchet (p. 207), is about l'/4 M. long, and has been made 
accessible by means of an iron gallery. After 10 min. we pass a pretty 
waterfall on the left. Hence we reach the head of the gorge in 20 min., 
which is on the S. side of the Kirchet, on the Innertkirchen road (p. 207). 
On the way is an iron foot-bridge crossing to the opposite bank and 
leading to a rocky basin (no exit). We return the same way, or we ascend 
by a wooden flight of steps , through the 'Finstere Schlucht' to (}/i hr.) 
the Lammi Inn, on the road over the Kirchet, by which we regain the 
Willigen-Briicke in 25 minutes. — A finger-post, 2 min. from the Lammi 
Inn, indicates the way to the upper Reichenbach Fall PA hr. ; comp. p. 205). 

From the Grand Hotel des Alpes an electric funicular railway runs 
every 20 min. in 10 min. to the "Upper Beiehenbach Fall (fare 1 fr., 
down 'A, there and back l ! /2 fr). The line (V2 M. long; maximum 
gradient 60:100) crosses the Reichenbach below the central fall and ends 
on the left side of the fine upper fall, which descends in one huge leap 
into a deep rocky basin. On summer evenings the fall is illuminated by 
large electric rellectors. A new footpath leads from the upper station 
to the hut containing the refleclors, vertically above the upper fall, and 
to the (20 min.) bridge over the Reichenbach near the Zwirgi Inn (p. 205). 
— Walkers from the Hot. Reichenbach follow the footpath 0/2 hr. ; guide 
posts), which is repeatedly crossed by the funicular railway, as far as 



202 I1J.R. 50. — Maps,pp. 1 10, 182. BRIENZ. Bernese 

the road below the Schwendi Hotel (see below; ^fehr. to the upper fall); 
or (better) they follow the new road via (I M.) Willigen (p. 205) to the (U/2 M.) 
Hil.-Pens. Schwendi (carr. to this point 7, with two horses 14 fr.), and take 
the path to the right, which leads to (6 min.) the pavilion (rfmts.) on the 
right side of the upper fall. 

About 1 II. to the N. of Meiringen (good though steep road) is the 
Gorge of the Alpbach (adm. 80 c, for a party 40 c. each), which begins 
near a refreshment -stall, above both the falls visible frum the valley. 
Through the gorge a rocky path, with numerous steps, ascends to the 
Hasleberg, turning to the right at the top and traversing meadows to the 
(25 min.) • Hdtel- Pension Alpbach ('2854' ; E. 1 1/2-3, D. 21/4, S. 2, pens. 5-8 fr. I, 
with a magnificent view of the Wetterhorn group and the Hasli-Thal (also 
reached ia V2 nr - by the above-mentioned road from the refreshment-stall). 
About l l /2 M. farther to the E., in Reuti (3150'), are the Httel-Pension Kohler 
(pens. 4Va-6 fr.) and the Pension von Bergen. — About 3 M. to the N.W. 
of the Hot. Alpbach (good path by Golderen and Weisstanne or Wasser- 
tcendi ; direct road from Meiringen 4>/2 M., one-horse carriage 9, two-horse 
16 fr.) lies the village of Hohfluh (3443'; Htt.-Pens. Hohfluh, 5-7 fr.; Pens. 
Alpenruh, 4>/2-6 fr. ; Pens. TUnnler, 4-4>/2 fr.), another fine point of view, 
visited as a health-resort. Numerous pleasant excursions : to the Schoren- 
Alp (4115'; IV2 hr.); Gieoel (6680'; 21/2 hrs. ; see p. 149); "Planplatte (7340'; 
interesting), ascent by the Magis-Alp in 4 hrs., descent by the Gummen- 
Alp, 3 hrs. From Hohfluh to Briinig, see p. 149. — The "Hohenstollen 
(8150'; splendid view; panorama by Stierlin) maybe ascended from Hoh- 
fluh by the Balis-Alp in 4 hrs. (guide 5 fr.), or from the Hot. Alpbach 
direct in 5 hrs. (guide 7 fr. ; from Meiringen 10 fr.), via the Magis-Alp and 
the Schwarzenfluh. Descent to Melchsee ■ Frutt , see p. 147. — Over the 
Weit Ries to Melchsee-Frutt, see p. 147. 

The train skirts the right bank of the canalized Aare. The 
beautiful Oltschibach and other cascades fall from cliffs on the left. 
Beyond (5 M.) Brienzwiler (Restaurant Balmhof), where it crosses 
the Briinig road, the line skirts the geologically interesting BaUen- 
berg (2385'), then bends to the right, and follows the bank of Lake 
Brienz, by Kienholz, a village overwhelmed by a mud-stream of the 
Lammbach in 1896 and 1897, to — 

8 M. Brienz. — The Station is at Tracht, to the E. of Brienz, close 
to the station of the Rothhorn Railway and the Steamboat Pier. Most of the 
steamers also touch near the Hot. de TOurs in Brienz. — Hotels. Croix 
Blanche, at Tracht, near the stations, R. 2-4, B. IV4, D. 3-3V2, pens. 6-8 fr. ; 
Hotel de l'Ooks (Bar), i/s M. from the stations, with a terrace on the 
lake, R. 2-3V2. B. l'/i, D. 3, pens. 5-8 fr. ; Schutzen, to the E. of the stations, 
plain. — English Church Service in summer (at the Hot. de l'Ours). 

The village of Brienz (2584 inhab.), adjoined on the E. by Tracht, 
stretches for l^M. along the bank of the Lake of Brienz, backed by 
green pastures dotted with fruit-trees, above which rises the Brienzer 
Orat, whence descend the falls of the Trachtbach and the Muhlbach. 
Brienz is the centre of the Oberland wood-carving, which here em- 
ploys about 600 persons, and of which the Industrie-Halle, near the 
Bear Hotel, contains good specimens. The Wood Carving School de- 
serves a visit. On a hill about 1 / i M. farther to the W. is the Church, 
commanding the valley of Meiringen, with the Sustenhorner in the 
background, the Faulhorn chain, Sulegg, Morgenberghorn, etc. 

The 'Brienzer Rothhorn (7715'), the highest peak of the Brienzer Grat, 
is a famous point of view. Rack-and-Pinion Railway (opened in 1892) 
in 173 hr. (up 8 fr., down 4 fr., there and back 10 fr., party of 6, 8 fr. 
each). This line (4 3 /< M. long; maximum gradient 25: 100) ascends through 
luxuriant meadows, soon affording a view of the Lake of Brienz and 



Oberland. GIESSBACH. Map, p. 182.— III. R. 50. 203 

the Schwarzhorn range. Beyond the bridge across the Trachtbach the 
ascent becomes steeper; the line approaches the MUhlbach, turns to the 
right by means of the short Schwarzfluh Tunnel, and mounts to the (l'/3 M.) 
station of Geldried (3360'). To the right we overlook the valley ofMeiringen 
and the Sustenhorner. Describing a large loop, we pass through the 
Slockisgraben Tunnel and the five tunnels of the Planalpfluh to the (2 M.) 
station Hausstadt (4415'; rfmts.), in view of the Bliimlisalp, Doldenhorn, 
and Wildstrubel. We then follow the left, and, farther up, the right, bank 
of the Muhlbach, traverse the pastures of the Planalp, pass the chalets 
of Miltehtajfel (5023') , and beyond the Kuhmalt Tunnel (100 yds.) , reach 
the (3'/s M.) watering-station of Oberstaffel (5980'). Finally the line sweeps 
round the uppermost valley, bends back by means of the two Schonegg 
Tunnels, and reaches its terminus at (4 3 /4 M.) station Rothhorn-Kulm (7388'), 
3 min. below the *H6tel Rothhorn-Kulm (7445'; E. 31/2, B. I1/2, D. 31/2 fr.j 
and 20 min. below the summit (good path), on which a triangular stone 
marks the contact of the cantons of Bern, Lucerne, and Unterwalden. 
The 'View (panorama at the hotel ; best in the morning and evening) 
vies in extent and picturesque charm with that from the Rigi. The 
prospect embraces the chain of the Uri, Engelberg, and Bernese Alps, 
with the Lake of Brienz in the foreground ; the Hasli-Thal from Meiringen 
nearly to the Grimsel; on the other side the small Ey-See, the Lake of 
Sarnen, a considerable part of the Lake of Lucerne with the Rigi, part 
of the Lake of Zug, and a long strip of the Lake of Neuchatel. — From 
the Rothhorn to Oisail, see p. 148 ; via, Sttrenberg and Fliihli to Schilpf- 
heim, see p. 155. 

The Lake of Brienz (1857'), 83/ 4 M.long, and li/ 4 -li/ 2 M. wide, 
500' deep near the Giessbach and 860' near Oberried, lies 20' higher 
than the Lake of Thun. It is enclosed by lofty wooded rocks and 
mountains. A beautiful road skirts its N. bank (from Brienz to Inter- 
laken, 10^2 M. ; one-horse carr. 8-10 fr.). To the S.E., in the back- 
ground, are the snow-clad Sustenhorner, to the right of which are 
the Thierberge. The steamboat crosses the lake to the (10 min.) — 

Giessbach. — From the landing-place (restaurant) we may walk to the 
terrace opposite the falls by a broad road in 20 min., or ascend by the 
Cable Tramway (380' long ; gradient 28 : 100) in 6 min. (there and back 1 fr.). 

Hotels. "Hotel Giessbach (2360' above the sea), a large establishment, 
with a restaurant on the terrace opposite the falls, and a pension (see below), 
R. 3-6, B. 11/2, dej.372, D. 41/2, S. 3>/2, pens. 10-15 fr. ; illumination of the 
falls 1 fr. (for the first evening only), music 2 fr. per week ; post, telegraph, 
telephone, and railway ticket office. Connected with the hotel by a 
covered promenade is the Pensionshaut (the old hotel; pens. 7Vj-i2fr.), 
containing a well-equipped hydropathic, with electric baths. Englith Church 
Service at the hotel. — "Hotel Beau-Site, y« M. higher, less pretentious, 
R. 2-3, B. 1, D. 3, S. 21/2, pens, from 6fr. 

The *Oiessbach is one of the prettiest and most popular spots 
in the Bernese Oberland. The stream, copious at all seasons, rises 
on the N. slope of the Schwarzhorn (p. 200), and on its way to the 
Lake of Brienz, 980' below, forms seven cascades falling from rock 
to rock, and framed in dark-green foliage. Only the lowest fall is 
seen from the steamer; the terrace in front of the hotel affords a 
complete view. The falls are crossed by three bridges. Paths lead 
on both banks to the (^4 hr.) second bridge, whence a badly kept 
path ascends on the right bank to the (^2 hr.) third and highest 
bridge , where the Giessbach , issuing from a sombre ravine, is 
precipitated into an abyss, 190' in depth. (Best view from a pro- 



204 11I.R.50. — Map,p.l82. ISELTWALD. Bernese 

jeeting rock to the right of the bridge.) A wooden gallery enables 
visitors to pass behind the second fall. About noon rainbows are 
formed in the falls. — The falls are illuminated with Bengal lights 
every evening at 9.30 from 15th May to the end of September. 

A guide-post behind the 'Etablissement Hydrothe'rapique' indicates the 
way, to the left, to the (20 min.) Rauft (2460'), a wooded rock on the N. side 
of the valley, rising abruptly 600' above the lake and commanding a view 
of the Lake of Brienz. — The path to the right from the guide-post leads to 
the Alpine hamlet of Enge, situated among beautiful pastures. Pretty view 
at the point ('/s hr.) where the path reaches the lake. We then de- 
scend past the Naseli to the Aare Bridge and the Meiringen and Brienz 
road (p. 201). — Above the Giessbach (IV2 hr.-, good bridle-path through 
the Riittiwald) is the Curhcms Schweibenalp (3705'; pens. 5-7 fr.), finely situated, 
and 1 hr. farther up (porter 5 fr.) lies Axalp (4985'; "Pent. Axalp, pens. 
4'/2-5 fr. ; "Pens. Bellevue, 10 min. farther on, pens. 4-6 fr., both unpretend- 
ing), a health-resort, whence the Axalphom (7635'; 2 1 /™ hrs.; guide 8 fr.), 
the Faulhorn (p. 198 ; 5 hrs. ; guide 15 f r.), the Schtcarzhom (9610 1 ; 5'/2 hrs. ; 
guide 15 fr.; comp. p. 200), and the Wildgerst (9490'; 5 hrs.; guide 15 fr.) 
may be ascended. — About 1 hr. from Pens. Axalp (2'/2 hrs. from the 
Giessbach) is the Hinterburg-See (5000'), charmingly situated in wood at 
the base of the Oltschikopf. 

Ascent op the Faulhorn (p. 198) from the Giessbach, 6-7 hrs. (guide 
12 fr.), fatiguing at places, especially on the Batten-Alp, which is exposed 
to the morning-sun. 

From the Giessbach to Interlaken (3'/2 hrs.). A good, well-shaded 
path, crossing the first bridge over the falls, and bearing to the right (see 
Anger-posts), leads to the ('/« hr.) Bochfluh , a charming point of view. 
It then runs high above the lake and descends to (1 hr.) Iseltwald (see 
below), from which a road (steep ascent at first) leads to (l'/2 M.) Sengg, 
(3 M.) Bbnigen, and (l'/j M.) Interlaken. 

From the Giessbach the ordinary steamers steer to Oberried, on 
the N. bank, but the express-boats follow the precipitous S. bank, 
past the small wooded Schnecken-Insel, with its little chapel, direct to 
the pretty village of Iseltwald (*H6t. -Pens. Iseltwald, 5-6 fr.; *H6t.- 
Pens. du Lac; Pens. Restaurant Bellevue, pens. 5-6 fr., well spoken 
of; Restaurant zum Strand), whence a picturesque road leads to 
Interlaken (6 M. ; see above). — Then Niederried, charmingly situated 
on the N. bank at the foot of the Augstmatthorn (p. 182). Farther 
on, beyond a wooded promontory, is Ringgenberg (p. 181), with its 
ruin and church. On the S. bank is the influx of the Lutschine, 
which descends from the valley of Lauterbrunnen. The steamer 
stops at Bonigen (p. 178) and enters the canalised Aare. The pier 
at Interlaken is opposite the railway station Interlaken- Ost (p. 177). 

51. From Meiringen to Grindelwald. 

7V2-8 hrs. Road in l'/2 hr., or funicular railway and footpath in •/: nr - 
to the. Zwirgi Inn. Bridle-path thence to Rosenlaui l»/« hr. (descent from 
Rosenlaui to Meiringen 2 hrs.); from Rosenlaui to the Great Scheidegg 2*/» 
(descent l*/ t ) hrs. ; from the Scheidegg to Grindelwald 2 (ascent 3) hours. — 
Guide (unnecessary) 12 fr., including the Faulhorn, 20 fr. — Horse from 
Meiringen to Rosenlaui 10, Scheidegg 15, Grindelwald 25 fr. 

Funicular Railway to the Upper Reichenbach Fall in 10 mill., 
see p. 201. A new footpath, the first part of which is damp with 
the spray from the fall, leads from the station in 20 min. (descent 



Oberland. KOSENLAUI. Map,p.l82. — III.R.51. 205 

12 min.) to a bridge crossing the Reichenbach near the Zwirgi Inn 
(see p. 204). — The traveller who does not wish to use the funicular 
Tailway follows the Grimsel road via the "Willigen-Briicke to (1 M.) 
the hamlet of WiUigen (1970'). A new road diverges to the right 
here, passes (l^M.) the Hot-Pens. Schwendi (2625'; R. 1V2-2, 
to 2 I /2, pens, from 5 fr.), and ascends in windings, finally traversing 
wood, to (2 M.) the Zwirgi Inn (see below). A path to the right at 
the Hot. Schwendi ascends to (6 min.) the pavilion (rfmts.) on the 
right side of the*Upper Fall of the Reichenbach, the spray of which 
bedews everything in the vicinity. Opposite, on the left bank, is 
the terminus of the Funicular Railway (see above and p. 201). — 
From the pavilion a narrow path, passing a gallery (view of the fall 
from the side), ascends through wood to the road in 25 minutes. 
The latter brings us in 3 min. more to the little inn Zum Zwirgi 
(3200'), overlooking the Hasli-Thal. The path from the funicular 
railway (see above) joins the road here from the right, after crossing 
the romantic gorge of the Reichenbach. 

Those who wish to visit the totally different Lower Falls, turn to the 
right beyond the Willigen-Briicke (see above), pass both the hotels, follow 
the footpath to the (10 min.) Reichenbach bridge, and on the other bank 
proceed to the left to a saw-mill. The Reichenbach here descends in two 
imposing falls, broken by rocks. We now return to the Hotel Reichenbach 
and follow the broad bridle-path behind it, which is often crossed by the 
funicular railway. After 10 min. a footpath diverges to the right to the falls 
and to Rosenlaui ; 5 min., hut commanding the Central or Kessel Fall. Here 
we ascend to the left to (5 min.) the road below the Schwendi Inn. 

Travellers from Rosenlaui to Innektkikchen (the Grimsel, Engstl en-Alp, 
etc.) may, omitting the Falls of the Reichenbach and Meiringen, save 
nearly an hour by following the road for 8 min. beyond the path to the 
falls, and then turning to the right by a footpath to the village of (25 min.) 
Qeissholz (2628'), hidden among fruit-trees. Here we ascend the pastures, 
and then rapidly descend the Kirchet (p. 207) to (40min.)/«»«'<i«rcAere(p.2O7). 

The bridle-path now ascends the Reichenbach, high above the 
right bank. Before us soon appears the Wellhorn, with the Wetter- 
horn to the right of it, and the Rosenhorn behind it, to the left. 
Farther on, the Rosenlaui Glacier also comes in sight. Beyond the 
KalteribrunnenSawMill(328&'; *Inn, R.ll/ 2 -2, pens. 4-5 fr.)wecross 
a bridge (4238') to the left bank, andreachthe(l 1 /3hr.) Oschwanden- 
mad-Alp (4260'), commanding a celebrated. **View : the bare pin- 
nacles of the Engelhorner (9130'), the beautiful Rosenlaui Qlacier 
between the Dossenhorn (10,300') and the Wellhorn (10,485'), and 
the snow-clad pyramid of the Wetterhom (12,150') to the right, to- 
gether with the beautiful foreground, present a picture unsurpassed 
in Switzerland. Beyond the bridge the path forks ; the main branch, 
to the left, leads to (20 min.) Rosenlaui, the right branch is a shorter 
route to the Grosse Scheidegg (see p. 206). 

The Baths of Rosenlaui (4363'; *ffit.-Pens. Curhaus, R. 3-5, 
B. li/ 2 , dej. 3, D. 41/2, pens. 8-12 fr.; Engl. Ch. Serv.) occupy 
a secluded site in the well-watered, fir-clad valley of the Reichen- 
bach, which forms a pretty fall in the gorge behind the Curhaus. 



206 III.R.51. — Map,p.l8:>. GREAT SOB EIDEGG. 

From the other side of the bridge opposite the Curhaus a path to the left 
leads to the Roaenlaui Glacier. One of the guide-posts on this path shows 
the way (wooden steps) to the glacier stream. The glacier, famed for the 
beauty and purity of its ice, has receded so much of late that we must 
ascend l'/z-2 hrs. on the left lateral moraine, to a height of about 5740' 
(very rough towards the end), in order to get a survey of it. 

The Sossen Club Hut (8695'), grandly situated 5 hrs. above Rosenl&ui 
and rebuilt in 1899, affords a highly interesting expedition for mountaineers 
(reached also from Innertkirchen through the Urbach-Tltal in 6>/2-7 hrs.; 
guide 16 fr. ; seep. 207). This is the starting-point for the Dossenhorn (10,300'; 
2 hrs., guide from Meiringen or Hof 25 fr.), the Wellhorn (10,485'; 2>/2-3 hrs., 
guide 45 fr. ; laborious), the Renfenhorn (10,735'; 3 hrs. ; guide 30 fr.). the 
Bangend-Gletscherhom (10,810'; 4 hrs. ; guide 30 fr.), the Rosenhorn (\!i,\VS), 
by the Rotenegg (see below) and the S.E. arete in 5 hrs. (guide 60 fr.) and 
the Wetter/iorn (Hasle-Jungfrau, 12,150'), by the Wetteriattel (11,615') in 6 hrs. 
(much easier hence than from the Gleckstein Hut, p. 197; guide 60 fr.). 
From the Dossen Hut we may cross the Wetterlimmi (10,4400, the Qauli 
Glacier, and the Qauli Pats (10,2600 to the Grirnsel, 14-15 hrs., fatiguing; 
with this route the ascent of the Ewigschneehom (10,930') is easily combined 
(p. 210). — From the Dossen Hut over the Rostnegg (11,355'), between 
the Rosenhorn and Bergli-Joch, to the Gleckstein Hut 5-5'/z hrs., not difficult 
for experts (see p. 197). 

The path now ascends the right bank of the Reichenbach, at 
first on the wooded N. slope of the Welligrat, and then continues 
level for a time. After 20 min. we cross the stream to the Breiten- 
boden-Alp (4650'), and ascend on the left bank, crossing the Pfanni- 
bach and traversing the Schwarzwald-Alp (4810'), to the (1-174 hr.) 
Hot. -Pens. Schwarzwaldgletscher (5020'; R. 2-3, B. l 1 ^, pens. 
5-6 fr.), prettily situated amidst wood. To the left are the precip- 
ices of the Wellhorn and Wetterhorn ; high up, the Schwarzwald 
Glacier. We pass a Saw Mill, quit the wood, cross a bridge 
(25 min. ; 5315'), and ascend over the Alpiglen-Alp to the (1 hr.) — 

Great Scheidegg or Hasli-Scheidegg (6430'; Inn, R. 2 1 /2-3'/2i 
B. l'/2i D. 3!/2 fr.), which commands a striking view to the W. 
The smiling valley of Grindelwald, bounded on the S.W. by the pas- 
tures and woods of the Little Scheidegg, contrasts picturesquely 
with the bare precipices of the Wetterhorn, which tower giddily 
above us. To the S.W. of the Wetterhorn are the Mettenberg, 
Fieschergrat, Monch, Eiger, and lastly the Tschingelgrat, Gspalten- 
horn, and Bliimlisalp. To the N. the view is intercepted by the 
sombre Schwarzhorn and other peaks of the Faulhorn chain. 

The Route to the Faulhokn (4 hrs. ; see p. 199) diverges to the right 
close to the hotel, and cannot be mistaken in clear weather. The ( 3 /« hr.) 
upper chalets of the Grindel-Alp (Oberlager), where the view begins to open, 
are visible from the Great Scheidegg. The descent may be made direct 
via the lower chalets ( Unterlager) and UeUshalden to (l>/2 hr.) Grindel- 
wald, or through the Bergelbach-TLal, with the ' Wetterhernhlick (view 
of the Wetterhorn framed in trees), to the (1 hr.) Hotel Wetterhorn. 

We descend from the Scheidegg, with the church of Grindel- 
wald in sight below. At the (10 min.) Obere Lauchbiihl-Hutte (5900'), 
we are greeted with a blast of the alp-horn. In 1 hr. we reach the 
Hotel Wetterhorn, near the Upper Grindelwald Glacier. Thence to 
Grindelwald, 1 hr., see p. 194. 



207 
52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel. 

23 M. Diligence in summer twice daily in 7y 2 hrs. (from the Rhone 
Glacier to Meiringen in b l /t hrs.), fare 9 fr. 30 c. (coupe' 11 fr. 20 c). 
Only 20 passengers are booked for each trip; no extra-post supplied on 
this route. The hotels are dear, and it is advisable to take a supply of 
provisions. — One-horse carriage from Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier 
('Gletsch') 35, two-horse 65, three-horse 90 fr. (to Guttannen 12, 22, 30 fr. ; 
Handegg 17, 32, 40; Grimsel Hospice 27, 50, 65 fr.); from Meiringen to 
Andermatt 65, 120, 165, Goschenen 72, 135, 175, Fiesch 55, 100, 135, Brigue 
75, 140, 185 fr. (occasionally cheaper return-carriages). From Innertkirchen 
to the Grimsel one-horse carriage 23, two-horse 42, Rhone Glacier 32 or 60, 
Goschenen 65 or 120, Brigue 72 or 135 fr. — On Foot (9-10 hrs.): from 
Meiringen to Innertkirchen 1V4 hr., Guttannen 3 1 /* hrs., Handegg 6 hrs., 
Grimsel Hospice 7 hrs., Grimsel Pass 8 hrs., Rhone Glacier 9 hrs. (in the 
reverse direction about 8-872 hrs. in all). 

Meiringen, seep. 200. We cross the Aare by the C/2 M.) Willi- 
gen-Briicke (passing on the left the road to the Oorge of the Aare, 
p. 201, through which runs the shortest footpath to Innertkirchen), 
pass the (1/2 M.) hamlet of Willigen, where the road to the Zwirgi 
diverges to the right (p. 204), and ascend the Kirchet, a wooded 
hill, sprinkled with granite blocks, which divides the valley into the 
lower and Upper Hasli-Thal. Near the top (1 M.) is the inn 
i Zur Lammi (2313'), where the path from the Aare Gorge through 
the 'Finstere Schlucht' (p. 201) debouches. The road descends the 
Kirchet in long windings (short-cuts), with views of the Gelmer- 
horner at the head of the valley and of the Ritzlihorn to the right. 
At the third and last curve we pass the S. entrance of the Aare Gorge 
(p. 201). The road then traverses the fertile basin of Hasli im Orund, 
and, at the inn Zur Alpenrose (unpretending), crosses the Aare to 
(I1/2M.)- 

aVsIrmertkirchenorHof (2053'; *H$t.Hof, with the dependance 
Alpenhof, R. IV2-2V2, B. I1/4, D. 4, pens. 5i/ 2 -6 fr.), where the 
Susten (p. 153) and Engstlen-Alp (p. 150) routes diverge to the left. 

Travellers from the Grimsel to Grindelwald may go from Innertkirchen 
direct, by Winlcel and Geissholz, to the (I72 hr.) Upper Reichenbach Fall 
(p. 204 i enquire for the beginning of the path). About 10 min. beyond 
Geissholz is a finger-post pointing to the right to the fall, where we may 
ascend in a straight direction to the road to the Zwirgi. 

The Urbach-Thal (to the Gauli Club Hut 7 hrs., guide 16 fr. ; comp. 
Map, p. 182), opening here towards the S.W., deserves a visit. A new 
road ascends from Innertkirchen in windings to the (1 hr.) beginning of 
the level floor of the Sandei (on the left is the hamlet of Unterstock, '2900'), 
whence an Alpine path leads to the (1 hr.) Alp Rohrmatlen (33S0 1 ) and to 
the (l 3 /i hr.) Alp Schratlern (4940'; beds), where the path to the Dossen 
Hut diverges to the right (see p. 208). Just before reaching the (IV2 hr.) 
Matten-Alp (6102'), we ascend to the right to the (13/4 hr.) Gauli Club Hut 
on the Urnen-Alp (7220'), at the edge of the huge Gauli Glacier. Thence 
over the Gauli Pats (10,260') to the Grimsel, combined with the ascent of the 
"Ewigtchneehom (10,930' ; 472-5 hrs.), fatiguing, but very grand (10'/2-ll hrs. ; 
guide 35 fr. ; see p. 210). Other ascents from the Gauli Hut are the Hiihner- 
thalihorn (10,435' ; 5 hrs. ; guide 25 fr.), easy and attractive ; the "Ritzlihorn 
(10,765' ; 572 hrs. ; guide 35 fr.), an interesting and not dangerous scramble 
(grani and very picturesque view) ; the Hang end- GUUcherhorn (10,810';472 hrs. ; 
30 fr.), and the Ren/enhorn (10,735'; 57 2 hrs; guide 30 fr.), both fatiguing 
but interesting ; the "Rotenhom (12,110'; 6 hrs. ; 60 fr.), via the Gauli Glacier 



208 II1.R.52.—Map,p.l30. HANDEGG FALL. Bernese 

and the Rosenegg, grand but difficult. — Over the Bergli-Joch (11,290') to 
Grindelwald, 11-12 hrs. from the Gauli Hut, very toilsome (guide from 
Innertkirchen 35 fr.). From the Gauli Hut we ascend the Gauli Olaeier 
to the (5-6 hrs.) pass , to the N. of the Berglistock (p. 197), and descend the 
Grindelwaldfirn to the (2 hrs.) Gleckitein But and (3V2-4 hrs.) Grindtlwald 
(comp. p. 197). — The Dotsen Hut (p. 206) is reached in 3'/2-4 hrs. from the 
Alp Schrattern (p. 207), by the Flaschen-Alp (guide from Meiringen or 
Hof 16 fr.). Thence to Rosenlaui, ascent of the Wetterhorn, and to 
Grindelwald, see p. 205. All these expeditions are for adepts only, with 
good guides. (At Innertkirchen, Easpar Maurer, Jvh. and Alex. Tannler, 
Heinr. and Ulrich Fuhrer, Joh. Meier, Joh. Moor, etc.) 

Beyond Innertkirchen the road is at first level, and then gradually 
ascends on the right side of the wooded valley, running high above 
the rapid Aare to the (l*/2 M.) Aeussere Vrweid. Beyond the short 
Zvben Tunnel , over which a waterfall descends , it reaches the 
C 3 A M.) Innere Vrweid (2464'; small inn). It then crosses the 
impetuous Schlagbachli and beyond another tunnel through a cliff 
of the Tonende Fluh arrives at (H/2 M.) Boden (2933'), where it 
crosses the Aare before ascending to the C/3 M.) Mettlen Inn (un- 
pretending, pens. 5-6 fr.). It then winds up the expanding valley, 
crosses the Spreitlauenenbach, and traverses wood and rock-strewn 
pastures to (2 M.) — 

972 M. Guttannen (3480' ; *H6t.-Pens. Haslithal, pens, from 
5fr. ; Bear, R. l l /- 2 -1 l / 2 , B. l»/ 4 , D. 2i/ 2 -3 fr.), the last village in 
the Oberhasli-Thal, at the foot of the Bitzlihorn (10,765'; ascended 
hence in 7^2 hrs. ; guide 35 fr.; trying; seep. 207). Over the FuW- 
wang Sattel to the Trift Olaeier, see p. 152 (guides, Joh. Fahner and 
Kaspar Streuer). 

Beyond Guttannen the valley narrows, and the road ascends 
through wood. After l 1 ^ M. it crosses the wild and foaming Aare by 
the Tschingel-Briicke (3733'). The valley becomes wilder, and barren 
black rocks rise on the right. Huge masses of debris are reminiscent 
of avalanche and torrent. About 1 M. farther on we recross the 
Aare by the Schwarzbrunnen-Brucke (3976'). The stream becomes 
wilder and descends in noisy rapids. The road skirts the cliffs of 
the Staubenden, traverses a wood, and ascends the Handegg Saddle 
in three long windings. From the (13/ 4 M.) Restaurant zum Handegg- 
fall (simple fare) we may reach (on the left) a point of view below 
the **Handegg Fall, about 100 yds. from it. This cascade of the 
Aare, which descends into an abyss, 240' in depth, falls unbroken 
halfway to the bottom, and in its Tebound forms a dense cloud of 
spray, in which rainbows are formed by the sunshine between 10 
and 1 o'clock. The silvery water of the Aerlenbach falls from a height 
to the left into the same gulf, mingling halfway down with the grey 
glacier-water of the Aare. Diligence passengers may alight at the 
restaurant and rejoin the vehicle at the Hotel Handegg. The road 
leads through a tunnel, and, above the fall, crosses the Aerlenbach, 
near which is a terrace with a splendid *View of the fall; V2 "• 
(I21/2 M. from Meiringen), the Hdtel Handegg (4570' ; B. 3-5, 
B. iy 2 , de'j. 3'/ 2 , D. 4 fr.), situated above the road, to the right. 



land. GRIMSEL HOSPICE. Maps,pp.l30, 182. - HI. B. 52. 209 

The road now traverses the boulder-strewn floor of the valley, 
with a view of a fall of the Qelmerbaeh, which descends from the 
Gelmersee (5968'), a lake on the hill to the left, between the Gel- 
merhom and Schaubhom (IV2 nT - from the Handegg; rough path via. 
the Hellemad-Brticke). The old bridle-path (no longer practicable) 
diverges to the right and leads over rounded slabs of rock, called 
the Helle or Hehle ('slippery') Platten, worn by glacier-friction. The 
road crosses the Aare below a waterfall by means of the Hellemad 
Brucke and ascends in a wide curve. At places it is hewn in the 
glacier-polished granite rock. The scenery is marked by savage 
grandeur. To the right (N.W.), above us, is the Aerlen Glacier, 
with the rocky ridge of the Aerlengratli peering over it. Below is 
the brawling Aare. Traces of glacial action are visible high up on 
both sides. Refreshments may be obtained in a hut on the Kunzen- 
iannlen Alp (5300'), in an expansion of the valley halfway between 
Handegg and Grimsel. The last pines now disappear, and the road 
ascends steadily. Alpine roses abound, and the whistle of the 
marmot resounds on every side. On the opposite bank appear the 
chalets in the Raterichsboden (5595'), and high up, to the left, is 
the Gersten Glacier . Beyond the wild defile of Spitallamm, traversed 
by the Aare, with interesting glacier-striation, the bridle-path joins 
the road on the right. The Zinkenstocke come into sight on the 
right; behind them, to the right, rise the Finsteraarhom and the 
Agassizhorn. About 4!/ 2 M. from the Handegg the road reaches the — 
17 M. Grimsel Hospice (6160' ; Hotel, R. 3y 3 -5, B. iy 2 , de'j. 31/.,, 
D. A fr.), lying at the W. end of the sombre little Grimsel Lake, in 
a desolate basin, enclosed by rocks with patches of scanty herbage 
or moss. 

Excursions (comp. Maps, pp. 130, 182, 340; guide, Caspar Both). The 
-Eleine Siedelhorn (9075'), 3 lirs., easy (guide 5 fr., not essential). We follow 
the Grimsel road nearly to the top of the pass, then turn to the right, and 
ascend on the right side of the brook descending to the Grimsel Lake, to- 
wards the height marked by a signal-cross (the Siedelhorn is not yet in 
sight), over pasture, debris, and rocks (no path at first). We keep some- 
what to the right, as the signal-cross must afterwards he on our left. 
A distinct path now ascends the ridge to the Siedelhorn, latterly over frag- 
ments of granite. The view is imposing. Gigantic peaks surround us on 
every side : to the W. the Schreckhorn, the Finsteraarhom, and the 
Fiescherhorner ; to the N.E. the Galenstock, from which the Rhone Glacier 
descends ; to the S. the Upper Valais chain with its numerous ice-streams, 
particularly the Gries Glacier; to the S.W., in the distance, the Alphubel, 
Mischabel, Matterhorn, Weisshorn, etc. (comp. Dill's Panorama). — Trav- 
ellers bound for Obergestelen (p. 341) descend on the S.E. side, and there 
regain the bridle-path (guide advisable; comp. p. 211). 

To the Pavillon Dollfus, 3 1 /2-4 hrs. (there and back 6-6V2 hrs.; guide 
10fr,), easy and attractive. The Aare is formed, to the W. of the hospice, by 
the discharge of two vast glaciers, the TJnteraar and the Oberaar Glacier, sep- 
arated by the Zinkenstocke (9585'). The TJnteraar Glacier is formed by the con- 
fluence of the Finsteraar and Lauteraar Glaciers, which unite at the foot of 
the rock-arete 'Abschwung' (10,310'), beyond a huge medial moraine, 100' high 
at places. At the foot of this arete (8286') the Swiss naturalist Hugi erected 
a hut in 1827. In 1841 and several following years the eminent naturalist 
Agassis, with Desor, Vogt, Wild, and other savants, spent some time here. 
Baxoekkb, Switzerland. 19th Edition. 14 



210 III. R.52.-Maps,pp. 130,182. FINSTERAARHORN. Bernese 

dating their interesting observations from the 'Hotel des Neuchatelois', a 
stone hut on the medial moraine. These huts have long since disappeared. 
M. Dollfus-Ausset next erected the Pavilion Dollfus (7675') lower down, 
on the N. side of the Lauteraar Glacier, now used as a club-hut (comp. 
p. 197). A footpath leads from the hospice along the right bank of the 
Aare to the (20 min.) Balmsteg (6013'; substantial bridge) and then up the left 
bank via the Unteraar-Alp (path narrow and indistinct) to the (40 min.) 
chalets of Ghalter (6160'). About 5 min. farther on the path ascends to the 
right and in 10 min. more we take to the middle of the glacier (direction 
indicated by cairns). We ascend for 1/2 hr. over debris and for 1 hr. more 
over neve, until we reach a point where the pavilion comes in sight, to 
the right. Here we ascend the large moraine (cairn) and strike a path 
leading to C/2 hr.) the Club Hut, admirably situated on a rocky height 
overlooking the Unteraar Glacier. Opposite rise the Zinkenstocke, Thier- 
berg, Scheuchzerhorn, and Escherhorn; in the background, above the 
Finsteraar Glacier, the Finsteraarhorn ; and to the right of the Abschwung 
the huge Lauteraarhorner and Schreckhorner. — We may continue our 
walk on the glacier as far as ( 3 /« hr.) the foot of the Abschwung (p. 209), 
where we enjoy a full view of the majestic Finsteraarhorn. In the 
medial moraine adjoining the Lauteraar Glacier, nearly opposite the Pav, 
Dollfus, is a fragment of rock bearing the names of 'Stengel 1844; Otz. 
Ch. Martins 1845', inscribed during the observations above referred to. The 
rock, re-discovered in 1884, was then about 2650 yds. from its original site. 

The Ewigschneehorn (10,930'; 4-4 1 / 2 hrs. from the Pav. Dollfus) is a 
toilsome climb, suited only for adepts, with guides. It is better attacked 
from the Gauli Hut (p. 207; 4'/2-5 hrs. ; guide 35 fr.). — Ankenballi (11,825'), 
4'/2-5 hrs. from the Pav. Dollfus, fatiguing (guide 35 fr.). Descent to the 
Gauli Hut, 3 hrs. 

The Finsteraarhorn (14,025'; guide from the Grimsel 90, from Grindel- 
wald 80, with descent to the Grimsel 90 fr., to the Eggishorn Hotel 100 fr.), 
the highest of the Bernese Alps, was scaled for the first time by three 
guides in 1812, then in 1829 and twice in 1842, and has pretty often been 
ascended since. Even when the ice is favourable the ascent is difficult, 
very trying, and fit for experts only, with firstrate guides. Travellers from 
the Grimsel spend the night in the (7-8 hrs.) Oberaarjoch Hut (see below). 
The route thence ascends to the Gemsliicke (Rothhorn- Satlel, 10,020') between 
the Rothhorn and Finsteraarhorn, skirts the W. flank of the latter to 
the Hugi-Sattel (13,205'), and follows the N.W. arete to the top (7 hrs). 
This is the most advisable route. The ascent from the E. side by the S. 
arete is very difficult (7-8 hrs.). — On the ascent from Grindelwald the 
Schwarzegg Hut (p. 197) affords night-quarters ; thence to the top in 9-10 hrs., 
over the Finsteraar-Joch (11. 025'), the Agassiz-Joch (12,630'), to the S.E. of 
the Agassizhorn (12,960'), and the Hugi-Sattel (13,205'). It is by no means 
advisable to descend by this route, as it is endangered by falling stones. 
If the Eggishorn Hotel be the starting-point , the night is spent in the 
(5 hrs.) Concordia Pavilion (p. 342), whence the summit is reached in 8 hrs. 
via the Griinhorn-Liicke (10,843'), the Walliser Fiescherfirn, and the Hugi- 
Sattel (guide 60 fr.). The ""View is most magnificent. 

From the Grimsel to the Furka direct over the Nageli's Gratli (8151'), 
5 hrs. (guide 12 fr.), a fine but fatiguing walk, for good walkers preferable 
to the Grimsel, see p. 140. 

From the Grimsel to the Eggishorn Hotel over the Oberaab-Joch, 
14 hrs., fatiguing, but interesting (two guides, 45 fr. each, including the 
Oberaarhorn 55 fr. each). We ascend via the Oberaar-Alp and the Oberaar 
Glacier in 7 hrs. to the finely situated Oberaarjoch Hut of the S.A.C. 
(10,605'; provision depot, to be used only in case of necessity), situated 
about 400 yds. to the W. of the Oberaar-Joch (10,625'), among the rocks 
above the Studerfirn. The Oberaarhorn (11,950') may be ascended from 
the hut by experts in l'/2 hr. We next traverse the Studerfirn to the P/4 hr.) 
Gemsliicke (ca. 11,020'; see above), to the N. of the Finsteraar- Rothhorn 
(11,345'), and then descend (very steep) to the Fiescherfirn. Hence the route 
(now safe and eaiy) curves to the right to the (I1/4 hr.) QrunhornLilcte 



Oberland. GRIMSEL PASS. Map,p.l30.—III.R.52. 211 

(10,8'(3') and descends by the Grilrihornfim to the P/4hr.) Concordia Pavilion 
(p. 342), beyond which we traverse the Great Aletsch Glacier to the (3'/2hrs.) 
HStel Eggishorn (p. 342). Or from the Oberaarjoch Hut we may descend 
via the Studerfirn and the difficult and sometimes dangerously crevassed 
Fiesch Glacier to the Stock-Alp (p. 342) and the (7 hrs.) HStel Eggishorn 
(p. 342). — Over the Studer-Joch to the Eggishorn Hotel, 14-15 hrs., 
difficult. The route (steep towards the end) ascends the Unteraar and 
Finsteraar Glaciers to the Studer-Joch (11,550'), between the Oberaarhorn 
and the Studerhorn (11,935'; a splendid point of view, attained from the 
pass in 3 /t hr.). Descent over the Studerfirn, as above. — The passage of 
the Oberaar-Eothjoch (10,910') is very difficult and rarely attempted. 

From the Grimsel over the Strahlegg (14hrs. ; guide 40 fr.), the Finsteraar- 
Joch (14 hrs. ; guide 40 fr.), or the Lauteraar-Sattel (14 hrs. ; guide 50 fr.) 
to Grindelwald, p. 197; over the Gauli Pass to the Gauli Hut or Dossen Hut, 
see pp. 206, 207; over the Trift-Limmi to the Trifl-HUtte, p. 152. 

The road crosses the bridge between the two arms of the Grimsel 
Lake (short-cut by the old bridle-path, to the right), and, with a 
retrospect of the Schreckhorn, winds up to the (3 M.) Grimsel Pass 
(7103') , which marks the boundary between Canton Bern and the 
Valais. The small and dark Todtensee ('lake of the dead'; 7034') 
was used as a burial-place during the struggle in 1799 between the 
Austrians and the French. Fine view of the Valais Alps and the 
great Gries Glacier. 

A footpath to the right, at the topmost bend of the pass, ascends a 
stony tract to the height of 7230', and descends to (2 hrs.) Obergestelen 
(p. 341; in the opposite direction 2>/2-3 hrs.; guide, 4 fr., advisable in 
dull weather). — Those who have seen the Rhone Glacier and intend to 
climb the Kleine Siedelhorn (p. 209) do not ascend direct from the pass, 
but follow the road for some way beyond the curve on the Bern side before 
diverging to the left. 

From the pass the road descends the Maienwang, a steep slope 
carpeted with rhododendrons and other Alpine plants, in view of the 
Rhone Glacier, the Dammastock, and the Galenstock. The bridle- 
path (shorter) is in bad condition. The (3 M. ; up 1^2 nr — 

23 M. Ehone Glacier Hotel (5750') , see p. 340. Thence to 
Brigue, see R.80; over the Furka to Andermatt, see R. 35. 



53. From Spiez to Leuk over the Gemmi. 

14 hrs. Railway to Frutigen, 8V2 M., in V2 hr. (fares 1 fr. 40 c, 1 fr.); 
Diligence from Frutigen to Kandersteg, 9'/2 M., daily in summer in 2'/4 hrs. 
(fare 2 fr. 45 c. ; one-horse carr. 10, two-horse 16 fr.). — From Kander- 
steg a well-kept bridle-path leads over the Gemmi., one of the grandest of 
the Alpine passes, to the Baths of Leuk (5'/2 hrs. ; guide needless ; portet 
10 fr. ; riding down the Gemmiwand impracticable). — Carriage-road (dili- 
gence daily in 2 hrs.) to (9'/2 M.) Leuk-Susten in the Rhone Valley. Good 
cycling road from Spiez to Kandergrund. 

From Spiez to (3 M.) Aeschi-Heustrich, opposite the Heustrieh^ 
Bad, see p. 172. The line descends to the Kander. Beautiful view 
of the Bliimlisalp at the head of the Kienthal. "We cross the Suld- 
bach before reaching (4V 2 M.) Mulenen (2260'; *Pension Mulenen, 
4-6 fr., unpretending ; Bar, pens. 4-5 fr.). A road to the left leads 
hence to (1^2 M.) Aeschi (comp. p. 174). 

14* 



212 III. Route 53. FRUTIGEN. From Spiez 

5 M. Reichenbach (2335'; *Bar, pens. 5-6 fr.; Kreuz, plain), 
5 niin. to the E. of the station, at the mouth of the Kienthal. 

A visit to the Kienthal is interesting. From Reichenbach a new road 
(diligence in summer twice daily in l J /4 hr., 90 c.) ascends in windings 
(short-cuts for walkers) via (l'/a M.) Scharnachtlial (2780'; from the Buttchi- 
stutz, a height near the E. end of the village, the glaciers at the head 
of the valley are well surveyed) to the (3 M.) village of Kienthal (3096'; 
'H6t.-Pens. Kiimthnler Hof , pens, from 5 fr. ; guides, Rudolf, Christen, and 
Jacob Maui), which is charmingly situated, and well adapted for a stay of 1 
snme time. Hence a cart-road leads past the beautiful Kienbach Falls tn 
(4 M.) the Ticking el- Alp (3783'), V* nr - from which is the Diindenbach Fall 
with the interesting "Hexenkessel, a kind of 'glacier mill' (30 c. ; guide ad- 
visable). Thence over the Sefinen-Furgge to Miirren (7-8 hrs.), and over 
the Hohthilrli to Kandersteg (8'/j-9 hrs.), see p. 189. — To the S.E. the 
valley is closed by the crevassed Gamchi Glacier, the source of the Pochten- 
bach. Experts with able guides will find it interesting to cross the Gamchi- 
liicke (9295'), between the Blumlisalp and the Gspaltenhorn, to the Tschingel- 
firn (p. 189). We may then either cross the Petersgrat to Ried in the 
Lbtschen-Thal (p. 190) , or the Tschingel Pass to Kandersteg (p. 189), or 
descend by the Tschingeltritt to Lauterbrunnen (p. 189). Distances : from 
the Tschingel-Alp to the Burgli-Alp li/2hr., end of Gamchi Glacier 1 hr., 
Gamchiliicke 2'/2, Ried 6-7, Kandersteg 6, Lauterbrunnen 4 hrs. — Ascent* 
from the Kienthal: Schilthorn (9753'), from the Diirrenberg-Hutte (6545" 3 
2'/2 hrs. above the Tschingel-Alp, see p. 188). 3-3V2 hrs. with guide? 
deseent to Miirren, see p. 187. — Biittlassen (10,490'; guide 25 fr.), from' 
the Durrenberg-Hiitte 3'/2-4 hrs., toilsome, but repaying. — G-spaltenhoiJ 
(11,275'; guide 60 fr.), reached by the Leitergrat between the Buttlasseq 
and the Gspaltenhorn, very difficult (first scaled by Mr. Foster in 1869). 

The railway crosses the Kander by a bridge 170' long (fine view 
of the Blumlisalp and Gspaltenhorn), and beyond Wengi reaches 

8'/ 2 M. Frutigen (2717'; pop. 3989; Hot. des Alpes et Terminus\ 
at the station, R.1V2-2V 2 , B. 1-1 V4, l>.2-3, pens. 5-6 fr. ; BahnhOt 
Hotel, Hot.-Pens. Bellevue , same proprietor, R. 1V2"2V2> B. V/ t 
d' : .j- 2Y2i D. 3, pens, from 5 fr.; Adler , unpretending; Helvetia 
Engl. Ch. Serv. in summer), a village in a fertile valley, on th 
Engstligenbach, which falls into the Kander lower down (to Adel 
boden, see p. 219). Matches are largely made here. From th 
church and other points we obtain beautiful views of the Kander- 1 
Thal, the Balmhorn, the Altels, etc. 

Excursions. The Gerihorn (6995' ; 37-2-4 hrs.; guide not indispensable] 
is an easy and attractive ascent. — A far more imposing view is afforded 
by the * Hteinschlaghorn (7620'), which may be scaled by the Ueblenberg 
in about 4 hrs. (guide, 5 fr., unnecessary for experts). — From Frutijien 
to the top of the Niesen (p. 171), 5-5'/2 hrs., path bad in places, not ad- 
visable. — Road to Adelboden, see p. 219. 

The road to Kandersteg crosses the Engstligenbach and turns 
into the Kander-Thal on the left, between the Gerihorn on the leftt 
and the Elsighorn on the right. In front appear the Balmliora 
and Altels. At the (1 M.) ruins of the Tellenburg we cross tha| 
Kander, traverse the pleasant Kandergrund, and finally ascendJ 
leaving the church of Bunderbach (2880'; Altels Inn) on the left,] 
to the (2'/2 M.) Hotel-Restaurant Blauseehohe (unpretending ; R. 2-3, 
B. li/ 4 , D. 21/2, Pens. 4«/ 2 -6 fr.). 

About y« M. to the right is the "Blaue Bee (2950'), picturesquely em 
bosomed in wood, and remarkable for its brilliant colour (best by morning 



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to Leuk. KANDERSTEG. III. Route 53. 213 

light; adm. 1 fr., including a row on the lake). On the lake is the "HOlel- 
Pension Blausee (pens. 6V2-8 fr. ; restaurant). 

Near (ll/ 4 M.) Mittholz (3154'; Hot. -Pens. Alpemuh) we pass 
the picturesque ruined Felsenburg. We then ascend the Biihlstutz 
in windings (old road shorter), pass the (3 M.) Biihlbad (*Inn and 
Pens., R. 2, B. IV4, D. 272-3, pens. 4*/2-6 fr. ; free conveyance 
in the morning to the foot of the pass for travellers to the Gemmi), 
and reach (3/ 4 M.) — 

18 M. Kandersteg (3835'). — Hotels. "Hotel Victoria, R. 2>/z-4, 
B. IV2, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 6-12 fr.; *H6t. Gemmi, *Bear, similar charges, 
both well situated in Eggenschwand, l'A M. farther on; all three belong 
to the Egger family. "Hot. Alpenkose, R. 2-3, B. I1/4, D. 3'/2, S. 2»/ s , 
pens. 6-7 fr., unpretending. — Guides {Abraham Miiller and son, Joh. Ogi- 
Stoller, Peter Ogi, S. Ogi-Hari, Joh. ffari and son, Samuel Hari, 0. Kiinzi, 
A. Schnydrig, Imobersteg the schoolmaster, etc.): to Schwarenbach (un- 
necessary ; 3, descent 2 hrs.) 5 fr. ; to the Gemmi 7, to the Baths of Leuk 
10 fr. — Carriages (return-vehicles cheaper): one-horse to Frutigen 10, 
two-horse 18 fr. ; Spiez, 18 or 32; Thun, 22 or 40; Interlaken, 25 or 45 fr. 
.Small carriage for 1 pers. from the Bear to the Gemmi Pass 20, there and 
back 25 fr. — English Church near Hotel Victoria. 

A grand panorama is disclosed between Biihlbad and the Hotel 
Victoria: N.E. is the jagged Birrenhorn ; E. the glistening snow- 
mantle of the Bliimlisalp or Frau, the beautiful Doldenhorn ; S.E. 
the barren Fisistocke. Farther on, the snow-peaks disappear, leav- 
ing only the Gellihorn, Lohner, and other rocks at the end of the 
yalley in sight. On the left the Kander bursts from the Klus 
fp. 219). The road ends in Eggenschwand, 1 Y4 M. from the Victoria 
|nd near the Bear. On the W. side of the valley is an old moraine. 

To the E. lies the interesting Oeschinen-Thal. The path (to the lake 
l'/i hr. ; guide, 4 fr., unnecessary; horse 8 fr.) diverges to the left by the 
Hotel Victoria, ascends for 50 min. on the left bank of the Oeschinen- 
lach, partly through wood, then crosses to the right bank (pretty water- 
fall to the right), and descends to the (40 min.) beautiful °Oeschinen- 
See (5223'), 1 M. in length (Hotel Oeschinensee, well spoken of, R. l'/2-2, 
D. 2'/2i pens. 4-5 fr.). Above the lake tower the snow-clad Bliimlisalp, 
Friindenhorn , and Doldenhorn, from the precipices of which fall several 
cascades. A row on the lake is enjoyable (to the gorge at the S.E. angle 
and back 1 hr., fare 1 fr.). Walkers may go round the lake to the left 
as far as the Berglibach, opposite the glaciers. Thence to the Oeschinen-Alp 
and over the Hohthiirli into the Kienthal (guide to Reichenbach, 15 fr.), 
or over the Hohthiirli and Seflnen-Furgge to Lauterbrunnen (guide 25 fr.), 
see p. 189. 

.-,, The Bliimlisalp or Frau, a huge mountain-group, covered on the N. 
side with a dazzling mantle of snow, and on the S. descending in bold 
precipices to the Kander Glacier, culminates in three peaks. To the W. 
is the Bliimlisalphorn (12,040'), the highest; in the centre is the snowy 
Weisse Frau (12,010'); and to the E. is the Morgenhorn (11,905') with the 
lower Wilde Frau (10,693'), Bliimlisalpstock (10,560'), Bliimlisalp - Bolhhorn 
^0,828'), and Oeschinenhom (11,450'). The Bliimlisalphorn was first ascended 
by Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1860, the Weisse Frau by Dr. Roth and Hr. E. 
von Fellenberg in 1862, and the Morgenhorn by Hr. Hugo Baedeker in 1869. 
The starting-point for these ascents is now the Bliimlisalp Club Hut (S.A.C.) 
on the Hohthiirli (9055' ; 5 hrs. from Kandersteg, see p. 189), whence the 
Wilde Frau may be ascended in 2V2 hrs. (guide 30 fr.), the Bliimlisalpstock 
to 3'/2 hrs. (guide 25 fr.), the Weisse Frau in 472 hrs. (guide 40 fr.), the 
™(8ift»«i!pAor» and the Morgenhorn each in 5 hrs. (guide 40 fr.). 



214 III. R. 53. — Map,p.212. KANDERSTEG. From Spiet 

The Doldenhorn (11,965' ; guide 40 fr.), first ascended by Messrs. Roth 
and Fellenberg in 1862, is difficult: from the new Doldenhorn But of the 
S.A.C., 3 hrs. from Kandersteg, on the Upper Biberg (ca. 6560'), in 5y 2 - 
6 hrs. — The Friindenhorn (11,045' ; guide 30 fr.), first ascended in 1871, 
is also difficult (from the Doldenhorn Hut 5 hrs.) — Interesting but toil- 
some passes lead from the Oeschinen-Thal to the Eander Glacier, across 
the Oeschinen- Joeh (about 10,430'), between the Oeschinenhorn and the 
Friindenhorn, and across the Friinden-Joch (9845'), between the Frunden- 
horn and the Doldenhorn (from Kandersteg to the Mutthorn Hut 10 hrs • 
guide 40 fr.). 

The *Dundenhorn or Wiltwe (9400'; 5-6 hrs. ; guide 20 fr.), ascended from 
Kandersteg by the Oeschinen-Alp, rather difficult, for experts only, affords 
a splendid survey of the Bliimlisalp group. We may then follow the arete 
to the Bundstock (9050') and the Bliimlisalp Hut (p. 213), and descend to 
Kandersteg (13-14 hrs. in all). 

The wild Gastern-Thal, from which the Kander descends in pictur- 
esque falls, deserves a visit ( 3 /4-l hr.). A good path, diverging between 
the Bear and Gemmi hotels, skirts the left bank and ascends steeply through 
the Klus (p. 219) to the upper part of the valley, bounded on the S. by the 
precipices of the Tatlishorn and Altels. Splendid fall of the Gellenbach. 
The Alpschelenhubel (7385'; 3 hrs.; guide, not necessary for experts, 
8 fr.), to the W. of Kandersteg, is easy and attractive. We diverge to the 
right from the Gemmi road beyond the Bear Hotel, ascend by the Ueschinen- 
Thal to the (1 hr.) Ueschinen-Alp (p. 220), and thence to the right by the 
Bonder Krinden route (p. 220; steep at places, but safe) to the (IV2 hr.) 
Alpichelen-Alp (6870'). Thence to the (V2 hr.) Hubel, over pastures to the N.E. 
(fine view). 

From Kandersteg over the Bonder Krinden or the Allmengrat to Adel- 
boden, see p. 220 (6 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.) ; over the Lotschen Pass to Ried, see 
B. 54 (9 hrs.; guide 18 fr.); over the Tschingel Pass to Lauterbrunnen, 
see p. 189 (guide 30 fr. ; preferable the reverse way, as there are no inns 
in the Gastern-Thal, and the ascent thence is long and fatiguing). — Over 
the Petersgrat to the Lotschen- Thai (11-12 hrs. from Kandersteg to Ried; 
guide 30 fr.), a fine route. We follow the Tschingel Pass route to the top 
of the Kander firn, then turn to the right and ascend snow-slopes to the 
Petersgrat (p. 189; "View). Descent through the Telli-Thal to Ried (p. 217). 

The bridle-path beginning at the Bear Hotel (3940' ; shady in 
the morning) ascends straight towards the Oellihorn ('Mittaghorn'; 
7510'). On the right the Alpbach descends from the Ueschinen- 
Thal, forming several small falls. The path winds up the slope of the 
Gellihorn for about 1^2 hr., and on reaching the first ridge ('beim 
Stock') leads through pine-forest high above the Gastern-Thal (p. 218) 
and, farther on, above the Schwarzbaeh Valley, affording fine views 
of the Fisistock, Doldenhorn, etc. About 2-2'/2 hrs. from the Bear 
Hotel we reach the Spitalmatte (6240 r ), a pasture which was entirely 
devastated in Sept., 1895, by a burst of the glacier covering the 
slopes of the Altels (11,930'), to the left. A tablet commemorates 
the six persons who lost their life on this occasion. Between the 
Altels and the black rocky peak of the Kleine Rinderhorn (9865' j 
adjoining which is the snow-clad Orosse Rinderhorn, 11,340'), lies 
imbedded the Schwarz Glacier, drained by the Schwarzbaeh. We 
next traverse a stony chaos to the (40 min.) Schwarenbach Inn 
(6780'; R. 2-31/2, B. 11/2, D. 3 fr.). 

Ascents. The Grosse Rinderhorn (11,340'), 5 hrs. (guide 20 fr.), rather 
difficult ; view very fine. — The "Balmhorn (12,175'), ascended in 5'/s-6 hrs., 
over the Schwarz Qlacier and the Zagengrat (toilsome, but free from danger; 



to Leuk. GEMMI. Map,p.212. — III.R.53. 215 

guide 25 fr., to the Baths of Leuk 30 fr.), affords a magnificent panorama 
of the Alps of Bern and the Valais, extending to N. Switzerland. Mont 
Blanc and the colossal Bietschhorn are especially prominent. Below lie 
Leuk and the Kander-Thal, extending on the N. to the Lake of Thun. 
Expert climbers may descend from the Zagengrat direct to the Baths of 
Leuk. — The Altels (11,930') is also interesting (5-6 hrs. ; guide 25 fr. ; 
much step-cutting necessary when there is little snow). Those who have 
steady heads may combine the Balmhorn with the Altels (passage from 
one to the other, I-IV2 hr. ; guide 40 fr.). — The Wildstrubel (10,670' ; 
guide 20, with descent to Lenk 30 fr.) is ascended from the Gemmi over 
the Lammern Glacier in 472 hrs. (p. 225). — Over the Engstligen-Qrat to 
Adelboden (572-6 hrs. ; guide 12 fr.), see p. 220. 

We next reach the (}/% hr.) shallow Daubensee (7265'), i.1/4 M. 
long, fed by the Lammern Glacier, with no visible outlet, and 
generally frozen over for seven months in the year. The path skirts 
the E. bank of the lake for about 20 min., and, 10 min. beyond it, 
reaches the summit of the pass, the Gemmi or Daube (7640' ; *H6tel 
Wildstrubel, R. 3-3i/ 2 , B. 11/2- dtfj. 3, D. 31/2-4, pens. 7-9 fr.), 
at the base of the Daubenhom (9685'), commanding a magnificent 
*View of the Alps of the Valais (panorama by Imfeld). To the ex- 
treme left are the Mischabelhorner ; more to the right, and farther 
off, rise Monte Rosa, the Barrhorn, and the Brunnegghorn ; in the 
centre, the huge Weisshorn, the Zinal-Rothhorn, the Ober-Gabel- 
horn, the blunt pyramid of the Matterhorn, the Pointe de Zinal, the 
Dent Blanche, the Bouquetins, and the Dent de Perroc. To the right 
of the Daubenhom is the range of the Wildstrubel, with the Lam- 
mern Glacier, and far below lie the Baths of Leuk. Rich flora. 

About 4 min. beyond the pass we reach the brink of an almost 
perpendicular rocky wall, 1660' high, down which, in 1736-41, the 
cantons of Bern and Valais constructed one of the most curious of 
Alpine routes, 5' in width. The windings are hewn in the rock, 
often resembling a spiral staircase, the upper parts actually project- 
ing at places beyond the lower. The steepest parts and most sudden 
corners are protected by parapets. Distant voices reverberating in 
the gorge sometimes sound as if they issued thence. The descent 
on horseback is now prohibited; a marble cross, y 4 hr. from the top, 
commemorates an accident to a rider. At the foot of the cliff extends 
a slope of debris, the lower part of which is covered with flrs. The 
descent from the pass to the Baths takes IV2 hr. (ascent 2'/2 hrs.). 

Baths of Leuk. — Hotels (the first six all belonging to the same 
company). 'Hotel des Alpes, E. 372, B. I72, dej. 3V2, D. 41/2, pens. 
7-12 fr. ; 'Maison Blanche ; *H6tel de France ; 'Union ; *H6t. des Fkeees 
Bkdnnee; *Bellevoe (Ctiriaal), in these E. 3, D. 3^2, pens, from 6 fr. ; 
"Guillatjme Tell, similar charges; Rossli, unpretending, E. 2, B. 1, D. 2, 
pens. 4-5 fr. — Beer at the Maison Blanche , Bellevue , and Restaurant del 
Touristet. — Horse to Kandersteg 20, Schwarenbach 12, Daubensee 8 fr. 
(riding practicable only to the beginning of the windings in the Gemmi 
Eavine , ca. IV4 hr. from Kandersteg , and 'then on the other side of the 
pass). Porter to Kandersteg 10, Schwarenbach 6, Gemmi 4 fr. — Diligence 
(from the HStel de France) to the Leuk station every forenoon in summer 
in 2 hrs. (fare 3 fr. 95 c); one-horse carr. 12-15, two -horse 25 fr. — 
English Church. 



216 III.R.53—Map,p.2l2. BATHS OF LEUK. 

Bad Leufc (4630') , Fr. Loueche -les- Bains , locally known as 
Baden, a village (620 inhab.) consisting of wooden houses and the 
large hotels and bath-houses, lies on green pastures in a valley open- 
ing to the S., and watered by the Dala. Even in the height of 
summer the sun disappears at 5 p.m. The huge, perpendicular rocks 
of the Gemmi present a weird appearance by moonlight. The Thermal 
Springs (93-123° Fahr.), impregnated with lime, about 22 in number ; 
are chiefly beneficial in cases of cutaneous disease and rheumatism. 
Patients are numerous from June to September. The bath-houses 
[Qrosse Bad, Neue Bad, St. Lorenz-Bad, and three others) are con- 
nected with the hotels, and contain both private and common basins, 
in which the patients under full treatment spend several hours 
daily. Spectators aTe admitted to the galleries of the common 
basins, where they are expected to contribute a small sum 'pour les 
pauvres'. The animated conversation of the patients is chiefly in 
French. Small tables or trays float on the water, bearing cups of 
coffee, newspapers, books, etc. The baths are open from 5 to 10 a.m. 
and from 2 to 5 p.m. — The Cur- Promenade , an avenue I/2M. 
long, leading from the Neue Bad past the Hotel Bellevue, is fre- 
quented in the morning by patients drinking the waters and in the 
afternoon by promenaders (music). Below the end of it, to the 
right, are the promenades of the 'Bois de Gythere'. 

Excursions (guides, B. and W. Qrichting, J. Lehner, J. J. Schurwey). A 
walk leads from the end of the Cur-Promenade to the (20 min.) foot of a 
lofty precipice on the left hank of the Dala. Here we ascend by eight 
rude Ladders (echelles), attached to the face of the rock, to a good path 
at the top, which leads in 1 hr. to the village of Albinen (4252')- The fine 
view obtained from a jutting rock above the second ladder will repay the 
climber; but persons liable to dizziness should not attempt the ascent. 
The descent is more difficult. — Excursions may also be made to the Fall 
of the Dala, 3/4 hr. to the N.E., above Leuk; to the Feuillerette-Alp (5850"), 
1 hr. to the E., with fine view of the Altels, Balmhorn, and Gemmi; and 
to the Flnh Alp (6710') in the upper part of the Dala-Thal, 2y 2 hrs. 

To the Hotel Tokrent-Alp, a charming excursion of 272-3 hrs. 
(porter 4, horse 10 fr.). A winding bridle-path (red way-marks) ascends 
through wood and up the Pat du Loup (6105') and then traverses the 
pastures of the Torrent-Alp (beautiful flowers) to the "Hotel-Pension Tor- 
rent-Alp (8005'; R. 2-3, B. I1/2, dej. 2i/ 2 -3, D. 3V2-4, pens. 7-9 fr. ; Engl. Ch. 
Serv. in summer), affording tine views and good headquarters for mountain- 
excursions. The chief ascent is that of the "Torrenthorn (9852'; lVs hr. ; 
guide, unnecessary, 5 fr.). The bridle-path runs to the left along the slope 
at the back of the hotel, then turns to the right over the arete to the saddle, 
and finally ascends to the left to the summit (bench), which commands a 
magnificent view of the Bernese and Valaisian Alps (good panorama by X. 
Imfeld). On the N. side is the Majing Olacier, reached from the hotel in 
IV2 hr. — The Galmhorn (8080'), ascended from the hotel by a good path 
in H/2 hr. (guide needless), commands an extensive view of the Khone 
Valley and Valaisian Alps. — Proficients should ascend the "Majinghorn 
(10,035'; 3 hrs.; guide, 8 fr., not indispensable), the view from which re- 
sembles that from the Torrenthorn. To the N. we look down venically into 
the Dala-Thal; to the E. we have an unimpeded view of the Lotschen-Th»l. 
Other fairly easy ascents are the Laucherspitze (9345' ; 3 hrs. ; 8 fr.) , the 
Faldum-Rothhorn (9640'; 3 hrs. ; 8 fr.j, and the Niven (9105'; 5 hrs.; 12 fr.). 
The Ferden-Rothhorn (10,440'; 4 hrs.; 12 fr.) is trying; the Resli-Roihhorn 
(9757' ; 5 hrs. ; 15 fr.) takes good climbing. — Passes : To Kanderiteg over 



RIED. Map,p.212.~IH.R.54. 217 

the Gitzi-Furgge (9613') and the Lotschen Pass (8840'), toilsome (10 hrs.; 
20 fr.), comp. p. 218. To Eied over the Ferden Pass (8593' ; 4'/ 2 hrs. ; 14 fr.) 
or over the Resti Pass (8658'; 4 hrs.; 14 fr.), interesting and not difficult 
(comp. p. 218). 

The road to (91/2 M.) Leuk ciosses the Dala and descends on the 
right bank to (3 M.) Inden (3730'; *Restaurant des Alpes, plain), 
whence walkers should take the shorter bridle-path to the left. 
Above, to the left, lies the village of Albinen (p. 216). The road, 
after following the slope of the Dala Gorge a little farther, winds 
down, and recrosses the (l 1 ^ M.) Dala by a lofty bridge (fine view). 

Pedestrians bound for Sieere (p. 332) take the old road, which diverges 
to the right from the above road, below the last curve and ahout500yds. 
before the bridge, passes through three tunnels, and gradually descends 
the slope by Varen and Salgesch (to Sierre 2 hrs.). 

The road quits the Dala ravine about I1/4 M. farther on, high 
above the Rhone Valley, of which a fine view is disclosed, extend- 
ing to the Dent de Morcles and Dent du Midi. Opposite is the 
Illgraben, with the Pflner Wald below it. From the angle (2998') 
walkers follow the finger-posts direct to Leuk (2470'; p. 333), while 
the carriage-road describes a curve of nearly 2'/2 M. From the town 
to Leuk Station (2044'; p. 333), li/ 4 M. 

54. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen Pass. 

11 hrs. (9 hrs. from Ried). — For good walkers only, in fine weather. 
Guide from Ferden or Eied to Kandersteg necessary (18 ir.). The Lbtschen- 
Thal itself deserves a visit. A rough and steep cart-road to Goppenstein ; 
thence to Ried and Gletscherstaffel a bridle-path. 

From Gampel (2100'; Hdt. Lbtschenthat), on the right bank of the 
Rhone, 1 M. to the N. of the station of that name (p. 333), with large 
chemical works and some lead and silver mines, the road ascends 
the Lotschen- Thai, or gorge of the Lonza, which is much exposed to 
avalanches. Mounting rapidly at first, it passes the chapels of (1 hr.) 
Mitthal (3425') and (1/2 hr.) Goppenstein (4035'). It then crosses 
the (1/4 hr.) Lonza, where the valley expands, and leads to (1 hr.) 
Ferden (4557') and (1/4 hr.) Kippel (4514'; bed at the curifs). It 
then ascends by Wiler to (40 min.) Bied (4950'; *H6t. Nesthorn, 
plain), finely situated at the base of the Bietschhorn. 

Excursions. (Guides, Jos. Rubin, Jos., Gabriel, Joh., and Theod. Kalber- 
maitea, etc.) The Hohgleifen (Adlerspitze 10,828'; 6-7 hrs., guide 25 fr.) is 
not difficult for experts, via, the Schbnbiihl and the W. flank. [The ascent 
from the E. side, by the Kastter-Joch (ca. 10,335') and the Ijolli Glacier, is 
much more difficult.] Superb view of the entire Valaisian Alps, the W. 
Bernese Alps, the Lbtschen-Thal, and the Rhone Valley. — The Bietschhorn 
(12,965'; 10-11 hrs.; guide 80 fr.), first ascended by Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1859, 
is very fatiguing and difficult, and fit for thorough experts only. The night 
is spent in the Club Hut on the Schafberg (8440 1 ), 3 hrs. from Ried. 

Other ascents from Ried : " Lauterbrunner Breithorn (12,400' ; 9-9 : /2 hrs. ; 
guide 40 fr.), not difficult for experts (see p. 190); "Hockenhorn (ll,81T; 
6V2-7hrs.; guide 15 fr.), not difficult (see p. 218); Tschingelhorn (11,750'; 
over the Petersgrat in 7-8 hrs.; guide 27 fr.), not difficult; Grosshorn 
(12,352'; 10 hrs. ; guide 45 fr.), troublesome. 

Passes. Over the Petersgrat (10,515') to Lauterbrutmen or Kandersteg 
(12 hrs.; 35 fr.), fatiguing but highly interesting, see p. 189. — Wetterliicke 



218 III.R.54.—Map,p.212. LOTSCHEN PASS. 

(10,365') and Bchmadri-Soch (10,863'), both difficult, see p. 190. — Over 
the LbtschenlUcke to the Eggishorn (12 hrs. ; guide 40 fr.), see p. 342; over 
the Beichgrat to Belalp (10 hrs. •, guide 25 fr.), see p. 335. 

Over the Baltschieder-Joch (about ll.loX)'; from Ried to Visp 12 hrs.: 
guide 25 fr.); over the Bietschjoch (10,600'; 9 hrs.), or the Kastler-Joch 
(10,335'; 10 hrs.), from Ried to Raron (guide 20 and 25 fr.), all three interest- 
ing but fatiguing. 

Fbom Ried to Bad Ledk ovek the Febden Pass, 8-9 hrs. (guide 18 fr.) 
repaying, and not difficult. At the Kummen-Alp (see below) the path 
diverges to the left from the Lotschen Pass route, and ascends the Ferden- 
Thai to the Ferden Pass (8593'), between the Majinghorn (10,035') and the 
Ferden-Rothhorn (10,440'). Descent over long stony slopes to the Fluh-Alp, 
and through the Dala-Thal to Bad Leuk (p. 215). — Over the Gitzi-Furgge 
9613'), 9-10 hrs. to Bad Leuk, interesting, but laborious (guide 20 fr.). The 
pass lies to the S.W. of the Lotschen Pass, between the Ferden-Rothhorn 
and the Balmhorn. Descent over the Dala Glacier to the Fluh-Alp (see 
p. 217). — Ovek the Resti Pass, 7-8 hrs., also interesting (guide 18 fr.). 
From Ferden we ascend the Resti-Alp (6925'; two beds) in 3'/2-4 hrs. to the 
Resti Pass (8658'), between the Resti- Rothhorn (9757') and the Laucher- 
tpilze (9400'; easily ascended from the pass in *U hr. ; admirable view) and 
descend to the (I1/2 hr.) H6t. Torrent-Alp (p. 216) and the (IV2 hr.) Baths of 
Leuk. — To Leuk-Susten over the Faldum Pass (8675'), between the Laucher- 
spitze and the Faldum-Rothhom (9310'), or over the Niven Pass (8563'), 
between the Faldum-Rothhorn and the Niven (9110'; a fine point of view, 
V2 hr. from the pass), both easy (guide 18 fr.). 

The Lotschen Pass route ascends from Ferden (see p. 217) 
towards the N.W., through beautiful larch-wood and pastures, to 
the (2 hrs.) Kummen-Alp (6808'); then over rock, debris, and 
patches of snow to the (2 hrs.) Lotschen Pass (&9A0 r ), commanded 
on the W. by the Balmhorn (12,175'; p. 214), and on the E. by the 
Schilthorn or Hockenhorn (10,817'; ascended from the pass in 
2^2 hrs.; guide 7 fr. extra; splendid view). We obtain the finest 
view on the route before reaching the pass itself: to the S.E. rises 
the Bietschhorn ; to the S. the magnificent group of the Mischabel, 
Weisshorn, and Monte Rosa; to the N. are the rocky buttresses of the 
Doldenhorn and Blumlisalp ; to the N.E. the Eander Glacier, over- 
topped by the Mutthorn. 

The path descends on the right side of the Lbtschenberg Glacier, 
and then crosses it to the Balm (7940'), near the end of the glacier. 
Hence it descends rapidly over moraine-de'bris and leads over the 
Schonbuhl to the (i.ifaln.') Gfall-Alp (6035'; milk), overlooking the 
upper Gastern-Thal. At the bottom of the valley we cross the 
Kander to (1/2 hr.) the huts of Gastern or Selden (5315' ; at the 
first, a small cabaret). The Gastern-Thal was better peopled at the 
beginning of the last century than now ; but indiscriminate felling of 
timber has so exposed it to avalanches that the inhabitants have to 
leave it from February to the hay-harvest. Beyond a beautiful forest, 
which has resisted the avalanches of the Doldenhorn for centuries, 
we reach (1 hr.) Gasternholz (4462'), amidst a chaos of rocks. The 
valley bends here and expands, being bounded on the S. by the 
snow-clad Altels (11,930') and the Tatlishorn (8220'), and on the 
N. by the Fisistocke (9200'). Waterfalls descend from the cliffs to 
the S.; the finest is that of the Geltenbach. At the end of the valley 



ADELBODEN. Maps,pp. 170,212. — III. R. 55. 219 

•we enter the (1 hr.) *Klus, a picturesque defile 3 / 4 M. long, through 
which the Kander forces its way in a series of cascades. Crossing 
the river in the centre of the gorge, we turn to the left to reach the 
(}li hr.) Bear Hotel , or to the right, again crossing the stream, to 
reach the (20 min.) H6t. Gemmi in Kandersteg (see p. 213). 

55. From Frutigen to Adelboden. 

Railway from Spiez to Frutigen in !/ 2 hr., see p. 211. Diligence 
from Frutigen to (10 M.) Adelboden, twice daily in summer in 2 3 /t hrs. (fare 
3 fr. 25 c. ; one-horse carr. 10, two-horse 18 fr.). 

Frutigen (2717'), see p. 212. The road ascends through the deep 
and well-woodedEngstligen-Thal on the left hank of the Engstligen, 
crossing several torrents descending on the right from the 'Spissen' 
of theNiesen chain, and passes below the Linterfluh (slate-quarries). 
At (5!/2 M.) Achseten it crosses to the right bank by a bold bridge, 
230' above the torrent. It then passes the Hohe Steg Inn and the 
Pochtenkessel (2 min. below the road, see below) and reaches Hirz- 
boden, where it returns to the left bank near the Armenspital. We 
continue to ascend to (i l /z M.) — 

10 M. Adelboden. — Hotels (in the season it is advisable to secure 
rooms beforehand) : "Grand Hotel-Pension & Curhaes Adelboden, beauti- 
fully situated above the village, R. 3-5, B. iy 2 , dej. 3, D. 4, pens, from 71/2 fr.; 
*H6t.-Peks. Wildstedbel, B. 2'/2-5, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 7-10 fr. ; "Hot.-Pens. 
La Rondinella, R. 2-5, B. l>/4, D. 3-3V2, S. 2'/2-3, pens. 6-10 fr.; -Hot.- 
Pens. Bellevde, pens. 5-12 fr. ; ! 'H6t.-Pens. Adler, R. IV2-2V2, B. I 1 /,, 
D. 3V2, S. 2V2, pens, from 5 fr. ; Tension Edelweiss, pens. 5-7 J /2 fr. ; 
Pension Alpenrdhe, 4-6 fr.; Pens. Alpenrose, 5-6 fr.; Pension Habi zdm 
Schlegeli, 4-5 fr. ; Pension Alpenblick. — Engl. Ch. Serv. in summer. 

Adelboden (4450'; pop. 1546), a large village beautifully situated 
on a s>*iiny terrace, 400' above the Engstligenbach, with a fine view 
of the chain of the Lohner and the Wildstrubel, is much frequented 
as a health and summer resort. It possesses interesting old timber- 
houses and an old church with mediaeval frescoes on its outer walls. 
Adjacent is a venerable maple-tree. Pine-forests near. 

Excorsions (guides, Joh. Pieren; O. Fahndrich, schoolmaster; Christ. & 
G. Barlschi, Christ. German, G. Hager, Joh. and Fritz Sari, Joh. Jaggi, David 
Spori, Sam. Zryd, Chr. Zumhehr, Fritz Allenbach). Short Walks : to the N. , 
through the Aeusser-Schwand to the ( 3 /4 hr.) Biitschegg (4480'; small inn), 
at the mouth of the Tschentm-Thal, commanding a view of the Frutig 
valley and the Niesen chain. The BSrnli (4910'), V* nr - farther up to- 
wards the Tschenten-Alp, commands a still more extensive view. — To 
the (1 hr., path marked in red) Choleren Gorge, in the Tschenten-Graben, 
with a curious grotto excavated by the Tschenten-Bach (wooden bridge; 
entrance from below). Thence an interesting path descends the left bank 
to the (}/i hr.) "Pochtenkessel, a deep gorge of the Engstligenbach, crosses 
to the opposite bank, and ascends to the highroad near the (6 min.) Hohe 
Steg Inn (see above). — To the (1 hr.) Wettertanne or Schermtanne in 
the Allenbach- Thai, via Stiegeltchwand, at the foot of the tremendous preci- 
pices of the Albrist and Gsiir. — To the Bonderlen-Thal and the Lohner 
Waterfalls (2 hrs. to the foot of the cliffs of the Lohner; green way- 
marks) , a charming Alpine dale and a beautiful cascade. Farther up 
towards the Bonder-Alp are abundant rhododendrons. — To the (l>/g hr.) 
•Engstligen Falls (rfmt. hut), a copious waterfall, 490' high, in two leaps 
(the ascent to the imposing upper fall not advisable for novices). To the 



220 III.R.55. — Maps,pp. 170,212. ADELBODEN. 

Engstligen-Alp, see below. — Short Ascents : To the Kuonisbergli [SIKH) 
and Hbchst (6285'), 2>/2 hrs., via. the farm of Boden, a picturesque Alp, 
with rhododendrons ; the Hbchst commands a view of the Adelboden 
valley (guide 3 fr., not indispensable). — To the (2 hrs.) Schwandfehl- 
spitze (6650 1 ; good view), above the village to the W. (guide 4 fr., nol 
indispensable). — To the Regenbolshorn (7200' ; 3 hrs. ; guide 6 fr.), to the 
S.E. of the Hahnenmoos (see below), attractive. — To the (3 hrs.) 'lavei- 
grat (7395' ; guide 6 fr.), by the Hahnenmoos or the Alp Siller en and along 
the Silleren-Grat; fine view of the Bernese Alps and the Vaud and Fri- 
boarg mountains. At the W. foot of the mountain are the Baths of Lenk. 

Longer Mountain Tours: 'Bonderspitz (8360' ; 4 hrs.; guide 8 fr.) and 
Elsighorn (7695'; 5 hrs. ; guide 8 fr., not indispensable), two easy and inter- 
esting ascents. On the Elsigen-Alp (6000') is a small lake, with stone-pines 
in the vicinity. — "Albristhorn (9070'; 4'/2 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.), not difficult; 
fine view of the Bernese and Valaisian Alps. The ascent leads by the 
Furggi-Alp (6870'), and an attractive descent may be made by the Seewkn- 
horn (8300') and the Hahnenmoos (guide 12 fr.), or to the N.W. by the Grimmi 
Alp Pass and Curhaus Grimmi-Alp (p. 221). — Gsiir (8895'; 4'/2 hrs. ; guide 
10 fr.), via Schwandfehl, difficult, for experts only ; fine view of the Bernese 
Alps. — Gross-Lohner (10,020'; 6 hrs. ; guide 25 fr.), over the Hinterberg, a 
fatiguing ascent, for experts only; fine view. — Steghorn (10,340'; 7 hrs. ; 
guide 20 fr.), via the Engstligen-Alp (see below), also very fatiguing. — 'Wild- 
strubel (Gross- Slrubel, or E. summit, 10,670"; 8-9 hrs.; guide 25 fr.), an 
interesting glacier expedition, not especially difficult for adepts. The route 
leads from the (3 hrs.) Engstligen-Alp (see below) via the crevassed Strubel- 
egg Glacier and the Ammerlen Glacier, whence it ascends to the (5-6 hrs.) 
top from the N.W. side, over steep slopes of ice and rock. The summit 
commands an imposing view of the chain of the Valaisian Alps, the Mont 
Blanc group, the Lammern Glacier, etc. The descent may be made over 
the crevassed Lammern Glacier to the Gemmi (p. 215; guide 35 fr), or 
(very steep and fatiguing) viS. the Ammerten Glacier to the upper part of 
the Ammerten-Thali, the chalets of the Rdtzliberg, and Lenk (p. 224), or over 
the Glacier de la Plaine Morte to the Rawyl Pass (p. 226), or to Montana 
(p. 333). — Felsenhorn (9175'; 7 hrs. ; guide 12 fr.), via the Engstligcn-Qrat 
(see below) ; fine view of the environs of the Gemmi, and of the Bernese 
and Valaisian Alps. — "Mannlifiuh (8705'; &% hrs.; guide 12 fr.), via, Rin- 
derwald and Otterngrat (p. 222), also interesting; better ascended from the 
Curhaus Grimmi-Alp in 4-5 hrs. (see p. 221). 

Passes. To Lenk (p. 224) a path, marshy at places, leads over the 
Hahnenmoos (6410 1 ), passing a large dairy near the top, in 3'/2 hrs. (guide 7, 
horse 15 fr.). Beautiful view, on the descent, of the upper Simmen-Thal, 
the Wildstrubel, the Weisshorn, and the Ratzli Glacier. — Over the Am- 
merten Pass (8030'), 8 hrs. (guide 12 fr.), trying, see p. 225. 

From Adelboden to Kandersteo, an interesting route over the Bonder 
Krinden (8300') or the AUmengrat (8300'), 6-6V2 hrs. (guide 10 fr.), with 
which the ascent of the Bonderspitz (see above) may be combined. — To 
Schwarenbach , rather fatiguing (7-8 hrs. ; guide 12 fr.), via the Bonder 
Krinden, Veschinen-Alp, and Schwarzgratli (see below). — To the Gemmi 
over the Engstligen-Grat, 7-8 hrs., a fine route (new path ; guide not in- 
dispensable for adepts). From Adelboden we ascend to the S. by the 'Geiss- 
weg' (now improved ; wire-rope at places), passing the (2 l /t hrs.) Engttligtn 
Falls (p. 219), or by the steep and stony 'Kuhweg' to the (3 hrs.) Engstligen- 
Alp (6360'; small inn), a broad Alpine basin at the base of the Wildstrubel 
(see above). We then cross the (2 : /2 hrs.) Engstligen-Grat (8590 1 ), passing the 
serrated Tschingellochtighorn (8990'), and descend into the Ueschinen-Thali, 
with its little lake (far below to the left lies the Oeschinen-Thal). Then to 
the left, over the Schwarzgratli (8845'), to (2 hrs.) Schwarenbach (p. 214); 
or we may ascend to the right, past the little Ueschinen- Thdli-See (7885') and 
over the Ueschinen-Thali Glacier, on the W. side of the Felsenhorn (see 
above), to the arete (8635'), and descend the Rothe Kumme to the Daubensee 
and (3 hrs.) the Gemmi Pass. Rich Alpine flora, with abundant edelweiss. 



221 
56. From Spiez to Saanen through the Simmen-Thal. 

32 M. From Spiez to Erlenbach (7Va M.) Railway in l fe hr. (fares, 2nd cl. 
1 fr. 20, 3rd cl. 85 c). — From Erlenbach to Saanen (24V2 M.), Diligence 
twice daily in 6 hrs. ; fare 5 fr. 85. coupe 7 fr. 80 c. (to Weissenbnrg 1 fr. 
or 1 fr. 8") c. ; Zweisimraen 3 fr. 75 c. or 5 fr.). — One-horse carr. from 
Thnn to Weissenburg 15, two- horse 25 fr., to Zweisimmen 28 or 50, to 
Saanen 35 or 60, to Chateau-d'Oex 40 or 70, to Aigle 80 or 150 fr. — The 
road through the Simmen-Thal and over the Col de Pillon to the Lake of 
Geneva is an excellent one for cyclists. 

Spiez, see p. 174. — The railway diverges to the left from the 
Thun line (p. 173), descends past Spiezmoos in a wide bend, crosses 
the Kander (splendid view of the Bliimlis-Alp to the left) , and 
traverses the Wimmis-AUmend to (3 M.) Wimmis (2075'; *L'6we; 
*Buffet), at the N.W. base of the Niesen (p. 172). It then passes 
through a romantic defile (Port) between the Simmenfluh and the 
Burgfluh into the Simmen-Thal (locally, l Sieben-ThaV\ a fertile 
valley with numerous villages. 6*/4 M. Oey-Diemtigen, with the 
village of Oey (*Bar) on the left. To the right, Latterbach, on the 
left bank of the Simme. 

Fkom Oey to Matten (p. 22i), a shorter and very interesting route (7 hrs.) 
leads through the picturesque Diemtig-Thal, with beautiful meadows and 
pineforests, above which tower rocky mountains. A new road leads to the 
Grimmi Alp Curhaus (8V2M.1 diligence in summer twice daily in 2V2hrs., 

3 fr. 40 c). A carriage from the Curhaus will be sent to Oey station, if 
ordered in advance (fare to the Curhaus, 1 pers. 6, 2 pers. 10, 3 or more 

4 fr. each, down, 5, 8, 3 fr., there and back on the same day, 9, 12, 5 fr.). 
The road, from which another, diverging to the right after 3 U M., leads to 
the (l'/4 M.) prettily situated village of Diemtigen (2655'; Hirsch), runs 
along the right bank of the foaming Eirel, and through wood to the 
(2V4 M.) Horboden Inn (2705'), where the valley divides into the Kirel- 
Thal, to the S., and the Filderich- Thai, to the S.W. The road crosses the 
Kirel and ascends rapidly on the left bank of the Filderich, skirting the 
cliffs of the Ki/chjinh and passing the C/4 M.) Bochten Fall, in a gloomy ravine 
to the left. Beyond Wampffen we reach the scattered village of (2'/j M.) 
Zwisahenfluh (3280'), in the midst of grand mountain scenery (to the S.W. 
the imposing Schurtenfluh). At the hamlet of ( 3 /4 M.) Tschuepis (3445'), the 
valley again divides. To the right is the lonely Maniggrund, while in 
front opens the picturesque Schwenden- Thai, with the (2 J /4 M.) — 

"Curhaus Grimmi Alp (4135' ; pens. 7-12 fr.), a health-resort with mineral 
springs, finely situated on the Schwendenegg, a spur of the Arvenhom (6395'). 
To the W. rise the Seehorn and the Spillgerten ; to the S. the Kalberhorn, 
Eothhorn, and Gsiir ; to the E. the Mannlifluh, Thierlaufhorn, and Twierien- 
horn; to the N. the Hohmad and Schurtenfluh. Fine mountain pines 
and maples stand near the hotel, and there are extensive woods in the 
Vicinity. The milch-kine of the Grimmi Alp are celebrated. — Excursions : 
'Seehorn (Riithihom. 7420'; 3 hrs.; guide desirable). The route leads via 
the (1 hr.) Alp (4725') and the Oh nr ) Upper Kummli Alp (5550'), beyond 
which it skirts the rocky slopes of the Gyrenhorn, (6195') and ascends by 
the (V2 hr.) N. arete of the Seehorn to (I hr.) the top. Magnificent and 
picturesque "View of the whole Diemtig-Thal as far as the Lake of Thun, 
and of the High Alps from the Titlis to the Dent du Midi and Mont Blanc. 
Eich Alpine flora (edelweiss). — "Mannlifluh (8705'; 4-5 hrs.; guide not 
necessary for experts), not difficult and very interesting. We either follow 
the path to the (2 hrs.) Ober-Ourbs-Alp (6270'), then traverse the Biitschenen- 
binder (narrow ledges covered with debris), and finally ascend to (2 hrs.) 
the summit ; or (easier) we may proceed by the (1 hr.) Filderich Alp (4330'), 
the (1 hr.) Mitlelberg Alp (5640') , and the (8/4 hr.) Oberberg Alp (6365') to 
the (8/4 hr.) Oberthal But (7135'), and then ascend the grassy slopes on the 



222 III. R. 56. — Map, p. 1 72. WEISSENBURG. From Spiez 

W.'side of the Minnlifluh , and up step-like grassy ledges (steep but not 
difficult) to (IV2 hr.) the top. The '"Panorama is one of the finesHin 
Switzerland. — The Spillgerlen (8133' ; guide and rope essential; 4 hrs. from 
the Curhaus) and the Gsiir (8895'; 5-6 hrs., with guide) are both difficult and 
fit for experts only. — Fkom the Cdrhaos Grimmi Alp to Zweisimmen over 
the MSniggrat (ea. 6630'), 4 1 /2hrs., with guide, fatiguing. We ascend steeply 
through wood to (IV2 hr.) the pastures of the Mdniggrat, and then descend 
to the (V2 hr.) Seeberg-Alp (5920'), near the pretty Seeberg-See. Thence a 
footpath leads to the (V2 hr.) chalet of Stieren- Seeberg and to (2 hrs.) Zwei- 
simmen (p. 223). — To Adelboden by the Otterngrat (7485'J. 6 hrs.. with 
suide, attractive ; beautiful view of the Bernese Alps. — To Matten in 
the Simmen-Thal, 4 hrs., easy and interesting. A good path ascends by the 
Nidegg Alp and through the Grimmibach-Thal to (H/4 hr.) the Obere Grimmi 
Alp (5730'), with a large chalet, and over pastures to the ( 3 /i hr.) Grimmi 
Alp Pass (6645'), between the Rauflihorn (7625'; easily ascended in 3/ 4 hr.) 
on the left, and the rugged Grimmi Alp Rothhorn (7910') on the right. The 
view to the S., comprising the Albristhorn, Rawylhorn, Riitzli Glacier, 
Wildhorn, Diablerets, and the mountains of the Saane-Thal, is very striking. 
We descend via, the (5 min.) Blutlig-Alp (651(f), whence the Albritthom (907U') 
may be ascended in 3*/2 hrs., with guide (trying, but very attractive; see 
p. 220), and through the charming Fermel-Thal to (13/ 4 hr.) Matten (p. 224). 

We now cross the Kirel (p. 221) and the Simme to (7^2 M.) 
Erlenbach (2320'), the present terminus of the railway [Hotel- 
Pension Alpina, just above the station, with view, well spoken of); 
the village (2360' ; Krone, Lowe, R. 2-4, D. 3, S. 21/2- pens. 5-8 fr., 
both unpretending; Pens. Dr. Portmanri), with its neat wooden 
houses, lies to the right, above the station. 

The '-Stoekhorn (7195') may be ascended hence by a new path (guide 
not indispensable) in 4'/2 hrs. (new Inn 5 min. below the top, to the S.). 
Grand view and splendid flora. The ascent may also be made on the 
N. side from Ober-Stocken (2270'; Bar, rustic), 2 M. to the W. of Amsol- 
dingen (p. 171), or from Blumenstein (p. 171) by the Oberwal-Alp (5640' ; new 
chalet, dear) in 4 J /2 hrs. An alternative descent leads by the Vntcrwal-Alp 
(4567') to Bad Weissenburg, which is reached by means of ladders. 

The High Road (railway in construction ; diligence and carriages, 
see p. 221) follows the left bank of the Simme to — 

33/ 4 M. Weissenburg (2418'; * Hotel- Pension Weissenburg, R. 
2-3, B. IV4, D. 3, pens, from 6 fr.), a group of neat houses. 

In a steep and narrow defile, i 1 ^ M. to the N.W., lies the Weissen- 
burg-Bad (2770'). The mineral water, impregnated with sulphate of lime 
(70°; at its source 81") and beneficial for bronchial affections, is used for 
drinking only. The Neue Bad, burned down in 1898, has been rebuilt 
(R. 3-7, board 8 fr.); the Alte Bad is buried in the ravine l /t M. higher up 
(pension 1st class 7-9, 2nd cl. 5-6 fr.). — From the Neue Bad a pleasant 
walk may be taken to (V2 hr.) Weissenburgberg or Oberweissenbwg (3280'; 
Stern, good and cheap), in an open and attractive situation, with fine 
view of the Simmen-Thal. The Fluhberg (the W. spur of the Stoekhorn, 
4685') is ascended thence in l-H/4 hr. (easy and interesting). 

Feom Weissenburg to the Gcenigel-Bad (6 hrs.). Attractive path 
through the Klus, passing the Morgetenbach Fall, 200' high, and the Mor- 
geten-Alp to the (3V2 hrs.) Burglen-Sattel (6435'); then down (avoid the 
path to Bad Schwefelberg, l'A M. to the left) to the (V4 hr.) Gantriieh Past 
(5215'), and over the Gwnigelberg to the (l 1 /? hr.) Gurnigtl-Bad (p. 1GS). 

6 M. Oberwil. — 91/2 M. Boltigen (2726'; pop. 1852; *H6t. 
Simmenthal ; Bar , moderate) , a thriving village with handsome 
houses, is reached beyond the Simmenegg or Enge, a defile formed 
by two rocks. Above rise the two peaks of the Mittagfluh (6198')- 



to Saanen. ZWEISIMMEN. Maps,pp.l72,280.—III.R.56. 223 

To the left peep the snow-fields to the E. of the Rawyl (p. 226). 

The coal-mines in a side-valley near Reidenbach (2755'; 3 / 4 M. from 

Boltigen) account for the sign of the inn (a miner). 

From Reidenbach to Bulle , 25 M. A little above Reidenbach the 
road diverges to the right and ascends in windings (which paths cut off) 
to the (6 M.) pass of the Bruchberg (4940'; tavern). It then descends (pre- 
ferable to the bad footpath) to (4 M.) Jaun, Fr. Bellegarde (3335'; H6t. 
de la Cascade), a pretty village with a ruined castle and a waterfall 
86' high. [Path to the Schwarzsee - Bad via the Ritzelen and Neuscheli, 
3 hrs., see below. — A cart-track to the S. ascends the left bank of the 
Jaunbach to (IV2 hr.) Ablandschen (4280' ; inn) , at the foot of the bare 
rocky chain of the Gastlose (6542'). Easy passes thence to the S. over the 
Grubenberg (5413'), to the S.E. of the Dent de Ruth (7345'), to (3 hrs.) Saanen, 
and over the Schliindi to (2'/2 hrs.) Richenstein (see below).] A diligence 
plies from Jaun to Bulle daily in 3V3 hrs. — The road traverses the beautiful 
pastures of the Jaunthal or Bellegarde Valley , which yield excellent 
Gruyere cheese (see p. 224), crosses the Jaunbach (Jogne) at La Tzintre, and 
reaches (7>A M.) Charmey, Ger. Galmis (2955'; "Hit. du Sapin, pens. 5-7 fr. ; 
Marichal Ferrant, pens. 5 fr. ; Pent, du Chalet), a large village and summer- 
resort, charmingly situated. Fine view from the church. The road goes 
on via Cre'sus, Chdtel, and the ruin of Montsalvens (rare flora), crosses the 
Jaun, and beyond Broc (2380'; H6t. de Ville, pens. 4-6 fr.), at the foot of 
the Dent de Broc (6005'; 3 hrs.; fine view), the Sarine, and leads through 
wood to La Tour-de-Treme (p. 279) and (7i/z M.) Bulle (p. 279). — From 
Cre'sus (see above) a pleasant route leads by Cerniat and the old monastery of 
Valsainte (3335'), and over the Chisalette (4659'), to the (3'/2 hrs.) Schwarzsee- 
Bad (p. 240). On the Kalte Sense, 4 hrs. to the N.E. of the Schwarzsee 
(diligence daily in summer from Freiburg via Plaffeien ; 20 M., in 5'/3 hrs.), 
are the well-kept Baths of Schwefelberg (4585'; pens. 4'/2-5 fr.), with lime 
springs, at the foot of the Ochsen (7185' ; 2Vi>hrs. ; fine view). Thence over 
the Seelibuhlgrat to the (2V2 hrs.) Gumigel-Bad (p. 168); bridle-path over the 
Gantrisch Pass (p. 222) to (3 hrs.) Bad Blumenslein (p. 171). To the N.W. of 
the Schwefelberg-Bad, in a sheltered situation on the slope of the Pfeife 
(see below), is the frequented Ottenleue-Bad (4695'; pens. 5 fr.), with 
mineral springs. It may be reached from Freiburg via Plaffeien and Sangern- 
boden in 5 hrs., or from Bern via Schwarzenburg and Ryffenmatt ("Hirsch) in 
7-8 hrs. The bath9 afford a beautiful view of the Stockhorn range; a more 
extensive view is obtained from the 0/2 hr.) Pfeife (5415') and the (l'/4 hr.) 
Schipfenfluh (5745'). Via the Seelibiihl to Gumigel-Bad (see p. 169), 3'/2 hrs. 

11 M. Weissenbach. The road crosses the Simme at (2M.) Qar- 
statt, turns suddenly to the left, round the Laubeggstalden rock, 
passing a fine waterfall, recrosses the stream, and leads past the ruin 
of Mannenberg to — 

I51/2 M. Zweisimmen (3215'; pop. 2070; *H6t. Simmenthal, 
R. 2-4, B. 2V4, dej. 2»/ 2 , D - 3 V2, P ens - 6-10 fr.; *Krone, with 
grounds, R. 2-3, B. 1, D. 3, pens. 5 fr. ; Bar), the chief village in the 
valley, with an old church, situated in a broad basin on the Kleine 
Simme. It is famed for its cattle and frequented as a summer-resort. 
Pleasant views from the churchyard, and from Sehloss Blankenburg, 
V2hr. to the S.E., now used as public offices and a prison (p. 224). 

Excursions. The "Hundsriick (6720 1 ), easily climbed in 3 hrs., com- 
mands a grand view of Mont Blanc, the Grand Combin, and the Bernese, 
Freiburg, and Vaudois Alps. — The "fijederberg (6825'; 3 hrs.), also easy, 
is another fine point of view. 

The road ascends gradually for 5 M., crossing the Schliindibach 
at (3^2 M.) Richenstein. (To Ablandschen, see above.) In a pine-clad 



224 III. R 57.— Maps,pp. 172,280. LENK. 

valley on the left flows the Kleine Simme. The road crosses several 
deep lateral ravines. At the top of the hill (4227'; inn) begin the 
Saanen-Moser, a broad Alpine valley, sprinkled with chalets and 
cottages. Near (22 M.) Schonried (4025') and farther down a 
striking view is gradually disclosed of the frowning Rublihorn 
(7570'), the barometer of the district, the serrated Gummfluh 
(8068'), the snow-fields of the Sanetsch beyond it, and lastly the huge 
Oelten Glacier (p. 276) to the left. 

241/2 M. Saanen, Fr. Gessenay (3382'; pop. 3733; Grand 
Logis or Gross- Landhaus ; Pens. Grunigen; Ours, unpretending) is the 
capital of the upper valley of the Saane (Sarine). The inhabitants 
rear cattle and manufacture the famous Gruyere and Vacherin cheese. 

To Gsteig, and over the Col de Pillon to Aigle, see p. 276; over the 
Sanetsch to Sion, see p. 277. 

From Saanen to ChIteao-d'CEx (p. 280), 7 M.; diligence twice daily 
in IV3 hr., by Rougemont or Rothenberg (Tens, du Rubli), Flendruz, and 
Les Oranges. Rougemont is on the border between Bern and Vaud, and 
between the German and French languages. 



57. From Spiez to Lenk and to Sion over the Rawyl. 

I672 nri. Railway from Spiez to Erlenbach,V/-zM.., in Vj hr.; Diligence 
from Erlenbach to Lenk (24 M.) twice daily in 5 hrs. (5 fr. 85 c., coupe 
7 fr. 80 c). One-horse carr. from Thun to Lenk 40, two-horse 60 fr. From 
Lenk to Sion (IOV2 hrs.) Bridle Path; guide desirable (to Sion 20 fr.; horse 
30 fr.). As far as Lenk the road is good fur cycling. 

To (23 M.) Zweisimmen, see pp. 221-223. The Lenk road 
crosses the Simme near Gwatt, and ascends the Upper Simmen- Thai 
by Bettelried, passing Schloss Blankenburg on the right (p. 223), 
to (27 M.) St. Stephan (3297'; Adler), Grode i , (2872 M.) Matten 
(inn), at the mouth of the Fermel-Thal (p. 222), and — 

317 2 M. Lenk (3527'; pop. 1750; *H5t.-Pens. Hirsch, R.lVs-3, 
B. 1, pens. 5-7 fr. ; *Krone. R. 2y 2 fr., B. 1 fr. 20 c, pens, from 
5 fr. ; *Stem , pens. 5 fr. ; Bar; Pens. Victoria, 1 M. to the N. of 
the village , on the road to Zweisimmen), a village rebuilt since a 
fire in 1878 , situated in a flat and somewhat marshy part of the 
valley. About 72 M - t0 tne S W. lies the *Curanstalt Lenk (3625'; 
R. 2-6, D. 372, S. 21/2, pens. 8-127 2 , in June & Sept. 7-8 fr.), with 
well fitted-up sulphur-baths and grounds. The Wildstrubel (10,670'), 
with its huge precipices and glaciers, whence several streams 
descend, forms a grand termination to the valley. 

Excursions. (Guides, Bans and Herm. Jaggi; Gottlieb Ltidin.) The 
Simme rises. 6 M. to the S. of Lenk, in the so-called Siebenbrunnen, to which 
an interesting walk may be taken (4 hrs. there and back). Road (passing on 
the left the Burgjiuh, an isolated nummulite rock with a 'glacier mill', 
and view of the Wildhorn) by Oberried (inn) to the (f/4 hr.) Saw Mill 
(3668') at the end of the level part of the valley. A path now ascends 
close to the mill, between alders, in a curve on the right bank of the 
Simme, skirting a deep gorge with fine waterfalls. It passes the chalits 
of Stalden (4232'), traverses pastures, and crosses the Ammertenbach and the 
Laubbach to (1 hr.) the chalets of the Ratzliberg (4583 1 ; Fridig's Inn, small). 
To the S., the ' Siebenbrunnen' (4744'), now in a single stream, is«ue from 



WILDSTRUBEL. Maps, pp. 280, 212. — III. R. 57. 225 

the precipitous rocks of the Fhihhorn (8025'). Farther to the left is the 
Upper Fall of the Simme, which is conspicuous from a long distance. To 
the right rise the Gletscherhorn (9672') and Laufbodenhorn (8878'), to the 
left the Ammertenhorn (8713'). 

The Oberlaubhorn (6570'; with guide ; easy and repaying), to the W. 
of the Ratzliberg, is ascended from Lenk, either hy Trogegg (3196') in 
3'/2 hrs., or by Poschenried and the Ritzberg Alp (5710') in 4 hrs. ; descent 
by the Ratzliberg, Stalden, and Oberried. — The *Mulkerblatt (6355'; 
2'/2 hrs. ; guide 5 fr.) affords a superb view of the Wildstrubel, etc. 
Beyond the Curhaus we ascend the left bank of the Krummbach, (10 min.) 
cross it, traverse pastures_and wood, passing several chalets, and mount 
the Bettelberg to the top. " 

The Ifflgensee (6825'; 4 hrs. ; guide 8 fr., unnecessary) is also worth 
seeing. By the (274 hrs.) Iffigen Inn (p. 226) we turn to the right to the 
(V2 hr.) Stieren-Iffigen-Alp (5512' ; rfmts.). The path, steep and stony at 
places, then ascends the (1 hr.) saddle bounding the lake, and skirts the 
lake to the right (where edelweiss abounds) to the (Vt hr.) shepherd's hut 
at the W. end. — At the base of the Niesenhorn (9110'), 3 A hr. higher up, 
is the Wildhorn Club Hut (7550'), from which the "Wildhorn "(10,705') is 
ascended in 3-3'Ai hrs. (at places steep and laborious ; guide from Lenk 25, 
with descent to the Sanetsch Pass 30, to Sion 35 fr.). We ascend the moraine 
of the DungellOlacier and the E. slope of the Kirchli (9157') to the top of 
the glacier, whence a gentle incline leads to the E. summit, which is con- 
nected by a snow-clad arete, 300 yds. long, with the equally high W. summit. 
Splendid view of Mt. Blanc, Grand Combin, the Valaisian and Bernese Alps, 
' the Diablerets, Oldenhorn, and Dent du Midi; to the W. are the Vaudois 
Alps, to the ~S. the Freiburg Alps ; farther off are the Jura, Black Forest, 
and Vosges. Descent, if preferred, to the S., by the Glacier du Brozet, to 
Zanfleuron (272-3 hrs. ; see p. 277). 

The < Rohrbachstein (9690'; 672 hrs. ; guide 15 fr.) is not difficult. From 
the (4 hrs.) Rawyl Pass (p. 226) we mount to the left to the (I72 hr.) 
saddle between the Rohrbachstein and the Wetzsteinhorn, and the (1 hr.) 
top. Splendid view. Fossils found here. — The Mitlaghom (8S15' ; 5 hrs. ; 
guide 10 fr.), the Niesenhom (9110'; 6 hrs.; 12 fr.), and the Weisshorn (9693'; 
7 hrs. ; 15 fr.) are also easily ascended. 

The Wildstrubel (W. peak 10,665'; central peak 10,655'; E. peak or Grost- 
Strubel, 10,670') is best ascended from the Rawyl Pass. From the (2 hrs.) 
Iffigen Inn (spend night) to the Rawyl 2 hrs. ; thence we ascend to the left 
to the snow-arete between the Weisshorn and the Rohrbachstein (272 hrs.), 
cross the Glacier de la Plaine Morte, and mount snowy slopes to the W. 
summit in 272 hrs., and the central peak in 7" nr - more (from Iffigen 
772 hrs. in all). Guide from Lenk 27, down to the Gemmi 30 fr. — From 
the Ratzliberg (p. 224) a steep path ascends the Fluhwande above the 
Siebenbrunnen to the (2 hrs.) Fluhseeli (6710') ; thence over de'bris, moraine, 
and the Ratzli Glacier to the W. peak (4 hrs. ; guide 25 fr.). — ;A third route 
(toilsome) ascends steeply from the (272 hrs.) Ritzberg Alp (see above; bed 
of hay) past the Laufbodenhorn (8878 1'), by the Thierberg and the Thierberg 
Glacier., and past the Gletscherhorn (9672') to the Ratzli Glacier and to the 
W. peak (6 hrs. from Ritzberg). Descent to the N.W. by the Ammerten 
Glacier, difficult; or to the E. over the crevassed Lammern Glacier to the 
(3 hrs.) Gemmi (p. 215); or to the N/over the Strubelegg Glacier to the Engst- 
ligen-Alp and Adelboden (p. 220). 

From Lenk to Gsteig (7 hrs.) : over the Triittlisberg (6713') to (472 hrs.) 
lauenen (p. 276) , and thence over the Erinnen (5463') to (272 hrs.) Gsteig 
(p. 277) ; an easy and interesting route (guide 12, horse 25 fr. ; see R. 67). 

From Lenk to Saanen (p. 226), 6 hrs., path over the RevMssenberg or 
Zwitzer Egg (5635'), and down the Turbach-Thal (guide 8 fr.). — To Adel- 
boden over the Hahnenmoos (guide 8, horse 15 fr.), see p. 220. By the Am- 
mertenPass (8032'), to the S.E. of the Ammerten- Grat (8580'), fatiguing but 
interesting (8 hrs. ; guide). 

BaedekeE, Switzerland. 19th Edition. 15 



226 III. R. 57. — Maps, pp. 212, :>76. RAWYL. 

The Rawyl Route (at first a road) ascends the W. side of the 
valley to (l'^M.) the left bank of the Jffigenbach and the smiling 
Pdschenried-Thal. The road ends 2 M. farther on (about 4200'). 
By the fine (5 min.) Iffigen Fall the bridle-path ascends to the 
right. After 20 min. we turn, above the fall, into a wooded valley, 
through which the Iffigenbach dashes down its narrow rocky bed, 
and traverse a level dale (with the precipices of the Rawyl on the 
left) to the (1/2 ftr Iffigen-Alp (5253' ; rustic Inn). Here, to the 
left (finger-post), we ascend through a small wood on a stony slope, 
skirt the rocks , cross (10 min.) a brook , and reach (50 min.) the 
refuge-hut on the Platten, whence we overlook the Simmen-Thal. We 
skirt the W. side of ( 3 / 4 hr.) the little Rawyl-See (7743') and reach 
(Y4 hr.) a cross (la Grande Croix), which marks the boundary of Bern 
and Valais and the summit of the Rawyl (7943'; 4'/ 4 hrs. from Lenk), 
with a refuge-hut. The pass is a desolate stony plateau (Plan des 
Roses) , enclosed by lofty and partially snow - clad mountains : 
to the W. the long Alittaghorn (8815'); S.W., the Schneidehorn 
(9640') and the snow -clad Wildhorn (10,705'; p. 225); S., the 
broad Rawylhorn (9540') and the Wetzsteinhorn (9114'); E., the 
Rohrbachstein (9690'; p. 225) and Weisshom (9690'). 

Beyond the pass the path leads past a second little lake to 
( 3 /4hr.)the margin of the S. slope (les Hors), which affords a limited, 
but striking view of the Valais mountains. We descend a steep rocky 
slope (leaving the dirty chalets of Armillon, 6925', to the left), and 
(i/^br-) 01088 a bridge in the valley (5970'; beyond it, a good spring). 
Instead of descending to the left to the chalets of Nieder-Rawyl 
[Les Ravins, 5768'), we ascend slightly by a narrow path to the 
right, and skirt the hillside. Then (25 min.) a steep ascent, to 
avoid the Kandle (see below) ; 20 min., a cross on the top of the 
hill (6330'), whence we descend to (^ nr Praz Combeira (5346'), 
a group of huts. Lastly a long, fatiguing descent by a rough, stony 
path, ascending at places, to (l 1 ^ nr Ayent (3400'; quarters at 
the cure's, good wine, or at the merchant Mosoni's). 

The footpath from Nieder-Rawyl to Ayent, shorter by 1 hr., leads by 
the 'Kandlk' (i.e. channel), Fr. Sentier du Biise, along the edge of a water- 
conduit skirting a steep slope 1300' high. Being only f wide, the path is 
only fit for steady heads, and is dangerous at places. 

From Ayent by Grimisuat (2895') and Champion to (2 hrs.) Sion 

(1710'), or to (I1/4 hr.) St. Leonard, see p. 332. 



IV. WESTERN SWITZERLAND. LAKE OF GENEVA. 
LOWER VALLEY OF THE RHONE. 



Comp. Maps, pp. 230, 234, 2t2, 254, 256, 266, 276, 280, 286. 



58. From Bern to Neuchatel 228 

Chaumont, 231. 

59. From Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds and Locle . . . 231 

Tete de Rang. Pouillerel. Col des Loges. Cotes du Doubs, 
232. — From Chaux-de-Fonds to Bienne through the Val 
St. Imier. From Locle to Morteau and to Les Brenets ; 
Saut dn Doubs, 233. 

60. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier through theValde Tracers 233 

Creux du Vent. Ravine of the Raisse, 234. 

61. From Neuchatel to Lausanne 235 

Gorges de la Reuse. From Yverdon to Ste. Croix, 236. — 
Chasseron, 237. 

62. From Bern to Lausanne 237 

From Flamatt to Laupen , 238. — From Freiburg to 
Yverdon and to Morat. Schwarzsee-Bad. Berra, 240. — 
From Romont to Bulle. Signal de Chexbres. From Chex- 
bres to Vevey, 241. 

63. From Lausanne to Payerne and Lyss 241 

From Morat to Neuchatel, 243. 

64. From Lausanne to Vallorbe and Pontarlier .... 243 

From Vallorbe to Le Pont. Dent de Vaulion; Lac de 
Joux. Ballaigues, 244. 

65. Geneva and its Environs 244 

Pregny: Ferney; Bois dela Batie; Saleve; Voirons, etc., 
254-25T. 

66. From Geneva to Martigny via Lausanne andVilleneuve. 
Lake of Geneva (North Bank) 257 

Divonne, 258. — The Dole. From Rolle to Gimel. Signal 
de Bougy, 259. — Col du Marchairuz. From Morges to 
Biere, 260. — From Lausanne to Bercher, 263. — Haute- 
ville and Blonay ; the Ple'iades; Mt. Pdlerin, etc., 265. — 
Excursions from Montreux: Glion; Rochers de Naye; 
Gorge du Chauderon; Les Avants, etc., 268, 269. — From 
Allaman via Aubonne to Gimel, 271. — From Aigle to 
Leysin. Corbeyrier, 272. — From Bex to Les Plans de 
Frenieres and Pont de Nant. Glacier de Plan NeVe; 
Tete a Pierre Grept ; Croix de Javernaz ; Dent de Morcles ; 
Grand Moeveran ; Diablerets; Col des Essets, 273, 274. — 
Baths of Laveys Morcles; Pissevache; Gorges du Trient, 
275. — Arpille ; Pierre-a-Voir, 276.1 

67. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon .... 276 

The Lauenen-Thal, 276. — From Gsteig to Sion over the 
Sanetsch. Excursions from Ormont-Dessus : Creux-de- 
Champ, Palette, Pointe de Meilleret, La Paraz, 277. — 
Oldenhorn, Diablerets, etc. From Ormont-Dessus to 
Villars or Gryon over the Col de la Croix, 278. 



15 



* 



228 IV. Route 58. INS. 



68. From Bulle to Chateau-d'Oex and Aigle 278 

Hontbarry. Ascent of the Mole'son from Bulle or Albeuve. 
Chatel St. Denis, 279. — From Montbovon over the 
Jaman to Montreux, 280. — Excursions from Chateau- 
d'Oex. Mont Cray; Gummfluh, 281. 

69. From Bex to Gryon and Villais 281 

Excursions from Gryon. Via the Pas de Cheville to 
Sion, 282. — Excursions from Villars. Chamossaire, 283. 

70. From Geneva to St. Maurice via Bouveret. Lake of 
Geneva (South Bank). Val d'llliez 283 

From Thonon to Les Gets and Taninges. Valleys of the 
Drance. To Samoens over the Col de Jouplane; to Cham- 
pe>y over the Pas de Chesery. From Thonon to Mor- 
gans via Abondance, 28i. — Dent d'Oche. Blanchard, 285. 
— Grammont. Cornettes de Bise, 286. — Excursions 
from Champery: Pointe de l'Haut; Culet; Dent du Midi; 
Tour Sallieres; Dents Blanches. From Champery to 
Samoens and to Sixt. Cols de Coux, de la Golese, de 
Sagerou, de Susanfe, and d'Emaney, 2S7, 288. 



58. From Bern to Neuch&tel. 

27 M. Railway in 1-1 1/2 hr. (fares 4 fr. 30, 3 fr. 5, 2 fr. 15 c). 

Bern, p. 160. The line diverges to the right from the Lausanne 
railway (p. 237) and leads via, (3 M.) Bumplitz- Bethlehem to (5y 2 M.) 
Biedbach. On a hill to the right, beyond the valley of the Gabelbach, 
is Frauenkappelen, with a suppressed Benedictine monastery. The 
line traverses woods and meadows to (7^2 M.) Rosshausern, threads 
a tunnel 1200 yds. in length, and crosses the Saane, or Sarine, by 
a handsome viaduct. 11 M. Gummenen and (12 M.) Ferenbalm- 
Gurbru are each followed by a short tunnel. 14!/4 M. Kerzers (Ft. 
Chibtres), the junction of the railway from Lyss to Payerne (p. 243). 
"We now cross the Grosse Moos, a large morass which has been 
partly reclaimed, to (17 M.) Miintschemier. — I8V2 M. Ins, Fr. 
Anet (1633'; Ours), a large village with beautiful views of the Lakes 
of Neuchatel and Morat and of the range of the Alps. — Beyond 
(21 M.) Gampeltn (Fr. Champion), at the S. foot of the Jolimont 
(p. 14), the railway crosses the Thiele or Zihl, the boundary of Canton 
Neuchatel . To the left we have a fine view of the Lake of Neuchatel ; 
to the right lies Monmirail, with a girls' school. — 23 M. Marin- 
Epagnier. Near Marin (*Pens. Nussle) are the famous lake-dwellings 
of La Tine, a name applied to the pre-Roman civilization of the 
iron age among the Celtic races on the N. side of the Alps. To the 
S.E., on the lake, is the lunatic asylum of Prefargier. — At (24 M.) 
St. Blaise (p. 14) the train reaches the Lake of Neuchatel (1420'), 
the Roman Lacus Eburodunensis (25 M. long, 4-6 M. broad; greatest 
depth 500')- Near the N.E. end the Thiele or Zihl issues from the 
lake, the level of which has been lowered 6' by the widening of this 
outlet. Above the vine-clad W. bank rise the Jura Mts., and to the E. 
we enjoy a view of the Alps from the Bernese Oberland to Mont Blanc. 



NEUCHATEL. IV. Route 58. 229 

27 M. Neuch&tel. — Railway Station (1585'; buffet), above the town, 
1 M. from the lake. An Electric Tramway (fares 20, 10 c.) descends in 9 min. 
to the harbour (Port; PI. C, 3). Thence a steam-tramway runs to the W., 
past the station of Evole (PI. A, 4), to Colombier, Cortaillod, and Boudry 
(p. 235), and an electric tramway to the E. to St. Blaise (p. 228). — 
Steamboats on the Lake of Neuchatel, see pp. 240, 243. 

Hotels. *Gband-H6tel Bellevue (PI. a; C, 4), in an open situation on 
the lake, R. 4-6, B. l'/ 2 , dej. 4, D. 5. pens. 8-10. omnibus 1 fr.= s Hot. 
Tebminus (PI. e; E, 1), by the station, R. 3-5, B. I1/2, dej. 372, D. 4, pens, 
from 7 fr., with a terrace ("View) in common with the adj oining Hot. des 
Alpes (cheaper, with cafe-restaurant) ; "'Gband-Hotel do Lao (PI. b ; C, 3), 
R. 3-4, dej. 31/2, D. 4, pens. 7-9, omnibus »/« fr.; 'Faucon (PL c; B, 3), 
R. 2-4, B. 11/4, D. 3, pens. 8-10 fr. ; »H6t. du Soleil (PL d; B, 3, 4), R. 2-2i/ 2 , 

B. 1, D. incl. wine 3, S. incl. wine 2V2, pens. 8-872 fr.; Hot. dd Poet (PI. f ; 

C, 3). — "Pens. Boeel ( Villa Surville), well situated above the town, pens. 
4-5 fr. ; Pens. Hdgoenin, Route de la Cote 40, pens. 572-6 fr., well spoken of. 

Cafes. Cafi-Brasserie Strauss, by the harbour; Chalet du Jardin Anglais 
(PI. E, 2) ; Brasserie Gambriwus. — Baths at the harbour (PL D, 3). 
English Church, Rue Colle'giale (Rev. J. H. H. Best, B. A.). 

Neuchatel (1433' ; 20,700 inhab.), Ger. Neuenlurg, capital of the 
canton of that name (once a principality of the Orange family ; 
then under Prussian sway, from 1707 to 1815, when it joined the 
Confederation; finally given up by Prussia in 1857), is charmingly 
situated on the Lake of Neuchatel, to the E. of the mouth of the 
Seyon (p. 233), and at the base and on the slopes of the Jura. The 
banks of the lake are skirted for about IY2M. by a *Quay, planted 
with trees and affording a beautiful view of the Alps (mountain- 
indicator). Near the middle of this avenue is the little Harbour, 
on which is the handsome Post 0/jfce(Pl.C, 3). Opposite is a monu- 
ment erected in 1898 to commemorate the rising of the Republican 
party against the Prussian government in 1848. 

The College Latin (PI. C, 4), to the W. of the harbour, contains 
a valuable natural history collection (adm. Thurs., 10-12 & 2-4, and 
Sun., 2-4) and a public library (100,000 vols.; daily, except Sun. 
& Mon., 10-12 & 2-4). The former was founded by Louis Agassiz 
(1807-73), who was professor here from 1832 to 1845 (comp. p.209). 
— Near it, in the Place Purry (PI. B, 4), rises a bronze statue of 
David de Purry (1709-86), a native of Neuchatel, who left 4^2 nail- 
lion francs to the town. Observe also the Holies (PI. B, 4; now a club), 
a picturesque little Renaissance edifice of 1570, in the Place des 
Halle s. 

The*Mr/SEE des Bbat/x-Ab.ts(P1.D,3), a handsome Renaissance 
building, to the E. of the harbour, contains the interesting muni- 
cipal Collection of Antiquities and Picture Gallery (adm. to each, 
50 c. ; free on Sun. and Thurs., 10-12 and 1-5). 

Ground FIooe. The rooms to the right and left of the entrance contain 
the valuable Historical <fc Archaeological Collection, largely reminiscent of 
the Prussian period. — On the Staiecase are bronze busts of Max. deMeuron 
(d. 1868), founder of the museum, and of the painters Lion Berthoud 
(d. 1892) and Albert de Meuron (d. 1897). At the top are three 'Paintings by 
Paul Robert, executed in 1886-94. The central picture represents intellec- 
tual life as mirrored in the Christian dispensation : among clouds at the top 
appears the Saviour, with the Gospel below him ; to the left ascends a pr 



230 IV. Route 58. NEUCHATEL. 

cession of female forms symbolising Art, Science, and Morality, in blessed 
harmony; to the right the Archangel Michael stands upon the defeated 
dragon ; and in the background is a view of Keuchatel. In the painting on 
the left Celestial Grace bestows flowers and fruits upon the earth while 
evil spirits are driven off. The picture to the right depicts industrial life : 
in the foreground are working men and women, a manufacturer, a foreman, 
and a merchant; in the centre of the background rises the statue of In- 
dustry, whose gold is sought for by an eagerjmultitude ; a beam of celestial 
light falls upon the group on the right; at the top are the Angel of Jmtice, 
to the right, and the Recording Angel, to the left. — The balcony affords 
a beautiful view of the lake and the Alps. — To the right is the — 

"Picture Gallery.' Room I. (Right) Duboit, 101 Autumn evening, 102. 
Summer morning; 343. P. Robert, Evening air; Jacquand, 181. Arrest of 
Voltaire at Frankfort, 182. Rousseau taking leave of his friends in 1762; 
30. Beaumont, Departure of the fishermen; *81. Al. Calame, Monte Rosa; 
145. Oleyre, Hercules and Omphale; 35. Berthoud, The Jungfrau; 185. 
Jeawmaire, Street in Sion; 37. Berthoud, The chafer's death; 126. Gaud, 
Autumn-fire; 179. Ouillarmod, Carts in the Puszta. — Room II. Engravings 
and Drawings. — Room III. 138. K. Girardet, Old Franciscan monastery 
at Alexandria; 171. Isabey, Sea-piece; 147. Greuze, Dreams; 295, 296, 
E. de Pury, Lucifer, Abel; without a number, A. de Meuron, 'Virgo 
libertatis mater' ; 186. Jeanneret, Chrysanthemums ; 143. K. Girardet, Lake 
of Brienz ; 100. Diday, The Wetterhorn. — Room IV. Small landscapes, 
cattle-pieces, etc. — Room V. Sketches by Liopold Robert, and copies of all 
his works by his brother Aurele. L. Robert, born in 1794 at Chaux-de- 
Fonds (d. in Italy, 1835), is famous for his scenes of popular life in 
S. Europe. — Room VI. 180. Ouillarmod, Horses crossing the Theiss; 
2. Anker, French soldiers entertained by Swiss peasants in 1871; 139. 
K. Girardet, Cromwell reproached by his daughter, Mrs. Claypole, for the 
condemnation of Charles I. ; 310. A. Robert, Baptistery in St. Mark's, Venice; 
Corot, 87. St. Ma'.o, 86. River bank, 88. Early morning; 1H7. Jmer, Ruins 
of Crozant ; 351. Schuter, Lumbering; 9. Bachelin, Dan. Jean Richard (p. 233) 
promising to repair a traveller's watch (1679); 172. Guillarmod, Waggon; 
332. L. Robert, Study of a head; 44, 43. Berthoud, Chrysanthemums; 131. 
E. Girardet, Departure of the Bernese Landwehr in 1798. — Room VII. 
311. A. Robert, St. Mark's, Venice ; E. Girardet, 135. El Kantara (Algiers), 
127. The father's blessing, 130. The little culprit; 137. A". Girardet, Hugue- 
nots; Leopold Robert, "315. Basilica of San Paolo Fuori le Mura near Rome 
after the tire of 1823, "321. Fishermen of the Adriatic, 330. Brigands pursued 
by soldiers, 320. Improvisatore, 341. Neapolitan girls ; 154. Grosclaude, The 
drinker. — Room VHI. Landscapes by M. de Meuron, Alb. de Meuron, 
A. Veillon, Berthoud, and others. — Room IX. 189. Jeamieret, Evolution 
of the vine ; 153. Grosclaude, Marino Faliero ; 187. Jeanneret, The drinker ; 
8. Bachelin, Entry of the French army into Switzerland in 1871 ; 188. Jeanneret, 
Alpine pasture; 365. Wagner, Autumn landscape; 300. E. de Pury, The 
Cantilene (song of rowing girls); 359. Veillon, Spezia; 93. E. David, Capri; 
183. Jeanmaire, Under the pine-trees; 1. Anker, Sunday afternoon ; 79. Bur- 
nand, The village engine; 293. E. de Pury, The fencing-master; 348. 
P. von Salis , Winter scene ; 3. Anker, Pilgrimage to Gleyresse ; 357. 
E. Tschaggeny, Enraged bull; 355. C. Ph. Tschaggeny, Flemish wedding in 
the 18th cent.; 10. Bachelin, Bivouac on the Lake of Thun. 

Adjoining the museum is an interesting k S4pulcre Prihittoriqut' , discov- 
ered at Auvernier in 1876. 

A little to the N.E. are the new School of Commerce and the 
Academy (PI. E, F, 2 ; 40 teachers, 150 students), between the 
Jardin Anglais and the Jardin Desoir. — Near the Palais Rougemont 
(PI. D, 2), on the groundfloor of which is the Cercle du Musee (a club), 
is the Musee Alpestre, a collection of stuffed Alpine animals (1 ft.)- 

The Chateau (PI. B, 3), on the hill above the town, dating 
partly from the 12th, but mainly from the 15-17th cent., and 



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CHAUMONT. IV. Route 58. 231 

restored in 1866, is now the seat of the cantonal government. Ad- 
jacent is the *Abbey Chuech (Collegiate; PI. A, 3; key at 6 Rue 
du Chateau), built in 1149-90 and restored in the 13th cent., 
with two pointed Gothic towers of the 15th century. The choir con- 
tains a large Gothic monument with 15 lifesize figures (partly re- 
newed), erected in 1372 to the Counts of Neuchatel, and restored in 
1840. There are also memorial stones to two Prussian governors. — 
The Place in front of the church is adorned with a Statue of Farel, 
the Reformer (d. 1565), erected in 1875. The pleasing cloisters on 
the N. side, rebuilt after a flre in 1450, were restored in 1860-70. 

— A bridge crosses the old castle-moat to the Public Park. 

The Observatoire Cantonal, 25 min. above the town, erected 
for the benefit of the watch-manufacturers, is in telegraphic com- 
munication with Chaux-de-Fonds, etc. (p. 232). The adjoining 
Mail, a grass-plot planted with trees, commands a charming view of 
the lake and the Alps. Another good view is enjoyed from the new 
Pare du Plan (PI. B, 2, 1), to which a cable - tramway ascends 
(ascent in i / i hr. ; fare 20 c, descent 10 c). 

Near the town there are pleasant wood-walks : to the Roche de VEr- 
mitage (2007'), Pierre a Bot, Gorges du Seyon, Chanilaz (p. 235), etc. 

The 'Chaumont (3845'; * Grand-Edtel de Chaumont, a large house near the 
top, 3700', pens. 6-10 fr. ; E6tel du Chdteau, lower down, 3 min. to the S.E. ; 
Eng. Ch. Serv.), a spur of the Jura, to the N., is the finest point of view near 
Neuchatel. The road to it diverges from the Chaux-de-Fonds road, l'/< M. from 
Neuchatel, and leads to the top in lVz hr. (diligence twice a day in summer 
in 2'/2 hrs., 2 fr. ; down in 1 hr., IV2 fr. ; carr. with one horse 10, with two 
horses 20 fr.). Near the hotels at the top are a chapel and a school-house. 
The view from the Signal, 1 /t hr. above the hotels (at the top, indicator of the 
Swiss Alpine Club, by Imfeld), embraces Lakes Neuchatel and Morat, and the 
Alpine chain from the Sentis to Mont Blanc in the background. Evening- 
light best, but a perfectly clear horizon is rare. Charming view of the Val 
de Ruz and the Jura, to the W., from the (1/4 hr.) Pri Louiset. We may 
return to Neuchatel by descending from the Signal to the right through 
wood to (*/\ hr.) Fenin, in the Val de Ruz, on the Chaux-de-Fonds road, 
and then following the shady Chemin del Quatre Ministraux de Pierre- a- 
Bot to the left, which affords a beautiful view of the Alps. An attractive 
route, following the brow of the hill, by La Dame and Chuffort (guide 
advisable), leads in 4 hrs. from the Chaumont to the Chasseral (p. 14). 

— "Gorges de la Reuse, see p. 236; "Tile de Rang, see p. 232. 

59. From Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds and Locle. 

Railway via Chaux-de-Fonds to (23 M.) Locle in l 3 /<-2 hrs. (fares 
5 fr. 25, 3 fr. 80, 2 fr. 80 c). This route, as far as Les Hauts-Geneveys, 
is very attractive; views to the left. 

Neuch&tel, see p. 229. The train skirts the slopes behind the town 
and crosses the Seyon, a stream descending from the Chasseral, which 
was carried down to the lake by means of a tunnel in 1839. Beyond 
a tunnel V2 M. long the line affords a superb *View of the lake and 
the Bernese Alps, and of Mont Blanc to the S. 3 M. Corcelles (1750'). 
The train ascends through wood; two short tunnels. 

7 M. Chambrelien (2255'), beautifully situated high above the 
valley of the Reuse (p. 234). The train backs out towards the N.E. 



232 IV.R.59.-Map,p.230. LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS. Jura. 

and skirts a wooded chain of hills. To the right is the fertile Val 
de Buz, with its numerous villages, above which rises the Chaumont 
(p. 231). 

IO72 M. Lea Oeneveya-sur-Coffrane (2770' ; H6t.-Brasserie du 
Jura). — 13 M. Lea Hauta-Geneveya (3135'; Buffet; H6t. du Jura, 
H6t. du Nord, both plain), the highest point of view on the line, 
where Mont Blanc becomes very conspicuous. 

The 'Tete de Rang (4668'), ascended in 1 hr. from Hauts-Geneveys 
(by a lane to the left, 10 mln. beyond the village), commands a superb 
distant view of the Jura, of the Vosges, and of the Alps from the Sentis 
to Mont Blanc and the mountains of Savoy. On the saddle, V4 hr. below 
the top, is the "H6t. du Jura (4340'). — Hence to the (V2 hr.) Col del Logei 
and (f 1 /* hr.) La Chaux-de-Fonds, see below. 

The train passes through a tunnel (2 M. long; 9min.) under the 
Col dea Logea to (16 M.) Lea Convert, a solitary station in a rock- 
girt valley. Beyond a tunnel ( 3 / 4 M. ; 3 min.) under Mont Sagne, and 
a shorter one, we reach — 

I8V2 M. La Chaux-de-Fonds (3260'; *Orand Edtel Central et 
Terminus, R. 27 2 -4, B. li/ 4 , D. 3y 2 , S. 3, pens. 8-10 fr.; *Fleur 
de Lya, B. 3, B. H/ 4 fr.; Lion d'Or; *Croix d'Or, unpretending; 
Balance; Hot. de la Gare; U. S. Consular Agent, Mr. H. Eiecket), 
an important watch-making place (35,890 inhab.), with handsome 
streets and public buildings. It claims to be the largest 'village' in 
Europe. The College, containing the picture-gallery (good pictures 
by Swiss masters), the library, and the historical museum deserves 
a visit. The Pare du Bois du Petit-Chateau is tastefully laid out. 

A pleasant walk may be taken by a path to the N. to (1 hr.) the 
hill of Pouillerel (4200'), commanding a view over Franche-Comte" to the 
Vosges and of the Bernese Alps to the Wildstrubel and Mont Blanc. — 
To the S. a road (one-horse carr. 8 fr.) leads from Chaux-de-Fonds to 
the (IV2 hr.) *Col des loges (4065'; "HStel a la Vue des Alpes), a fine point 
of view. A more extensive prospect is enjoyed from the 'Tele de Rang 
(4668'), »/« nr - to the S. of the Col (see above). — Aqueduct, see p. 234. — 
A narrow-gauge railway runs to the S.W. to La Sagne and (lO'/i M.) La 
Ponts-de-Mariel (Hot. de la Loyaute). 

From Chaux-de-Fonds to the picturesque s C6tes du Doubs (fatiguing, 
not recommended for ladies), a pleasant excursion of one day. The road 
leads past the "Restaurant Bel-Air to a Hotel near the Combe de la Qreffiert 
(view of the Doubs below), then descends through wood (shortcuts) 
towards the Doubt, reaching it at (5 M.) the charmingly - situated Maison 
Monsieur, and skirting its bank via the "Pavilion da Sonneuri (restaurant) 
to (2V4 M.) Biaufond (1990'). Then by boat to (1/2 hr.) Le Refrain (below 
which the Doubs forms the boundary between France and Switzerland), 
and on foot through grand and wild scenery to the picturesque ruins of 
the (2 M.) Moulin de la Mori (1835'). Visitors may take a boat to (50 min.) 
the Verrieres du Bief d'Eloz, then below the Fall of the Doubs continue 
either by boat or on foot along the French bank past (right) La Ooule, 
with large electric works, to ( 3 /4 hr.) Bief d'Etoz. Thence we proceed from 
Derrvre la Roche, on the Swiss bank, to the (2 M.) mill of Theusseret 
and to (l'/2 M.) Qoumois ("Couronne, good trout), a charmingly situated 
village. A road ascends hence to the E. in windings past the ruin of 
I'rcmquemont to OV2 M.) Saigneligier (Hot. de la Gare, pens. 5-8 fr. ; Hot. 
du Cerf), whence a railway (Chemin de fer regional) runs via Muriaux, 
Jfoirmont, and Les Bois to (IV2 hr.) Chaux-de-Fonds. 

A pleasant road leads to the W. from Chaux-de-Fonds to (l'/« br.) 
Les Planchettes (restaurant) and the (l'/2 hr.) Saut du Doubs (p. 233). 



Jura. LE LOCLE. Map, p. 230. — IV. B. 59. 233 

From Chacx-de-Fonds to Bienne, 26 : /2 M., railway in 1V2-2 hrg. (fares 
4 fr. 50, 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 25 c.)- The line passes the station of (2'/ 2 M.) Convers- 
Hameau (Halle du Creux), and enters the industrious Val St. Imier, watered 
by the Suze or Schiiss. 5>/2 M. Kenan; 8'/4 M. Sonvilier, with the picturesque 
ruins of the castle of Erguel on a pine-clad rock. — 9'/2 M. St. Imier (26W; 
7114inhab.; H6t. de la Ville; Hdt. des Treize- Cantons, R. 2, D. incl. wine 
2V2 fr- ; Bellevue Restaurant, above the station), the capital of the valley, 
with considerable watch-manufactories. (Ascent of the Chasseral, p. 14, 
by a bridle-path, 2'/2-3 hrs.) — Several small stations. — 18 M. Sonceboz, 
and thence to (26V2 M.) Bienne, see pp. 12, 13. 

20 M. Eplatures- Temple; 20 1/2 M. Crtt-du-Locle. 

23 M. Le Loole (3035'; pop. 12,520; *H6t. des Trois Rois; Hot. 
du Jura ; National), famed for its watches. Opposite the Watch- 
makers' School a bronze statue was erected in 1888 of D.J.Richard 
(d. 1741), founder of the watch-making industry of Le Lode and 
La Chaux-de-Fonds. The hill of Sommartel (4350'), l 1 /* hr. to the 
S., affords a fine view of the Jura. 

Fkom Locle to Moktead (Besancon), 8M., railway in 26 min. by Col 
des Roches (whence an interesting road* leads through the Col to Les Brenets, 
2 M.), and Villers-le-Lac, 1 M. to the S.W. of the Lac des Brenets (see below). 
From Morteau to Besancon, 42 M. 

Fkom Loole to Les Bkenets, 2'/2 M., narrow-gauge railway in 1/4 hr. 
(fares 60, 40 c). The train ascends to the right, and through a tunnel, to 
stat. Les Fretes; then through wooded valleys and meadows, along the deep 
gorge of the Bied (opposite runs the Morteau line, see above) and through 
two tunnels, to the large village of Let Brenets (2800'; "Couronne, K. H/2, 
D. 21/2, S. {1/2, pens. 5 fr.; "Lion d'Or; Bellevue), in the valley of the 
Doubs. From the station we descend through the village to the (V* hr. 
ascent 20 min.) Pre" du Lac, on the "Lac des Brenets (2470 1 ), a lake 2 J /2 M. 
long, which the Doubs forms above the waterfall. A boat (3 fr. there 
and back; more than 3 pers. 1 fr. each), or the small steamboat which 
plies on Sundays (for large parties on week-days also), now conveys us 
down the dark-green lake, narrowing between wooded sandstone rocks, 
and presenting a series of picturesque scenes. In 1/2 hr. we reach the 
*Saut du Doubs (Hit. du Saut du Doubs, with garden, on the Swiss side; 
Hdt. de la Chute, on the French side, both unpretending). In 6 min. from 
the French inn we obtain a fine view from a point high above the 
picturesque fall, which is 80' in height. A road on the right bank, 
through wood, affording charming glimpses of the basin of the Doubs, 
leads back to (3 M.) Les Brenets. 

60. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier through the Val 
de Tr avers. 

32i/ 2 M. Railway in 1 1/2-2 hrs. ; fares 6 fr. 75 c, 4 fr., 2 fr. 80 c. (From 
Pontarlier to Paris by Dijon, express in 7 : /2 hrs.; from Bern to Paris 
10'/4 brs.) This Jura Railway (comp. p. 231) also traverses a most picturesque 
region. Views to the left. French time at Pontarlier, 55 min. behind 
Central European time (that of Switzerland and Germany). 

Neuchatel, see p. 229. The line, parallel with the Yverdon 
line (p. 235) as far as Auvernier, crosses the Seyon (p. 229), and 
affords a beautiful view of the lake and the Alps. The train skirts 
vine-clad slopes, and crosses the Oorge of Serrieres (Hot.-Pens. du 
Dauphin) by a bold viaduct. In the village is a bronze bust of 
Phil. Suchard, founder of the large chocolate-factory in the valley 
below. Above rises the small chateau of Beauregard. 



324 IV. Route 60. NOIRAIGUE. Jura. 

3 M. Anvernier ; the little town lies below, to the left (1480'; 
Hotel du Lac, moderate). The train diverges to the right from the 
Yverdon line (p. 235) and ascends, in full view of the lake and 
the Alps. Entering the Tocky and wooded ravine of the Reuse or 
Areuse, we observe the lofty viaduct of the Lausanne line (p. 236) 
far below, to the left. The last glimpse of the lake down this valley 
is very picturesque. "We soon enter a tunnel, high on the N. slope 
of the valley, almost under the station of Chambrelien (p. 231). 
Seven more tunnels, beyond the fourth of which is (8^2 M.) stat. 
Champ du Moulin (2155' ; Hot. du Sentier des Gorges, trout), in a 
picturesque site. (To the Gorges de la Reuse, see p. 236.) 

Neuchatel and Chaux-de-Fonds (13 M. distant) are supplied with water 
from this point ; the engine-house (2137'), V< hr. up the Reuse, is interest- 
ing. The neighbouring house of Lieut. Col. Perrier was, according to the 
inscription, once occupied by J. J. Rousseau. A footpath , beyond the wa- 
ter-wheels, leads on the right hank of the Reuse to the (>/2 hr.) Saut de Brol. 
— The Mont de la dinette, below Noiraigue on the left bank, has recently 
begun to move and threatens a landslip which might choke the bed of the 
Reuse and thus be highly disastrous to the whole valley. 

11 M. Noiraigue (2380'; Croix Blanche), at the N. base of the 
Creux du Vent. The valley, called the Val de Travers from this 
point to St. Sulpice, changes its character here, and the Reuse now 
flows calmly through a grassy dale. 

On the top of the Creux du Vent (4807') is a basin, 1000' deep, shaped 
like a horseshoe, nearly 3 M. in circuit. Within it is an excellent spring, 
which is reached from (1 hr.) the Maison du Creux du Vent (3218'), on the N.E. 
side, in 3 /t hr. In stormy weather this 'hollow of the wind' is filled with 
surging white vapour, like the steam in a boiling cauldron. Rare plants 
and minerals. From the Maison du Crenx du Vent we may reach the 
highest point (Le Soliat, 4807') in I1/2 hr. by traversing the woods on the 
E. aide. Descent to (2 hrs.) Boudry, see p. 236. 

From (M1/2 M.) Travers (2392'; Ours) a branch-line runs in the 
valley, by Couvet, Mdtiers, and Fleurier, to Buttes and St. Sulpice 
(see p. 235). Opposite, farther on, are asphalt-mines. — 17V2 M. 
Couvet (2418'; *H6t. de I'Aigle), a pretty town. Here, and at Motiers 
and Fleurier, excellent absinthe is made. 

Diligence twice daily in 2 hrs. 10 min. (one-horse carr. 10 fr.) to 
(7 M.) la Brevine (3430' ; Hotel de Ville, R. IV2, D. 21/2, S. 2, pens, from 
4 fr.), a health-resort with a chalybeate spring. 

The line again ascends the N. slope of the valley. Opposite, far 
below, lies Mdtiers-Travers (2430'; Maison de Ville), wheTe, by 
permission of the Prussian governor General Keith, Rousseau lived 
in 1762 after his expulsion from Yverdon by the government of Bern, 
and wrote his 'Lettres e"crites de la Montagne'. 

The Ravine of the Poeta-Raisse (affluent of the Reuse), with its pic- 
turesque rocks and waterfalls, deserves a visit. We pass (without crossing) 
abridge, VzM.to the S. of Motiers, and follow the brook to the right, ascend- 
ing a pretty wooded gorge. In 1 hr. we reach a new path to the top (35 min.). 
From this point, with a guide or a good map, we may ascend the Chasseron 
(p. 237). — Beyond Motiers is the Grotte de Mdtiers, a limestone cavern, 
one arm of which is 3'/2 M. long. It may be safely explored for '/» M. 
(rough walking; swarms of bats). At the entrance, a waterfall. 



Jura. PONTARLIER. IV. Route 60. 235 

19 M. Boveresse is the station for Fleurier and Motiers (p. 234). 
In the valley, farther on, is Fleurier (2455'; *H6t.-Pens. Beau- 
Site, beautifully situated 1/2 M. to the S., R. 2-3, B. 1, D. 2V2-3, 
pens. 5 l /i-7 fr. ; *H6t. de la Poste, in the town, same proprietor 
and prices; Hot. Victoria, at the station, pens. 4-6 fr.; * Couronne, 
pens. 4-5 fr. ; Hot. de Temperance, pens, from 3 fr.), an important 
village with 3737 inhab. and extensive watch-factories. It is well 
situated and is much frequented as a summer-resort. A fine view 
is obtained from the Chalet-Restaurant du Righi Neuchdtelois (3280'), 
3'/ 2 M. distant by road, but IV2 M. only by footpath. 

Beyond a tunnel, 600 yds. long, we observe St. Sulpice (2475') 
below, on the left, with a Portland cement factory. Scenery again 
very picturesque. Two bridges and two tunnels. In the valley, 
1^2 M. to the W. of Fleurier, the Reuse, which probably flows under- 
ground from the Lac des Tailleres, rises as a considerable stream, 
soon capable of working several mills. Road and railway pass through 
the defile of La Chaine. 

The line attains its highest point [Col des Verrieres, 3107'), and 
then enters a monotonous green valley with beds of peat. At (24 J /2 M.) 
Verrieres-Suisse (3067'; Hot. de la Ville, pens. 5-6 fr.)), the last 
Swiss village, the French 'Army of the East' under Bourbaki crossed 
the frontier in Feb., 1871. The train enters France (luggage examined 
at Pontarlier, see below). Then (25y 2 M.) Verrieres- France (3015'). 
Near St. Pierre de la Cluse the scenery is again interesting. The 
defile of La Cluse is fortified. On the left rises the Fort de Joux; 
on the right, 100' higher, is the new Fort de Larmont. We cross 
the Doubs. On the right, a monument in honour of the 'derniers 
dtffenseurs de la patrie' in Feb., 1871. 

3272 M. Pontarlier (2854'; *H6t. de la Poste; Hot. de Paris; 
National), a small town on the Doubs. See Baedeker's N. France. 

From Pontarlier to Cossonay and Vallorbe, see R. 64. 

61. From Neuchatel to Lausanne. 

461/z M. Railway in 2-2»/n hrs.; fares 7 fr. 80, 5 fr. 50, 3 fr. 90 c. (to Geneva 
in 2V4-5 hrs. ; fares 12 fr. 70, 8 fr. 90, 6 fr. 35 c). Best view to the left. 
Travellers to Geneva by certain trains must change at Eenem (p. 237; 
apply to the guard). — Steamboat on the Lake of Neuchdtel between 
Neuchatel and Moral (p. 243), and between Neuchatel and Etlavaytr only 
(twice daily in l : /2hr., corresponding with the train to Freiburg, p. 240). 

Neuchatel, see p. 229. To (3 M.) Auvernier, see p. 234. Our 
train quits the lake, to which it returns beyond Bevaix. — 5 M. 
Colombier (2058 inhab. ; Cheval Blanc), with an old chateau, now 
abarrack, and fine avenues, yields excellent white wine. (On the lake, 
11/2 M. to the E., is the ChanMaz Hydropathic, with park and views ; 
pens. 6-8 fr.) — 6 M. Boudry (1693'); the little town (1542'; 
2174 inhab. ; Maison de Ville), the birthplace of Marat (1744-93), 
lies below, on the right bank of the Reuse, 1 M. from the station. 
Steam-tramway to Neuchatel, see p. 229. 



236 lV.tl.61.— Map, p. 234. YVERDON. From Neuchdtel 

The "Gorges de la Reuse are interesting. Leaving stat. Boudry, we cross 
the line (passing the viaduct on the left) and pass through the village of Troii- 
rodt. Befdre the last house we turn to the left, between walls, and descend 
in 20 min. to the entrance of the ravine. A path, hewn in the rock at places, 
affords striking views of the narrow, wooded gorge. In 5 min. we come to 
a path to the left, leading to the Chalet aux CUet (fee for the use of the 
path expected). In 20 min. more we observe the Orotte aux Fourt, above us, 
on the right, with a large entrance (easily accessible). Farther on, the Pon- 
tarlier railway runs high above the gorge, on the right, and still higher is 
the road. We next reach (55 min.; l 3 /i hr. from Boudry station) the 
Champ du Moulin station (p. 234). Or we take the train to Champ du 
Moulin, and walk down the Gorges to Boudry. Another path descends to 
the Gorges from Chambrelien (p. 231). Circular ticket from Neuchatel and 
back via, Chambrelien and Boudry, 2nd cl. 1 fr. 40 c, 3rd cl. 1 fr. 

From Boudry to the Creux du Vent (p. 231), 3 hrs. 

Beyond Boudry the train is carried by a great viaduct over the deep 
valley of the Reuse, and beyond (9 M.) Bevaix it returns to the 
lake. 11 M. Qorgier-St-Aubin ; 14 M. Vaumarcus, with the well- 
preserved castle of that name. At (1572 M.) Concise (1453' ; Ecu 
de France) many relics of ancient lake-villages have been found. 
— 17'/2 M. Onnens-Bonvillara. 

20^2 M. Grandson (pop. 1708 ; Lion a" Or ; Croix Rouge ; Hotel de 
la Oare, D. 2^2 fr., well spoken of), a picturesque little town, prob- 
ably of Roman origin, has a handsome Chateau of Baron de Blonay 
(view from the terrace). The old Church, Romanesque, with a Gothic 
choir, once belonged to a Benedictine abbey. 

The chateau of Grandson , once the seat of a family of that name 
and said to have been built about the year 1000, was taken by the Bern- 
ese in 1475, and in Feb. , 1476, was captured by Charles the Bold , Duke of 
Burgundy. A few weeks later, on 3rd March, 1476, the Duke was surprised 
by the advancing Confederates near Grandson, and in spite of his numer- 
ical superiority (50,000 Burgundians, it is said, against 20,000 Swiss) was 
utterly defeated. Enormous booty was captured on the occasion. 

The train skirts the S.W. end of the lake, and crosses the Thiele. 

23M. Yverdon(1433'; 7943inhab. ; *H6t. deLondres, R. 2-2>/ 2 , 
D. 3, S. 272, pens. 61/2 fr. ; Hot. du Paon, pens. 6 fr.; Hot. du 
Faucon), the Roman Eburodunum, is a thriving little town on the 
Thiele, with pleasant promenades. The Chdteau, erected by Duke 
Conrad of Zahringen in 1135, and the seat of Pestalozzi's famous 
school in 1805-25, is now occupied by the town-schools, a library, 
and a collection of coins and antiquities. In front of it rises a 
*Monument to Pestalozzi (d. 1827), by Lanz. The Hotel de Ville 
contains Roman antiquities found in the environs, and on the first 
floor a collection of clocks of the 18th century. Near the churchyard 
are fragments of a Roman fort. 

To the S.E. ('/4M.)are the "Bains (T Vrerdon (I!. 2-5, B. I1/2, de"j. 3, D. 3'/2, 
pens, from 6V2 fr., with a sulphur spring, hydropathic, and grounds), halfway 
to which are the Pens. La Prairie (4'/2-5 fr.) and the Maison Blanche (pens. 
4-5 fr.), both with gardens. — About l>/ 2 M. to the E. is the beautifully 
situated Sanatorium Bellevue (1800 1 ) for nervous patients (pens., incl. medical 
treatment, 500-800 fr. per month). 

Fkom Yvekdon to Stis. Cuoix, 15 M., narrow-gauge railway (trains 
on week-days only) in l-l'/i hr. (2 fr. 50 c, return-tickets 4 fr.). The line 
diverges, to the N. of Yverdon, from the Neuchatel line, crosses the Brinai, 
and ascends its valley via VaUeyres-sous-Montagny and Essert to (5'/iM ) 



to Lausanne. COSSONAY. Maps,pp.234,242.— IV. RM. 237 

Peney-Vuiteboeuf (1942'; Hot. Croix FcSderale, at Vuitebceuf). It then 
skirts, in a S.W. direction, the Mont de Baulmes (see below) to (7'/2 M.) 
Baulmes and (9 M.) Six-Fontaines (2330'), where it tends back in a long 
curve and ascends the wooded slope of Mt. Sachet. We pass through 
several tunnels, alternating with viaducts, where we enjoy picturesque 
views of deep gorges, the Lake of Neuchatel, and the High Alps, to (15 M.) 
Ste. Croix (3635'; pop. 6000; Grand Hdtel des Raises & E61. d'Espagne, 
R. 2-4 fr., B. 1 fr. 20 c., dej . 21/2, D. 3, S. 2, pen?, from 5 fr.; H6t. de France; Bdt. 
du Jura; "Hdt.-Pens. du Mont Blanc, 3 /< M. from the station, pens. 5-6V2fr. ; 
Fens. Ramseyer, Junot-Mercier, etc.), a large village in a sheltered situation, 
noted for its musical box and watch manufactories, and visited as a 
summer-resort. Excursions: to the N.E. to the (1 hr). Mont Cochel (4885'j 
and the (l 3 /4 hr.) "Chasseron (5285'), with a splendid view extending from 
the Jungfrau to Mt. Blanc (descent via Lea Preisettes and La Raisse to Flearier, 
p. 235); to theW. to the (1/2 hr.) Mont des Gerfs (4175'); to the S. PA hr.) 
Mont de Bavlmet (4180'), the (IV2 hr.) •'Aiguille de Baulmes (4986'), and the 
(2V2hrs.) *j!f<m<;SucAe<(5235');comp. p. 244. — We may return from Ste. Croix 
by an interesting path through the picturesque gorge of Covatannaz to the 
Vuiteboeuf station (50 min.; see above). 

From Yverdon to Payerne and Freiburg, see p. 240. 

The train quits the lake, and enters the broad valley of the Thiele, 
a stream formed by the confluence of the Orbe (p. 243) and the Ta- 
lent near (26 M.) Ependes. To the W. rises the long chain of the 
Jura : the Aiguille de Baulmes, Mont Suchet, Dent de Vaulion, 
and Montendre. — 29 M. Chavornay-Orbe. 

An Electric Tramway (2'/2 M., in 1/4 hr.) runs hence to Orbe (1584'; Deux 
Poitsont), a picturesque town of 2078 inhab. on a hill on the left bank of 
the Orbe, which is crossed by two bridges. In the 10th cent. Orbe was a 
capital of Burgundy, and to this period belong the two towers of the chateau 
(fine view from the terrace). From Orbe a diligence plies in l 3 /i hr. to 
Ballaiguei (p. 214). 

Two tunnels under the Mormont. Then (BB l /i M.) Eclepens. 
The train enters the wooded valley of the Venoge, passes La Sarraz 
(p. 243) and (341/4 M.) Daillens (junction for Pontarlier, p. 235), 
and stops at (38 M.) Cossonay (1850'; E6t. des Orands Moulins); 
the little town of Cossonay lies on a wooded hill to the right (cable- 
tramway from the station in 10 min.). — To Vallorbe and Pont- 
arlier, see R. 64. 

40 M. Vufflens-la-Ville. Beyond (42 M.) Bussigny, to the S., 
appear the mountains of Savoy. 43^2 M. Renens (p. 271). 

46'/2 M. Lausanne, see p. 260. 

62. From Bern to Lausanne. 

60 M. Railway to Freiburg in y t -U/ t hr. (3fr. 25, 2fr. 35, 1 fr. 70 c. ; to 
Lausanne in 2V4-4 hrs. (10 fr. 20, 7fr. 15, 5fr. 10 c); to Geneva in 3'/3-6'/2 hrs. 
(16 fr. 45, 11 fr. 55, 8 fr. 25 c). — Best views on the left. This route may 
be recommended to cyclists. 

Bern, see p. 160. To the left, a glimpse of the Bernese Alps and 
the mountains of the Simme and Sarine valleys, the serrated Bren- 
leire (7743') and Folie'rant (76909 being conspicuous ; more to the 
right is the Mole"son. The view is soon hidden by wood. 3 M. Bum- 
plitz ; 6 M. Thdrishaus. We descend and cross the Sense (Fr. Singine), 
the boundary between Cantons Bern and Freiburg. — 9M. Flamatt. 



238 IV. Route 62. FREIBURG. From Bern 

To the W. (S'/s M.; diligence thrice daily in 50min., by Neueneck) lias 
Laupen (Bar), a small town with an old chateau, at the confluence of the Sense 
and the Sarine, famed in Swiss annals for a victory gained in 1339 by the Bern- 
ese under Rudolph von Erlach (p. 162) over the army of Freiburg and the allied 
nobility of the Uechtland, Aargau, Savoy, and Burgundy. The Bramberg 
(2043 1 ), 3 /t hr. to the E., above the road to Neueneck, is marked by a mon- 
ument, erected in 1829. 

Beyond a tunnel we enter the green valley of the Tafferna-Bach. 
12y 2 M. Schmitten; 16 M. Dudingen, Fr. Quin (Hot. des Alpes), 
where we cross a viaduct, 100' high. 

In the valley of the Saane, V/t M. to the N.W. of Dudingen, are the 
baths of Bonn (1700'; pens. 31/2-41/2 fr.), with sulphur-springs. — Garmitwil 
(1985'; pens. 5 fr.), another sulphur-bath, lies I1/4 M. to the S.W. of Dudingen. 

Beyond Balliswil, which lies to the left, the train crosses the 
deep gorge of the Saane or Sarine by the iron *Viaduc de Qranfey 
(360 yds. long, 250' high). 

191/2 M. Freiburg. — Hotels. "Hotel Terminus, B. 21/2-6, B. iy 4 , 
D. 31/2-41/2, pens. 8-15 fr. ; 'Hotel Sdisse, R. 2-3, B. iy 4 , D. 3, pens. 
6-8 fr. ; "Faucon, R. 2-3, D. 3 fr. ; Hotel de l'Autruche ; Hotel de la 
Trte Noire, R. l'/2-2, B. 1, D. 2V2 fr. ; Hotel & Corhaus Schoenberg, 
prettily situated beyond the suspension-bridge, pens. 7-12 fr. 

Tramways. Electric Tramway (10 c.) from the station to the large bridge 
(p. 240) and to the University (see below). Cable Tramway (Funiculaire) 
between the upper and lower town (10 c). 

Official Enquiry Office, Rue de Lausanne 35. — Engl. Church Service. 

Freiburg, Fi. Fribourg (2100'; pop. 15,766), capital of Canton 
Freiburg, the ancient Vechtland, founded in 1178 by BertholdlV. of 
Zahringen, stands on a height nearly surrounded by the Sarine 
(Saane). Most of the inhabitants speak French. The town retains 
some of its ancient walls and towers. Freiburg is the seat of a 
bishop and of a Roman Catholic university opened in 1889 (300 
students). The handsome new University Building, in the quarter 
of Perolles, to the S.E. of the rail, station (electr. tramway, see 
above), contains important natural history collections. Adjacent 
is the Polytechnic School. — As the grand situation of the town and 
its bridges is not seen from the railway-station, the following walk 
is recommended. 

From the station, to the left, we proceed past the little Pro- 
testant Church and through the Avenue de la Gare to the Grand' 
Places, a large open space, with promenades, where a fine view is 
obtained from the E. side (cable tramway to the lower town, see 
p. 239). On the right is the handsome new H6lel des Posies, which 
also accommodates an industrial and an educational museum, with 
the 'Girard Room'. We descend thence by the Rue de Lausanne to 
the Place de l'Hotel-de-Ville (1940'). Here stands a venerable 
lime-tree, 14' in circumference, supported by stone pillars. 

According to tradition, this tree was originally a twig, borne by » 
young native of Freiburg when he arrived in the town, breathless and 
exhausted from logs of blood, to announce to his fellow-citizens the victory 
of Morat (1476). 'Victory' was the only word he could utter, and having 
thus fulfilled his mission, he expired. 

To the right rises the old Hotel de Ville, with an octagonal clock- 




GeogEAn5t.VWa.gner £ Debes, Leipzig. 



to Lausanne. FREIBURG. IV. Route 62. 239 

tower of 1511. To the left of the lime-tree the Rue du Tilleul 
leads past a bronze Statue of Father Qregoire Oirard (d. 1850) to 
the Gothic — 

*Chub.ch of St. Nicholas, founded in 1283, rebuilt in the 15th 
cent., restored in 1860. The handsome tower, 280' high, was erect- 
ed in 1470-92. The portal has curious reliefs of the Last Judgment. 

Interior (fee to the sacristan). The late-Gothic carved Stalls deserve 
notice. The second chapel on the S. side contains a picture by Desch- 
wanden, St. Anne and St. Mary. The choir has three modern stained-glass 
windows. A tablet on the S. pillar at the entrance to the choir is to the 
memory of Canisius (Peter de Eondt, d. 1597), the celebrated Jesuit. — The 
large Organ, with 67 stops and 7800 pipes, some of them 32' in length, 
was built by Al. Mooser (d. 1839), whose bust has been placed to the left 
of the entrance. Performances in summer at 1.30 and 8 p.m. daily. 

Behind the choir of St. Nicholas, a little to the left, is the great 
'Suspension Beidgb, or Grand Pont en Fils de Fer, 270 yds. long 
and 168' above the Sarine, constructed by Chaley in 1834. It is 
supported by six wire-ropes, 410 yds. long, the ends of which are 
secured to blocks of stone far below the surface of the earth. 

Ascending the right bank to the right for 8 min., we reach the 
Pont de Gottekon (250 yds. long, 245' high), a similar bridge, con- 
structed in 1840 over the Vallee de Ootteron, a deep ravine descend- 
ing to the Sarine. "We cross this bridge and follow the road on 
the other side (short-cut to the right closed) to the village of 
Bourguillon (2160'). We then descend to the right, through an old 
gate, to the (12 min. from the Pont de Gotteron) picturesquely 
situated Loretto Chapel, built in 1648, restored in 1888 (fine view 
of the town). Farther on we obtain, to the left, a view of the valley 
of the Sarine, which is here bridled with a weir (barrage). A path 
with steps descends 5 min. from the chapel to the lower town (17^5'), 
turning to the left at the fountain and passing the church of St. John 
(founded by the Knights of Malta), beyond which we cross the Sarine 
by a stone bridge. Hence we may follow the road to the left direct 
to the (12 min.) station, or we may proceed by the funicular rail- 
way to the E. end of the Grand' Places (p. 238), or we may ascend 
the steps to the right to the (5 min.) Hotel de Ville and take the 
electric tramway to the station. 

Those who have time may from the Grand' Places (p. 238) follow 
the Rue du Mustfe to the "W. to the Jesuits' College St. Michel, 
founded by Father Canisius in 1580. The Lycee, adjacent, contains 
the valuable Cantonal Museum. 

Two rooms on the gTOundfloor contain the "Marcello Museum, left 
to the town by the sculptress Duchess Adela Colonna (d. 1879), a native of 
Freiburg, who took the name of Marcello: busts, statues (Abyssinian 
sheikh; Pythia, from the Opera House at Paris) by Marcello; pictures by 
her, and by Kegnault, Hubert, Delacroix, Fortuny, Courbet, and others; 
furniture, etc.; also the Cantonal Picture Gallery of ancient and modern 
works. — On the first floor (five rooms) is a valuable collection of antiquities 
from lake- dwellings, Roman and Swiss relics, ethnographical objects, weap- 
ons and armour, coins, etc. — "he theological lectures of tl,e University 
(p. 238) are given in the Lycee. 



240 IV. Route 62. ROMONT. 

About 3>/2 M. to the S.W. of Freiburg is the. former Cistercian abbey of 
Hauterive (road from the station by the Glane Bridge, see below), founded 
in 1137 by Count Wilhelm von Glane, now a training school for teachers. 
The Gothic church, with beautiful stalls of the 14th cent., the restored 
Chapel of St. Nicholas, and the cloisters, are all worth a visit. 

Feom Freiburg to Yverdon, 31 M., railway in 2 hrs. (3 fr. 75 or 2fr. 
65 c). Near (3i/s M.) Belfaux is a huge embankment, below which the 
Sonnaz passes by means of an aqueduct, 150 yds. long. Stations : Qrolley 
Lichelles, Couiset, Corcelles, and (13 3 /4 M.) Payerne (p. 242), junction of the 
'Ligne de Broye'. We cross the Broye and the Glane. I6V2 M. Cugy. — 
20 M. Estavayer (Hdtel de Ville ; Cerf), a town with the picturesque chateau 
of Chenaux, on Lake Neuchatel. (Steamer twice daily by Cortaillod and 
Auvernier to Neuchdtel, p. 229.) — 23V2 M. Cheyret (1870'; Grand-Hotel des 
Bains, with fine view, R. IV2, D. 2V2, S. 2, pens. 4-5 fr.)? 25 M. Yvonand 
on a long tongue of land, at the mouth of the Mentue, where Roman relics 
are found. — 31 M. Yverdon (p. 23G). 

From Freiburg to Morat, 1472 M., railway in 55 min. (fares 1 fr. 85, 
1 fr. 40 c). At (3 l /2 M.) Belfaux the train turns to the right into the valley 
of the Sonnaz and follows that stream to (6 M.) Pensier, near its confluence 
with the Sarine. It then ascends to the N.W. to (8 M.) Courtepin and 
(IOV2 hr.) Cressier-tur-Morat (1886 1 ). After skirting the hill on which the 
latter lies, we descend via (13 M.) Munchenwiler, Fr. Villars-les- Moines- Courge- 
vaux (Ours) , with a turretted chateau (view from the belvedere in the park), 
to (I41/2 M.) Morat (p. 242). 

To the S.E. of Freiburg (20 M.; diligence in summer daily in i l /t hrs. 
via Frohmatt, Chevrilles or Giffers, Plasselb, and Plaffeyen or Planfayon; one- 
horse carriage 15, two-horse 25 fr.), in the valley of the Sense, is the Schwarze 
See or Lac Noir (3465'), amidst lofty mountains, and well stocked with 
fish. On its bank lies the "Schwarzsee-Bad or Bains Domene (R. 2-2 l /2fr., B. 
lfr. 20 c, D. 3, S. 2, pens. 6-7 fr.), with sulphur-springs. The Kaiseregg 
(7180'), to the S.E. (3 J /z hrs., with guide), commands the Bernese and Va- 
laisian Alps. — From the Schwarze See over the Chisaletle to (IOV2 M.) 
Charmey, see p. 223 ; over the Gantrisch Pass to Thun, see p. 222. — From 
Freiburg via. Plaffeyento theSchtcefelberg-Bad (p. 223), 20M., diligence daily 
in summer in 5V3hrs. Another diligence runs to Sangerboden (4 hrs.), whence 
the OUenleue-Bad (p. 223) is reached on foot or horseback in 1 hr. 

The "Berra (Birrenberg; 5655'), 472-5 hrs. from Freiburg, repaying. 
Road by Marly (2034'; -Pens. Kuenlin, 4 fr.), a village prettily situated on 
the Girine (Aergerenbach), to (6M.) Praz Mattaou; thence a bridle-path via 
MonUvraz and the Kasenberg (Cousimbert) to the (3 hrs.) top. Extensive 
view of the Jura, Lakes Neuchatel, Morat, and Bienne, and the Alps. 
Descent to Valsainte (p. 223) l l /« hr., to the Schwarze See 2'/2 hrs. 

As the train proceeds we survey the Simmen-Thal and Freiburg 
Mts. to the left, notably the Mole'son. The Olane, with its steep banks, 
and a bridge of four arches which crosses it, are also seen to the left. 
23 M. Matran; 25 M. Rose; 26i/ 2 M. Neyruz; 28i/ 2 M. Cottens; 30 M. 
Chenens. Near(32'/2M.) Villaz-St-Pierre the train enters the valley 
of the Glane ; on the left are the fertile slopes of the Mont Oibloux 
(3947'). Near Romont, to the left, is the nunnery of La Fille-Dieu. 

351/2 M. Komont, Ger. Remund (2540'; pop. 1885; *Cerf; 
Couronne; *Croix Blanche; Hot. de la Oare ; *Rail. Restaurant), 
a little town on the Glane, with ancient walls and watch-towers, is 
picturesquely situated on a hill. The Castle, founded by the Bur- 
gundian kings in the 10th cent, and restored in 1577-80, is occupied 
by the local authorities (picturesque inner court). The old Gothic 
Church contains 16th cent, choir-stalls with grotesque carving. 
At the S. end of the hill rises a massive round tower (view). 



CHEXBRES. IV. Route 62. 241 

Fbom Romont to Bulle (p. 279), 12 M., branch-line in 53 minutes. 
Stations : Vuisternens, Sales, Yaulruz (p. 279). 

Beyond (38 3 /4 M.) Siviriez Mont Blanc appears for a short time 
on the left. A tunnel pierces the watershed between the Glane and 
the Broye. 42 M. Vauderens-Eue. To the right is the valley of the 
Broye, with the picturesque town of Rue (p. 242). At (45*/2 M.) 
Oron (2375') we pass through a cutting in the castle-hill to the station 
on the S. side; Oron-la-Ville lies below, to the right. The train 
descends and crosses the Mionnaz and the Broye. 48 M. Palizieux(se& 
below ; electric tramway to Chdtel-St-Denis, see p. 279). We again 
ascend slightly, traversing a smiling tract, to (53 M.) Chexbres (2034'). 

The "Signal de Chexbres (2160'; *H6t. du Signal, with extensive grounds, 
pens. 7-9 fr.), 25 min. from the station, affords a superb view. At our feet 
lies the greater part of the Lake of Geneva ; to the left, Vevey ; above it, 
from left to right, are the saddle of the Col de Jaman, the tooth-like Dent de 
Jaman, the broad back of the Rochers de Naye , and the Tour d'Ai and 
Tour de Mayen ; farther back, the Grand-Mceveran and the Dent de Morcles. 
In the centre of the background is the pyramid of Mont Catogne ; on its left 
rise the snowy cones of Mont V^lan and the Grand Combin ; to the right, 
the Savoy Mts., with the Dent d'Oche. — Travellers bound for Vevey 
may descend direct from the Signal to the (25 min.) village of Chexbres. 

Fkom Chexbres to Vevey, 4 M., diligence thrice daily in 50 min. 
(ascent from Vevey to Chexbres l'/s hr.) ; fare 1 fr. The walk from Chex- 
bres to Vevey (I1/2 hr.) is pleasant, but in the reverse direction it is apt to 
be hot and tiring. Luggage may be forwarded by railway. — The road from 
the station leads through (1 M.) the large village of Chexbres (1940'; °H6t.- 
Peni. Bellevue, with fine view, R. 2-3, B. 1, dej. 2, D. 3, pens, from 5 fr. ; 
"B6t. Victoria, with garden and fine view, pens. 5-6 fr.; 'Liond'Or; H6t.- 
Pent. Chillon, pens. 4-5 fr. ; Engl. Ch. Serv. in the season), with its old castle 
(whence a path descends direct to Rivaz-St- Saphorin, p. 271), and then 
descends , in view of the beautiful lake and the Savoy Mts., to the Lau- 
sanne and Vevey road and (3 M.) Vevey (p. 263). 

Beyond the Cornallaz Tunnel (506 yds.) a Tiew of singular 
beauty, embracing the greater part of the Lake of Geneva and the 
surrounding mountains, is suddenly disclosed. In the direction of 
Vevey, which is not itself visible , are the Pleiades , the Dent de 
Jaman, thevalley of the Rhone, and the Savoy Mts. ; in the foreground 
lie numerous villages amidst vineyards. Beyond a tunnel (through 
which the setting sun shines in summer) and (55 M.) Grandvaux 
we observe the villages of Lutry, Pully, and Ouchy on the lake, 
and Lausanne on the hill above them. Beyond another tunnel and 
a viaduct we reach (57 Y2 M.) La Conversion-Belmont and cross 
the valley of the Paudlze (p. 263) by a viaduct of nine arches. After 
another short tunnel our train reaches the Lausanne and Vevey line. 

60 M. Lausanne, see p. 260. 

63. From Lausanne to Payerne and Lyss. 

63 M. Juka-Simplon Railway in 4'/s hrs. ; fares 7 fr. 96, 5 fr. 35 c. (no 
first class). 

To (12 M.) PaWzieux (Hot. de la Gare), see above. We follow 
the pleasant valley of the Broye. 15 M. Palezieuz- Village ; 16 M. 
Ch&tillens-Oron (}/% M. to the N.E. is Oron-la- Ville, see above). — 

Baedkkeb, Switzerland. 19th Edition. 16 



242 1 V. Route 63 MORAT. 

19'/2 M. Ecublens-Rue (Rail. Restaurant). The little town of Rue 
(2323'; Maison de Ville; Fleur-de-Lys) lies on a hill to the right, 
commanded by an old chateau. — 22V2 M. Bressonnaz. 

237 2 M. Moudon (1690'; pop. 2641 ; Hot. du Pont; ffit. de la 
Fleur-de-Lys ; Hot. de la Oare), with the chateaux of Carouge and 
Rochefort, an old town, the Roman Minodunum, and long the cap- 
ital of the Pays de Vaud. Handsome Gothic church. — Farther on 
we cross the Broye twice. 26 '/2 M. Lucens, with a picturesque old 
chateau. — 29 M. Henniez, the station for Henniez-les-Bains (1970'; 
Hot. -Pens, des Bains. R. V/ t -2, B. I1/4, D. 2i/ 2 , S. 2, pens. 5-6, 
omn. 2 fr.), beautifully situated 2^2 M. to the E.; to the left, the 
old chateau and church of Surpierre, on a lofty rock. — 31 M. Oranges- 
Marnand ; 33 M. Trey. 

36i/ 4 M. Payerne (1480'; pop. 5183 ; *Ours ; Hot. de la Oare), the 
Roman Paterniaeum (?) , was in the 10th cent, a frequent residence 
of the Kings of Burgundy, who then ruled over the modern Franche- 
Comte", Switzerland as far as the Reuss on theE., and part of Savoy. 

Bertha of Swabia, wife of Rudolph II. (912-937), erected a church and 
Benedictine abbey here. Her bones, with those of her husband and her 
son Conrad, were discovered in 1864, and were buried in the parish 
church , where the queen's saddle with a hole for her distaff is shown. 
To this day the expression, 'Ce n'est plus le temps oil Berthe filait', is 
a regretful allusion to the 'good old times'. 

From Payerne to Freiburg and Yverdon, see p. 240. 

The valley of the Broye becomes broad and marshy. 38 M. 
Corcelles; 39^2 M. Dompierre ; 41 M. Domdidier. 

43 M. Avenches (1520'; pop. 1934; *Couronne, moderate; 
Maison de Ville) , now a small town, was the ancient capital of the 
Helvetii, the Roman Aventicum. 

Remains of an Amphitheatre and other buildings, and of the old town- 
walls, testify to its former prosperity. The mediaeval Castle, at the en- 
trance to the town, occupies the site of the Roman capitol. To the N.W. 
rises a solitary Corinthian column 39' high, the remnant of a temple of 
Apollo, now called Le Cigognier, from the stork's nest which has occupied 
it for centuries. The Museum (custodian lives near the church ; small fee) 
contains mosaics, inscriptions, and other relics recently found here; in 
its garden is the above-mentioned amphitheatre. 

In his Childe Harold (iii. 65) Lord Byron alludes to the 'Cigognier': — 
' By a lone wall a lonelier column rears 
A grey and grief-worn aspect of old days.' 

At (4572 M.) Faoug (Soleil; Cerf) we approach the Lake of 
Morat (1420'), the Roman Lacus Aventicensis and the Vecht-See of 
the middle ages, 5^2 M. long. It is separated from the Lake of 
Neuchatel by the narrow Mont Vully towards the N. and the Char- 
montel to the S., but connected with it by the Broye. 

471/2 M. Morat, Ger. Murten (1520' ; pop. 2256; Couronne; 
*Croix, R. 172-2, B. 1, D. incl. wine 2i/ 2 , S. 2, pens. 4-5 fr. ; VaU- 
seau; Lion; Rail. Restaurant), a small and ancient town with well- 
preserved gates and walls, which in 1476, with a garrison of 1500 Bern- 
ese under Adrian von Bubenberg, resisted the artillery of Charles the 
Bold for ten days before the battle of Morat. Its arcaded streets are 



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VALLORBE. IV. Route 64. 243 

overshadowed by an old Castle. The School contains a collection of 
Burgundian weapons. Pleasant LakeBat hs at the S. end of the town. 

Near the lake, l'/a M - to the S. of Morat, rises a marble Obelisk, erected 
in 1822 in memory of the battle of 22nd June, 1476. This was the bloodiest 
of the disastrous contests (Grandson,- Morat, and Nancy), in which the puissant 
Duke of Burgundy lost his treasure , his courage, and his life ('Gut, Mut, 
und Blut'). The Burgundians lost 15,000 men and all their baggage. 

The Steamboat from Morat to Nedchatel (2-3 limes daily m 2-2V2hrs.) 
crosses the lake to Motier and Praz, at the E. base of the vine-clad Mont 
Vully (2267') ; at Sugiez it passes under an iron bridge and enters the 
Broye. To the W. stretches the Jura, from the Weissenstein to the Chasse- 
ron. Ule&rLaSauge we enter the Lake of JVeuchdtel (p. 228), steering first S.W. 
to Cudrefin, and afterwards N.W. to St. Blaise and Neuehdtel (p. 229). 

From Morat to Freiburg, see p. 240. 

Near (5072 M.) Galmitz, Fr. Charmey, we leave the lake. To 
the left is the Grosse Moos, partly reclaimed (branch-line to Ins, 
p. 228). 52V2 M. Kerzers, Fr. Chietres (Ours; Lion), junction of 
the Bern and Neuchatel line (p. 228) : 54 ( /2 M. Fraschels, Fr. Frasse ; 
57 M. Kallnach. 

59'/ 2 m. Aarberg (1470'; pop. 1249; Krone), an old town on 
an island in the Aare. By the church is the old castle of the Counts 
of Aarberg, who sold their dominions to Bern in 1351. 

The train crosses the Aare to (63 M.) Lyss, on the Bienne and 
Bern line (p. 13). 

64. From Lausanne to Vallorbe and Fontarlier. 

45 M. Railway in li/ 4 -3 hrs. (7 fr. 70, 5 fr. 35, 3 fr. 70 c). Express from 
Lausanne to Paris (327 M.) in 9'A hrs. (58 fr. 50, 39 fr. 65, 26 fr. 5 c). 

To (12 M.) Daillens, seep. 237. The line for Pontarlier here 
diverges to the left. 14 M. La Sarraz (1650'; Croix Blanche), with 
an old chateau. Two short tunnels. We then ascend to (17 1 /* M.) 
Arnex (1790'); l 3 / 4 M. to the N. lies the little town of Orbe (p. 237). 
The windings of the line afford a splendid view, first to the right, and 
then to the left, of the Alpine chain from the Mont. Blanc to the Jung- 
frau. It ascends to Bofflens and (21 M.) Croy-Romainmotier, 1 M. 
to the E. of the small and ancient town of Romainmotier (2155'; 
H6t.de l'Etoile), with an interesting Romanesque church (10th cent.). 
The train skirts wooded hills ; on the right, in the deep valley of the 
Orbe, lies the village of Les Clees, with its castle; high on the left 
bank are the villages of Lignerolle and Ballaigues (p. 244). — Two 
short tunnels; then (27 M.) Le Day, the junction for Le Pont 
(p. 244). Below (to the right) the Orbe forms the picturesque Saut 
du Day (2130'). Near Vallorbe we cross the Orbe. 

28i/ 2 M. Vallorbe (2480'; pop. 3272; *6r.-H6t. de Vallorbe, 
R.3-5, B.l, dej.3, D.4, pens. 6-12fr.; *H6tel de Geneve-Terminus, 
at the station, R. 2-3, B. 1, D. 2 ] /2, pens. 6-7 fr.; Maison dt Ville, 
Croix Blanche, both moderate), a watch-making place, at the base 
of the Mont d'Or (47 TO'), mostly rebuilt since the Are of 1883. 

From Vallorbe to Le Brassds, 15'/2 M., railway in i 3 /4 hr. To (I1/2 M.) 
Le Day, see above. Our line, diverging here to the right, gradually ascends 

16* 



244 IV.R.64.—- Map, p. 242. LE PONT. 

along the wooded slopes of the Dent de Vaulion (pretty view of the town 
of Vallorbe on the right) and beyond a tunnel (500 yds.) skirts the Lac 
Brenet. On the N. side of Lac Brenet its water disappears in apertures 
(entonnoirs) in the rocks , and after a subterranean course of 3 M. re- 
appears as the 'Source of the Orbe\ 750' lower. 

7 M. Le Pont ('Truite), a hamlet at the K. end of the Lac de /oturfsee 
below'', which is separated from Lac Brenet by an embankment with a bridge 
(railway, see below), lies at the S. foot of the "Dent de Vaulion (4880'), 
ascended hence in l>/2 hr. (guide desirable). The W. side of this moun- 
tain presents a precipice, 1600' high, while the E. side is a gentle, grassy 
slope. View from the top of the Lac de Joux, the Lac des Rousses, the 
Noirmont, and the Dole; to the S.E., part of the Lake of Geneva, and 
beyond it Mont Blanc and the Alps of the Valais; lastly the Bernese Ober- 
land. — A small steamer plies on the pretty lac de Joux (3295'; 5 M. long, 
'/z-1 M. broad) to Rocheray (50 min. ; 60 c). It crosses from Le Pont to 
L'Abbaye, a hamlet on the E. bank, whence the Mont Tendre (5512 1 ) may 
be ascended in 2 hrs. (fine view). Next stations: Le Lieu, on the W. bank; 
Orosjean and Bioux, on the E. bank; and Le Rocheray (Hot. Bellevue), at 
the S. end of the lake. Omnibus hence to ( 3 /« SI.) Le Sentier (see below). 

Beyond Le Pont the railway runs between the Lac de Joux and the 
Lac Brenet to (71/2 M.) Charbonieres, and then along the W. bank of tbe 
Lac de Joux \i& Sichey, Le Lieu, Rocheray (see abcve), and Solliat-GoVsu 
to Le Sentier ("Pens. Guignard; Union) and (15'/2 M.) Le Brasstu (3112'; 
Hot. de la Lande; Hot. de France), a large village on the Orbe. Hence 
over the Col du Marchairuz to (I6V2 M.) Rolle c;r (9 M.) Bi&e, see p. 259. 

From Vallorbe station a diligence runs twice daily in 1 hr. (one-horse 
carr. 5, Iwo-hor'e 9 fr.) to (3'/4 M.) Ballaigues (3 '50'; 'Orand-HStel Aubipint, 
R. 2'/2-6, dej. 21'a. D. 3, pens. 7V2-I2 fr. ; m M6t.-Pem>. La Sapiniere, pens. 
51' 2 fr. ; "Pens. Maillefer, '/ t M. to the E., 5-6 fr. ; *JJSl.-Pens. Beausite, 5-7 fr. ; 
Engl. Ch. Serv. in summer), a summer-resort charmingly situated above 
the valley of the Orbe. Walks may be taken through the adjacent Boil 
de Bon (old Eoman road) to the "Saul du Day (p. 243) and other points. 
About 2 M. above Kallaigues is the *H6t-Pens. la Bessonaz (3770'; R. from 
3, B. iVj, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 6-7 fr. ; fine view), whence "Mont Suc/iet (2250) 
is easily ascended in l'/s hr. (see p. 237). 

The train backs out from the station, describes a wide curve, 
and ascends the pretty, wooded valley of the Jougnenaz, where it 
soon enters French territory. Cuttings and two tunnels carry us to 
(jA&ifaM.^Hopitaux-Jougne. We then cross the ridge of the Jura and 
descend through wooded and rocky valleys to (41 '/2 M.) Frambowg. 
Near the Fort de Joux (p. 235") we join the Neuchatel line. 

45 M. Pontarlier, see p. 235. 



65. Geneva and. its Environs. 

Arrival. Principal Station (Oare de Cornavin; PI. D, 2), for the Swisi 
Jura-Simplon and the French Paris. Lyons. & Mediterranean lines, on the 
right bank, at the upper end of the Rue du Mont-Blanc. Omnibvi from the 
station to any hotel (and from the hotels to the station) 50 c, luggage 30 c. 
— Station of Ealx-Vives (Oare des Vollandes), for Annemasse, Cnamonix, 
Annecy, and Bouveret, on the left bank (PI. F, 8; tramway to Place du 
Mol rd and the Cornavin Station). French railway-time is 55 minutes 
behind Central European time. — Steamboat Pieks on the S. (left) bank 
by the Jardin Anglais, and on the N. (right) bank by the Quai dee PaquiS 
and (for the express boats only) the Quai du Mont-Blanc. — Pobteb up 
to 50 kilogrammes (110 lbs.) 75 c, 100 kil. (2 r :0 lbs.) 1 fr., over 100 kil. 
1 fr. 20 c. per 100 kil. 



GENEVA. IV. Route 65. 245 

Hotels. On the Bight Bank, with view of the lake and the Alps: 
•Grand Hotel National (PI. f. ; F, 2), on the Quai du Leman, R. 5-10 
(in winter 3 l /2 8), B. 11/2, dej. 31/2, D. 6, pens, from 12 fr. ; 'Hot. des 
Bekgues (PI. a; D, 4), Quai des Bergues, R. 4-9, dej. 372, D. 5, pens. 
10-18 fr. ; "Hot. Beau-Rivage (PI. d; E, 4), on the Quai des Paquis, 
R. from 41/2, dej. 5, D. 6, pens, in winter from IOV2 fr. ; 'Hot. de Russie 
(PI. b; D, 4), Quai du Mont-Blanc, R. 4-6, B. I1/2, dej. 3, D. 5, pens, in 
winter from 8 fr. ; *H6t. de la Paix (PI. c; D, 4), Quai da Mont-Blanc, 
R. 4-6, A. O/2, dej. 31/2, D. 5, pens, in winter from 8, in summer from 10, 
omn. with luggage I1/2 fr. ; "Hot. d'Angleterre (PI. e; E, 4), Quai du Mont- 
Blanc, R. 4-ti, B. I1/2, dej. 4, D. 5, pens. 9-14 fr. — 'Hot. Richemond 
(PI. r; E, 3, 4), Rue Adhe"mar-Fabri, with view of the Pont du Mont-Blanc, 
frequented by the English, R. 3Va-5, B. I1/2, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 7-12 fr. 
— Also on the right bank, near the station, wituout view, and rather of 
the second class: Hot. Scisse (PI. p; D, 3), Rue du Mont-Blanc, R. 4-6, 
B. I1/2, dej. 3, D. 4 fr. ; Hot. de Geneve (PI. q; D, 3j, Rue du Mont-Blanc, 
R. 21/2-3, B. I1/4, D. 3-372 fr. ; Hot.-Pens. Bristol (PI. s; D, 4), Rue du 
Mont-B!anc 10, R. 2-4, B. li/ 4 . dej. 21/2, D. 3, pens. 6 9 fr. ; Hot. Central, 
Rue des Alpes 27, near the rail, station, R. 2-3, B. I1/1, dej. incl. wine 21/2, 
D. incl. wine 3 fr. ; Hot. Terminds-Baur (PI. u; D, 3), R. 21/2-5, dej. 3, 
D.J31/2, pens. 7-10 fr. ; H6t.de laGare; Hot. de la Monnaie, pens. 61/2-lOfr.; 
Hot. de Fasiille, pens. 4-41/2 fr. (these four near the station) — On the Left 
Bank: "Hot. Metropole (PI. g; D, 5), by the Jardin Anglais, R. 3i/ 2 -7, 
B. I1/2, dej. 4, D. 5, pens. 9-14 fr. (rooms at the back noisy); "Hot. de 
l'Ecu (PI. h; C, 4), R. from 31/2, B. li/ 2 , dej. 4, D. 41/2, pens, from 8 fr., 
both with view of the lake; "Hot. Victoria (PI. m; E, 6), Rue Pierre 
Fatio 1, R. 3'/2-4i/2, B. H/2, dej. 3, D. 31/2, pens. 8-10 fr.; Hot.-Pens. Vdl- 
tier, Rue Pierre Fatio 12, R. from 3 B. 1V 4 , dej. 2i/ 2 , D 3, pens. 6-9 fr. ; 
H6tel Moderne, Place Molard, R. 3-6, B. H/4, D. 3-4, S. 3, pens, from 9 fr. ; 
'Hot. de l'Ecrope, Rue Ceard & Rue Ooix-d'Or, near Place Molard, R. 
21/2-4, B. I1/4, dej. 3, D. 3V* fr. ; "Hot. do Lac (PI. k; D, 5), R. 3-6, D. 
incl. wine 4, S. incl. wine 3V2, pens, in winter 8 12 fr.; "Hot. de la Poste 
(PI. i; B, 4), frequented by Germans, R. 2'/:i-4, D. incl. wine 3'/2, S. incl. 
wine 3 fr.; "H6t. de Paris (PI. 1; D, 5), with view of the lake, R. 2V2-4, 
D. incl. wine 3, pens. 9-10 fr. ; Hotel dd Mont-Blanc, R. 2-4, B. 11/4, dej. 
2i/i, D. 3 fr. ; Hot. des Balances (PI. n; C, 4), R. 2-4, B. 1, D. incl. wine 
21/2-3 fr. ; Hot. du Nord, R. 1 1/2-21/2, D. 272 fr., all in the Rue du Rhone; 
Hot. des Alpes, Rue de Rive 20-22; Hot.-Pens. Fleischmann, Rond-Point 
de Plainpalais, R. 2i/ 2 -5, B. H, 4 , D. 3, pens. 5-8 fr. 

Pensions (most of them good). On the Right Bank (PI. B-F, 1-4): 
Richardet (Mme. Amidroz), Rue du Mont-Blanc 6-8 (6-7 fr.) ; Mile. Mottu- 
Chaponniere, Rue Pradier 1, and Rue du Mont-Blanc, opposite the station; 
Mme. A. de Hitler, Quai du Mont-Blanc 7 (from 6 fr.); Mme. Cosson, Rue 
des Alpes 5 (6 fr.); Miles. Coupier, Rue des Alpes 3 and 4 (6-7 fr.); Pens, 
du Llman, Rue des Alpes 15 ; Roger, Rue Gevray 2, Place des Alpes (5-8 fr.) ; 
Mme. Barbier, Rue Bonivard 4 (150 fr. per month) ; Morhardt, Avenue du 
Mail 18 (5-6 fr.); Mme. Reh, Avenue du Mail 9; Pens. Huguenin, Rue 
LeVrier 15; Hdt.-Pens. Bellevue, Rue de Lyon 29-33, near the Cornavin 
station, with garden (6-7 fr.). — On the Left Bank, at Eaux-Vives, the 
8.E. quarter of the town (PI. D-F, 5-8): Mme. Ryler, Place de la Metro- 
pole 2, Jardin Anglais (from 6 fr.); Mme. Sues, Rue d'ltalie 1; Wirth, 
Quai Pierre Fatio 12; Mmes. Livet & Orobel. Quai des Eaux-Vives 2 (5-7 fr.) ; 
Mme. Fischer, Quai des Eaux-Vives 20 (6-8 fr.); Mme. Maline , Quai des 
Eaux-Vives 32 (6 fr.). — On the Left Bank, at Plainpalais, the S.W. quarter 
of the town (PI. A-C, 4-8): Faure-Ma'hey , Rue des Minoteries 7 (from 
4 fr. ; 100-110 per month) ; Beau-Site, Place du Cirque 3 (from 5 fr.) ; Mme. 
Marehant, Boul. de Plainpalais 26 (5-6 fr.) ; Mme. Rigler-Moriaud, Rue St. 
L^ger 4; Mlles!Labarthe, Rond-Point de Plainpalais 5 (5 6 fr.) ; Mme. Courtelin, 
Boul. du Pont-d'Ai-ve 19 (5 fr. ; 125 fr. per month); Mme. Duraffo